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Homemade LED lamp. Powerful homemade ice lamp. Features and stages of installation work

In this article we will look at examples of making homemade LED lamps for various needs.

1. The simplest lamp for household needs.

First, you need to decide which LEDs are best to use. If you choose between powerful and low-power ones, the former are better in terms of labor intensity. To replace one powerful 1 W LED, you will need 15-20 low-power 5 mm or SMD LEDs. Accordingly, soldering with low-power ones is much greater. Let's focus on the powerful ones. They are usually divided into two types - lead-out and surface-mount. To make life easier, it is better to use output ones. It is better to choose LED power no more than 1 W.

We will also need a current driver so that the LEDs receive the necessary voltage and last a long time.
In addition, for long-term operation of an LED (especially a powerful one), a radiator is required. Aluminum is best suited for its manufacture. Each one-watt LED requires a piece of aluminum 50x50 mm, about 1 mm thick. The piece may be smaller if it is bent. If you take a piece of 25x25 mm and a thickness of 5 mm, you will not get the desired effect. To dissipate heat, you need area, not thickness.

Let's consider a model of the simplest lamp. We will need: three 1 W LEDs, a 3x1 W driver, double-sided heat-conducting tape, a radiator (for example, a piece of U-shaped profile 1 mm thick and 6-8 cm long).

Thermal tape can conduct heat. Therefore, ordinary double-sided tape will not work. Cut a strip of tape 6-7 mm wide.

We degrease the radiator and the bottoms of the LEDs. It is not advisable to use acetone for this - the plastic lens of the LED may become cloudy.

Place tape on the radiator. Then we mark the radiator to install the LEDs evenly.

We install the LEDs on the tape. At the same time, we observe polarity - all LEDs must be rotated equally so that the “plus” of one LED faces the “minus” of the neighboring one. Lightly press them for better contact. After this, we apply tin to the leads of the LEDs to facilitate further soldering. If you are concerned that the tape may burn out, simply lift the leads of the LEDs so that they do not touch the tape. At the same time, you need to hold the LED housing with your finger so that it does not come off the tape. However, you can bend the conclusions in advance.

We connect the LEDs to each other. For this, a core from any stranded wire is quite sufficient.

Solder the driver.

The simplest model of the lamp is ready. Now you can insert it into any suitable housing. Of course, you can make a more powerful lamp, you just need more diodes and a more powerful driver, but the principle will remain the same. This technique is suitable for both the manufacture of a single lamp and small-scale production.

2. Chandelier based on LEDs.

We will need:
1. Base from a burnt energy saving lamp.
2. Two grips (to connect to the LED);
3. Powerful ten-watt LED, color of your choice;
4. Two small screws;
5. One ten watt LED driver;
6. Thermal paste;
7. Radiator;
8. Heat shrink tube (or insulating tape);
9. wires with a cross section of 2 mm.


First you need to disassemble the old or burnt out energy-saving lamp. It is important to be careful not to damage the glass flask. Otherwise, mercury gas, which is very harmful to health, will come out of it.

We only need the part of the case with the base. Let's cut off the leads from the board going to the base and solder our own leads coming from the LED driver, insulating them with heat-shrinkable tubes.

Using a soldering iron, we will make a couple of holes for the wire, which will hold the entire structure.

Next, we use the terminals, crimp them, and connect them to the LED, observing the polarity. Let's check. It is not recommended to look at the LED when it is on. The light intensity is very strong and may harm your eyes. If everything works, we assemble the lamp into a single whole.

The LED is very bright and casts harsh shadows. You can make the light smoother and softer by using a homemade diffuser. Many can be used as a diffuser various materials. The simplest one is to cut it out of a two-liter bottle. plastic bottle sand the bottom on all sides to make it completely opaque to direct light. We make four holes and attach it to the radiator with wire.

3. Homemade led lamp.

As a light source we use Cree MX6 Q5 LEDs with a power of 3 W and a light output of 278 lm. The LED will be placed on a heatsink measuring 5x5 cm, removed from the old processor motherboard.


For simplicity we will use pulse source together with an electronic adapter that will provide the necessary voltage and current to power the LEDs. For this purpose, in our case, a non-working charger was selected mobile phone having, according to the manufacturer, an output voltage of 5 V and a current of 420 mA.

To protect from external influences, the entire electronic part will be placed in a socket from an old lamp.

According to the manufacturer's instructions, Cree MX6 Q5 LEDs can operate at a maximum current of 1 A at 4.1 V. Logically, for normal operation we need a 1 Ohm resistor to lower the voltage by about one volt of the five that the charger provides in order to get the required 4.1 V and this is only if the charger produces current maximum strength at 1 A. However, as it later turned out, a charger with a design current limitation of 0.6 A works without problems. Testing chargers for other mobile phones in the same way, it was found that they all have a current limit of 20-50% higher than that specified by the manufacturer. The meaning of this is that any manufacturer will strive to develop a power supply so that it does not overheat even if the powered device is damaged or short circuited, and the easiest way in this case is to limit the current.

So we have a source DC limited to 0.6 A, powered by 230 V AC, factory made and small in size. However, during operation it only heats up slightly.

Let's move on to assembly. First, you need to open the power supply in order to remove the parts that will be inserted into the body of the new lamp. Since most power supplies are connected by soldering, we open the unit with a hacksaw.

In order to secure the board in the lamp body, in our case we used sanitary silicone. Silicone was chosen for its resistance to high temperatures.

Before closing the lamp, we attach the radiator to the cover (using bolts), to which the LED was attached.

The lamp is ready. The power consumption is just under 2.5 W, the luminous flux is 190 lm, which is ideal for an economical, long-lasting and durable table lamp.

4. Lamp in the corridor.

To illuminate the hallway with LED lights, we used two Cree MX6 Q5 LEDs, each of which has a power of 3 W and a light output of 278 lm and is powered by an old mobile power supply Samsung phone. And although the manufacturer’s specification indicates a current strength of 0.7 A, after measurements it was found that it is limited to 0.75 A.

The manufacturing scheme for the lamp base is similar to the previous version. The entire external structure is assembled using textile Velcro, glue and plastic washers from motherboards.

The total consumption of this design is about 6 W with a luminous flux of 460 lm.

5. Lamp in the bathroom.

LED used for bathroom Cree XM-L T6 powered by two LG phone chargers.


Each of chargers may produce 0.9 A current according to the manufacturer, but I found that the actual current is 1 A. Both power supplies are connected in parallel to produce 2 A current.

With such indicators, the LED lamp will produce a luminous flux of 700 lm with a power consumption of 6 W.

6. Kitchen lamp.
If for the hallway and bathroom there was no need to provide a certain minimum of illumination, then this is not the case in the kitchen. Therefore, it was decided to use not one, but two series-connected Cree XM-L T6 LEDs for the kitchen, each of which has a maximum power consumption of 9 W and a maximum luminous flux of 910 lumens.

For effective cooling, in our case, we used a heatsink removed from Slot 1 of the Pentium 3 processor, to which both LEDs were attached using ArcticAlumina hot-melt adhesive. Although Cree XM-L T6 LEDs can consume a current of 3 A, the manufacturer recommends using a current of 2 A for reliable operation, at which they create a luminous flux of about 700 lm. A generating 12V at a current of 1.5A was used as a power source. After testing it with resistors, it was found that the current was limited to 1.8 A, which is very close to the desired value of 2 A.

To protect the heatsink and two LEDs, we used two plastic washers from the motherboard and two neodymium magnets taken from a damaged DVD drive, securing them with superglue and textile Velcro.

I expected that such an LED lamp would produce 1200 lm, which is comparable to the luminous flux of the replacement fluorescent lamp 23W, however it was found that the light emitted is actually even more intense, with a power consumption of around 12W - almost half that of the old bulb.

7. Office lamp
We will need:

1. LED strips 4 pcs (on powerful American CREE diodes)
2. Suitable driver (power supply) 1 pc.
3. Metal body of the future lamp.
4. Wiring, soldering iron, hand tools and fastening lamp.

You can use the body of an old lamp to make it

Or use a special aluminum profile with glass. In this case, the driver is installed inside the profile.

We install 4 diode strips.

We attach it to the ceiling (with cables) + install frosted glass.

Option of LED lamp in housing (from fluorescent 2x36W)

With glass

Or you can put everything in a 600x600 mm office lamp.

Well, as a bonus, let’s look at a few examples of decorative lamps based on LEDs.

For a decorative lamp we will need:
- 4 wooden planks of the same size;
- drill with 15 mm drill bit;
- wood glue;
- stain for wood;
- brush with pencil;
- sandpaper;
- LED candles.
First of all, you need to make several holes in each board with a drill, having previously made markings with a pencil - this way we will get a kind of pattern of circles.

Apply stain to wood.


Using glue, we connect 4 planks into a lamp.

We go over the lamp with sandpaper to give it a vintage look.

We place LED candles inside the lamp.

The night light is ready.

9. Lamp in oriental style.
We use cans of PVA glue as shades for lamps.


We will need:
- 2-3 cans of PVA glue
- cartridges, wire
- scissors, sharp knife
- hot glue gun
- bamboo napkins or straw ceiling tiles


First you need to cut the napkins into pieces of the required size.

On the base of the can, use a marker to circle a socket with a 1-watt LED and cut out a circle with a knife.

Then using hot glue gun glue the napkins to the jars.

Glue the tape to the empty spaces.

At this stage you can already see how it will glow.

All that remains is to decorate the braid with wooden beads at the joints.

For safety reasons, you need to drill holes for ventilation. You can have more, but they still won’t be visible.

That's all, the lamp is ready.

10. Unusual decorative lamp.

Making a lamp with your own hands began with drawing preliminary sketches on paper. There was a desire for the lamp not only to be curved in a plane, but also in space, and have a bizarre 3D wave shape.

Once the sketch on paper is ready, we begin making the lamp. Each pipe in the drawing was measured, and the pipes were cut according to these dimensions. To obtain the required angles, templates were cut out of paper and attached with tape to the pipe.


All pipes were laid out on the table and adjustments were made to the waveform

The cuts were made on a stationary circular saw. This produces smooth, burr-free cuts with a width of 2 mm.

Now you need to connect all the pipes into one. Main task make smooth bends; for this it won’t hurt to use a template (fibreboard sheet) on the table.

Since the pipes are cardboard, they can be connected using PVA glue, but I would recommend using glues that harden stronger and faster (moment, superglue).

WITH reverse side Wooden strips were screwed onto self-tapping screws so that the homemade lamp could be hung on the wall. And holes were drilled in each pipe to output wires from the LED strips.

The pipes were painted with regular spray paint. The color red was used, since the wall on which the lamp was to be located was white, I wanted to get some contrast.

The paint dries very quickly, so you can begin installing the LEDs. The main thing to remember is what to cut LED strip only possible in specially marked areas. The tape must be marked in advance so that it is enough for all 12 pipes.

We solder red wires to the “+” contact, and black wires to the “-” contact, so as not to confuse the polarity later.

We place the LED strips inside the pipes and fix them with the adhesive side to the pipe wall, and take the wires out through pre-made holes. All that remains is to connect all the wires in parallel (connect red to red, and black to black) and connect to the power supply.

Now it's time to hang your homemade lamp on the wall.
The lamp is ready.


If you are interested in how to make an LED lamp with your own hands at home, then we will provide several step by step instructions with photo and video examples that will allow you to assemble an LED light bulb in no more than an hour. All the ideas provided below will be listed from the simplest to the more complex, which will allow you to choose the appropriate option depending on your skills in handling a soldering iron and electrical circuits.

Idea No. 1 – Upgrading a halogen light bulb

The easiest way is to make an LED lamp yourself from a burnt-out halogen light bulb with -GU4. In this case, you will need the following materials and tools:

  • LEDs. Choose their number yourself depending on how bright the LED lighting should be. We immediately draw your attention to the fact that you should not choose more than 22 diodes (this will complicate the assembly process and also make the light bulb too bright).
  • Super glue (regular glue will do, but it will take longer to harden, which will not allow you to make an LED lamp quickly).
  • Small piece copper wire.
  • Resistors. Their number and power will be calculated by an online calculator.
  • A small piece of sheet aluminum (an alternative is a regular beer or carbonated drink can).
  • Internet access. You will need to open a special online calculator to calculate the LED lamp circuit.
  • Hammer, soldering iron and hole punch.

Having prepared all the materials, you can proceed directly to assembling the diode light bulb. We will provide instructions for creating a homemade one step by step, with photo examples of each stage, so that you can clearly see the installation process.

So, to make a 12 volt LED lamp, you need to follow these steps:

  1. Remove the top glass from the old halogen light bulb, as well as the white putty near the pin base (as shown in the photo below). The best way to do this is to use a screwdriver.
  2. Turn the lamp upside down and carefully use a hammer to knock the pins out of their seats. The old halogen bulb should fall out.
  3. According to the number of LEDs you have chosen, come up with a diagram of their location, based on which make a paper stencil. You can use an existing blank and print one of the ready-made diagrams shown in the picture:
  4. Glue the stencil to a sheet of aluminum using super glue, cut the sheet to the shape of the stencil, then use a hole punch to make seats for the LEDs.
  5. Generate an LED lamp assembly drawing on the Internet for your conditions. In our case, to create an LED light bulb at home from 22 diodes, you need to assemble the following circuit:
  6. Place the aluminum disk on a convenient stand and insert the LEDs into the seats, as shown in the photo. To simplify the soldering process, bend the cathode leg of one diode to the anode leg of the other.
  7. Carefully glue all the LEDs, making them a single structure. Important point– glue should not get on the legs of the diodes, because When soldering, extremely unpleasant smoke will be released.
  8. When the glue has hardened, start soldering the legs. By the way, we recommend that you do this, which also won’t take much time. According to the diagram, solder the diodes of the LED lamp, leaving only one positive leg and one negative leg for connecting power. It is recommended to cut the “-” leg in half so as not to subsequently confuse the polarity of the contacts of a homemade LED light bulb.

  9. According to the diagram, solder resistors to the negative contacts. As a result, according to our example, there should be 6 positive terminals and 6 negative terminals (with resistors).
  10. Solder the resistors according to the generated circuit.
  11. Solder an identical piece of copper wire to the resulting two contacts, which will result in making a pin base for an LED lamp at home. By analogy with the previous advice, temporarily make one leg shorter (negative) so that you don’t confuse anything later and make the connection correctly.

  12. To prevent this from happening in the future, carefully glue the space between the removed legs.
  13. Complete the final assembly of the LED light bulb: place the disk on the reflector and carefully glue it.
  14. Use a marker to sign where “+” and where “-” on the body of the assembled LED lamp; also indicate that the homemade light source is designed to be connected to a 12 Volt power supply, not 220.

  15. Check the assembled homemade product. To do this, connect the LED light bulb to car battery or power supply 220/12 Volt.

Like this in a simple way You can make an LED lamp with your own hands using improvised materials. As you can see, there is nothing complicated and you don’t need to spend much time on assembly! We recommend that you check out a few best ideas on how to create a light bulb at home, which we provided in the video gallery:

Idea No. 2 – “Housekeeper” in action!

Second, no less interesting idea– assemble a light bulb from an energy-saving lamp. There is also no particularly serious work involved, and even a not very experienced electrician can handle the assembly.
To begin, you must prepare the following materials and tools to assemble an LED lamp with your own hands:


Having prepared all the materials, you can proceed to assembly. This instruction is more creative, so if you decide to make a diode light bulb from a burnt housekeeper, carefully look at the photo examples.

Stages of work:


Using these instructions, you can easily make an LED lamp from a fluorescent or halogen light bulb!

Idea No. 3 – LED strip as a basis

If you are not so good with a soldering iron and at the same time have no idea how to assemble a circuit on fiberglass, it is better to make an LED lamp with your own hands from LED strip. In this case, instead of a driver, you can use a power supply that converts 220 Volts in the network into 12. The only significant drawback this method– the power supply is large in size, so this option is recommended if you decide to use LED spotlights in the room. You can try to assemble all the light bulbs for them with your own hands and connect them to a single block food that will hide without problems in the ceiling.

So all you need to do is:


That's all the instructions for assembling an LED lamp from strip. As you can see, everything is much simpler than even making a light bulb according to the generated diagram. That's it for our simple instructions run out, and now you know how to make an LED lamp with your own hands from energy saving light bulbs, diode strip and halogen light source! We hope that the ideas provided were useful and understandable for you!

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A 13.5 W LED bulb should have been sufficient to sufficiently illuminate a room of 8 m2. But in reality it turned out that there was not enough light.

The analysis showed that the reason for insufficient lighting with sufficient lamp power lay in LED designs lamps. In its lower part, parallel to the horizon and directed downwards, there were only 36 LEDs, and from the remaining 162 the light flux went in sides and in addition decreased, passing through the frosted glass of the lampshade. Thus, the actual illumination of the floor was equivalent to illumination by an LED directional light bulb with a power of no more than three watts.

Due to the wrong choice of light bulb type, insufficient illumination of the kitchen area, especially in winter time, created discomfort, and the realization came that it was time to replace the light bulb in the chandelier with an LED lamp of a different design.

Looking for an inexpensive LED light bulb around 16-18W with a wide beam angle warm light was not successful. Due to the installed optics, lamps with powerful one-watt LEDs had a small angle or the base did not fit. And suitable lamps were very expensive. Lamps with low-power LEDs such as LED-Y-SMD352 or LED-Y-SMD5050 were not satisfactory in terms of power.


Since the existing lamp had a large shade, the idea arose to make a powerful LED lamp with your own hands from several low-power ones. As a result, four inexpensive MR16 lamps with a power of 4.5 W were purchased, four sockets with a GU5.3 base were purchased for them, and one powerful lamp was made from them, the glow of which you see in the photo.

The cost was less than $10, and the conversion took several hours. The result was excellent. True, the lamp began to look unusual, as if the past and high-tech were combined. A high-power LED lamp made from several low-power ones has an additional advantage - if one of them burns out, the room will continue to be sufficiently illuminated by the remaining light bulbs; you can easily change the shade of light by installing, for example, two warm light bulbs and two cold light bulbs.

Making a powerful LED lamp

Any work on making homemade products begins with sketch work - measuring the dimensions of parts and, taking into account their overall and connecting dimensions, drawing up a general sketch of the future product.


To make a composite one high-power LED lamp from several low-power ones, you will need a base for an E27 socket with a base from an energy-saving lamp, four MR16 lamps and four GU5.3 sockets for them. You can see their overall and connecting dimensions in the photographs of the sketches.


Next, based on the obtained dimensions of the parts, you need to draw a sketch of the base of the future lamp. A fiberglass plate with a thickness of 1.5 mm and a diameter of 90 mm was chosen as the base. The base can also be made of any metal, for example, aluminum or steel 1 mm thick.

The next step is marking the future base of the lamp. Using a caliper or school compass, a forming line of the base is drawn. Next, in accordance with the sketch, drilling points for holes for sockets for light bulbs and wires are drawn. The base can be given a round shape using an electric or manual jigsaw. The base can be made rectangular shape, cutting it out using metal scissors. After sawing or cutting, sharp edges should be removed using fine sandpaper.


To obtain holes in precisely marked places, it is better to first drill them with a thin drill, for example with a diameter of 1 mm, and then drill them to the desired diameter with a thicker drill.

It was decided to secure the GU5.3 sockets to the base using screws with metric M3 threads. Therefore, holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm were first drilled, and then the threads were cut using a tap.

The holes through which the electrical wires will pass were removed with a larger diameter drill and the sharp edges were removed and chamfered.


The base for the homemade lamp is ready and you can start installing parts on it. To give the base an aesthetic appearance, you can paint it or cover it with film.


The easiest way is to cover the base with self-adhesive aluminum foil. I didn’t have a strip wide enough, and that’s why I ended up with a seam. If you don’t have foil covered with a sticky layer, you can use glue, for example, “Moment,” to glue ordinary aluminum foil, which is used for household needs, or a chocolate bar wrapper.


The socket from the base of the E27 energy-saving lamp is attached to the base using two corners with metric screws, bent at right angles from strips that clamp the power cable in Soviet-style C1-b electrical plugs. Corners can be made by cutting strips of steel sheet 1-2 mm thick, and use self-tapping screws as fasteners.


To ensure that the base of the energy-saving lamp does not spoil the insulation of the wires coming from the GU5.3 sockets, samples were made on four sides using a round file.


The first to be installed and secured to the base of the future composite lamp are the GU5.3 electric sockets. The wires coming out of the sockets were quite long. I did not shorten them, since there was enough space for laying the wires in the base from the energy-saving lamp.

Next, one wire coming from each cartridge is twisted together. The remaining four wires from the cartridges are also twisted together. The resulting twists are soldered using a soldering iron with tin-lead solder. If soldering is not possible, the connection can be made using a terminal block.

It remains to lay out the wires in a spiral and connect their ends with the ends of the wires connected to the base of the energy-saving lamp. Color coding of wires in in this case don't matter.

The twisted wires coming from the sockets and the base are placed coaxially overlapping each other and secured with a drop of solder. A piece of vinyl chloride tube is put on the place of soldering for insulation.

All that remains is to thread the wires into the base of the energy-saving lamp and secure it to the base of the lamp with two screws. The new composite lamp is ready and can be screwed into the lamp socket and installed in GU5.3 LED bulb sockets.


Tests have shown that the LED light bulbs in the sockets are held with a sufficient layer. But the possibility of them falling out still existed. Therefore, to securely fasten them, a threaded stand was additionally installed in the center of the base.


After installing the LED bulbs, a large washer was secured to the stand using an M3 screw, which pressed the bulbs by the edges to the sockets and prevented them from spontaneously slipping out over time. Instead of a washer, you can attach, for example, frosted glass to a stand to obtain softer light or a decorative decoration.


The photo shows a self-made high-power LED light bulb made from four low-power ones. The photo of the lamp was taken from the base side. The lamp somehow reminds me of a modern spacecraft.

And this photo shows the view of a homemade lamp made from four low-power MR16s from their installation side.


Everyone who knew me saw a lamp with a modernized lamp was surprised at the wonder and noted the excellent illumination that the light bulbs provided in the kitchen. Although, when coming up with this design, I had a good idea of ​​what would ultimately turn out, but the result exceeded all my expectations. It turned out much more interesting.

The proposed technology for manufacturing an LED lamp can be used to manufacture an adapter in order to be able to install a light bulb in a lamp with a type of base different from the type of lamp socket.

If you dig hard, you can find very cheap LEDs for your crafts.)
In this case, this is the common AXD-1WXSJ30W, with a power of 1W, a current of ~300mA and a brightness of ~100 Lumens.

In general, the purchase of these LEDs is associated with the desire to improve their brother - a Chinese lamp with 2 LDS of 36 watts. This is what he looked like before his first reincarnation:

Yes, yes, yellowed from the sun and with flies...

From yellowing and unsightly appearance Such lamps can be removed by painting the housing with aluminum paint from a can. This will give them an aluminum color without the gloss. Looks chic and “rich”.))

But no... this is still a two-LED lamp that has set the teeth on edge?!
OK. Let's add fifty LEDs! (we use another fifty diodes for the second lamp)

Testing “on the knee”:


Works great!

Let's move on to preparing the lamp. We throw out the old guts - electronic ballast and lamp sockets. It turns out that the main (middle) part of the lamp body is indeed aluminum, which is what is needed for cooling!
First fitting:

As planned, we need some parts made from aluminum profiles. Let's follow them to castorama:


Wow... damn expensive. There are only two sizes - one meter and two meters. The lamp is about twenty meters long and it is more profitable for us to purchase meter-long profiles. But which ones? The W-shaped ones are damn good and look like a radiator. But the price is under 80 rubles... In addition, you will need three pieces for each lamp... And then we come across a wonderful I-beam 3cm x 2cm for a ridiculous price - 39 rubles. What the price is, why that is... I don’t know.


One lamp requires a pair.

Another fitting

We fasten them together with rivets as the cheapest means. Drill holes for the boards.

We install the drivers.

We also fasten the boards with soldered LEDs with rivets, lubricating their aluminum base this time with thermal conductive paste KPT-8. It is much cheaper than glue, and you need a lot of it for these purposes.

Solder and lay the wires.

The product is ready!







So, we got rid of the old LDS and got a modern, stylish and unique LED lamp.
The heating temperature of the aluminum profile is around 60 degrees, which is quite acceptable.
The power consumption turned out to be approximately 45 watts versus 60 for an unconverted LDS. Our LED lamp shines clearly brighter (the LEDs, by the way, were bought in white colors) than the LDS, which remains a mystery to me, because characteristics of LDS lamps - 2500 lumens each. That is 5000 lumens for the entire lamp. About one-watt LEDs they write where 100-120 lumens, where 90-110... 50 of them were used per lamp, that is, it seems equivalent, but in fact it is 20 percent brighter.

Expenses.
1. LEDs 1W - 50 pcs ($4.2: 2) $2.1
2. boards for diodes - 10 pcs ($8: 2) $4
3. driver - 2 pcs ($2.36 * 2) $4.72
4. al. profile - 2 pieces (39 RUR * 2) 80 RUR or approximately $1.5
Total: $12.32 for 50 Watts.
That is, for 1 dollar you got 4 W of LED light. Record?

Hidden text

Look here:
- 9 W LED assembly (COB) on a ceramic substrate with a built-in driver! Just supply 220V! Lot of 10 pieces for $28 - 90W for $28 is 3.2W for $1.

But this is more interesting - 10 pieces of 5730 diodes on a board with a driver. A lot of 10 boards costs $12.78 and that's 50 W and... drum roll... 3.91 W per dollar!
Here (finished board) it turns out to be 3.84 W per dollar.

Well, the result of 4 W (400 lumens) per dollar is not so easy to beat. The option with discrete diodes is repairable and cheap.

PS: The sellers used them and did an excellent job - they sent them quickly and without delay. The LEDs were defective up to 20%, but at the first mention the seller offered to send (and subsequently sent) a double amount in return for the defect with the next order from him. So he closed the problem quickly. No complaints. I can recommend everyone.

Good afternoon everyone, in this article I will continue the topic of LED lamps, and most importantly powerful ones, which means from 10 to 50 W. After a long search for my LEDs, I found 34 pieces of 1 W each. The question immediately arose: how to feed all this? A solution was found to use a TASHIBRA 50-60W electronic transformer. Our lamp consumes a fair amount and it should start without modification. I added a diode bridge (the diode bridge must be high-frequency or mid-frequency) and a capacitor. Yes, that's a simple trick. But I must warn you: such a power supply does not have any stabilization or protection. To extend the life of LEDs, you do not need to power them with 12 volts, as expected, but 10-11 V, which is quite enough and the brightness does not drop, there is a small reserve for increasing the voltage in the network. Also, we cannot avoid the issue of filters at the input, you need to install a 400 Volt 10 uF capacitor and wind several turns of the network wire around the ferrite ring, that’s all.

All this came to me a little late and is not visible in the photo. Well, a sore subject, cooling of LEDs. How to provide good cooling, but so that all this is compact and without coolers. You know how in the fairy tale “There is a solution - you just need...” just now? - you ask. You need to reduce the LED supply voltage by 10-20% - that's all. Many will now say, but what if the brightness also drops? I can honestly tell you that the brightness will drop by no more than 5-10%. But you will extend the life of the LEDs, and at the same time reduce the generation of unnecessary heat.

We rewind the transformer, make a radiator from a piece of aluminum and attach LEDs as follows: apply a little thermal paste to the seat, then attach the LEDs to the radiator epoxy resin. I fixed it with hot glue for testing, but this is not a solution. Next, we collect everything into a “heap”. After testing, it turned out that the radiator area was too small, after which I installed a small cooler, which solved all the problems.

Final testing showed that the radiator temperature is only 38 degrees after 4 years of operation. When comparing an ordinary incandescent lamp and a made one new result, as they say, in person. Thank you all for your attention, Kalyan-Super-Boss was with you. Good luck repeating the pattern!