Where is the source of the Tunguska River. The lower Tunguska river in the Irkutsk region. Local Lore Museum of Yerbogachen village

In the Far East of Russia, among its many rivers, stretching across the endless expanses rich in natural gifts, there is an amazingly clean and beautiful Tunguska River. Is she left

It is along it that the border between the Khabarovsk Territory and the Jewish Autonomous Region passes, respectively located on the left and right banks.

General information

There is in these amazingly beautiful regions Podkamennaya Tunguska - a river that is one of the small pearls in a beautiful necklace of numerous natural attractions of Siberia.

The Tungus, who have lived for a long time in the vast territory of Eastern Siberia, in 1931 began to be called Evenks. And the fact that the Tungus lived for centuries along the banks of the Yenisei from the Arctic Ocean to the border with China is proved by the fact that there are many rivers with the name Tunguska. There are seven in total.

And there are 4 more rivers, in the name of which there are adjectives characterizing them: r. Podkamennaya Tunguska, the Upper Tunguska River and two Lower Rivers (one of them represents the old name of the Angara River). There is also a natural region in the southern zone called Tunguska. also bears the same name - "Stone Tunguska". The name "Tunguska" is quite popular.

River characteristics

The length of the river is 86 kilometers, the basin area is 30.2 thousand square kilometers. The average daily water consumption is 408 m³. The banks are very swampy, and therefore the access to the river is very difficult.

Freezing occurs here from November to April.

Source and mouth of the river

Tunguska, flowing through the Lower Amur lowland, is formed by the confluence of 2 rivers: Kur and Urmi. From the sources of the Urmi River, the length of the Tunguska is 544 kilometers, and from the sources of the Kur River - 434 kilometers.

A rather extensive floodplain is formed by the river, on which there are about 2 thousand lakes, making up a total area of ​​​​about 80 square meters. kilometers.

Nutrition

And Urmi bring the bulk of the water to the Tunguska. It is predominantly rain fed. Within the limits of the river catchment in winter, not much precipitation usually falls and the spring flood is insignificant.

Most of the floods occur during the summer monsoons. At 37 kilometers from the mouth, the largest water consumption is 5100 m³ per day, the smallest is 7.3 m³ per day, and the average annual water consumption is 380 cubic meters. m. per day.

Nizhnyaya Tunguska River

River width Lower Tunguska near the village of Tura reaches 390 meters. The Kochechum River, when it flows into it, is divided into two branches with a width of 340 and 380 meters, respectively. A large island appeared between them. Just below the confluence of these two rivers, the width of the Lower Tunguska reaches 520 meters.

This river is very rich in fish. In total, about two dozen species are found here. The most numerous of them are taimen, perch, whitefish, grayling, peled, pike and roach. The fish here are very large, for example, you can catch a pike weighing about 12 kilograms and a taimen - more than 10 kilograms.

The nature of the river

Tunguska (river) is a fast, powerful and full-flowing body of water. Its sandy-gravel cliffs alternate with rocky shores. The bottom of the river is rocky, covered with coarse-grained sand and gravel. The water in it and in its tributaries is clear with a gray-greenish tint.

The thickness of the ice in January reaches one meter, and freeze-up begins in early October. During the ice drift, which begins in May, huge jams from blocks of ice appear on the river, in connection with which the floodplain and the territory of some villages are flooded.

The tributary of the Lower Tunguska is a river with a very interesting and cute name Eika. There are several more tributaries with no less interesting names: Nepa, Severnaya, Ilimpeya, Teteya, Uchami, Vivi and many others. others

Tura and its inhabitants

The dense forests of the northern taiga surround the village called Tura. Roads lead to it, accessible only to vehicles with increased traffic. From other cities and regions, you can only get here by helicopter or by plane from Krasnoyarsk and some cities of the region. You can also get to the village by motorboat and boat from the Yenisei, having risen through the water to the Lower Tunguska.

Tura is the capital of Evenkia. Tourists heading north often stop here, where the Putora Plateau, which is of interest to everyone, is located, as well as the place where the famous Tunguska meteorite fell.

Tunguska is a river that was chosen by numerous rafting tourists. The best period for such an extreme type of recreation here is the month of August. Moreover, all travelers are happy to go fishing along the way, which in these places is a great pleasure.

Life in the village of Tura largely depends on the nearby rivers. The Lower Tunguska is a conduit for many cargoes for residents of local coastal villages and towns. Also, residents of the settlements of the region move along the river.
The most popular activity among the inhabitants of Tura is fishing and picking berries in the summer. They prepare fish both for themselves and for sale.

There are no industrial enterprises near the banks of the river, which, as a rule, discharge industrial effluents, which explains the presence of a huge amount of fish in the river, and large ones.

Economic importance

The Tunguska is a river that is navigable along almost its entire length. Large volumes of timber were rafted through its waters until the 1990s.

There are no road bridges across Tunguska, but there is a railway bridge along the Komsomolsk-on-Amur - Volochaevka-2 line.

Tunguska, as noted above, is very rich in fish. In autumn, the chum salmon goes there to spawn.

Conclusion

Not only the waters of the river are rich in living creatures, but the vegetation along the banks is also no less diverse and magnificent. Along the entire length of the river, the banks were overgrown with untrodden dense forests of coniferous trees. Pine, larch, spruce and Siberian cedars grow here. You can also meet alder with birch, as well as mountain ash with bird cherry. The regions are also rich in a variety of delicious and healthy berries: black and red currants, lingonberries, cranberries, cloudberries and blueberries.

In conclusion, I would like to note that it is the Lower Tunguska that is called the famous Gloomy River: this is how it was called by the writer in his famous novel of the same name.

The Lower Tunguska is the second largest right tributary of the river, flowing along the Central Siberian Plateau entirely within the borders of Russia.
The river begins on the Upper Tunguska Upland, the upper reaches are very close to the river. Here is a historical place - portage, along which Russian pioneers dragged their wooden ships from one river to another. However, navigation on the river comes with many dangers. There are many rapids in the riverbed, the largest ones have their own names (Uchaminsky, Bolshoy, Oblique). Below the rapids, the depth can drop to 100 m, powerful whirlpools are formed. Along the entire river there are long stone corgi screes up to 10 m high. The river breaks into branches, forming islands.
In some places, the Lower Tunguska expands up to 20 km, forming a kind of lakes.
Freeze-up on the river is long - from October to May, there is a lot of ice, in spring the duration of ice drift reaches 10 days, constant ice jams with a rise in water level up to 35-40 m (!), Which leads to extensive floods. Ice drift and turbulent currents have crushing power, washing away coasts, polishing rocks and uprooting trees.
The river flows in the subarctic climate zone, here the average annual temperature is below zero, severe frosts in winter, and very little snow falls, which is why permafrost is widespread along the banks, the thickness of which reaches 200 m.
The river got its name in the 17th century. from Russian explorers. Tunguska - because the Tungus (the former name of the Evenks) lived on its banks; and the Lower - to distinguish it from the other two Tunguskas - the Middle and the Upper. These names indicated their position relative to the flow of the same Yenisei. The Evenks themselves call the river Katenga.
The Russians first appeared in the lower reaches of the river in 1607, imposed a fur tax on the Evenki, but did not build any large settlements and prisons due to the harsh climate and the complete impossibility of farming in permafrost conditions.
The Lower Tunguska almost comes into contact with the Lena, but the 15-kilometer canal between them has remained an unrealizable dream.
There is not a single urban settlement on the Lower Tunguska, only two large settlements - Turukhansk and Tura.
In the river basin in the middle of the XIX century. large reserves of graphite were discovered, mined in an open way in small volumes. At present, the field has been recognized as unprofitable, and production has been stopped. Because of the rapids, the Lower Tunguska is navigable only in the upper and lower reaches, and even then only in the spring and autumn floods, when boats and barges go to the village of Tura. At the mouth of the river stands Turukhansk wharf.
The river basin is located within the Tunguska coal basin - the largest in Russia, with an area of ​​over 1 million km2. Under Soviet rule, the development of the local section of the pool was carried out by the prisoners from the camps. Currently, mining has shifted to the south, where it is possible to extract coal in an open way and export it to enterprises in the Krasnoyarsk Territory.
The population along the banks of the river lives in small villages that have grown up on the site of Evenk camps and merchant shops. The national composition of the local population is incredibly diverse: Russians, Evenks, Yakuts, Nganasans, Belarusians, Ukrainians, Germans, Estonians, Finns ... The indigenous people of these places are Evenks; Russians are the descendants of the pioneers and those who developed these lands, Germans, Estonians, Finns - including the descendants of those exiled here during the war and post-war years. But even before that, from the end of the 1930s, camps for exiles were created here, and until 1956 the released prisoners had restrictions on their rights and settled in remote settlements, for example, in Turukhansk.
The main occupation of the population that settled on the banks of the river is hunting and fishing, as well as farming for personal needs.
The banks of the river are overgrown with coniferous trees: spruce, larch, pine, Siberian cedar. There are birch, alder, bird cherry and mountain ash. A lot of berries: red and black currants, cranberries, lingonberries, blueberries and cloudberries. In the rivers there are burbot, pike, lenok, grayling, sorog, dace.

general information

Location: Eastern Siberia. Right tributary of the Yenisei River.
Water system: Yenisei -> Kara Sea.
Administrative affiliation: Irkutsk region and the Russian Federation.
Source: Upper Tunguska Upland, Central Siberian Plateau.
Mouth: confluence with the Yenisei.
Food: mostly snow, to a lesser extent rain.
Main tributaries: right - Kochenum, Vivi, Tutonchana, Northern; left - Ilimpeya, Taimur, Nepa, Big Yerema, Uchami.
Settlements: settlements of Tura - 5506 people. (2015), Turukhansk - 4662 people. (2010), Tutonchany - 223 people. (2014).
Languages: Russian, Evenki.
Ethnic composition: Russians, Evenks, Yakuts, Nganasans.
Religions: Christianity (Orthodoxy), shamanism.
Currency unit: Russian ruble.

Numbers

Length: 2989 km.
Basin: 473,000 km2.
Average water consumption: 3680 m3/s.
Average depth: 4-6 m.

Climate and weather

Continental Subarctic.
High water: May-July (73% of the annual flow).
Floods: rain, summer and autumn.
Average air temperature in January: -34°C.
Average air temperature in July: +16°С.
Average annual rainfall: 380 mm.
Relative humidity: 70%.

Economy

Minerals: coal (stone - coking, anthracite, brown; all - Tunguska coal basin), graphite.
Agriculture: crop production (potatoes, vegetables, some cereals).
Hunting and fishing.
Service sector: tourism, trade, transport (including shipping).

Attractions

Natural

Logancha meteorite crater, rapids Uchaminsky, Vivinsky, Bolshoy (Oron) and Kosoy, scree-kurums, backwaters-smokers, whirlpools-korchagi, pebble strips-tore lines, cliffs-bulls, rock Bad Cape, Mount Severny Kamen, rifts of Spartak, Gerasimovsky and Kamenny, the islands of Iryakta, Gagarii, Korablik and Zhuravlinye.

Curious facts

■ Features of the riverbed of the Lower Tunguska gave rise to many local names. On the slopes of the river valley there are kurums - screes of large stones with a diameter of up to 0.5-1.5 m. When such screes protrude far into the channel, they are called corgi. The backwater behind these braids is called a chicken. River whirlpools are called korchags here. Strips made of rounded stones with a diameter of 10-40 cm along the coast are called towpaths. The towpaths are so tightly knocked down and polished with water that they form a semblance of a pavement. They are named so because in the old days, weavers (barge haulers) pulled on a tow line upstream a barge-ilimka with a load. Rocky cliffs approaching the river from one side are called bulls.
■ The word "Tungus" came from the Kets - a small people, the western neighbors of the Evenks. In the Ket language, "tungasket" means "people of three kinds" - deer, horse and dog. This refers to the difference in the animal that the Evenks used for transport.
■ In the basin of the Vivi River (Krasnoyarsk Territory) - the right tributary of the Lower Tunguska - there is one of the largest meteorite craters in Russia, called Logancha. This impact crater is the result of a meteorite impact 40 million years ago. Its diameter is about 22 km. The crater is noticeably deformed by later geological processes.
■ At the beginning of the XX century. In the 18th century, there was a project to connect the Lena and Nizhnyaya Tunguska rivers by a canal near the city of Kirensk: here the rivers are separated from each other at a distance of only 15 km. The project was rejected due to the large difference in altitude (the Lena flows at an altitude of 245 m, and the Lower Tunguska - 330 m), and also because the Lower Tunguska is completely unnavigable in this section.
■ Before the revolution, the leader of the Soviet state, Joseph Stalin (1878/1879-1953), was exiled in the Lower Tunguska region. In March 1913, Stalin was arrested for underground activities, imprisoned and deported to the Turukhansk region of the Yenisei province for a period of four years, where he stayed until the end of autumn 1916.
■ Sometimes the Lower Tunguska is called the Gloomy River: this is how the writer Vyacheslav Shishkov (1873-1945) called it in his famous novel of the same name.

After parting with new friends, he again went to the public option of movement. Without any problems, I took a ticket for the Korshunikha electric train - Ust-Kut, which is about a four-hour drive away. It is interesting that the city is called Ust-Kut, the railway station is called Lena, and the pier on the Lena River is called Osetrovo.

City of Ust-Kut: Osetrovo river port. This is how one of the greatest rivers of the Earth looks like - the Lena River - in its upper reaches

From here, you can get to Kirensk along the Lena River on the Zarya or faster motor ships, hydrofoils, Polissya, or private cars. In the morning it turned out that the Zarya had broken down. Some of the passengers, cursing and overloading, managed to squeeze into the Polesie, while the rest, about 20-30 people, were offered “live a little, just three or four days” and wait until the Zarya is repaired. Today is Friday, and the next ship will go on schedule only on Monday. We managed to negotiate with a private trader in a Niva car - and after 12 hours of driving with getting stuck in mud pits, a car breakdown, having covered more than 250 km, we reached Kirensk, already located on the banks of the Lena River. Again, the question arose: where to sleep and how to eat? The driver who drove us helped with accommodation. I arranged for a familiar watchman in the supply room, where there was even an electric stove. I cooked dinner and, tired after a hard day with a lot of hassle, fell asleep almost immediately.

Lena River near Kirensk

From detailed inquiries and conversations with the locals, I found out that I needed to cross to the left bank of the Lena River and further, having crossed the ridge, which can be seen in the Northeast, to get to the abandoned village of Verkhnekarelina, already standing on the Lower Tunguska. "It's fifty versts and a hook" . Knowing what they are, these taiga versts, and even “with a hook,” he expected to be at the water of the Lower Tunguska in a week. I crossed without any problems by ferry from the right to the left bank of the Lena River. I went along a country road to the hills visible in the distance. It started to rain. The UAZ caught up with me, the guys stopped - they offered me a lift. I traveled 5-6 km, which saved me 1.5-2 hours of walking with a heavy backpack. The guys turned to the mowing, and I, once again specifying the route of movement and orienting myself on the map, went further.

An hour later, a motorcyclist with a sidecar caught up with me. He waved his hand and the man stopped. Upon learning that I was going to the Lower Tunguska, he said without further ado: "Get in, - to the fork in our path." The uncle drove 7-8 km and landed at the turn of the road, going up to the hills through the ridge. In this way, I have already traveled 15-20 km - and the Siberians saved me one and a half to two days of walking under a heavy load. As soon as I settled down to have a bite, a UAZ-loaf rolled onto the primer going up to the pass. It was a car transporting oil and gas pipe-layers. I read about it in the press and saw it on TV, and at the insistence of scientists, ecologists and Siberians, V.V. Putin moved the thread around Baikal.

Oil and gas pipe laying team

There was already a shift in the car, seven people, but I was warmly received and they began to ask who I was, where I was from and where I was going. He told about the campaign to the sources of the Podkamennaya Tunguska, about the plans for reconnaissance of the upper reaches of the Lower Tunguska and that in the future I was thinking of sailing along the "Gloomy River". The men in uniforms even remembered the film of the same name and the difficulties that the main character, Proshka Gromov, had when rafting along it. We drove 12-15 km - and the UAZ stopped "at the crossroads." Further to their place of work could only be reached by all-terrain vehicle or "Ural". I began to say goodbye to the pipelayers who had brought me up. But they didn't let me leave. "Wait, now the shift will come - they will give you a lift." After 15-20 minutes, the mighty Ural-Watch came out of the taiga covered in mud. A brigade of men came out of it, and my fellow travelers went to work, after asking their own people to give me a lift to the Nizhnyaya Tunguska River. "What problems, let's go," - after the shift, a team of men made a twenty-five-kilometer detour for me - just to help a complete stranger to them! This is how it is, Siberia and those who live and work here! Yes, there is no other way. Or maybe this is the very mysterious Russian soul, or "Peculiarities of national travel" in Russia?! Half an hour later, a strip of clear water appeared ahead. Here it is, the Lower Tunguska - hello, "Gloomy River"!

Hello, Gloomy River!

Verkhnekarelina village (non-residential) on the Nizhnyaya Tunguska river

The opening view was not at all gloomy, but bright and joyful, with a field on which the tractor "Belarus" was swarming, mowing the grass, a coniferous forest mixed with birch and linden, with a blue ribbon of a taiga river. Since I was so lucky with passing transport and managed to save at least five days, I decide to go up the river for reconnaissance. Having found a beautiful clearing where in the future it is possible to place a slipway and build a catamaran, I stopped for a day. It will be possible to start the rafting from here, as there is already quite enough water here, above the knees, to raise the catamaran. Although I suppose that there will still be shallows, and rifts, and creases from logs brought by the flood. But this is another song and another season - the season of rafting along one of the prototypes of the "Gloomy River" - the Lower Tunguska (see "Summer-2008"), the length of which is 2.989 km (Great Soviet Encyclopedia).

After Dnevka went on his way back. The time was drawing near for dinner. Clouds began to slowly gather in the sky. Apparently, a thunderstorm will soon cover me - which means that I will either have to stay for the night, or stay without dinner. I had almost reached the “pipe-laying crossroads” when a white Niva caught up with me. The car stopped, there were two men in it - and they offered to take me to Kirensk. (As it turned out much later, this was the chief engineer of the gas pipeline section under construction and his driver). One and a half to two hours of talking and asking questions flew by unnoticed, and I, “like an important person”, drove the remaining 35-40 km, like in a fairy tale. The guys offered to drop by the construction headquarters and eat there in the dining room. (Here I found out who helped me get out of the taiga). I sat on a chair, at a table with a tablecloth , on which there was a vase with bread - as in my student years.

Bread on the route was a delicacy for me, yes, generally speaking, it is usually in short supply on all hikes in the wilderness. It is usually replaced with crackers or, if there is flour, pancakes. The men watched with surprise, but, in my opinion, with understanding, as I ate two portions of the first and second and washed down with four glasses of compote. After such a dense either a late lunch or an early dinner, I swam on a ferry to the right bank of the Lena. At the landing stage, which replaced the pier in Kirensk, I learned that the ships "Zarya" and "Polesie" at Osetrovo (Ust-Kut) would be tomorrow at 8.30. The overnight issue was resolved very well. Victor Sukhikh, who was on duty at the landing stage, having learned what kind of journey I had made, offered to spend the night in his cabin. I went to wander around the city and try to find a museum. I found the museum, but it was already closed, it was evening time. I photographed and videotaped the house of the real "merchant Gromov" (which served as a prototype for the protagonist of the novel "Gloomy River"), preserved from the last century.

The thunderstorm that broke out, from which, thanks to the pipelayers, I managed to escape, here in the city drove me to a cabin on the landing stage. They were about to go to bed when Victor's brother Grigory came. During the conversation, it turned out that the director of the Kirensky Museum, Olga, studied in the same class as Grisha. Today she is on duty at the museum, moonlighting as a security guard. Upon learning that I had not been able to visit the museum, and that I was leaving tomorrow morning, Grisha immediately called his classmate, explained the situation, and she said: “Bring your friend.” When we arrived, Olga, despite the late hour - it was half past midnight - not only opened the observation halls, but also as a guide in great detail, with knowledge of the matter and sincere interest, took us through the thematic rooms, showed and told us what the Kirensky Museum is rich in . Here they are - Siberians!

Goodbye Lena River and the city of Kirensk!

In the morning I boarded the ship "Zarya" - and ten hours later I found myself in the already familiar Osetrovo river port. I transferred my things to the Lena railway station, took tickets with three transfers in Krasnoyarsk, Omsk and Chelyabinsk to Orenburg. I went to the waiting room: I had to change lanes 8 hours before the train arrived. There were still two hours left before my train, just in case, just out of habit to look for and use all possible chances, I went to the ticket office and found out that there was a free seat on the direct train coming in 30 minutes (without transfers) "Severobaikalsk - Anapa" to Orenburg, on the top shelf and on any!!! Another 3 days of driving - and I ended up on the platform in the city of Orenburg. That's it, the trip to the origins of the two Tunguska and the epic "Summer 2007" of the year are over.

As a result, I found out the following:

1. It is impossible to raft down the Podkamennaya Tunguska from the sources: there is too little water. But that's another story, another song. WHAT WAS DONE in "SUMMER - 2010", in July - August. See "Tunguska Phenomenon" - "Summer 2010" - beginning, end.

2. You can raft along the Lower Tunguska, which served as one of the prototypes of the "Gloomy River" in the novel by V. Shishkov, from the non-residential village of Verkhnekarelina - WHAT WAS DONE in "SUMMER - 2008", in July - August.

But that's another story, another song...

And you can do it too!

Nikolai Kuznetsov

Posted Fri, 01/04/2016 - 07:33 by Cap

They rarely go along the Lower Tunguska. They often float along the tributaries. For the most part, the river is used as the final section of the route along its tributaries or as an addition to foot exits in the area of ​​​​its basin. Large tributaries Tutonchana, Vivi, Kochechum, Severnaya, Erachimo and others flow into the Lower Tunguska, each of which is used for independent travel.

The course of the Lower Tunguska in this section is 5 - 7 km / h. The river flows in picturesque banks.

On the first 100 km of rafting, there are several easy rifts. Sometimes there are single stones in the channel. At the 130th km from the mouth of the Nimde, there is the Great Rapid, about 1 km long. Here the river narrows (its width is about 100 m), the speed of the flow increases significantly. In the middle of the river is a drain from a huge rock slab.

When approaching the threshold, you will have to bypass the ridge of pitfalls, which begins at the right bank, and then goes across the channel. There are also pitfalls on the left. In the threshold, the shaft is higher than 1 m. The main passage is near the right bank. The rampart on the threshold floods small vessels: you need to be careful and move away from the rampart. On the right bank below the threshold there is a weather station.

GEOGRAPHY OF THE LOWER TUNGUSKA
The Lower Tunguska is a river in Siberia, in the Irkutsk region and the Krasnoyarsk region of Russia, the right tributary of the Yenisei. It flows along the Central Siberian Plateau south of the Putorana Plateau. The river is navigable in high water to the village of Tura. At the mouth is the Turukhansk pier. The second largest right tributary of the Yenisei, which flows into it near the city of Turukhansk. Freeze from October to May. Spring flood in the upper reaches of the river in May/June, in the lower reaches in May/July.

According to the nature of the flow, the structure of the valley and banks, the river can be divided into two sections: the upper one - from the source to the village. Preobrazhenskoye (Preobrazhenka); lower - from this village to the mouth.

upstream
In the upper part, 580 km long, the riverbed lies in a wide valley, the gentle slopes of which are composed of clay-sand deposits. In this part of its course, the Lower Tunguska comes close to the river. Lena near the city of Kirensk; here the two rivers are separated by a distance of 15–20 km. The current velocities on the rifts are 0.4-0.6 m/s, while on the stretches they are small.

downstream
Below p. Preobrazhensky Lower Tunguska flows in a narrow and deep valley with high, often rocky shores. The channel is characterized by numerous lake-like extensions, sometimes reaching a length of 20 km or more.

Numerous rapids are found in the riverbed at the outcrops of crystalline rocks. The most significant of them are "Sakko", "Vivinsky", "Uchamsky" and "Big" (Oron), where the current speed reaches 3-5 m/s. Below the rapids, the depth of the river reaches 60–100 m.
Often on the slopes of the valley one can observe kurums or talus of large stones, up to 0.5-1.5 m in diameter. ".

Along the shore stretches a strip of "towpath" made of stones 10-40 cm in diameter. In some places the stones lie so tightly and are so polished from above that they form a kind of pavement. In the lower reaches, below the confluence of the river. North, the river flows among sheer limestone cliffs, abruptly breaking off into the water; the flow velocities here are 1–1.5 m/s.
In the channel of the Lower Tunguska whirlpools are formed in places (locally - "korchagi"). They arise in places where a rocky cliff protrudes deeply into the riverbed from one bank. The stream, hitting it, sharply deviates to the opposite bank. Below the cliffs in such places, the river forms whirlpools with funnels up to 100 m deep. Korchagi are especially dangerous for navigation in the spring during the flood period, when the water rises high above the low water level.

river hydrology
In terms of annual flow, the Lower Tunguska ranks eleventh among the rivers of Russia. The average annual water flow - at the mouth is 3680 m³ / s, which corresponds to an annual flow of 116 km³ per year.

The minimum discharge was observed in 1967 and amounted to 2861 m³/s, the maximum - 4690 m³/s in 1974 or, respectively, for the mouth of the river ~3093 m³/s and ~5070 m³/s. The river is fed by melting snow and summer rains.

In winter, the river is shallow, since its basin is located in the permafrost area and it receives very poor ground nutrition. Over a period of 52 years, the minimum average monthly flow was 27.8 m³/s in March 1969—an unusually dry winter—while the maximum monthly flow was 31.5 thousand m³/s (June 1959).[

Below is a diagram of the average water content of the Lower Tunguska in m³ / s by months, obtained on the basis of 52 years of observations from the Bolshoi Porog monitoring and measuring station.

The summer-spring flood accounts for 73% of the river's annual flow. The amplitude of water level fluctuations is very large and is the largest observed on the main rivers of Russia. In narrowed places, powerful ice jams are observed, at which the level rises by 30-35 m above the low water. The spring ice drift on the Lower Tunguska is stormy; traces of its action on the coast are visible on polished rocks, uprooted trees, etc. On some days, the spring flood reaches 74-112 thousand m³ / s and provides up to 50-70% of the flood volume of water in the lower Yenisei.

tributaries
The main tributaries of the Lower Tunguska: on the right are the Eika, Kochechum, Yambukan, Vivi, Tutonchana, Erachimo, Severnaya; on the left - Nepa, Bolshaya Yerema, Teteya, Ilimpeya, Nidym, Taimura, Uchami. The main tributary of the Lower Tunguska is the river. Kochechum with an average annual water discharge at the mouth of 600 m³ / s and a basin area of ​​​​about 100 thousand km².

Shipping
Navigation along the river is fraught with difficulties due to the large number of rapids and whirlpools. Navigation of heavy ships is possible during the spring flood and in some years, in the presence of heavy precipitation, a period of short-term navigation is possible in late summer - early autumn. Especially dangerous for navigation is the Great Rapid (Oron), 128-130 km from the mouth.

In 1927, the first steamboat passed through the Great Threshold; this was the beginning of navigation on the Lower Tunguska from the city of Turukhansk to the village. Tours. For 2009, the shipping area of ​​the Yenisei Shipping Company includes the village of Kislokan, 1155 km from the mouth. Rafting is possible throughout the river.

In 1911, surveys were carried out and a project was developed to connect the Lena and Nizhnyaya Tunguska rivers in the area of ​​the city of Kirensk. Near this city, both rivers are 15 km apart from each other, but the Lena flows at an altitude of 245.3 m above sea level, and the Lower Tunguska at an altitude of 329.7 m and is a non-navigable river here. At the beginning of the 20th century, the construction of the canal was considered inexpedient due to the complexity and high cost.

Interesting Facts
The history of the colonization of the north of Western Siberia and the region of the mouth of the river by Russians, starting from the 16th-17th centuries, was reflected in various names that the river bore in different historical periods. For some time the river was called Trinity Tunguska, Monastyrskaya Tunguska and Mangazeyskaya Tunguska.
In the literature, the Lower Tunguska is described in the novel by V. Ya. Shishkov "The Gloomy River". The fictitious name of the Ugryum-river could have been borrowed by the author from a Siberian song. In the village of Yerbogachen on the river, which in the novel was called Yerbokhomokhlya, there is a local history museum named after. V. Ya. Shishkova. The author in 1911 participated in an expedition to the Lower Tunguska.
Existing sources indicate the flow of water at the mouth of the tributary of the river. Northern equal to 300 m³ / s. Taking into account the fact that the hydrographic point "Big threshold" on the river. The Lower Tunguska is located higher from the confluence of the Northern Tunguska (62 km), which means that the average water flow at the mouth of the Lower Tunguska - equal to 3680 m³ / s - is significantly underestimated. If the water flow at a distance of ~ 120 km from the confluence of the Yenisei river. The lower Tunguska is 3404 m³/s, then the value for the mouth in this case should be 3700-3900 m³/s.

At present, the issue of building the Evenki hydroelectric power station on Nizhnyaya Tunguska, which, if the project is implemented, will become the largest hydroelectric power station in Russia, is being discussed.

TURUKHANSK
Turukhansk is a village that has lost the status of a city, the administrative center of the Turukhansky district of the Krasnoyarsk Territory of Russia. The administrative center of the Turukhansk rural settlement. There is an airport and a river port.
Initially, the Turukhansk settlement appeared in the 17th century at the confluence of the Turukhan River with the Yenisei, on its left bank. Zimovye (later - the city of Novaya Mangazeya) was part of the Turukhan trade route, which was mainly used for the fur trade.

Subsequently, Turukhansk fell into decay, was deprived of the status of a city, and its name passed to the village of Monastyrsky, modern Turukhansk, which is located about 35 km to the southeast, on the other side of the Yenisei. Old Turukhansk is now called Staroturukhansk (65°54′55″ N 87°34′30″ E (G) (O)). After the October Revolution of 1917, there was a tendency to increase the population of the village of Monastyrskoye at the confluence of the Nizhnyaya Tunguska River into the Yenisei, on its right bank. The village was renamed Turukhansk.

Since the late 1930s, the Soviet authorities created special camps for exiles in the Turukhansk region. Until 1956, released prisoners had limited rights and settled in remote settlements, including Turukhansk.
According to the census, in 1989 the population of Turukhansk reached 8.9 thousand inhabitants, but after the collapse of the USSR, people began to move to more climatically favorable regions of the country, including in the south of the Krasnoyarsk Territory.

Early 19th century
There are two churches in the city: a stone church of the Transfiguration of the Lord (built by Matvey Fedorovich Khoroshev, illuminated in 1829) and a wooden church of Peter and Paul. Government houses: a bread shop, a salt barn, a wine cellar and a powder cellar. The city is controlled by a Separate Assessor, there are also Salt Bailiff and a hundred Cossacks of the Yenisei Cossack Regiment under the control of one Hundred Officer.
There are 52 philistine houses, philistines live in them: 124 males, 107 females, peasants: 19 males, 16 females. The houses, as a rule, are small, most of them are heated black and without yards. Some have baths and quarters for livestock. Farming is not developed. Men spend most of the year away from the city, hunting and fishing. The basis of winter nutrition is fish and wild birds.
Mail from Yeniseisk to Turukhansk and back was delivered once a month on the 5th. Mail delivery was carried out in summer by boats, and in winter by sleds, which were moved by a person, deer or dogs.

Population
1897 1989 2002 2010
212 ↗8900 ↘4849 ↘4662

Turukhansk is located 1,474 kilometers north of Krasnoyarsk, at the confluence of the Lower Tunguska with the Yenisei, 120 kilometers south of the Arctic Circle. The settlement is located on the right bank of the Yenisei River, geographically belongs to the western part of Eastern Siberia and to the western foothills of the Central Siberian Plateau.
Turukhansk is located in the taiga zone with a sharply continental subarctic climate. The average temperatures in July are 16.5 °C, in January -25.4 °C, there may be frosts down to -57 °C. On average, about 598 mm of precipitation falls per year.

The average annual negative temperature and low winter temperatures determine the wide distribution of permafrost, whose thickness in this area reaches 50-200 m.
During spring floods, the water level in the Yenisei can rise up to 11 m above normal, which is largely due to floods in the Nizhnyaya Tunguska.
On the Yenisei from Krasnoyarsk or Yeniseisk during the navigation period (navigation in the upper reaches of the Yenisei from about May 25 to September 25, depending on the temperature, plus or minus 10 days), motor ships run to Dudinka with a stop in Turukhansk.
Place of reference
At various times, the following were exiled to Turukhansk:
Decembrist Lisovsky, Nikolai Fedorovich (1828-1844)
Solts, Aron Alexandrovich (- 1917)
Martov, Julius Osipovich (1896)
Sverdlov, Yakov Mikhailovich (1913-1917)
Voyno-Yasenetsky, Valentin Feliksovich (St. Luke) (1923-1925)
Before the revolution, Joseph Stalin (Dzhugashvili) was exiled in the Turukhansk region.
Joasaph (Udalov) (1926-1929)
Kramarov, Viktor Savelyevich (father of Kramarov Savely Viktorovich) (1950-1951)
Efron, Ariadna Sergeevna (daughter of Marina Tsvetaeva and Sergei Efron) (1949-1955)
and others.

ALLOY ON THE LOWER TUNGUSKA
Rafting length - 240 km
Duration - 7 - 8 days
Seasonality - July - August
Difficulty category - II
Only the Lower Tunguska is rarely visited. For the most part, the river is used as the final section of the route along its tributaries or as an addition to foot exits in the area of ​​​​its basin. Large tributaries of the Tutonchan, Vivi, Kochechum, Severnaya, Erachimo and others flow into the Lower Tunguska, each of which is used for independent travel.
You can sail along the Lower Tunguska, starting from Tura, where planes fly from Krasnoyarsk: this is a long, simple route along the powerful taiga river. During the trip, you can fish in the tributaries, admire the majestic landscapes.
The lower reaches of the river can be an interesting addition, for example, to a hiking route along the southern part of the Western Putorana with a length of up to 300 km: the valley of the Erachimo River - the valley of the Holokit River - Lake Oneka - the valley of the Nimde River - the mouth of the Nimde River. From the mouth of Nimde, you can raft on any tourist boat, depending on the group's capabilities.
The course of the Lower Tunguska in this section is 5 - 7 km / h. The river flows in picturesque banks. On the first 100 km of rafting, there are several easy rifts. Sometimes there are single stones in the channel. At the 130th km from the mouth of the Nimde, there is the Great Rapid, about 1 km long. Here the river narrows (its width is about 100 m), the speed of the flow increases significantly. In the middle of the river is a drain from a huge rock slab. When approaching the threshold, you will have to bypass the ridge of pitfalls, which begins at the right bank, and then goes across the channel. There are also pitfalls on the left. In the threshold, the shaft is higher than 1 m. The main passage is near the right bank. The rampart on the threshold floods small vessels: you need to be careful and move away from the rampart. On the right bank below the threshold there is a weather station.
Other obstacles should be noted: the Gerasimovo rift, 200 - 300 m below the mouth of the Yerachimo (passage on the left side of the channel: on the right there are many stones); threshold "Cheeks" 10 - 12 km below the meteorological station (the river is compressed by high rocks); The "oblique" threshold is 85 km from the weather station (here, in the narrowing of the river, a ridge of pitfalls stretches to the right, and a ridge of surface boulders juts out into the river on the left; the threshold is overcome closer to the right bank). Before the confluence of the right tributary - the North, there are several simple rifts. Further up to Turukhansk itself, there are only separate "clips" to the rocks.
The journey ends in Turukhansk, from where you can get to Krasnoyarsk by water or air.

SIGHTS OF LOWER TUNGUSKA
The channel of the Lower Tunguska is replete with rapids (the local name is shivers) and rapids.
In many places the river cuts through outcrops of hard crystalline rocks (traps). Where the channel passes among high, steep banks, traps made of weathered outcrops, characteristic columnar sections (pillars) are formed and stone screes are observed, sometimes protruding far into the riverbed. Such screes are called corgi.

Turin bull
(left bank of the Lower Tunguska).
On the right - the mouth of Kochechum
Upon leaving the mountains on the plain, in places spurs of mountain hills approach the river from one or the other bank, abruptly breaking off to the water's edge. Such rocky cliffs, approaching the river from one side, are called local bulls.
According to the nature of the flow, the structure of the valley and banks, the river can be divided into two sections:
1) upper - from the source to the village. Preobrazhenskoe and
2) lower - from the named village to the mouth.
In the upper section, about 580 km long, the river mostly flows along the bottom of a wide valley, the gentle slopes of which are composed of clay-sand deposits. In this part of its course, the Lower Tunguska comes close to the river. Lena; here both rivers are separated by a distance of 15-20 km. The flow velocities on the rifts are 0.4-0.6 m/s, and on the stretches they are small.

Below p. Preobrazhensky Lower Tunguska flows in a narrow and deep valley with high, often rocky shores. In the riverbed, in the places of outcrops of crystalline rocks, there are numerous rapids.
Often on the slopes of the valley one can observe screes of large stones, up to 0.5-1.5 m in diameter. Such screes sometimes go far into the channel and are called corgi, and the quiet backwater that forms behind these spits is called kuri. Along the shore stretches a strip of "scourge" made of stones with a diameter of 10-40 cm. In some places the stones lie so tightly and are so polished from above that they form an "alluvial pavement".
(Along the towpath, in the old days, weavers pulled limkas with loads on the towpath upstream).
According to the dictionary of V.I. Dahl's use of the words towline, towpath (see below the figure from A.A. Sokolov's work "Hydrography of the USSR") is incorrect, the words should be pronounced and written correctly: BICHEVA, BICEVNIK.

In the lower reaches, below the confluence of the river. North, the river flows among sheer limestone cliffs, abruptly breaking off into the water; the flow velocity here is 1-1.5 m/s.
In the channel of the Lower Tunguska, powerful whirlpools (locally - korchagi) form in places. They arise in places where a rocky cliff protrudes deeply into the riverbed from one bank.
The stream, hitting it, sharply deviates to the opposite bank. A whirlpool forms below the cliff, where the river produces a funnel sometimes up to 60-100 m deep.
Such, for example, is the korchaga in the area of ​​the Catch Stone (Khayuli catch), 398 km from the mouth. The depth of the fairway of 1964 in this place was more than 36 meters. Korchags are especially dangerous for navigation in the spring during the flood period, when the water rises high above the low water level.
The depth of the whirlpool (korchagi), formed by a similar rock on the left bank of the river. Vivi, 4 km from its mouth, reaches more than 90 m, approx. AK.
The average annual water consumption of the Lower Tunguska is 3600 m3/s. The river is fed by water from melting snow and summer rains. In winter, the river is shallow, since its basin is located in the permafrost area and it receives very poor ground nutrition. The amplitude of water level fluctuations is very large and is the largest observed on the rivers of the USSR.
In narrowed places (in the cheeks), powerful ice jams are observed, in which the level rises by 30-35 m above the low water.
The spring ice drift on the Lower Tunguska is stormy. Traces of its action on the banks are visible on polished rocks, uprooted trees, etc.
Navigation along the river is fraught with difficulties due to the large number of rapids and whirlpools. Particularly dangerous for navigation is the Big Rapid (128-130 km from the mouth) and the trough near the city of Turukhansk.
According to the data of water gauges, the amplitude of fluctuations in the water level in the river (between the maximum navigational and minimum navigational levels) gradually increases towards the mouth of the Lower Tunguska and reaches 31.8 m at the Bolshoy Porog.

In 1927, the first steamship passed through the Great Threshold; this was the beginning of navigation on the Lower Tunguska from the city of Turukhansk to the settlement of Tura.
Rafting is possible throughout the river.
In 1911, surveys were carried out and a project was developed for connecting pp. Lena and Lower Tunguska in the area of ​​Kirensk. Due to the complexity and high cost, the construction of the canal was deemed inappropriate.

Explanation for the table:
In brackets are given local names used by the inhabitants of Tura (for example, the rocks of the First Pillars, Militia, the camp "Meteorite", etc.), in brackets are also the new values ​​of the distances on the kilometer pillars established along the banks of the river, for example, p.g. T. Tura 864 km (866 km).
The distance values ​​were replaced in connection with the publication of a new more accurate location (Map of the Nizhnyaya Tunguska River from the village of Kislokan to the mouth, 1976). It was made based on the materials of hydrographic works carried out in 1970-1974. channel survey parties of the Yenisei technical section.

In this regard, discrepancies arose in the distances to the settlements of Nizhnyaya and Podkamennaya Tungusok, which are taken from the page of the Yenisei Shipping Company website - here Kislokan is located at a distance of 1155 km, and in this table at 1152 km.
In general, the discrepancies were 3-2 km, but the distances between the points remained the same, and in order to calculate them (for example, for a trip), the accuracy indicated in the table will be enough.
place name of Nizhnyaya Tunguska
Distance
from mouth (km)
Rock Bad Cape
7
R. Northern (right tributary)
63
north stone
67,5
Oblique threshold
Shivera Oblique Threshold
formed by rocky shoals running from both banks, narrowing the ship's passage and forming a fast current. At high levels, shallows are flooded
85-86
roll of Spartacus
Rocky shoals up to 250 m into the river depart from the right and left banks. The entire riverbed is full of rocks. The smallest depth on individual stones reaches 2.1 m.
The rift is furnished with two pairs of gates.
105-106
Cheeks
catch Cheeks
characterized by the presence of strong whirlpools, covering the river from the right to the left bank for more than 2/3 of its width. The fastest current near the right bank
106-107
roll Gerasimovskiy
from the mouth of the river Erachimo, down from the right bank, a drying rocky shoal departs along which an underwater stone ridge extends to the ship's passage into the riverbed.
Along the left bank there are also coastal stones
121-123,3
Below the Great Threshold (1926)
big threshold
formed by rocky ledges extending into the river from the right bank by 210 m, from the left by 180 m, and narrowing the ship's passage to 80-100 m. The current in the rapid at high levels reaches 18-19 km / h
129-130,5
roll Stone
In the upper part of the rift, near the right and left banks, there are separate stones that go into the channel. In the lower part and at the exit from the rift, the right bank has a rocky outcropping
160,3-161,5
Shivera Noginskaya
formed by ridges of pitfalls extending from the right and left banks. The coastal ridge crosses the ship's passage. The smallest depth on the ridge at the design level is 2.6 m.

283,0-285,5
from. Noginsk
Noginsk mine (on the left bank).
The village closed in 2005
In 1982, ~30 km SE of Noginsk, beyond the administrative boundary of the EAO, an underground nuclear explosion was carried out
288
R. Kochumdek (right tributary)
379,5
Mount Ulovnaya (on the left bank).
hayuli catch
At the bottom of the mountain, a large whirlpool (korchaga) is formed with a current from right to left.
In 1964, the depth of the river in the fairway was 36 m here (see the diagram of the formation of the trough above)
398
R. Detykte (left tributary)
416
from. Tutonchany (on the right bank)
R. Tutonchana (right tributary)
437
tract Stone Fighter (left bank)
474,2
R. Chikty (left tributary)
513
R. Korbunchan (right tributary)
533
R. Chiskova (right tributary)
540,3
Shivera Chiskovskaya. In the lower part of the rift, stones are found in the ship's passage. The smallest depth at the design level is 2.2 m. The stones are protected by three milestones.
538,5-541,5
watchtower islands
547-558
from. Uchami (on the right bank)
593
Hektama Island
596,3-598,3
threshold Uchamsky
in low water it is furnished with three white and two red milestones
603,0-604,5
Shivera Uchamskaya
from the left bank to the middle of the river there are separate stones, the depth of which at the design level is 2.2 m.
607,5-608,5
R. Kataramba (left tributary)
In 1981, an underground nuclear explosion was carried out against the mouth of the river on the right bank of the Lower Tunguska
640,7
Iryakta island
652-654,2
island Gagariy
657,7-660,0
ship island
677,3-677,9
R. Taimura (left tributary)
682,3
R. Vivi (right tributary)
(here at the mouth in 1926 there was a trading post Vivi)

699
threshold Vivinsky
a narrow ship's passage is formed by a ledge protruding into the river from the left bank against the lower part of Zayachiy Island (702-704.3 km). Below the ledge are two rocky islands flooded at high water levels. On the right, the ship's passage compresses a rocky center located in the tail of the Hare Island. Below are single stones.
700,5-703
R. Exa (right tributary)
718
rock of Aix (on the right bank)
719-720,3
Oneksky roll
A pebbly flooded center presses the ship's passage to the left bank, from which pebble embankment and individual stones narrow it to 100-120 m. There are also individual stones in the riverbed near the tail of the middle.
728-731
R. Yambukan
742,4
Crane Islands
761,3-774
Babkino village (on the right bank).
Employees of the "Shpat" expedition (No. 20) lived in this former village. Spar was mined on the opposite bank of the Lower Tunguska 795
Suslov rocks (on the right bank)
801,7-804,5
tea island
81
R. Ganalchik (left tributary)
819
roll N. Ergatinskiy
A stony corga departs from the right bank, continuing under water into the river to the ship's passage up to 200 m. Below the left bank, a stony corga also extends far into the river. The ship's passage is narrow.
Two underground nuclear explosions (1977 and 1979) were carried out in the area of ​​the rift on the left bank of the Lower Tunguska. The mines are located at a distance of ~300 m from each other.
There are special signs
822-824
camp ("Meteorite") (on the left bank). Here in the late 80s of the twentieth century (a kilometer from the sites of explosions) there was a children's health camp, which used a residential complex in which people who prepared nuclear tests used to live
824
Ergaty Island (Velyachiy)
827-834
from. Nidym (on the right bank)
841
Shivera Nidymskaya
formed by the left-bank island of Nidymsky (840.3-843.1) and from the right bank by a corga with individual stones extending into the river up to 150 m. The ship's passage near the island.
841-842
R. Delingde (right tributary) (First Delinda)
847,6
R. Hektama (left tributary, just above the mouth - lake)
848
R. Arkhip-Balagan (Second Delinda) (right tributary)
851,5
Pebble island
853,5-856,5
R. Delimekit (right tributary)
854,3

R. Potap (Potapovka) (right tributary)
858
manual Uchupchunan (right tributary)
861,2
R. Kochechum (right tributary)
864
p.g.t. Tura. In the low water on the Lower Tunguska (500 meters above the mouth of the Kochechum) there is a pebble center with separately protruding stones. Running channel on the left bank.
864 (866)
Bushmarine Island (~800 m)
868 (870)
R. Kiramki (left tributary)
(at the mouth until 1995 there was a settlement of the expedition "Shpat" (No. 20), which mined Icelandic spar
926,7
rift Sukhorechensky (Osipovsky)
941-944
rock Sukhorechenskaya (on the left bank)
944
Barricade rocks (first Pillars)
(On the left coast)
952-954
Shivera Turka, rock (on the right bank)
R. Turka (left tributary)
1014,6
Hawk Rock (on the left bank)
1050
R. N. Kochechumo (right tributary)
1061,7

R. V. Kochechumo (right tributary)
1075,3
R. Muldaul (left tributary)
1081,5
Scallop rock (on the left bank)
1097-1098
Guskonda Island (with a lake)
1106,5-1109,5
R. Kananda (right tributary)
1118
Lonely cliff (on the left bank)
1126
R. N. Kislokan (left tributary)
1133,5
Cherepovy cliff (on the right bank)
1135
Zalivnoy Island
1136
Kislokan island
1148-1151
R. V. Kislokan (left tributary)
1151,5
from. Kislokan
1152 (1155)

____________________________________________________________________________________________

SOURCE OF INFORMATION AND PHOTO:
Team Nomads
LOWER TUNGUSKA, Yandex: Dictionary of modern geographical names
Resources of surface waters of the USSR: Hydrological knowledge. T. 16. Angara-Yenisei region. Issue. 1. Yenisei / Ed. G. S. Karabaeva. - L .: Gidrometeoizdat, 1967. - 823 p.
Sokolov Chapter 23. Eastern Siberia // Hydrography of the USSR. — 1954.
Great Soviet Encyclopedia // B. A. Vvedensky II. - Moscow: PGK im. Molotov, 08/13/1956. - T. 43. - S. 392-393.

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Doc No. 150 (photocopy of the common notebook)

A diary interview of eyewitnesses of the fall Tunguska meteorite along the N. Tunguska River in July 1965. group: Pape V. E., Vronsky B. I., Boyarkina A. P., Sapozhnikova L., Shifrin V., Tsvetkov V., Chernikov V.

Group Diary

Interviews of eyewitnesses on the river. Lower Tunguska,

July 1965

The composition of the expedition:

Pape V. E. - manager

Vronsky B.I.

Boyarkina A.P.

Sapozhnikova L.

Shirin V.

Tsvetkov V.

Chernikov V.

The diary was written in turn by all the members of the expedition.

Per astera ad astra!

... We arrived in Chechuysk at 5 pm. The cars of the regional consumer union are coming in the morning. They called the head of Irk in Podvoloshino. crew were asked to help with the SOAN expedition vehicle. He promised to send In the meantime, we are doing the first interrogatory samples.

Two old men, very talkative, but not much of a problem. But there is a lot of information about how Gypsies were killed by lightning, about collectivization, etc. …

... By lunchtime - we are in Podvoloshino. A village of two hundred yards. The Lower Tunguska is shallow and narrow - about twenty meters. They are passing through. The village is on the right side, on the left is the forest. We are to the left. The search for Shitik is successful. The forester's father finished making a shitik for himself. It remains to caulk and grind - this is a matter of several hours. agreed to purchase. By the time the team arrives, we'll have time to finish everything. the first polls are successful. Each old man is an outstanding personality, well-read old people write the stories of their lives themselves, remember everything and tell with pleasure. Old women, as a rule, refer to old people. Themselves, they say, illiterate, dark, do not remember anything.

No polls have been conducted here before - this is all the more interesting. They describe the phenomenon very similarly to the well-known survey works ...

... Charging with the peas left in the morning made it possible to reach Gazhenka by six o'clock.

They interviewed two people. They apologized to them for a long time for the trouble and bowed ...

... We arrived at 12 o'clock to the village of Nepa. The first greeters joyfully rushed towards us ... joyfully wagging their tails. "Pshitik", guarded by Volodya, remained at the pier. The rest of the group, led by the captain (Apollo in a cotton tunic, short storm trousers and ski boots on his bare feet) went to the polls. Frightening the inhabitants, they walked in a horde for some time, then, stocking up on guide-fights, they made a voyage in two groups, fishing out information with varying success ...

...How many dead villages along the Tunguska! On high slopes, in picturesque hollows near limestone mountains, there are empty huts. No children, no dogs, no boats on the shore. Dark, empty eye sockets of windows in rickety huts.

Abandoned human habitation always makes a heavy impression on me. I can’t watch when old houses are being destroyed in Moscow: patches of helplessly hanging wallpaper and bricks on a heavy cast-iron crane ball, like blood. And here are entire abandoned villages: Danilovo, Martynovo, Potemino...

... At a good pace, we got to Verkhne-Kalinina and conducted a survey. The old people are very different: some tell willingly and a lot, others are frightened, others say that it is impossible to remember anything at all since then, and if anyone tells something, then all this is a lie. Some of the eyewitnesses died last year, and this once again confirms the timeliness of our route. Soon there will be no people left in these places who remember the Tunguska meteorite...”

...After a three-hour voyage, Preobrazhenka appeared on the left bank - a large village, stretched along the river bank, with one single street. …

We all went to the building of the supreme power of the village - the village council. There was an emergency meeting. Chairman of the village council comrade. Chuvashev, an elderly thin black-haired man, as carefully shaven as the Captain, interrupted the meeting and politely asked how he could be useful. The captain cheerfully and clearly, almost in a military way, illuminated the situation. Joyful surprise was reflected on the faces of those around. The topic of the meeting was completely forgotten. Bar-bars began about the Tunguska meteorite, about a letter sent by Chuvashev in response to a letter from Boyarkina, etc., etc. Chuvashev promised all-round support in all our endeavors. The captain said that he was interested in old men and old ladies, mostly living ones. At the same time, he presented his "credentials" - a document of the Siberian branch of KMET with signatures and a seal. At the sight of the piece of paper, a kind of closed, wary expression appeared on the open face of the chairman of the village council. He looked doubtfully at all of us. “Why are they presenting documents?” It was written on his face, “Are they crooks? An honest person will not show documents... And, again, they are interested in living and dead old women.” Chichikov remembered, and the chairman slowly began to read the paper, peering at every letter, especially in the signatures and seals. Unable to overcome his doubts, he handed the document to the secretary of the party organization. It was still a relatively young, well-fed, unshooted sparrow, who removed the burden of responsibility from the shoulders of the chairman, readily providing the Captain with a list of elders of both sexes in the diocese subordinate to the village council. Just as quickly the question of daily bread was resolved. Travelers ate the entire supply of bread captured in Podvoloshino, hoping for the Preobrazhenskaya bakery. The latter, in connection with the move to another room, was inactive. For distinguished travelers, an extraordinary baking of bread was organized, which was to be received on the morning of the 21st. Then the team, breaking into couples, went to conduct interviews and interrogations of eyewitnesses of the Tunguska Diva. As always, old men and women shamelessly confused the circumstances of the phenomenon that took place 57 years ago. However, being peasants, all as one claimed that a sheaf of fire was flying. Only one, a carpenter by profession, observed the flight of the “log”. A wise phrase was uttered by one of the respondents: "Do not really believe the testimony of eyewitnesses who, having forgotten the facts, are simply fantasizing." He is probably not quite right. The old men treated the interrogators with great affection, it was so pleasant for them to return to the days of their distant youth, and they willingly answered our questions. ..

... We quickly swam to the village. Moga, where several eyewitnesses of the Tunguska diva lived out their lives, who willingly shared with us their memories distorted in the distorted mirror of time. Only one old woman, who looked suspiciously at the crew members sent for interrogation, said that she had instructions not to disclose this secret information to strangers. This instruction was given to her by the uncle of the famous researcher of the Tunguska meteorite Viktor Konenkin, a teacher of mathematics in Vanavara...

... After lunch we came to Yerema - a small village on the low right bank ... In the village, as elsewhere, people are very friendly and helpful. I was a little embarrassed by the form of “interrogation” of eyewitnesses. In my opinion, Valentin Tsvetkov is too quickly trying to take the bull, that is, the old eyewitness, by the horns (remember - do not remember, you saw - you did not see, you heard - you did not hear).

Despite my shirking, I had to interrogate three old women. For some reason, they are all extremely frivolous and do not remember anything ...

bugorkan

Kaplin Dmitry Ivanovich , (82)

Lived in Narkaya - a population. point on Chon stands on Mukai, flows into Vilyui. It was daytime. sat. Big helluva noise. We think it's not thunder, but something else. I didn't see it myself. it was a clear hot day. Like thunder, but heard differently. Long goes, goes, further, further. Flight direction (according to sound) 215 0 . Thunder spawn point 150 0 . Angular height 60 0 .

Temporarily lives in Bugorkan, polled 18 km higher on the mowing. Permanently lives in Nakanna.

Caplin Spiridon Nichol . (!882)

Luka, below Nakanna 30-40 km.

There were ten thunders. Fell asleep in the morning. Father said that the lightning went to the bottom, where the sun is setting. Nothing flew, only rumbles through, at the end of June, at 5 o'clock. It differs from thunder, it goes and rumbles.

Kaplina Anastasia Konst . (1884).

Toykhaya - Yakutskaya - on the Chon. I heard that everything rattled during the day. The old woman rowed hay in the mowing, heard thunder. Didn't see the body. Everything thundered.

Gromov Mikh. Ivanovich , 1899

Lived in Lavrushka in 1908. He doesn't remember anything.

Wichogir Avdotya Illarion . (80 years).

Toyhae.

remembers nothing .

It thundered during the day. I didn’t hear it myself, according to the stories. Like fire flew down the Chona. She was at home, probably asleep. It was a long time ago, before morning.

... By lunchtime we are in Bugorkan. After a light tea in the house-zootechnics - interviews with his grandfather - a handsome Yakut in flasks, gray-haired, with a high-cheeked face. The head is tied with a scarf. 85 years old, thickset - requires a hangover. Then 4 more old Yakut women - with pipes, wrinkled, do not understand anything in Russian - used the services of a Yakut livestock specialist. The old women, as always, are almost unknown - they don’t remember anything or are afraid to remember. Well, here are all the eyewitnesses...

Salatkin Sergey Borisovich . 1920

From the mouth of the Nepa 350 km wuyang.

According to the stories of the parents, it looked like a bell in shape, it shone. And then the old woman was carrying water, she saw, she threw water and laundry. “The sun is falling”, and he runs out and says - “where, why are you, you fool, the sun is in place.” Mother heard a noise, then explosions.

The village of Bur - 15 km below Uyan - 1.5 km above the village of Bur - a hole with a diameter of 10 m has been punched in the river, there is smoke. Miller saw. The source of the Tira is a tributary of the Lena - the nomadic Evenks heard thunder. There was a storehouse at 8 km. Thought that<>. Ran in the morning - everything is fine. From the Podkamennaya Tunguska, the Evenks say that the forests were shaking. They shouted that there would be a doomsday - they quit smoking so that they would not be punished.