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How to transmit a wifi signal over a long distance: network examples. How to increase wifi range

With connection difficulties, network reliability, stability and transmission speed in Wi-Fi networks, each of the owners of mobile devices is familiar: smartphones, tablets, laptops, TVs and other household appliances. And indeed, “wireless freedom”, which is how the abbreviation Wireless Fidelity is deciphered, seems to be as it is, but it seems to be like it is not. Being in the coverage area of Wi-Fi, you are suddenly surprised at the amazingly low data transfer rate over the network, frequent breaks and other things that are simply infuriating. And especially nervous people, tired of a terrible connection, ready to gouge their device in a fit of rage.

And everyone blames the Wi-Fi connection, and absolutely does not take into account the problems with the local or backbone provider. In part they are right. All the advantages of Wi-Fi can be crossed out with just poor communication, interference on the air, and obstacles in the path of the radio signal. And here the question arises in general about the performance of Wi-Fi, and one can only dream of a “gigabit network over the air”. Below I will try to explain why there are problems with Wi-Fi communication and how they can be dealt with using the example of expanding the zone of stable Wi-Fi signal reception in everyday life at a specific facility. And at the same time, in some places, I will state in an understandable form and concisely the theory of Wi-Fi networks.

What prevents good wireless reception?

The first thing that comes to mind is distance. Indeed, the farther the receiver is from the source, and in our case, from the access point or router, the weaker the signal. And the weaker it is, the worse the reception, at least in the general case, this statement is true. But not only the distance impairs reception. Radio waves, including Wi-Fi network signals, travel from a single source that must be picked up by a receiver. In other words, the radiated wave must pass through the receiver antenna. And if there are various objects on the way between the receiver, your mobile, and the transmitter, your router? In this case, the wave can: go around the object, pass through the object, be reflected from other objects and reach the receiver in the reflected form. But the frequency of Wi-Fi is too high to go around any large objects on the way, so there are only two options left: bounce off objects and pass through them.

And here it should be remembered that now WI-Fi operates in two radio bands. The first and most massive is 2.4 GHz, and the second, the newfangled 5 GHz (although there is a standard for a higher frequency, for example, ad, it operates at a frequency of 60 GHz and is designed to communicate at a distance of no more than 10 meters and only with line of sight) . The 2.4 GHz frequency passes through objects better, while the 5 GHz frequency reflects better from them. Therefore, if you have the task of “breaking through” two concrete walls from the kitchen where your Wi-Fi source is installed to the living room, then Wi-Fi at a frequency of 2.4 GHz will work better than at 5 GHz. On the other hand, if your task is to cover only one room or a labyrinth of metal with access, then it is better to think about a 5 GHz network.

In addition to objects that interfere with reception, it is always necessary to remember about interference. For radio networks, interference can appear out of nowhere and disappear into nowhere, more precisely from the most unexpected sources, but networks with frequencies of 2.4 GHz are especially susceptible to interference, since 5 GHz waves pass through objects worse, and an ordinary room in an ordinary house already well isolates your access point from the harmful effects of interference. The source of interference can be both faulty microwave ovens and other electrical equipment operating in an emergency mode. But the biggest hindrance that awaits any city dweller is Wi-Fi networks of neighbors. In urban areas, especially in residential areas, the density of Wi-Fi networks is so high that sometimes, during peak hours, wireless mice and Bluetooth headsets stop working. The air at 2.4 GHz can be so busy that radio communication is no longer reliable. The mouse starts jumping around the screen, and there are constant sound distortions in the headset. I described the situation in detail in my article about the "eccentricities" of MGTS, which decided to put a Wi-Fi router in every apartment.

The power of your Wi-Fi router or Wi-Fi access point can also seriously affect the quality of service of that Wi-Fi. Signal transmission without wires implies not only its processing upon receipt or transmission, but also encryption. Both operations, coupled with the removal of errors, are not a trivial task and require not hefty computing resources. Now imagine that you have loaded your hotspot by downloading the next series via the Torrent network, and in parallel, someone else is trying to play online games or watch YouTube. A High-End household router from five to seven years ago does not cope very well with such a load, and here the load increases due to the need to use radio signal processing. In such cases, the device may simply freeze or overheat to a significant temperature and automatically reduce performance to avoid damage to the equipment.

I well remember the wailing of a small hotel owner in Italy who spent 12,000 euros to set up a wireless network in his hotel with five floors and twelve small rooms. Yes, he bought professional equipment, yes, everything was set up for him, and his system issued individual passwords to each of the guests in the form of a check. But in general, the system worked very badly. One of the access points hung, and the others turned out to be overloaded. In general, the dissatisfaction of the guests was expressed only by the quality of Wi-Fi, but their dissatisfaction significantly reduced the rating of the hotel itself. So even professional solutions are not always able to provide high-quality Wi-Fi coverage, not to mention home devices.

So what is the average person to do then? My advice is to use only and exclusively wired connection wherever possible. And about what to do when Wi-Fi is required and without it, read below.

Solutions

I try to follow my advice and where possible I use a wired LAN connection. But the amount of mobile electronics, numerous smartphones, smart watches, tablets and other devices are steadily creeping into life, and in a village house about two floors, the problem with Wi-Fi coverage has risen to its full height. The first floor of the house is built of stone with reinforced concrete ceilings, and the second is wooden. The roof of the popular metal tile crowns the entire structure. The ZyXEL Giga II access point is installed on the second floor in the geometric center of the building and at a height of about 40 centimeters from the floor. The chosen place for installation is optimal, Wi-Fi coverage is present at an acceptable level in the entire habitable area of the building. Moreover, those parts of the infield that are not shielded by the roof also allow the use of mobile devices with a Wi-Fi connection.

But despite the good location of the access point, there are also blind spots in the house, which are very annoying. There are many places in the garage where the Wi-Fi signal is formally caught, but you can’t check your mail or open a page there. Too many mistakes. In the street gazebo, too, not everything is in order. The signal is present there, but you can work on the network only in strictly defined places, a step to the side and communication becomes impossible. Something needs to be done about this, as there is nothing more frustrating and frustrating than an unreliable internet connection.

Polarization

Surprisingly, few Wi-Fi users, when trying to improve the quality of the signal, remember the polarization of the signal. But Wi-Fi has it. Household routers and access points mainly use vertical signal polarization. Industrial, designed for professional use, operate with two polarizations at once: vertical and horizontal.

It is important that both the transmitter and the receiver have the same polarization. If your router gives out vertical polarization, and your mobile has only one antenna and it is located horizontally, then the signal will be weak and errors will constantly fall. It is enough to turn the mobile to normal and the situation is immediately corrected. To combat the problem of incorrect polarization, manufacturers of good mobile devices use several antennas located at different angles at once, which minimizes the problem of orientation in space. However, you should still check your device's antennas, if available, and align them vertically according to the manufacturer's instructions. And if the antennas used on the device are removable, then check the quality of their fastening to the body. Sometimes it happens that they are simply stuck into the sockets and forgotten to be screwed on.

Yes, do not forget about the antenna pattern. Not everyone has it in the form of a sphere, the position of the antenna in this case greatly affects the signal level.

Change location

If we are already talking about the location of antennas and devices, then it would not be bad to mention the location of the very source of Wi-Fi radio waves. It is desirable that nothing touches the antennas. Do not close the router in a metal safe, it is advisable to put it in the center of the covered area. If your floor plan resembles the letter “W”, then the Wi-Fi router is best placed in the aisle near the central leg, and not in the geometric center. So the radio signal will have a better chance of passing through reflection, rather than penetrating through reinforced concrete.

In other words, it is worthwhile to approach the choice of the location of the router creatively and meaningfully, and sometimes it is better to spend a little time on test installations of the router in different places, checking the quality of reception in all corners. Keep in mind that the shorter the path to each of the points in your room and the less obstacles there are in the path of the radio signal, the better the signal and quality of Wi-Fi will be. And don't forget that Wi-Fi involves the exchange of a radio signal in both directions, so the location of your mobile devices also matters. Sometimes it's easier to move half a meter to the side with your favorite tablet than to block a lot of technical devices to improve the quality of signal reception at a specific point in the room.

Change channel or switch to high frequency

At the moment, most types of Wi-Fi equipment, one way or another, operate at a frequency of 2.4 GHz. This is due to the greater penetration of this frequency. But the air at 2.4 GHz is very crowded with both household equipment and Wi-Fi access points. Many manufacturers of access points and routers implement in their devices the function of automatically switching to the most suitable channel for work. Those. to the channel with the fewest registered other access points. But far from always this algorithm works out as it is required and Wi-Fi is distributed purely and exclusively on the 1st channel. And if a dozen more networks operate on the same channel in the nearest district, then you won’t have to wait for a stable connection with good bandwidth. The fact is that often the channel selection algorithm works only at the moment of initialization of the access point and does not at all track changes that occur on the air after a week or month of work.

Therefore, it is recommended to analyze the congestion of the air at a time when you feel discomfort in the Wi-Fi network. And try to look for a free channel. Channels 1.6 and 11 are considered the best choice. Since they do not overlap in frequency with adjacent ones, the access point operating on this channel will be able to provide full speed. However, if there are already a lot of people working on these channels, then it makes sense to choose the least loaded channel. Yes, most likely, it will intersect with others, neighboring ones, but in general the situation will be better than trying to work on a channel in which other networks are already “sitting”.

You can use a regular smartphone as a device for analyzing channel congestion, just install the appropriate program on it. In some cases, a similar study can be carried out using the access point itself. The channel is configured on the access point or in the Wi-Fi router by changing the corresponding setting in the Wi-Fi settings section.

But if there are very few free channels, especially when there are none at all, which is quite consistent with reality in large metropolitan areas, then a network at a frequency of 5 GHz can come to the rescue. Firstly, the penetration capability of the 5 GHz frequency is noticeably lower than that of 2.4 GHz, which means that even if the neighbors are hung with 5 GHz access points, their signal will most likely not reach your reinforced concrete cell. And secondly, there are much more channels at a frequency of 5 GHz than at a frequency of 2.4 GHz. But for successful use of 5 GHz, both the access point and the terminal equipment must be able to work on it. And there should not be reinforced concrete obstacles between the receiver and the transmitter, otherwise the increased frequency will not give any advantage.

Other antennas

Characters unfamiliar with amateur radio will, at the first opportunity, try to screw more powerful and larger antennas to their access point, in the hope of improving the signal situation. But no, I tested the theory of antenna replacement in real conditions and came to the conclusion that an improved antenna with a normal standard one will not give any advantage. The thing is that manufacturers are also not stupid and calculate their standard antennas based on the frequencies used and the powers of the transmitter and receiver at the access point. And a simple increase in size is not enough. Only pre-calculated and coordinated with the transmitter, antennas will save the needy in this case.

However, the reception quality situation can still be improved by replacing the antennas. For example, by changing the type of antenna and carefully calculating the new antenna for those operating frequencies, including even the channel on which it is planned to be used. Antennas can be spread over a greater distance, thereby trying to get rid of obstacles that shield the signal. But here, not everything is so smooth. The cables going to the antennas will “eat up” part of the useful power and as a result it may turn out that it has only become worse, not better. But the use of directional antennas can save the situation. In such antennas, all power is directed in exactly one direction, and the use of such an antenna will improve the situation with sites remote from the access point, but only when it is strictly in the antenna beam. Roughly speaking, a directional antenna is useful if you want to connect two local networks located at some distance from each other and without using wires. For example, if a desire suddenly arose, supported by Yaroslavl or the Bolshoi Theater per month, to feed a neighbor in a neighboring area with the Internet. By the way, you can look for antennas not only from cunning Chinese, domestic manufacturers are also engaged in the production of quite adequate devices.

But you should not play with the power of the transmitter. Radio is not free. All its frequencies are strictly regulated and their use requires a license and permission from the competent authorities. For private traders and organizations, concessions have been made, but only when using strictly defined frequencies and transmitter powers. Some crazy hands may want to build a unique amplifier or buy a ready-made one. You can collect and buy something, but the use of such a miracle can threaten with minor troubles, ranging from a fine to the removal of equipment.

MIMO

MIMO (Multiple Input Multiple Output) technology, based on the use of adaptive antenna arrays, entered the commercial market not so long ago, but was not somehow promoted by marketers and did not enter the minds of ordinary users like a jagged harpoon. The technology is designed to increase the bandwidth of the wireless transmission network through the use of multiple antennas. In addition to increasing the throughput, due to the diversity of the antennas in space, the reception quality also improves.

But MIMO only works starting from the Wi-Fi n standard. And it is not enough to use only an access point with MIMO, the terminal equipment must also be able to work with MIMO technology, otherwise the transfer rate will be only 150 Mbps. Yes, yes, everything is exactly as they write on the boxes of modern routers. 150 Mbit with one antenna, 300 with two, and so on, depending on the manufacturer's imagination. But to achieve such a channel speed is possible only with the appropriate equipment on the receiving side.

Yes, and I did not just write about the channel speed. Those numbers that are written by manufacturers on the boxes do not mean at all that you will have files flying over the network at such a speed. No, this is the speed of the physical channel into which everything that is contained in the Wi-Fi protocol is stuffed, and then everything from all the following levels, ending with the file exchange protocol. Yes, the copy speed will be slower than the link speed, even under ideal reception conditions. In general, the use of MIMO to improve coverage will bring little benefit, although some therapeutic effect from the technology will be observed.

Repeater and WDS

With the help of additional equipment, you can increase the Wi-Fi coverage area. This is done in the most competent way using specialized Wi-Fi access points that connect to the local network via Ethernet or any other cable technology. Such access points are a professional solution for covering large areas in offices and enterprises. But they cost accordingly, so we will not consider them further at all, since the budget for the deployment of such systems is clearly beyond the limits available to the average consumer. Even though such points are capable of seamless client switching between points, we will still leave them out of the study due to their excessively high cost. And back to what is available to the layman.

And for an ordinary consumer, there are already two ways to easily and without unnecessary wires to increase the reliable coverage of a Wi-Fi network. We are talking about Wi-Fi repeaters (Repeater) and Wi-Fi repeaters WDS (Wireless Distribution System). And here, a whole heap of incomprehensible terms and explanations of specialists who are unsure of themselves fall on an ordinary, not savvy in networks and network technologies, burgher. Essentially, both options do the same thing:

Connect to the main router via Wi-Fi.
Distribute Wi-Fi using your access point.

And it would seem that there is no difference between the two methods. Nevertheless, it is present, although very unsteady. Initially, it was assumed that a regular repeater can only connect to the main router, otherwise, if it connects to another repeater (or repeater), it will not be able to correctly build a route outside for Internet access. But in practice, clients still access the Internet, even if there are a number of intermediate repeaters between them. Further, the repeater cannot give out addresses of the internal network. For the main router, it looks like a simple client, and no one gives out several addresses at once to a simple client. But in practice, addresses are issued, and in some cases, repeater clients are full members of the local network with normal addresses of this network. To solve the two problems described above, the concept of WDS (not to be confused with WPS) was created. But WDS, due to the lack of a single standard, only works properly in the ecosystem of one manufacturer, so an attempt to connect TP-Link to D-Link using WDS may fail. Plus, WDS requires the same encryption and the same session key on all access points connected to the network using WDS. But the network name (SSID) can be different, as in the case of a repeater.

Some time ago, I described a simple case of increasing network coverage with a TP-Link repeater. The manufacturer does not indicate anywhere whether his device supports WDS connection or not, although such an item is present in the settings. Apparently all because of some problems in the compatibility of the implementation of WDS in equipment from different manufacturers. In any case, even if WDS does not start, there will still be access to the network, since the Repeater mode will remain.

In general, the use of both the repeater function and the repeater with WDS technology is the prerogative of not only specialized Wi-Fi Extenders, all more or less modern Wi-Fi routers already support the functions of not only a simple repeater, but also a WDS repeater (not to mention others modes such as Access Point or Bridge). This happens for the reason that a modern router is a computer on which certain and specific software is installed. This software works, in most cases, under the control of a slightly modified Linux system, which opens up wide opportunities for migrating software modules not only between models of the same manufacturer, but even between devices from different manufacturers. A striking example of such polymorphism is the OpenWRT project. In general, the use of Wi-Fi Extenders is fully justified where it is required to increase the coverage area of a Wi-Fi network at no extra cost, although instead of a regular extender, you can take an inexpensive router with the Repeater or Repeater WDS function.

But each barrel of honey has its own spoonful of cranberries. In household devices, routers or Wi-Fi Extenders (extenders or "amplifiers" of the Wi-Fi signal), only one Wi-Fi interface is used. More precisely, only one chip is installed there, capable of operating only on one channel of one band (2.4 GHz or 5 GHz) per unit time. And any attempt to use such devices to increase Wi-Fi coverage will lead to an increase in air traffic on the working channel and a general decrease in the speed of Wi-Fi. After all, all data, from the router to the extender and from the extender to the consumer, is transmitted over the same channel. And Wi-Fi in one unit of time can serve only one request. Either receive data from the router, or transfer it to the client. The drop in network performance in this case can be 50 percent or more, it all depends on the network load, the number of clients and the number of extenders between the client and the root router. All of the above is also true for routers acting as an extender, the technology does not change depending on the type of equipment.

To normalize the performance situation, you can use extenders with two chips and capable of operating in the same range on several channels at once (see the option with channel diversity) or dual-band devices that are trained to communicate with the router at a frequency of 5 GHz, and increase coverage at a frequency of 2.4 GHz or vice versa. In this case, a catastrophic drop in performance will not be observed, only the performance of the extender would be enough to service all requests passing through it.

So, with a wireless increase in coverage, expect a general decrease in Wi-Fi network performance and disconnections when reconnecting from one point to another. Although the last point is highly dependent on the client. Some clients can switch very quickly between points, while others will cling to the old one with all their might and be desperately stupid when trying to connect to the new one. Although the gaps themselves are not so terrible, since the client software, designed to work on mobile devices, and you will not move others back and forth, was designed to work with an unreliable transmission medium, and hence they always have buffering.

Wired AccessPoint

But the best way to expand the coverage of the network, I can call the use of a wired connection of all access points. A cable Ethernet connection is extended from the main router to all wireless access points. The result is a network with a developed topology and no drop in performance in the Wi-Fi zone. But in order to avoid a drop in performance, and in general, work in a Wi-Fi network was comfortable, you need to follow the following simple recommendations.

The signal overlap of access points should be about 30 percent so that there are no problem areas where there is no signal at all. But at the same time, there should not be zones where the signal strength from two or more access points is too high. In such zones, some, not the most reasonable, Wi-Fi clients may not work properly at all, they will constantly connect to one access point or another. You can find out the signal levels using a regular smartphone with an installed application that displays the signal level, or with a laptop and running the ping command in a loop on the gateway of your network. And you can adjust the coverage either by moving access points relative to each other, or by changing their power, if such a function is available.

It is recommended to separate neighboring points into different channels so that there is no mutual interference. If the territories served by access points are small and constitute single rooms, then it makes sense to think about access points operating only at a frequency of 5 GHz. Of course, all clients must be able to work on this frequency.

To facilitate switching between access points when moving between them, it is also recommended to set the same access point SSID, identical passphrases and encryption types. Otherwise, switching may take longer than when the specified conditions are met.

Yes, you will have to pull a separate cable to each access point. Yes, these are additional costs, and yes, in some cases it is completely impossible to run a cable to the installation site of the access point. But only using a wired access point will allow you to get as close as possible to the professional result of increasing Wi-Fi coverage. Although, in particularly difficult conditions, it is quite acceptable to combine wired and wireless methods to increase coverage.

Transition to AC

Some network experts do not forget to mention the transition to the relatively new Wi-Fi standard described by IEEE 802.11ac. They say in this standard there is a so-called beamformer (Beamforming) or spatial filtering (spatial filtering). But regardless of the name, the essence of this technology is to change the power emitted in different directions.

An ordinary Wi-Fi antenna installed on a router radiates a signal in all directions with a single power. And in the ac standard, it became possible to change the power pattern depending on the need. So, for example, if a Wi-Fi client is located on a specific side of the router, and there is no one in other directions, then it makes sense to redirect all the power exactly in the direction where the client is located. Which increases the reliable coverage of Wi-Fi working according to the ac standard.

But here it should be borne in mind that beamforming appeared for the n standard (beamforming occurs on an array of MIMO antennas). However, it has not been standardized and in practice there is incompatibility between devices from different manufacturers. Moreover, beamforming technology only works for 5 GHz, which greatly limits its use for direct coverage enhancement purposes.

Switching to the ac standard, of course, is worth it, but you won’t expect a special increase in coverage from it. And not all clients are supported by the latest trends.

Let's try in practice

Having become acquainted with the theory a little, it is time to move on to practice. In my village house, one Wi-Fi Extender is already working, which acts as a wireless adapter and feeds the Internet to a smart TV from LG. It’s not that LG’s technology doesn’t know how to extract the Internet from the air at all, but it does it quite somehow clumsy. Therefore, connecting smart TVs from LG to your network is only and exclusively via cable. At least with the use of a Wi-Fi extender operating in the wireless Wi-Fi adapter mode.

It remains to solve the problem of sustainable reception in the garage and in the gazebo. The problem with the garage is that it is long enough and like a house with a metal roof. In order for the signal from the router from the second floor to reach the garage, it needs to tangentially break through one, and in some moments two, reinforced concrete floors and masonry. In some corners of the garage, the signal from the router is extinguished until the network is completely inoperable.

With a gazebo, the situation is slightly different. The metal roof of the house descends slightly below the ceiling between the first and second floors. And even if you install a router on the floor of the second floor, it still reliably blocks the signal towards the gazebo. The layout does not allow installing a router on the ground floor, but you will need to bring a few more twisted-pair cables to the router to connect other equipment, which will cause even more problems due to laying the cable in the stone part of the house, where you will have to run cables in an unknown way to science.

Therefore, I chose the option of increasing coverage and improving its quality using wired access points. To do this, a separate twisted pair cable was laid in the garage, from the nearest switch (switch), and already from the garage, underground, another end of the twisted pair was laid to the gazebo. Accordingly, I have determined two installation points for wired access points: a garage and a gazebo. Moreover, the garage is not heated and is heated only by the heat of a gas boiler, and the gazebo in general is open air.

We implement on Tenda

Initially, I had my eye on the Tenda N301 routers because of their unique low cost. Each of the two copies cost me about $12. Even if none of my undertaking would have worked out, it would not have been such a pity. Each N301 router is cheaper than other Wi-Fi extenders and routers from other manufacturers. And all this in full compliance with local legislation and without having to wait a month for the device to arrive from China.

The N301 is uniquely simple. On board, it has two interestingly shaped antennas, one WAN port with speeds up to 100 Mbps and three LAN ports with the same performance. The case of the device is miniature, and it does not heat up at all during operation. The manufacturer promises a maximum Wi-Fi transmission speed of 300 Mbps with support for the n protocol, it is obvious that this speed is achieved using MIMO technology. The device is assembled around a SoC (System on Crystal) class chip from Broadcom BCM5357. The chip was specially made for the production of various routers and compatible devices in terms of functions and contains almost everything that is required for the operation of the router. The manufacturer only has to come up with a case, solder the LED indicators, and upgrade the firmware for themselves. And that's it! By the way, not only Tenda uses such chips, but also other manufacturers (Belkin, Netgear, Asus, D-Link) for their devices of the lower price range.

It’s just a little puzzling that the router will distribute at a speed of 300 Mbps over the air if any of its wired ports gives out a maximum of 100 Mbps? Wasted money again? In addition, Tenda positions its device as very easy to set up. Well, let's see. The specifications of the router state that it supports WDS and it does support it. But our task is to turn Tenda N301 into a wired access point, and not force the air with unnecessary traffic.

Due to the simplification of the router settings, the manufacturer simply threw out everything that does not apply to the declared characteristics. It does not have a separate bridge or access point mode. Therefore, I had to play a little to turn the Chinese miracle into what was required of it.

So. Initially, we set up an access point. We set the network SSID, encryption type, passphrase in exact accordance with what is set on the main router. Then we stay at the fork. Since the n301 does not have an access point function, it can work in two modes: a regular router or a switch. To work as a regular router, we connect an Ethernet cable from the main router to the WAN port. In this case, all clients connected to the n301 will be in a separate, isolated from the main network. Yes, they will be able to access the Internet, but it will no longer be possible to connect to devices on the n301 network from the rest of the local network. For me, this turned out to be a significant disadvantage, and I tried to implement another option.

To enable switch mode (switch), moreover, unmanaged, but distributing Wi-Fi, you need to turn off the internal DHCP client in the Tenda settings and connect the Ethernet cable from the main router to port 1 (do not confuse it with the WAN port). In this case, the device starts to work exactly as required. It acts as a wired access point, and at the same time as a three-port unmanaged switch. Clients connected via cable or Wi-Fi to the n301 are accessible from the rest of the network and can access the Internet themselves.

But this solution has a small drawback. The router turns into an unmanageable piece of plastic, silicon, copper and hot melt adhesive. It is no longer possible to connect to it, it is not visible on the network, it does not receive an IP address and does not exist at all. But nevertheless it works. It works until you need to change your passphrase or take some other action that requires you to change the settings on Tenda. This turn did not suit me, and I turned towards devices from ZyXEL.

We implement on Zyxel

In the line of ZuXEL routers there are also inexpensive routers, which, of course, are more expensive than Tenda N301, but still cheaper than individual wired access points and Wi-Fi Extenders. Moreover, when buying a full-fledged router and turning it into a wired access point, you also get a switch for several ports along the way. But my head router is just ZyXEL, the famous Giga II. So the choice of the second reincarnation fell on the ZuXEL brand for a reason.

The Taiwanese company Zyksel was born already in 1989, and since 1992 it has an official representative office in Russia. Therefore, the company's specialists are familiar with domestic specifics firsthand. And the support service from the Russian division of the company will be the envy of many more eminent manufacturers. So, to expand the network, I chose ZyXEL Keenetic Start and ZyXEL Keenetic Start II. The layman will note that Start and Start II differ in the number of antennas, the maximum transmission speed over Wi-Fi, for Start II it is 300 Mbps, versus 150 Mbps for just Start, and the number of wired ports, 5 for just Start and 2 at Start II, and there and there the network is purely 100 Mbps. And again, we are faced with a situation where the wired interface of the Start II is three times slower than the wireless one. Marketing is a great power, although, most likely, when you connect to Start II, you will be able to pump up the transmission to network 100 Mbps. If you dig a little deeper, then the devices also differ in filling, they have different processors and different amounts of memory. In general, Start II will be more powerful than Start. But for my purposes, Start is perfect for installation in the garage, and Start II in the gazebo.

Both devices run the proprietary NDM operating system and are configured identically. True, the sturgeon with Start will have to be cut, all the modules simply do not fit into it because of the modest amount of memory, although we only need repeater modules and cloud connection support. The latter is necessary for remote control of the router from a mobile phone. Many parameters cannot be controlled through the application, and even when switching to wired access point mode, the ability to control the router from the application, when not connected through it, disappears. Nevertheless, cloud management does not take up much memory and will not be superfluous.

So, first of all, we update the firmware in the router. This simple procedure is performed directly from the web interface. It is advisable to install the latest stable version and do not forget about the access point module. Then, if desired, we connect cloud management, bind your smartphone with the installed application to the router. Next, switch the router to access point mode. After that, we set up Wi-Fi, not forgetting about the SSID, the channel (different from the channel on the router), we select the signal strength. At the output, we get a managed switch with five ports with a managed access point. We connect the Ethernet cable from the main router to any port of the newly created access point, but I used the WAN port so as not to get confused later.

In work, the resulting network is much softer than using Tenda. Well, firstly, you can go to Keenetic Start, a separate IP address is assigned to the access point, moreover, it can be seen as a link in the interface of the main router. Secondly, switching to the access point is faster. With the Tenda option, I had to go to the farthest corner of the garage and only then did my smartphone switch to Tenda, otherwise it tried to keep in touch with the main router.

That's all. I can't say that I didn't like Tenda N301 routers. Still, ZyXEL is much more pleasant to work with. I have no doubts about the reliability of both routers, because modern electronics, especially as simple as a router, are very, very reliable. There are many more errors in firmware in routers than there are glitches in hardware.

Conclusion

And in conclusion, a few words about the environment in which routers have to work. I already mentioned that one router will be installed in a garage without heating, and the other one will be outside. All household routers are declared as operating at temperatures not lower than 0 degrees, and not higher than 40. But in reality, the critical parameter here is not temperature, but humidity. When the router is working, it heats up slightly and in some cases moisture may condense on its board. Which leads, sooner or later, to the failure of the router. Therefore, in high humidity conditions, such as outdoors, where relative humidity is often under 100 percent, the router must be installed in a plastic box or box. I know cases when routers worked for years on the street, being installed in a cardboard box pasted over with adhesive tape. Remember, any shelter that is rainproof, more or less airtight, and with the smallest heat source inside, will create a sufficient microclimate for the safe operation of the router. As for the garage, the humidity there is regulated by heat from a working boiler, and it never exceeds dangerous limits. Moisture does not condense.

Another risk factor is electromagnetic impulses from lightning discharges. Lightning striking nearby causes some RCDs to trip, as the electromagnetic pulse can be so strong that it will induce current in the wiring to the level of RCD tripping. Household routers, as a rule, are not equipped with protection against lightning discharges, and lightning can cause "burnout" of both individual sections of the network and all network equipment. Alas, even disconnecting from the high voltage network will not help here, since dangerous voltage can appear, hover, in Ethernet cables. This is especially important given the length of data transmission networks. And even a cable buried in the ground may not help. But in this case, when a dangerous voltage arises in an Ethernet cable from a lightning discharge that can disable network equipment, then other electrical equipment is guaranteed to suffer, since power circuits will be subjected to no less electromagnetic shock than data cables.

To protect against lightning effects, it is reasonable to use various kinds of protection for data transmission networks, this is especially true for overhead lines. It is also reasonable to use a shielded cable, securely covered with a metal sheath, which must not be forgotten to be grounded, protecting against induction of currents in the data cores. It will also be useful to protect against a thunderstorm of the power grid. It is advisable to use at least a conventional UZM that can disconnect consumers from the network when the threshold voltage is exceeded. By the way, not only thunderstorms are dangerous for overhead lines, but also weather conditions that can electrify the cable with the accumulation of a significant electrostatic charge on it. Such conditions include dry snow or a dust storm, when individual particles rub against the cable, like a woolen scarf on an ebonite stick.

How to increase the range of a WiFi router? Nobody likes when pages on the Internet open too slowly, streaming media cannot be broadcast, and the WiFi signal periodically drops out or forms "dead" zones. Such problems simply drive people crazy around the world, where a stable Internet has become as much a necessity as a person's primary needs. The simple tips below can help boost your WiFi signal.

Possible signal obstructions

The most obvious problem is the distance between the computer and the router, because there is an optimal range within which the wireless signal can travel. If, as conceived by the user, the network must cover a larger area than the router technically can cover, or WiFi must bypass corners and penetrate walls, then the signal quality may suffer greatly or it will not reach its goal at all.

Interference from other users is also a big problem, especially in densely populated areas. Signals from other wireless networks and electronics can adversely affect speed and distance. Interference is caused by telephone systems and other wireless devices. Fortunately, there are already special home phones that use the DECT 6.0 standard, which does not interfere with Wi-Fi.

There is always a chance that uninvited guests can connect to the router signal. It makes sense to visit your router's admin interface periodically to check how many devices are currently connected. Or use a network analyzer to see if there are unknown devices on the network. You should not use an open network, it should always be closed. It is best to use WPA2 security settings because WEP is much weaker. Be sure to come up with a complex password that cannot be guessed.

Improving signal quality and distance

You can increase the signal range by updating the software for the router. Router manufacturers usually strive to improve their products and release useful enhancements to them. Depending on the router model, the firmware update process may vary. Most routers (for example, the well-known TP-Link) have an update process built right into the administration interface. As a result, all user intervention is reduced to a banal click on the "Update" button. Some older models may require the user to independently find the firmware on the developer's website and install it. This is rather inconvenient, but necessary.

A lot will depend on where the router is located. As you know, not all rooms and open spaces are the same in terms of volume, structure and the presence of obstacles. Many users try to put the router away (for example, in a closet or on a windowsill). But this approach is wrong, because the router needs open spaces. It should be kept away from obstacles.

If the router is equipped with external antennas, you need to make sure that they are in a vertical position. If possible, you need to move the router higher, for example, hang it on the wall. If this cannot be done on your own, then it is recommended to put it on a tall cabinet or at least on a table. There are special programs that can visualize the coverage area. Examples include Heatmapper or inSSIDer. These programs will show the user the strengths and weaknesses of the WiFi network. There are also similar applications for mobile devices such as WiFi Analytics.

On Tp-Link routers, open the tab Wireless - Wireless Advanced. Paragraph Transmit Power allows you to adjust the signal strength. High value means maximum power.

These settings are more useful if you want to, on the contrary, reduce the signal strength of your Wi-Fi router.

How to increase the range of a Wi-Fi network using additional devices?

1 Installing a repeater, or setting up a second router in amplifier mode. Of all the recommendations that you will see here, or even find on the Internet, this method is the most effective and reliable. True, you will have to spend money on a repeater.

Ordinary routers can act as a repeater. Here are instructions for setting up ZyXEL and Asus routers in repeater mode:

If your Wi-Fi does not "finish off" to some rooms, then installing a repeater will solve this problem. And if you have a house with several floors, then you can install a router on the first floor, and a repeater on the second. Excellent and working design.

2 Changing the antennas of the router to more powerful ones. If your router has removable antennas, then you can buy more powerful ones, and thereby slightly increase the coverage of your network. Why a little? Yes, because replacing antennas usually does not give a very good result. It is, but not such as to increase the radius by several rooms. In any case, you will have to spend money on antennas. And it seems to me that it is much better to spend this money on a repeater. Yes, it will cost more, but the benefits of it are much greater.

If you decide to change antennas, then take powerful ones with a gain of 8 dBi. But, they are expensive, and several of these antennas will cost as a repeater.

I already wrote, you can see the results.

3 Buying a new router, switching to 5 GHz. You can buy a more powerful, expensive router. And better, a router with support for the 5 GHz band. What is the advantage of the 5 GHz band? It is practically free, now most of all networks and other devices operate in the 2.4 GHz band. Less interference means more speed and greater network range.

There are places where the 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi network practically does not work. It is buggy all the time, the connection disappears, low speed, etc. And all because there are a lot of different networks. In such cases, switching to 5 GHz solves all problems.

1 Choose the correct location for your router. Actually, this is very good and effective advice. As a rule, everyone sets up routers at the entrance, or in some distant rooms. The correct location of the router will allow you to correctly distribute the signal, thereby increasing the range of Wi-Fi.

Simply put, you need to install the router as close to the center of the house as possible. Yes, this does not always work out, since you need to lay a cable to the router, and pulling it to the middle of the house is not very convenient. But, even minor movements of the router can increase the network level in the rooms you need. And also, you need to remember that walls are the enemy of Wi-Fi networks.

2 Homemade amplifiers for Wi-Fi antennas. You can find many instructions that show the manufacture of amplifiers for the router. As a rule, this is ordinary foil, and cans. It turns out that if you put a sheet of foil on one side of the antenna, then the signal will bounce off it and go in the direction we need.

I think it's all nonsense. Firstly, a cut can of beer, or a piece of foil behind the router does not look very nice, and secondly, there is practically no effect from this. You can check.

Here are some tips. I think you have found a suitable way for yourself to increase the range of your Wi-Fi network. Share your tips in the comments!

IEEE 802.11. To some extent, the term Wi-Fi is synonymous with 802.11b, since 802.11b was the first in the IEEE 802.11 group of standards to become widely adopted. Today, however, the term Wi-Fi applies equally to any of the 802.11b, 802.11a, 802.11g, and 802.11n standards.
The Wi-Fi Alliance certifies Wi-Fi products to ensure that all 802.11 products entering the market conform to the standard's specification. Unfortunately, 802.11a using 5GHz is not compatible with 802.11b/g using 2.4GHz, so the Wi-Fi product market remains fragmented. For our country, this is irrelevant, since the use of 802.11a equipment requires special permission and it is not widely used here, moreover, the vast majority of devices that support the 802.11a standard also support the 802.11b or 802.11g standard, which allows us to consider relatively compatible all currently sold WiFi devices. The new 802.11n standard supports both of these frequencies.

What equipment is needed to create a wireless network?

Each device that participates in a wireless network needs what is also called a wireless network card. All modern, some, and PDAs are already equipped with built-in wireless network adapters. However, in many cases, network adapters must be purchased separately to create a wireless network.
Popular network adapters for laptops have a PC Card (PCMCIA) form factor, respectively, for desktop computers there are models with a PCI interface, wireless USB adapters can be connected to both portable and desktop systems, for PDAs there are adapters with CompactFlash and SDIO interfaces .
To create a small wireless LAN from two (in some cases, more) devices, it is enough to have the required number of network adapters. (Requires that they support AdHoc mode).
However, if you want to increase the performance of your network, include more computers on the network, and extend the range of your network, you will need and/or.
Functions are similar to those of traditional wired routers. They are usually used in cases where a wireless network is created from scratch.
An alternative are those that allow you to connect a wireless network to an existing wired network. are used, as a rule, to expand a network that already has a wired switch or. To build a home local network, one is enough, which is quite capable of providing the necessary range. Office networks typically require multiple access points and/or routers.
Access points and, as well as network cards with a PCI interface, as a rule, can be used with more powerful antennas instead of standard ones, which significantly increases the communication range or coverage radius.

	Adapters		Other
A network of two wireless devices without a wired LAN connection	2	-	Network adapters must support Ad-Hoc mode, in some cases it is possible to network more than two devices in this way.
Small home or office network	By number of devices	1	If you plan to connect wired devices to the local network, then you need an access point with the functionality of a router (Wireless Router).
Bridge between wired LANs	-	By the number of networks, if there are more than two, you need to make sure that the selected access points support the Point-To-MultiPoint Bridge mode	-
Organization of a large wireless office or corporate network	By number of devices	The quantity is selected based on the optimal coverage area and speed.	Some access points can operate in repeater or WDS mode.

What is the typical range of a Wi-Fi network?

The range of your home Wi-Fi network depends on the type of wireless access point you use or. Factors that determine the range of wireless access points or include:

Type of protocol used 802.11;
total transmitter power;
The gain of the antennas used;
Length and attenuation in the cables that connect the antennas;
The nature of obstacles and interference in the signal path in a given area.

The range with standard antennas (2dBi gain) of popular 802.11g access points and routers, provided that they are connected to a device that has an antenna with a similar gain, can be approximately estimated at 150m in open areas and 50m indoors, more accurate figures for different standards are listed below in the table on the transfer rate.
Obstacles in the form of brick walls and metal structures can reduce the range of a Wi-Fi network by 25% or more. Since the 802.11a standard uses frequencies higher than the 802.11b/g standards, it is the most sensitive to various kinds of obstacles. The range of Wi-Fi networks that support the 802.11b or 802.11g standard is also affected by interference from microwave ovens.
Tree foliage can be another significant obstacle, since it contains water that absorbs microwave radiation in this range. Heavy rain attenuates signals in the 2.4GHz band with an intensity of up to 0.05 dB/km, thick fog introduces an attenuation of 0.02 dB/km, and in a forest (thick leaves, branches) the signal can attenuate with an intensity of up to 0.5 dB/m.
You can increase the range of a Wi-Fi network by combining several wireless access points into a chain or by replacing standard antennas installed on network cards with more powerful ones.
Approximate range and network speed options can ideally be calculated using D-Link, which is oriented to equipment, but the formulas and methods used there are suitable for any other.
When creating a radio bridge between two networks, one must be aware of the fact that the space around the straight line drawn between the receiver and the transmitter must be free from reflective and absorbing obstacles in a radius comparable to 0.6 of the radius of the first Fresnel zone. Its size can be calculated based on the following formula:

Where:
In a real situation, the signal level at different distances from the transmitter can be measured using.

What is networking in Infrastructure mode?

This mode allows you to connect a wireless network to a wired Ethernet network via a wireless access point. For connection to be possible, the wireless local area network (WLAN), wireless access point, and all wireless clients must use the same SSID (Service Set ID). Then you can connect to a wired network using a cable and thus provide wireless clients with access to wired network data. To expand your infrastructure and provide simultaneous access to the wired network to any number of wireless clients, you can connect additional access points to the wireless LAN.
The main advantages of networks organized in Infrastructure mode compared to networks organized in Ad-Hoc mode are their scalability, centralized protection and extended range. The disadvantage is of course the need to spend on additional equipment, such as an additional access point.
, intended for use at home, always have a built-in access point to support Infrastructure mode.

How fast can a wireless network be?

Wireless network speed depends on several factors.
The performance of wireless LANs is determined by which Wi-Fi standard they support. Networks that support the 802.11n standard can offer the maximum throughput - up to 600 Mbps (when using MIMO). The throughput of networks supporting the 802.11a or 802.11g standard can be up to 54 Mbps. (Compare with standard wired Ethernet networks, which have a throughput of 100 or 1000 Mbps.)
In practice, even at the highest possible signal level, the performance of Wi-Fi networks never reaches the theoretical maximum indicated above. For example, networks that support the 802.11b standard usually do not exceed 50% of their theoretical maximum speed, which is approximately 5.5 Mbps. Accordingly, the speed of networks that support the 802.11a or 802.11g standard is usually no more than 20 Mbps. The reasons for the discrepancy between theory and practice are the redundancy of protocol coding, signal interference, and the change in Hamming distance with a change in the distance between the receiver and transmitter. In addition, the more devices on the network simultaneously participating in data exchange, the proportionally lower the network bandwidth per device, which naturally limits the number of devices that it makes sense to connect to one access point or router (another limitation may be caused by features operation of the built-in DHCP server, for devices from our range, the final figure ranged from 26 to 255 devices).
A number of manufacturers have released devices that support proprietary extensions of the 802.11b and 802.11g protocols, with a theoretical maximum speed of 22Mbps and 108Mbps, respectively, but at the moment there is no radical increase in speed compared to working on standard protocols.

Protocol	Used frequency	Maximum theoretical speed	Typical speed in practice	Communication range indoors	Communication range in open area
802.11b	2.4GHz	11Mbps	0.4MB/sec	38	140
802.11a	5GHz	54Mbps	2.3MB/sec	35	120
802.11g	2.4GHz	54Mbps	1.9MB/s	38	140
802.11n	2.4GHz, 5GHz	600Mbps	7.4MB/s	70	250

In addition, the speed of any pair of devices drops significantly as the signal level decreases, so often the most effective means of raising the speed for remote devices is to use high-gain antennas.

Is wireless communication safe for health?

Recently, there has been a lot of talk in the media about the fact that prolonged use of wireless network devices can provoke serious diseases. However, to date, there is no scientific evidence that would confirm the assumption that microwave signals have a negative impact on human health.
Despite the lack of scientific data, we dare to assume that wireless networks are safer for human health than mobile phones. A typical home wireless network has the same frequency range as microwave ovens, but microwave ovens and even mobile phones have 100 to 1000 times the power of wireless network adapters and access points.
In general, one thing can be said with certainty in this matter: the intensity of human exposure to microwave radiation from wireless networks is incomparably less than the impact of other microwave devices

The registration procedure for RES is described in the Decrees of the Government of the Russian Federation dated October 12, 2004 No. 539 "On the procedure for registering radio electronic equipment and high-frequency devices" and dated July 25, 2007 No. 476 On amendments to the Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation dated October 12, 2004 No. 539 "On the procedure for registering radio electronic means and high-frequency devices"

According to Decree N 476 of July 25, 2007, user (terminal) radio access equipment (wireless access) in the radio frequency band 2400 - 2483.5 MHz with a radiation power of transmitting devices up to 100 mW inclusive is EXCLUDED from the list of radio electronic equipment and high-frequency devices subject to registration. We remind you that the nominal transmitter power of all currently sold consumer WiFi devices is within this figure, and the installation of any antennas that do not have active elements does not increase it.

Access Point Mode(Access Point) - Access Point mode is designed for wireless connection to laptops, desktop PCs and PDAs. Wireless clients can only access the access point in Access Point mode.

Access Point Client / Wireless Client Mode(Wireless Client) - AP Client or Wireless Client mode allows an access point to become a wireless client of another access point. Essentially, in this mode, the access point acts as a wireless network adapter. You can use this mode to exchange data between two access points. Communication between the wireless card and the access point is not possible in Access Point Client / Wireless Client Mode.

Point-to-Point / Wireless Bridge(Wireless point-to-point bridge) - Point-to-Point / Wireless Bridge mode allows a wireless point to communicate with another access point that supports point-to-point wireless bridge mode. However, keep in mind that most manufacturers use their own original settings to activate Wireless Bridge's mode. Typically, this mode is used to wirelessly connect equipment in two different buildings.
Wireless clients cannot communicate with the access point in this mode.

Point-to-Multipoint / Multipoint Bridge(Wireless point-to-multipoint bridge) - Point-to-Multi-point / Multi-point Bridge mode is similar to Point-to-point / Wireless Bridge mode, with the difference that it allows more than two access points. Wireless clients also cannot communicate with the access point in this mode.

Repeater Mode(Repeater) - Operating as a wireless repeater, the access point extends the range of the wireless network by repeating the signal of the remote access point. In order for an access point to act as a wireless range extender for another access point, you must specify the Ethernet MAC address of the remote access point in its configuration. In this mode, wireless clients can communicate with.

WDS(Wireless Distribution System) - allows you to simultaneously connect wireless clients to points operating in Bridge (point-to-point bridge) or Multipoint Bridge (point-to-many point bridge) modes, however, this reduces the speed of operation.

All currently sold access points are easily configured via a web interface, for which you need to access a specific IP address specified in the documentation for the device when connecting them to your network for the first time through a web browser. (In some cases, special TCP/IP protocol settings will be required on the computer used to configure the access point, or also specified in the documentation) Equipment from many manufacturers is also equipped with special software that makes it easier for users to configure it. The specific information needed to set up a router to work with your ISP can almost always be found on the ISP's website.

Initially, 802.11 networks used an algorithm to ensure security. WEP(Wired Equivalent Privacy), which included the RC4 encryption algorithm with a 40-bit or 104-bit key and means of distributing keys between users, but in 2001 a fundamental vulnerability was found in it, allowing full access to the network for a finite (and very short time) regardless of the key length. Strongly not recommended for use at this time.

Therefore, in 2003, a wireless certification program called WPA(Wi-Fi Protected Access), which eliminated the shortcomings of the previous algorithm. Since 2006, all WiFi devices must support the new standard. WPA2, which differs from WPA by supporting a more modern encryption algorithm AES with 256 bit key. Also, WPA has a mechanism for protecting transmitted data packets from interception and falsification. It is this combination (WPA2 / AES) that is now recommended for use in all closed networks.

WPA has two modes of authorizing users on a wireless network - using a RADIUS authorization server (focused on corporate users and large networks, this FAQ is not considered) and WPA-PSK(Pre Shared Key), which is proposed to be used in home networks, as well as in small offices.

In this mode, password authorization (from 8 to 64 characters long) is performed on each network node (access point, router or computer emulating their operation, the password itself is pre-set from the access point settings menu or in another way specific to your equipment).

Also, many modern household Wi-Fi devices use the Wi-Fi Protected Setup mode ( WPS), also called Wi-Fi Easy Setup, where clients are authorized on the access point using a special button or by entering a pin code unique to the device.

For cases where the network operates a fixed set of equipment (i.e., a bridge created using two access points or a single laptop connected to the wireless segment of the home network), the most reliable way is to restrict access by MAC address (a unique address for each Ethernet device, both wired and wireless, in Windows for all network devices, these addresses can be read in the Physical Address column after issuing the ipconfig / all command) by prescribing a list of MAC addresses of “own” devices in the access point menu and selecting access permission to the network only to devices with addresses from this list.

Also, any wireless network has a unique identifier - SSID(service set identifier), which is actually displayed as the name of the network when viewing the list of available networks, which is set when configuring the device used (or replacing it). When you disable broadcasting (broadcast) SSID, the network will look like an unnamed network for users browsing available networks, and you need to know both the SSID and the password to connect (in the case of using WPA-PSK, however, disabling the SSID by itself does not make the network more resistant to unauthorized entry from the outside.

What is the radius of wifi coverage, how far does it work and how to increase it? These questions concern everyone who is faced with the organization of a WiFi network. Today we’ll talk about ways to increase the range of a wifi router and the characteristics of the main devices in organizing a wireless network - a router and a receiver - that you need to pay attention to first of all when purchasing them.

Why do I need to increase the distance of the wifi router?

For a standard city apartment, the simplest router and an adapter built into the laptop are enough for stable network operation. However, it may be necessary to increase the coverage radius if you want, for example, to create a single local area network with a neighbor living in the house opposite. Or if you live in a private house and want to network the house and, for example, a garage or a summer kitchen. In this case, you will have to take a closer look at the characteristics of the devices or even use some other devices that increase the wifi coverage radius.

Range of wifi router and adapter

I have already said that for safety and for good reception, the router should be located in the center of the apartment, next to the receiving device and, if possible, away from interfering devices. But like any electronic device, each model has its own characteristics that can affect the operation, in our case, the “firing range”. As a rule, the specifications for each product, whether it is a router or a receiver (wifi adapter), which we are talking about today, indicate how far it works in open space under ideal conditions. But these data - reading the theory, but in real life they are simply unattainable.

The easiest way to determine the quality of a signal is by the characteristics of the antenna that the devices are equipped with - one for transmitting a signal, the other for receiving. Antennas can be either hidden, built-in, or external, screwed onto the device itself. Antenna power is measured in DBI. The higher the value, the more powerful the antenna.

Below is a sample USB receiver adapter with the included external antenna.

If you paid attention, there are models of routers and adapters that have several antennas - two or even three. Using a few pieces, you can significantly increase the reception range of the wifi adapter and the distance of the wifi router. That is, a unit equipped with one 8 dbi antenna will broadcast weaker than a higher level and cost model equipped with 2 or 3 8 dbi antennas.

When choosing a receiver, also look at the values of the "Receiving mode" parameter - the higher it is, the better the reception.

Ways to increase wifi range

However, this will not be enough if we are talking about a decent distance of up to 100-150 meters. In this case, some additional methods will help us to ensure the desired range of the wifi signal, which will be discussed in other articles:

5. Use of equipment from one manufacturer on all network devices.

6. Router amplifier

7. Combining several ways

A weak signal of a home router in an urban environment is no longer news, but every active network user faced the question of how to strengthen the wi-fi signal of a home router. There are several reasons for such reception problems, these are: malfunctions of the device itself, interference from other electrical appliances operating in the house, and other reasons. It should be recalled that there are no less ways to "wi-fi" on the router, the services of a specialist are not needed.

Often, the transmitter power of the router is adversely affected by nearby electrical appliances. A tangible impact is exerted, for example, by microwave ovens, mobile phones with powerful electromagnetic radiation. Amplifying the signal of a wifi router is easy if you place the equipment away from each other.

The router needs an open space that is freely accessible, and not behind a closet or sofa. If for some reason the microwave is located close to the router, you need to amplify the signal using a second router (optional). This is a win-win.

Strengthening the signal in the router settings

In most cases, this, of course, does not solve the problem, and the signal is still rather weak. The ability to amplify the wi-fi signal of your router is in the device, its settings. The signal of insufficient strength is “conceived” in the default settings of the home router, this happens due to the reluctance of users to change them individually for themselves. Often you don’t want to mess around with the settings, read something, delve into the process. Therein lies the problem. Neighbors living across the wall think the same way, and their nearby devices operate on the same frequency, which slows down the system.

Increasing the transmission power of the router

You can boost a weak signal by boosting the transmit power of your home router. True, the regulators are not installed on all devices, and it is recommended to do this only if other methods do not help. Uncontrolled intervention in the system threatens to damage or overheat the device. Therefore, before resorting to this method, you should carefully read the instructions (after all, read them), remember that the power indicator should not exceed 45 mW. And to improve the signal strength as follows:

In the settings, open the "Advanced network settings" section.
Go around the perimeter Wireless Transmit Power - "Transmit Power".
Values are expressed either in "%", or High - high, Medium - medium, Low - low.
In the first case, you need to increase to the maximum: 100%.
In the second, select "High" and set the value to "20".

Change channel to free

It is also possible to amplify a weak Wi-Fi signal by switching to a free transmission channel. If the router is configured by default, there is a high probability that no actions in this direction have been applied to the neighbors either. This is one of the most common reasons for slow network speed. Being on the same channel with devices located nearby, its radius is significantly reduced. In order to increase the communication speed, it is recommended to select several options for changing the channel:

Set the router to "Auto" in the network settings.
In the same settings, set one of the static channels.
Use programs like inSSIDer or Acrylic that monitor free channels.

Changing the broadcast mode of the router

How to strengthen the weak signal of a wi-fi router in the settings is not so difficult to figure out. All that is needed is to change the existing standard of wireless networks, which usually operate in b/g/n mode. New devices are configured according to the modern standard - 802.11ac, which is considered the most advanced. However, the outdated 802.11n is able to increase both the transmission speed and the network coverage radius. But this will not work if the wireless router has only one antenna, or if it does not support these standards.

Switching the network to the new-old mode is simple:

Go to the settings at the address of the router: 192.168.1.1.
Open the Wireless section - “Wireless network.
Go to the item Mode - "Wireless network mode.
In it, select the value N only - Save - "Save".
It remains only to reload.

Amplification with additional devices

You can amplify the signal of the router by taking advantage of the capabilities of other devices designed specifically for this. Additional antennas, amplifiers, adapters will help to significantly increase the range and radius of action if usb ports work in the home router. These options are often more effective than other options, especially with older wireless devices.

Replacing the Standard Antenna

If the router has a removable antenna, replace it with a more powerful one. Albeit slightly, but the range of the network increases. This, of course, is not the best option. The effect of such changes is insignificant, but when other methods do not help, this one becomes an alternative.

TP-Link is considered one of the best antennas for wi-fi routers: high-quality and relatively inexpensive. But they are not suitable for all devices of this type. In order for the result to be noticeable, you need to choose an antenna that has a gain of at least 8 dBi.

It will help to strengthen the signal of a wi-fi router by installing another antenna or even two, but this is only possible if the device itself supports them.

Installing a wi-fi amplifier (booster)

Strengthening the signal of a home router is possible with the help of repeaters such as Range Extender Booster. These are good Wi-Fi signal amplifiers with superior antenna capabilities, but they are cheaper. Other booster benefits:

Suitable for all broadcast mode standards.
Improves, expands the signal up to the edge of the coverage area.
Supports the power of wireless devices from 2.4 GHz.
Boosts the transmission speed to a maximum of 300 Mbps.
Stable, safe to use.

Repeater installation

A repeater (repeater) is another signal amplifier, similar in principle to a booster, but much inferior to it. The repeater is able to significantly increase the signal, this is where its capabilities end. And the booster, in addition, is able to expand the reception range. By the way, there is no need to buy this device, another router can act as such a repeater.

There are other ways to amplify the signal. Perhaps this is with the help of laptop settings or the use of improvised means, self-manufacturing of the antenna. It is really possible to gain a router without an antenna if you follow simple rules:

Set it high.
Do not place near flat metal objects.
Avoid radio interference.

Setting up the receiver on a laptop or computer

Few people thought about using what means to amplify the wi-fi reception signal on a personal laptop and whether this is even possible. The solution to the problem, not noticed by anyone, often lies on the surface. Often users put their laptop into power save mode to conserve battery power. At home, this is useless, since at any time it is easy to connect the beech to the mains, but wi-fi networks “lose” significantly from this, hence the weak signal. To strengthen it, just change the power settings:

Open "Control Panel".
Go to the "Electric control" section.
Select "High Performance".

Homemade antennas

Many people know how to slightly increase the signal of a wi-fi router with their own hands, without resorting to standard means. Tellingly, the methods work. Increasing the range of the device is possible due to the manufacture of original wi-fi repeater repeaters with your own hands. For this, nothing special is required: the manufacturing scheme is quite simple. You need to take a piece of foil or cut an empty tin can, give them a curved shape and install them behind the router, preferably near the wall, artificially creating a directional wave. Reducing the angle, the waves bounce off the surface of the improvised antenna, the signal is slightly amplified.

Router replacement

If none of the above helps, then the problem lies in the device itself. In this case, there is only one thing left: replacing the wireless router.

Actually, after this, problems are excluded, provided that users do not save on purchases, otherwise they will again have to look for a reason from the outside or engage in “needlework”. It is better to purchase a modern wi-fi router that supports operation at a frequency of 5 GHz, then you can forget about a weak signal once and for all.

Conclusion

Amplifying the signal of a router in an apartment with your own hands is an activity that does not require any special knowledge. You just need to delve into these recommendations and it will become clear that doing this at home is as easy as shelling pears.

It is difficult to find a person who does not know about the wi-fi network. The same can be said about the main disadvantage of this compound. With all the availability, the range of wi-fi is small, as it hardly overcomes obstacles in the form of an ordinary wall.

Routers sold to create a home network must be limited in power to no more than 100 mW. It is realistic to find on sale about 50 mW. As a result, in the complete absence of mechanical barriers, the range of wi-fi is able to spread within a radius of 150 m from the access point. Indoors, this value decreases to 50, without partitions. The type of protocol also affects the distribution of the network.

Zone defining conditions:

power;
protocol. 802.11a, 802.11b, 802.11g are the most common types. The sensitivity of the device to interference depends on them;
antenna gain;
characteristics of antenna cables. Length and attenuation;
the presence of mechanical obstacles: partitions, fences.

Many routers can't handle other kinds of interference, too, such as microwaves, rain, and even fog. Having bought a household router, you can organize a network within a radius of one apartment or a small private house.

WiFi signal interference

If the task of the router is limited to connecting to the Internet for several devices, then this is enough. There are frequent cases of a weak signal and the appearance of "dead zones" even in such conditions. The reason for this is all the same interference.

The problem arises when there is a need to go beyond the 50 guaranteed meters. For example, install wireless video surveillance at the entrance to the house or at the gate.

The range of the wi-fi camera from 50 meters will not be enough to transfer high-quality video to a computer or other receiving device.

The rather weak capabilities of regular routers do not put an end to the idea of using wi-fi in solving more complex tasks. The problem can be solved by technical means and without the intervention of additional devices.

Expansion of the signal propagation zone using technical means

Method number 1 - to increase the signal zone, use a long-range Wi-Fi router. A router with a power of about 1 W with the possibility of connecting antennas is able to provide wi-fi distribution already in kilometers. Recall that officially it is forbidden to use routers with a power of more than 100 mW without a license. However, you can find them for sale.

Powerful long range wifi router

Method number 2 - organize a system of several routers or using repeaters. No need to look for prohibited devices or install antennas. But it is not always possible to install an additional access point, even wireless, on the required path.

There is another minus - this is the quality of the repeated signal. Firstly, when using additional points of routers, it will be twice as bad. Secondly, regardless of the device, the child networks will work properly only when the air is free.

Method number 3 to increase the range of the router by installing an effective antenna. This is an option to increase signal strength without purchasing a banned router. It is worth looking into the technical characteristics of the antenna. The market offers options with a gain of up to 13 dB.

Powerful antenna for wi-fi router

In this way, the coverage area will increase, but "dead zones" will appear. The advantage is that the router also receives signals from devices well. This will be needed where a wi-fi camera is connected, the range of which is also enhanced. Not only a more powerful antenna can improve communication, but also several antennas on one router.

Another type of router that covers a large area is the 5GHz dual-band router. Wins due to work on a free frequency. But besides the high cost, it is also not suitable for all gadgets, cameras and other devices.

Improving network coverage with the right installation

Sometimes you can achieve the required coverage without spending on long-range wi-fi transmitters, antennas and repeaters.

7 ways to increase the area of effect:

vertical position of the antenna. In an inclined position, the signal is wasted on propagation to the floor and ceiling. This is more of an installation optimization, but is suitable for a slight expansion of coverage;
optimal location of the access point. The latter should be located as close as possible to the receiver or equidistant to several;
the minimum amount of interference between the router and devices. Either remove serious obstacles, or arrange the devices so that there is no interference between them. It's hard to organize;
change router mode. The new 802.11n mode has better propagation and signal quality. The inconvenience lies in the inability to connect to equipment with 802.11 B / G;
changing the channel of the router. This is done in the settings. In fact, this method is a special case of the third paragraph. It will help only from interference interference of neighboring networks;
enhance power. It's about settings again. Often only 75% of the capacity is set. But by changing the setting to the maximum, there is a risk of getting a deterioration in signal quality;
close the way for signal propagation in the wrong direction. Metal-containing materials that do not transmit a signal will help here.

Proper installation of a wi-fi router

Some of these methods are difficult to implement in practice. If the mirror can still be outweighed, then the reinforced concrete wall cannot be put anywhere. Finding a suitable location for an access point is easy, but it is not certain that there will be an outlet. In addition, these tools are not very effective, but not too expensive and solve some problems. In any case, the method must be selected according to the goal. Next, consider setting up a network when organizing video surveillance.

Configuring Signal Distribution for Video Surveillance

If we talk about the device of an outdoor wi-fi camera, then the signal propagation in the coverage area of the wi-fi router will have two problems: the coverage area and a large amount of interference. Therefore, the best options would be to use a strong antenna and optimize the location of both the router and the cameras.

The range of a wi-fi camera also depends on atmospheric phenomena, so an external antenna or the location of a repeater on the street is an effective option. This will help not only to strengthen the radio signal, but also to avoid additional interference: walls, partitions and other obstacles in the building.

Setting up a Wi-Fi signal for video surveillance

You can provide the required coverage with a powerful router. But the disadvantages of its use have already been written above. Although there is also an outdoor version that will make signal distribution efficient, in the case of video surveillance, the quality of information transmitted to the router is extremely important.

Of all the methods described above, it will hardly be enough to limit oneself to one. To increase the range of a Wi-Fi camera, and even more so several, you will need to combine two or more methods. In the case of shooting, it is important not only to ensure communication between the camera and the video receiver, but also to establish a stable connection.

The wi-fi range depends on the technical characteristics of the access point and its settings. The peculiarity of the spread of a wireless network is that it depends on external factors. In domestic conditions, the budget option provides little coverage. For comfortable use in large areas and over long distances, you will have to resort to all sorts of tricks. The latter, fortunately, are not so few.