How to cure rot in an orchid. I wonder why orchid leaves rot: what to do? Folk remedies for neck rot in an orchid

A lot of problems can arise for flower growers who decide to study, breed and care for this magically beautiful plant.

But, when a diseased orchid experiences hard times, the core rots, and, as a rule, every professional knows what to do.

It is necessary to be armed with certain knowledge and skills in order to understand the cause, eliminate the problems that have arisen and give new life to your favorite flower.

Causes of core rot in an orchid

Various diseases lie in wait for a beautiful orchid in life, but this disease is one of the most unpleasant when the core of the plant or the growth point begins to rot.

This is the name of the topmost leaf of orchids such as phalaenopsis or vanda. When the growth point is damaged, the plant loses its ability to grow upward, and the “rosette” remaining at the site of damage begins to produce lateral processes - children, which further ensure the growth of the flower.

Most often, this disease affects the orchid suddenly. The causes of damage to the core can be different:

• mechanical damage. Occurs, for example, when a flower pot falls;
• flower sunburn;
• damage by fungal and bacterial infections;

There is another reason for the start of the process of core rotting. It appears in, unfavorable for the flower, the temperature period of our climate. Low temperatures and lack of lighting can lead to stagnation of moisture in the core of the plant, if carelessness was made during watering and moisture got into the growing point.

I must say that the problem is when orchid growing point rots is a rather rare occurrence. But flower growers may encounter it, so it is necessary to dwell on this situation in more detail.

In order for moisture to begin its destructive actions, it is not enough just to get it into the core of the plant. To do this, it must be in the zone of the growth point for a long time, approximately a day. It is quite difficult to imagine such a situation on summer days with hot temperatures and sufficient lighting. Water evaporates quickly under the influence of heat and light.

There are, of course, unforeseen moments. A plant that has just been watered and placed in the burning sun may be burned. But, most often, such events occur in the autumn-winter period, when there is little light, low temperatures, cold window sills or just blowing through the windows. In these cases, water can stagnate and, in the future, start the process of rotting of the core of the orchid.

Prevention of rotting of the growing point in an orchid

It is difficult to imagine how quickly the destructive processes in the plant will begin. It depends on the structure of the leaves: the more delicate the tissue of the leaf, the faster the decay will begin.

To prevent this, you must strictly follow all the rules for caring for an orchid:

• when choosing a place for a flower, pay attention to sufficient lighting, the necessary temperature and humidity;
• put the orchid in a ventilated room;
• watering is carried out strictly as necessary, when moisture evaporates from the substrate, and it becomes almost dry;
• approximately 30-40 minutes after watering, remove excess water accumulated in the core of the flower with a napkin.

Orchid Treatment Methods

If you have the core of the orchid began to rot, what to do your experience and knowledge will tell you. The process of treating an orchid will make you feel like a surgeon for a while, the main tool of which is a scalpel.

In order to prevent the spread of rot to neighboring leaves, it is necessary to completely cut the core to a healthy green tissue. Even if it takes too much, in your opinion, to cut out the fabric of the core, don't let that bother you. The main thing is that the rot should stop spreading.

Use sharp scissors, knives, a razor. All instruments must be disinfected in alcohol before the procedure. And then after each cutting of the tissue, it is necessary to wipe them with alcohol or ignite them on fire to prevent the growth of bacteria on open wounds. Flower wounds are also subject to mandatory treatment with brilliant green, iodine, cinnamon, and activated charcoal.

At first, carefully observe your injured plants, watching in time for signs of possible new decay.

Orchid life after treatment

Beginners sometimes face the problem of determining the affected growth point, sometimes taking for it part of the damaged leaf that follows the core. If at least one small green leaf remains on a damaged orchid, this means that the growing point is alive and will continue to develop.

How will the further fate of the orchid develop?

Children will appear in two ways:

• from the educational tissue (meristem) of peduncles;
• from the educational tissue (meristem) located on the stem;

These so-called "sleeping" buds will definitely grow and, to your surprise, it may be a peduncle. It will contain "sleeping" kidneys, which, in consequence, can become children. In order for the growth process to proceed more actively, the children who have appeared need mandatory help.

To maintain their strength, you can purchase a “sleeping” bud sprouting stimulator, hormonal cytokinin paste (Keikiboost, Keiki Grow Plus, etc.)

When meristems appear on peduncles, their recognition is usually not difficult for flower growers. But the appearance of "sleeping" buds on the stem is not always immediately recognized by beginners. In this case, there is nothing difficult, since the meristem on the stem looks similar to the location on the peduncle. It is hidden under scales - small leaves. In the place where the leaf is attached to the stem, you will always find a “sleeping” bud that has appeared. It can be lubricated very carefully with hormonal paste.

As usual, in these cases of resuscitation of the plant, do not forget about the sufficient illumination of the flower and maintaining the required temperature of 16-18 degrees.

I must say that the development of children goes along very different vectors. Some of them grow leaves quite quickly. Others quickly give new roots. There are no standards in this matter. A lot depends on the genetics of the plant, on the conditions of its maintenance, on whether the meristems were treated with hormonal paste. After hormones, as a rule, roots grow worse. If this procedure took place in the winter, then the roots can not wait for 12-18 months.

And, given that some children who have grown up on a stem prefer not to break away from their mother's roots for a long time, representing a point of growth, then the process of reviving a new plant life can take up to three years. But do not worry, sooner or later this happy moment will happen, the children will give roots and they can be transplanted by removing them from the mother's body.

Just wait until the roots of the plant reach a length of at least five centimeters, otherwise it will be difficult to transplant them. If the roots are small, then the orchid will throw all its strength on the growth of roots in order to gain a foothold in the substrate.

For inexperienced flower growers who decide on exotic plants, sometimes from excessive, associated with ignorance of the biological and physiological characteristics of orchids, they simply give up if the orchid begins to rot before our eyes.

The first unsuccessful experience of growing tropical beauties leaves the impression that such a plant is at home. growing is difficult and problematic.

It turns out that everything is not so difficult if you try to understand the causes of decay and know what to do to make a tropical beauty. , although capricious in care, but quite cheerful and almost always amenable to resuscitation.

Why do orchids get rot?

Putrefactive processes in any part of the plant are mainly associated with increased and prolonged humidity at low ambient temperatures. This is especially true for inexperienced growers.

Having no experience, not knowing the physiological characteristics of tropical orchids, they take care of their pets too diligently, not realizing that they only harm the plant.

Causes

Main reasons why an orchid rots when grown at home, are:

• immoderate;
• low-quality;
• the greenhouse effect;
• sunburn;
• organic;
• overabundance;
• weakened plant;

Often the cause of decay is excessive watering.

What organs of the plant are affected?

The most vulnerable part for putrefactive processes is root system. From the soil is compacted, decomposed, and in the absence of good ventilation, rapidly spreading foci of decay are formed.

Second place belongs to plant leaves. Damage by direct rays of the sun or pests opens the air supply to the intercellular tissues, where the process of decay begins.

The third place belongs core or stem. Carelessness of watering, irrigation or pests quickly lead this part to the focus of the spread of the fungus.

Types of rot

Gray

A fungal disease caused by the fungus Botrytis cinerea. Ideal conditions for education - cold, damp atmosphere with poor ventilation. The initial manifestation on flowers in the form small brown spots.

With progression spots increase and are framed by a pale pink halo. The final phase of propagation is the merging of spots into one and the appearance of gray membranous sprouts (mycelium) of the fungus.

Gray rot on orchids (photo of the back of the affected leaf).

Gray rot on petals.

An infected plant, under ideal conditions, is capable of releasing spores into the environment. At a temperature of 18 to 23 ° C and a humidity of at least 90%, the spread of infection to healthy tissues occurs quite quickly - within 12-15 hours. The most susceptible to fungus and.

Attention! In 90% of cases, a weakened plant is affected.

Brown or bacterial rot

The causative agents are bacteria of the Erwinia family, Pseudomonas and others. The most commonly affected young leaves and shoots. Lesions appear wet brown spots, which in front of the eyes cover the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe part of the plant. If the stem or growth point is affected by brown rot, it dies.

The action of bacteria progresses if the humidity is above 60% and the ambient temperature is 15° and below.

Subject to this type of rot:

• Cattleya;

Bacterial rot.

Another photo bact. rot.

With a large defeat, the plants are destroyed. Local, small foci are cut out to living tissue, and the cut is disinfected with crushed activated charcoal. Improving conditions and care.

For preventive purposes, under favorable conditions for the spread of bacteria, they produce spraying with preparations based on copper.

Black

And although the main defeat goes to young roots, since they are not yet protected by a reliable coating, when spreading, it goes to all parts of the exotic, regardless of age.

The greatest danger is the formation of tuberidium in the bases. The danger lies in the rapid spread of lesions to healthy areas. Roots quickly due to tissue necrosis, and tuberidia mummified.

The conditions for the spread of black rot are low and high humidity of the environment and soil. Under such conditions, the underground part develops slowly. Some roots do not have enough air in the soil saturated with moisture, and they gradually die off, which makes it easy for pathogenic fungi to penetrate them.

The most affordable black rot are such types of orchids as:

• cattleyas;
• stanhopei;
• leliocattlei;
• and etc.

Even at normal temperature and humidity, mushrooms do not die. Propagation processes slow down and proceed much more slowly. Extensive activation of putrefactive processes leads to the death of a tropical beauty.

Black rot.

You can save the plant in the initial stages of damage. Since development occurs in foci, optimization of moisture and treatment with copper-containing preparations will not only significantly slow down the process, but in the early stages it can heal ocher.

Dry rot

On orchids, according to some sources, dry rot is nothing more than fusarium. But there is another concept of dry rot - this is southern sclerocial rot.

Southern sclerocial

An infectious disease caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. Appears in almost all parts, but especially the roots and stem, and at the same time.

Soil-dwelling fungi that can remain viable for many years. The infection gets not only with poor-quality soil components, but also with.

The ideal propagation conditions are temperature 27-33°C and high humidity.

Southern sclerocial rot.

More photos.

Important! At low humidity, the disease also multiplies rapidly, differing only in a different development process.

If wet rot is in many ways similar to various kinds of root rot, then dry rot affects mainly orchids growing on blocks.

Fusarium

A fungal disease caused by Fusarium moniliforme var. lactis. on yellowed leaves and their- the main symptom of fusarium. The tissues of the leaf plate lose their structure, soften and become covered with a whitish-pink bloom formed by fungal spores.

The orchid quickly acquires a nondescript gray appearance. With the central shoot, rotting occurs and subsequently it dies.

Fusarium.

Fighting the disease is quite difficult and lengthy. 7-10 days it is repeatedly subject to a day drug treatment.

Course of the disease

Pathogenic fungi enter plant tissues due to the presence of certain enzymes. Penetrating inside, toxins are released, which provoke the formation of rot that decomposes the tissue.

Any, even a slight damage to the roots, leaves or stem, contributes to the penetration of air into the wound and, accordingly, the development of pathogens. Oversaturation with moisture leads to the destruction of tissues, which is the main culprit in the development of fungal diseases.

Distribution terms

Fungal diseases, the causative agents of which are various kinds fungi develop and spread under certain conditions. But, basically, the conditions are related to temperature, humidity and.

Some species of fungi, such as Phytophtora cactorum, require high humidity and temperature, while others require dry air and low temperature.

Therefore, it is desirable for flower growers to know the physiological and biological characteristics and characteristics of those grown at home.

Bulba?

Rot damage to any part of the plant should alert the grower. Bulba is no exception. The rotting of the base of the bulb is especially dangerous, since the infection spreads quickly enough and can damage the root system. Then only a miracle can save the exotic.

The rescue process is standard - "surgical" intervention. The putrefactive focus (or the entire bulb) is removed to living tissue, disinfected, dried and watering and fertilizing are stopped for a while.

Medicines for treatment

In this section, we will look at how to treat an orchid from rot.

Fitosporin

The basis of microbiological, effective in the fight against fungi and bacteria, is a natural bacterial culture of Bacillus subtilis. Systemic work, the ability to spread through the vessels, allows successfully copes with the suppression of infectious agents.

The effectiveness against a large sector of fungal and bacterial diseases is caused by the presence of humate in the composition of various fillers and OD, which enhances the fungicidal action and stabilizes the characteristics for a long time. Due to these characteristics the shelf life is about 2 years, and the shelf life is not limited.

Phytosporin.

The main application of Fitosporin is preventive treatments. In case of diseases in a serious stage, it is ineffective.

The use and application of the drug is made strictly according to the instructions. In orchids, it is used to cultivate the soil and the root part before planting.

Has a low hazard rating that does not pose a threat. On contact, it sometimes causes irritation of the mucous membrane, therefore elementary hygiene is required.

Quadris

Systemic fungicide from the group of strobilurins and the active ingredient Azoxystrobin. Demanded as a preventive and therapeutic agent.

High hazard class warns flower growers about careful use for indoor plants. Protects after treatment for about 2 weeks.

Foliar spraying is effective for treating fungi and bacteria.

blue vitriol

Acts like fungicide and antiseptic. The main active ingredient is copper sulfate, the ions of which react with enzyme complexes of a fungal or bacterial cell and, thereby, cause irreversible changes.

In addition to treating diseases, copper is a top dressing. Antiseptic properties help to disinfect the substrate and flower container.

It is used both for processing of soil, and for spraying. The concentration is carried out strictly according to the instructions for decorative indoor plants.

3 hazard class can cause severe irritation of the mucosa in humans, so it is required to carry out the treatment with gloves and glasses. Observe all hygiene rules.

Bordeaux liquid

Included in the the most powerful means against fungal and bacterial infections. It is made using special proportions of quicklime and copper sulfate (copper sulfate and calcium oxide).

Copper sulfate acts as a poison against fungi and bacteria, and calcium oxide acts as an oxidizer neutralizer, preventing burns on plants.

Bordeaux liquid is one of the most aggressive means of fighting infections.

Mikosan

A biological product whose action is aimed at increasing plant resistance to fungal pathogens. It stimulates the production of lectins in the tissues, which disrupt the growth and development of fungi and bacteria. Mikosan does not kill the disease, and stimulates the plant to fight it.

You can use the remedy only at the initial stage of the disease, when the first spots and dots appear on the leaves. Even suspicious stains must be treated.

Attention! It is pointless to treat massive foci of rot or affected leaves with Mikosan.

Biological product of the 4th hazard class. Simple hygiene rules are required.

Alirin

Biofungicide that suppresses fungal infections in the substrate and on the orchid. The active bacteria is Bacillus subtilis.

When used, three treatments are required, with an interval of 7 days. Compatible with and insecticides.

4 hazard class.

Folk methods of getting rid

In general, only strong chemicals can cope with fungal or bacterial infections. Folk methods can help if the center of decay is insignificant and detected at the very initial stage.

Iodine solution

Used as a spray, based on: 5 drops of iodine per 5 liters of warm water.

Garlic tincture

Quantity of garlic peel 100 g infused in a bucket of water for 20-24 hours. Ready, filtered, the plant is processed.

For the preparation of garlic tincture, only the husk is used.

mustard infusion

Is taken 50 g of dry mustard and infused with 5 liters of hot water for 48 hours in a dark warm place. The mother mixture is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:1 before processing.

Important! Folk recipes are not harmful, not toxic, but even with the slightest development of fungal or bacterial infections, they are practically ineffective. You can't do without chemistry in the fight against rot.

Folk remedies have shown themselves well as preventive drugs.

Prevention measures

A rotting orchid is a sad sight. In order not to encounter it, prevention should be carried out.

Effective preventive measures, accumulated by the experience of orchid growers:

• comfortable temperature with differences not more than 5 ° С;
• humidity 50-60%;
• moderate, with drying of the substrate;
• removal of water from the axils of the leaves;
• diffused and sufficient lighting;
• ventilation, avoiding drafts and cold air;
• strict adherence to rules and concentrations.

Flower growers who decide to grow an exotic plant at home need to remember that a healthy, strong and immune plant is practically not exposed to any kind of disease. Therefore, proper care, maintaining the required growing conditions is the key to strong immunity and, accordingly, a healthy plant.

Useful videos

Video about the reasons for the decay of orchids:

Watch a video on how to treat neck rot:

What to do if the core of the orchid is rotten - video tips:

The following video is about rescuing an orchid with rotten roots:

Conclusion

An exhausted orchid is a guarantee to undergo various. Orchids are quite cheerful plants, but they are not always successful even with effective methods. Timely detection of rot and finding out the cause of its appearance, knowledge of how to treat an orchid from rot, gives a chance to save a tropical beauty with the least loss.

Do not leave ocher to its own devices or care too much about it. By following the simple recommendations of experienced flower growers, the orchid will fully develop, be healthy and delight the owner for a long time.

In contact with

Rot is a general definition of diseases caused by phytopathogenic fungi and bacteria. In the process of development, it leads to the defeat of leaf blades, stems, roots, at a more advanced stage - to complete decay, drying out and the imminent death of decorative flowers.

Read more about why the orchid leaves rot and what to do about it, read.

External symptoms: small dark spots appear on the stem or at the base of the exotic, which grow over time. This phenomenon entails yellowing or darkening of the leaves at the base, which massively fall off.

The general condition of orchids is characterized by:

• weakness;
• loss of turgor;
• decorative quality deteriorates;
• the duration of flowering is reduced;
• the processes of photosynthesis are often inhibited;
• growth stops.

The most dangerous thing is when the flower starts to rot from the middle, because a large number of varieties of orchids have only one point of growth. When it dies, the plant will not be able to continue development, and dies after it.

Also, when the core or neck rots, the orchid loses foliage. The leaves become soft, less elastic. They fall off the stem, the plant folds like a constructor. Further, the root system is damaged. For details on how to save an orchid if the roots are spoiled or have already rotted, read in.

With an excess of humidity in the room, the affected areas of the plant become overgrown with spores of rot, which can spread to nearby standing flowers. If emergency measures are not taken in time and the cause of the spread of rot is eliminated. Only in this way, the orchid can be saved from inevitable death. After all, nothing will help in the later stages.

Causes of decay

There are a lot of factors leading to the occurrence of rot. We need to look into them in detail.

Mechanical damage

Rot can appear as a result of a fall or injury to a part of the plant. After that, first aid was not provided. The damaged part was not treated with an antiseptic in time, and as a result, the stem rotted.

frostbite

Inexperienced flower growers are careless about watering. They arrange a warm shower for the flower, at the same time the water remains in the axils of the leaves. In the summer, of course, there is nothing to worry about. With high air temperature and bright sun, in a couple of hours there will be no trace of water. That's only if a completely wet plant is placed under the scorching rays of the sun. The result is damage from overheating, which will be similar to the symptoms of hypothermia.

The situation is worse in winter, if the window sill on which the orchid stands is stone, and cold air penetrates through the frame. Then the liquid in the tissue gaps will not evaporate, but will remain for a long time.

Too much moisture in low light

Often, each orchid has its own light limit. Above which it grows and develops, and below which it sleeps. In resting plants, vital processes are suspended, they do not need fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, frequent watering. At this point, the flower does not absorb the same amount of moisture as, for example, in the growth phase, so the excess accumulates and causes decay.

Fungal and bacterial infections

Violation of the parameters of the microclimate in the room leads to the development of infectious diseases. This is also possible if the quarantine regime is not observed. If fungal and bacterial infections are detected, the diseased flower should be urgently isolated from healthy ones, because the infection spreads very quickly.

You can learn more about what to do if the orchid has fusarium, and you can also see a photo of this fungal disease.

The presence of rot on orchids is determined based on the presence of the following symptoms:

• leaves lose elasticity, bright color, tone;
• a brown tint appears at the base of the leaf;
• rapid death of green mass;
• the appearance of dark spots on the neck or trunk;
• brown spots are observed on the inflorescences;
• greenish traces of sporulation can be seen on the walls of the flowerpot;
• loose, unstable upper part of the plant.

What is the best way to process?

Fungicides are considered the most effective drugs for the prevention and treatment of the process of decay. These are means that eliminate pathogens of fungal diseases in representatives of the flora. The ingredients of fungicides are:

• copper;
• manganese;
• Mercury;
• organic matter;
• aldehydes.

Popular pesticides:

1. Fitosporin-M suitable for the treatment of fungal and bacterial diseases.
2. quadrix- a broad-spectrum drug, made on the basis of the substance azoxystrobin, is used for preventive and curative purposes.
3. blue vitriol based on copper sulfate, a positive effect is observed after 3 hours.
4. Mikosan useful in the initial stages of the development of the disease, activates the work of lectins, stimulates the immune system.
5. Bordeaux liquid, also made on the basis of a solution of copper. It also contains lime to reduce the acidity of the soil.

If the flower has minor damage, that is, the infection is in the initial stages, then you can use folk remedies:

• iodine solution. Dilute 5 drops of the substance in 5 liters of water, spray the plant once a week.
• Garlic tincture. Infuse 100 g of garlic husks in 10 liters of warm water for a day.
• Mustard infusion. 50 g of mustard powder is poured into 5 liters of hot liquid. This mixture is worth 2 days in a dark place, diluted with water 1: 1 before use.

At later stages, it will not cope in any way without chemistry. Of course, folk methods are easy to perform, neither toxic nor harmful, but not always effective. They can be used as a preventive measure.

Instructions on what to do depending on the affected part of the plant

Orchids are quite susceptible to all kinds of diseases. Therefore, it is important to immediately recognize the signs in order to understand what to do if the growth point, core or neck at the base of the leaf rots. Unfortunately, representatives of the Orchid family are often affected by rot. This is directly related to the wrong conditions of detention.

The first step is to determine the cause of the disease. If mechanical damage, overheating, or hypothermia is to blame, then it is not necessary to isolate the plant. If there is a peduncle with buds, it should be cut off, leaving part of the stem with 2-3 buds.

What to do if the growing point is rotten? Treatment will be as follows:

1. Remove all damaged fabric so that there are no dark spots anywhere.
2. Disinfect cuts.
3. For infectious diseases in the orchid, or as a precaution against infection, topical fungicides should be applied.
4. Regularly inspect the diseased flower to see if the decay process has resumed.
5. The buds on the peduncle can be treated with cytokinin hormone paste to stimulate the appearance of babies.

Core

In order to prevent the rot from spreading inside the flower, prompt measures should be taken:

1. Remove all rotten places to living tissue.
2. It is possible to remove the entire core.
3. After each cut, treat the tool with alcohol.
4. Burn the wounds with iodine or brilliant green, ground cinnamon, activated charcoal.
5. Monitor the condition of the plant.
6. If after a while you notice the appearance of new rot, then repeat the stripping procedure.

Neck

Symptoms of rot: leaves turn yellow, fall off the neck of the stem. Visually, the disease is difficult to see, because decay occurs in the neck itself.

• frequent watering;
• long nailing of roots in wet soil;
• low ambient temperature.

1. Prepare a sharp blade and disinfect.
2. We cut off the entire rotten part of the neck to living tissue.
3. We clean the cuts with a blade.
4. Treat the soil and the plant with a 0.2% solution of the drug Fundazol or Topsin. Pour the drug directly into the wound of the plant.
5. The procedure is carried out at least three times with an interval of 2 weeks.
6. We put the pot in its original place, we expect the appearance of a side baby.

For the first time after amputation, be sure to adhere to the following recommendations:

• Maintaining a comfortable temperature in summer: + 22-25ºС, in winter + 16-18ºС. The difference in temperature differences should not exceed 5ºС. At temperatures above + 25 ° C and high humidity, fungal infections develop, and at temperatures below + 15 ° C - bacterial infections.
• Humidity within 50-60%.
• In the first week, do not water, and then 1 time in 7-10 days, in between the soil should dry out completely.
• Be sure to remove stagnant water in the leaf axils after watering.
• Exclude the use of mineral preparations.
• Lighting is required diffused, not bright.
• Ventilate the room regularly, but cold air should not fall on the orchid.

It is important for all orchid lovers to remember: the plant is exposed to the disease only in a weakened state. When an exotic flower has good immunity, he is not afraid of anything. Follow the basic rules for care, then you do not have to take emergency measures.

Related videos

Watch a video on what to do if the core of an orchid has rotted:

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Rot in orchids is one of the possible diseases that occurs mainly due to either improper watering or pest infestation. Many are sure that the orchid is one of the most whimsical plants to care for. But it's not. It is enough to maintain comfortable conditions (temperature 22-26 degrees, humidity 40% -60%, illumination with soft diffused light for 8-10 hours or more) so that the plant pleases with health and abundant flowering. But even in this case, sometimes it is not possible to avoid the appearance of rot on the orchid.

Let's look at what diseases can affect a plant and lead to rotting of the leaves, stem or root system. In addition, we will talk in detail about what types of rot can appear on a plant and how to deal with them.

Causes and signs of rot in orchids

The causes and signs of rot in orchids need to be known to determine the disease and subsequent treatments. Outwardly, it is very easy to determine that the stem or leaves are rotting. It is not difficult to identify root rot if the plant grows in a transparent pot, that is, when the root system is in sight. If colored ceramic or plastic with a pattern (not transparent and not translucent) are used, then the disease can be detected only during a detailed examination or during transplantation.

Note! If leaves or stems rot, then this usually happens at their base (in leaflets, this is the base of the neck). Usually, you can first notice the appearance of small specks or yellowing of the plant element. In addition, elasticity decreases significantly, green foci of sporulation appear. As a result, the upper part becomes unstable. The localization of the problem may differ depending on the rot, but dark spots with a pink or yellow halo usually appear.

The main reasons for the appearance of rot include the following:

1. Wrong care. It may consist in a violation of the irrigation system (the plant is watered too much or not enough), optimal humidity (more often rot appears at an elevated level) and temperature (low temperature is mainly the cause, but there may be exceptions).
2. Damage to the plant by a fungus or bacterial infection.
3. Lack of sunlight. Illumination with soft diffused light should be at least 8-10 hours a day.
4. Using too fine a substrate. This leads to increased soil density, due to which moisture evaporates poorly and water stagnates.
5. Use of fertilizers in excessive quantities. The plant may well get a burn, which will provoke various diseases, if you use inappropriate types of top dressing or in significant quantities.
6. Damage to the flower by pests (for example, click beetles), which leads to problems with the root system and the subsequent development of rot.

Remember that you need to maintain comfortable conditions for the growth of the plant and monitor its well-being. This will ensure that problems can be avoided.

Common types of rot

Common types of rot are presented in large numbers. You need to know what exactly the plant is affected for effective treatment. The main types of rot include the following, shown in the table. The reasons for the appearance of each type of rot and symptoms are also indicated there.

Type of rot	Reasons for the appearance	Symptoms and signs of the disease
Fusarium, or Fusarium rot. Keep in mind that Fusarium is of two types: oxysporum (affects the roots and lower part of the stem) and moniliforme (affects the stem, leaves, flowers and peduncles).	The cause of the appearance is a fungal infection. It develops in a favorable environment (low soil temperature, excessive fertilization with a high nitrogen content, excessive watering or spraying too often, pest damage or improper transplantation, high salinity or acidity of the soil, irregular drying of the substrate.	The first sign is the appearance of dust spots that have a purple hue. It is in them that spores begin to form (if there are other plants nearby, they will also get sick). The main symptoms include the appearance of areas of redness or yellowing, blackened and depressed places (very similar in appearance to a burn), softening and darkening of the stem, and the spread of spores throughout all elements of the plant.
Wet bacterial rot.	The reason for the appearance is bacteria (they belong to the genera erwinia and gladioli). For them, a favorable environment is excessively warm and humid conditions (elevated temperature and humidity). A plant can become infected through water, a substrate, from neighboring diseased plants, and also through the air (rare, but it occurs).	Keep in mind that rot affects different varieties of orchids in different ways. Spotting appears on cattleya, oncidium, epidendrum (it is yellow-brown, uneven and yellow), which gradually covers the entire leaf and changes its color to brown. On Paphiopedilum, bacterial rot manifests itself in the form of brown spots, which first affect the edges of the leaves, and then, moving along the veins, affect the entire area (the boundaries of the spot are always clear). Yellow-brown spots appear on phalaenopsis (as the disease develops, the spots increase), which over time destroy the structure of the plant element, and a yellowish liquid is released from the spots.
Phytophthora and patio	The reason for the appearance is fungal pathogens. Their development occurs at high humidity and low temperature. A distinctive feature of the fungus is the high speed of movement of spores between plants through the air. The disease usually manifests itself in the range of one to ten days.	Phytophthora and patio appear the same, and the symptoms depend on the orchid variety. In phalaenopsis, the root system is first affected, then the stems and leaves suffer. Dark spots appear on the roots, which affect the root system to the very leaf rosette, if no action is taken. Leaves rot from the middle. Also, these types of diseases can manifest themselves in the form of wet spots, which gradually turn yellow and blacken, as a result, rotting areas appear.
black rot	This disease is one of the most common. You can detect the problem as early as twelve hours after the defeat. The reasons for the appearance include constant overheating of the root system, excessive nitrogen content in the fertilizers used, an increased level of humidity in the room where the flower grows, and the use of an excessively dense substrate.	First, young shoots are affected, on which slippery spots with a black coating appear. Paphiopedilum and Cattleya orchids are especially susceptible to the disease.
Gray rot	The reasons for the appearance include an increased level of humidity, dampness of the soil and cold air in the room where the flower grows.	The disease is evidenced by dark spots, which are covered with a gray dry coating. The plant quickly weakens and dies.
brown rot	This is a bacterial disease. It manifests itself with excessive humidity and low temperature. Also, the reasons include abundant watering, the use of poor-quality or unsuitable substrate for the orchid.	First, the root system suffers. The roots darken, and eventually begin to rot. Later, the problem spreads to the leaves, which acquire a brown tint. Orchid varieties such as miltonia, cymbidium, paphiopedilium are most susceptible to such a disease.

All these types of rot are the most common. It is they who in most cases affect the plant. Next, we will analyze the methods of treatment that are rational to use in accordance with the type of rot (an example of a rotting plant in the photo).

How to cure an orchid?

How to cure an orchid? To do this, you need to know the type of rot. More information can be found in the table.

Type of rot	Treatment Methods
Fusarium	If rot is found in any of the areas, you need to act immediately. You can only cope at the very beginning. So, you need to cut off the affected areas, capturing up to two centimeters of healthy tissue. Slices should be treated with ground cinnamon or crushed activated charcoal (an antiseptic, brilliant green or iodine is also suitable). Next, the cut sites are dried for twenty minutes. After that, you can not wet the places that were cut off for at least one week. Additionally, the plant should be treated with a fungicide (can be treated every three to four days), but if there is no improvement, then the plant cannot be saved, and it is better to throw it away to exclude the possibility of infecting others. It is imperative to replace the substrate, the plant is treated with a fungicide before planting. Then, for two to three weeks, the plant is watered with a weak solution of the fungicide (diluted according to the instructions), but only under the roots (cannot be sprayed). The plant pot should be installed in a dry and warm place. The duration of treatment is three months, during which it is necessary to maintain quarantine. In the absence of improvements, the plant is discarded. Remember: if about 70% -80% of the plant is affected by spores, it cannot be saved.
Wet bacterial rot.	For treatment, fungicides are used, which contain a high content of copper (Bordeaux liquid is excellent). In addition, it is advisable to make sure that the composition contains such medicinal solutions as myomycin, phytobacteriomycin, streptomycin, chloramphenicol, tetracycline. Rotted areas of plant elements must be cut off with a sharp, disinfected device. Next, the cut sites are treated (brilliant green, iodine) and dried. Remember that it is useless to use ground cinnamon, crushed activated charcoal, an antiseptic in this case, since rot develops from the core of the leaf or stem.
Phytophthora and patio	The only way to treat is to trim the affected areas with a sharp, disinfected device. Moreover, this should be done as early as possible, since diseases in record time affect the entire plant. Next, the sections are treated with crushed coal, ground cinnamon, brilliant green or iodine. After that, the flower must be treated with a strong fungicide containing propamocarb and metalaxyl-M for patio or metalaxyl-M, dimesomorph and fosetil for phytophthora. During treatment, quarantine must be observed (keep the flower separate from others) for three months. If there is no improvement, the plant will have to be discarded to avoid infecting other indoor flowers.
black rot	First, the plant should be isolated from others. Next, the rotting areas are removed by trimming with a sharp disinfected device, followed by processing the sections with ground cinnamon or crushed activated charcoal. Additionally, fungicides can be used, but not any. A good choice is Bordeaux liquid. Prepare for long-term treatment, as the fungus is the most difficult to treat.
Gray rot	In order to cure the plant, you need to remove the rotting areas (cut off and treat the cuts with cinnamon). Next, you need to soak the plant in a weak fungicide solution, transplant into a fresh substrate and ensure that living conditions are comfortable for the plant.
brown rot	Treatment consists in cutting off the affected parts and treating the cut sites with ground cinnamon (before that, the cut areas can be soaked in a fungicide solution). The plant must be transplanted into a quality substrate. Next, normalize the irrigation system and ensure that conditions are comfortable for the plant.

In general, we can distinguish a consistent treatment algorithm that needs to be guided. So, when you find a problem, proceed as follows:

1. Isolate a large plant from others, for example, by moving it to another room or sending it to a greenhouse. The minimum duration of quarantine is three weeks, but it is better to withstand at least three months.
2. Pruning of all affected areas. Use a tool that is sharp and disinfected with alcohol or other antiseptic. During trimming, you need to capture about two to three centimeters of healthy tissue. If any element of the plant (leaf, flower, peduncle, etc.) is severely affected, it is cut off completely.
3. Processing of cuts. You can use ground cinnamon, crushed activated charcoal, antiseptic. Iodine or brilliant green is also suitable, but it is better to dilute them before use in equal amounts with water.
4. Drying the cuts. The procedure usually takes about twenty to thirty minutes. After that, the treated areas should not be wetted for one week.
5. With the penetration of rot into the stem, you can use folk remedies. It is necessary to cut the orchid in a sore spot (use only sharp and disinfected devices), clean the rot, and treat the plant area, for example, with soapy water (1 tablespoon of soap in the form of shavings is diluted in one liter of water), tincture of the thyroid gland (10 grams of dry or 100 grams of a fresh plant per liter of water, from which a decoction is made and insisted for a day, the affected area of ​​​​the orchid should be wiped twice a week), onion or citrus decoction (you will need 100 grams of any citrus peel or 100 grams of onion peel, which is brewed in one liter of water and insist for three days, the treatment is carried out by spraying).
6. Plant treatment with fungicides (for example, Fitolavin, Aktara, Confidor, Inta-Vir, etc.). It is carried out strictly according to the instructions. These drugs are good because they can destroy rot and prevent its further occurrence. But remember that remedies are powerless against fungal infection. In some cases (with the most extensive lesions), it is rational to use more toxic drugs, for example, Karbofos, Aktellik, Vertimek, etc.
7. Disinfection of the place where the plant stood. The shelf or window sill must be washed with warm water and a small amount of detergent. The pot is also disinfected. For all other orchids, preventive treatment should be carried out, preventing the possible development of the disease.

Now you know what to do when any kind of rot is found. In most cases, the flower can be saved, especially if the problem is detected in the early stages. If less than 80% of the plant has suffered or at least one eighth of the root system remains, then proceed in accordance with the algorithm described above - and, most likely, it will be possible to “revive” the dying plant.

In addition, you can pay attention to the video, which details what to do if the orchid rots.

Prevention measures

Prevention measures are a must for any grower who wants his orchids to please with health and abundant flowering. So, follow these guidelines:

1. Watering should be carried out exclusively under the roots. Try to prevent drops of moisture from entering the leaf axils and flowers.
2. If you are worried that rot may appear on the plant, then you can lay orange peels on top of the substrate. This is an excellent tool for the prevention of disease.
3. Provide the flower with the right nutrition. To do this, you should purchase exclusively specialized liquid fertilizers for orchids. Pay special attention to the nitrogen content. This substance is useful for orchids only if its percentage in top dressing does not exceed 14% -16%.
4. Set up an irrigation system. It should be moderate. It is enough to water the flower once a week. In summer, you can increase the number of waterings up to two times a week, and in winter, reduce to once every 10-14 days. Avoid getting drops of moisture into the leaf axils and flowers. You can spray the plant (as needed).
5. The room where the orchid stands should be regularly ventilated. At the same time, exclude drafts from entering the plant.
6. Regularly inspect the flower for damage or disease.
7. The orchid needs to be repotted every two to three years to maintain the freshness and quality of the substrate. When it is oxidized, there is a high probability of problems with the flower.
8. Take care of enough light for the plant - at least 8-10 hours of soft diffused lighting.
9. Wipe the orchid vegetative mass monthly with a weak antiseptic solution.

Now you know what to do if rot is found on the orchid. Choose the right way to fight, than to process in order to save the plant. Remember that almost always any variety of orchid (phalaenopsis, cattleya, ascocenda, vanda, cymbidium, dendrobium, etc.) can be saved if you act quickly. Take care of your plants so that they please with beauty, abundant flowering and health.

If the epiphyte is healthy, then its roots are dense and smooth, while having a grayish-green color.

The following symptoms may indicate the disease:

All these are early signs of putrefactive diseases of orchids. With initial resuscitation, the flower can be brought back to life. But first it is worth finding out for what reason the orchid began to die.

What parts of the plant can be affected?

Often the rotting process extends to the core, leaves or root system.

Leaves

Diseases such as gray rot, leaf spot, powdery mildew, and viral diseases most often lead to decay processes.

Root

due to improper watering. This is the main reason among all considered. In second place is a rare transplant of orchids. Old soil does not allow air to pass to the root system, and moisture stagnation occurs there. And as a result, the root of the plant rotted.

We offer you to watch a video about what the affected plant looks like and what are the reasons for its infection:

A photo

The photo shows what black and gray rot looks like on orchids.

What are the reasons?

Always at the beginning of putrefactive processes in an orchid flower, it is necessary to find out the cause of this circumstance. Then it will be clear by what means to treat black or gray rot.

Several reasons for rotting:

1. Lack of sunlight, when moisture does not evaporate well and water stagnates in the soil.
2. Crushing the soil, due to this it becomes dense and heavy, in this case, moisture also evaporates poorly, water stagnates.
3. If the root area is damaged during transplantation, then an infection can penetrate through such wounds.
4. The defeat of the orchid by a fungal disease.
5. Another reason why your flower began to rot is an overdose of chemical fertilizers when feeding a flower, as a result, the plant receives a chemical burn.
6. An attack on an orchid by click beetles that feed on the plant's root system.

Often, such problems occur in the autumn-winter period, it is at this time that it is important to reduce the amount of watering the plant, but inexperienced flower growers continue to do this. As a result, the orchid rots.

Under natural conditions, the orchid grows in places with frequent tropical showers.. Rainwater does not contain as many heavy elements and salts as is present in groundwater, and then flows out of taps in apartments.

Such water is capable of burning the root system of orchids, as well as busting with chemical fertilizers.

As a result, the roots burn, and this causes decay processes.

What to process?

Chemicals

How to treat an orchid, including from gray and black rot, with the help of chemicals? Often, the orchid is sick due to various pests.. Chemical agents will help restore the health of your favorite flower.

But you should not use these substances in too large quantities, you need to use them carefully and within reasonable limits. It is necessary to try to choose drugs with a low (3-4 class) threshold of danger.

When purchasing medicines for orchids, you should always follow the instructions that come with the product.

The most popular plant chemicals are:

1. Fitoverm.
2. "Inta-Vir".
3. "Actara".
4. "Confidor".

More toxic substances that are used for serious orchid diseases include:

1. "Vertimek".
2. Karbofos.
3. "Actellik".

Folk

Folk methods of combating orchid diseases are also effective, it is worth considering the most effective of them.

Step-by-step instructions on what to do if certain parts of the flower are rotten?

Sheet

If rot appeared on the leaves, then this means that some problem needs to be fixed. For example, in winter, remove the plant away from the battery.

But at the same time, daylight in the room should be enough. You need to check the orchid tray, maybe moisture has accumulated there. Bordeaux liquid or fungicide is suitable for spraying the leaves. Regular feeding with complex fertilizers for orchids is also important.

Root

What to do if the root of the plant begins to rot? It is necessary to remove the plant from the pot and remove all dead and rotten roots. You can recognize them by their brown, gray or yellow tint. Sick roots are cut along the living part, otherwise the rot will begin to spread further. The cut sites are treated with brilliant green or activated charcoal solution..

If most of the roots have been removed, then the plant is immersed in water that is warm and well filtered. You need to change the water every day, while you need to dry the root well. The room itself should be well lit, and the air temperature should be within 25 degrees.

Stem and peduncle

If the trunk and peduncle rot, how to save them?

The stem and peduncle begin to rot usually before other parts of the flower.. Therefore, immediate action should be taken. It is necessary to immediately treat the soil and the root system with a 0.3% composition of foundationazole or a 0.2% mixture of benlat. Most often, the orchid is completely lowered into this substance. This is not done often, about every 2 weeks.

We offer you to watch a video about the treatment of orchids from rot:

When the plant can no longer be saved?

If all the necessary measures do not give the desired result, most likely the flower can no longer be saved. In this case, his it is better to immediately isolate the orchid from other plants so that infection does not occur.

If all the roots of an orchid have rotted, then in this case it is necessary to make every effort to try to reanimate the rotten plant as quickly as possible.

All rotten roots should be removed, and the outlet should be treated with any root system growth stimulator. Further, the method of placing the plant in warm water was described above, so it is worth dwelling on another method of fighting for the restoration of a half-dead orchid. This is the placement of the plant in a mini-greenhouse.

To do this, steamed sphagnum is placed in a small bowl. A layer of expanded clay is poured under the bottom. The substrate is moistened, and the affected outlet is laid out on it.

Now the pot is installed in a mini-greenhouse, where the following conditions must be present:

1. The air temperature should be between 22 and 28 degrees Celsius.
2. Lighting should be maintained 12-14 hours a day.
3. At least 70% humidity.

The soil is periodically moistened, and the room is ventilated. In addition, you should regularly check the outlet for new rot. If everything is done correctly, then in a couple of weeks new roots will begin to grow. When their length reaches 4-5 cm, the flower is placed in its previous conditions.

In order for the plant not to get sick again, it will need competent care.

Firstly, the correct temperature regime is created, and secondly, watering with skill is provided. Besides, the orchid should be regularly treated with fungicides.

From the above, we can conclude that such a beautiful plant as an orchid is very capricious in its care. To admire its flowering, you need to work hard. It is important to choose a suitable place in the house, knowing how to properly water and fertilize a flower. It is equally important to constantly observe the flower, inspect every part of it. Only then can various orchid diseases be avoided.