How to grow a philodendron at home. Features of growing philodendron by seed method Rooting cuttings and air layering

Philodendrons often decorate apartments. They are hardy and grow quickly with minimal care. The leaves look very original. The variety of varieties suitable for home conditions allows you to create a whole island of greenery, ideal for relaxing after a hard day's work.

plant description

Philodendron (Philodendron) is a genus of perennial evergreen plants from the aroid family. About 900 species found in nature are described, not counting hybrids bred by selection. The homeland of the philodendron is the tropical rainforests of South and Central America, islands in the Caribbean. There are especially many of them in Mexico. From these territories, seafarers brought them to Australia, Oceania and Southeast Asia, where new species arose.

Monstera is a close relative of the philodendron.

There are two groups of philodendrons: vines and non-vines, which are called tree forms.. Most of the plants of the second group are large, and all of them have notched leaves. Therefore, it is difficult to grow them in a room; they are more suitable for the halls of public buildings or for a greenhouse.

In their natural environment, philodendron vines grow up to 200 meters or more in length.

Literally translated from Greek, "philodendron" means "loving a tree." This is a completely fair characterization. Most of them are climbing epiphytic plants, using tree trunks as support. The "owner" does not suffer in any way.

In nature, philodendrons are much larger than "in captivity"

In order to cling to the trunks, philodendrons release short thin aerial roots covered with small hairs. Other aerial roots, longer and thicker, the plant uses to absorb nutrition and moisture.

If there is no tree near where the seed spawned, the philodendron will curl on the ground. But not in any randomly chosen direction, but focusing on the nearest shadow. This is how the plant "knows" the location of something that can be used as a support. Until the philodendron has reached its goal, its internodes are long. Then they contract sharply and get fatter.

Philodendron without support is a solid carpet of foliage

Tree-like philodendrons are easy to distinguish from other aroids. Leaves of two types are arranged in strict order on plants. The first is similar to a scale, covers the second, located on the petiole. As the plant matures, the leaves gradually fall off, leaving a bare stem.

In adult plants, on lignified stems, traces of fallen leaves are clearly visible.

The shape of the leaves is the most diverse - ovoid, pinnate, heart-shaped, oval, arrow-shaped, fan-shaped. To the touch they are dense, leathery, located on long petioles. Under natural conditions, the leaves can be more than 2 m in length. Moreover, young and old leaves on the same plant can be completely different from each other. This has led to the fact that it is still not possible to determine the exact number of philodendron species.

Philodendron vines differ in shape and color, as well as the size of the leaves.

The color of the leaf plate also varies significantly. But below it is always lighter than above. Philodendron inflorescence - an ear up to 20 cm long, wrapped in a continuous petal-veil. The coloration is varied, but invariably two-tone. White, yellowish, scarlet are repeated. After flowering, berries ripen.

At home, making a philodendron bloom is almost impossible.

Certain areas of the inflorescence can heat up to a temperature of 10-12ºС higher than the ambient temperature. The mechanism of this phenomenon is still unclear to botanists.

On the inflorescence of a philodendron, the flowers are arranged in a strict order.

Philodendron has a beneficial effect on the atmosphere in the room in which it is located. The plant emits volatile substances, phytoncides, which purify the air from many pathogenic microbes and bacteria. These same substances have a positive effect on the health of those living in the apartment, especially in the presence of cardiovascular diseases and problems with blood pressure.

Any work with the philodendron should be carried out only with gloves. Like all aroids, the leaves, stems and shoots of the plant contain a thick, caustic white juice. If it comes into contact with skin or mucous membranes, this substance can cause severe burns. For the same reason, keep philodendron pots out of the reach of children and pets..

What species can be kept at home

Philodendron is ideal for home gardening. But this does not apply to all types, but only to those that have suitable sizes. Some plants simply do not fit into the apartment. But they look great in greenhouses and lobbies of large buildings.

Table: spear-shaped philodendron, climbing, Xanadu and other popular varieties

name of the philodendron variety	Description
Spear-shaped, or domestic (domesticum)	Liana with bright green glossy arrow-shaped leaves 35-40 cm long. It grows quickly and easily, needs support.
Blushing (erubescens)	Liana about 1.5 m long. New leaves and petioles have a reddish sheen, becoming olive with age. Leaf length - 15–20 cm. Is the basis for more than 20 breeding hybrids. The most common are Red Emerald (more compact than the parent), Burgundy (wine-red leaves even in adult plants), Medusa (bright yellow leaves contrast beautifully with scarlet petioles and stem).
Climbing (clinging), or sharp-hearted (scandens)	Shoots are thin, up to 2 m long. The leaves are heart-shaped. The leaf length is 12–15 cm. Even against the background of relatives, it stands out for its unpretentiousness.
Scaly (squamiferum)	The presence of a lignified stem with age is characteristic. In young plants, it casts reddish. The leaves are carved, with reddish-brown veins. Petioles are hairy. Aerial roots are most often in their infancy.
Sello, or Zello (selloum)	The stem is high (about 2 m), straight. The plant resembles a tree. Leaf shape - arrow-shaped, dissected. Length - 85–95 cm.
Sodiro (Sodiroi)	The shape of the leaf resembles a heart. Length - 18–20 cm. On the upper side of the leaf plate, whitish-green spots of irregular shape are randomly located. The Philodendron Sodiro is often confused with the Ornate Philodendron.. The shade of the spots on the leaves is almost the same. But the leaf plate of the decorated philodendron is much darker, and the pattern is clearer. Philodendron Sodiro has a blurred pattern.
Warty (verrucasum)	Climbing vine with very decorative heart-shaped leaves. Petioles are bright purple or crimson. The leaf is velvety to the touch, with spots of the shade of old bronze. Along the side veins are light green stripes.
Graceful (elegans), or narrowly dissected (angustisectum)	The stem is thick. In adult plants - at least 8-10 cm in diameter. Branching is absent. Young leaves are pale green, lanceolate, with prominent notches (about 20 cm long). Adults are about three times larger, ovoid, dissected.
Black gold (melanochrysum)	A climbing vine with thin shoots that break easily and short internodes. Length - about 10 cm, then they increase 7-8 times, the shape changes to lanceolate. The leaf plate is bronze-black, along the veins and along the edge there is a narrow pale golden (almost white) border. The reddish tint remains below. Grows very slowly. At home, growing this species is problematic.
Lobular (laciniatum)	The leaves are shaped like a spearhead, dissected. The length of the leaf with petiole is about 45 cm.
Lisemann (lisemannii)	Large leaves (up to 40 cm in length). The upper side of the leaf plate is covered with randomly arranged greenish, white and grayish strokes and spots.
Marcius (martianum), or cannolist	Mistakenly called Martin's philodendron. A characteristic feature is an extremely short or missing trunk. The leaves are large (55–60 cm), thick, leathery, entire.
Decorated (ornatum)	From above, the leaf plate is covered with a light gray-green pattern. Petiole with small growths, as if in warts. This variety is often confused with epipremnum (scindapsus). Both plants belong to the aroid family, but the sap of the philodendron has a characteristic resinous smell, which is absent in the scindapsus. The philodendron leaf is softer and can be easily rolled into a tube.
Eichler (eichleri)	Liana with very large (about 1 m long and about 60 cm wide) arrow-shaped leaves.
Double-pinnate (bippinatifidum)	Climbing creepers. The leaves are narrow, but long (up to 90 cm), arrow-shaped, whole or dissected into 10 or more lobes, green. The trunk is short and thick.
Guitar-shaped (panduriforme)	Liana, growing to a height of 2 meters and therefore requiring support. The leaves are deep-lobed, have a characteristic "waist", similar to a guitar.
Xanadu (xanadu)	A tree-like plant, the dissected leaves of which under natural conditions reach 1.5 meters in length.
Ivy (hederaceum)	Depending on the conditions, it can look completely different. Young leaves are hairy to the touch, with a reddish tint below. If you make the flower grow vertically upwards, these signs disappear.
Drop-bearing (guttiferum)	Creeping liana with small (12-15 cm) oblong leaves with a sharp tip. If forced to grow vertically, the leaves will double in size. In indoor floriculture, hybrids Cobra and Lemon Lime (aka Goldie Lock) derived from it are most often found with brighter leaf colors and patterns.
Imperial Red	Characterized by a thick stem with short internodes. The leaves, which is very atypical for philodendrons, form a rosette about 1 m in diameter. Their color is dark red, almost burgundy. There is also a variety with bright green leaves - Imperial Green (Imperial Green).
atom	Compact houseplant with glossy leaves. The variety has a high decorative effect due to the wavy five-lobed shape of the leaves.
Radiant (radiatum)	It has medium-sized green leaves with a deeply wavy edge. Unpretentious appearance, grows easily and quickly.

Photo gallery: types of philodendron with different leaf shapes

Philodendron Imperial Red
Philodendron drop-bearing Cobra
Philodendron ivy
Philodendron Xanadu
Philodendron bipinnate
philodendron decorated
Philodendron Martina
Philodendron black-gold
Philodendron lobed
Philodendron graceful
Philodendron Sodiro
Philodendron Sello
Philodendron scaly
Philodendron blushing
Philodendron warty
Philodendron Eichler
Philodendron guitarus
Philodendron Red Emerald
climbing philodendron
Philodendron Liesemann
home philodendron
Philodendron atom
Philodendron radiata

How to create the right microclimate for a flower at home - table

Factor	Optimal conditions
Location	Remove the plant from a place where there are drafts and where it can get direct sunlight. The window sill of a south-facing window will not work.
Lighting	Philodendron prefers diffused light. Varieties with green leaves can exist even in partial shade, but this is unacceptable for variegated plants. In the shade, the plant stretches, the leaves become smaller and turn pale. The climbing and blushing philodendrons are best tolerated by the absence of light.
Temperature	The plant does not tolerate heat well. The optimum temperature in summer is not higher than 25 ºС. "Cold weather" below 12-15 ºС philodendron will not survive. The flower reacts extremely negatively to sudden changes in temperature.
Air humidity	The plant needs to create high humidity, at the level of 85-90%. In the heat, additionally spray the philodendron several times a day, wipe the leaves with a damp soft cloth. Once every 25-40 days it is useful to give him a warm shower. Also, the flower needs additional moisture in winter - radiators dry the air a lot. Buy a dedicated humidifier.
The presence of a support	Young philodendrons can do without props, but adults are in dire need of it. It is provided by nature. Give preference to structures made of wood or supports wrapped in natural coconut fiber, and best of all, hollow tubes filled with sphagnum moss. After all, metal and plastic cannot be constantly maintained in a moist state.

Philodendron definitely needs support - this way you save space

Landing and transplant

An adult plant does not need frequent transplantation. Carry out the procedure every 3-4 years, when the pot is already small. Young philodendrons (up to 5 years old) should be transplanted every year. Transplanting large philodendrons is fraught with significant difficulties, and sometimes not feasible at all, so you can limit yourself to the annual replacement of the topsoil.

The possibility of transplanting a philodendron directly depends on the size of the plant.

The only suitable time for transplanting is spring. Finding out whether to carry out the procedure this year is simple. Notice the leaves. If they gradually become smaller, then the plant is cramped in a pot. The shape of the new philodendron pot should be high and 5–8 cm larger than the old one in diameter.. A drainage layer with a thickness of at least 3-5 cm must be placed on the bottom.

You should not take a pot "for growth", hoping that this way you will have to replant the plant less often. In this case, it is very easy not to calculate with watering.

The main requirement for the soil is lightness and breathability. At the same time, the soil must be nutritious. The best option is a slightly acidic or neutral soil. It is best to prepare the substrate yourself, taking as a basis specially designed for orchids. To it, add a glass of coarse river sand, dry peat and humus per liter.

Philodendrons grow well in hydroponics.

Other soil options:

• Soddy soil mixed in equal proportions, universal soil for indoor plants, humus, dry peat and river sand. For every 2 liters of soil, a glass of charcoal crushed into crumbs is added.
• Sod land, leaf humus, dry peat and sand in a ratio of 3:2:1:0.5.

Think in advance which design option to choose. The interior will be wonderfully decorated with a composition that reproduces the natural habitat of these plants: philodendrons on a support grow especially luxuriantly and densely. Supports can be bought or made independently from a wooden handle, wrapping it with a suitable natural material - strips of moss, coconut fiber (sometimes referred to as a washcloth). The most advantageous alternative is a hollow plastic tube of medium diameter with drilled holes or a plastic mesh rolled into a tube filled with soil or sphagnum moss. On such a support, the shoots of the philodendron will not only be fixed, but also take root.

Creepers look no less impressive in hanging pots. In order for the leaves to form a continuous lush bush, periodically pinch the tops of the shoots.

If the room cannot boast of dimensions, hang flowers in a flower pot from the ceiling

The transfer process looks like this:

1. Remove the philodendron from the pot. Do not shake off the earth from the roots. They are very easy to damage, then the plant will die.
2. Pour a layer of soil about 5 cm thick into a pot with drainage.
3. Place an earthen ball removed from an old pot on the ground, and securely fasten the support next to it.
4. Top up the soil. It should not reach the top edge of the pot by 1-2 cm. Make sure that the support does not warp.
5. Water the plant generously.

Video: philodendron transplant

Essential care at home

Philodendron is relatively unpretentious. There is no pronounced dormant period. Pay the most attention to watering and fertilizing.

Watering

Philodendron is very moisture-loving. From early spring to mid-autumn, the plant needs abundant watering. In winter, it is reduced. Use water only at room temperature and previously settled for at least 6-8 hours. The ideal option is rain or melt water. Water as the soil surface dries out. In the heat, the plant is additionally sprayed 1-2 times a day. In winter, keep the soil slightly moist. Do not let her move away from the edges of the pot.

top dressing

In the phase of intensive growth (spring and summer), once every 15–20 days, fertilize with a solution of universal liquid fertilizers for indoor ornamental foliage plants. For very large specimens, double the number of feedings. In winter, on the contrary, once a month is enough. The content of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in fertilizers should be approximately equal. Suitable Kemira-Lux, Agricola, Master, Bona-Forte, Floris, Orton Flower, Ideal. If, in your opinion, the plant is overgrown, choose fertilizers with a minimum of nitrogen.

Strictly follow the dosage recommended by the manufacturer. Overfed philodendron turns yellow, wilts, leaves fall off. You can get rid of excess minerals by immersing the pot in a container of water. When the soil is well saturated, let the liquid drain. Repeat 2-3 more times.

Do not feed a newly transplanted plant for six months.

For philodendrons grown in greenhouses or greenhouses, add humus to the soil in the middle of summer at the rate of 1 liter for every 15 liters of soil in a pot.

pruning

For greater decorativeness and “bushiness”, pinch off about a quarter of the tips of the shoots that have reached a length of about 50 cm. Then the plant will begin to branch more intensively. "Pruning" use as cuttings. It is strictly forbidden to cut aerial roots. Better direct them towards the pot. Over time, they will reach the ground.

Problems and solutions

Flower growers, especially beginners, are often faced with the fact that the philodendron loses its decorative effect. The reason is individual errors in care.

Table: care errors

Symptoms	Most likely cause
The tips of the leaves turn brown, curl and dry	Insufficiently high humidity.
Small transparent drops on the tips of the leaves	The atmosphere in the room is too humid. At home, the problem is extremely rare. Basically, the "tears" of the philodendron can be observed in greenhouses and greenhouses.
Pale, almost transparent, thinning leaves, faded color	Lack of sunlight and heat.
Dead brown spots on leaves	Philodendron burned by the sun. Move the plant away from direct sunlight.
Rotting shoots at the roots	Excessively moist soil and/or low ground temperature.
Leaves turn yellow, rust	If the leaves turn yellow evenly and massively, this indicates excessive watering and low room temperature. When the yellowness gradually spreads from the tip to the base, the reason is a lack of nutrition.
The lower leaves fall off, the trunk stretches, the internodes lengthen	Insufficiently bright lighting. If the leaves fall off gradually and no other symptoms are observed, this is a natural process. Massively falling leaves - the plant is too hot.
Leaves deformed, not dissected	The reason may be low temperature, and insufficient humidity, and lack of light, and insufficient nutrition.

Diseases and pests

Aroid practically do not suffer from diseases. The reason is poisonous cell sap. But among the pests there are those that the juice does not stop.

Table: aroid pests and control measures

Pest	Symptoms	Prevention and control methods
Shchitovka	Small dull brown growths on the surface of leaves and stems.	Wipe the plant with a thick foam of household or green potassium soap, rinse with hot (45–50 ºС) water after half an hour. If there is no result, strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions, use Aktara, Confidor, Tanrek, Iskra Zolotaya, Karbofos, Admiral, Mospilan preparations. To finally cope with the problem, at least 3 treatments with an interval of 7-10 days are required. Spray not only the plant itself, but also the pot, pallet. It is advisable to carry out the procedure outdoors.
thrips	Thrips are small insects that look like small light dots on the leaves, which gradually merge into large gray-brown spots.	Change the top 8-10 cm of soil. Then treat with Aktara, Confidor, Fitoverm, Inta-Vir, Karbofos, Colorado. It will take 2-3 procedures. The frequency depends on the temperature in the room (it affects the frequency of egg laying). The warmer, the shorter the interval (from 5 to 15 days). Prepare a solution and sprinkle it on the plant, soil, pot, pallet.
spider mite	In the internodes and on the stems of philodendrons, thin threads appear, similar to cobwebs. The leaves wither and fall off.	Give the philodendron a hot shower (temperature above 40 ºС). Once every 3-4 weeks it is also useful for prevention. The efficiency of the treatment will be increased by a thick layer of soap foam previously applied to the leaves and stems. Chemical preparations (acaricides) - Fitoverm, Apollo, Neoron, Aktellik, Bi-58.
Mealybug	White lumps appear on the surface of the leaves and under them, similar to dirty cotton wool.	Collect with your hands all the visible worms. Wipe the flower with a cotton pad moistened with medical alcohol, acetone or kerosene. After 5-10 minutes, pour hot water over it from the shower. If there is no effect, use Aktara, Actellik, Karbofos, Confidor with a frequency of 6-8 days at least 3 times. Spray not only the plant, but also the soil.

Photo gallery: aroid pests

The thinnest cobwebs are almost impossible to notice until the spider mite breeds en masse
The mealybug is easy to identify but difficult to get rid of.
Damage to the plant is caused by both larvae and adults of thrips.
Scale insects are not at all afraid of the poisonous juice of aroid

Video: how to deal with the shield

Reproduction methods

Most often, the philodendron is propagated in the spring by cuttings or air layering. You can also purchase and germinate seeds. It is unlikely that you will be able to get your own seeds, since philodendrons practically do not bloom at home.

We root cuttings and air layering

The optimal time for cuttings is late spring or early summer. Getting cuttings of philodendron is not difficult. Cut off the top of the shoot with 3-4 leaves or take a piece of the trunk with 2-3 internodes. On average, the length of the handle is about 15 cm. If there are aerial roots, this is an additional plus.

A suitable cutting must have leaves and aerial roots.

Rooting procedure:

1. Cut off the selected cuttings with a sharp knife, sprinkle the cuts with powdered activated charcoal and leave in the open air for 3-4 hours.
2. Fill small pots with dry peat and coarse river sand mixed in equal proportions. Moisten the soil well.
3. The cuttings are shallow (2-3 cm) stick into the substrate.

   Some flower growers recommend laying them out on the ground with growth buds up and lightly sprinkle with sand.

4. Cover the pots with plastic bags and seal tightly. You can replace them with glass jars of a suitable volume. The optimum temperature for cuttings is about 30 ºС. Lighting is also important.

   To root faster, use fluorescent lamps.

5. Once every 2-3 days, remove the "greenhouse" for 5-7 minutes to remove the resulting condensate and spray the soil. After a month, start gradually increasing the ventilation time. After 4-5 weeks, remove the cover.
6. After the appearance of 2-3 new leaves, transplant the philodendrons into larger pots and care for them as if they were mature plants.

Reproduction of climbing philodendrons by air layering is carried out according to a similar scheme, with the only difference being that it is not necessary to cut off a part of the stem with aerial roots, it is enough to attach it to the surface of a wet peat substrate in a pot, using a hairpin or digging a little. Over time, when the cutting takes root, you just need to cut it off from the mother plant.

Rooting a leaf without aerial roots and growth points will not work.

Sprouting seeds

Philodendron seeds are sold in stores, the manufacturer indicates their high germination rate - about 80%.

Boarding process:

1. Soak the seeds in a growth stimulant solution (Epin, HB-101, potassium humate) for a day.
2. Prepare containers. Fill them with sterilized sand, moisten the soil well. Level the soil.
3. Spread the seeds on the surface of the soil, sprinkle the substrate.
4. Cover the "greenhouse" with plastic wrap or glass and keep warm.

   The optimum temperature is 28–32 ºС. High humidity and bright light are also important.

5. Air plantings daily for 2-3 minutes. Don't let the soil dry out.
6. The first shoots under optimal conditions can be expected in 1.5–2 months. From now on, accustom the plants to the environment by increasing the opening time of the container.
7. When two true leaves appear, dive the seedlings into separate containers. After another year, transplant the plants again and care as usual.

   Leaves of a characteristic form for the variety will appear only after 2–2.5 years.

Seedlings are transplanted when they have two true leaves.

Since the 19th century, when philodendrons were first grown as greenhouse or houseplants, there have been many signs and beliefs associated with these evergreen inhabitants of the tropics.

Which interesting facts describing the philodendron have a real basis, and which are just idle fiction? How to propagate a flower at home, and what can prevent a grower from growing?

Philodendron: facts, superstitions and signs

Indoor philodendrons belong to one of the largest families of the plant world, Aroids. In addition, the genus of philodendrons itself has more than 900 species, over the description and precise definition of which botanists have been racking their brains for more than 150 years. Everyone who tries to figure out the classification of these plants is faced with incredible confusion, transfers of one species to another, or even removal from the genus.

The reason is the abundance of philodendrons, the difficulty of studying in the jungle of the tropical zone, as well as the amazing variability.

Fun fact: Philodendrons change as they grow older. In most species, "children's", whole heart-shaped leaves are fundamentally different from "adults", which become pinnate, palmate, dissected.

If such behavior of a flower makes life difficult for scientists, then amateur flower growers should only be happy with the original appearance of the plant! However, for many, an important reason for abandoning the philodendron is the belief about its "harmfulness".

You can hear that a decorative leafy philodendron that rarely blooms indoors can “take away” wealth from the house or separate spouses. This is absolute superstition!

If so, philodendrons would long ago have remained only in the silence of the rainforest, and breeders have ceased to please flower growers with variegated varieties and hybrids.

No need to think that a flower predicts the weather if small droplets of moisture appear on its leaves. So the philodendron reacts not to close rains, but to excessive watering.

However, in addition to idle fictions, there is information that is worth listening to. For example, the danger of milky juice that appears on the cut of a stem or leaf. The liquid contains caustic salts. Which can cause skin irritation or itching. This should be remembered when it comes to philodendron propagation, pruning or transplanting.

Reproduction of philodendron

Despite their exotic origin, philodendrons are unpretentious indoor plants that do not require painstaking care and are easy to propagate. The easiest way to get a young flower is to have an adult specimen. Apical and stem cuttings root perfectly and grow quickly.

The main thing to remember when propagating a philodendron vegetatively is:

• use of healthy planting material;
• the presence on the handle of at least two internodes and a node with a viable axillary bud.

It is possible to cut cuttings from a strong plant throughout the warm season, but it is more convenient to do this with a vein, for example, simultaneously with transplantation. So the young philodendron will have more strength to grow and by winter he will have time to give his own shoots and leaves.

The cut is made under the node with the beginnings of aerial roots so that the cutting length is 10–12 cm. At high humidity, under the diffused rays of the sun and temperatures in the range of 22–24 ° C, the philodendron takes root. This plant needs 10 to 25 days.

If you wish, you can wait for the formation of roots by immersing the bottom of the cutting in ordinary water, and then transplant the plant into the ground.

An interesting fact is that philodendrons, which regularly bloom in nature, do not form inflorescences similar to cobs in the house. The reason is that tropical inhabitants do not reach adulthood in a pot culture. If the grower is lucky, and he has seeds at his disposal, then reproduction of the philodendron is also possible in this way. True, the seed is capricious, and you will have to tinker with the seeds.

Sowing is carried out on the surface of light soil, then the seeds are covered with a layer of sphagnum and placed in a room greenhouse. Here, at a temperature of 24–26 ° C, high humidity and in partial shade, sprouts will appear in 30–120 days. Seedlings can be dived and transferred to separate pots at the phase of 2-3 leaves.

Philodendron Cultivation Problems

Non-capricious, if he chooses the right conditions and establishes minimal care, it grows well and pleases the owners with bright lush greenery. However, violation of the established order threatens with troubles.

As a rule, all the problems of philodendron cultivation are associated with a violation of care and optimal conditions for growth. You can recognize trouble by changing the color, size and tone of the leaves:

1. The reduction of leaf plates and their pallor, the stretching of the shoots, the leaves signal a lack of light.
2. Plants respond to excessive watering or lack of moisture by yellowing or browning of the foliage, which gradually dries up and disappears.
3. If a flower is regularly watered but its greens look sluggish, the cause may be an excess of light or root rot. In addition, the active summer sun is the cause of real burns, on which the tissues die and dry.
4. Root rot, often caused by cold or drafts, results in brown or black spots on the leaves.
5. Being in dry air, the philodendron begins to deform the leaves, rolling them up with a boat.

In order for the plant to always be healthy and beautiful, one should not forget about top dressing, timely transplantation into properly selected soil.

Philodendron is an ornamental leafy plant of the Aroid family, which is grown at home. Philodendrons are vines and ordinary vertically growing plants. Read about the features of growing, feeding, transplanting and propagating a flower below.

Philodendron leaves are plain or spotted.

The genus of evergreen perennial philodendrons includes more than 200 species. Translated from the Greek, the name of the plant sounds like "loves trees." And this is no coincidence, because in nature a plant living in tropical forests often looks like a liana and chooses strong trees for support.

Most varieties form thick aerial roots, like monstera. They help the flower to cling to the support and reach for the light. Also, with the help of them, the plant receives nutrients and moisture.

Philodendrons can vary greatly in leaf appearance. Large shiny leaves are dissected or heart-shaped, have a different color - from dark green to brown-red. Lianas have long thin stems, while other species have shortened ones.

Some varieties bloom even at home. It is worth noting that the sap of the plant is poisonous, so it is grown with caution in rooms where there are children and pets. Gloves should be worn when pruning or transplanting.

Popular varieties

Of the huge number of varieties of philodendron at home, the following are more common:

Home care

Philodendron is not too picky about lighting, it is easy to grow it at home. Creepers need to provide a strong support, wrapped in moss or coconut fiber. Indoors, creepers bloom more readily than bushy species, but this requires proper care.

Temperature and lighting

Any philodendron is best placed in a place with diffused light without direct sunlight. Variegated varieties need more light. Western and eastern windows are optimally suited. With a lack of lighting, the petioles of the plant are extended, new leaves are smaller in size than the previous ones, and do not have varietal cuts.

Philodendrons climbing, reddening, brilliant are unpretentious. These varieties are suitable for keeping at a temperature of 16-25 degrees in summer and not lower than 12-13 degrees in winter. Separate, warty, golden-black philodendrons are more whimsical. They need to maintain the temperature at 20-25 degrees at any time of the year.

If the conditions are not met, the leaves grow whole and crooked. All philodendrons do not like drafts. For this reason, it is better not to take them out into the open air even in summer.

Philodendron aerial roots.

Humidity and watering

There are varieties that tolerate dry air well, but the philodendron loves high humidity. In nature, the plant grows in tropical forests, so it responds gratefully to daily spraying. You can wipe the leaves with a damp cloth.

Excess watering will be fatal for the philodendron. The leaves will begin to dry out at the tips and then begin to fall off at the bottom of the trunk. However, the drying of the soil also does not need to be allowed. The soil should be constantly slightly moistened. Between waterings, the top layer of soil should dry out by about 1/3 of the pot.

In winter, the philodendron is watered less frequently. Waiting for the soil to dry out on ½ pot. In this mode, care until mid-March. For irrigation use settled or boiled water. In the warm season, philodendrons are given a warm shower once a month - they put the pot in the bath, cover the soil with cellophane and wash off the dust from the leaves.

Soil and transplant

Requires light, porous soil with low acidity. For newly rooted cuttings, ready-made peat soil is mixed with small pieces of coal and pine bark. For young plants, a mixture of humus and peat in a ratio of 2: 1 with the addition of sphagnum, bark, coal is suitable.

Adult philodendrons can be based on orchid soil, which consists not only of bark, but also of sphagnum, charcoal, and peat. Perlite or sand, leaf humus, high-moor peat are added to it, if desired. Plant transplantation is carried out in the spring.

Young philodendrons are transplanted every year, adults - once every 3-4 years. However, adult flowers are also recommended to change the topsoil annually. The pot should be slightly larger than the previous one. The plant is transferred to a new container with an old lump, and the free space is replaced with fresh soil. At first, watering is reduced, because the root system is damaged.

Young philodendrons are transplanted annually, adults - less often.

top dressing

In nature, the plant takes nourishment from organic matter, rainwater, rotted leaves. Philodendron houses are fertilized with mineral complexes for decorative leafy plants. They should have an equal ratio of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. However, the concentration of the solution should be 20% weaker than that recommended by the fertilizer manufacturer.

Despite the weak severity, the dormant period of the plant falls in the winter, therefore, intensive top dressing is applied from mid-March until autumn - once every 2 weeks. In winter, either the flower is not fertilized at all, or a weak concentration is applied once a month. Do not feed a diseased or transplanted plant.

pruning

The aerial roots of the plant cannot be cut off completely, but can be shortened. This is done if they are too long or begin to die off. At any time of the year, dying leaves should be removed.

Pruning philodendron to maintain a certain size is carried out in the spring. A little below the zone of the upper tier of aerial roots, a cut is made so that about 40 cm of the stem remains. If you need to limit the growth of the plant, pinch the growth point above the internode.

flowering period

Some types of philodendrons bloom even at home. The flower is an ear, covered with a white or red veil. Inflorescences are very similar to calla flowers, appear in spring or summer. There is no smell. The flowering period, quite rare at home, does not cause an allergic reaction. But the juice of the plant is poisonous, so gloves should be worn on hands during any procedures.

Flowering philodendron.

Difficulties in growing

Despite the unpretentiousness of the inhabitant of the tropical forests, problems can arise with care errors.

Philodendron diseases

The plant is most often affected by stem rot. It appears due to excessive watering and leads to tissue softness, loss of turgor by the plant. If the philodendron is not severely affected, you can try to save the plant by re-rooting. The trunk is cut off a few centimeters above the place of decay and rooted in soil or water.

Pests

Philodendron is affected by pests with improper care, weakening the plant. Usually it is attacked by spider mites, aphids, thrips, scale insects.

• The spider mite sucks the juice from the plant, which leads to the appearance of yellow spots on the leaves. In places of defeat, if you bring the sheet to the light, puncture points are visible. On the reverse side there is a white dandruff husk - the skins of pests. For prevention, it is necessary to maintain high humidity in the room. And if the tick is already wound up, use acaricidal preparations.
• Aphid colonies on the shoots are visible to the naked eye. First, the top of the plant is deformed, then the leaves curl, sweet dew appears, where the soot fungus later develops. To combat aphids, the plant is washed with soapy water. If the lesion is severe, use chemicals - "Fitoverm", "Intavir" or others.
• Thrips leave noticeable traces on the leaves in the form of silvery strokes and spots. The affected areas are strewn with small black dots - pest excrement.
• When a scutellum is damaged, brown or translucent plaques are visible on both sides of the leaf, representing nothing more than a pest shell.

With thrips and scale insects they fight the same way. First, the affected plants are washed with soapy water, then the soil is shed with a systemic insecticide such as Aktara or Confidor. Re-treatment of the soil is carried out in a week.

reproduction

Philodendron reproduction is possible by seeds, apical shoots, pieces of roots, trunk segments. Growing from seeds is a long process, so real breeders resort to it. For beginners, it is better to use cuttings for propagation.

It will take a long time to grow such a large plant from seeds.

Sowing seeds

Seeds are sown in spring in soil for philodendron to a depth of 5 mm. The soil after sowing is sprayed with a spray bottle. The container is covered with glass or other transparent material, maintaining high humidity.

Philodendron cuttings

Rooting is best done in late spring or early summer. The top or shoot with two pairs of healthy leaves and a growing point should be cut off from the plant. The bottom sheet must be removed, and then deepen the cutting into the soil mixture.

For rooting, wet sand, a peat tablet, or standard philodendron soil will do. The buried cutting should be watered abundantly, then covered with a transparent container or bag, providing increased humidity. The greenhouse needs to be ventilated every two days. When the cutting is rooted, it can be transplanted into a pot with a diameter of 10 cm.

Rooting a philodendron cutting in water.

Fragment Rooting

When propagated by parts of the trunk or root, they are placed in a mixture consisting of peat and sand in equal amounts. Lay with the kidneys up, after which a fragment of the plant is slightly sprinkled with soil. From above organize a greenhouse. It is aired a couple of times a week. After rooting, the seedling is placed in a separate pot.

The flower can be grown from seeds that are sold in flower shops. And you can buy an already grown plant in the same place or in the greenhouse. The cost depends on the age of the flower and its size. So, a plant 35 cm high costs about 2,500 rubles, 80 cm - 4,500 rubles. Philodendrons 150 cm high cost about 40,000 rubles.

Philodendron is not a very difficult plant to grow. However, with errors in care, it is attacked by pests and may lose its decorative effect. Its juice is poisonous, so the philodendron should not be grown in rooms where there are small children. When buying, you should refuse a copy with yellowing leaves.

Philodendrons are very diverse and suitable for growing not only in greenhouses and winter gardens - there are many varieties for breeding at home. And to create optimal conditions for the maintenance and care of the plant is a feasible task even for a beginner in floriculture.

Philodendron: is the plant suitable for the home?

Philodendron is one of the most popular plants in home floriculture, belongs to the Aroid family. It is an evergreen, perennial plant. Since not all species are described, their number ranges from 250 to 900.

The name comes from two Greek words - phileo, which means to love, and dendron, a tree. The name very accurately conveys the main feature of the plant, namely the ability, through the roots, to attach to nearby trees, which become a natural support for the philodendron. In fact, a philodendron is a vine with a semi-herbaceous or woody stem. There are species that have a fairly powerful stable stem, which allows the plant to rise to the desired height without support.

Philodendrons attach themselves to trees with aerial roots.

The leaves, depending on the species, have different lengths - from 11 centimeters to 2 meters and a width of up to 90 centimeters. The location is next. The shape is ovoid, arrow-shaped, heart-shaped, oval and other shapes. Philodendron has an interesting property - the same plant does not have a specific leaf shape. Young leaves look like a heart at first, but change size and shape as they grow. The color is mostly dark green, and the upper side of the leaf plate is colored more intensely than the lower. Less common are species with crimson leaves. Mostly young leaves have a purple color, which, as they grow, lose this color.

Another interesting feature of the plant is the presence of two types of leaves:

1. Scale-like - it protects the vegetative bud. Such leaves are called cataphylls. They are permanent and deciduous.
2. An ordinary leaf, located on a long petiole.

Traces of fallen leaves and cataphylls are visible on the trunk of a philodendron.

There are two types of philodendron roots: aerial and underground. Thanks to the aerial roots of the philodendronattached to a support and receives food and water. Aerial roots have slight differences, it all depends on their purpose. Those that hold the philodendron to the tree are short, numerous, and hairy. Feeding roots are longer and thicker, able to break through under the soil. Very often, these roots replace an underground root system that has been damaged and died.

The inflorescence is a cob wrapped in a veil, painted in shades of pink, purple, pale green and red. Flowers bisexual. In greenhouse conditions, they bloom more readily than when grown at home.

Philodendron inflorescences are diverse in color

Philodendron fruits ripen at different times, depending on the species, and are a berry with small seeds inside.

The sap of the plant is poisonous, so gloves should be worn when handling it.

Philodendron grows in tropical rainforests

Under natural conditions, the length of the philodendron can reach more than 200 meters.

Philodendron has a beneficial effect on the room in which it is located, releasing phytoncides that fight microbes. NASA has listed the philodendron as an air-purifying plant.

Seasonal conditions of detention - table

Season	Humidity	Temperature	Lighting
Spring	Humidify the air around the plant. Spray the support. Put the flower on a pallet with moist expanded clay. Wipe the leaves from dust with a damp cloth (velvet spray leaves only). Bathe in the shower once a week.	Comfortable from 23 to 28 °С. Under conditions of high humidity, it can withstand higher temperatures. It is recommended to grow only in rooms with good ventilation.	Provide bright diffused light. Avoid direct sunlight.
Summer
Autumn	Spray regularly with heaters on. Keep away from batteries. If the air temperature is below comfortable, avoid spraying.	Not lower than 15 °С. Soil temperature should be higher than room temperature. At temperatures below 12 ° C, the plant will die.
Winter

Features of landing and transplantation

plant location

Philodendron is a shade plant. But with insufficient light, the shoots will stretch, the leaves will become smaller, and varieties with variegated leaves will lose their color. Direct sunlight won't help either. The best option is to put a plant near the east window. If the windows face south, then it is better to hide the philodendron in the middle of the room.

Protect the philodendron from drafts!

The best place for the plant will be the east window

Landing Rules

The new planting pot should be high enough and with a wide top, given the fact that the aerial roots of the philodendron can take root, and 5–7 cm higher than the previous one. Too large a pot can cause waterlogging of the soil, which is undesirable. Be sure to have drainage holes.

A tall pot is suitable for a philodendron

In nature, philodendrons grow on soils that include fallen leaves and rotted wood. When buying an earthen mixture in a store, you should opt for light earth for Saintpaulia. The main requirement for the soil is good water and air permeability. If you decide to prepare the mixture yourself, then you will need:

• 3 parts of garden soil;
• 2 parts of peat;
• 4 pieces of bark for orchids;
• 1 part perlite.

There is another option which includes:

• 1 part of sod land;
• 3 parts sheet;
• 1 part sand.

Horn shavings or bone meal can be added to the earth mixture, which will make the soil more nutritious.

The finished mixture should be light and loose, easily permeable to water, with a neutral or slightly acid pH of 5.5–7.

Don't forget to prepare a base. It can be purchased at the store, or you can make it yourself. For small plants, it is better to make a hard wire frame or put a grate. For more impressive specimens, take a wooden stick, a branch or a piece of plastic pipe and wrap it with fibrous material or sphagnum moss. A philodendron winding along a support will take up little space in the apartment.

The support must be kept wet. During the period of active growth, it is sprayed with highly diluted fertilizers.

Transplant Features

Adult plants are transplanted every 2–3 years, and young plants annually. For too large specimens, you can update the topsoil without resorting to transplanting. To do this, remove 5 cm of the old soil and replace it with a new one.

For large specimens, it is enough to annually change the top layer of the earth to a new one.

The best time to transplant a philodendron is spring.

A transplant is performed in the following cases:

• The soil is compacted or covered with moss.
• Roots grow through drainage holes or leaves become smaller, indicating a cramped pot.
• Mineral substances accumulate excessively, appearing as white stains on the soil.
• The presence of pests or signs of philodendron disease in the soil is observed. In this case, it is necessary to remove the old soil and cut off the diseased roots.

When transplanting, do not forget to disinfect the soil by dousing it with boiling water or roasting it in the oven.

The plant should be transplanted immediately after purchase.

Step by step transfer process:

1. Put a layer of drainage into the prepared pot.
2. Top with a layer of soil.
3. Gently remove the philodendron from the old pot, being careful not to disturb the roots.
4. Place the plant in the center of the new pot, complete with support. If you stick it after planting, you can damage the roots.
5. Top up the soil on all sides, then spill it with water. The soil will settle and fill all the voids. Add the remaining soil and water again.
6. When planting, do not deepen the root neck.

If you bought a philodendron from a store, when you get home, carefully remove the plant from the pot and inspect the root system. If the roots are completely covered with an earthen ball, then a transplant is necessary.

Philodendron transplantation by transshipment - video

plant care

Watering

Inhabitants of the rainforest, philodendrons, are very fond of moisture. In spring and summer, regular and plentiful watering should be carried out, allowing the top layer of the earth to dry slightly. It should be watered with soft water at room temperature, which has been settled for at least 6 hours. Tap water will lead to salinization or alkalization of the soil, which can cause the death of the plant. The best option would be rain or melt water.

In autumn, watering is gradually reduced. By winter, they are reduced to a minimum, but they do not allow the earthen clod to dry out.

The water from the pan should be drained after each watering.

Philodendrons love moisture.

top dressing

For normal development, philodendrons need top dressing. Young plants especially depend on them during active growth, but do not overfeed them, as excess fertilizer will cause poor formation of young foliage.

From March to September, adult plants are fed every week with complex mineral fertilizers diluted 2–3 times or once every 2 weeks with the same fertilizers, but in the prescribed concentration. The composition of dressings should include nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in equal proportions. Make sure that fertilizers do not contain calcium salts.

Organic fertilizers will bring many benefits to the philodendron. Manure, diluted in water to a light straw color, will be an ideal top dressing. It should be applied after watering.

Organic fertilizers should be alternated with mineral fertilizers.

In winter, plant feeding is not stopped, but only reduced to 1 time per month. But if the philodendron is kept at low temperatures, then top dressing should be stopped.

The transplanted plant is not fertilized for six months.

Large tree-like philodendrons are added to the top layer of soil with well-rotted compost every summer.

Flowering at home

Philodendrons usually bloom in greenhouses or conservatories. At home, to achieve this phenomenon is almost impossible. However, there are species that at home can please flowering. These include: Xanadu, Blushing, Scaly, Warty, Double Pinnate, Silver Queen. In order for the plant to bloom, you need to create an environment that is close to the natural conditions of the habitat: taking into account humidity, temperature, soil composition, properly selected fertilizers, lighting.

The philodendron flower pleases with its beauty for a very short time - just a day.

At home, the philodendron practically does not bloom

rest period

In philodendrons, the dormant period is weakly expressed. It starts in the second half of December and lasts until the beginning of March. At this time, watering and fertilizing the plants are reduced, but do not stop. The temperature is maintained within 20 ° C, the flower is kept in a bright place.

Errors in care and their elimination - table

Mistake	Cause	elimination
The leaves begin to dry from the tips, they feel like paper to the touch.	Too dry indoor air.	Put the pot with the plant on a pallet with wet claydite. Spray the leaves more often. In winter, put away from the batteries.
Dry light spots on the leaves.	Sunburn.	Protect the plant from direct sunlight.
Elongated shoots, small leaves, faded color.	Lack of light.	Move the plant to a brighter location.
Rotting of stems and shoots at the roots.	The combination of low temperature with high humidity, heavy soil.	Increase the temperature in the room or move the plant to a warmer one. Reduce the frequency of watering. Change the soil to a lighter one.
Leaves curl.	Excess fertilizer in the soil.	Place the plant pot in a large container of water. Let the philodendron be well saturated with moisture. Then take it out and let the water drain. Repeat the process 2 times. Or put the plant under running water for 15 minutes. It is important that the water is at room temperature and that the pot has drainage holes. Maintain the correct concentration of fertilizers and the frequency of top dressing.
Upper leaves are small and yellow.	Nutrient deficiencies.	Increase plant nutrition.
The lower leaves turn yellow and die.	If this process is accompanied by the growth of young and healthy foliage, everything is in order.	The natural process of dying old leaves.
The leaves turn black.	The action of cold air.	Get the philodendron out of the draft and find a warmer spot for it.
Leaves turn yellow and rust.	Massive yellowing of the leaves indicates excessive watering and low temperatures.	Adjust watering to normal. Raise the room temperature.

An interesting feature of the philodendron is the formation of droplets of liquid at the tips of the leaves. They appear at high humidity, for example, before rain. This phenomenon is called guttation. It may also indicate an excess of moisture.

Diseases and pests

Philodendron, like all aroids, rarely gets sick. But on a plant that is not properly cared for, pests can settle, weakening the plant and leading to its death.

Philodendron pests and their control - table

Pests	Signs of defeat	Treatment	Prevention measures
	On the stems, in the axils of the leaves and on the leaves, small tubercles of a light brown color are visible. Young larvae quickly spread throughout the plant.	Insecticides - Aktara or Aktellik, strictly according to the instructions. It is best to handle outdoors, using protection in the form of gloves and a gauze bandage. If the funds are used indoors, be sure to open the window. After processing, ventilate the room.	Mechanical removal with a cloth soaked in soapy water. Repeat the procedure after a few days until the pest disappears completely.
	On the underside of the leaf and on the apical shoots, clusters of gray, black or green insects are noticeable. They feed on plant sap. If you do not take action, the philodendron may die.		In case of minor damage, aphids can be removed with a sponge and soapy water.
	The affected plant is braided with a light cobweb, on which a whole colony of ticks is located. The color of insects is brown, green, red. They suck the juice from the plant, the leaves are covered with small white dots.		Wash off the pest with a good warm shower (as far as the hand can endure). Increase the humidity around the plant to at least 40%.
	Small winged insects up to 1.5 mm in size. On the affected leaves, a gray-brown plaque forms.		Wash off insects with soapy water. Remove the top 10 cm of soil, replacing it with a new one, or transplant the plant.
	Young shoots and leaves are affected. They are covered with cotton-like lumps. Affected parts turn yellow and fall off.		Treat the plant with a sponge dipped in alcohol. Rinse the philodendron under the shower after 20 minutes.

Harmful insects in the photo

A plant affected by a mealybug appears to be covered with small balls of cotton wool. Adult thrips and their larvae Plant affected by spider mites Aphids reproduce very quickly and can kill the plant Stem damaged by scab

Reproduction methods

Philodendron is very easy to propagate by apical or stem shoots, cuttings, air layering. Using a patch with aerial roots is the easiest way to root a plant. You can try to propagate by seeds, but this method is more suitable for greenhouse farming.

The best time for philodendron breeding is spring.

Propagation by cuttings and leaves

1. Carefully cut off the selected apical or stem shoot with two or more leaves with a sharp knife.
2. Sprinkle slices with crushed activated charcoal and leave to dry for several hours.
3. Fill small pots with a mixture of peat and sand (perlite can be used instead of sand) in equal proportions or sphagnum moss and moisten well.
4. Press the dried cuttings into the mixture by 3 cm or spread on top so that the growth point is on top.
5. Make a greenhouse out of a plastic bag or glass jar and put it in a bright place. Temperature from 25 °С to 30 °С.
6. Every 2-3 days, briefly ventilate the greenhouse and moisten the soil.
7. After a month, you can remove the shelter.
8. When the cuttings have roots and 2 young leaves grow, they are transplanted into slightly larger pots and cared for like an adult plant.

Using the same method, you can root a leaf with aerial roots or a piece of heel. If you cut just a leaf, then it will not be able to root.

Rooted philodendron cuttings

The philodendron, from which the cuttings were cut, rejuvenates and gives many new shoots.

Rooting air layering

It is very easy to propagate the philodendron by air layering. For this climbing philodendron, you need to choose a shoot and lay it on a moistened peat substrate or sphagnum moss in a small pot. You can fix the shoot with a piece of bent wire, or slightly buried in the ground. After a month, the cuttings will take root and can be cut off from the mother plant.

You just need to put the shoot on moist soil and fix

Planting a woody stem

A large plant with a lignified trunk is propagated as follows:

1. Make small cuts on the stem and sprinkle them with Kornevin.
2. Moisten the moss and attach to the cuts, wrap with cellophane on top and tie.
3. Moss must be hermetically sealed on all sides. If this was not achieved, it is sometimes necessary to add water to it in order to keep it moist.
4. When the roots appear (they will be clearly visible through the cellophane), the top is cut off and planted in a pot, after removing the bag of peat.
5. New shoots will soon appear on the remaining stem.

Rooting a lignified stem - a method suitable for adult philodendrons

Growing from seeds

Tree-like forms reproduce with the help of seeds. Use only fresh seeds - it is best to purchase them in specialized stores, checking the expiration date.

1. Seeds are soaked overnight in distilled water, then planted in a prepared mixture of peat and sand. Seeds cannot be covered with soil, they must be on the surface!
2. The container with seeds is covered with a bag and placed in a bright place, avoiding direct sunlight. The ideal temperature is not lower than 28 °C.
3. The container is opened when 2-3 leaves appear on the seedlings - after about 7 weeks.
4. When the seedlings are 10 weeks old, they can be transplanted into separate pots.

Philodendron grown from seed - a rarity for home breeding

Almost all types of philodendron root easily in water. But this method is not entirely suitable for the plant, since its root system must adapt to new conditions - the soil substrate.

Philodendron in indoor floriculture - video

The vegetative method is most often used to propagate Philodendron. It allows you to quickly and without much hassle not only get a new plant, but also put the old bush in order. However, it is not always possible to get a cutting. In addition, there are varieties of philodendron that practically do not have a stem, so they propagate by seeds, for example, the Sello philodendron. You can get seeds at any flower shop, but now we’ll talk about how to properly grow a philodendron from seeds.

Do seeds need to be prepared?

Although philodendron seeds have good germination, it is not 100%, and flower growers often complain that only one seed has sprouted from a whole bag, or even nothing has sprouted.

So that the purchased seeds do not disappoint, they simply need to be pre-prepared by subjecting them to two important and necessary procedures:

firstly, soak for a day in a growth stimulator;

secondly, to scratch each seed, damaging its shell.

What kind of soil to sow?

At the stage of seed germination, light loose soil will be required, since the seeds of the philodendron are small. In dense, heavy soil, it will be difficult for tender sprouts to break through to the top.

For sowing, you can use the usual universal substrate, adding a little coconut fiber to it. At the bottom of the container, before filling it with soil, drainage should be laid, which will protect the seedlings from rotting.

Spread the seeds on the surface of the soil, lightly sprinkle with earth and spray well with a spray bottle. Now it remains to organize greenhouse conditions for them: cover the container with a bag or a piece of glass.

Put the greenhouse on a warm windowsill with good lighting. In order for the seeds to germinate, they will need high humidity, in addition, the air temperature in the greenhouse under the film must be at least 25 degrees Celsius.

How to care for seedlings?

Further care for seedlings is the same as when growing seedlings of other indoor plants. The greenhouse should be ventilated daily, opening the cap for a few minutes, and periodically spraying the soil, preventing it from drying out.

It is worth noting that it will take quite a long time to wait for the first shoots of philodendron - the sprouts will appear no earlier than in 1.5 months.

When the seeds germinate, remove the cap and continue to care for the seedlings. It will be possible to dive them into a separate bowl when two true leaves are formed on the bushes. The next transplant is done a year later in the spring, changing the pot to a more spacious one.

Growing Philodendron - video

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Begonia tuberous: growing from seeds

Growing begonias with seeds is a rather troublesome business, requiring constant, vigilant strict control, but subject to all the basic nuances of agricultural technology, the results will surely please you.

Most often, ever-flowering and decorative-deciduous types of begonias are grown from seeds, but tuberous begonias can also be obtained from seeds, although it is worth noting that this process is not fast, so you need to be patient.

Terms of sowing tuberous begonia from seeds

Tuberous begonia seeds are usually sown in December - February. This difference affects the development of plants, decorative qualities and seed productivity. To establish the optimal sowing dates, the seeds of various varieties of begonias were sown at four times: in December, January, February and March (the 15th day of each month). Plants were planted in the open ground and in the greenhouse as they were ready: the first and second dates - June 5, the third - July 5, the fourth - July 15-20 after early flowering (tulips and hyacinths).

At the first, December, sowing date, the flowering of tuberous begonias is in 150-155 days, that is, after 3.5-5 months. At the second and third sowing dates (January, February), tuberous begonia blooms 10-15 days earlier. At the latest sowing date, flowering occurs, respectively, after 175 days. The duration of the flowering period also turned out to be different. At the first and second terms of sowing, tuberous begonia bloomed for 98-112 days. With the fourth term, respectively, 83 and 67 days.

The timing of sowing has a great influence on the formation of tubers. The most complete tubers, 2-2.5 cm in diameter, are formed during the December and January sowing dates. They keep well in winter. The tubers of February sowing are much smaller. Their diameter reaches only 0.5 cm. During storage, they fall out by 30-35%. At the March sowing date, if the plants are grown in a greenhouse, the tubers are formed in pots and reach 1-1.5 cm in diameter by the end of the growing season.

Articles about growing seedlings

Necessary equipment for sowing tuberous begonia from seeds

Begonia from seeds during cultivation retains all maternal characteristics, if pollination by other species has not previously occurred. If the plant from which the seeds were collected stood next to the same, but of a different color, then a surprise may await you as a result. But this makes the process even more interesting, as you can become the owner of a completely new variety. However, if you want to keep your favorite plant, keep it away from a similar pollinator during flowering. For sowing, it will be necessary to stock up on shallow containers and soil for sowing. The soil does not have to be fertile, since at the beginning of its development, the seed has enough of its nutrients that are stored in it with a margin. Tanks for sowing also should not be voluminous, since the seedlings will be in them for a short time before transplanting, the so-called dive.

When the seedlings grow up, they will need to be transplanted into separate pots and special soil purchased in specialized stores. Begonia is a capricious plant, so it’s better not to save money and splurge on ready-made soil mixtures for begonias.

The process of growing tuberous begonia from seeds

One bag weighing 2/10 grams can contain up to a thousand pieces of tuberous begonia seeds. To increase their size, manufacturers use drageeing (granulation) technology. As a result, the seeds are coated with a water-soluble composition. If you wondered how to grow begonia from seeds, if it belongs to the tuberous species, then the answer to this question is very short.

Agrotechnics for growing tuberous begonias with seeds has a number of nuances:

The temperature of the content of crops should be 22 - 27 ° C;

After germination, the temperature is gradually reduced to 19°C;

After the formation of the third leaf, the seedlings dive;

The second pick is carried out 4 to 5 weeks after the first.

Gently mix the seeds that are not covered with granules with sand in order to then distribute them as evenly as possible over the soil surface. Planting of granulated seeds is easy to control due to their bright color.

How to grow a cactus from seeds at home

Growing rare plants from seeds is a real pleasure for the grower. And to grow such exotic things as cacti from seeds is something incredible at all. And yet, growing them is not difficult, subject to certain conditions. And a lot of positive emotions from this process will be provided to you!

Experienced cactus growers have special greenhouses with lamps and reflectors designed for this sacrament. But for the successful cultivation of their own cacti, all these attributes are not necessary, although they are desirable. It is quite possible to grow cacti from seeds without these "bells and whistles", there would be a desire.

Preparation of sowing equipment for growing cactus

It is better to sow each species separately, or two species together in small boxes (for example, children's cubes), which are then conveniently put into one common bowl.

You can also sow in one plastic or ceramic bowl with a depth of at least 3 cm, which is divided into cells using vertical partitions. The sowing place of each species is marked with a number or name. Before pouring, the dishes should be thoroughly washed and disinfected with a strong solution of potassium permanganate, bleach or formalin. It is advisable to boil ceramic dishes. All preparation is carried out on the eve of sowing.

Preparation of the seed substrate for growing cactus

The substrate for sowing should be well air and water permeable, poor in nutrients, able to retain moisture, have a slightly acidic reaction (pH-6) and be sterile. These requirements are met by a mixture of equal parts of sifted leafy soil and coarse washed sand that does not contain lime, with a small addition of sifted peat and charcoal powder. More complex compositions have no noticeable advantages.

For sterilization, the finished mixture is poured into a saucepan, well moistened, tightly closed with a lid and placed in an oven, where the temperature is maintained at 200 - 250 ° C. Three liters of the mixture are sterilized for 1-1.5 hours. For a smaller amount of the mixture, the sterilization time is reduced.

Sterilization is also conveniently carried out over steam in a pressure cooker. After sterilization, the substrate must remain moist. Sterilization is performed on the eve of sowing. For drainage use small pebbles, well washed and boiled.

Preparing cactus seeds at home

The process of preparing cactus seeds for planting is similar to many vegetable plants. Soaking them in a potassium permanganate solution will help speed up germination, and the rotting process will be minimized.

It is important to remember that the seeds can be planted a day after soaking. Longer exposure to water will result in long sprouts, which, unfortunately, break off easily.

Planting cactus seeds at home

In any planting bowl, three layers should be obtained: the first is drainage, then a layer of prepared soil, which should be compacted to remove the voids formed, the top layer is looser and finer, for this the soil must be sifted through a strainer.

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Level the surface, plant seeds using a needle or a small brush, moisten additionally. From above, you need to create a shelter made of transparent plastic or glass, put the containers in a warm, bright place. To moisten, use a pipette or a spray bottle, do not allow overdrying. Monitor the temperature, which should be within +25°C.

After 2-3 months, it is already possible to pick seedlings, which contributes to better growth of thorny plants and a decrease in diseases.

A few words about picking cacti

Grown cacti, on which the first thorns and delicate hairs have already begun to break through, must be transplanted, and together with a lump of earth around the root. A thick drainage layer is arranged in a separate pot, and then the container is filled with a substrate for cacti. The surface of the earth is very carefully leveled, a small depression is made in it and a young plant is placed there. The roots are sprinkled with a thin layer of fertile soil. A small sprout is placed in a warm, bright room, protected from direct sunlight, and moderately watered (as the soil dries up).

Conditions for growing cactus

If there are no signs of growth, you need to remember the rule: in doubtful cases, do not water! Too much water is always more dangerous than too little. This is especially important for winter, when most cacti are kept completely dry, of course, when kept cold. Low temperatures are essential for many cacti to flower in the next growing season.

This cold but light content is sometimes the greatest difficulty in indoor cactus culture. A cold but dark room is not good here. Many cacti, especially those that bloom in spring, require maximum light during rest. Despite the cold wintering, sometimes it is not possible to achieve flowering of cacti. The reason is that in these species we are dealing with young plants that have not yet matured to the flowering stage. Certain cacti, such as melocactus, cephalocereus, espostoa, form flowers only in a certain flowering zone, this is called cephalium. This zone is covered with dense, mostly yellow or brown hairs or bristles, which sit like a cap on the top or sometimes on the side of columnar cacti (the so-called lateral cephalus).

How to water a cactus at home

Watering during growth and flowering is plentiful, but the water should not stagnate in a pot. Watered with warm settled water, but in no case on flowers. It is good if you spray with water every day.
During the period of flowering and budding, top dressing (root and foliar) is carried out for two weeks. These are ready-made mixtures for forest cacti rich in potassium and moderate nitrogen content, which is harmful to the roots in large quantities.

What should be the lighting

Lighting. Cacti need light already at the very early stage of life - during germination. Of course, like many home crops, direct sunlight will be harmful to them. Therefore, it is advisable to put the tray on a sunny window, but be sure to shade it.

Philodendron at home

Plant philodendron (lat. Philodendron) belongs to the genus of evergreen flowering perennials of the Aroid family, numbering, according to the experts of the Missouri Botanical Garden, about 900 species. The genus is the second largest in the number of plants in the family, so not all of its representatives have been described and studied yet. In the wild, philodendrons are found from Mexico to the tropical zone of America in swamps, river banks and in moist, warm forests, as well as in Australia and the Pacific islands, where, obviously, they were brought by sailors.

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Philodendron flower - description

Philodendrons have an amazing variety of life forms: among them there are semi-epiphytes, epiphytes and even hemiepiphytes, but philodendrons are predominantly climbing plants, epiphytes, using aerial roots to fix on a support. No wonder because in the translation "philodendron" means "I love a tree." If a philodendron seed sprouted from the soil and there was no tree nearby to climb up, the plant will crawl along the ground in a long whip, guided by the shadow cast by a nearby tree, fence, or something else that the philodendron can use as a support. The roots of the philodendron are underground and aerial. Air plants are divided into numerous short and hairy ones, which serve to fix the plant on a support, and into thicker and longer ones, used to extract nutrients and moisture.

The stems of the philodendron are fleshy, woody at the base, the leaves are alternate, petiolate, large - in nature, sometimes up to two meters long. The leaf plate can be oval, pinnately dissected, arrow-shaped, etc., depending on the type and variety. On the same plant, young and old leaves may differ not only in size, but also in shape. The color of the leaves is also varied, but the color of the upper side of the leaf is always darker than the bottom. The inflorescence of a philodendron is an ear with a waxy two-color veil, similar to a hood, the fruit is a berry.

Some philodendrons grow to large sizes and need a lot of living space, so they are grown in greenhouses to decorate lobbies, large halls and conservatories. But we are interested in an indoor philodendron, which will not take up much space and time from you, but at the same time will refresh and decorate an ordinary city apartment.

Philodendron - home care

How to care for a philodendron?

It is best to place a home philodendron in light partial shade, where direct sunlight does not fall, and do not forget that variegated forms of the plant need more light than monochrome ones. Make sure the philodendron is protected from drafts. The temperature in the summer should be no higher than 25? C, on hot, stuffy days, spray the plant or wash its leaves with settled water to prevent them from overheating. In winter, the air temperature should not fall below 15? C.

Air humidity should be, if not like in a tropical forest, then still very high, the lack of humidity will immediately affect the appearance of the leaves: they will become smaller and simpler in shape. Therefore, get ready for frequent spraying - this is what makes caring for a philodendron different. Watering a Philodendron should be organized in such a way that the substrate does not remain dry for a long time, otherwise drought will immediately affect the decorative qualities of the plant - first the tips will dry out at the leaves, then the whole leaves in the lower part of the plant will dry out and fall off. Too much moisture leads to philodendron leaves turning yellow. The philodendron turns yellow, however, in some other cases, for example, when overfeeding with fertilizers. Water for irrigation should be used either boiled or settled.

Philodendron fertilizer.

In tropical forests, philodendrons feed on animal excrement, rotted tree leaves, insect waste products, rainwater and dust dissolved in it. Indoor types of philodendrons respond well to fertilizers with an equal percentage of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, but the concentration of the solution should be 20% weaker than indicated by the manufacturers, and the more often you feed, the weaker the concentration should be. The dormant period of the philodendron is weakly expressed, but it falls on winter time, therefore, after the new year, top dressing is temporarily stopped and watering is reduced - until mid-March.

Transplanting a homemade philodendron.

The philodendron is transplanted in the spring, as needed: young plants - annually, adults - once every 3-4 years. A need can be considered too tight a pot or updating the old soil. substrate for this tropical plant, it must be slightly acidic, light, porous, breathable and at the same time nutritious. The basis for it can serve as soil for orchids, consisting of charcoal, sphagnum moss, peat and bark. Perlite or sand, high-moor peat and leaf (herbal) humus must be added to this mixture. Such a composition will provide air access to the roots and, having quickly passed water through itself, will remain wet for a long time. You won't need any special instructions on how to transplant a philodendron: it's best to use the transshipment method, and then supplement the new flowerpot with fresh substrate.

Reproduction of philodendron

The philodendron propagates vegetatively, by apical or stem cuttings, as well as by a leaf with a heel. The cut should be sprinkled with sulfur or coal to avoid rotting in a humid environment. Propagation should be done in spring or summer, and areas of the plant on which aerial roots have already formed are best suited for jigging. For rooting, a mixture of garden soil with vermiculite and sand is used. It is advisable to place the rooted part of the plant under a plastic bag to create greenhouse conditions, from time to time the polyethylene will need to be removed to ventilate the plant and eliminate condensation. Then, when the cutting or leaf takes root, it is transplanted into more nutritious soil.

Home philodendron - types

Since there are too many philodendrons in nature and culture, we will try to introduce you to the most famous and popular types and forms. So.

Philodendron golden-black Andre (Philodendron melanochrysum andreanum)

- a highly decorative appearance due to its heterophylly (diversity): young leaves are small (5-7 cm long) - heart-shaped, copper-red, and adults reach 40 to 80 cm in length (in nature, of course), in shape - more oblong, color - bronze-green with whitish veins and a narrow light border around the edge. At home, demanding in terms of humidity.

Philodendron brilliant (Philodendron micans)

- a small and compact liana. The stems are thin, the leaves are up to 10 cm long and up to 5 cm wide, velvety, young ones are reddish in color, adults are brown-green. Unpretentious.

Philodendron warty (Philodendron verrucosum)

very popular with flower growers, because it is incredibly beautiful: heart-shaped velvet leaves 15-20 cm long and 10 cm wide grow on petioles densely dotted with warty bristles. The problem with the species is that it does not tolerate dry air.

Guitar Philodendron (Philodendron bippenifolium)

also in demand in culture. Its leaves, shaped like a famous musical instrument, reach 40-50 cm in length. The plant is not capricious and has already served as the basis for breeding several hybrids of high decorativeness.

Philodendron bipinnate (Philodendron bipinnatifidum)

And Philodendron Sello (Philodendron selloum) . Despite the external similarity, which misleads many, these are two different species. They are large vines with a lignified powerful trunk. The bipinnate philodendron is a rarity, and the Sello philodendron is widely distributed in culture.

Reddening Philodendron (Philodendron erubescens)

- the most famous species among flower growers, which served as the basis for breeders who successfully bred many varieties with his participation. The trunk of the creeper is red-green in color, with age, when it becomes woody, it turns into gray-golden. The petioles of the leaves at the base are dark red, the leaves are 25-30 cm long, 15-20 cm wide. The spathe covering the fragrant ear of white is 15 cm long, dark purple. The plant is completely unpretentious, tolerates rare watering, poor lighting, and insufficient air humidity.

In addition to the above, such types of philodendrons as arrow-leaved philodendron, scaly-bearing philodendron, drop-bearing philodendron, graceful philodendron, ivy-shaped philodendron, lobed philodendron and many others are grown in culture.

How to grow a philodendron at home

Philodendrons often decorate apartments. They are hardy and grow quickly with minimal care. The leaves look very original. The variety of varieties suitable for home conditions allows you to create a whole island of greenery, ideal for relaxing after a hard day's work.

plant description

Philodendron (Philodendron) is a genus of perennial evergreen plants from the aroid family. About 900 species found in nature are described, not counting hybrids bred by selection. The homeland of the philodendron is the tropical rainforests of South and Central America, islands in the Caribbean. There are especially many of them in Mexico. From these territories, seafarers brought them to Australia, Oceania and Southeast Asia, where new species arose.

Monstera is a close relative of the philodendron.

There are two groups of philodendrons: vines and non-vines, which are called tree forms.. Most of the plants of the second group are large, and all of them have notched leaves. Therefore, it is difficult to grow them in a room; they are more suitable for the halls of public buildings or for a greenhouse.

In their natural environment, philodendron vines grow up to 200 meters or more in length.

Literally translated from Greek, "philodendron" means "loving a tree." This is a completely fair characterization. Most of them are climbing epiphytic plants, using tree trunks as support. The "owner" does not suffer in any way.

In nature, philodendrons are much larger than "in captivity"

In order to cling to the trunks, philodendrons release short thin aerial roots covered with small hairs. Other aerial roots, longer and thicker, the plant uses to absorb nutrition and moisture.

If there is no tree near where the seed spawned, the philodendron will curl on the ground. But not in any randomly chosen direction, but focusing on the nearest shadow. This is how the plant "knows" the location of something that can be used as a support. Until the philodendron has reached its goal, its internodes are long. Then they contract sharply and get fatter.

Philodendron without support is a solid carpet of foliage

Tree-like philodendrons are easy to distinguish from other aroids. Leaves of two types are arranged in strict order on plants. The first is similar to a scale, covers the second, located on the petiole. As the plant matures, the leaves gradually fall off, leaving a bare stem.

In adult plants, on lignified stems, traces of fallen leaves are clearly visible.

The shape of the leaves is the most diverse - ovoid, pinnate, heart-shaped, oval, arrow-shaped, fan-shaped. To the touch they are dense, leathery, located on long petioles. Under natural conditions, the leaves can be more than 2 m in length. Moreover, young and old leaves on the same plant can be completely different from each other. This has led to the fact that it is still not possible to determine the exact number of philodendron species.

The color of the leaf plate also varies significantly. But below it is always lighter than above. Philodendron inflorescence - an ear up to 20 cm long, wrapped in a continuous petal-veil. The coloration is varied, but invariably two-tone. White, yellowish, scarlet are repeated. After flowering, berries ripen.

At home, making a philodendron bloom is almost impossible.

Certain areas of the inflorescence can heat up to a temperature of 10-12? C higher than the ambient temperature. The mechanism of this phenomenon is still unclear to botanists.

On the inflorescence of a philodendron, the flowers are arranged in a strict order.

Philodendron has a beneficial effect on the atmosphere in the room in which it is located. The plant emits volatile substances, phytoncides, which purify the air from many pathogenic microbes and bacteria. These same substances have a positive effect on the health of those living in the apartment, especially in the presence of cardiovascular diseases and problems with blood pressure.

Any work with the philodendron should be carried out only with gloves. Like all aroids, the leaves, stems and shoots of the plant contain a thick, caustic white juice. If it comes into contact with skin or mucous membranes, this substance can cause severe burns. For the same reason, keep philodendron pots out of the reach of children and pets..

What species can be kept at home

Philodendron is ideal for home gardening. But this does not apply to all types, but only to those that have suitable sizes. Some plants simply do not fit into the apartment. But they look great in greenhouses and lobbies of large buildings.

Table: spear-shaped philodendron, climbing, Xanadu and other popular varieties

Photo gallery: types of philodendron with different leaf shapes

How to create the right microclimate for a flower at home - table

Landing and transplant

An adult plant does not need frequent transplantation. Carry out the procedure every 3-4 years, when the pot is already small. Young philodendrons (up to 5 years old) should be transplanted every year. Transplanting large philodendrons is fraught with significant difficulties, and sometimes not feasible at all, so you can limit yourself to the annual replacement of the topsoil.

The possibility of transplanting a philodendron directly depends on the size of the plant.

The only suitable time for transplanting is spring. Finding out whether to carry out the procedure this year is simple. Notice the leaves. If they gradually become smaller, then the plant is cramped in a pot. The shape of the new philodendron pot should be high and 5–8 cm larger than the old one in diameter.. A drainage layer with a thickness of at least 3-5 cm must be placed on the bottom.

You should not take a pot "for growth", hoping that this way you will have to replant the plant less often. In this case, it is very easy not to calculate with watering.

The main requirement for the soil is lightness and breathability. At the same time, the soil must be nutritious. The best option is a slightly acidic or neutral soil. It is best to prepare the substrate yourself, taking as a basis specially designed for orchids. To it, add a glass of coarse river sand, dry peat and humus per liter.

Philodendrons grow well in hydroponics.

Other soil options:

Soddy soil mixed in equal proportions, universal soil for indoor plants, humus, dry peat and river sand. For every 2 liters of soil, a glass of charcoal crushed into crumbs is added.

Sod land, leaf humus, dry peat and sand in a ratio of 3:2:1:0.5.

Think in advance which design option to choose. The interior will be wonderfully decorated with a composition that reproduces the natural habitat of these plants: philodendrons on a support grow especially luxuriantly and densely. Supports can be bought or made independently from a wooden handle, wrapping it with a suitable natural material - strips of moss, coconut fiber (sometimes referred to as a washcloth). The most advantageous alternative is a hollow plastic tube of medium diameter with drilled holes or a plastic mesh rolled into a tube filled with soil or sphagnum moss. On such a support, the shoots of the philodendron will not only be fixed, but also take root.

Creepers look no less impressive in hanging pots. In order for the leaves to form a continuous lush bush, periodically pinch the tops of the shoots.

The transfer process looks like this:

1. Remove the philodendron from the pot. Do not shake off the earth from the roots. They are very easy to damage, then the plant will die.
2. Pour a layer of soil about 5 cm thick into a pot with drainage.
3. Place an earthen ball removed from an old pot on the ground, and securely fasten the support next to it.
4. Top up the soil. It should not reach the top edge of the pot by 1-2 cm. Make sure that the support does not warp.
5. Water the plant generously.

Video: philodendron transplant

Essential care at home

Philodendron is relatively unpretentious. There is no pronounced dormant period. Pay the most attention to watering and fertilizing.

Philodendron is very moisture-loving. From early spring to mid-autumn, the plant needs abundant watering. In winter, it is reduced. Use water only at room temperature and previously settled for at least 6-8 hours. The ideal option is rain or melt water. Water as the soil surface dries out. In the heat, the plant is additionally sprayed 1-2 times a day. In winter, keep the soil slightly moist. Do not let her move away from the edges of the pot.

In the phase of intensive growth (spring and summer), once every 15–20 days, fertilize with a solution of universal liquid fertilizers for indoor ornamental foliage plants. For very large specimens, double the number of feedings. In winter, on the contrary, once a month is enough. The content of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in fertilizers should be approximately equal. Suitable Kemira-Lux, Agricola, Master, Bona-Forte, Floris, Orton Flower, Ideal. If, in your opinion, the plant is overgrown, choose fertilizers with a minimum of nitrogen.

Strictly follow the dosage recommended by the manufacturer. Overfed philodendron turns yellow, wilts, leaves fall off. You can get rid of excess minerals by immersing the pot in a container of water. When the soil is well saturated, let the liquid drain. Repeat 2-3 more times.

Do not feed a newly transplanted plant for six months.

For philodendrons grown in greenhouses or greenhouses, add humus to the soil in the middle of summer at the rate of 1 liter for every 15 liters of soil in a pot.

For greater decorativeness and “bushiness”, pinch off about a quarter of the tips of the shoots that have reached a length of about 50 cm. Then the plant will begin to branch more intensively. "Pruning" use as cuttings. It is strictly forbidden to cut aerial roots. Better direct them towards the pot. Over time, they will reach the ground.

Problems and solutions

Flower growers, especially beginners, are often faced with the fact that the philodendron loses its decorative effect. The reason is individual errors in care.

Philodendron: features of growing a tropical beauty

Philodendron is a popular plant that looks beautiful both in a city apartment and in an office. This tropical inhabitant does not require careful care, it will not take a lot of time from busy people. The variety of philodendron species is great, while both natural and hybrid plant varieties are used at home.

Philodendron: general description

Philodendron is an evergreen perennial plant of the Aroid family. In its natural environment, the philodendron grows in Mexico and the tropics of South America, as well as in Australia and on some Pacific islands, where it was brought by travelers.

For the most part, philodendrons are vines that are fixed on a support with the help of aerial roots. If the plant has grown away from a tree that it could catch on, its lashes simply crawl along the ground in the direction of the nearest trees.

The stems of the philodendron are thick, fleshy, and woody at the base. The leaves are large, sometimes can grow up to 2 m in length. The leaf plate can have an oval, heart-shaped, arrow-shaped or dissected shape, depending on the type of philodendron. Leaves of different ages on the same plant vary in shape and size. The color of the leaves is varied - from shades of green to red. Philodendron blooms with cobs with a two-color veil, and the fruit of the plant is a berry.

Some types of philodendron are not suitable for city apartments, there is too little space for them there. But there are also indoor philodendrons, they are quite compact.

Plant video

Types and varieties common in indoor floriculture - table

Appearance of some varieties of philodendron - photo gallery

Philodendrons are unpretentious, but require some simple growing rules.

Conditions of detention depending on the season - table

Features of landing and transplantation

Space and support requirements

Future owners of philodendrons should be guided not only by their appearance, but also by the amount of space in the room. Tree-like varieties are especially demanding on living space. Most often they are used to decorate country houses and office premises due to their large size. At the same time, one should not forget that the lack of living space leads to significant plant injuries, leaf fall and wilting. As a result, the philodendron may lose its attractiveness.

If the choice fell in favor of vines, they should be provided with comfortable support. Such philodendrons in the process of growth cling to aerial roots. Therefore, the choice should be stopped on supports entwined with a suitable material, such as moss or coconut fiber. Branched coasters also look great. With skillful pinching of the shoots, the philodendron braids them very quickly.

Soil requirements for planting

Most varieties of philodendron grow well on slightly acidic and neutral substrates. At the same time, they need the soil to be sufficiently loose and light. Therefore, the soil should be mixed with sand, peat or humus in a ratio of 1: 1. Of the commercially available substrates for philodendrons, soils designed for violets and orchids are best suited. At the same time, baking powder should also be added to them. Without fail, expanded clay, small pebbles or broken bricks are poured onto the bottom of the pot.

Pot and transplant

Philodendron feels most comfortable in a rather cramped pot. As soon as the roots intertwine into a tight ball, the plant needs a transplant. To do this, take a pot that will be about 10% larger than the previous one.

A philodendron transplant is usually required every three years. It is best to produce it in late winter or early spring. After transplanting for about 14 days, the plant should be well shaded and watering should be reduced.

Step by step process

Planting a philodendron does not require special skills. However, in order for the plant to feel comfortable, the following instructions must be followed:

Drainage is poured into the bottom of the pot. It should be quite a lot - at least a quarter of the height of the vessel.

Pre-prepared soil is poured over the drainage.

The plant is planted in the soil so that the roots are completely covered with earth. In this case, care should be taken that the growing point is not covered in small philodendrons.

The plant is watered abundantly.

Philodendron Care

Philodendron is a rather unpretentious plant. However, in order for it to feel comfortable and actively develop, a number of simple conditions must be observed.

Watering and required air humidity

Philodendrons require regular watering. It is undesirable to allow the soil to dry out. If you rarely water a flower, this can affect its appearance. The leaves of philodendrons in this case become small and lose their attractiveness.

For irrigation, use soft water, devoid of chlorine. Well suited spring non-mineral water. When watering with tap water, it must first be defended for several days.

The air when growing philodendrons must be sufficiently humid. The flower reacts to its dryness by chopping the leaves and losing their decorative properties. Therefore, in hot summers and winters, when the heating is turned on, the philodendron should be sprayed regularly - at least once a day.

How to fertilize philodendron

In summer, plants need to be fed with ordinary store-bought fertilizers at least weekly, in winter, monthly feeding is sufficient. If the liana is large, in the summer you can add humus once to the top layer of the substrate.

Feed the philodendron only after thorough watering, otherwise the excess salts in the soil can harm it. When choosing a fertilizer, it is recommended to purchase complex ones. If you want to accelerate the growth of a flower, you should feed it with compounds with a high nitrogen content.

The plant does not tolerate excess fertilizer - its leaves rust and wither. If too much fertilizer is added, then the philodendron does not need to be fed for at least 2 months.

Usually, the philodendron can handle excess fertilizer on its own for some time, but if the concentration of minerals in the soil is too high, the plant will have to be replanted. You can simply rinse the earth by placing the pot under a stream of water at room temperature for 15 minutes, it should not stagnate, completely leaving through the hole at the bottom.

A plant bought in a store should be fed after 2-4 weeks, and if you grew it yourself, then when the first shoots appear. Plants that have been transplanted can not be fed for the first six months.

If the philodendron is not transplanted on time and fed irregularly, the leaves will begin to shrink, and the tips will turn yellow and dry. The plant begins to grow more slowly, underfeeding negatively affects the thickness of the trunk.

Philodendron actively develops throughout the year. He does not need a rest period.

Errors in care and how to eliminate them - table

Most often, diseases and pests affect weakened plants, therefore, for their prevention, proper care should be provided to the philodendron. Nevertheless, any grower should know how flower ailments manifest themselves, how to deal with them.

Disease and pest control - table

Increase content temperature.

Water the plant thoroughly and cover with a bag for 3 days.

With a high degree of damage, wipe the leaves with soapy water, then treat the flower with Fitoverm (10 ml of the drug is diluted in 1 liter of water). Spraying is carried out once a week for a month.

1. Transplant to new soil.
2. Treatment with Actellik, as in the case of damage by scale insects.

Philodendron pests in the photo

Reproduction of philodendron at home

Philodendrons can be propagated by cuttings or seeds.

Rooting cuttings with leaves

When propagating by cuttings, it is enough to cut off the top with several leaves. An additional plus is the presence of aerial roots.

To root a philodendron, you will need the following:

3. Sections of the cuttings must be treated with activated charcoal powder and left in the air for 3-4 hours.
4. Prepare the ground. To do this, mix peat and sand in equal proportions, water thoroughly.
5. Stick the cuttings into the finished substrate.
6. Cover the pots with foil and secure it well so that air does not get inside. You can also use glass jars if there is a suitable volume. Cuttings need good lighting and a temperature of about 30?
7. Once every few days, you should briefly open the greenhouse to spray the soil. After a month, you can increase the ventilation time, and after another 30 days, remove the greenhouse.
8. When new leaves appear, philodendrons can be transplanted into larger pots and cared for as adults.

If you propagate the philodendron with aerial layering, the aerial-rooted stem does not need to be cut from the plant. It is enough to attach the roots to the surface of the soil with a hairpin. As soon as the layer takes root, it can be cut off from the mother plant.

Growing from seeds

Since the philodendron practically does not bloom at home, seeds should be purchased at the store. As a rule, the manufacturer indicates their germination on the packaging, usually it is 80%.

Instructions for sowing seeds:

9. For a day, soak the seeds in a solution of potassium humate, HB-101 or another growth stimulant, diluted in accordance with the attached description.
10. Fill pots with sand and water well. The substrate should first be shed with boiling water or heated in the oven.
11. Lay the seeds on the surface and sprinkle with water.
12. Cover the pots with foil or glass and place in a warm and well-lit place.
13. Do not let the soil dry out, and air your plantings for a few minutes every day.

Philodendron germinates 1.5–2 months after planting the seeds. From the moment of germination, gradually accustom the plant to air, increasing the ventilation time. As soon as real leaves appear, you can dive sprouts into pots. After a year, transplant the philodendron again and care as usual.