How to boil boar fangs? Processing and design of hunting trophies What can be made from a boar tusk. Processing and decoration of hunting trophies What to make from wild boar fangs

An adult boar usually has 44 teeth (12 incisors, 4 canines, 16 anterior and 12 posterior). The incisors, canines, second, third, and fourth anterior molars are diphyodont, i.e., they have two generations. All posterior teeth have no milk predecessors. Anteriolar P11 do not change and remain milky all their lives, and often do not appear in the lower jaw at all.

A brief description of age-related changes in individual groups of teeth can be summarized as follows.

incisors. They are located in the extreme anterior part of the skull. On the lower jaw they are directed straight forward, and on the upper jaw they grow perpendicularly down. Newborns have third incisors on both jaws. At the age of 12-15 days, the first pair of teeth erupt through the gum, first in the lower and then in the upper jaw, but they grow relatively slowly: at 2 months of age they reach 0.5 cm in length. 3-month-old individuals already have all the milk incisors. The replacement of milk teeth with definitive ones occurs in the same sequence as the appearance of milk teeth: I3 erupt and are replaced at 9-10 months, I1 - at 15-16, and I2 - at the end of the 2nd - beginning of the 3rd year of life. Homologous teeth in the upper jaw usually erupt only when the lower teeth reach about 2/3 of their definitive length.

fangs. Newborns have both pairs of milk fangs, outwardly very similar to the third incisors. Milk fangs grow slowly and persist only until 10-11 months of age. The most characteristic feature of the definitive fangs of males is their constant and rather rapid growth almost throughout their life, while in females the fangs grow only up to 4-5 years and very slowly. The lower fangs in adult males are directed upwards and to the sides, slightly bending back. The upper ones, starting from the 2nd year of life, grow down and to the sides, and by the end of the 3rd year, their tops begin to bend upwards and the more, the older the boar. Both pairs of canines gradually increase with age both in length and in diameter, reaching their maximum size in old males. Our observations and study of the fangs of males show that they can be used to some extent to determine the age. Figure 2 shows how the shape, size and wear of canines in males change depending on age. However, fangs by themselves cannot serve as a sure sign for determining the age of animals, since within each age group a wide range of variability in their size is found. Note that the length of the canine was measured along a large bend from the border of the alveolus to the top of the tooth, and the width - in the widest place at the level of the bone alveolus. The lower fangs in males are trihedral, the upper ones are rounded; in females, the lower ones are trihedral-rounded, and the upper ones are flat. In males, the length of the lower canine along the outer large bend from the root to the top reaches 230, and the upper canine - 140 mm; in females - 100 and 55 mm, respectively.

Anterior root. In a wild boar, all anterior and posterior molars (both deciduous and definitive) are placed close to each other, forming a compact row. Only in the lower jaw, the first pair is located apart between the canines and the second premolars.

On the 5-8th day after birth, the fourth pair of teeth protrudes noticeably from the alveoli on the lower jaw, and the third pair of teeth on the upper jaw: P4 erupt and develop after P3. By the age of 1.5 months, piglets have the first and third pairs of incisors, canines, as well as the third and fourth anterior teeth; the tops of the second incisors and the second anterior roots are cut through the bone alveolus. In the future, the growth and development of milk teeth proceed quickly and in a short time, which can be explained by the gradual transition of piglets from feeding on mother's milk to self-procurement of food. Young animals of 3-4 months of age already have well-developed anterior molars, with the exception of the first pair, which usually forms after the rest.

The replacement of milk anterior molars with definitive teeth begins at 15-16 months, with the fourth pair on the lower jaw erupting first; it grows rapidly, reaching full development by 18-20 months, while the third pair by this time grows only to 2/3 of its size, and the second is just erupting. In general, all definitive anterior teeth of the lower jaw are finally formed by the age of 22-24 months. However, if the milk teeth are largely adapted to crushing and grinding food, then all permanent premolars are mostly only crushing or cutting. This is due to the fact that the function of crushing food in 2-3-year-old wild boars is carried by developing posterior teeth.

posterior root. The first pair of posterior teeth erupt at the age of 4 months, and by 6 months it is already fully developed, but traces of wear on the tops of the tubercles appear only by 10 months. The development of the second is generally completed by 18-20 months, and the third - by the end of the 3rd year of the boar's life. The molars grow strictly alternately: the postalveolar differentiation of each tooth occurs only when the previous one is finally formed. The degree of wear of the cusps and surfaces of the crowns of the teeth also increases consistently. This sequence is one of the best diagnostic signs for establishing a scale of age-related changes in teeth.

ALEX55555 05-03-2010 20:11

fellow hunters, the jaw of a hooker is lying from last year, teach how to boil fangs ...

Petr...sh 05-03-2010 20:55

I'm not an expert on wild boars at all, more on fangs.
I know quite well about the tusk bear. I will tell you that when I took the maral trophy from the master, I saw boar tusks at the restoration. To the question, what are they cracking? Yes. And very strongly. It seems that everything is correct, everything is done according to science and everything is expensive and the most, but they are cracking. And they burst, and with a screw, and, in every way.
And therefore. It is better to contact the master. Or stupidly fill with epoxy and paste into place.

I repeat, I am zero in this. And my opinion is stupid. (I do it myself, and cover the cracks with auto-sealant)

SHULGA 07-03-2010 13:09

I do this: I immerse in water (with a large supply of water) and, on low heat, boil for several hours. After that, having cooled in a natural way, I take out the fangs. There are moments when the fangs in the boiled jaw dangle freely, but cannot be removed even with effort, then the jaw is carefully destroyed with improvised means (it is convenient to “pinch off” a piece with pliers). You need to be MAXIMUM careful with the edges of the fangs (those in the jaw) - very delicate and fragile.
Next, I treat the extracted fangs with a degreasing agent (you can use good gasoline for lighters), dry well in a NATURAL WAY. Ready.
Storage: I fill it STAGE-by-STEP with zpoxide (the maximum possible liquid consistency), let it harden well. I process the outer side thinly with the most ordinary superglue (it fills microcracks well and does not shine). I place it on a medallion - I attach it using thin straps-rings made of genuine leather. Preservation - ETERNAL, if every 3-5 years again thinly cover the outside with superglue. Appearance - NATURAL.

ALEX55555 09-03-2010 10:19

Thank you friends ... I boiled it, pulled it out, now according to the recommendations and I think they will go for a medallion ...

Bylbash 20-04-2010 19:39

Cook for no more than 30 minutes, so as not to become brittle.
For the past 4 years they have been hanging in the apartment and do not crack.
in the country, too, everything is excellent, but there is more humidity

Sergey outfitter 24-04-2010 03:48

Yes, rather than boiled in 40 minutes, what could be pulled out?

tracker 10-08-2010 20:27

GREAT TROPHY! Where did you get it?

Bylbash 12-08-2010 18:09

Yes, rather than boiled in 40 minutes, what could be pulled out?

Believe!
I put it in water and after 20 minutes I try to press it inward and loosen it a little
Sometimes they even go like this
after 20 minutes I try again and in 90% of cases everything is OK!

Here he gave the fangs to Nemansky for evaluation, he said that the medal, although weak, is there
boiled for 15-20 minutes

Sergey outfitter 16-08-2010 09:17

All of them are the largest found exactly in the Far Eastern taiga and mainly around Khabarovsk! Here, no one feeds them, so they themselves plow with fangs to get tops of roots! And as you know, clicks are growing from this!

Neman 16-08-2010 11:08

quote: Originally posted by Bylbash:

I stir and pull out with rotational movements.

You didn't say you were filling with white "sanitary" silicone. Looks like it's also an option for cracking.
But the enamel, as a rule, with cracks during life, should be covered with special mixtures. In advanced taxidermy workshops, the remedy is available.

quote: Originally posted by Sergey outfitter:

Here, no one feeds them, so they themselves plow with fangs to get tops of roots! And as you know, clicks are growing from this!

Well, they don't feed not only in the Far East.
However, the more often a boar has to shovel the FROZEN ground, the more likely it is that it will break off its fangs.
Yes, and the fangs grow on their own, and not at all because they receive a load in the form of ground "silicium" or stones.
It all depends on the physiological characteristics of a particular individual and the lack of minerals.

Neman 16-08-2010 11:10

quote: Originally posted by Sergey outfitter:

this cliques were 31 cm each!

Sergey outfitter 17-08-2010 08:10

Is it possible to see these fangs? Or at least look at the trophy list? Or a measurement protocol? In extreme cases - a photo extracted against the background of the ruler?

It is possible, but only in Italy now they hang at Antonio and Alfonso, probably in the most prominent places!

Sergey outfitter 17-08-2010 08:12

quote: Originally posted by Sergey outfitter:

Is it possible to see these fangs? Or at least look at the trophy list? Or a measurement protocol? In extreme cases - a photo extracted against the background of the ruler?

These are some as soon as they were removed from the jaws
http://www.welcome.khv.ru/hunting/WILDBOAR/wildboar%20hunt.JPG

Neman 17-08-2010 12:56

Weidmann's Heil 19-08-2010 03:33

Fangs crack from changes in% humidity and temperature changes in the room. Therefore, boiled and immediately pulled out into the air burst especially quickly, it is better for them, as already mentioned here, to cool in a saucepan, then wrap in a rag, paper and a plastic bag on a shelf. I tried to get fangs without boiling, by rotting. After that, they stink a little, and even dirtier than boiled ones, but they crackle less, although they still crackle. Now I have adapted to protect them with cyanoacrylate glue, as fluid as possible, it is less noticeable than epoxy. After walking with fine metal wool. Glue like this http://shintop.ru/novokusnetsk/catalog_shop.php?action=item&id=1271300527 or similar. This is cotton wool http://www.sibglazier.ru/catalog.html/prods/tehnologija-nakladnogo-vitrazha/instrumenty-i-aksessuary/regalead/metallicheskaja-vata-20720

------------------
However

Sergey outfitter 23-09-2010 03:49

quote: Originally posted by Nemansky:

There is no 31 cm on the photo. Ordinary ordinary fangs.

Trust me! there are 31, but the fact that they are ordinary, who would argue, all fangs are the same!

oos 22-02-2011 20:21

Probably off topic, but I didn’t find a better place. They brought a boar’s head with such fangs (right 35 cm, left 38). The upper fangs are underdeveloped. The boar was said to be ordinary, 120 kilograms.

Boar tusk processing

To extract the fangs of a wild boar, a part of the animal's muzzle is sawn off between the eyes and fangs, as shown in Figure 69. This piece of muzzle must be at least three and a half times longer than the visible part of the lower fangs. The sawn off part is placed in a cauldron of cold water so that it is completely hidden under water. The water is brought to a boil and simmered for 2-3 hours. After boiling, the jaws with fangs are removed from the boiler and, without letting them cool, the fangs are removed. To avoid burns, use gloves or rags. The upper fangs are usually easily removed, and to extract the lower ones, they need to be pulled forward 3–5 cm, and then the jaw bones are carefully opened from the back so that the fangs come out freely. Then the fangs are placed in a cauldron of hot oily water to cool. They should not be left without water and washed with cold water. The fang, cooling in oily water, is saturated with fat and acquires a protective layer. After cooling, the nerves are removed from the fangs and the inner surface is wiped with cotton wool, dried in a humid and warm place to avoid cracking.

Rice. 69. Extraction of boar tusks

After drying, the fangs are degreased with gasoline. It is recommended to fill the inside of the fangs with BF glue (any) and, holding it inside for 5–10 s, pour it out, repeating this two or three times at intervals of 30 minutes. Before this, the glue is heated in a bowl with warm water so that it pours out more easily. Instead of BF glue, the inside of the fangs can be filled with epoxy resin of the following composition: 80 parts of filler and 20 hardener. Instead of glue, the canine cavities can be filled with tweezers with cotton soaked in epoxy resin; after 12 hours, the glue hardens, giving them greater strength.

So that the fangs do not deteriorate from changes in humidity, they can be covered with a thin layer of colorless synthetic varnish. Canine teeth cannot be bleached.

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Installation of wild boar tusks A wide variety of medallions are selected for the installation of tusks. In the center of the medallion, the upper fangs are symmetrically placed, and the lower ones are placed to the left and right (Fig. 70). To attach fangs to the medallion, special decorative frames made of various materials are used.

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Dmitry 76 04-07-2012 19:47

Good afternoon,
actually the question, please tell me where you can buy a budget medallion for boar fangs, preferably in Moscow
otherwise the situation, I got a wild boar, boiled the fangs myself, processed them myself, poked in to buy a medallion, and in all taxidermy, they say, they say, bring the fangs, we will fix them for you on average for 2500 rubles, well, or we will sell the medallion at the same price. And they don’t sell medallions separately anywhere. In general, hucksters, I have already done all the work myself, and they want to make money.

Dmitry 76 12-07-2012 03:58
thank you, the store pleased

Burdon 06-08-2012 11:38

thanks for the tip, the store is really interesting!
and how to fix the fangs to the medallion - who would have suggested?

Dmitry 76 14-08-2012 01:07

quote: and how to fix the fangs to the medallion - who would have suggested?

also join this thread

Ruslan33 15-08-2012 18:19

There are bronze or bronze-looking plugs with special fastenings for fangs in the form of strips, as in baguette frames, you can search here: http://www.taxidermy.su/katalog/komplektuyshie/nakladkadlyklykov/. filled fangs on the inside (as if one wall that will adjoin the medallion) two on each canine. preliminarily symmetrically marking, with simple pressure if the wood is soft or into drilled holes equal in diameter to the nail. For reliability and to avoid falling out, the nails can be bent in different directions.

Dmitry 76 16-08-2012 02:34

quote: the pulp is cleaned.

By the way, how do you clean it?

Naur 16-08-2012 10:18

quote: By the way, how do you clean it?

After boiling, it falls out by itself, the main thing is to degrease and soak in hydrogen peroxide in order to finally clean the canine cavity.

Ruslan33 28-11-2012 18:20

With a size of up to 20 cm (lower fangs) will fit.

Mikhail_RnD 01-12-2012 22:11

Ruslan33 02-12-2012 15:31

quote: how to remove it now? Just sandpaper-zero? Is this allowed?

Why not, you can try first to scrape it off with something, and then trim it with a knife or drill. Sometimes on very large upper fangs, after all the procedures, a hole is formed at the place where they are erased on the lower ones. In such cases, I stick adhesive tape and then fill the canine cavity. polymerization resin adhesive tape is easy to remove.

ABN 02-12-2012 22:11

quote: how to remove it now?

Cut a lot more than a thread. Clean the rest with a swab with acetone.
Longer than sandpaper, but more accurate.

Dmitry 76 02-12-2012 22:12

and my fangs began to crack, maybe fill their insides with something?

Mikhail_RnD 02-12-2012 22:20

quote: my fangs began to crack, maybe fill their insides with something?

Well, actually, it should have been done before.

Dmitry 76 11-12-2012 02:35

quote: Well, actually, it should have been done before.

how? and outside too, than?

hunter84 11-12-2012 08:57

quote: Originally posted by Mikhail_RnD:

And also, tell me such a moment, please - when you filled the fangs with epoxy - the upper ones got very dirty with it, how can I remove it now? Just sandpaper-zero? Is this allowed?

Well, they already told you about the frozen one, but for the future, if you immediately noticed that they were dirty, then at the moment when it had already seized (gelled) it can be easily cleaned off with a wooden stick

Edward18 11-12-2012 22:56

quote: what to pour?

quote: for the future

When pouring epoxy, take your time. At the very end, add it drop by drop, with a long time interval between drops. And yet, try to place the fangs when pouring so that the upper cut (canine cavity) is parallel to the table.

Mikhail_RnD 08-01-2013 23:24

Does it make sense to cover the outside with something? And then, for example, the enamel began to fall off from the edges of the freshly boiled upper fangs.

hunter84 09-01-2013 08:00

from what is widely available, PVA can be advised

Mikhail_RnD 09-01-2013 16:14

It also has a color - the fangs will be covered with white, and this is not good.

Ruslan33 09-01-2013 17:59

PVA is transparent after drying.

Mikhail_RnD 05-02-2013 15:40

quote: But on this http://www.wht.ru/shop/catalog...w_cut/19696.php
the fangs of the boar will land, right?

For some reason, this site to my order only responds with a wave of spam to soap.
Where to get such a medallion, no one will tell you?

Mikhail_RnD 05-03-2013 16:23

All the same, here is such a medallion:
http://www.wht.ru/shop/catalog...w_cut/19696.php
Now just figure out how to attach fangs to it. There are no adequate options other than drilling them?

Ruslan33 05-03-2013 17:15

As an option, drill a medallion and pull it onto wires or a plug.

Mikhail_RnD 06-03-2013 09:08

quote: or tighten with a plug.

The fact of the matter is that the stub is beautiful, but with its configuration of the reverse side it does not allow the fangs to be adequately drawn.

Ruslan33 06-03-2013 10:22

One of my acquaintances glues fangs to the medallion and a plug to the fangs with hot glue and does not bother - a non-removable option.

Edward18 06-03-2013 19:28

I mount the "removable" version as follows: I glue a piece of copper wire D = 1.5 mm from the end into each canine. Then I mount it on the medallion, bending the ends of the wire from the back. This allows evaluators to lift the canine from the medallion and measure. The plug is removable: either on a bolt or I also solder a copper wire. Additionally, I supply large fangs with small pieces of double-sided thick tape for additional attachment to the medallion, which eliminates chatter. Unfortunately there is no photo, but I think the meaning is clear.

Published on 06.05.2017 Views: 3

One of the main requirements for the design of trophies of both wild boar and other animals: the trophy should be easily removed from the medallion. This unwritten rule applies primarily to those trophies that will be judged by experts or intended to be shown at exhibitions. In these cases, the owner of the trophy needs to do everything so that the judges can easily and effortlessly remove the trophy from the medallion, make the necessary measurements and then just as easily and conveniently attach it back. In the end, what trophy the hunter gives for evaluation is the one he wants to get back. But is this possible if, for example, the fangs are glued to the medallion with epoxy resin? Therefore, do not be surprised and do not raise a fuss if in this case the experts refuse to evaluate your trophy.

In order to avoid such an unpleasant situation and to ensure that your trophy is perfectly prepared for display, below are the basic principles for the primary processing of wild boar tusks.

If you got a trophy boar, then you should act like this:

It is necessary to skin the pig's head, separating as much excess meat as possible.

The head must be boiled. In order not to cook the upper and lower jaws completely, you can file them, but you need to keep in mind that only 1/3 of the canine is located on the outside of the lower jaw, and 2/3 are hidden in the bone itself. You need to carefully calculate how much to saw off so as not to damage the canine. The same applies to the upper fangs, which are immersed in the jaw by more than half. It is not recommended to separate the upper and lower jaws before cooking, as the fangs may crack. In no case should the jaw bones be cut - in the "raw" form, the fangs are very fragile, especially in the part that is inside the jaw.

The next principle related to cooking fangs is that the trophy should be placed in cold water. Cooked fangs need to be cooled without getting out of the water. The purpose of this is to get rid of sudden changes in temperature, which will protect the fangs from cracking.

In no case should you boil the head of a boar under pressure, trying to reduce the cooking time. Know that in this case the fangs will be damaged irrevocably.

After cooking, the fangs must be separated from the bone. The tusks of an adult boar are simply pulled out, while the tusks of a young boar are usually removed by breaking the jawbone.

When the fangs are removed from the bone, they must be cleaned of fat with a simple rag using laundry soap. In no case should bleaching powders be used - they affect the color of the canine, and in this case the trophy is lost as such.

When the cleaning is finished, taking into account the experience of many hunters, it can be advised to apply the "PVA glue method". Glue is poured into the fang, wait a moment, then the excess glue is poured out and waiting for it to dry on the inside of the fang. This is done twice. This creates a layer of glue that will not allow the fangs to fall apart if they crack. Then all the free space inside the canine is filled with cotton. The top layer of cotton wool is poured with PVA glue, they wait until everything dries and ... the fangs are ready!

By no means should one follow the example of such "masters" who fill the fangs with epoxy, and, in addition, put nails in the resin so that they can be attached to the locket. When the resin cures, due to the force of surface tension, the enameled part of the canine tooth can separate over time, as the resin is compressed more than the canine itself. The size of the canine changes (width decreases) only for the first time. It is not for nothing that this trophy is allowed to be evaluated no earlier than two months after extraction. At this time, significant changes occur, and further changes are of little importance.

In addition, it may be advisable, after filling with cotton and glue, to dip the fangs in liquid paraffin, or, even better, dip the cotton in paraffin and cover the trophy with it to avoid being affected by strong temperature fluctuations. The canine treated in this way is protected from the effects of temperature and humidity, however, there have been cases when, after many years, paraffin-treated canines also deteriorated. The microclimate is more important: if the trophy is in a hunting lodge or a room where the humidity level is relatively stable, then no damage threatens it, but rooms with central heating are less friendly with trophies.
And, finally, about attaching the trophy to the medallion. This can be done without damaging the fangs using decorative loops or other methods, but most importantly, as mentioned at the beginning of the article, the trophy should be easily removed and attached to its place.