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Gilex submersible pump assembly and repair. DIY water jet pump repair and installation. Malfunctions that are not written about in the passport

Submersible pump "Vodomet" - this unit is on a par with the well-known "Malysh" and "Rucheyok" - brands whose name was transformed into a proper name, denoting a whole niche in the market for small-sized and simple pumps for autonomous wells.

At the same time, all of the above-mentioned units attract consumers not only with their reasonable price and noticeable performance, but also with the ease with which repair work is carried out to restore the functionality of the pumps.

Therefore, in this article we will look at repairing the Gilex Vodomet pump using the 60/52 model as an example. In a word, we invite you to appreciate the simplicity of the design solution of this unit and get acquainted with the secrets of its repair. Perhaps this will determine your preferences when choosing a pump for an autonomous water supply.

Borehole pumps "Vodomet": overview of the typical design

The basis of any pump is the casing. And this part of the “Water Cannon” unit is made in the form of a metal cylinder. It is in it that the engine is mounted, on the shaft of which the impeller is placed.

Moreover, the impeller is separated from the engine compartment by a special liner through which the shaft passes. In turn, the impeller itself consists of a repeating set of disks, alternating in the following order:

1 - First white disk with external blades, 2 - First black washer, matching in diameter with the white disk, 3 - First “glass” with internal blades, 4 - Second white disk with blades, 5 - Second washer, 6 - Third white disk with blades, 7 — Second “glass” with internal blades, 8 — Third washer, 9 — Fourth disk with external blades, 10 — Third “glass” with internal blades, 11 — Fourth washer, 12 — Fourth “glass” with internal blades, 13 — Fifth washer, 14 — White plug with perforation in the center, 15 —
Black lid with a round hole in the center, 16 - Short cylinder with a mesh at the bottom - filter element

This is exactly how any Vodomet pump is designed. That is, a similar alternation of disks, washers and “cups” is present in models designed to operate in 5-meter water columns (series 60/32, 150/30), and in devices submersible to 20-40 meters (series 60 /52, 150/45). During assembly, a small anti-friction washer (blue and white) is installed between each element. All other elements - washers, disks, and “cups” - are made of polyamide.

This pump is designed for vertical installation in clean water, which is quite typical for all submersible units of the Vodomet brand. Moreover, its design is practically no different from similar products from other model ranges of this brand. Therefore, the repair procedure applicable to model 60/52 can be extended to other pumps from .

Repairing the Vodomet 60/52 pump: how it’s done

Submersible pumps fail for three reasons:

  • Firstly, in case of siltation of the impeller.
  • Secondly, in the event of a break in the electrical cable.
  • Thirdly, in case of failure of engine compartment components (stator or rotor).

Moreover, when diagnosing a problem, you should be guided by the following rules:

  • If during a test run the shaft of a pump removed from the well rotates, then the impeller is the problem area. Clean it of sludge and the pump can be reassembled in reverse order.
  • If the pump does not even turn on, then you need to check (ring with a tester) the power cable. If there is voltage at the engine compartment terminals, then the cable is intact. Well, if not, then it will have to be replaced with a new one. Finding a break and fixing it by twisting or soldering is not the best idea. After all, the cable seal will still be broken.
  • If the cable is fine, then the problem is in the motor. And the pump will have to be disassembled to the engine compartment to remove and rewind the stator or rotor.

And in each case, repair of the unit begins with complete disassembly.

  • A short cylinder with a perforated bottom is screwed from the end of the pump - a filter element that protects the impeller from silting.
  • Next, all washers, “cups” and disks are removed from the pump motor shaft in the reverse order to that described above (in the review of the impeller design). Moreover, all numerous elements should be laid on a flat area of ​​the workbench in the order of removal from the body. After all, the impeller consists of 16 parts. And this is not counting the same number of anti-friction washers.
  • Further disassembly down to the engine compartment level begins with removing the engine retaining ring covering the engine cover. To do this, you need to hit the upper fitting with a mallet, move the engine down, and then pull the cord to return it to its place. Moreover, after all the manipulations, the sealing ring will remain in the “shifted” position. Next, the retaining ring is displaced by hitting it with a screwdriver to the part closest to the body. The stopper will warp, after which it can be removed.
  • After this, you need to disconnect the wires by opening the cover of the corresponding compartment, and, using a screwdriver and a mallet, “knock out” the engine from the housing.

After removal from the housing, the impeller elements are washed and dried, and the engine is sent for diagnostics and repair to a specialized workshop. After cleaning the impeller and updating the engine, the Vodomet 60/52 pump is assembled in the reverse order to that described above.

Owners of country houses and dachas have to independently organize water supply for their own plots. Agree, this is a very difficult task. And without a well pump it becomes simply unsolvable. Many homeowners, having studied the offers on the market, opt for Vodomet centrifugal well pumps manufactured by the Russian company Gilex.

These devices do an excellent job of supplying water from various structures, but from time to time they still break down. The fastest way to solve the problem is to repair the Vodomet pump yourself. This task cannot be called simple, but many home craftsmen cope with it more than satisfactorily.

We will talk about how the Vodomet pump works and how it works. We will also talk about the most common equipment breakdowns and their causes. The material contains thematic videos that will help you repair the pump yourself.

The design of the centrifugal pump “” is somewhat more complicated than that of the vibration pump “” or “”. At the bottom of the unit there is a sealed oil-filled engine, on the shaft of which unique cups are placed - elements with floating working wheels.

Depending on the power of the pump, there may be more or fewer such glasses. The top cover of the pump presses against all these elements and keeps them in the correct position. From this cover comes an electrical cable, a pipe for supplying water to the water main, and lugs for hanging the pump.

The Vodomet pump is a reliable technology with high efficiency. Its design allows you to perform many repairs at home

Floating impellers are the highlight of this unit. At the very beginning of work, they are ground into the structure by grinding off the plastic collar. As a result, a minimum gap is formed between the static and moving elements of the device. This design ensures high pump efficiency.

Another advantage of floating pump wheels is the ability to pass sand particles that fall into the well during natural sanding processes. Models of the “Water Jet A” type pump are designed in a similar way.

They are additionally equipped with a float switch, which is designed to turn off the device in the event of an emergency. For example, if the water in the source has dried up for some reason (low flow, flooding, etc.).

Over time, they expand, moisture penetrates into the housing and the engine becomes unusable. Contact can be broken in the same way. Cable breaks can be caused when installing the pump if the wire is kinked or accidentally broken.

The correct hanging depth is an important factor in the smooth operation of the pump. If the device is too deep and constantly works under increased load, it will quickly break

Impeller wear can be caused by prolonged contact with sand-contaminated water. The manufacturer, of course, does not recommend using a Vodomet to pump water containing up to two kilograms of sand and clay suspension for every cubic meter of water in the well.

However, the instructions do not say how contaminated the water can be and how long it can be transported without damaging the pump design.

Practice shows that Vodomet pumps can only be used in one capacity. Either to supply water to the water supply, or to remove sand from the well.

After pumping the sand-covered structure, the pump owner is surprised to observe the uneven operation of the pump. The reason is simple - the impellers are worn out and require replacement.

A non-trivial option for protecting the Vodomet pump from sanding when suspended too low. If it is not possible to hang the pump at the required height, you can use this protective attachment

It’s not difficult to correct the situation, but you can swing it after drilling in a more effective way: using a submersible vibration pump of the “Baby” or “Rucheek” type. Such equipment is cheaper and easier to repair.

Another reason for breakdowns of the Vodomet pump is improper suspension of the pump. If the immersion depth of the device exceeds the figure specified by the manufacturer, the device operates under increased loads for which it is not designed. Often in such situations, depressurization of the engine is observed.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The following material very clearly shows how to properly disassemble a water jet pump, as well as the process of reassembling one of the models:

Disassembling and repairing Vodomet pumps requires attention to detail and some skill. Over time, the task becomes quite feasible and familiar. Many DIYers service and repair these pumps with complete success.

It is difficult to find an alternative to a drainage pump in a private yard. Without it, it will be difficult to pump out a basement flooded with groundwater, drain water from the pool, and empty flooded drainage collectors. However, technology does not last forever, so the device may break, and before purchasing a new one, you will need to somehow figure out how to solve the problems. In this situation, repairing the drainage pump with or without a float will help.

Design features of floatless devices

The approximate pumping speed of water by the drainage system is about 180 liters per minute. Operating power depends on the following factors:

  • the conditions in which it is operated;
  • distance from a water source;
  • degree of immersion in liquid;
  • contamination of the pumped liquid.

It must be taken into account that repair of drainage pumps may be necessary after pumping out too hot water, because not all models are designed to work in extreme conditions.

Structure of drainage equipment

A modern drainage pump without a float has a pair of pipes in its design:

  • input, in contact with the sucked surface of the liquid from the reservoir;
  • outlet, diverting water to an area specified by the owner.

During the process, no drops of liquid should fall into the area of ​​the electric motor, as this could lead to its failure. In order to avoid repairing fecal pumps or other drainage systems, you should ensure that pumping occurs faster than inflow into the container.

Sewer systems can be connected through pipes, and they must be very clearly installed in relation to the diameters of the sewer pipes, practically eliminating the possible appearance of gaps.

The main advantage of a floatless drainage pump is its high degree of mobility. At the same time, repair of drainage pumps of this type is easier than their analogues.

Design of float devices

Schemes using floats are more secure. The relatively low cost of these units is also a positive factor. The float element responsible for switching off is usually located in a separate plastic box.

There are two types of such elements:

  • lightweight, relevant for water drainage and water supply;
  • heavy, in demand in storm drains and sewers.

When choosing a float, it is necessary to check its maximum tightness and high-quality insulation of the supply cable.

The most common problems

If the fecal pump does not work or repair of Gilex pumps is required, then the following cases may be the probable causes of breakdowns:

  • the motor winding has burnt out, and a characteristic odor may appear;
  • the float may be jammed below the launch horizontal;
  • the starting capacitor has failed;
  • the impeller is wedged due to the ingress of foreign mechanical particles.

It is also necessary to repair the Gilex pump yourself if you hear a hum from it, but the water is not pumping:

  • the rod has broken;
  • the operating valve is damaged;
  • the shock absorber rod mount has become loose;
  • The electrical cable is damaged.

This list includes the most popular causes of breakdowns, but individual situations occur or several emergency situations occur simultaneously.

Restoration work

Do-it-yourself repair of a Gilex pump or other drainage equipment is not always possible without special tools. In some cases, even they will not help, since expensive replacement of parts or entire units will be required.

The most popular types of repair are to release the float or remove particles blocking the rotation of the fiber. You will also be able to fix the shock absorber yourself or replace the cable. The shock absorber is fixed in a disassembled housing. The threads on the mounting bolts are tightened, and the upper nuts must be tightened.

It takes some time to repair the cable, and not all models can be replaced with your own hands.

If the rod breaks, this part is practically irreparable. You will have to purchase new equipment. Valve repair is also an unprofitable operation.

If you have knowledge of electrical engineering and there is a sufficient amount of wire to rewind the electric motor, then this procedure is carried out at home. Some repair shops offer to perform this part of the repair of Gilex pumps for a relatively small fee.

VIDEO: Dismantling and repairing drainage

Repairing a damaged cable

Cable damage may not be noticeable in all situations. A frayed winding will be visible from the outside, but it is problematic to determine a break in the internal part without external signs.

It is important to determine the point where the breakdown occurred. One of the popular places is the bend near the plug or where the cable enters the pump housing. In this situation, experienced specialists act by manual verification.

To carry out restoration work, you will need to disassemble the case, but there may be unpleasant surprises associated with the use of exotic shaped screwdrivers. This is often used to protect the product from unprofessional tampering.

When dismantling the cover, you need to carefully rock it, without making sudden jerks, so as not to damage the winding. The cavity contains a tensioner. It is usually dismantled by unscrewing 3 or 4 bolts.

The cable must be removed and cut higher from the break point, after which it will need to be returned back. However, this operation is not as simple as it seems at first glance. A wire swollen with water will increase in diameter and will not return to the hole or groove. A small amount of machine oil will come to the rescue, making installation easier.

The coupling does not need to be removed, as this may result in damage to the part.

The cable is installed in its place, the tensioner is returned and reliable insulation is ensured. When installing the cover in its place, it is necessary to ensure a clear alignment of the fixing grooves on the body to ensure maximum tightness.

VIDEO: Why the drain won't start

Why doesn't the work pump pump?

Very often, equipment begins to fail not for any specific reason, but, for example, during critical voltage drops in the electrical network. If there is a pump breakdown, it is advisable to check the voltage. Normally this should be 220-240V. If this indicator is correct, then the issue of repair can already be resolved.

To avoid problems with the winding and in general with the operation of the equipment, it is necessary to install a voltage stabilizer, which during operation aligns the plug and all equipment works correctly.

Dive scheme

Also, a visually intact and functional pump may not pump water for the following reasons:

  • air has accumulated in the water intake;
  • there is not enough water volume for work - you need to lower the hose deeper or the pump itself, if we are talking about a submersible one;
  • the water intake is not immersed in water;
  • if the so-called “frog” is an idle speed blocker; it can get stuck and cut off power to the equipment.

The above problems can be corrected very easily - it is enough to either completely immerse the water intake part in water or tilt it so that all the air comes out, or simply unhook the stuck “frog”. In general, it should be noted that all problems must be corrected in a timely manner and this work must be entrusted to professionals.

VIDEO: Drainage pump repair

No device, no matter how reliable it is, works forever. Alas! This also applies to pumps for water supply systems. Therefore, at the end of the topic about pumping equipment, let’s figure out what types of pumping station malfunctions and how to repair a pumping station with your own hands. If you were looking for: water supply pumping station faults, home pumping station faults, water pumping station faults, pumping station pressure switch faults... then this article is still for you. Further I will simply list possible faults and “correct” them.

The pumping station is working (the pump is spinning), but there is no water:

The steps to resolve this issue are as follows:

  • First of all, you need to check the check valve, which is located in the water in a well or well. It often happens that sand or debris gets into it and the valve does not close. In this case, the water does not rise through the pipes to the pump.
  • Secondly, check the presence of water in the pipeline between the well and the pump. The pump must also be filled with water; if there is no water, fill it through the filler hole.
  • Very large gap between the impeller and the pump housing. The pump simply works on its own. The reason for this may be the high content of abrasive substances in the water, such as sand. In this case, you should change the housing and impeller, if they are commercially available, or the entire pump (but not the entire station!).
  • The well/well simply ran out of water. The solution is to try lowering the suction pipeline or hose deeper. But remember: the distance from the water level in the well to the pump should not exceed that indicated on the pump, usually 8-9 m.

The pump pumps jerkily (turns on/off very often):

To fix this problem, you need to do the following:

  • Pay attention to the pressure gauge, which is located on the automation unit.

    If the pressure gauge needle rises to the pressure at which the station was set (at which point the pump will turn off), then drops sharply until it turns on, then there may be the following reasons:

  • there is no air pressure in the hydraulic tank. At the factory, nitrogen is pumped into the tank to a pressure of 1.5 atm. Sometimes, due to corrosion, cracks appear in the tank body and the pressure does not hold for long. You need to find the leak and seal the crack (for example, “cold welding”). You can check the air pressure in the hydraulic tank by connecting a pressure gauge (at least a car gauge) to the nipple. The pressure in the tank may not necessarily be due to a crack, but simply due to unknown reasons, the air has escaped. Then you don’t need to drive yourself crazy in search of non-existent cracks, but simply pump up the air with a pump (in fact, that’s where you should start);
  • rupture of the diaphragm separating air and water in the tank. You can check this through the nipple: if water flows from the nipple, it means the diaphragm is damaged;
  • doesn't work pressure switch, which controls the activation of the pump.

The pump pumps, but the water flows intermittently (jerkily):

The cause of this malfunction of the pumping station and measures to eliminate it are as follows:

  • There is an air leak somewhere. It is necessary to check the suction pipeline from the wells to the pump, the connections and the water level in the well. The suction height should not exceed 8-9 m (for a pipe diameter of 1” - 25 mm; if the pipe is of a smaller diameter, for example, 1/2”, then the height should be less).

The pump pumps, water flows, but the pump does not turn off:

This is precisely the reason - a malfunction of the pressure switch of the pumping station, which we deal with as follows:

  • The pressure switch needs to be adjusted.

    Malfunctions of pumping stations and their elimination

    For adjustment, the relay has two springs, large and small:

A large spring regulates the pump on/off (upper and lower limits). The difference in pressure between the upper and lower limits is regulated by a small one. After prolonged use of the pump, the moving parts of the pump wear out, and over time the pump can no longer create the pressure that was “prescribed” to it at the factory. Therefore, you need to reduce it using a large spring, turning it in the direction of the arrow to “-”. However, you should not get carried away with such adjustments;

  • The inlet hole in the pressure switch is clogged:

If the water quality is low, then sometimes hardness salts form and the hole in the pressure switch becomes clogged. The relay simply stops responding. You need to remove the relay and clean it.

The pump does not turn on:

Here are the steps to resolve this pumping station problem:

  • look at the contacts of the pressure switch - use a tester to check the presence of power supply. If the contacts are burnt, clean them (for example, with fine sandpaper or a needle file);
  • check the pump motor, check the contacts, power supply, “ring” for the integrity of the winding, check the validity of the starting capacitor. If the motor burns out, it should be rewound or replaced with a new one.

The pump hums, but does not spin:

The reasons for this pumping station malfunction are as follows:

  • It happens that the pump spent the winter somewhere in a barn, and in the spring they took it out and tried to start it. But it begins to hum... Due to the fact that the pump was left without water and without movement for a long time, the pump impeller “glued” to the housing. You need to manually rotate the impeller from the back side, and then plug it into the network;
  • the capacitor has failed (located in the branded engine box);
  • It is necessary to check the voltage in the electrical network, perhaps it is simply too low.

That's all (or almost all) that can be said about malfunction of the pumping station for home water supply systems and about repairing a pumping station with your own hands.

pumping station malfunctions

Jumbo 60/35 N-K automatic pressure regulation

Sewage and water supply are an integral part of a comfortable life. To provide themselves with the benefits of civilization even in the country, many purchase special pumps. These devices provide the proper pressure of water used for domestic and household needs. Over time, the factory settings get lost, so there is a need for such a procedure as adjusting the pressure switch of the pumping station (PS).

  1. How to set up
  2. Video

The pressure switch is an automated sensor that controls turning the pump on and off. As a rule, the manufacturer supplies pumps with an already calibrated relay:

  • the switching pressure is set at 1.5 -1.8 atmospheres (bar)
  • shutdown pressure – 2.5-3 atmospheres.

Correction of the operating mode is achieved by changing these settings. In this case, the volume of the hydraulic accumulator and the required water pressure must be taken into account. The pressure switch has two adjustments:

  • Pressure nut P – setting the upper pressure limit, upon reaching which the pump is switched off.
  • Pressure nut ΔP (delta P) – is responsible for the lower pressure level, that is, turning on the equipment (pressure drop).

To understand how the relay is adjusted and configured, you need to know the operating principle of a complete pumping station. So, the pump pumps water into the accumulator, thereby increasing the level of water pressure in the main tank. This indicator is monitored by a pressure gauge. Further, upon reaching the specified level P, the contacts in the relay open and the pump turns off. Residents, using water, gradually reduce the pressure in the tank; when the lower ΔP mark is reached, the pump turns on, and the process is repeated.

Calculation of the lower pressure limit - moment of switching on the NS

Any calibration begins from the very beginning - determining the minimum required pressure in the tap located at the highest point of the water supply system. For example, the required level in the taps on the 2nd floor of your house is 2 bars. However, remember that a pressure of 1 bar creates a column of water whose height is 10 m.

Of course, on the first floor the pressure will be higher. Calculate the height to which the water will rise from the accumulator to the extreme point of water intake. If the difference, suppose, is 8 m, then the pressure will be 0.8 bar. Then simple mathematics: add the required pressure on the second floor and the height of the water column, you get the minimum pressure in the pipes at the level of the accumulator. In our example it is 2.8 bar.

Next, you should determine the air pressure in the accumulator tank. It is good to use a tire pump with a pressure gauge for this. In this case, the container must be empty and the station disconnected from the network. Otherwise, it will be difficult to understand what total air and water pressure the relay is set to: a ratio of 2:1, or 1.5:1.5.

In accordance with the recommendations of the well-known manufacturer of pumping equipment Grundfos, the backpressure in the gas cavity must be at least 90% of the calculated minimum level. That is, if we take the example data, the indicator will be 2.8 x 0.9 = 2.52 bars. To achieve the desired value, it is necessary to bleed off excess air or, conversely, pump it up with an auto pump.

Adjustment of the upper and lower pressure is carried out by careful, gradual rotation of the clamping nuts: clockwise to increase the indicator, counterclockwise to decrease it. At the same time, some manufacturers recommend setting the switching level 0.1 bar higher than desired, that is, in the example this value will be 2.9 bar.

It’s quite simple to check: when the system is turned on, open the tap, drain the water from the tank and use the water pressure gauge to monitor the moment when the relay turns on the pump. The minimum air pressure limit in the accumulator is 0.78 bar.

Calculation of the upper pressure level - the moment of switching off the NS

Now you need to decide on the upper pressure, that is, the moment when the relay will turn off the pump.

Masters, as a rule, set the difference between the on and off points to 1 bar. This is explained by the fact that the water in the mixers will be produced at the same temperature. Of course, it's convenient for users. There is one “but”: the hydraulic accumulator will start and stall too often, which negatively affects the uninterrupted service life of the device.

That is why, according to manufacturers’ calculations, the difference between Pi and ΔP should be at least 1.4 bar at any pressure. For our example, it turns out 2.9 + 1.4 = 4.3 bars.

When setting the Pi and delta-P values, it is imperative to take into account the maximum pressure for which the accumulator is designed and try not to exceed it. The data is usually indicated in the technical data sheet of the product. In addition, too high pressure can adversely affect faucets and rubber inlet hoses, for which the maximum permissible level is also set.

Most problems with pressure regulation and relay operation are associated with a malfunction of the accumulator membrane. A violation of the on-off mode occurs due to the fact that the membrane chamber, in the absence of water, lies at the bottom of the tank. Since it contains butyl rubber, when the mechanism is not working it sticks together and ceases to perform its functions. The problem is eliminated by careful blowing: the air is released from the device to 0.5 bar, the pump is turned on and water is gradually pumped up to 1 bar. The membrane will straighten. Follow the scheme: drain the water, re-pump the air using a car pump. Further adjustment of the relay will be carried out without problems.

Features of adjusting HC relays from different manufacturers

The above adjustment scheme is classic. However, the settings of pumping station relays from different manufacturers are slightly different, taking into account the characteristics of the product.

Thus, Gilex Jumbo pumps are characterized by the use of a mechanical device RDM-5, the design of which includes another additional spring enclosed in a plastic frame. Designed to fix the adjusting nuts within the established limits, that is, a kind of protective mechanism that does not allow changes in the on-off points of the pumping station.

Similar to the previous type, pumps from Caliber and Alco are regulated.

Pumps from “Marina” (Marina) have standard factory settings: P – 1.5 atm, ΔP – 3 atm, maximum pressure – 3.2 atm. Over time, the springs weaken, so they need to be tightened every six months to the required level according to the standard scheme, but not set to the maximum. Otherwise, the mechanism will wear out very quickly.

Pumping stations from Pedrollo have an adjustable pressure of 1.4-2.8 bar. Before setting the relay, you need to measure the air pressure in the accumulator tank. The figure should be 0.2 bar below the minimum pressure level. The rest of the adjustment follows the general principle.

Grundfos takes a more responsible approach to adjusting the relays of its pumping stations, so the plant obliges dealers to check and adjust the products in front of the buyer. An absolute requirement: the difference between P and ΔP must be 1-1.5 bar. It is recommended that each client check the settings once a year.

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Household pumping stations Gilex Jumbo for home and garden

Jumbo pumping stations are designed to ensure uninterrupted water supply to a variety of residential buildings, as well as to supply water for watering plants in a garden or summer cottage.

Devices of this brand are equipped with pressure hydraulic tanks and an automatic control system, which allows you to maintain the required level of pressure in the water supply system.

Pumping equipment is able to turn itself off and on as water is consumed.

NS of this brand are equipped with a surface pump with a built-in injector, pressure gauge, hydraulic accumulator and pressure switch.

Device and main components

The body of devices of this brand is made of high-quality cast iron, and the impeller is made of wear-resistant plastic. This makes it possible to seriously increase the level of strength of the structure as a whole, as well as guarantee efficient and reliable operation of the pumping station throughout its entire service life.

Among the main advantages of the Jumbo station, it is worth noting a fairly long service life, as well as the presence of an automatic control system and a built-in injector.

Gilex automatic pumping stations are highly practical and have excellent self-priming capabilities; they combine all the advantages of centrifugal units.

Marking and designation for various series

Depending on the configuration and technical characteristics, pumping stations may have different markings:

  1. The letter “P” in the marking means that the pump is made of glass-filled polypropylene and is equipped with threaded embedded parts made of brass.
  2. The letter "H" means that the pump is made of high quality stainless steel.

The first number in the marking indicates the maximum water flow, which is measured in liters per minute. And the second number reflects the maximum pressure that the device is able to create.

Pumping station Jumbo series 60/35

NS Jumbo 60 35 is an automatic pump equipped with a pressure hydraulic tank, as well as an automatic control system that maintains the required level of pressure in the water supply system. As water is consumed, the device turns off and turns on automatically.

The series is intended for use in automatic water supply systems for dachas or cottages. This equipment is used to supply water from wells, wells, open reservoirs and other types of reservoirs.

The pump can be operated at a liquid temperature of no more than 50 degrees Celsius and an ambient temperature of at least 1 degree Celsius. The unit can supply water from a depth of no more than 9 meters.

5 most important advantages of this model

  1. Built-in ejector.
  2. Automatic control system.
  3. Reliable protection of electric motors.
  4. The case is made of wear-resistant materials, which provides reliable protection for the device.
  5. Sufficiently long service life.

Pumping water stations of the 60 35 series are equipped with special graphite-ceramic seals, which almost completely prevent the possibility of leakage.

Video review of the model:

Gilex Jumbo 70/50

The Jumbo 70 50 household pumping station is specially designed to ensure uninterrupted water supply to dachas, cottages, farms and other consumers.

The equipment of this model is able to automatically maintain the required level of pressure in water supply systems, independently turning off and turning on as needed.

It is equipped with an automatic control system and a built-in ejector, which makes it possible to create a fairly high pressure at the outlet.

This series combines the advantages of centrifugal pumps and the practicality of self-priming models.

What is the advantage of the 70/50 series?

  1. Smooth start, which prevents the possibility of water hammer during start-up, and also seriously reduces the mechanical stress on the check valve and pump.
  2. Ability to maintain a specified pressure range.
  3. Built-in protection against uncontrolled operation and dry running.
  4. Protection against various voltage surges.
  5. Quite low power consumption.

An excellent video describing the advantages of this model:

Station Gileks Jumbo 50/28

It is equipped with a hydraulic accumulator and is designed to ensure uninterrupted supply of water from wells, wells and open reservoirs. This equipment combines all the advantages of centrifugal pumps and the practicality of self-priming pumps.

Mini pumping stations of this model consist of a self-priming electric pump, a horizontal hydraulic accumulator made of carbon steel, a pressure gauge, a pressure switch and connecting equipment.

The electric motor of the device has reliable protection against overheating in the form of a special fan and thermal protector, which turns off the pump if the temperature on the windings exceeds the permissible level.

Automatic pumping stations for water supply Gilex Jumbo 50/28 are distinguished by a high level of performance and unpretentiousness to the quality of pumped water. This guarantees a fairly long service life both in country houses and in houses for permanent residence.

Is it difficult to connect and install?

All types of electrical installation work, such as installation of sockets, electrical connections and grounding, should only be carried out by qualified personnel in full compliance with safety regulations.

The installation process usually consists of several successive steps. First, a suction pipe with a check valve is connected to a special inlet, and a pressure line is connected to the outlet. After this, the suction line and the pump housing are filled with water, and then the pumping station is connected to the electrical network.

When installing a suction line, it is necessary to create a continuous angle of inclination from the pumping equipment to the source of water intake. It is important to prevent air from entering the installed suction line.

In the article presented to your attention, you will learn the principle of the pump design, and will also be able to understand the nuances and aspects that you need to know in order to repair the Vodomet and we will look in more detail using a real example of a real model 60-52. Naturally, you will also get acquainted with the possible problems that are indicated in those. passport and methods of their elimination.

Pump repair

Pump repair urgently required , especially for the private sector it may mean again buckets and watering cans. A significant complication of the situation is if the water supply at the site is organized within the circumference of the well. Naturally, even someone who is slightly familiar with such matters can repair equipment like “Rucheek”, but restoring the unit’s functionality is a rather labor-intensive task that is not easy to perform without certain knowledge in this area.

In the case of unqualified repairs, there is a possibility that oil will penetrate into the well, which will have to be eliminated with the help of highly qualified professionals. If you have a specialized service center nearby, then the most rational and correct solution would be to contact them there with such questions. Otherwise, you will have to do such work on your own.

DIY repair

Components. Analysis of components.

Units of this type, specifically designed for interaction with wells, have a certain (different) number of stages, based on the model marking. All parts of this type can be freely divided into several standard categories.

The first and third positions are almost identical in size and are made of high-quality and durable plastic, which together resembles a mushroom in appearance. The glasses, accordingly, are made in a cylinder form factor, which are made from black polyamide.

The bottom is essentially a disk, which is made of the same material, and there is a hole in its center. Together with the glass, they form a double bottom. An anti-friction washer inherently prevents friction of parts; as a rule, during disassembly, blue and white color variations are most often found. The first few are thinner.

Disassembly 60-52

Aimed at interacting with wells, the most effective are certain models 60-32 and 150-30, in the case of a water level of no more than five meters, and for deeper ones 60-52 and 150-45 are intended.

To repair the water cannon, first of all you should unscrew the cover, equipped with specialized holes, to then remove the remaining parts. If you need to clamp the device in a vice, be extremely careful, since the inside is hollow. The best solution would be a rubber lining (dense) on all sides.

Next, disassemble the pump part. The parts being removed from the shaft should be carefully laid out, which will allow them to be returned to their place in the future in the same but reverse order. Remove the retaining ring and motor. To do this, you will need to install the unit vertically. Try lightly tapping the top cover with a rubber mallet, which will allow the engine to move the ring out of place.

Trying to remove through the thread will be unsuccessful as it will not be able to fit through it. After you place the pump in a horizontal position, pull the cable and pull the motor away. Remove the roof of the compartment containing the wires, place the engine on its side and, using a powerful screwdriver and a mallet (rubber), knock it out as carefully as possible.


Water cannon Jilex 60 32 unit repair

Indicated faults

The main malfunctions, as well as their causes and methods of elimination, are outlined for the units. But in a huge number of cases, there will simply be a recommendation to contact a specialized service center. Two additional failures that are not included in the passport are very often mentioned by experts: water is not pumped during startup, and the device receives electric shock without making any sounds.

The first malfunction symbolizes that the impellers and stage covers have worn out. And in the second option, we will talk about a capacitor failure. More than likely, it is simply caused by exposure to moisture, which in a certain way gets through the cable inlet directly into the condenser compartment. Naturally, such a part will only be subject to replacement with a working one.

Sufficiently careful and careful handling of the unit will extend its service life, without any problems, but from time to time you will still have to carry out preventive maintenance either yourself or by contacting a specialized service center. The difficulty of self-repair will lie not only in the ability to disassemble a somewhat complex device, but also to find the necessary replacement parts, which is even more problematic, why the best solution would really be to contact such a center.

You can order the necessary parts exclusively either through a service tool or directly from the factory, unless, of course, you have another identical device as a donor, which generally complicates the possibility of self-repair, and therefore you should make sure that you have, or the availability of spare parts before you disassemble the unit.