Processing tomatoes with hot water from phytophthora. Fight against phytophthora of tomatoes in the open field. Use of Trichopolum or Metronidazole

The causative agent of the disease is a fungus that reproduces asexually. In total, more than 50 types of pathogenic crops that provoke late blight on tomatoes have been discovered. The peak of fungal activity on nightshade crops occurs at the end of summer, when conditions favorable for it are formed.

The fungus multiplies quickly, so at the first sign of the disease, you need to immediately take response measures. Otherwise, within 2-3 weeks, the grower will lose up to 1/3 of the crop.

Causes of a fungal disease

The list of those close to the location of plantings of tomato and potatoes opens. In 9 out of 10 cases, late blight begins on potatoes, and then spreads to tomatoes. The second reason is related to the gardener's mistakes. In a site where there is no ventilation or seedlings are too close to each other, problems cannot be avoided. In addition to the reasons already mentioned for the development of late blight, there are a number of others:

Completes the list of reasons that provoke the development of a fungal infection, again, gardener's mistakes. If a lack of copper, iodine, potassium or manganese is fixed in the soil for a long time, then late blight will not keep you waiting.

Manifestations of the disease

The task of the gardener is to conduct a regular visual inspection of the plantings. As soon as dark spots appear on the surface of the leaves, urgent action must be taken, otherwise the fungus will attack the fruit. The second sign of late blight becomes noticeable during rain. From the side it seems that the leaves are covered with an oil film. It has a characteristic luster and a light shade. When inspecting plantings, the gardener pays attention to the outer and inner surface of the leaves.

Initially, spots form on the inner surface. Their color varies from light brown to grey-brown. The size of the spots has no clear boundaries. It all depends on the activity of the fungal pathogen.

In addition to the already listed signs of late blight on tomatoes, botanists distinguish others:

As soon as the listed signs appeared on 1 bush, you should immediately sound the alarm. The fungus reproduces by spores. If you leave the situation without due attention, then within a few days the problem will cover the entire garden.

Elimination of the problem with folk remedies

Iodine solution - for every 10 liters of water, 10 ml of iodine solution is consumed. The recommended concentration level of the drug is 5%. It is impossible to exceed the specified indicator, otherwise there is a great risk of harming the tomatoes. The resulting mixture is sprayed with bushes every 3 days for 2 weeks.

Another 1 recipe is based on the use of calcium solution. The recipe looks like this:

1 tablet;
1 liter of water;
bring the mixture to a homogeneous state;
the specified volume is enough for each 1m2 of the plot;
do the treatment every 2 weeks.

Another effective drug is Furacilin. The tool refers to substances with a wide spectrum of action. The solution is prepared as follows:

10 tablets;
10 liters of water;
mix everything and bring to a homogeneous state.

Use the solution 3 times during 1 season:

the first time before flowering;
the second time after the start of the formation of ovaries;
the third - as soon as the formation of fruits began.

Regardless of the method chosen, it cannot be used more than 4 times. Otherwise, the fungus forms immunity.

Another popular solution is a mixture of manganese and garlic. The recipe looks like this:

chop the stems and garlic;
for every 100 g of gruel, the gardener takes 1 cup of boiling water;
24 hours to insist the mixture in a closed container;
strain the mixture;
dilute 10 liters of water;
add 1 teaspoon of manganese;
each plant takes 0.5-1 l;

Carry out processing 4 times in 1 season.

In the case when the fungus has hit a large area, kefir or whey will come to the rescue. Both products are interchangeable. To prepare the solution, take 10 liters of water and 5 liters of kefir or whey. Processing is carried out in July and August.

Prevention

The level of air humidity is a parameter that is constantly monitored by the gardener. The optimal indicator is up to 75%. After each rain, a visual inspection of the landings should be carried out. To a greater extent, attention is paid to the lower part of the plantings - the appearance of dark spots begins there. The next nuance is that it is forbidden to plant tomatoes next to any other representative of the nightshade family. Potatoes and eggplants must grow from tomatoes at a distance of at least 10 m, otherwise fungus damage cannot be avoided.

For preventive purposes, beans, beans or corn are planted next to the garden with tomatoes. These cultures have a detrimental effect on the fungus.

Effective prevention of late blight depends on compliance with the rules of planting. There should be at least 1 m between rows of tomatoes. Too dense plantings do not allow sunlight to penetrate to each bush. Further preventive recommendations are as follows:

Hardening - the disease is easier to prevent than to cure. Natural mixtures will help to increase the immunity of a tomato. A list of popular homemade recipes includes a saline solution:

10 liters of water;
1 glass of table salt;
everything is mixed in a bucket;

Spraying is carried out 1 time every 2 weeks.

Kefir solution is another way to reduce the likelihood of fungal spores on tomatoes:

10 liters of water;
1 liter of kefir - it must ferment for at least 48 hours;
mix everything in a bucket;

Processing of 2-week-old seedlings is carried out 1 time every 7 days.

When choosing seed, you need to make sure that the variety is resistant to late blight. Information of this kind is provided on the packaging.

Late blight is a disease of plants of nightshade crops, which has a fungal nature. The pathogen reproduces by spores that enter the soil and on the surface of the leaves. The catalyst for the development process becomes an increased level of humidity, a lack of sunlight, or a gardener's mistakes. In the latter case, we are talking about non-compliance with irrigation norms, improper feeding or too dense plantings. Regular inspection of the crop will help prevent the rapid death of the crop. If cases of late blight are recorded in a neighboring area or dark spots appear on the stem or leaves on 1 of the bushes, then you need to immediately take response measures.

If phytophthora still appeared on the leaves of the tomato, then at the very beginning of the disease, you can spray the tomatoes with a solution of iodine (a bottle of 10 ml of 5% iodine per 10 liters of water). Repeat after 3 days. By the way, the solution can stand for an unlimited time, but only when closed and in a dark place; it can be used to spray other plants against all fungal diseases.

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To kill the spores of the fungus, common in the air, it does not hurt to fumigate the room with burning coals wrapped in a cloth made of natural skin (lamb or cow). They are thrown into a metal bucket until completely burned out and all windows and doors are kept tightly closed.

Processing of tomatoes with iodine from late blight is carried out with the addition of milk. In a 10-liter container for 9 liters of water, pour 1 liter of low-fat milk with 15 drops of iodine. The optimal interval for spraying will be 10-15 days.

Bordeaux mixture. A couple of tablespoons of copper sulfate (vitriol) is diluted in a 10-liter bucket of tomato processing liquid shortly before flowering.

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Processing tomatoes from late blight with organic means with a photo

It is also important not to forget about preventive treatment. For this, experienced gardeners recommend using active biological agents, but they can be replaced (or alternated) with folk ones.

Planting seedlings should be carried out in strict accordance with the recommended planting patterns.
Sharp temperature fluctuations, which are relevant for the end of the summer season, when during hot daytime weather there are often quite cool nights. At this time, a lot of dew usually falls, which becomes an additional favorable source of moisture for the development of black rot.
Phytophthora on tomatoes - a damaged plant

Every experienced vegetable grower knows what phytophthora is. This disease is easily recognized by the following signs:

Already in February, when the ground is still covered with snow, many gardeners begin to take care of the future harvest: they buy seeds, prepare planting boxes and greenhouses. Growing tomatoes from small seeds, surrounding them with care, everyone hopes to get beautiful, juicy and ripe fruits as a result, but the dreams of some owners are not destined to come true. And all the fault of the disease, which in a short time destroy the plant. The question of how to deal with late blight on tomatoes is of interest to many, because the disease can nullify all efforts and completely destroy the crop.

Phytophthora on tomatoes treatment and the main causes of infection

Try to spray the tomatoes with an infusion of garlic (grind 100 g of garlic cloves, pour 2 liters of water, cover, leave for half an hour and pour over the fruits with this gruel) so that late blight does not pass to the fruits. Or use a yeast solution to protect leaves and fruits (100 g of yeast diluted in 10 liters of water).

Black spots appeared on the lower, and then the rest of the leaves, which then begin to increase, and a yellow spot forms around them?

Causes of fungal infection

Late blight of tomatoes treatment with iodine and serum

When choosing how to spray tomatoes for diseases, you should pay attention to a cheap and effective remedy: tincture of hay or rotten straw. For preparation, it is necessary to insist it in 10 liters of water for 4 days with a handful of urea. Used once every 1.5-2 weeks.

Trichopol. Processing a tomato from phytophthora with this antibiotic gives excellent results. 1 tablet dissolves in 1 liter of water for spraying bushes.
Processing tomatoes from phytophthora: types of biological agents
Morning is considered the ideal time for watering a tomato, but if the period is very dry, it can be done in the evening, after sunset. In this case, a significant part of the water will have time to soak into the soil. It is important to irrigate so that drops do not fall on the plant and fruits.
Weakened by ripening and growth, undernourished tomatoes lose their immunity to infection. The lack of useful elements (potassium, iodine, manganese) significantly increases the chances of late blight.

Prevention from infection

The late blight virus is surprisingly viable. Its invisible spores can be found anywhere: in the soil, on plant debris, seed, all greenhouse surfaces, garden tools. Therefore, the main task of vegetable growers is to reduce the number of harmful spores, as well as to eliminate any prerequisites for their further reproduction and development.

The reverse side of the sheets is stained;

Basically, in July, problems begin with both greenhouse seedlings and those that grow in open ground. It is during this period that phytophthora appears on tomatoes. How to deal with this disease and is it possible to save plants? Of course, it is best to carry out prophylaxis back in June; for this, drugs such as Zircon and Fitosporin are suitable. Outdoor tomatoes are easier to save because they can be treated with one of the solutions containing copper. After that, the fruits can not be eaten for 3 weeks. In the greenhouse, it is impossible to spray the tops with copper solutions, since the tomatoes are used immediately.
How to save the fruits if the entire bush is affected by phytophthora?
This is a formidable disease of tomatoes - phytophthora - a fungus that lives in the soil, but only if there is not enough copper in it. Hence the prevention of the disease: before planting, pour the soil with copper oxychloride (hom, osich, polych) or copper sulphate. One tablespoon of the drug per liter of water for watering the soil or one teaspoon of the drug per 10 liters of water - for spraying on the leaves (after spraying, the fruits should not be eaten for three weeks).
The fight against late blight on tomatoes is known in all countries of the world. In some of them, it is customary to dust greenhouse beds with a mixture of tobacco dust (a couple of glasses) mixed with ash (per bucket). Also, in addition to the mentioned funds, they often use the solutions "Shine", "Fitosporin-M" or "Baikal EM-1".
Salt, diluted in 10 liters of liquid, is suitable for processing large, but still unripe fruits, it is necessary to observe the frequency up to 1 time per month.
Ash is also used together with drugs, it is an invaluable source of a whole list of important substances (sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium). Plants are dusted with it seven days after planting and the procedure is repeated at the time the ovaries appear.
Before treating tomatoes for diseases, it is necessary to deal with the cause of the infection, and then eliminate this factor, and only then proceed to the choice of a prophylactic agent.
In greenhouse conditions, it is convenient to use drip irrigation. For this, special hoses are used (for example, Cellfast Drip). It can be connected to a container with warm water and gradually moisten the soil throughout the day.

Prevention of late blight infection

Processing tomatoes from phytophthora. Biologically active drugs

Phytophthora on tomatoes - causes of fungal infection

shoots darken;

How to save tomatoes from phytophthora without resorting to drugs that are hazardous to health? Alternatively, you can use 5% iodine, at the rate of 1 ml per 1 liter of water. First you need to completely cut off the affected leaves, these include yellow and black spots, then you need to spray the stem and fruits abundantly. Re-treatment is carried out after 3 days. So that the solution does not roll off the leaves, you can add soap to it.

In case of severe phytophthora damage, the diseased leaves should be removed and burned, and the fruits should be sprayed with a 1% solution of calcium chloride (a 10% solution of calcium chloride is sold in a pharmacy in 200 ml vials). The bottle should be dissolved in 2 liters of water. The stalk should be sprayed especially carefully, as late blight penetrates into the fruit through it.

Against late blight, you can prophylactically spray tomatoes with an infusion of the tinder fungus. To do this, grind 100 g of the mushroom, pour boiling water over it, cover with a lid and cool. After strain and immediately spray the tomatoes on the leaves. Repeat spraying after 10 days. In the North-West, it is recommended to do such preventive spraying in late June - early July. In any other region - at the moment of pouring the first flower brush.
Late blight of tomatoes, the treatment of which is required annually, can be considered successful if you managed to get a quality crop this season. Even if some fruits were covered with black spots and had to be burned, it's okay. Next year, you can try other means that may be more effective.
Milk whey, which is diluted in equal proportions with water and 1-2 drops of iodine are added. Experienced vegetable growers use this tool to spray tomatoes daily, starting in July and ending with a full harvest.

The fight against late blight on tomatoes with folk remedies

Some summer residents recommend alternating different drugs, because the disease adapts perfectly with the annual adoption of the same measures. The first preventive spraying is best done immediately after planting the material. Ordinary forest mushrooms become a convenient guide for determining the time of phytophthora activity: as soon as they appear, you need to carefully monitor the plants.

It is important to remember to regularly ventilate the greenhouse and avoid a large accumulation of condensate if the greenhouse is film.

In order for the disease not to start developing, it is necessary to prevent late blight on tomatoes and in the greenhouse. It consists in the following:
The appearance of phytophthora in areas can cause:
Fruits turn black in places.
If you are interested in the question of how to deal with late blight on tomatoes, then you should try to mulch the soil under the plants. This method greatly reduces the chances of the appearance of this disease, because it is caused by spores of a microfungus that lives in the soil. If you are interested in how to deal with late blight on tomatoes in a safe way, then you should buy a 10% solution of calcium chloride at the pharmacy, dilute it with water in a ratio of 1: 4. With the resulting preparation, it is necessary to spray the sepals of flowers and the stalk, because late blight gets on the fruits from them.
After harvesting tomatoes heavily affected by phytophthora, it is necessary to lower the fruits for 10 minutes in a hot solution (40 ° C) of pink potassium permanganate. You can not make the solution too dark - a burn forms on the skin of the fruit. Take out the fruits, wash with water and wipe dry. After that, they can be folded for storage by wrapping each fruit in paper. Then the phytophthora will not pass from one fruit to another, if suddenly some fruit still starts to deteriorate.

Processing tomatoes from late blight in greenhouses

A good prevention against phytophthora is the systematic (once every two weeks) watering the plants on the leaves with a solution of Fitosporin.

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Processing tomatoes from late blight in greenhouses

Prevention of late blight on tomatoes by folk methods perfectly prevents the appearance of black rot. Among the most famous is the treatment of tomatoes with serum and iodine, but there are other equally effective means.

Tomato protection from phytophthora is carried out with the following biologically active preparations:

Outcome

With high humidity, watering can not be done at all. Instead, it is useful to loosen the ground between the rows.

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How to save tomatoes from late blight?

With an excess of lime in the soil, it is necessary to begin restoring the natural balance by adding peat and falling asleep in the sand holes.

Soils with excessive liming promote the growth of fungi. Most summer residents are afraid of the oxidation of the earth, so they do their best to saturate it with lime, which becomes the most common cause of late blight.

Late blight is a widespread and very dangerous fungal disease of nightshade crops. Cold and humid climate contribute to its appearance.

Knowing how to deal with late blight on tomatoes, you can save at least part of the crop. At the first signs, you need to immediately cut off the unset flowers, because, on the one hand, they are a source of infection, and on the other hand, they draw juices from the bush, preventing the ripening of the formed fruits. Next, remove all spoiled, as well as lower leaves. The plant should gradually get rid of them, and by mid-July, only the top should be left, covering the last pouring brush.

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Sometimes gardeners insert a thin copper wire into the stem in order to avoid phytophthora. In my opinion, it is better to gradually saturate the plant with copper, spraying it 2-3 times during growth, starting from seedlings, with a weak solution of copper oxychloride (1 g per 1 liter). But from the moment of flowering, this practice should be stopped.

Home garden|Garden, garden, cottage HOW TO SAVE TOMATOES FROM PHYTOPHTORA

Before planting tomato seedlings in greenhouses, you must first carry out their thorough sanitation, removing accumulated cobwebs and dirt from the surfaces of roofs and walls (for the best effect, you need to wash the walls of greenhouses and greenhouses with a 1% solution of manganese, you can add a little chlorine), and also completely getting rid of the remains of last year's plants.

Garlic infusion with manganese. 100 g of chopped onions, arrows or leaves are infused for a day in a glass of water. This composition is filtered and diluted with 10 liters of water with the addition of 1 g of potassium permanganate. Processing is carried out every 2 weeks.

Fitosporin. It is bred according to the instructions. At first, tomatoes are abundantly sprayed with the appearance of the very first ovary, and all further sprayings are carried out every ten days of the month. This solution can still be poured directly into the holes in greenhouses before planting or added to water for irrigation.

The fight against late blight on tomatoes will be more effective if the plants are systematically fed with phosphorus, potassium and other solutions of useful trace elements.

You should follow the rules of crop rotation and plant tomatoes after crops such as beets, cucumbers, onions, cauliflower, carrots or turnips.

Too dense plantings make it difficult to ventilate greenhouses and normal access of air to plants in open areas. And for the life of fungal spores, a humid greenhouse environment is excellent.

Preventive control of phytophthora on tomatoes in the greenhouse and on the open ground is necessary all the time, since the infection spreads very quickly and can damage the entire crop.

At the end of the same month, you should pinch the tomatoes to stop their growth. In order for the fruits to ripen sooner, it is necessary to create a stressful situation for the plant. To do this, you can cut off part of the roots, thereby reducing the supply of nutrients, reduce watering, and do not feed. Under such conditions, tomatoes will accelerate the ripening of fruits.

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Having found signs of phytophthora on his site, each gardener begins to sound the alarm. In the article we will talk about everything related to the disease and how to fight late blight on tomatoes in the greenhouse and in the open field.

What is phytophthora: causes and signs of the disease

If you have not encountered late blight and do not know what it is, then most likely you have not tried to grow tomatoes in your garden. Phytophthora is the most dangerous disease of this plant, which is caused by the late blight fungus, translated from English as "plant eater". With its rapid development, it can destroy the tomato crop in just a few days.

Reasons for the appearance of phytophthora

First, this infection affects potatoes and after that it passes to tomatoes. Therefore, one of the reasons for their infection is their proximity to potatoes. Infection also occurs due to high humidity, low or sudden changes in temperature, lack of sunlight, dense planting of tomato bushes and due to an excess of nitrogen.

You can notice the appearance of phytophthora on plants in August and July. At this time, the day is still hot, the night is already cold, and in the morning there is a lot of dew, the evaporation of which occurs slowly, especially from densely planted bushes. This moment is the best for the development of phytophthora.

Signs of late blight on tomatoes

At the first sign of phytophthora on tomatoes, black spots first form on the leaves, then the fruits suffer, and after them the stem is also affected. Black spots on the leaves in the rain are covered with a light oil coating - this is the fungus. Tomato inflorescences turn yellow very quickly, then turn black and fall off. The fruits are covered with black-brown marks, which soften over time. The stem is covered with uneven black spots. The disease quickly depresses the bush, which subsequently leads to the death of the plant.

Phytophthora: how to properly process tomatoes in open ground

Tomatoes that are grown outdoors are most susceptible to this disease. And therefore, in order not to encounter this problem, it is necessary to carry out mandatory prevention.

Disease prevention

Let's figure out how to protect tomatoes from late blight. To avoid running into her in your garden, you must adhere to the following rules:

The infection affects young bushes due to uncultivated soil, so be sure to remove weeds from the garden and do not plant tomatoes after potatoes and other crops that are also susceptible to phytophthora.
Do not place the bushes very close to each other, as in a wet year this will provoke the development of phytophthora.
Tomatoes should be watered only under the root, as water on the leaves can cause disease.
A place for growing tomatoes should be chosen well-lit.
Do not overdo it with the amount of nitrogen fertilization.

Tomato treatment

If it was not possible to prevent the disease, you need to know how to deal with late blight on tomatoes. It is completely impossible to get rid of it, since the disease spreads by transmission from bush to bush and appears immediately on several plants.
The first thing to do in this situation is to isolate the affected bushes from healthy ones. It would be correct to uproot them altogether and burn them immediately to prevent spread. If the phytophthora has struck a large number of bushes, then chemical active substances will be needed.

With late blight of tomatoes, the treatment is carried out with preparations in the form of a powder, which are diluted with water and sprayed on the plants. Boric acid, Gamair, Fitosporin are considered the most effective of them.

How to protect tomatoes from late blight in a greenhouse

Stagnant air and moisture evaporation are extreme conditions for growing tomatoes in a greenhouse. In this room, although plants are less likely to be affected by diseases (since there is no direct source of infection), but if this happens, then their spread is more intense. To prevent damage to tomatoes by late blight, greenhouses should be regularly ventilated and watered bushes rarely, but a lot.

Did you know? To prevent tomatoes from getting sick, preventive measures must be carried out even before sowing, treating the seeds with a warm solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes.

Spraying for prevention

The question of how to spray tomatoes from phytophthora is very important, since an abundance of chemicals can make the fruits poisonous and unsuitable for consumption. In addition, during the treatments, the bushes themselves can be ruined, causing rot on them. In order not to harm the plant, you need to know how to spray tomatoes from diseases.

As a preventive measure, it is necessary to water the tomatoes with a solution of copper sulphate a week after planting. Then, after another five days, it is necessary to treat the bushes with a decoction of horsetail, after which the leaves are sprayed with potassium iodide diluted with water. And after another five days, the plants are treated with Epin.

For preventive treatment, a solution of 2 liters of acid whey, a glass of ash and one spoon of honey per bucket of water is also suitable. This solution is sprayed with bushes every week. The most favorable time for all procedures is the first half of the day.

In order for there to be no reason for the development of phytophthora in greenhouses, it is necessary to remove dust and cobwebs, and keep the interior clean.

Phytophthora treatment on tomatoes

If late blight appeared on tomatoes, then for many gardeners the urgent question is how to deal with this scourge. Phytophthora can be treated in two ways:

using chemical active substances;
using folk remedies.

Important! In the treatment of phytophthora on tomatoes, they are used together with plant nutrition that strengthens their immune system.

With late blight on tomatoes, treatment is carried out with such chemicals as Alirin-B, Gamair, Baikal EM-1. Another effective remedy is Bordeaux liquid.

How to deal with phytophthora folk methods

We list the most common folk remedies for late blight on tomatoes:

Tincture of garlic with potassium permanganate. You will need 100 g of minced garlic, which is poured into a glass of water and left for 24 hours. After a day, filter and dilute with 10 liters of water and 1 g of potassium permanganate. You need to spray the bushes once every two weeks.
Milk serum. In a 1:1 ratio, the serum is diluted with water and tomatoes have been treated daily since July.
Ash. Seven days after planting and when fruit is set, the ashes are sprayed between the rows before watering.
Tincture of rotten straw or hay. It is necessary to pour 1 kg of hay into 10 liters of water, add a handful of urea there and leave for 3-4 days. After a while, strain and process the bushes in 1.5-2 weeks.
Iodine with milk. They take 10 liters of water, 1 liter of low-fat milk, 15 drops of iodine, mix everything and treat the bushes with the resulting solution every two weeks.
Salt. A bucket of water is taken for one glass of salt and large green fruits are processed once a month.
Copper sulphate solution. Add 2 tbsp to a ten-liter bucket of water. l. copper sulphate and water the plant with the resulting solution.
Yeast. For 10 liters of water you need 100 g of yeast. The plant is treated when phytophthora appears.
Winding the roots of seedlings with copper wire before planting or piercing the stems of tomatoes. It is necessary to ignite the copper wire and cut it into pieces of 4 cm each, and then pierce the stem at a distance of 10 cm from the surface of the earth, insert the wire and bend its ends down.

The fight against late blight on tomatoes with folk remedies is as effective as the fight with chemical means.

Did you know? Copper sulfate can help get rid of phytophthora, but it is very dangerous for leaves. Fallen drops of the solution can cause a burn to the plant, after which it may die.

Phytophthora resistant tomato varieties

Unfortunately, there are no varieties of tomatoes that will be completely resistant to late blight. Despite their great variety, there are less and more resistant tomatoes to this disease.

For cultivation in greenhouse conditions, varieties of a determinant species are more suitable. They are short, early ripening and bring a good harvest.

Determinant varieties of tomatoes:

Indeterminate varieties are characterized by tall stature and large fruits. They can be grown both in greenhouses and outdoors. An indispensable condition for their normal development is pinching.

Important! When growing indeterminate varieties in your garden, you should tie them to high racks, as the main stem may break due to the large weight of the tomatoes.

More resistant varieties of the indeterminate species are:

Prevention of late blight

Proper care will help protect tomatoes from phytophthora. Care is carried out depending on the type of development, which, in turn, is divided into generative and vegetative.

With a vegetative method of cultivation, plants develop quickly, but the fruits are formed slowly. And because of the late fruit formation, especially in rainy summers, phytophthora will not keep you waiting. And in order to prevent this, it is necessary to carry out stepsoning. This will provide improved air circulation and accelerate fruit growth.

With the generative method, active fruiting occurs. A large number of tomatoes on the bush leads to a stressful state of the plant, which reduces its resistance.
To prevent the appearance of late blight, it is necessary to regulate the number of tomatoes on the bush. In unfavorable times, it is better to reduce the number of fruits and remove peripheral buds. So you will ensure rapid maturation and increase the resistance of the plant to diseases. In order to prevent late blight from appearing in rainy weather, even an unripe crop can be harvested, this will help the plant fight the disease.

How to save and eat affected tomatoes

Tomatoes that have already overtaken late blight can be preserved by heat treatment. To do this, you need to pour water at a temperature of 60 ° C into a basin and lower the affected fruits into it. Be careful: the tomatoes should warm up, not boil. When the water cools, you need to add a new one until the tomatoes are completely warmed up. After the water procedure, the tomatoes are dried and placed in a dark place or on a windowsill for ripening. During heating, the spores of phytophthora die, and then the tomatoes can be eaten. They can also be preserved. If the fruits are damaged until they are completely blackened, thermal exposure will not help, and they will have to be disposed of.

One hundred percent disposal of phytophthora cannot be guaranteed by any of the methods. However, it is in your power to prevent the onset of the disease and to fight late blight of tomatoes. To do this, you need to follow all the above recommendations, take preventive measures, and then you will get a large crop of healthy tomatoes.

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Late blight of tomatoes, late blight on tomatoes

Late blight and late blight are words familiar to almost every gardener. How often the joy of watching the ripening fruits is replaced by despair when we notice the first dark spots on the plants, recognizing the signs of misfortune, by virtue of which to destroy most of the carefully grown crop.

Late blight can affect both open and closed ground tomatoes, caused by its fungus Phytiphthora infestans. The spores of this fungus begin their active development when the air temperature reaches 10 ˚C and the humidity is 75% or more. Phytophthora loves moisture: rains, fogs, the combination of these phenomena with low temperatures, enhances the activity of phytophthora. Water serves as a medium for fungal spores, where they can germinate and give rise to a new mycelium. That is why rainy weather or watering tomatoes on the leaves contributes to the spread of this disease.

Methods of combating late blight, as with any other disease, can be divided into two groups - preventive measures and a list of measures for an already existing disease.

Prevention of late blight of tomatoes

Choosing varieties that are resistant to this disease can certainly serve as protection against late blight. When choosing seeds or hybrids, you should more carefully familiarize yourself with the description of the selected tomato variety, where such a quality as resistance to the action of fungi that cause late blight will definitely be noted. But, for the sake of objectivity, one should listen to the opinion of some experienced gardeners who claim that the varieties described above do not exist, and any plant, under certain conditions, can be affected by this disease. On top of the above, it can be advised to use high-yielding tomato varieties of early ripening, this technique will help get away from the period (end of summer) when weather conditions contribute to the development of fungal spores.

It is impossible to organize planting of tomatoes near potato fields. This disease is very often transmitted to tomatoes from potatoes, as fungal spores can be easily carried by wind from the source of infection.

You should remember and apply the rules of competent crop rotation. You can not plant tomatoes after other nightshade crops - potatoes, eggplant, pepper.

All infected crop residues should not be composted or piled up, but should either be burned or buried, or left spread out in beds to be frozen in the winter.

The next preventive measure is the use of organic fertilizers containing potassium (mullein, wood ash, herbal infusion). Adherents of mineral fertilizers can use ready-made potash fertilizers bought in specialized stores. The use of high doses of nitrogen fertilizers, on the contrary, provokes the occurrence of infection. With an excess of readily available nitrogen, tomatoes grow strongly to the detriment of fruiting, their leaves become juicy, “fleshy” with a thin skin that serves as poor protection against the penetration of the fungus.

Further. You can purchase various fungicides, for example, Bordeaux liquid or blue vitriol, which can be used both as a preventive measure and when the first signs of phytophthora appear. There are also biological fungicides - phytosporin-M, Alirin-B, trichodermin, they contain live fungi and bacteria that can suppress the growth of pathogenic microflora.

Early harvesting of fruits, followed by laying for further ripening, can also partly serve as a preventive measure.

Some gardeners use periodic spraying (once every two weeks) with an infusion of crushed garlic (30–50 g per 10 l of water) with the addition of potassium permanganate (1.5 g per 10 l of water) or a milk-iodine solution (in 1 liter of skim milk you need add 15 drops of iodine, dissolve the resulting solution in 10 liters of water), or whey diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1.

Do not neglect the evening airing of greenhouses and greenhouses to remove excess moisture in the air and on plants.

Sufficient air circulation between plantings is also facilitated by the correct planting pattern, the removal of lower leaves to prevent them from contact with wet ground, and soil mulching.

It would not be superfluous to recall a fairly well-known method: piercing a tomato stem, in its lower part, with copper wire, about 4 cm long and equal to the thickness of a sewing needle. Copper ions, which prevent the development of phytophthora, in contact with the cell sap of the tomato, are carried throughout the plant, thereby helping the tomatoes curb the disease. Such "acupuncture" is carried out approximately two weeks before planting plants in open ground.

If the tomatoes are sick with late blight

Sick plants can be cured by the sun and warm, dry weather. Otherwise, when a disease occurs, it will be difficult to save the crop. Therefore, a competent gardener, anticipating a sad outcome, will try to follow the weather forecast in order to reduce the risk of late blight on tomatoes by preventive actions in advance. If we turn to the practical experience of "tomato scientists", we can conclude that the most effective way to protect against phytophthora is the preventive use of fungicides (organic or chemical).

In addition, when the first signs of the disease are found, all damaged parts of the plants should be removed, then the bushes should be sprayed with a solution of sodium chloride (one glass of salt per 10 liters of water). The dried solution forms a film that will serve as a kind of protection for the plant. This technique will help partly save the crop.

And finally some food for thought:

One summer it was damp and cool. Tomatoes, especially those planted in the ground in early June, did not bloom for a long time. And by August 20, the entire crop had to be harvested unripe. Only a "trifle" remained on the bushes, no larger than a nut. Almost all plants were affected by phytophthora. The harvest was placed in wooden boxes and placed on a glazed but unheated loggia. And two weeks later they threw out a bucket of diseased fruits. At this time, a neighbor came with advice to use a tinder fungus to protect tomatoes from late blight, a disease that is also caused by a fungus, but specific. Two mushrooms were brought from the forest - tinder fungus. They dried them and tried to pass through a meat grinder. Did not work out. Maybe it takes longer to dry. Then finely chopped with a knife, poured into an enameled bucket and poured two liters of boiling water. As it cooled, the liquid became dark brown in color. The solution was not filtered and green tomatoes began to “bath” in this bucket. They spread paper on the floor and laid out the fruits to dry (before bathing, they sorted out the tomatoes and again threw out more than a bucket of sick people). The dried tomatoes were placed in boxes, sprinkled with chopped dry mushrooms, which they managed to scroll through a meat grinder, and stored on the loggia. By the end of November, all tomatoes, even the smallest ones, turned red. In two months, they threw out only about a kilogram. Two buckets of green tomatoes collected from diseased bushes in mid-September also ripened safely. It grew small fruits left in August. Although the plants were completely affected by late blight, the fruits treated with a solution of the tinder fungus did not get sick and ripened. Thanks for the advice. The tinder fungus is an effective remedy.

Most of the summer residents, growing tomatoes, are familiar with such a problem as late blight. It is tomatoes that are more susceptible to disease than other vegetables, which manifests itself in the blackening of fruits and leaves, which affects the amount of the crop.

Phytophthora always lives in the soil and appears in the second half of summer, when it is already quite cold and damp at night, which means there is a good environment for its development. Now gardeners use both chemicals and various folk methods to deal with scourge. We will consider all methods in this article.

What is phytophthora?

If you are not familiar with such a disease, then you simply did not grow tomatoes. You need to personally know the enemy in person, or rather, the signs of the onset of late blight disease in order to quickly begin the fight against it.

Late blight (or late blight) is a disease caused by a fungus. There are about 50 species of these fungi. The word "late blight" is translated as "destroying the plant."

Fungi reproduce asexually using spores.

Mycelium of fungi lives in the remains of diseased crops, in the soil, in garden tools and, having overwintered, begins its cycle anew under favorable conditions for it (high humidity is the most important of them).

Depending on the type of fungus itself, there are several types of late blight:

Phytophthora cactorum Schroet. Appears on trees of the beech family (oak, beech), pine (coniferous), wild rose;
Phytophthora cinnamomi Bonds. Trees of the beech and walnut families are affected by this fungus;
Phytophthora infestans. The well-known phytophthora of potatoes and other vegetables of the nightshade family;
Phytophthora fragariae. Raspberries, buckwheat and strawberries are affected. Fixed in North America, Europe. In Russia, cases of infection are rare.

Phytophthora on tomatoes appears most often at the end of summer. In another way, it is brown rot, which first affects the leaves, and then the fruits of tomatoes.

The leaves are covered with brown spots from below.

In the rain, tomato leaves affected by phytophthora seem to be covered with a light-colored oil film. Tomato inflorescences turn yellow, darken and fall off.

The spots on the fruits of tomatoes of different sizes are gray-brown in color. The disease spreads throughout the tomato plantation quickly, in just a couple of days. The bush is quickly oppressed and gradually dies off. Therefore, the beginning of the epidemic is easy to miss.

The first signs of late blight on tomatoes

Phytophthora is a fungal disease that most often affects tomatoes and potatoes, eggplant and pepper are a little less affected.

Main features:

The stem of the plant is covered with irregularly shaped brown spots;
Inflorescences are yellow or dark, quickly fall off;
Leaves have dark spots. Then the leaves dry up and fall off;
The fruits are covered with gray-brown or black spots.

Photo disease on tomatoes

Below you can see what the disease looks like on plants in order to recognize it in time.

How does defeat begin?

High humidity is a trigger for the fungus that causes Phytophthora. When moisture appears, spores first infect the leaves, starting from its lower part.

They are covered with a white coating, which gradually passes to the upper part in the form of brown spots.

Following the leaves, the inflorescences are affected (they dry up and fall off), and then the fruits themselves. Gradually increasing spots of gray-brown color, almost black in places, cover the entire fruit.

The peel becomes thin, and the flesh begins to rot and smell unpleasant. In just a few days, the entire crop is affected by late blight, and without proper attention from the gardener, it will be lost.

Causes of the disease

Before you start an effective fight against phytophthora, you need to know what causes the onset of the disease. Consider the main ones that cause late blight on tomatoes:

Close proximity to potatoes (more often the disease begins with it);
Dense plantings and lack of ventilation between the bushes;
A large difference between night and day temperatures and abundant dew in the morning (more often this occurs in August), as well as the absence of heat;
Frequent and heavy rains in the second half of summer;
Excessive watering in July-August during fruit ripening, as well as irrigation on the leaves;
Excess nitrogen;
Increased lime content in the soil;
Lack of potassium, copper, iodine, manganese in the soil.

Knowing the main reasons, you can avoid care errors in advance and save your crop.

What to do if the disease appeared in the greenhouse?

In a greenhouse, phytophthora on tomatoes, with proper care, may not appear. The main thing is to observe the wet and thermal conditions, as well as to do preventive treatment.

You should not make close plantings, do not plant other tomatoes and potatoes next to the greenhouse in order to reduce the risk of transferring the disease from them to the greenhouse.

You need to water rarely, but in large volumes. Prevention in the greenhouse begins precisely with the disinfection of the premises and equipment. And if late blight got into a greenhouse with tomatoes, then it develops even faster than in open ground: the warm and humid climate inside it contributes to this.

Measures applicable in open ground

Tomatoes planted in open ground are most susceptible to the fungus that causes late blight.

If agricultural technology has not been observed, then with an increase in humidity, the appearance of frequent rains and a large amount of dew, late blight will definitely appear.

Here, the disease is easier to prevent than to try to fight it when it has already manifested itself. When obvious signs are visible, it is already difficult to deal with it and a large crop loss is guaranteed.

Methods and methods of struggle

As soon as the phytophthora appeared on the bushes with tomatoes, the gardeners face the question of how to get rid of the scourge. In total, there are 2 ways to treat late blight:

Chemical (using preparations containing chemically active substances in the composition);
Folk (more often used food as the main active ingredient).

Important! When processing tomatoes, it is worth processing potatoes, especially if they are planted nearby. Often, late blight passes from potatoes to tomatoes.

Fighting with chemicals

Let us analyze the main, most popular preparations among summer residents and gardeners, which are used to treat tomatoes.

Spraying with Hom

Hom is a fungicide characterized by contact action. The active substance is copper oxychloride, which acts on the surface and does not penetrate into the leaf and fruit.

It is suitable for prevention, it protects the plant well, but it absolutely does not cure an already ailing bush.

It is not able to accumulate, which means that fungi do not get used to the drug and each application will be effective.

Can be processed up to 5 times per season. Lasts up to 2 weeks, but is easily washed off by rain. Last treatment at least 20 days before harvest. Prepare a solution according to the instructions, dissolving 40 gr. drug per 10 liters of water. You cannot store it. Use in the evening or in the morning in clear weather. Hazard class - the third, requires protective clothing and safety precautions.

Treatment with Furacilin

Furacilin is an antibacterial drug for humans. But many summer residents use it to treat tomatoes from phytophthora.

The solution can be prepared for the whole summer at once, because. due to its bactericidal properties, it does not deteriorate. You need to crush 10 tablets and dilute in 10 liters of water.

You need to spray 3 times per season: before flowering, when the first fruit ovaries appear, when the first tomatoes ripen. The drug is not dangerous for humans.

How to treat Fitosporin?

Fitosporin – It is a biological pesticide that contains bacteria.

The “medicine” penetrates the plant tissues and kills all pathogenic bacteria with the help of beneficial microorganisms.

This drug is biologically safe, the fruits of tomatoes can be eaten immediately, after washing thoroughly.

It goes well with other chemicals. Suitable for prevention as well as treatment. Features of the preparation of the solution (2 tsp per 10 liters of water):

Use warm water no higher than 35℃;
Do not use metal containers;
Leave the solution in the sun for several hours to activate beneficial bacteria.

The whole plant needs to be treated. Frequency - every 10 days during the season (if it started to rain, then immediately after the rain). A similar bacteriological composition and method of application for drugs Baktofit, Baikal-EM, Fitoftorin, Planriz.

Use of Trichopolum or Metronidazole

Trichopolum – This is a drug (antimicrobial and antifungal action) for people with the active substance metronidazole (to reduce spending, you can buy a drug with the same name).

Used by gardeners not so long ago.

The solution is made as follows: 2 tablets per liter of water. Processing - every 10 days or after rain (if tomatoes grow in open ground), because it does not linger on the leaves.

How to defeat the disease Ordan?

Ordan – It is a fungicide with 2 active ingredients: copper oxychloride and cymoxanil.

Penetrates inside the plant, remains a little on the surface.

The therapeutic effect is 2-4 days, and the prophylactic effect is up to 14 days.

Hence comes the frequency of use. Prepare a solution for tomatoes as follows: 25 gr. for half a bucket of water (bucket - 10 liters.). Do not eat fruits for 5 days.

Attention! The drug Ordan has a third class of danger to humans: it requires protective equipment and measures.

Measures of struggle with folk remedies

Adherents of natural farming, as well as people who use traditional methods of cultivating the land, but who reject the use of chemistry in growing tomatoes, use only folk methods to combat late blight of tomatoes. Let's analyze the most popular of them.

Using whey or kefir

Lactic acid bacteria contained in dairy products suppress the pathogenic flora of phytophthora.

It is used for preventive purposes and for treatment. The action of different milk products is the same, although it is whey that gives the maximum effect.

Different ratio to water: whey is diluted 1:1 (or 1:2) with water, a liter of kefir is diluted in 10 liters of water. Instead of kefir, you can take milk and add about 20 drops of iodine. Let the solution stand, then spray. The procedure can be carried out at least every day.

soda treatment

Soda, a product whose usual place is a kitchen cabinet, can be used for late blight of tomatoes.

In half a bucket of water, you need a tablespoon of soda and a little liquid soap for a “sticky” effect.

Repeat every week or after rain.

The use of salt to fight

Salt is able to deal with such a scourge as late blight. After it gets on the leaves and fruits and dries, it will cover everything with a thin white layer, which will prevent the entry of fungi into the plant.

This is only a preventive measure, because. fights on the surface. For saline you need 250 gr. salt dissolve in a 10-liter bucket of water. Spray the entire plant. After the rain, it is worth repeating.

Vinegar

This product is often used as a remedy against late blight.

Half a glass of table (9%) vinegar should be diluted in a bucket of water and spray the entire plant.

It is good to alternate this procedure with other folk and chemical methods.

Toothpaste

This unusual method is also used by many summer residents. There are many substances in toothpaste that have a bactericidal effect.

To combat the disease, you need to take a tube of toothpaste and dilute it in a bucket of water.

For convenience, first stir the paste in a small amount, and then combine with the rest of the water. Toothpaste is better as a preventive measure. Repeat every time after rain, can be combined with other methods.

Spraying with garlic tincture

Garlic has a strong odor and good bactericidal properties. Garlic can be planted along with tomatoes.

To combat the disease, pour 1.5 cups of chopped arrows and heads of garlic with 10 liters of water and leave for a day.

After you need to spray all the bushes with a solution. You need to repeat every 2 weeks.

Boiling water (hot water)

The cheapest way. To do this, clean water must be brought to a boil and poured into a watering can with a special nozzle in the form of a shower head.

Water the tomato bushes with hot water carefully, raising the watering can higher so as not to damage the plant.

Repeat the procedure once a week.

Interesting! It has been established that the spores of the harmful fungus die at temperatures above +30°C.

Ash

Ash solution effectively fights late blight on tomatoes.

You need 5 kg. dissolve the ashes in 10 liters of water and infuse for 3 days, stirring regularly.

After the volume of the solution is brought to 30 liters, add any liquid soap as an "adhesive".

Spray 3 times throughout the season: a week after planting in the ground, before flowering and after the appearance of the first ovaries. Another way: add a glass of tobacco dust to a bucket of ash. Before use, wear a respirator and goggles.

Yeast

An almost constant ingredient in baking is also good for late blight.

It can be used at the first signs of tomato disease and in advance during the appearance of ovaries.

For this 100 gr. yeast must be dissolved in a bucket of warm water, let it brew a little and then spray the whole plant.

Hay protection

And you need to take already rotten, rotted hay.

Approximately a kilogram of hay should be poured with 10 liters of warm water and about 100 gr. urea.

Leave to infuse for 3 days and then treat the tomato bushes with the prepared mixture. Hay stick perfectly prevents the development of phytophthora.

Other ways to combat late blight tomato

There are other ways to treat tomatoes from this scourge. We list the main recipes that gardeners use.

Iodine treatment

A well-known antiseptic agent can be used in combination with other folk remedies (with milk, kefir, ash solution) for a more effective fight.

Dosage: for 10 liters of water - 20 drops of iodine.

To strengthen the immunity of plants in greenhouses, you can hang open jars of iodine.

How to treat with hydrogen peroxide?

This is an additional source of oxygen for plants.

It has oxidizing properties and destroys the pathogenic flora of phytophthora.

Add 2 tbsp per liter of water. hydrogen peroxide and spray the entire plant, especially the lower part of the leaves. Repeat no more than once a week.

How to protect "Bibs" for tomatoes?

Such a device with a "childish" name is covering the soil around a tomato bush with several layers of newspaper, cardboard (or mulching with pre-shredded paper).

Bibs allow you to water less, because. retain moisture in the soil in sufficient quantities, and therefore does not create excessive moisture. In addition, it prevents the transfer of spores from the soil to the plant itself.

Copper wire against adversity

Copper is detrimental to phytophthora fungus spores. A simple and effective way to combat the disease is to wrap the plant near the root collar with copper wire.

For a better result, a small piece of wire (about 4 cm) needs to be pierced at the base of the stem.

The ends must be bent to the ground. Copper wire will help strengthen the plant's immunity and prevent late blight from spreading.

Important! The plant itself must already be well developed, otherwise you can ruin the bush.

Potassium permanganate

This remedy has antiseptic properties.

It is good to use together with other folk methods (garlic, ash, milk).

Calcium chloride

Another drug from the pharmacy perfectly fights phytophthora fungi. It saves the fruits well when the leaves are already affected. To do this, dilute calcium chloride with water in a ratio of 1: 3 and process the fruits of tomatoes.

How to stop copper sulphate infection?

One of the most popular remedies for the treatment of tomatoes from phytophthora.

The main active ingredient is copper, which perfectly copes with adversity.

To prepare a solution of 1 tbsp. preparation and a little liquid soap add to 10 liters. water so that the drug stays on the leaves longer.

Zelenka

An antiseptic in the amount of 40 drops per bucket of water is a good remedy for late blight of tomatoes.

It can be used for prevention and also as a treatment.

Boric acid

Attention! The most effective way is the alternation of the use of iodine, boric acid, brilliant green, manganese. Frequency - once a week.

Bordeaux mixture

Another drug with a copper content (consists of copper sulfate and quicklime).

To prepare the solution, you need to take 100 gr. copper sulfate and 150 gr. quicklime per 10 liters of water, and mix in strict sequence: first blue vitriol in water, and then lime.

The liquid is quite toxic, so you need to use protective equipment.

How to process?

The basic processing rules are as follows:

The weather should be clear and calm;
The best time is early morning or evening;
If the drugs are toxic, then you need to use protective equipment and observe safety precautions;
Do not use metal utensils for preparing solutions, especially chemical ones, and mixing devices (preferably plastic, glass, wood).

Varieties resistant to late blight

There are no such varieties that, in principle, do not suffer from late blight. There are varieties that can resist it more than others. Most often they are hybrid varieties. For a good harvest, it is worth planting early-ripening tomatoes, the harvest of which can be harvested before the mass defeat of late blight. Phytophthora resistant varieties:

Snowstorm;
Budenovka;
Kostroma;
Pink dwarf;
Parterre;
Profitable;
Otradny;
oak forest;
Skylark F1;
De Barao;
Berry;
Solar;
Grotto;
Snezhana;
Cameo etc.

Prevention of late blight on tomatoes

To reduce the risks of infection of tomatoes with phytophthora and save the crop, you need to carry out competent agricultural technology. Fundamental rules:

Crop rotation for tomatoes. Do not plant tomatoes after potatoes, peppers, eggplants, avoid their close proximity. Good precursors for tomatoes are onions, cucumbers, beets, turnips, cauliflower, and carrots. Do not return tomatoes to the same bed before 4 years;
The place for tomato plantings should be sunny;
Choose varieties either early ripe or hybrid varieties most resistant to phytophthora;
If there is a lot of lime in the soil, then when planting, add peat to the hole, and then sprinkle sand around the bush. Put the onion peel in the holes;
Don't plant tomatoes too often;
Tomatoes need to be watered under the root, trying not to touch the leaves and fruits. In the second half of summer, you can not do this procedure at all (an exception is extreme heat without rain), but only regularly loosen the soil around the bush. It is better to water the plants in the morning so that excess moisture is gone during the day. Ideal for drip irrigation.
Mulching bushes;
Planting white mustard, calendula, marigolds, as well as onions, garlic next to tomato bushes;
Remove stepchildren and unnecessary leaves in time;
Increase the immunity of tomatoes: feeding with potassium and phosphorus, spraying with immunomodulators;
Ventilate the greenhouse regularly;
Nitrogen fertilizers are appropriate only in the first half of the growing season, the rest of the time, frequent fertilizing with nitrogen will provoke the growth of phytophthora.

The rules are quite simple. By observing them, you can avoid the mass destruction of tomatoes and not even encounter late blight at all. Any disease is easier to prevent. Then your garden with tomatoes will definitely give an excellent harvest.

Important! Prevention is the best way to deal with this scourge. Proper care will help preserve the crop.

Common mistakes

Most often, the main mistakes are the lack of preventive measures to prevent the disease.

During the rampage of the disease, you should not water the bushes at all, so as not to increase the humidity.
Another mistake is the use of many methods at the same time, especially chemical ones. Surely you can manage and save part of the crop, but the plants themselves may die, and the fruits become poisonous due to the large number of chemicals used.

Frequently asked Questions

Questions about this disease often arise. Let's answer the most common ones:

Is it possible to water tomatoes infected with late blight?

If the weather is cloudy, the air temperature is low, it is even recommended not to water the infected bushes. You just need to loosen the soil.

Is it possible to eat tomatoes with phytophthora?

Fruits of tomatoes with black spots, damaged by the disease, few people want to eat. It is not worth eating, even after removing the damaged areas, because. the spores of the fungus have already completely penetrated the pulp of the fruit. Those tomatoes that the fungus touched only from above can be eaten after heat treatment.

How to save fruits damaged by phytophthora?

Good fruits from an infected bush can be eaten with proper processing: the fruits must be held for 10-15 seconds in water with a temperature of 60℃. After they need to be dried and left to ripen.

How to save plucked tomatoes?

Green tomatoes can be put into conservation for the winter, having previously processed well. Red fruits are best eaten immediately or canned as well.

Useful video

Learn more about the fight against late blight from the video below:

Conclusion

In conclusion, it should be said that the most important thing in the treatment of tomatoes from late blight is prevention. If you take all preventive measures, then problems with this scourge can be avoided.

Which way to treat tomatoes from phytophthora to choose is a personal matter for every gardener. None of the listed methods guarantee complete elimination of the disease. To effectively combat the onset of tomato disease, it is better to alternate methods and methods so that the fungus does not get used to and does not develop immunity to drugs.

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