Pavel Radionov is the winner of the Cluster Cup! Final video. Glossary of billiard English terms Catchy complex exits
Official vocabulary
ABRICOLE - a shot on a billiard table in which the cue ball played in the pocket first hits the side and then hits the object ball.
BILL - 1. see SERIES. 2. a short competition in which participants try to pot the most balls in a certain number of attempts.
CUE-BALL - a ball that, according to the rules of a particular game, is struck.
SIDE SIDE - see SCREW.
BOARD - a limitation of the playing field of a billiard table along its perimeter, consisting of an elastic rubber profile covered with cloth.
SCREW - rotation of the cue ball around a vertical axis, imparted to it when struck by a cue or after interaction with the board. Also any kick with twisting
SPOKING - the procedure for returning popped, incorrectly pocketed or penalty balls to the playing surface of the billiard table. Each billiard game is discussed separately.
EXIT - a successful hit, after which the player brings the next ball to a position convenient for playing.
HANDICAP - providing the opponent with an advantage in the form of a certain number of points, balls, special conditions for making shots, etc.
LIP - a beveled part of the board located in the pocket area.
DOUBLE STROK - An illegal shot in which the cue stick touches the cue ball more than once.
HOUSE - part of the playing surface of a billiard table, limited by the front edge and the front line (house line).
Cue Shaft - The front part of a billiard cue to which the sticker is attached. In an assembled cue there is a part from the sticker to the screw connection.
ARC - a special screw blow, as a result of which the cue ball describes a curve.
DOUBLE - a shot in which the object ball is first reflected from the side and then falls into the pocket.
FOOL - see RANDOM BALL
HOSTED BALL - a ball that has stopped in the pocket in a position of unstable equilibrium.
HARES - two balls standing close together.
ORDER - An announcement before a shot is made of the ball being played and the specific pocket into which it will be played.
CARAMBOL - 1. a type of pocketless billiards. 2. a shot in which the cue ball, having touched one object ball, hits another.
CUE - a billiard accessory used to strike the cue ball. There are factory cues and handmade cues.
KICKS - an unsuccessful shot with the cue sticker slipping along the surface of the cue ball.
PLAYING - a player’s ability to pocket (put) balls into pockets.
KLAPSTOS - a shot in which the cue ball, having hit the object ball, remains in place.
CLUSTER - a cluster of several balls.
CONTROL GAME - the last, decisive game in case of an equal score.
COUNTER COUCH - repeated collision of the cue ball with the object ball.
CROISET - a type of doublet in which the object ball, reflected from the side, crosses the line of movement of the cue ball.
BALL LINE - part of the longitudinal line of the billiard table from the back mark to the back board, on which popped or incorrectly pocketed balls are placed.
HOUSE LINE - A line passing through the front mark parallel to the short side.
Pocket - each of the six holes on a billiard table into which balls are pocketed.
MASK - a position in which one or more balls prevent the cue ball from hitting the object ball.
MASSE - a strike with an inclined or raised cue.
MACHINE - a billiard accessory used as a support for a cue when striking a distant cue ball.
BRIDGE - see CAR
ROLL - a shot in which the cue ball continues to move forward after hitting the object ball.
STICKER - The leather tip on the shaft of a billiard cue that makes direct contact with the ball when the shot is struck.
INITIAL STRIKE - the introduction of the cue ball into the game specifically stipulated by the rules.
WEREWOLF - see CROISET
MARK - a point on the playing surface of the billiard table, marked according to the marking rules. There are central, front and rear marks.
PUSH - a shot in which the cue ball, after hitting the object ball, rolls back in the opposite direction.
RECOVERY - a positional strike that limits the opponent’s ability to perform an effective strike.
PARTY BALL - an object ball, the play of which brings victory in the game.
FRONT LINE - A line passing through the front mark parallel to the short side.
JUMP - a shot in which the cue ball comes off the surface of the billiard table and jumps over one or more balls.
PYRAMID - 1. the initial arrangement of balls in the shape of an equilateral triangle with the vertex at the back mark 2. the general name for Russian billiards in international practice.
KICKING - a successful shot followed by knocking one or more object balls so that they take a position more convenient for continuing the series.
STAND - the position of the balls in which it is not difficult to make a successful shot.
POSITIONAL PLAY - the use of tactical techniques in order to make the game easier for oneself or make the game more difficult for an opponent.
LIP POSITION - bringing the cue ball to a position where the lip of the pocket does not allow a direct hit to the object ball.
HAND RAIL - the upper part of the side not covered with cloth.
OBJECT BALL - any ball on the playing surface of a billiard table other than the cue ball.
KICK - an illegal shot in which the time of contact of the cue sticker with the cue ball is excessively prolonged.
ROBBERY - the initial blow to the pyramid.
SIZE OF THE IMPACT - the distance controlled by the force of the blow, traversed by the cue ball until it stops completely.
ROLL - the ability of the playing surface of a billiard table to maintain the movement given to the ball.
CUTTING - shifting the aiming point away from the center of the object ball.
OWN - see Cue Ball
SERIES - a sequence of successful hits by the same player in one approach.
ROLLING - playing balls into a pocket with a quiet roll.
With KIYA - a series of effective strikes or a completed game from one approach.
RANDOM BALL - a ball that fell into a pocket unintentionally.
WATCHMAN - a played object ball located in close proximity to the pocket and allowing a scoring shot to be made when the cue ball is taken out of the mask or a remote position.
CLOTH is a special covering for the playing field of a billiard table.
DRY - a game in which the loser failed to score a single ball.
MOTHER-IN-LAW - see CAR
TRIANGLE - a billiard accessory used for the initial placement of balls.
TURNIAK - the thick part of the cue.
TOUCH - any touching of the balls that is contrary to the rules: by hand, with a machine, with clothing, with a cue (not with a sticker), etc.
HAND STROKE - putting the cue ball into play from home.
FOUL - see FINE
HANDICAP - see HANDICAP
FRENCH - a cue ball with strong sideways rotation and a slow forward movement along the board towards the corner pocket.
FUCHS BALL - see RANDOM BALL
ALIEN - see OBJECT BALL
SHAFT - see SHAFT
FINE - a violation of the rules of the game, followed by a penalty specified by the rules.
EFFE - see SIDE
Restoration of masonry
It may happen that once you get to a certain level of success at playing billiards, you begin to focus too much on ball positions and game strategy, and simply stop potting balls. Below is a simple exercise that will help you quickly restore your technique of pocketing balls if you lose it. Just roll out the entire pyramid of balls on the table and start hammering them in a random order. Don't think about which ball is easier to score, just don't think about getting out of the next shot and about other details of your game. Approach the shots without hesitation: you saw a pair of balls standing, walked up, took a shot, heard the aiming one fall into the pocket, move on. You missed - don't worry. If the cue ball gets into an awkward situation, move it and hit further. The purpose of the exercise is to physically feel the process of pocketing balls without additional difficulties, after which you will never miss during the game - regardless of the current position on the table. And if you do, it won’t matter much to you. We guarantee that after ten minutes of such training, your confidence will return and you will enjoy the game.
Visual memory
Some players remember the matches they played with almost photographic accuracy, while others cannot even tell what happened on the table 10 minutes ago. If you belong to the latter category, then it is worth developing a small “selective” memory - it will help you in the future. After you make a great shot or roll out the entire pyramid beautifully, try to reproduce all these actions in memory in as much detail as possible: the exact location of the balls, the shot, the screw you applied, the balls falling into the pocket. Make a little “memo” of shots in your subconscious: when your game leaves much to be desired, remember past victories that you are proud of, and your confidence will return again.
"Natural beauty
The benefits of playing billiards should be as “natural” as possible. With this term we mean medium or quiet blows in the center, or at least along the vertical axis of the ball (without using side screws). Advanced players can plan two or more shots in advance, each of them being “natural.” One of the benefits of "natural" play is control over speed. When you use a side spin, it is difficult to predict how fast the ball will roll after contacting the object ball or the bead. When you fully control the speed, you can more accurately plan your exit to the next ball, and roll the cue ball much closer to the object ball, which has a beneficial effect on the ease of the shot.
Training the strength and size of the blow
The following exercise, recommended by famous billiard masters, will help you gain control over the power of your shots. Place the cue ball on the home spot and hit the center of the ball with such force that the ball rolls to the far side and stops right there. Happened? Amazing! Now try to repeat this blow ten times in a row. Then, placing the cue ball on the home point, hit its center with such force that it rolls to the far side, bounces off it and stops at the pyramid point.
Then repeat the same for the middle point of the billiards, the home point, the near side, etc. Work on the consistency of your shots: just because you managed to place the ball accurately, for example, to the far side, this does not mean that you will be able to score ball in five cases out of five or ten out of ten. Add a top or bottom screw and see how this technique affects the size of your shot. In the future, you will be able to move away from practicing hitting strictly in a straight line and try hitting from two, three or more sides, adding a side screw, trying to pocket the ball when hitting, etc. Do this training regularly, especially when playing on an unfamiliar table. Remember that precise control of the force and size of the blow has always distinguished true experts in the game of billiards from amateurs.
Hit the bottom of the ball
Often, when playing "Nine", you have to hit some kind of object ball on your shot off the board and then (ideally) leave the balls on the table in an awkward position for your opponent. If the object ball is close to the board, then there is a shot option that many players somehow overlook. Hit the bottom screw as if you were hitting the ball straight. If you hit the object ball head-on, the cue ball will remain in its place, and the object ball itself will move to the other side of the table.
Linearity training
Staying in your stance, wait for the ball to come back and touch the cue stick with its center. Didn't touch it? This means that you did not aim exactly at the center of the opposite edge, or did not hit the cue ball exactly in the center, or the linearity of your shot was disrupted (when the pool table is not level, you should hit harder). Note whether the cue ball went straight through the center of the home point, or deviated from it in one direction or another. Perform this exercise every practice until the cue ball touches the cue stick on almost every shot.
Don't be too greedy
If you decide to play billiards for money, then this is the time to behave calmly, with restraint at the table and not put unnecessary pressure on your opponent.
Don't call fouls other than obvious ones, don't argue over rules, and generally don't do anything that would encourage your opponent to end the game early.
There have been cases when a player began to argue over trifles, having an impressive advantage in the match, and as a result was left with nothing! If you are already in a winning situation (that is, not losing), then the best course of action at the table is to allow your opponent to do whatever he needs to be completely happy. In other words, to paraphrase the famous Russian proverb, “no matter what your opponent enjoys, as long as he doesn’t leave.”
Don't move the balls
When you watch a top billiards player play - whether he's playing Eight, Nine or 14.1 - you'll see that his cue ball never touches the object balls without a good reason. In reality, there is practically only one situation when the cue ball needs to touch a ball other than the one that has just been pocketed: if you need to break up a group that is interfering with the further progress of the series. However, there are a couple of reasons why we should not touch the cue ball with object balls: firstly, after touching, the cue ball may roll in an undesirable direction for you and there will not be a decent exit for the next shot; secondly, the object ball can, after touching, move into such a position that it will cover the hitherto open ball. If your skill level allows for long streaks, then the whole game in 14.1 will come down to how and when to pocket the right balls without changing the existing table position more than necessary to continue the streak.
Decisive thought
If you decide to try to pot a difficult ball across the table, there is a setup that will definitely help you. Let your last and decisive thought before the blow be this: “I will keep my head down, and my blow will be excellent.” When making shots that seem difficult to a player, there is one clear tendency: the player hits hard, jumps up immediately after the shot, and throws off his aim in a desperate attempt to make last-minute adjustments before the shot. All of the above reduces the chances of pocketing a difficult ball to almost zero. On the other hand, if you set yourself the task of performing a calm, straight strike and not jumping up immediately afterward, your hit percentage will noticeably increase.
Installing a pyramid when playing "Nine"
It may happen that you play Nine pool with a person who constantly pockets the first ball in the side pocket when breaking the pyramid. If you set up a pyramid, there is a good opportunity to reduce the chances of your opponent making a good hit on the second ball. Usually, with this method of breaking the pyramid, your ball stops in the home area. And if you place the second ball in the second row of the pyramid from the end, there is a high probability that it will stop on the opposite side from “yours”, which will make it difficult to hit it. With a high level of play from both opponents, attention to such small details can be decisive in the outcome of the match.
Defensive play
Any football fan is probably familiar with the phrase “playing from defense”: when one of the teams achieves a significant advantage, and the match is nearing the end, the leading team can take a tight defensive position, preferring to maintain the gained advantage and not take risks in open play. Unfortunately, such game tactics are not always winning, as evidenced by the experience of most Russian and foreign teams.
The losing team can become inspired, mobilize all its resources and in the last minutes of the match equalize the score or even win the match. The same thing can happen when playing billiards.
If, for example, you are leading 4:1 in games in a best-of-five match, it may seem like the match is already “done” and you will avoid difficult shots, preferring to play it safe and play conservatively. Do not do that! As one wise saying goes, “dance at the party with the one who invited you there.” This means that you should continue to play with the same diligence, a degree of risk and an attitude towards the game that will allow you to achieve an advantage - victory is guaranteed to you.
Overboard beyond the table
Avoid using the top screw on those shots from the boards when the force of the blow is quite high, and “your” ball is close to the side you are hitting. Rolling up in certain cases can lead to the fact that “your” ball “climbs” onto the side and jumps out of the table. Of course, this is a great way to get to know the players at the next table, but if at the moment it is much more important for you to finish your game with a victory, then you should forget about shots from the top screw for a while. If you still think that using this blow is necessary, then you should moderate the strength and severity of the screw so that “your” ball does not jump up after contacting the side.
There is another very risky shot that only top players use in order to take advantage of the above situation. If you perform it in a certain way, “your” ball, after contacting the board, will jump in the air towards the center of the table, jumping over someone else’s ball standing in the way and hitting another someone else’s ball, which is the target ball. However, using this move in a game by a player who is not a true expert is comparable to jumping from a plane without a parachute.
Don't show it
From time to time, when playing “American” in Russian billiards or “Nine” in pool (games where you don’t need to pocket before hitting), the shot is executed poorly, but the result is simply brilliant. Your opponent can only guess: was it your idea or were you just lucky and pocketed the ball completely by accident? In such situations, it is recommended not to say anything and continue the game as if nothing special happened. Once you have a psychological advantage, don't waste it by telling your opponent that you just got lucky and showing your embarrassment about it. Let your opponent guess further!
Exit after "Nine"
It may sound absurd, but every nine ball player knows that the advantage of hitting the ninth ball is that you don't have to worry about where the cue ball is after the shot, unless it lands in one of the pockets, of course. The problem is that since the situation is different from any other strike, there is a possibility of performing the strike not in the usual way, but in a different way. This often leads to errors. This problem is also aggravated by the psychological factor: usually finishing shots in a game are more difficult, so it is very useful to force yourself to practice playing positions with potting the ninth ball, and you should perform the finishing shot in the same way as any other, that is, thinking about getting out of “your own” ball.
Of course, you should not roll the cue ball to the opposite side of the table and use any complex screws, but it is necessary to plan the place where “your” ball will stop. The reward for your efforts will be a higher percentage of games won.
Wet chalk
If at any time, when rubbing the sticker of a cue with chalk, you feel even a slight softness of the chalk compared to its usual hardness and abrasive properties, then immediately replace this cube with a new one.
Chalk easily absorbs moisture from the air, from sweat, or when a drink is spilled on it. And if you rub your cue with wet chalk, your shot will be more likely to be inaccurate. In fact, wetting the chalk or sticker of your opponent's cue is a long-known method of cheating in the game in order to ruin your opponent's shot. It is unlikely that you would cheat so blatantly against your partners at the billiard table, but you cannot help but admit that they could do the same to you.
Bounce off the board
Many players do not become particularly proficient with the propeller during the first few years of their gaming career. If you want to spin the ball to the left as it bounces off the board, you will use a left screw. However, if you want the ball to spin to the left towards the board itself at a wide angle, then, on the contrary, you should give the lower right screw. To better understand these guidelines, move to the other side of the table and imagine the direction you want the ball to spin, then move back a little and hit the side of the ball that you want to spin. Remember: in order for the ball to spin towards the board itself after bouncing off it, you should hit the opposite side of the ball from the intended direction of its movement after the bounce.
Interested viewers
Have you noticed how your billiards game changes if someone from the outside is watching it, such as your boss, wife, close friend, or just someone you want to impress?
Such an observation puts pressure on almost every player: some begin to concentrate more on their shots and, therefore, perform them more accurately, while others play for the audience, trying to create an effect due to the beauty of the pocketed ball or the exit for the next shot.
When something like this happens to your opponent, there is nothing wrong with taking advantage of the situation. The best tactics of the game will be to go into deep defense, in which you will not put anything easy for your opponent. Accordingly, he will have to take risks, and taking risks in such a situation often leads to mistakes, which, in turn, can bring you victory. This tactic is especially effective if the spectator present knows little about the game of billiards and simply came to watch your opponent “chase the balls.”
Dispute Resolution
If you play billiards for money, it is inevitable that one day you will have disagreements with your opponent. In nature, there are no quick and precise rules for resolving such disputes, but there are things that should be kept in mind. Before entering into an argument, assess the degree to which you are right and the possibility of a physical conflict with your opponent, think about how much is at stake, assess your situation in the match, as well as the possible consequences of the conflict. In some situations, it is more prudent to simply agree with the opponent’s demands, but in some places it is still necessary to insist on your own. If the amount at stake is small or if the opponent becomes aggressive, it is better to simply agree with his claims, get out of the conflict situation and after this incident never play with this person. On the other hand, if the rivals come to a disagreement, which is nevertheless unlikely to result in a fight, it is better for them to clearly define the essence of the issue and, if possible, invite a third disinterested person to make an independent decision.
Most billiard rooms are not dangerous establishments, but disputes between players occur almost everywhere. The best advice is not to be short-tempered, to behave with dignity and not to say anything for which you cannot answer later.
And of course, the best way to prevent disagreements is to invite someone to referee any type of shot, the result of which could lead to a dispute between the partners, and to jointly agree on the methods of refereeing.
Take a walk
Every time you have a choice of which ball to hit before making your next shot, take a short walk around the table. Often, your best option may not be immediately visible, but will only reveal itself when looking at the position from a certain angle. Of course, such a walk is worth taking if you are unhappy with your first option, but even with a good option, you can find an even better one. Of course, we do not suggest walking around the table for five minutes, but we do recommend that while walking, you can run through different options for striking in your mind.
Jitters
Jitters are the fear of making a mistake with an easy but decisive blow, which leads to a mistake.
Consider the following example.
You have to perform a not at all difficult blow, which under normal conditions can be performed even blindfolded. This blow is decisive: done correctly - you win the game, missed - the advantage is on the partner’s side. And then you feel a rapid heartbeat, unnecessary thoughts creep into your head that you will most likely miss. Moreover, if the strike were not so simple, then a mistake in performing it would not have affected your psychological state in any way: you would calmly wait for your series and continue the game further. However, if you make a mistake in a simple blow, your psychological state can noticeably deteriorate, which will lead to defeat not only in this game, but also in subsequent ones.
Therefore, performing simple and decisive strikes requires special concentration. You need to get rid of the jitters and focus on how to clearly and correctly execute the strike. Feel free to spend extra time aiming, concentrate, get rid of unnecessary emotions, and mentally “replay” the blow in your head. Before such a strike, you should additionally check your stance, the straightness of the cue on the bridge, and the presence of a sufficient amount of chalk on the sticker.
You should not try to create an effect with the beauty of your blow. Excessive strength can lead to the ball simply jumping out of the pocket. Think clearly about where the cue ball (if you are playing an object ball) or the object ball (if you are playing your object ball) will go after the shot. So, in some games, falling a cue ball into a pocket is penalized, and having barely rejoiced at the victory, you can immediately be upset by the defeat. You should not apply the screw during the decisive blow, since there is a possibility of kicking, or losing control of the ball, which will roll in the wrong direction.
Thus, before the decisive blow, carefully consider all its elements and possible consequences, remove everything that seems risky to us, gather yourself mentally and complete your path to victory.
Safe wagering
When playing “Nine” it is often very difficult to make a good hit on the ball with the lowest number, and there is also no opportunity to “cover” the ball well for the opponent when playing back. In such a situation, try rolling the cue ball and the lowest-numbered object ball to opposite ends of the table, while placing the object ball as close to the middle of the short edge as possible, and the cue ball close to the edge.
This will create a problem for your opponent: firstly, due to the length of the blow, and secondly, due to the inconvenience of setting up the bridge. You should take into account where the “nine” is located, since an opponent’s successful combination with it can nullify all your efforts.
Place on a napkin
There is a very good exercise for training positional play and exits for the next shot. Come up with some simple shot and to perform it, lightly mark the location of the cue ball and the object ball with chalk. Then unfold a small napkin and place it anywhere on the table. Your task is to strike and roll out the remaining ball on the table (cue ball if you are playing “someone else’s” and “alien” if you are playing “your own”) onto this napkin. Try to achieve stability in this shot so that the ball ends up on the napkin nine times out of ten. Having completed the task, move the napkin to another place and start again from the same position. If the exercise seems too easy, try folding the napkin, making the shot more difficult, or adding a third ball. This exercise has many variations, so each new workout will be interesting for you in its own way.
Towel
It is very helpful to bring a small hand towel along with all your other billiards equipment. By the way, almost all professional players have such a towel with them, but for some reason amateurs forget about it or even hear about it for the first time. You need to develop the habit of periodically drying your hands and erasing the accumulated deposits from the shaft: this process is one of the unnoticeable details that, meanwhile, greatly influences the quality and consistency of the strikes. It's always nice to hit the balls with a smooth and clean cue, so why not allow yourself this little luxury?!
Watch your back
Does your back hurt after playing billiards for several hours? Perhaps she bothers you constantly? If you learn to lean toward the table correctly, playing billiards will not only not cause pain, but will also strengthen your back, making it more flexible and elastic. The answer is that you need to tilt at the hip joint, and not at the waist, as most people do.
The waist is part of the spine, which means that you will bend along a curve, and not at an angle of 80-90°, as required by the correct stance.
Many people do not see the difference between correct and incorrect stances. We will tell you how to properly lean towards the table. For this exercise you will not need a cue or a table. Stand up straight and place your index fingers on your pelvis. Try to lean forward, using your index fingers as an axis around which to rotate, nothing else should bend. Now move one of your fingers to your tailbone and the other to the top of your head and try to bend over again. These two fingers and the spine should form a straight line, which will remain unchanged when tilted. If you're still not sure about the correct stance, watch how the pros bend. Golfers also tilt in the pelvis. Proceed in the same way, but bend a little deeper.
Timidity
No doubt you have ever found yourself (or will find yourself) in the following situation. You are playing against an opponent whose level of play you know very little, and at the very beginning of the match he makes a long, difficult and beautiful shot, after which the ball comes out into a perfect position for the next shot. Or your opponent beautifully plays out the entire pyramid in one series. In this case, it is extremely important to control the psychological reaction; If you thought: “Oh, I can’t do this!”, then you have already lost. You should think like this: “He can’t succeed forever.” During your next approach to the table, carefully plan your series, focus on each shot and win. Soon you will probably notice that your opponent’s brilliant play is deteriorating and after a while he will be no different from you in terms of class of play or even play worse. Remember that high-quality players almost never show the true level of their play, which cannot be said about amateurs. If your opponent really turns out to be so strong, then you will have to seriously think about your actions.
Let him suffer
Let's say that at the moment your opponent is having difficulty making shots and, of course, is hoping for an easy shot to increase his confidence.
Try in no case to allow your opponent to get an easy position to strike. This is another example of the basic principle: you need to take more risks against strong opponents and less against weak ones.
If your partner is playing poorly at all or is simply unlucky right now, then don’t jeopardize anything. Your opponent at the table will make a lot of mistakes, and you will win as a result.
Let him be honest
With rare exceptions, nothing will give your opponent more confidence than the perception of your cowardice. If you're just thinking about how to play it safe and are afraid of making a shot that will incur a penalty if you miss, then your opponents will feel like they can make any shots with impunity - unless they leave object balls right on the edge of the pocket.
Weight, what you need to do to combat this is to pot difficult balls periodically. Ideally, if you are sure that you will either score or not set up the entire game at once in case of a miss. However, the main purpose of these strikes is to show your opponent that you strike without any fear and that he will now have to think twice before playing against you with impunity and recklessness.
More than one pocket
Sometimes when making an exit, some players have doubts about which pocket to hit.
There is a well-known rule: you need to hit the balls into the pocket closest to them, since the reliability of the hit is high. However, there are many exceptions to this rule: for example, you can pot a ball by stopping the cue ball in its place and then play a nearby ball into a pocket at the opposite end of the table. Most likely, this blow will be more reliable than performing a difficult exit under the second ball on your side, especially if there are others besides the indicated two object balls. There is a common case when the first ball is a little more difficult to pot, but an advantageous position for the second shot is obtained automatically.
And it is easier to perform a complex slice shot into a side pocket and move the cue ball to the opposite side of the table than to easily drive an object ball into a corner pocket and pull the cue ball with an “extreme screw” to take an acceptable position.
Exit to the other end of the table
If you need to get the cue ball to the other end of the table in order to then hit the ball on the opposite side, then it is really worth going to the next ball and assessing its position at close range. If it is located close enough to the board, then the likelihood of performing a bad exit will be extremely small and errors are possible. You can hit it hard enough for the cue ball to hit the opposite side and bounce off it, and if there are slight variations in the speed of the ball, you will still get an acceptable exit. If the object ball is located a significant distance from the board, you will not be able to pocket it easily when the cue ball stops near the board. Therefore, in this case, the situation with the exit is more complicated: you will have to roll the cue ball so that it does not reach the board and takes an acceptable position, or hit with more force so that the ball bounces far enough from the board. Be sure to make sure before striking what situation you find yourself in.
Closed eyes
You might be surprised at the number of shots you can pot with your eyes closed. Just focus on the shot, making sure your aim is accurate.
Move the cue back and forth several times to feel the strike. Then close your eyes and perform the kick.
You may find that with your eyes closed you can make a particular shot more accurately. This happens due to the fact that your vision does not interfere with you at the most inopportune moment, forcing you to doubt and, a moment before the impact, move the cue a little to the right or a little to the left. Spend a few minutes at least occasionally practicing your blind shots, and you will notice that your confidence at the point of impact will noticeably increase.
Practice combinations
When there is distance between two object balls, combination shots become extremely difficult because they require much more precision than regular shots. You can use this fact to develop extreme accuracy in your shots: randomly place all 15 balls on the table, choose a combination to hit, execute the shot and then repeat the above.
You will miss most of your shots in the beginning, but this workout will help you in several ways. Firstly, it will teach you to be extremely careful when aiming, after which hitting lonely object balls will seem like child's play. Secondly, you will be able to recognize which combinations are complex and which are relatively simple. Combinations will constantly occur in a real game, often in situations where the execution of a given blow will determine victory or defeat in the game (especially when playing “Nine”).
Breaking with a guy
Some players like to place the bottom screw against the cue ball when breaking a pyramid, probably in order to leave the cue ball somewhere near the middle of the table.
This is not necessarily a good idea: the energy you expend spinning the cue ball at impact is not the energy transferred to the pyramid. When you hit the ball anywhere below the level of the cue and the hit is strong enough, you run the risk of the cue ball jumping off the table after colliding with the pyramid.
If you still insist on using the bottom screw, then strike at a distance of half the diameter of the sticker below the center of the ball - this will be enough for the ball to bounce back under the weight of the pyramid.
Chalk and friction
The main purpose of the chalk on a cue sticker is to provide friction: the skin of the sticker must make proper contact with the ball without sticking.
The more friction the chalk provides, the farther from the center of the ball you can hit without fear of making a mistake. However, tests carried out by American billiard theorist Jack Koehler found that too much chalk on the sticker actually reduced friction. Presumably the chalk particles slide along each other instead of getting stuck between the sticker and the ball. So, although chalking a sticker is very important to ensure a quality game, you need to use moderation.
Stand angle
Standing at the correct angle to the cue is one of the fundamentals of the game of billiards, which many players cannot master perfectly. For a normal swing, your foot should be at an angle of approximately 45" to the cue. The exact angle will vary depending on your physiology and swing, but this is a good guideline. If you are at an incorrect angle, your hitting arm will will stick out like a chicken wing, or will touch the body, which also creates difficulties with aiming along the cue line.
Bridge when broken
For games that require a strong break, renowned pool master Earl Strickland (well known for playing with cues CueTec and his name is used in the name of one series of cues of this brand) developed a new breaking technique. You might want to try it out in your game. The maximum impact force is achieved with a long bridge. With this in mind, Strickland placed the cue ball on the home line, approximately 15–20 cm from the board, and the bridge near the side pocket. This allowed him to give maximum force to the blow. The disadvantage of this kind of breakdown is that if you have problems with your aim while making a shot, then in this case they will naturally be more noticeable - you may not hit the object ball accurately. In general, this technique is not suitable for every player, but it is worth trying it and looking at the results.
Ending the game early if you win
When playing billiards for money, there is one important rule: if, after winning several games, you try to finish the game and leave with the money, then soon, at best, you will become the owner of notoriety in the billiard halls where you play, and at worst, you may and get hit in the face.
In any case, if, for example, you win 4 games out of 5 and leave, then your opponent will remain angry with you. There is also an unwritten rule: when you win, you must continue playing until you defeat your opponent so much that he decides to stop playing and settle, or until your winnings are reduced to zero.
There are several points that will help you avoid unpleasant situations;
1) set a time limit for the game in advance, and then your opponent will not object to your leaving. However, it should be borne in mind that you must finish the game at the specified time under any circumstances - it does not matter whether they are favorable or not;
2) we are obliged to play only on the initially agreed terms. If your opponent, for example, offers to change the bet or asks for a handicap, then you have the right to refuse him;
3) this rule may not apply to games with a small bet against opponents with whom you play often or constantly, but it is still worth discussing with them in advance the condition for possible termination of the game in a winning situation.
And finally, if you feel that you are in good gaming shape, you can invite your opponent to play a game “for calculation”, that is, for the entire amount that he has lost to you up to that moment. This way, you will give him a chance to get even - it will be incomparably better than just getting up and leaving.
Defensive strategy
If you have no choice but to give your opponent a shot, try leaving him in a position that allows him to hit only across the table. In this case, the opponent will have to think for a long time about getting under the next ball in order to continue the series. If a player tries to make a shot with a screw, there is a very high probability that he will miss and the turn will go to you again, and this time you will be eating from your hand.
Training method
A very good practice in American pool is to constantly repeat the same shot, but with increasing difficulty each time. For example, if you are practicing a slice shot, start with the cue ball close to the object ball, and as you consistently hit that shot, move the cue ball back (adjusting the angle for the slice), making the shot a little harder. This practice will help you not only put aside the execution of a given blow in your head, but also correctly calculate your strength in this or that combination that arises in a real game.
Ask your partner
If you're playing against a top player and you notice that he's hitting in a way that you wouldn't even think of hitting, try to understand why your opponent did what he did. Did he think at the same time that his chances of potting the ball would be higher, or in this way he was winning back the position, and perhaps he wanted to protect himself in case of a miss?
You can learn a lot if thinking like this becomes a habit. If you find it difficult to determine the reasons for a particular blow, just ask. Many players love to share their understanding of the situation in the game, especially when there is an opportunity to stroke their ego!
Working off the klapstos
We offer you a good exercise for practicing the klapstos strike. Place the object ball on the diagonal of the table approximately two diamonds from the corner pocket and the cue ball one diamond from the object ball on the line of the pocket. Practice your shot from this position until you can consistently roll the object ball and the cue ball stops clearly in the line of its motion: this happens when the cue ball slides along the cloth rather than rolling to contact the object ball. Once you have mastered this shot, gradually move the cue ball towards the next diamond. As you increase the distance to the object ball, you will have to hit it harder or use the bottom screw to force the cue ball to stop.
Mastering the klapstoss is one of the most important skills in American pool, as using this shot gives you great confidence in the future location of the cue ball on the playing field.
When to Use Aiming Systems
The more you play pool, the more you will no doubt learn and master the various aiming systems used to facilitate the calculation of doubles, board shots and cue ball trajectories. But how do you determine when to use any of them and when not to? The answer is simple - never use these systems if you have a good feel for the shot you are about to perform. In other words, stand in your stance, look along the line of sight, and if you are firmly confident in the correct cutting angle, simply trust your intuition. If she says, “Oh, I’m confused!” - then it’s time to retrieve from memory all the studied aiming systems and try to mentally calculate the necessary trajectories.
Error error
Occasionally you will hear someone claim that all slice shots where the object ball is aimed at the pocket are equally difficult. This is absolutely false. If you follow the "imaginary" ball concept, all shots are naturally straight because all you have to do is aim the cue ball at a spot on the table where, at the moment of contact with the object ball, it will lie on a straight line through the center object ball and pocket. However, the angle accuracy you need to make a cut increases significantly as you increase the cutting angle. If you're interested in the math behind this point, check out Jack Koechler's book, The Science of Pocket Billiards.
You'll find that cutting at a shallow angle allows for much more room for error than the razor-sharp cutting angles you probably often choose to aim at the next ball!
Picture your stance for your next shot.
A common mistake when determining the exit area for the next ball is to abstractly estimate the cut angle without understanding the stance that will need to be taken to make that shot. When pulling across the table (or using a machine), your aiming accuracy will noticeably decrease, and it will be much more difficult for you to make a draw or make a strong blow. In many cases, you will have a greater advantage if you choose a longer shot or a different cutting angle. It is also necessary to evaluate the position of your body for a future blow before making an exit, and not after the blow is executed! So make it a habit to mentally visualize the stance and bridge that you will use to hit each subsequent ball.
Practicing doublets without the cue ball
In his book Upscale Nine Ball, Jack Koechler offers an excellent way to practice doublets. Since the angle of reflection of the object ball from the rail during a double depends largely on the speed of the cue ball, the screw used and the cutting angle, as well as the angle of impact of the object ball with the rail, Koehler recommends practicing doubles without the cue ball from time to time, thereby eliminating all variable factors , except the last one. Simply roll several balls across the table and hammer them in doublets into the designated pockets, using a medium-strength blow and without screws. Once you can pocket balls this way with a certain success rate, you will know that you have mastered the object ball trajectories for basic double shots. Now you can return the cue ball to the table and truly enjoy playing doubles!
Leave the ball at the tailgate
When playing a series in Straight Pool (14.1), Single Pocket, and sometimes Eight, it is often useful to leave one ball at the back rail, behind the cluster of balls left over from the padded pyramid. What is the use of this ball? If for some reason the cut angle for your next shot turns out to be such that you will not be able to get under any other ball on the table, in this situation the ball left at the tail rail can be an invaluable insurance for you. You should not leave more than one ball for backup, since several balls can block each other. This advice is not a strict and mandatory rule, it just illustrates an idea that is worth remembering when splinting a series.
A kick from the boards leading to an active continuation of the game
Hardly any of you can call the situations pleasant when playing “Nine”, when you have to play from the side. However, if you find yourself in such a situation, you, of course, try to execute such a shot in the best possible way. It happens that a position arises in the game in which you have the opportunity to send the cue ball from the board to the object ball along two or even three different trajectories. If you feel that you can perform all of these shots with almost equal success, you should choose the one that will lead you to the most active continuation of the game. For example, you have just such a case when playing from the long side does not present any difficulties for you. But if you hit a strong shot from the short side, you can roll the balls all over the table and you will have a better chance of pocketing one of them and continuing your streak.
Exit under the side pocket
Beginner pool players and those who have just gained a little experience make the mistake of entering the side pocket too often. Of course, the basic principle of billiards is to pocket the ball closest to it, but the two side pockets are quite deceptive. Since they are at right angles to the board, their space, unlike corner pockets, becomes wider as the angle from the cue ball to the object ball increases. Also, when the object ball is somewhere in the middle of the table and the pocket is wide open to it, the space where the cue ball can be brought out for a shot is narrowed. Consequently, it is much easier to pocket most balls into the corner pockets.
Good hit
In any game, it is considered good form for an athlete to compliment an opponent when he plays excellently. However, when playing billiards, the constant repetition of the phrase “good shot!” can be quite irritating for your opponent: even if you do it with the best intentions, your words can throw him out of the rhythm of planning his next strike. Fortunately, billiard players have long developed a subtle but subtle way of showing their appreciation of a shot - simply tap the base of your cue gently on the floor a couple of times, as if applauding. This is a great way to show that you appreciate the best aspects of your opponent's game.
Railway track technique
If you're having trouble aiming, try using the railroad track technique. Instead of imagining a line going from the object ball to the pocket, imagine two lines - one on each side of the opponent's ball: the object ball will follow these lines to the pocket like on rails, aim the cue ball so that it touches the opponent's ball right in the middle this track. This aiming method helps to focus the blow more accurately.
Rules of the game
Before you play pool with a stranger (and especially for money), make sure you play by the same rules. Unlike other games, pool has many variations, and by discussing all the rules up front, you can save yourself from unnecessary arguments in a certain situation.
Be sure to check with your opponent whether you are required to touch the side when playing back and how to play a “shot from the hand”, from anywhere on the table or from “home” (from behind the line to the second diamond). Also find out whether the fall of the cue ball when hitting the “eight” (and its failure to pocket) is an automatic loss.
Screws are good in moderation
"Screw" is an excellent tool for a good exit. However, beginners tend to use it too often, thus trying to compensate for poor power control when playing. Which leads to a lot of misses because with extreme spin you have to adjust for the deflection of the ball. Instead of this “chic”, learn to predict and calculate the deviation with minimal screws - a quarter of a sticker, half a sticker and a whole sticker. Use the two-sticker screw only when the target is so close and obvious that you simply cannot miss.
Pull to "nine"
Here's a truly underrated trick for a quick win when playing "Nine": imagine the "nine" being so close to the pocket that it almost falls into it, the cue ball and object ball being close but not on the same line, and you can play directly with a ball or doublet.
Check to see if it is possible to hit the object ball and then use the backdrop to hit the nine. Try to aim the object ball at any other ball on the table or at the pocket so that if you miss, the combination you leave for your opponent is not an easy one.
Acting out to a heavy doublet
When playing “Nine”, it is quite common that there are only two balls left, located more or less on the vertical axis of the table. You don't have much choice: either a cool doublet or a very thin cut - and both are very risky! But why not arrange it so that your opponent has to solve this problem?
Try to play the “nine” on the “cut” - in case of an error, it will fall from the long side to the middle of the short side, and the cue ball will return to the center of the opposite short side. This blow will be even more “deadly” for your opponent if you manage to leave the “nine” right next to the board.
Aiming for a double-sided strike
A typical double edge looks like this: the object ball hits the short edge, then the long edge, and is then successfully sent into the corner pocket at the opposite end of the table. Before aiming, it is a good idea to aim the object ball at an exact 45° angle to the short side. Count an equal number of diamonds on both sides to correctly calculate the angle and hit the object ball right along that line. If you are playing with a deck cue whose playing qualities you do not yet know, try aiming several times to understand what adjustment is needed.
Combination "Hares"
The combination is called “hares” if two balls lie next to each other, pressed against each other. Sometimes they are directed directly into the pocket or 2-3 cm past it. However, not everything is as bad as it seems at first glance, and the situation can be easily corrected if you are smart enough to calculate the correct angle. To make the second ball go a little more to the right than usual, hit the first ball left of center. This simple procedure is supposed to make the second object ball roll to the left. But since the balls are initially tightly coupled, the position obliges the ball to roll a little more to the right than you wanted or expected.
Don't make "stands"
In billiard slang, to make a “stand” means to miss and leave your opponent a chance for an easy victory. When playing “Nine”, your chances of making a “stand” increase: sooner or later, in almost every game, situations arise in which gamblers are overwhelmed by the desire to go all-in, put everything on the line and win a big jackpot. But professionals know that you will lose much fewer games if you train yourself not to take big risks in cases where you can lose everything.
Remember: in risky situations, it is better to measure seven times and cut once. And it’s even better to maintain composure until the last, allowing you to both measure and cut off your opponent.
Keep score with coins
If your billiard room does not have a counter, do not be discouraged: there is nothing easier, more convenient and more reliable than keeping score with one or two coins. The coins are placed on the central diamond of the short side - the same one from which you break and each player chooses the direction - left or right. Next, you move the coin forward one “diamond” for each game you win. If you are playing just one game, then count the pocketed balls; if you are playing several games, then each diamond is a win. You can come up with your own personal counting system using just a couple of coins. The scope for creativity is unlimited.
"Slider"
Do you want the cue ball to roll forward a little more after impact? Nothing could be simpler. Moreover, this can be achieved in two different ways - choose to suit every taste. You will achieve what you want by hitting the cue ball very gently, but there is a risk that the object ball will not roll along the trajectory you planned. What to do? A professional technique is to use a “slider”. Aim slightly below center, but instead of hitting hard, hit lightly. By the time the cue ball hits the object ball, the vertical screw will no longer have any effect on the shot and the cue ball will roll slowly forward after impact.
Mirror Strike
Quite often when playing "Nine" you are forced to play "heel" (that is, hit the cue ball so that it first hits the side and only then rolls back to the object ball). There is a good technique for properly aiming the heel shot when the object ball is approximately 30cm from the side. Take your cue and measure the distance from the object ball to the corner of the bead. Now, using the same scheme, measure the distance from the side to the corner of the table. Point the cue ball directly at this imaginary place in space. Use moderate speed when hitting and slightly accelerate the ball with the screw. If you did everything correctly, then rest assured: you will not miss.
Main table in billiard room
Any billiard room usually has a main table, which is simply terrible for outside visitors.
This is the table where most games are played for money, and around which there is ample seating for spectators to follow the game and make insightful comments along the way. The problem is that most often such tables are adjusted differently from other tables in the same billiard room. The most common difference is considered to be the width of the pockets - they are usually very narrow (regulars of this billiard room are already accustomed to this), which makes you feel not very comfortable.
In addition, a huge number of games take place on the main table, but it does not receive additional cleaning, and the cloth is changed with the same frequency as on other tables. This causes the main tables to become "slow" and generally uneven.
But local players, as a rule, know all the nuances. Therefore, if you decide to go into an unfamiliar billiard room and play there with its regular, we recommend that you insist on choosing some other table and, of course, before playing, make a few test shots on it in order to feel the roll of the table, the recoil of the sides, the width of the pockets and etc.
Behind the ball
When playing back in games where shots are made only with your own ball, it is difficult to overestimate the value of placing the cue ball directly behind one of the object balls. This can achieve two goals at once: firstly, the space for the opponent’s shot is significantly reduced, and secondly, if the opponent decides to hit in the opposite direction from the interfering ball, setting up the bridge will be extremely inconvenient for him. Most players greatly overestimate their ability to play over the ball and are more likely to make a mistake. If you yourself find yourself in such a situation, then it is worth performing a conservative blow, in which a possible error is practically excluded.
Never try to add a side spin when playing over the ball as the spin will be strong and unpredictable.
Gaming insurance
When playing Eight Ball, when one of your balls is near the pocket, try not to pocket it right away. This ball may be easy to pot, but it becomes even more valuable if you don't pot it. Firstly, it blocks your opponent’s pocket, and secondly, since the ball is near the pocket, it will not be difficult for you to pocket it at any time, which allows you to take the cue ball to almost any point on the table after hitting it. And, most importantly, this position of the ball will protect you in case of problems with the continuation of the series. Often the ball can solve a situation that would be difficult (or dangerous) with any other shots, for example, breaking a pile or bringing the cue ball to a strictly defined place for the next shot. In addition, the opponent will have to work hard to “cover up” your blow. So keep the ball near the pocket as long as possible.
How to warm up
Ideally, you should have plenty of time to warm up before each game of a competition, but this is usually not the case in reality, so you will need to develop a special set of exercises that will allow you to quickly get into the rhythm of potting balls.
Moreover, each player should develop his own personal set.
It's best to start with a few very simple shots and test your stance, bridge and shot as well as how the cue ball reacts - this will help build your confidence. Then try some longer, more difficult shots to test your game form. If you are unfamiliar with the table you are going to play on or other playing conditions, then try a couple of slow rolls and take a few shots from the board to test the playing characteristics of the equipment. Finish your warm-up with a few more easy shots, keeping you in good spirits and in a game-like mood for the upcoming match.
Training the cue ball in place
There is a good way to practice shots in which the cue ball remains in place after contact with someone else's ball. Place the object ball diagonally on the table about two diamonds away from the corner pocket. Then place the cue ball approximately one diamond away from the object ball so that there is a straight line between the balls and the pocket. The blow should be made strictly in the center of your own ball and in a straight line to the center of someone else’s. Repeat this until you are able to pocket all the balls in a row without the cue ball freezing in place after hitting the object ball. The cue ball should not rotate in place, roll forward or roll back - only freeze tightly. After you have mastered this shot well, start moving your ball back at a distance of about one diamond each time. The further the cue ball gets away from the object ball, the harder you will have to hit it and the more screw you need to apply to the cue ball so that it continues to freeze in place after contact with the object ball. The cue ball in place shot is one of the most important playing techniques in pool because it ensures that your ball is completely positioned after impact.
Strategy for playing "Nine"
This may seem trivial, but when playing Nine, it is very important to constantly monitor the location of the ninth ball. Games are often lost when a player, trying to perform a difficult shot, makes a mistake and leaves his opponent with a simple combination for the ninth ball “from hand”. Every time you doubt that there is no mistake in a shot, think whether it will not be easier for your opponent to finish the game with a combination on the “nine”.
Stop the videotape
Here's a great way to improve your pool thinking by using professional videotapes. Before each shot, press the pause button on the VCR and think about what you would do if you were the player on the screen.
You have the advantage of unlimited time to think about each shot. Once you have made your decision, continue watching the videotape and find out what a professional did in this case. If your choice coincides with the actions of a professional, great. If not, have you considered hitting a professional shot as an option? Was the professional's choice better than yours?
Of course, the best option for him will not always be the best option for you, given the difference in gaming technique and experience. However, if you find that your choices often don't match those of a professional, then it's worth considering a new way of thinking about your game.
First game of the match
Psychologically, it is very important to win the first game of the match: if you do this, your opponent will begin to “break down” psychologically and will only think about how to win two whole games in order to take the lead in the match. In addition, the opponent is afraid of losing the second game, since in this case the gap between you will become even more significant. So you should gather your strength and try to win the initial stage in order to control the psychological side of the match.
Check the pyramid
It never hurts to check a pyramid before breaking it. Depending on the condition of the balls, cloth and pyramid triangle in the pool hall you visit, you may not be able to set up an absolutely perfect pyramid, but the front three balls should definitely fit tightly. Many players think that they will be perceived as overly pedantic if they constantly worry about the state of the pyramid before breaking, and then unnecessary conversations will follow. However, if you feel that your opponent at the table is constantly placing balls inappropriately for you, then it is worth testing the pyramids in a row in several games and insisting that your opponent restore them to normal before you break them. Soon your opponent will begin to set up the pyramid properly, if only to avoid unnecessary problems.
Lifting weights
Tiger Woods, David Duval and others revolutionized the world of professional golf through their rigorous strength training programs that allowed them to hit the golf ball further than previously imagined. Golf and billiards have many similarities, but the strength requirements are different. Anyone who can lift a three-liter can of milk has enough strength to make any important shot in billiards.
If you are trying to “pump up” your arm muscles in order to improve your billiards game, you may encounter two problems. If you have been lifting heavily in the hours before picking up the cue, your muscles will be tired and shaky and you may not feel the impact. Secondly, over time, your muscular strength will reach such a level that you will have to limit the force of your blow. You'll think you're making a quiet shot, but it'll turn out to be a medium one, and a medium one will actually be able to split the balls in half!
We are not discouraging you from participating in health programs, but if playing billiards is a priority for you, then be careful and “pump up” your biceps and triceps in moderation.
When playing back, when the opponent has only one ball left on the table, standing near the board far from the pockets, one of the best defensive moves is to place the cue ball strictly in front of the ball, perpendicular to the board, as close to the ball as possible. This achieves two things: first of all, the enemy’s range of available cutting angles is sharply reduced - sometimes they simply become impossible. Secondly, if your opponent plans a double, then in conditions where the ball and the cue ball are close to each other and next to the board, a miss is likely. This defensive position is especially good on the short side, where the enemy will also have an inconvenient point of support.
Most players overestimate their ability to play from an awkward position, and your opponent is more likely to make a mistake.
And if you yourself find yourself in this position, do not try to make an effective shot - this will only help your opponent. No screws or doublets!
With a very soft hit just above the center, roll the cue ball towards the ball, which is not far from the edge, so as not to break the perpendicular, but give the ball enough energy to touch the edge. Perhaps the ball, bouncing off the board, will quietly hit the cue ball again and push it further away, which is not desirable, but not so scary. Try to place the balls side by side and perpendicular, closer to the board and away from the pockets. Continue this tactic if necessary. Ideally, the ball and cue ball will be close to each other perpendicular. The opponent will be the first to lose patience, play in the pocket and miss the stand, or make a foul on the missed balls. But be careful - the perpendicular should not pass near the pockets.
Good grip
Although many players have success with non-standard grips, it is more reliable and comfortable to practice the simple classic way. If you hold the cue too tightly, you will not be able to relax your hand enough at the right moment to make a soft, measured stroke. If you hold it barely, you won't be able to hit with enough force.
Many experts agree that the ideal grip is when the cue is between the fingers, rather than cupped on both sides, with the wrist extended from the elbow and forearm. For shots that do not require a backdrop, it is a good idea to hold the cue so that your elbow forms a right angle with where the cue contacts the cue ball.
Balance risk and consequences
When playing pool, you will often encounter situations in which the game requires an accurate comparison of acceptable risk and possible consequences. For example, you are not completely sure that the next ball will play.
At the same time, you also do not find opportunities for reliable wagering, which would give one hundred percent putty.
What to do here - try to pocket the ball or win back? To have another argument for choosing the final solution, evaluate the strength of your opponent.
At first glance, you might think that you should take less risks when playing against a strong opponent - he will probably use any mistake you make to his advantage. Based on this, one would assume that roleplaying would be the right choice. But in fact, in the situation under consideration, it would be more correct to do the opposite. A player who is significantly stronger than us will most likely not give you other opportunities to make a shot. A strong player usually plays according to his own plan and often does not even pay attention to how you play. A poorly executed playback by us will not stop a strong opponent, and in this case it will not matter whether you missed a risky shot into the pocket or made an ineffective playback. If a strong player has the opportunity to finish the game with a cue or, after playing a couple of balls, to completely cover you up, he will do so. By choosing to win back in the situation under consideration and doing it unsuccessfully, you will miss the small but only real chance to pocket the ball and continue the streak, and in return you will not receive anything.
On the contrary, when you are playing against a weak or equal opponent, you should not risk much, since a weak opponent will make mistakes more than once and give you the opportunity to finish the game according to your plan. You can afford to act conservatively: win back, and, most likely, even after not very brilliant wagering, you will get a chance to continue playing, unless you inadvertently make a very big mistake when playing back.
The main thing is a good foundation
Practicing fundamental skills may not seem like much fun, but no matter how much you want to avoid it, without a good stance, bridge, and grip, you will play without consistency, even if you learn all sorts of advanced tricks and tricks.
Take the time and effort to push yourself to the limits of your fundamental skills, and always return to practicing your fundamental skills when you experience a sharp and unexpected decline.
One of the best exercises is long straight shots, so your ability to feel and see the cutting angle will not be compensated for and any carelessness and imprecision will be magnified a thousand times.
Phil Capelle developed 12 ways to improve your game:
If your game is a little off track, you can often quickly get it back on track by paying attention to one of the elements that make up the basic fundamentals of the technique. You can focus on techniques that have worked well in the past or on something new. Over time, you will develop a list of key points that will help you get your game back to a high level.
1. Loosen your grip on the cue, holding it more relaxed and loose. One of the most common mistakes is excessive tightness in the hand holding the cue. This disadvantage does not allow you to feel the size, that is, the force of the blow, and deprives you of accuracy. To prevent this from happening, try loosening your grip. Relax your punching arm and let it hang naturally at your side. Bend your fingers and rest the cue on the middle phalanges. Do not squeeze your fingers, otherwise the cue will be tightly clamped. The thumb only serves to support the cue.
2. Correct stance. To achieve near-mechanical stability, you should approach each shot almost identically (however, there are some shots that require a special stance). Taking the same approach to each shot helps you feel more comfortable, thereby eliminating the need to adjust and adjust your stance each time. In addition, you can get rid of the habit of striking if something in the stance does not suit you.
3. The exact location of the cue. It is very easy to make a mistake by placing the cue a couple of millimeters to the left or right of the intended point. In fact, many players suffer from a slight visual impairment, which is compensated by using the side screw when they hit the vertical axis of the cue ball. Try to be more careful about the placement of the sticker when placing the wrist rest at the cue ball.
4. Very smooth strike. While in your stance, think only about making the shot as smooth as you can imagine.
5. Make the movement with your hand only. Unwanted body movements, even the smallest ones, can negatively affect the results of your shots. To avoid this mistake, focus on the movement of your hand. Before hitting the cue ball, only the part of the arm below the elbow should move.
6. Use additional warm-up movements.
If you tend to rush your punches, it may help to use a couple of extra swings of your arm before you punch. You will focus on the object ball, feel the force of the shot and the movement of a properly positioned cue (the cue glides as if on rails).
However, everything should be treated with caution and not overdo it, because delaying the blow leads to distraction. Impact time must be limited.
7. Slow down your strike. It's amazing how sometimes a series of smooth warm-up movements ends with a rough slap on the cue ball during the final swing. The reason lies in the “impact impulse” that accumulates during the transition from the backward movement of the striking hand to the forward movement. To solve this problem, consciously slow down this transition phase of the final swing movement. Some players go further by making a noticeable pause before hitting. Try to make a smooth, accelerated movement of your hand so that maximum speed and force are achieved at the moment the cue touches the cue ball, and not at the beginning of the hand movement.
8. Look at the object ball. Slow and smooth hitting gives you enough time to move your eyes from the cue ball to the object ball. You may sometimes want to look closely at the object ball on your final swing to keep your focus on the target.
9. Feel the contact of the sticker with the cue ball. It's very easy to get so used to hitting the cue ball that the real feeling of the hit becomes dulled, and this is the element on which all your previous efforts were directed.
You can learn a lot about your swing and find answers to questions about cue ball behavior if you focus on the “sticker feel” of your swing.
What was the blow like? Was it a dull, dull sound, or did the sticker, meeting the cue ball, sound loud and clear?
10. Lower your elbow after hitting the cue ball. After the blow, the elbow should drop while the arm moves forward so that the follow-up is complete and unrestricted. This will ensure a free, unfettered strike and complete the follow-up. In addition, this promotes straight-line movement of the cue during and after impact.
11. Do direct follow-up. You're probably thinking that it doesn't matter where your cue is pointing as long as the cue ball has already been hit. However, inadequate support can affect the moment of impact or earlier, thereby leading to disaster. Besides, you don't want your picture-perfect shot to end up loose, do you? Try to follow the cue strictly along the aiming line. Pause after following, as if you were posing for a photograph, and check that your cue is exactly on the line.
12. Stay in your stance. Try to stay in your stance until the object ball falls into the pocket. This will cure you of the dangerous jack-in-the-box syndrome, that is, jumping up prematurely when making a shot, and will help you keep your eyes on the target prematurely. Please note that this element is associated with performing the movement only with the hand (point 5).
David Sapolis notes
Ten Bad Habits That Prevent You from Playing a Game
Many players believe that they are simply unlucky or that sometimes situations arise on the table that do not allow them to make a game with a cue. The real reason for this is the bad habits that develop in us over time. There are 10 bad habits, and everyone acquires some of them at one time or another and uses them unconsciously. Bad habits are the result of bad decisions. It is also a result of laziness. We try to find an easier path, without obstacles, thereby avoiding development at all costs. These habits originate in the most remote and inaccessible parts of your game, and therefore it often seems impossible to identify the symptoms and cure the disease. But, as you know, nothing is impossible - there are no hopeless situations. When faced with such problems, we should not remain at a loss. Instead of saying “I can’t because,” learn to say “okay, how can I?” Remember: we don’t control bad habits, they control us! We have the power to replace bad habits with good ones and learn to do the right thing every time!
Bad habit #1
Show of force during robbery
"Never sacrifice precision for strength." Of course, we all want to break a few balls, but the reality is that you can continue your streak even if you only pot one ball. There is no rule according to which you need to pot two or three balls from a break - one is enough. To achieve this, you do not need to try to “tear the pyramid to smithereens.” Why? When you break too hard, a lot of bad things happen: the cue ball either flies off the table or finds one of the pockets. This will not help you in any way, especially when there is an open position on the table and the opponent has the ball in his hand.
It’s not fun to watch such a picture from your chair.
Many players have a “fad” about powerful robbery, as if they look like a kind of macho at the table. Of course, three or four balls rapidly flying into the pockets after a break is an exciting sight, but if there is no control of the cue ball and “penny”, your chances of finishing the game are slim. Why? Not only do you need to pot the break ball, but you also need to have a shot at the next lowest numbered ball. Playing at a new level means that we reject the hope of a lucky break.
Many of us find ourselves in the grip of euphoria when we have just won a game and are breaking the pyramid in the next one. We want to knock the spirit out of the balls before our partner raises the triangle. We are already bent over while he sets up the pyramid. Stop doing this!
This will only fuel your impulse and force you to hastily strike. Wait for the balls to be installed, inspect the pyramid and then proceed to perform the approach to the table. A good way to stay calm until the pyramid is set is to hold the cue ball in the hand you are setting the wrist rest with. Staying in a standing position at this time contributes to the stiffness of your muscles and reaction. Remember: to control what happens on the table, we first have to control what happens in our heads.
Now let's dispel the myth that strength is not so important during robbery - accuracy is important! Over time, you will notice that by trying to achieve more control than strength, you will pocket the ball more often. Why is this happening? The fewer objects flying around the table, the greater the chance that the ball will fall into the pocket.
How many times have you hit a break ball and found yourself without a follow-up shot? Probably more than once. You can break this habit in your game. David Sapolis is of the opinion that if the balls are broken with great force during a break, they tend to first disperse towards the sides, creating the illusion of a good break.
As the second passes, the balls move around the table at different speeds, eventually crowding back into the center of the table or nearby. What happens to a ball that comes into contact with the board at high speed?
It hits the side and goes to the other side - this happens until the ball stops. Often it stops where it started, or creates a cluster with a couple of other balls. For example, let's imagine that you are collecting a game and are now hitting the fourth ball. While you are trying to pocket a ball and get to the next one, how many balls should be in motion? Preferably only the cue ball (for exit) and the “four” in the pocket. What are your chances if you randomly mix other balls? Hitting the “four” in this example is no more or less important than the initial blow, that is, robbery.
If you have strength, good. Use it under supervision. If you are unable to control the force, slow down a little and you will be pleasantly surprised.
Bad habit No. 2
Incorrect vision of the position on the table
Many skills are important when playing Nine, but none is more important than the ability to see the position correctly and effectively. When you're at the table, you need to know exactly what to do. Aimless movement from ball to ball will not help here. You'll get lucky once or twice, but you won't achieve sustainable success this way. Planning is necessary for almost everything, but in this case it's good for your self-confidence (and possibly your finances if you're gambling). What is “position vision”? This is the skill and art of seeing the sequence of typical moves from shot to shot that will ultimately lead you to the winning shot on the ninth ball.
Each blow you perform is not only intended to reach the next ball, but should also help move towards the final goal - to collect a pyramid.
You can practice this skill by watching other players and by playing your own game.
What prevents us from correctly seeing the position on the table? Many factors: nervousness, concern, confusion. Some of us simply don't know what we're doing. We take a simple position for granted and end up standing at the table scratching our heads and muttering, “Holy shit?” Our brain should work like a computer, collecting "Nines", analyzing every ball on the table, highlighting the typical positions and shots required to win. Concentration is required with each blow, precise calculation of each movement. Carelessness will take us nowhere other than a chair at a table.
Bad habit No. 3
Inability to effectively deal with clusters and problem balls
This is the Achilles heel of many players. Many young players are now at a disadvantage compared to players 20-30 years ago. "Straightpool" (14.1) remains and will remain the best teacher of all games. Many of today's players have never played straight or One Pocket, and that's too bad.
Strait teaches how to knock out clusters and solve problem areas in the party. What does this have to do with The Nine? It’s very simple: clusters often form in the “Nine”, creating the appearance that it will not be possible to get to the last ball. An experienced player knows that these clusters have a dual purpose:
1) they can stop the streak of an opponent who is trying to collect a game;
2) you can take advantage of these clusters by using them as an obstacle to wagering.
But what if you are at the table and have to decide whether to win back or try to knock out a cluster? Like many other things, this is acquired through experience and training. Instead of just rolling balls around trying to make a Nine, your practice should always focus on a specific aspect of your game that you need to work on. So here, everyone has something to do regarding clusters.
Create a few and see how effectively you can hit them by hitting the lowest numbered ball. It is unwise to rely on chance or hope that our opponent will do all the dirty work for us. We want to be at the table and in control - that's how we win.
Problem balls can be divided into two categories:
1) the key ball in the game;
2) the ball that has the least chance of being pocketed.
In any case, these balls need to be treated properly. You may be leaving things to chance with the key ball. This bad habit goes hand-in-hand with position vision, and the problem can be solved with proper planning. If you are weak in this area of the game, a more experienced player will definitely take advantage of it.
Bad habit No. 4
Catchy complex exits
This mistake is perhaps the most common among beginners and intermediate players. Some people like the cue ball to go from side to side, "screwed in" to the limit. Understand that there is such a problem as excessive manipulation of the cue ball. Golden rule: “Do what is easiest.” If you can make an exit through one side, use one, not two or three.
You are at the table to win, not to impress the crowd. If you want to entertain them, practice some trick moves. Nine is a game that is best played in the simplest way possible.
Bad habit No. 5
Indecisiveness
Indecisiveness is a psychological defect caused by the balls not behaving the way you would like them to. We start to tighten up and play back instead of potting the ball. We lose confidence in our ability to make good decisions. Pool is a game based on players making the right decisions and performing the actions correctly. Take away this ability from a player, and he will be completely helpless.
There is such a thing as a “game from the subconscious”.
Pocketing a ball is an action external to consciousness. That is, the task is external, and the thoughts aimed at performing the action are internal. Internal thoughts are the driving force for the actions necessary to complete the task: looking at the cue ball and the object ball, aiming, stance, positioning the cue on the wrist rest, grip of the cue, warm-up movements, touching the cue stick with the cue ball, tracking, watching the cue ball makes contact with the object ball as the ball hits the intended spot, and exits the stance to prepare for the next shot. This does not mean that you need to diligently prepare to do all the above elements, because they have already become a habit and you do them naturally. Many people focus on them while experiencing nervousness or jitters. Many of us become indecisive by “rethinking” decisions we’ve already made. We must strive to make a final decision before taking a stance before striking. If you think about the exit trajectory or other strike options while already in the stance, this has the most negative effect.
Make a plan and execute it. Step back from your mind and, at the same time, learn to identify your opponent's indecisiveness. By showing your own confidence, you can finally put the squeeze on your opponent.
Bad habit number 6
Hasty activity
Playing quickly can be a lot of fun, but it can cause a lot of things to go wrong.
First of all, this concerns the ability to see the position.
We are so busy laying balls at the speed of light that we forget to pay due attention to position or introduce an imbalance in the preparation for the shot.
The most common mistake of this kind is hastily jumping up at the end of the blow instead of remaining in the stance. We become careless and end up making a small mistake on a simple shot we should have scored.
Haste will not give advantages - it entails carelessness. Hastily completed work is not the best option.
Bad habit No. 7
Disability
Good masonry is very important. It doesn't matter how good you are at positional play, sooner or later you will be faced with the need to pot a difficult ball, calling on all your abilities. Everyone would like to pot all the balls with simple straight shots, but this is not always the case, so we must be prepared and know, in particular, how to pot a ball on the board or a double. Here, either victory or inglorious defeat is possible.
Bad habit No. 8
Losing control of the cue ball
This is a psychological as well as a physical mistake caused by focusing on one task (pocketing the ball) instead of two (scoring and making an exit). Controlling the cue ball is essential: contrary to popular belief, the cue ball doesn't do anything other than what you make it do. It is much easier to gain control over the cue ball than over your own mind. Our body and mind must work in unison so that we can perform at our best under pressure (see Bad Habit #10).
Bad habit No. 9
Self-confidence
This habit stems from a lack of respect for the difficulty of the game. We know that everyone's balls roll the same way. The biggest problem with self-confidence is that, being in this state, we deny this statement, starting to rely more on ignorance than on our capabilities. We try to pot the most difficult balls and make difficult exits. We lose focus and all our actions become nothing more than pompous stupidity. Carelessness is an integral part of self-confidence - remember this above all.
Bad habit number 10
Jitters
Jitters occur when the brain is so agitated that it is unable to communicate more effectively with the body, thereby affecting normal motor function. The brain becomes overloaded due to increased feelings of joy or pressure, and we do exactly what we don’t want to do, we experience jitters. The task of hitting a nine into the corner is considered an external task for the brain. When a player is in that rare state of confidence that he cannot miss, his attention is almost always entirely directed outward. This is why it can be hard to remember what happened as you assembled one batch after another. In this case, we say that the player is acting “from the subconscious”. When experiencing jitters, we play “out of consciousness.” The wires become overloaded and too much information flows from the brain to the striking hand. The “wires” begin to smoke, and... we make a mistake.
Ten Good Habits to Help You Get a Party Together
To combat bad habits, Sapolis offers 10 good habits that will allow you to pick up a batch more often. These are not absolute panaceas, but they focus on positive qualities that take the game to the next level.
Good Habit #1
Good robbery
This is very important: if we want something good to happen, we must plan and prepare for it. Therefore, when robbing, pay attention to the following points:
1. Stay in your stance when breaking
Jumping up and sudden body movements during a robbery increase the power (but not the strength) of the robbery. It's just mechanics, but remember that when you hit, the only moving element should be your hand. If the head is raised, it affects the accuracy of the shot. The same is true for the break: you can increase the length of the follow-up on impact by taking a grip a little further than usual. Increasing your follow-up, as opposed to putting your whole body into the shot, maintains accuracy and increases cue ball speed. By being in a break stance, you will be able to control the cue ball more often, leaving it exactly in the middle of the table, because this way you focus more on accuracy. A good way to determine if you are staying in your stance after a shot is the position of the cue stick at the end of the break. If it's behind the shoulder of your hitting hand, there's a good chance you'll get up before the sticker even touches the cue ball.
It is better to increase escort during robbery.
2. Never sacrifice precision for strength.
When breaking, you need to hit the right point on the first ball, otherwise the cue ball will pass tangent to the penny and go on a journey around the table, which will very likely end in a pocket. Excess force also causes the cue ball to jump off the table.
We must achieve strong, but not powerful, robbery. There are different concepts of the word "blow". In one case, in relation to a pool, this is a single continuous movement or a series of them. In another case, it is a collision between two objects. Think of the stroke not as a collision where you are trying to destroy an object, but as the movement of a bow along the strings of a violin or like stroking a kitten. Using some force is fine, but only to the extent you can control.
Precision is perfection. Precise contact between the sticker and the cue ball is necessary to ensure that the cue ball hits the object ball accurately. Anything that is “outside of neat” will create problems. If we try to control all the force contained in the punching hand, we tend to clamp down. If we tighten our grip, the striking hand becomes tense and the smoothness of the movement is replaced by sharpness. You wouldn't use a fire hose to water the flowers in your garden, would you? There will be too much strength and power to complete the task - this is deadly. The same applies to robbery.
Good Habit #2
Correct vision of the position after each blow
It is important to correctly understand the position not only before the strike, but also to rethink it after each strike. As we move towards the last ball, the situation on the table may change, thereby forcing us to change our game plan, say, due to a previously made positional error. You may choose another way to analyze a position, but this is the most effective for most. Start by identifying which balls can and cannot be pocketed from the center of the table - this will help you identify the key balls in the game that you need to pay more attention to. The cue ball should be kept close to the center of the table unless otherwise necessary.
Most professional players can play a game from start to finish. Many beginning players struggle to imagine how the position will develop in the future. It's not as difficult as you might think, so if you're a beginner, don't get discouraged or discouraged by this part of the game. Be patient and everything will work out for you. In the meantime, after the break, the cue ball is either located or not in the center of the table. If the cue ball is in a different place, try to get it to the center as quickly as possible, because this is where we will start analyzing the position. This is the first rule.
Once you have determined the route you are going to take the cue ball to the center, think about which ball or balls cannot be played from there. For example, the “four” ended up on the short side, and therefore a certain cutting angle on the “three” is needed to reach the “four”.
When making a figure four, be sure to maintain the cutting angle so that you can return to the center of the table again. We can only allow the cue ball to leave the center if necessary and try to return it back at the first opportunity. The cue ball must remain in the center of the table for the following reasons:
1) from there you can count on an acceptable hit;
2) it may be easier to maintain the required cutting angle;
3) there are no pockets there.
It's quite simple. When identifying the key ball of the game, deal with it from the very first hit. After each hit, think about the following:
1. Which balls cannot be pocketed from the center of the table?
2. Can I return to the center after potting the next ball?
3. Should I leave the center of the table? If so, can I go back there?
The center rule applies to all types of games, but in Nine it is especially important because cutting angles matter so much.
Good Habit #3
In a fashionable way, quickly deal with problem balls and clusters
Understanding how to use clusters to your advantage is one thing, knowing how to effectively knock out clusters is something completely different. The determining factor in this situation is knowing what needs to be done. Remember that just rolling balls is useless? “I need to train what I don’t know, instead of what I already know.”
By becoming familiar with clusters and problem balls, you will know when to knock out a cluster and when to leave it alone. Knowing these two points, you have already won half the battle. Knowing the right time to roleplay is one thing, but executing it correctly and effectively is something else. During the training process, you need to find out your strengths and weaknesses in this aspect. In this case, you will be able to plan a strategy for playing against opponents who adhere to a certain style. By leaving the cluster “for later,” you are simply delaying the inevitable.
By handing over the decision to your opponent, you give him the opportunity to seize the initiative: he can knock out the cluster, lay down the ball and finish the game. He can also bounce back well, which we wouldn’t want either. We wouldn't want anything that takes away our ability to control what happens on the table. Even if you don't see a way to hit the balls, try to win back. Different situations require individual solutions, but remember: we should always strive to choose an option that will play for us and not for the opponent.
Good Habit #4
Use the easiest and most efficient exit routes
Play simply! Always follow the table center rule. Keep the cue ball in the center and you will find yourself getting into the ball more and more easily. Use the easiest route possible to exit. Directing the cue ball around the table when you could achieve the same thing by braking it against the side with a reverse screw is quite stupid and reckless. The fewer manipulations you make with the cue ball, the less chance that something will go wrong in the game.
Good Habit #5
Make the right, informed decisions
Always make a decision that leads you to victory. Shots made as a result of an emotional outburst - little thought or no thought at all - will quickly send you to the lower bracket! There are two ways to move towards the ninth ball - the right way and the wrong way.
Always look for the right path. It is always there, you just need to find it. Speaking of bad habits, we found that indecision occurs when the balls do not behave the way you want. Some players try to act on the principle of “something will work out.” Many people start the race for the “nine”, either in euphoria or out of despair. We reject reasonable decisions, become completely helpless and can only obey fate. If luck is not on your side, you must be prepared for it. Many famous players always expect luck to be on their side, and when it doesn't quite work out that way, they fall apart.
If you've read this book this far, you know that you should have a plan in place in case events don't go your way. Be able to identify the beginning of this process and begin to correct the situation immediately. The longer you do not resist circumstances, the worse it can become later.
The key point is concentration. If you focus on various negative things, more negativity can happen. If you try to focus on the positive, positive things will start to happen. As they say, what goes around comes around.
Good Habit #6
Everything has its time
What else can you add? Rushing the game makes you prone to mistakes. Plan every strike carefully, as well as every exit. Slow down the pace of thoughts and actions.
Good Habit #7
Be a good sniper!
Knowing how to pot balls from different angles can help in planning your exit. This is where exercise will serve you well and make it worth the time! There are two scenarios in which your opponent can return to the table:
a) you dropped the cue ball into a pocket;
b) you missed.
A variety of fouls on your part can also bring your opponent back to the table, but the two mentioned above predominate. The only way to win in pool is to pocket the balls.
Good Habit #8
Take full control of the cue ball
An excellent example of impeccable cue ball control is the game of the great Bayali Hall. In his twenty-five years of playing experience, one can recall only a few times when he lost control of the cue ball. He made the impossible look very easy. His main rule was “stay on the line and don’t stand in front of an obstacle.” You will not get anywhere by relying only on chance. You always need to know before you hit where the cue ball will go. If you don't understand how the cue ball does what it does and why it does this, put this book down until you do. Without cue ball control, it will be very difficult for you to rise to the top. Do a variety of exercises regularly. Boring? Yes.
Tiring? Yes. But you will never regret the work done that brought you to the next level. It all pays off in the end.
Good Habit #9
Respect the difficulty of the game
The game can work in your favor, but at the same time cause you trouble if you are not careful. An insufficiently scrupulous attitude always leads to one kind of problem or another. What we mean by respecting the complexity of a game is that we shouldn't think we know everything about it or that we "can't lose." As soon as you assume that you know everything about the game, you become overconfident. We must maintain the ability to learn, because in the game part of self-confidence is carelessness. We tend to rely on our own self more than our skills. We throw caution to the wind in certain situations and lose the game.
The awareness of the need to concentrate carefully “keeps us in line.” No one is immune from mistakes, but when we are under the influence of overconfidence, we look for excuses, blaming everything and everyone around us, except our own carelessness.
Think about it: if you are in the lower bracket, then whose fault are you there?!
Good Habit #10
Relax and enjoy
If jitters are caused by stiffness, then unmistakable play is caused by relaxation. Pool is a game, and games are meant to be fun. If you are not enjoying yourself playing pool, end the game. Playing pool can be a lot of fun. If you're tense, indecisive, and afraid you might lose, chances are you're not having much fun. Defeat is part of victory. If you lose in a tough fight, be proud that you have found a “new weak point” in yourself and now you have something to work on in training. These habits are not a panacea; their benefits depend on your skill level.
We invite you to familiarize yourself with the rules of the new game, which was invented by leading Ukrainian players.
Rules of the game in CLUSTER
1. EQUIPMENT
1.1 The game is played on a table with dimensions
playing field length 3569mm (+/- 13mm),
playing field width 1778mm (+/- 13mm),
table height to the top edge of the side from 850 to 880mm
balls 60-68mm
2. TERMS
2.1 Equipment
The midfield line is the line dividing the playing field into two equal halves. It is applied parallel to the side of the pyramid.
Pyramid side - a short side at half of the pyramid arrangement.
The pyramid point is a mark in the center of half the pyramid field.
House - the playing field between the side of the house and the house line
House side - a short side located on half of the house
House line is a line drawn parallel to the side of the house and dividing the half of the playing field where the house is located into two equal parts.
Pocket attack zone markings - marks placed on the sides to determine the pocket attack zone. It is applied in this way: the ball is placed in the pocket as close as possible to the point of impact, the second is placed touching the first ball and the side. The mark is applied to the board along the edge of the second ball perpendicular to the board. Likewise on the second side.
Passive zone - the playing field between an imaginary line drawn from the center of the short side to the center of the middle pocket and the long side adjacent to it.)
2.2 Game
Cluster - a group consisting of at least three balls located
at a distance from each other less than the diameter of the ball. Ball standing
at a distance less than the diameter of the ball from the cluster, is also part of
cluster.
The game ball is one of the balls involved in the scoring that remains on the playing field if the re-order rule has not been applied.
Object ball (alien) - a ball that the player hits with the cue ball
Cue ball (own ball) - the ball on which the player strikes with a cue sticker.
A pocket attack is a shot that aims to pocket the ball.
Cluster lining - transfer of movement to two or more component balls
cluster.
Wagering is a blow aimed not at pocketing the ball, but at complicating the game for the opponent by following the rules of winning back
The attack zone of a pocket is the pocket and the adjacent sides up to the marks applied to them.
The player at the table is the player who currently has the right to strike. The right to strike passes to the opponent after three to five seconds have passed after the ball has not been pocketed and all the balls have stopped.
Passive attack - a blow in which the ball is not pocketed, but:
the corner pocket entered the attack zone after touching the adjacent side
after entering the attack zone of the corner pocket there was no contact with the second side adjacent to it
the attack of the middle pocket with the object ball was from the passive zone
3.1 Introduction
The goal of the game is to be the first to pot eight balls within these rules.
3.2 Ball placement
Fifteen white balls are set up in a pyramid with the top at the pyramid point and the bottom parallel to the side of the pyramid.
3.3 Kickoff play
a) The players simultaneously make a house stroke along the imaginary longitudinal center line of the table.
b) The balls must touch the side of the pyramid once and return back to the side of the house without crossing the imaginary longitudinal center line of the table.
c) The draw is won by the one who fulfilled all the conditions and whose ball stopped closer to the side of the house.
d) If it is impossible to determine which ball stopped closer, the draw
repeats itself.
e) The winner of the rally can make the initial kick himself or give it to his opponent.
f) In each of the subsequent games, the right of first strike is used alternately
3.4 Start of the game
a) The game begins when the cue ball crosses the home line as a result of the kickoff.
The intersection of lines by a ball is considered to be the intersection of its center.
c) Kick-off - performed by a player from any place at home.
3.5 Rules of the game
a) The game is played by alternate strikes by the player at the table, in accordance with the rules of attack or wagering.
b) If the player at the table pockets the ball in accordance with the attack rules, he receives the right to a bonus shot.
c) If a player does not fulfill a condition of the attack rule, he must fulfill the condition of the wagering rule.
3.6 Attack rules
a) An attack is counted as a hit with the cue ball on an object ball, which results in the ball falling into the pocket (effective attack), or, if the ball did not fall, but the ball hit the attack zone of the pocket (non-effective attack).
b) In the first attack, during the next approach to the table, the player has the opportunity to choose any cue ball and any object ball.
c) Starting from the second and all subsequent attacks in the player’s approach to the table must be carried out with the participation of the playing ball.
d) If the object ball and cue ball are pocketed during the shot, the next attack is carried out according to the rule of the first.
e) If during a successful attack the cluster was knocked out, the next attack is carried out according to the rule of the first.
f) Any participation of third balls in the attack must be announced.
g) If more than two balls were involved in the attack and the playing ball was not reordered, then:
When pocketing someone else's ball, the play ball will be the cue ball
when the cue ball is pocketed, the first ball touched by the cue ball
3.7 Rule for re-ordering a game ball
a) Any ball on the playing field can become a playing ball. To do this, the player must fulfill the following conditions:
Before hitting, announce the ball number out loud and wait for confirmation from the judge that the reorder has been accepted. The referee must repeat the ball number out loud.
when attacking, with the game ball directly or through the third balls or more, touch the declared ball
b) If the declared ball is not touched, the playing ball does not change
3.8 Wagering rules
a) A hit with the cue ball on an object ball, as a result of which one of the balls touches two sides, and the other rolls the line of the middle of the field, or one of the balls fulfills both conditions, is counted as wagering.
b) When the movement is transferred to the third balls, the fulfillment of the wagering conditions by them is also counted.
c) The order in which the conditions are fulfilled does not matter
3.9 End of game
The game ends after three to five seconds have passed after the eighth ball has been pocketed in accordance with the rules and all remaining balls on the playing field have stopped.
4.1 Situations in which a penalty ball is awarded
a) When striking the cue ball with both feet lifted off the floor
b) For any touch of the balls not with the cue stick by the player at the table.
c) For touching the cue stick with the cue ball more than once when striking (punch, draw, double strike).
d) For a strike in which the conditions of attack or recoupment were not met.
e) For delivering a subsequent blow before the previous one is completed.
f) If, as a result of a strike or other actions of a player at the table, the ball leaves the playing field without being pocketed.
A ball that has left the field is marked in the same way as a free kick.
g) For scoring without the participation of a game ball, starting from the second ball in the series
h) For a passive attack
Penalty balls are placed on the point of the pyramid. If the point is occupied, move to the nearest free space along the imaginary longitudinal center line of the table, towards the side of the pyramid. If there is no free space from the point to the side of the pyramid, the ball is placed towards the side of the house.
Balls that were pocketed in a penalty situation are not counted and are placed on the field like free kicks.
5. Play after a penalty is imposed (announced)
After a penalty has been announced to the player and the penalty ball has been placed on the field, the right to strike passes to the opponent. The player in such a situation has the right to choose:
take the right to strike
transfer the right to strike to the opponent