Drainage scheme around the house: the nuances of designing drainage systems. Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house How to make a drainage system around the house

When designing a house, it is advisable to immediately think about the need to install a drainage system around it. If the house has already been built, and the damp basement does not make it possible to live comfortably, then the drainage system around the house with your own hands should be done later. There are several types of drainage systems, and each of them has its own characteristics and characteristics, so all of them will be discussed in this article.

Do-it-yourself wall drainage of the foundation

Drainage is a system of pipes that are laid in specially dug trenches with a constant slope that ensures the drainage of water into the water intake. When soil moisture exceeds the allowable limits, excess moisture enters the perforated pipes and flows into the well (read: “Do-it-yourself drainage wells - how to do it right”).

What does the scheme of the drainage system around the house look like, and how to make a really high-quality design?

The first step is to conduct a geological exploration of the site, determining the following indicators:

• type of soil on the site;
• maximum groundwater level;
• the highest and lowest points of the site.

These data must be applied to the site plan along with schematic images of all objects located on it: trees, buildings and the building itself. Drains must be laid along the perimeter of the building, and the distance from the house should be at least one meter, and the drainage depth around the house should be at least 30 cm higher than the depth of the foundation.

In addition, a constant slope must be observed, the value of which must be at least 3 cm per meter of pipeline length. The catchment well is always located at the lowest point of the site, and it is into it that all the collected water flows. By following these rules, a pipe laying map is created, on which the points where inspection drainage wells will be installed are also plotted. There is an opinion that it is possible to combine a storm sewer system with drainage, but experts do not advise doing so.

Preparing to work around the house

When the work plan is ready, you can proceed to more material tasks: the purchase of material and the preparation of tools.

Drainage pipes are produced from different materials: there are products made of plastic, asbestos cement, ceramics. However, it is plastic products that deservedly received the greatest distribution, the characteristics of which are excellent for creating drainage structures (read: “How to make drainage around the house correctly”).

The diameter of the pipes should be in the range of 100-110 mm. If the pipes will be laid to a great depth, then you should make sure that they are as strong as possible. Experts do not advise using flexible plastic pipes, since it is difficult to observe the slope with them.

In addition to pipes, you need to purchase additional items, the list of which includes:

• fitting;
• manholes and manhole covers for them;
• geotextile fabric.

If the building has not yet been built, then waterproofing for the foundation will come in handy, and, of course, basic construction tools will be required: shovels, a building level and a tape measure.

Now that everything is ready to go, the installation of a drainage system around the house is a matter of time. First of all, a trench is dug around the building at the required depth, the dimensions of which must correspond to those stated in the plan. The sides of the trench can be of any shape, but there is a nuance: if the soil is initially quite loose, then it makes sense to make small bevels. The width of the trench is also calculated in advance. In order to accurately observe all the necessary dimensions, you must not forget to use a tape measure and a level.

Each turn of the trench and every 30-50 meters of straight distances should be equipped with small recesses in which manholes will be installed.

If stones, hard pieces of earth and other foreign elements come across during the process of digging a ditch, they should be removed so as not to damage the pipes in the future. At the end of the earthworks, it is possible to sheathe the foundation with waterproofing, if this has not been done before.

When the previous work is completed, you can proceed directly to the creation of a drainage system. The bottom of the trench is covered with a layer of crushed stone and sand approximately 10 cm deep and compacted, after which geotextiles are laid on it. The free edges of the fabric must be wrapped on the walls in order to wrap the pipes with them in the future.

When the lining is ready, pipes are laid on it. The pipeline must run in the center of the trench. When connecting pipes, it is worth additionally coating them with silicone sealant. If the perforations on the pipes are only on one side, then it is better to place them with the holes down. It is important in the process of work not to forget about the need to install inspection and rotary wells. One of the last steps will be the installation of a catchment well. The height of the wells is determined in such a way that after completion of the work they can be easily accessed.

After completing the installation of pipes, they must be covered with a layer of crushed stone, wrapped in geotextiles and covered with earth over the entire structure, covering the top with a layer of turf.

Ring drainage system around the house

An annular drainage system around the house is needed when the house has already been built and the blind area has been equipped.

By and large, the ring drainage system is performed in the same way as the wall drainage system, but there are some differences:

• the trench should be three meters from the foundation, and all other dimensions will remain at the same level;
• when the laying of the drains is completed, they are covered with a 10-centimeter layer of rubble, and the rest of the space is filled with soil;
• trenches in this case can be decorated as an annular path directed to the drain.

Foundation Linear Drainage

Under the linear drainage understand the installation of drainage trays on the site. In addition, they can be installed around the perimeter of the building to collect and remove precipitation (read: “We do the drainage of the foundation of the house with our own hands correctly”). The efficiency of the trays can be increased by combining them with point storm water inlets and grit traps with connected drain pipes, which will make it possible to drain water directly into the collector well.

The work is carried out according to a similar plan: first, a design scheme is prepared taking into account all the objects located on the site. Then a line for laying a linear drainage system is drawn, the installation locations for storm water inlets and other structural elements are indicated. Then materials are purchased, tools are prepared, after which you can proceed directly to the construction of the drainage system.

Work will be carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. First, a trench for the trays is prepared. All the rules remain the same, but the depth should be only 10-15 cm more than the height of the tray, and the width should be 10 centimeters more.
2. When the trench is ready, a drainage well is installed, to which a sewer plastic pipe is connected, which is connected to the installation site of the first tray.
3. Now you can pour the concrete base. When it is ready, you can connect the following trays through a system of adapters and connecting elements. The system is ready, and now the water on the site will not be a problem.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house is not a problem if you approach this issue competently and meaningfully. Proper drainage will create comfort in the house and will make it possible to avoid constant flooding and flooding: the house will become a fortress that no water can break.

7. The device of the blind area around the house and the drainage system of the site

The main task of the blind area is to divert surface water from the house (from rains and melting snow) so that too much moisture does not accumulate in the soil near the foundation, which freezes in winter, “swells”, softens the soil, including unevenly, because of which the house can sit unevenly, the bearing characteristics of the soil deteriorate. The house is undesirable to leave in the winter without blind area(and it is best to insulate the blind area - read about the foundation of a shallow foundation in the section "Foundation construction"). The covering of the blind area must be waterproof, resistant to erosion by water (as a rule, concrete is poured into the base, and paving slabs are laid on top); along the perimeter of the blind area, trays (usually plastic) are mounted and rain inlets are connected to them to receive / drain water from the roof drainage system. The blind area is made with a slope from the house (2-3 cm per meter of width), the width of the blind area itself should be (according to SNiP): for sandy soils at least 70 cm, for clay soils at least 100 cm. Thickness 10 cm at the thinnest point .

Causes to drain the area may be: clay soils on which water "stands"; high groundwater level; if the site is located in a lowland, as a result of which large volumes of water flow to it; if the site is on a flat surface, water from which almost does not drain; the presence of deep structures (basement or cellar) is undesirable. When constructing a drainage system, take into account landing zones(trees, shrubs and other plantings), as well as the presence of various building structures, by the way, roads and fences (on a strip foundation) create barriers to the natural runoff of water, due to which the soil can be flooded and waterlogged.

The essence of drainage around the house / foundation is as follows. Selected upper point (one of the corners of the house, farthest from the collector well) from which to bottom point (collector well, water collector) along the perimeter of the house, drainage perforated inclined pipes. IN manhole(closest to the collector) silt accumulates at the bottom, and water, as it accumulates, overflows through the next pipe (without holes) into collector a well from which a pump or gravity is discharged into a ditch. Or water from the inspection well is diverted to the filtering well, and in it through a layer of sand and gravel goes into the ground (the filtering capacity of the soil should allow). Simplescheme: a relatively small manhole is used as a collector well, and water is drained from it under a slope into a ditch.

Basis of the drainage system serve as drainage pipes (drains) with holes for receiving water; pipes are laid in the ground and lined with crushed granite or clean gravel (sand-gravel mixture is not used, as well as crushed limestone, they “clog” pipe holes and soil voids, preventing water from penetrating into drainage pipes).

To protect crushed stone and pipes from siltation they are covered with geotextiles from all sides. If drainage is required under the house (to drain groundwater from the basement floor), then pipes are laid along the perimeter of the house with an indent of 1-2 meters from it by about half a meter below the foundation, and below the depth of soil freezing (soil heaving can change the slope of pipes, water will stagnate, pipes will clog; in the Novosibirsk region, the required depth is 2.5 meters, but pipes can be laid at a depth of one meter if the blind area is insulated). Usual diameter of drainage pipes 110 mm(like a sewer pipe). A layer of crushed stone-gravel around pipes 10-15
see fractions 20-40 mm(you can also 5-20, but more expensive). Bottom and top sand bedding is made (passes / filters water). The slope of the drainage system should be 2 cm per meter of pipe, beginning from the top point (corner of the house, farthest from the collector) and ending with the bottom point (collector well, water collector). These points are calculated at the design stage: from the highest point towards the bottom, rain, melt and groundwater is drained. organize drainage around the house is necessary during the construction of the foundation(until the pit is filled up). At the nodal "points" (every second turn of the pipe, height difference) it is necessary to install manholes, which serve for periodic flushing of drainage pipes and for the possibility of repairing the system. The end point of the drainage system is the discharge of water into a roadside ditch, or (if there is no ditch nearby, while the groundwater level short) drainage into the filtering (absorption) well, and through it into the ground.

Drainage around the house: the basics of technology, types of drainage systems and their cost

The volume and depth of the filtering well are calculated based on the permeability of the soil and the level of groundwater. The filter well is located on half a meter below drainage pipes, and to groundwater should be at least meter(The State Sanitary and Epidemiological Supervision reports: “Drainage waters are distinguished by the presence of microbial contamination and a high level of mineral salts” ... “are a source of microbial contamination ... of underground aquifers, drinking water”). A private house is not a chemical enterprise, but it is worth observing the basic measures.

If there is neither a ditch nor groundwater, then runoff can be accumulated in a sufficiently large (3-4 m3) and sealed collector well. In winter, drainage is usually not needed (ground water is low, it does not rain, the snow does not melt), and in the warm season, water from the well can be used for “technical” needs: watering lawns, bushes, beds, or washing something .

Drainage pipes come with perforation and without perforation(the latter for diverting effluents into a roadside ditch or into a filter well in order to
do not "spill" water "on the way"). There are pipes with a filter (wrapped with geo-fabric) and without a filter. Their prices are almost the same. Considering that in real conditions construction sites and rubble can be dirty, and the geofabric can be torn, it is better to use pipes with filter. Big manifold it is better to buy a ready-made plastic well. well from reinforced concrete rings you can make a larger volume, but high-quality sealing it will be much more expensive. Wherein filtering the well is made of precisely reinforced concrete rings (as in the case of sewers). Regarding the drainage of surface water and perched water, it is cheaper and more efficient to raise the level of the site and make a slope towards the ditch more before building a house than subsequently digging shallow trenches through the entire site and laying drainage pipes in the zone of soil freezing. "Pie" drainage system around the house and the depth of the trenches are calculated in such a way that “everything” fits under the level of the blind area - scheme.

How to make drainage around the house correctly

Many homeowners are interested in the question of how to arrange drainage around the house. There are several different variations of schemes that allow you to create drainage around the blind area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house. If we consider them all in detail, it becomes clear that the best option is a closed drainage system.

What materials and tools will be needed to implement such a drainage system around the house with your own hands?

The default set will look like this:

• manholes;
• drainage pipe;
• shovel;
• hacksaw.

Why do you need drainage around the house

How to make drainage around the house, and why is it needed at all? The first thing to say when it comes to drainage is that this system is not a replacement for foundation waterproofing, but only complements it. True, in areas where the groundwater level is at a high level, the drainage system is a must, and without it the house will “float” very quickly.

It is very important to take into account both the amount of precipitation on the ground and the height of the location of the site in a particular area: if there is too much precipitation, then the house will be constantly surrounded by water, and the site located in the lowland will gradually be washed away from below by soil water. In such cases, the question "why?" disappears, and the question “how to do drainage around the house?” appears.

In addition, it is important to consider these factors even before the construction of the building itself, since in this case it is much easier to build a drainage system.

Classification of drainage systems

How to make drainage around the house, even if it is not known how it is classified? There are three options for drainage systems, and each of them has its own pros and cons.

Here are the types of structures that exist:

1. open drainage. To implement this option, it is necessary to dig a wide trench around the house, and its depth should be greater than the depth of laying the foundation (read also: “We do the drainage of the foundation of the house with our own hands correctly”). The width of the ditch can be quite narrow - this is not a critical aspect, but maintaining a constant slope towards the water intake is very important, otherwise the water simply will not be able to move on. As a result, a ditch encircling the house will turn out on the site, which will have a bad effect on the aesthetic indicators of the site and can even be dangerous: falling into a hole, the depth of which is comparable to human growth, is not the most pleasant process.
2. Backfill drainage. In fact, this method is identical to the previous one, but with one difference: in this case, the ditch will be covered with various building materials, such as cinder blocks or rubble, and all this will be covered with a layer of turf on top. Yes, it will not be possible to fall into such a drainage pit, but there is not much point in such drainage, since the throughput of the trench will drop to a minimum.
3. Closed drainage. This is a more serious design, for which high-quality materials are used. Often, in conjunction with such systems, a blind area is made around the house, and the drainage is completely hidden from prying eyes.

   Indoor drainage systems are safe, efficient, easy to maintain and pleasant to use. Of course, this option is more suitable as an answer to the question of how to properly drain around the house, and it is this type of drainage system that will be discussed in this article.

The choice of pipes for the drainage system

To date, the following types of drainage pipes can be found on the market:

• asbestos-cement. Such pipes have the best strength characteristics, can last up to 50 years, have good resistance to aggressive environments, but there is one drawback: they are incredibly heavy. In addition, if necessary, make through holes in them every 15-20 cm, you will have to sweat a lot (read also: “Do-it-yourself drainage pipe - device and installation using examples”);
• ceramic. This material itself is quite fragile, so ceramic pipes must be handled very carefully. You will have to cut holes in such pipes yourself, but the task is facilitated by lower strength. In some models, surface grooves are initially created to improve the collection of liquid. Mounting ceramic pipes is difficult precisely because of the low strength;
• porous pipes. The material for manufacturing can be different: plastic concrete, expanded clay and many others. Porous pipes do not need to be perforated, as their structure provides them with a good moisture absorption rate. These pipes are expensive, and the efficiency will directly depend on the diameter of the pipes: the higher, the better;
• plastic pipes. The drainage scheme around the house most often includes plastic pipes, which is due to good performance: they are cheap, easy to install and maintain, can work for several decades and are quite durable.

How to make a drainage system around the house

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands? To create the right drainage around the house, which will serve its owner for more than one year, you should follow the construction work algorithm below:

1. Taking measurements. First you need to find out where the lowest point of the site is located. This is where the drain well will be installed, and this is where the entire system will be directed. If you cannot visually determine the slope of the site, then you need to use a theodolite. This device is quite rare, but you can rent it.

   In ditches dug around the house, a slope of at least 10 mm per 1 meter of length must be observed. Of course, water will be able to move through the system with a smaller slope, but it is worth considering the fact that the structure will become clogged, and too little slope will cause clogging of the pipeline over time. You will have to dig a little more, but in the future these works will pay off with interest.

2. trenching. The minimum depth of the ditch should be at least 30 cm deeper than the foundation level. This is one of the reasons that do-it-yourself drainage around the house must be started even before the construction of the house begins: the foundation pit is usually dug with a margin (read: “Drainage depth around the house - rules and regulations). The width of the ditch should be about half a meter, and its upper point should be on the opposite side of the site with respect to the drain well.
3. Backfill. Large gravel is laid at the bottom of the ditch. Then it needs to be laid with a layer of sand and compacted. As a result, the thickness of the resulting layer should be about 15 cm. The slope must still be respected: each meter of length should be checked against the building level. On the bottom of the trench obtained in this way, a geotextile fabric should be laid, and its edges should rise along the sides of the ditch: a little later, drainage pipes will be wrapped in them.
4. Laying pipes. Now you can lay the drainage pipes in the ditch. Pipe joints must be insulated with a special tape. It is at this stage that manholes are usually installed, and it is desirable to place them at diametrically opposite places in the site. In addition, the height of the wells should not be measured by the depth of the trench in a given place, but by the level of the earth's surface throughout the entire area.

   Reliable drainage system around the house: a do-it-yourself device

   The pipeline is pulled to the manholes and the drainage well, after which the system is tested. This is a very important point, because the pipes have not yet been completely filled up, and any shortcomings can now be corrected. Drainage is tested very simply - just pour a few buckets of water into it. If everything works fine, then you can proceed to the last step.

5. From above, the pipes are again covered with rubble or gravel. The layer thickness should be about 40 cm. Then the structure is wrapped with geotextile. If desired, you can combine the drainage system and storm sewers, sending all the water to the drainage well.

A layer of rubble is covered with earth, and a layer of turf is laid on top of all this. Now the construction of the drainage system is completed.

Conclusion

This article answered the question of how to make drainage around the house. If you follow the proposed algorithms and properly arrange the drainage around the house, then the resulting system will work flawlessly for many years, protecting the building and the site from the damaging effects of moisture.

Drainage system around the house: features of the device and water drainage schemes

Drainage device around the foundation of the house.

In most cases, making drainage around the house is the only way to maintain the integrity of the foundation, since the main enemy of the foundation of the structure is water.

During the construction of the foundation, the walls of this structure are treated with waterproofing materials, but they are not eternal, and with prolonged contact with the moisture contained in the soil, they gradually lose their ability to repel water from the foundation. If the foundation is built in a place where the groundwater is low and the aquifers do not contact the surface of the foundation, the process of destruction is very slow, but where the water is close to the surface, the foundation is strongly affected by it. In areas where groundwater is close to the surface, moisture constantly stands under the foundation, and with heavy precipitation, even the basement or basement may be flooded.

So, the installation of a drainage system around the foundation is a vital necessity when groundwater is close, and also when there is heavy rainfall in the area in which the house is built. It is best to plan the drainage system at the stage of foundation construction, but if it comes to a finished house, then you can also drain around the finished structure. Drainage systems suitable for private homes include two main types: wall and open drainage.

Scheme of laying drainage pipes around a standard house.

In fairness, it should be noted that open drainage is a very effective means of diverting water in areas where the groundwater level is low, while at an elevated level, this drainage option is almost useless.

It is not difficult to make drainage around the house in this case, it is enough to dig grooves up to 25 cm deep around the house. Such drainage will be quite enough to collect melt and rainwater.

Wall drainage is a more complex structure, but it can also be done independently, although this will require a little money to purchase the necessary materials. Such drainage is recommended to be used in places with high soil moisture, since it is structures of this type that can completely solve the problem of flooding the basement or basement.

How to make a wall drainage system?

The wall system is a structure based on drainage pipes. To form a drainage system, you will need the following materials and tools:

First of all, in order to install a drainage system, a trench is dug at a distance of about 1 m from the foundation for laying drainage pipes. If a perforated drainage pipe is used, the width and depth of the trench must be at least 30 cm, since not only the pipe, but also the pillow must fit in the trench. The trench is made along the contour around the house to ensure good drainage from all sides. The bottom of the prepared trench should be covered with a 5 cm layer of sand.

Scheme of the drainage "pie" near the foundation.

When preparing a trench for laying pipes, it is necessary to ensure that its bottom has a slope of at least 2 cm. A layer of rolled geotextile is laid on top of the sand cushion. When laying the geotextile, make sure that its edges go to the sides of the trench. A 10 cm layer of fine gravel is poured on top of the geotextile, which is covered with the edges of the geotextile, previously turned to the edges of the trench. Such a drainage device allows water to easily penetrate the pipes and be discharged from the foundation.

After the preparatory work, you can start laying pipes. The arrangement of drainage pipes should be such that they are located around the house and both ends of the ring of pipes converge in one place - thus, water will drain through pipes that are under a slope into one common pipe. The common pipe should lead to the water intake. Revision wells should be placed in the corners of the house so that, if necessary, clogged pipes can be cleared. After fixing the drainage pipes around the perimeter of the house is completed, you need to fill the rest of the trench with gravel.

The water intake device does not require extra costs; for this, an empty tank is taken with holes drilled in the bottom in advance. The tank is dug into the ground, and a common pipe is connected to it under a slope so that the collected water flows into the sump. From the water collector, water through the holes in its lower part will go into the soil. Thus, the drainage system works completely autonomously, but once a year it is necessary to clean the pipes to prevent clogging of the holes in the perforated pipes.

Drainage around the house

Drainage around the house is an effective way to protect building elements and outbuildings from moisture.

The creation of such a drainage system is especially important if the groundwater is at a depth of less than 2.5 meters. This is also necessary if the residential structure is located on a site that is prone to seasonal or weather flooding. Drainage is not a difficult task, but for its proper organization, you need to follow simple rules. How to make drainage around the house with your own hands?

System description

For the effective removal of ground, rain and melt water, which not only destroy the structural elements of the building, fill the basement and cellar, but also reduce the bearing capacity of the soil, there are several ways to arrange drainage. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, deciding what type to choose and how to make drainage around the house with your own hands remains with the owner of suburban real estate.

The design and location of the protection system against excessive moisture is selected taking into account the terrain, the presence of recessed rooms, the depth of groundwater, and the type of soil. By design, the following drainage systems are distinguished: filling, open and closed.

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

Depending on what area of ​​the land plot needs to be drained, what type of drainage and what depth of the drainage system will be most effective, the location of the entire system is chosen. If necessary, to exclude the effect of water on the foundation and basements, wall or ring drainage is created. The first type is appropriate in the presence of a basement or basement and is located in close proximity to the foundation walls. Trenches are dug around the perimeter, a perforated pipe is laid (below the level of the basement floor) and covered with rubble or gravel. The wall is fenced off with a layer of geotextile with one-sided conductivity. Water from the ground does not reach the walls, but enters the drainage system and is discharged to a safe place.

To protect the entire site, the drainage system is located around its perimeter. The most time-consuming, expensive, but also the most effective way is a closed system using plastic perforated pipes. The price in Moscow for perforated plastic pipes is low and affordable for any family budget. It perfectly removes excess water from the site, preventing mold from forming, destroying garden and garden plants, destroying load-bearing building elements and not spoiling the appearance of the house.

To create such a drainage, you need to perform several operations:

• draw a diagram of the future system on paper indicating the size and distance from the edge of the site, as well as taking into account landscape design and the location of plantings;
• mark future tracks on the site itself with paint or sand;
• dig trenches along the marked routes with your own hands or with the help of small equipment (the depth and width depend on the level of groundwater and the diameter of the pipes used, vary from 70 to 150 cm in depth and from 25 to 40 cm in width);
• line the bottom and walls of the trench with geotextile (the material will significantly reduce drainage clogging and significantly increase the period of effective operation);
• apply a layer of sand (about 15 cm) to the bottom, and then a layer of crushed stone or gravel (about 20 cm);
• using the device and the gravel layer, set the desired slope level;
• with a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site, it will be necessary to create manholes at a distance of 50 meters from each other in places where pipes bend or change in slope;
• perforated pipes are laid (preferably with a filter element - fiberglass, coconut fiber, non-woven or needle-punched textiles) and interconnected using fittings;
• the most optimal diameter of the drainage pipe, which provides good water drainage, is 110 mm;
• the slope is checked again (can be easily done with a stretched rope), while it is necessary to create a uniform level, excluding sagging of the drainage pipe;
• it is very important that the drainage system is below the freezing level of the soil;
• from above, the pipes are covered with crushed stone or gravel, the thickness of the layer should not reach the soil surface of about 15 cm;
• geotextiles are laid on a layer of crushed stone and soil is poured.

Do not be afraid of increasing the cost of creating drainage: purchasing additional geotextiles and separating all layers from each other will only increase the efficiency and service life of the entire system.

Following these simple instructions will allow you to install long-term water protection with your own hands and preserve your property and health throughout the life of the house.

Backfill construction

The backfill drainage structure is a deep trench (below the upper groundwater level) filled with coarse gravel, crushed stone or other rubble material.

How to make drainage around the house

The upper part of the trench is covered with a layer of turf, and to reduce sagging and silting of the passage space, the walls are laid with a layer of geotextile material. Such drainage is easy to create, low cost, long service life and no need for maintenance.

In addition, in its final form, it does not violate the general appearance of the site and does not introduce dissonance into landscape design. Of the minuses, one can note the low throughput of the water flow and the impossibility of cleaning the discharge channel in case of clogging.

Open type drainage device

An open option or surface drainage involves the creation of shallow trenches (about 0.5 meters) of an open type, through which rain and melt water is drained into special containers or removed from the site. To prevent sagging and destruction of the walls of the trenches, plastic or metal trays are placed in them. Lattices on top provide additional security.

How to make a closed drainage system

The most complex and time-consuming type of drainage is the closed type. When it is organized, trenches are dug, a layer of gravel or large gravel is poured onto the bottom, and then perforated pipes are laid. From above, the entire structure is again closed with crushed stone or gravel, and at the end a layer of soil is applied. To increase the efficiency of water drainage and reduce silting on perforated pipes, filter material (geotextile) is used. The material for the manufacture of perforated pipes are steel, asbestos cement, ceramics, but at present, almost all types have given way to plastic. Corrugated plastic pipes are widely used, which already have holes in finished form, are distinguished by their long length and ease of installation.

When choosing any method of removing excess moisture, be sure to take into account the slope of the drainage channels. For the system to work properly, the level of inclination towards the outlet to an artificial or natural water intake must be at least 3 ° along one branch or 1 cm per linear meter. When deciding how to properly slope the drainage, you can use the adjustment of the thickness of the gravel pad.

There are several places in a private house that need to be protected from getting wet from the outside. This is the foundation and recessed buildings. Rainwater, all kinds of runoff and rising groundwater gradually destroy the monolithic foundations and walls of the basements. A properly equipped drainage system around the house can prevent the occurrence of this process. It is able to remove excess moisture from structures. Even a very good blind area cannot be compared in terms of the degree of protection of a house with a laid drainage system. It is highly recommended to equip such a system near each house, regardless of the presence of a basement or basement.

A high-quality drainage system around the house with your own hands can be made in several ways:

Features of different foundation drainage systems

The choice of a particular type of drainage depends on the presence of buried rooms, the depth of groundwater, the composition of the soil on the site and the topography of the site itself. Consider what features the drainage device around the house has.

In total, there are 3 types of drainage, which differ in their location and design:

Important: Please note that formation drainage does not replace other types of drainage, but only complements it. Therefore, in addition to it, the main drainage system should be carried out.

Please note that if you decide to do ring drainage around the house with your own hands, the system should be located 0.5 m below the foundation level. Such an arrangement will ensure high-quality removal of groundwater from the building at any time of the year.

And if you are thinking about that, then our separate material on this topic may be useful to you.

Drainage installation

Consider how to make a drainage system around the house in two ways.

Production of wall drainage

Before performing work, it is necessary to prepare the foundation, since the system will directly adjoin it.

For this, the following work is carried out:

1. The foundation from the outside is primed with a special bituminous primer.
2. Bituminous mastic is applied to the dried surface.
3. A reinforcing mesh with 2 x 2 mm cells is glued onto the mastic.
4. The next day, after the mastic has hardened, the second layer of mastic is again applied to the mesh.

In the photo, the drainage system around the house is a trench and manholes along the edges

• a collector well is mounted, to which drainage pipes will be connected. It is located at the lowest point on the site;
• using a laser or building level, the slope of the trench passing near the foundation is ensured towards the water collector;
• the bottom of the trenches is covered with a layer of sand of at least 5 cm;
• geotextiles are laid on the sand, the sides of which will subsequently be overlapped;
• a gravel backfill is created having a thickness of the order of 10 cm;
• prepared perforated pipes are laid on the gravel layer. They are provided with a slope of 2 degrees;
• pipes are joined by adapters and corner connectors;
• at the corners of the building, all pipelines enter the installed manholes;
• pipes are laid from the manholes, diverting water into a collection well or drain pit. These pipes are also located in trenches and have a slope;
• the pipes are backfilled with gravel (about 10 cm) and the entire contents are wrapped with geotextiles. By means of synthetic ropes, the geotextile is firmly fixed;
• further backfilling of the trenches to the level of the soil is carried out with sand or soddy soil.

We looked at how to make drainage around a wall-type foundation. Next, we will pay attention to the manufacture of trench drainage, which is even more popular.

Production of an annular drainage

For this type of work, you will also need perforated pipes, crushed stone, sand and geotextiles. When an annular drainage system is made around the house, the technology involves digging trenches at a distance of 5-8 m from the foundation of the building in order to exclude the possibility of subsidence of the soil around it. The trenches are located around the building and represent a closed system. The depth of the trenches should be such that the drainage passes below the level of the foundation by 50 cm.

A trench (or several trenches) is immediately carried out towards the main catchment well. The slope of the trenches is provided at least 2-3 cm per linear meter. The slope can be adjusted by adding sand in the right places.

• the bottom of the trenches is lined with a layer of sand, and then with geotextiles, the edges of which are wrapped around their walls;
• crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile with a layer of 10 cm;
• pipes with holes drilled in them are laid out on crushed stone. It is desirable to use a pipe diameter of at least 10 cm. It is advisable to pre-wrap all pipes with a layer of geotextile, which will prevent their clogging;

Tip: Ordinary PVC pipes used for sewerage are quite suitable. In them, you can drill holes of small diameter with a drill, placing them in a certain order.

• the slope of the pipes is checked, which must be at least 2 degrees;
• manholes are mounted at pipe bends, closed with removable covers. The same wells should be installed on long straight sections, with a step of 12 m;
• crushed stone or gravel is poured over the laid pipes with a layer of 20-30 cm;
• the entire “pie” inside the trenches is wrapped with overlapping geotextiles;
• the place remaining in the trenches is covered with river sand and covered with turf.

Features of drainage wells

Any drainage around a site or structure should be constructed using multiple manholes located at pipe bends. It is in these places that clogging of drainage pipes most often occurs. Through the manhole, you can control the cleanliness of the drains and clean them if necessary. Wells can be purchased or made from any material. They should be of such a width that it is convenient to clean them by lowering your hand there.

In addition to several manholes, at the lowest point of the site is collector well designed to collect all the water flowing through the channels. This is a wider and more voluminous structure, which can be concrete, plastic or metal. Its depth is chosen in such a way that the pipes entering it are at a considerable distance from the bottom. This makes it possible to periodically clean the well from sediments accumulated at its bottom and allows the well to be filled with sewage. From the collector tank, water can be pumped out by a pump or go by gravity to designated places.

By creating a drainage system around the house in accordance with all the rules, you will get rid of the detrimental effect of excessive dampness affecting the foundation and recessed rooms of the house.

What it is?

The device of almost any type of drainage system around the house is a very complex structure, consisting of pipes that perform the work of draining storm, snow and groundwater from the house, foundation, areas with green spaces growing around the house or cottage. Water is drained into ravines, dug holes or into specially installed reservoirs.

In addition, a well-organized drainage system around the house can play the role of not only drainage, but also lowering the water level. In order to organize high-quality drainage, you can use metal, ceramic, asbestos-cement or plastic pipes. The latter version of drainage pipes is most widely used for groundwater drainage, so today it is the best in comparison with others.

Any drainage system around the house is unique, because its device is adapted to certain geological and geographical indicators of the area, for example, if there is a ravine or a forest with small ravines near your house or cottage, then in this case, water can be drained through the drainage pipes into a ready-made recess, if there is neither one nor the other nearby, you can dig a hole yourself into which water will drain from the site.

Thus, self-made drainage around the house, cottage or cottage will not allow water to accumulate on the site, next to the foundation, cellar, and will prevent waterlogging of the soil.

In the photo above, you can see the device of the drainage system with your own hands around a private house.

Drainage scheme

The photo below shows in detail the scheme of the drainage device around the house.

Designation on the diagram:

1. a funnel into which a drainpipe is installed.
2. storm sewer system.
3. drainage device.
4. drainage well.
5. drainage well.
6. collector well.
7. Check Valve.
8. discharge of water into the ground.

• Along the perimeter of your house, you need to dig trenches yourself, into which drainage pipes are laid. The slope of the drainage pipes and dug trenches should be two centimeters per linear meter of drainage to be equipped.
• The collector should be located at the bottom of the drainage system, into which storm or melt water will be discharged into the ground.
• If on the site where your private house is located it is not possible to create the desired slope due to the hardness of the soil, then the installation of a pump will need to be provided for in the drainage system diagram. It should be noted that the drainage system of the site created in this way will perform its direct work much more efficiently for a very long time.
• For drainage work around the house, it is best to use perforated polymer drainage pipes, which can be bought at any hardware store. Today, the price of drainage pipes makes them affordable for everyone.
• In the drainage system of the site, it is necessary to provide for the installation of revision wells, they are often located in the corners of the house.

As you can see, the drainage device around the house according to the scheme presented above does not cause any particular difficulties, so you can do this work yourself, however, provided that you have a ready-made scheme and instructions for doing the work.

Important: if you cannot make competent drainage system diagrams, then contact the design company for help, specialists will help you decide on the type of drainage system, complete the necessary drawings and diagrams, drain the site so that you just have to enjoy the high efficiency of the work done their drainage system.

To competently make drainage around the house, cottage or cottage, watch the video presented here:

Drainage system device

If you want to understand how to drain around your home, then read this article carefully. So, before you make drainage around the house, you will need to make high-quality waterproofing of the foundation of your house, it will not be difficult for you to do it yourself. The foundation of the house should be prepared, for this you will need to perform a number of works:

• First of all, we need to open the foundation in order to waterproof it. The dug earth does not need to be taken away anywhere, because after you make the waterproofing with your own hands, the foundation will need to be filled up again and tamped well.
• The width of the trench should be approximately half a meter to one meter.
• As soon as you open the foundation, it will need to be cleared of the earth, and if there is old waterproofing on it, then it will also need to be disposed of.
• The cleaned foundation needs to be dried thoroughly, it is better if this happens naturally, otherwise many people start making a fire for this purpose, turn on gas burners and the like, thinking that this is the best option.

Now the cleaned and dried foundation can be waterproofed, there are several options here, you can overlay it with rolled geotextile, cover it with bituminous mastic, lay roofing material, in the latter case you will need to build a pressure wall of brick.

In addition, you can resort to sprayed waterproofing, although it will need to be reinforced with geotextiles. Which option is better to do is up to you. As soon as the waterproofing of the foundation with your own hands is completed, you can safely proceed with the installation of drainage pipes.

• First step. First, you will need to dig a moat yourself, and drainage pipes will be installed in it, which are necessary to create a high-quality drainage system in the area around the house. The ditch must be dug so that it is located at a distance of 1 m from the foundation and slightly below it. The width of the ditch should be such that a perforated polymer pipe with a diameter of one hundred and ten millimeters can be laid in it. On each side of the laid pipe, there should be an empty space of at least ten centimeters, this is necessary in order for the backfilling of the pipe with soil to be of high quality.
• Second phase. The bottom of the trench dug with your own hands will need to be leveled with sand. The layer of sand should be about five to ten centimeters, and the excavated ditch must certainly have a slope of at least 2 cm per 1 running meter (linear meter).
• Third stage. The best option is considered when the drainage system around the house will be made using geotextiles. On top of the created sand cushion, it will be necessary to lay the rolled geotextile, and its ends should be well fixed on the walls of the trench.
• Fourth stage. On top of the laid layer of geotextile, it will be necessary to pour gravel, the thickness of its layer should reach about ten to fifteen centimeters.
• Fifth stage. At this stage of the drainage system, it is possible to proceed with the installation of drainage pipes, their installation is carried out with a slope towards the well made.
• Sixth stage. The laid drainage pipes are covered with gravel, the layer of which should reach from ten to fifteen centimeters.
• Seventh stage. Now we cover everything with rolled geotextile, and fasten its ends.
• Eighth stage. The water intake will need to be installed on the last drainage pipe, it should be diverted from the housing by about five meters, no less.
• Ninth stage. At the water intake, you need to close the walls and bottom with geotextiles, then install a reservoir in it, preferably plastic. Holes must be made at the bottom of the plastic tank. To install a plastic tank, it is not required to involve special equipment, which significantly saves money on the cost of installing a site drainage system.
• Tenth stage. The installed tank will need to be fixed by itself so that later, under the influence of heaving forces, it cannot rise outward, then the entire structure must be covered with gravel, and soil is already poured over the gravel.

To better understand how to drain a site, watch the video:

Types of drainage systems

Based on the characteristics of the flooding of the site, the future drainage system around the house can be of several types, their choice depends on the characteristics of the soil.

• Surface drainage

Surface type drainage. The main advantage that surface drainage around the house has is that its arrangement with your own hands can be done even after most of the work on the site has been done.

It is very simple to make surface drainage around the house on the site yourself, for this you just need to read the instructions for arranging a drainage system for draining water from the site. In order to make the best surface drainage of the site, you will need to draw a detailed diagram, and rely on it during work.

• Point drainage

Drainage point type. This type of drainage system for a private house is necessary for the rapid removal of water that appears from local sources (this can be water from watering taps, from a roof drain, and so on). Do-it-yourself spot drainage around the house will need to be closed with grates made of metal, so it will be possible to prevent the formation of blockages in the spot drainage channels with fallen leaves and debris.

When installing a point drainage system, it will be necessary to draw drainage pipes from each point made in such a way that they can be connected to the main main pipe, which is directed to the place of the drainage well.

Unlike surface drainage around the house, spot drainage is a more complex device, so it takes more time and cost to do all the work on arranging spot drainage. But then such a drainage system of the site will effectively fulfill its direct role for a very long time. In addition, point drainage can remove large amounts of water from the site.

• Linear drainage

Drainage linear type. It must be said that this type of drainage system around a private house is designed to drain melt and storm water from the site. The flow of water during the installation of linear drainage is carried out into channels dug in the ground and then discharged into the well. Channels are best done in a rectilinear shape.

In order to prevent clogging, the linear drainage channels will need to be covered with a grate. It should be noted that linear drainage can be performed independently only if the project provides for detailed schemes for its arrangement. In addition, the linear drainage device requires adherence to the installation instructions, only in this case it can be guaranteed that the drainage of the site will be performed correctly.

• open drainage

Drainage of open type. This type of drainage system for a private house or cottage is easy to arrange with your own hands - a trench is dug out, along which melt or storm water will be drained.

Such open drainage around your house can be organized very quickly and inexpensively, this is perhaps the biggest plus that speaks in its favor, but the disadvantages of linear drainage include the fact that the device of this type of drainage system of the site can greatly spoil the appearance of the area adjacent to the private home of the territory. And the point here is in the very device of the open drainage of the site with your own hands.

First of all, when open drainage is done, then around a private house and on all sides of your land plot you will need to dig a trench with your own hands, the depth of which should be about fifty to sixty centimeters, and a width of five hundred centimeters (half a meter). All dug trenches will need to be brought to a common drainage ditch.

In order for the water flow to pass unhindered, it will be necessary to make a small bevel from the side of the private house, its angle should be thirty degrees, and due to the slope towards the water intake ditch, the water will flow by gravity in the required direction.

If open drainage will have to carry out the removal of a large volume of water, then for its construction it will be necessary to dig a deep drainage trench, and it will not only spoil the appearance of the territory, but will also be dangerous, because you can fall into it. In addition, the walls of the trench will collapse all the time.

However, there is still one way that can improve safety and extend the service life of open drainage for a private house - this is the installation of concrete or plastic trays, they are covered with bars on top. In this case, the open drainage will be protected from collapses of the walls of the moat, and the gratings will provide you with security, especially at night.

In the photo you can see what the open drainage of the site looks like with your own hands.

• deep drainage

Deep type drainage. In order to be able to effectively drain a large volume of groundwater, you need to make an impressive drainage system around the house with your own hands, for example, create a deep drainage on the site, which will effectively carry out drainage work. This type of drainage system for a private house is used in clay areas that are in a lowland and have a fairly high level of groundwater content.

It must be said right away that it will not be so easy to make deep drainage around the house yourself, because here you will have to lay perforated drainage pipes into dug trenches. The diameter of the drainage pipes for draining groundwater will directly depend on how much water will be drained, and the depth of the trenches will need to be done based on the height of the groundwater.

In the photo you can see what deep drainage looks like on the site.

The photo shows how to do deep drainage on the site.

Photo: a detailed diagram showing in detail how deep drainage is done on the site.

• Closed drainage

Drainage of the closed type. Unlike deep drainage, closed site drainage is more aesthetically pleasing. Here, the receiving trench is arranged with their own hands much narrower and smaller. If you want to make the best indoor drainage with your own hands, you will need to perform a series of work according to the instructions, which can be found on the net. During the work on the installation of the drainage system, many nuances should be taken into account, which will subsequently affect how closed drainage works on the site.

• Backfill drainage

Backfill type drainage. It should be noted that backfill drainage of the site is arranged with a small area where it is not possible to make open drainage or deep drainage of the site with your own hands. You can make the best indoor drainage of the site yourself in several stages:

• First, you will need to dig a trench to a depth of about one meter, while observing the slope in the direction of the drainage well.
• At the bottom of a trench dug with your own hands, geotextiles should be laid.
• Next, the trench will need to be filled up, crushed stone, gravel and the like can be used as a backfill.
• A layer of turf is placed on top, although this is not necessary, you can leave everything like that, just a laid layer of turf will give your area around a private house an aesthetic appeal.

In the photo you can see backfill drainage on the site.

Despite the seeming simplicity of backfill drainage, such work should be approached responsibly.

Necessary tools and materials

For the device on our site of the best drainage system around the house, cottage or cottage, we need to buy the following tools and materials:

• Hacksaw for metal.
• Rammer.
• Shovel.
• Point for transporting sand and gravel
• Level.
• Rail.
• Plastic rotary wells.
• Fittings and couplings.
• Drainage pipes of the required diameter.
• Well-washed river sand.
• Geotextile.
• Gravel or crushed stone (washed).

You can buy all these tools and materials on the market.

How to make drainage with your own hands: instructions with video

Today, many owners of private houses sooner or later become very interested in the question of how to properly drain around the house or cottage. It is impossible to answer such a question in a few words, therefore, below will be step-by-step instructions for carrying out work related to the installation of closed drainage around a private house.

• First of all, you will need to find the best place so that you can make yourself a closed drainage next to a private house. It must be said right away that closed drainage can be performed independently in several ways: to be located throughout the site or just next to the foundation. If the closed drainage is located next to the foundation, then it will not allow water to penetrate into a private house, cellar, bathhouse, basement. In the case when it is located on the site, it will provide reliable protection with green spaces, the basement of the house and existing buildings.

The photo shows a diagram of a closed drainage device around a private house.

• Next, markup should be carried out on the site, where the drainage trenches will be located. Marking can be done using a laser rangefinder. If this is not at hand, then you can resort to a simpler method - after the rain you will need to see where the water grooves stand the longest, and that is why you need to dig drainage trenches.

The photo shows a drainage trench that needs to be done for a closed drainage system.

• When digging a trench, you need to adhere to the difference in height, because the stack of water must be directed to a drainage well made by yourself, and if the difference in height is not respected, then water will accumulate in the pipes.
• Lay rolled geotextile, it will act as a water filter from various impurities, and if they are not removed, then they will clog the perforation of the laid drainage pipe in the area.

Photo: closed drainage - geotextile laying.

Important: if on your site around a private house or cottage the soil is clayey, then the use of geotextiles is mandatory, and if the soil is sandy, then it can be omitted.

• At the bottom of the dug trench, you need to pour a layer of gravel. Carefully lay a perforated plastic or ceramic pipe, it will be the basis of your drainage system. Important: drainage pipes must be perforated, if not, then perforate yourself. Between themselves, the pipes must be connected using a special tee or cross. The perforation of the drainage pipe for the device of closed drainage should be made smaller than the size of the gravel particles.

Photo: closed drainage - installation of a perforated pipe.

• The ends of the pipe will need to be brought into the inspection wells themselves, they are located at all turns to provide access to the drainage system when cleaning or repair work needs to be carried out.
• Further, the pipes are led to a drainage well.

In the photo you can see a viewing and drainage well.

• The pipes are covered with rubble, the layer height is not less than three hundred millimeters.
• Further, the drainage pipes covered with crushed stone are wrapped with previously laid geotextiles.

The photo shows how to wrap pipes when creating a drainage system in the area around the house.

• From above, everything is covered with soil or sand, you can also put turf.

Photo: finished drainage system on the site.

To create the best drainage system, watch the video here for helpful tips and tricks.

Drainage pipes for groundwater

To provide the foundation with reliable protection from groundwater, it will be necessary to responsibly approach the choice of pipes. And what type of drainage pipes is best suited will directly depend on the soil on the site:

• The soil is gravel. In this case, it is better to buy drainage pipes with perforation, in which there will be no additional filter layer.
• The soil is sandy. In this case, you will need to buy drainage pipes with an additional layer of geotextile filtration.
• The soil is clayey. Several types of pipes can be used here: drainage pipes with a filter layer and pipes without a filter layer. The filter layer must be made of coconut fibre.
• The soil is loamy. Suitable pipes with a filter layer made of geotextiles.

In the photo you can see a perforated drainage pipe, which is most often used to install a drainage system on the site.

This photo shows a perforated drainage pipe with a layer of geotextile.

In the photo you can see a two-layer drainage pipe.

To better understand how pipes are installed when creating a drainage system, you can watch a video that shows how such work is done.

site drainage cost

The price of a surface drainage device around a private house is greatly affected by the cost of the materials used, their delivery to the site and the complex of works. The price of a turnkey drainage system will be significantly higher than if you did such work yourself.

However, if you yourself cannot determine the type of soil and find the right slope, then in this case it is best to entrust such work to professionals. Let their services cost you more, but the drainage system they have equipped with proper care will function well for more than a dozen years. Below you can find a table that shows the approximate cost of installing a drainage system around a private house.

1. In order for a do-it-yourself device for discharging melt and rainwater to function for a long time and with high quality, it is recommended to include sand traps in the scheme for creating drainage around the house. These are devices that provide protection against small debris. Such a drainage system will work effectively for many years.
2. Surface drainage systems must be properly designed, assembled and properly maintained.
3. So that the walls of self-dug trenches do not crumble, they must be made at an angle of about twenty-five to thirty-five degrees.
4. In order for the drainage system around a private house to work efficiently at any time of the year, it is best to entrust such work to specialists from the very beginning. They competently perform all work, from the creation of a project and scheme for the installation of a drainage system, and ending with its installation on the site.
5. If you want the drainage system for removing water from the site to do its job as efficiently as possible, then give your choice in favor of a deep drainage device around the house.

Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house - design instructions

Are you designing a house and thinking about installing a drainage system around it at the same time? Or maybe the house has been ready for a long time, but the dampness in the basement violates the harmony and comfort in your home? In both cases - a necessary measure, which should not be forgotten. lots of. Let us consider in more detail how to lay communications with your own hands to remove moisture around the house.

How to make a foundation with your own hands

Drainage is a system of pipes laid under a slope in special trenches and equipped with revision wells. Excess moisture from the soil, accumulating in perforated pipes, flows by gravity into the storage well.

We design a drainage system

The efficiency of the entire system depends on the accuracy of its design. Therefore, it is worth paying due attention to this stage of preparation.

The drainage system project begins with geological studies: determining the type of soil, the maximum level of groundwater, the highest and lowest points of the site. The entire plot is applied to the plan, indicating the trees, structures, the building itself on a scale. You can use checkered paper or a graphic editor. Drains will be laid along the perimeter of the house (at a distance of no more than 1 meter and at a depth - just below the level of laying the foundation, the optimal slope of the trenches is 3 cm per 1 linear meter), and should be located at the lowest point of the site. Following this rule, we indicate on the drawing the laying of pipes, places for installing inspection / rotary wells and a discharge point (rotary wells should be located at each pipe turn, inspection wells - every 30-40 meters on straight sections of the pipeline).

We select drainage pipes and prepare for earthworks

So, the plan has been drawn up, it's time to start acquiring materials for the drainage system around the house.

Pipes for drainage systems are produced from: plastic (with a smooth wall or corrugated), "Perfokor" (pipes made of plastic with mineral additives), asbestos cement, ceramics. The pipes have different diameters and stiffness classes; filters can be additionally built in to prevent clogging of the perforations. Pipes Ø100-110 mm are suitable for drainage, while the lower the level of drain laying, the stronger the material should be.

Flexible plastic pipes for drainage are not recommended due to the difficulty of maintaining an accurate slope and possible deposits of silt in places of slight bends during operation. Drains can be made with your own hands from smooth-walled orange plastic sewer pipes by simply drilling a sufficient number of holes in the walls.

Do not forget to purchase other materials for arranging the drainage system: fittings (tees, adapters, couplings, plugs), material for constructing the walls of manholes (for example, plastic rings or plastic pipes), manhole covers for manholes, silicone sealant, crushed stone, sand, cement, geotextiles (non-woven material that can pass water and retain particles of sand and soil), shovels, building level and tape measure, nylon cord. You will also need a waterproofing compound to cover the foundation.

Earthworks and waterproofing works

Earthworks, which can be done manually or with an excavator, begin with digging a trench along the perimeter of the building, which should be located at a distance of half a meter from the foundation and lie 30 cm below it (at the highest point of the site). From this highest point of the section, the trenches should slope towards the catchment point by at least 1 cm/m.

The walls of the trench can be made rectangular or trapezoidal. The second option is more convenient on loose, crumbling soils. The width of the trenches is taken equal to the diameter of the drainage pipes with a margin of 40-50 cm (for pipes with a diameter of 100 cm, the width of the trench will be about one and a half meters). Check the accuracy of earthworks with beacons or a level stretched along the bottom of the trench.

At each turn of the trench and every 30-50 meters of straight sections, it is necessary to dig small pits for manholes. Do not forget to remove sharp stones, large clods of earth and foreign objects from the soil during the digging process, which can damage the drains.

Laying the filter layer and assembling drains

When the trench around the perimeter is dug with the proper slope, the pits for the wells are ready, you can proceed to further steps.

If you have enough geotextile, lay this material at the bottom of the trench (with allowance for the walls). If you saved money and did not purchase geotextiles, then the bottom of the trench should be covered with a ten-centimeter layer of compacted sand. Next, a layer of fine gravel about 10 cm thick should be covered with geotextiles or sand. You can start assembling drains.

If your pipes don't have filters to keep the drain holes from clogging, wrap them with a single layer of geotextile and secure it with plastic twine.

It is necessary to lay the pipes in the center of the trenches, connecting them into a single closed circuit with fittings and couplings (during assembly, it is advisable to use 2 fittings with 45 ° angles at turns, avoiding fittings with right angles to avoid possible blockages). It is desirable to coat all joints with silicone sealant. In the event that the holes on the drainage pipes are located only on one side, then the pipes are laid with these holes down. Do not forget to install rotary and manholes, providing them with covers and plugs at the bottom. Set, into which all the water collected in the drains will be discharged. The height of the wells (including the intake well) is selected based on the depth of the trench and the need for easy access to the hatch after landscaping near the house is completed.

After installation work, the pipes should be covered with a layer of crushed stone, after which, with the edges of the geotextile laid on the bottom at the very beginning, cover this filtering layer of backfill (crushed stone is poured just above the lower level of the grillage).

Video - Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house

Ring drainage system around the house

Annular drainage is equipped in cases where the house has already been built and the blind area has been laid. Technologically, there are no main differences between the ring and the wall, with the exception of the following points:

• the trench must be laid along the perimeter of the house at a distance of up to three meters from the foundation, while all the rules of land work, including slope and depth, remain unchanged;
• after laying drains and installing wells, a ten-centimeter layer of crushed stone should be covered, wrapped with the free edges of geotextile, and then filled with soil to zero level;
• instead of a blind area, the filled trenches of the annular drainage are covered with a thin layer of gravel (or turf) and decorated like an annular path leading to the spillway point.

How to make linear foundation drainage with your own hands

Linear drainage implies the laying of drainage trays in the territory adjacent to the house, and can also be installed along the perimeter of the building (including near the front door) to collect and drain surface water. The system of communicating gutters (trays) can be supplemented with point storm water inlets for collecting rainwater from the roof and sand traps with connected drainage pipes, through which water will be discharged into a collector well. The system protects the foundation of the building and the blind area from the harmful effects of excessive moisture.

Preparing a linear drainage plan

In a graphic editor or on paper in a cage, we draw a plan of the buildings on the site (top view). Next, we mark the line for laying linear drainage along the perimeter, designate places for installing point storm water inlets, a door grate, a water discharge point (the drainage well should be located at the lowest point of the site).

We buy materials

For work you will need: trowels, shovels, cement, sand, roofing felt or roofing felt, sealant, trays with gratings, sand traps, plugs, drainage pipes, nylon cord, building level, grinder.

Earthworks and installation works

You can step on the drainage trays only after the cement has dried. During operation, the trays should be periodically cleaned with a jet, removing the baskets for collecting debris.

You can learn more about the intricacies of installing a surface drainage system from the video tutorial.

Sandbox prices

sand trap

Video - Surface drainage around the house

Drainage tray installation diagram

Even perfect waterproofing of the foundation will not be able to protect it from the ingress of groundwater if they come too close to the surface. The device of a high-quality drainage system located around the perimeter of the house will protect the building from excessive moisture.

Purpose and types of drainage

drainage system buildings are called the removal of groundwater from them, as well as storm and flood waters using a system of pipes, channels, underground galleries, etc. The choice of the type of drainage system depends on the three most important factors:

soil composition in the area where the building is located: clay and loam pass water very poorly, so the water level in such areas drops very slowly;
locations buildings: when the house is in a lowland, a drainage system will be required;
groundwater level: If they pass too close to the surface, the structure will invariably flood.

wall-mounted(deep) drainage is a system of pipes laid almost right next to the foundation. Such a drainage system is laid deep enough - if the foundation is tape, then it should be located even slightly below it.

wall drainage

Unlike the wall annular is not built along the house, but at some distance from it (up to 3 meters). It is used mainly when construction work has already been completed, and it is not possible to lay a full-fledged drainage system.

Important! The ring drainage system is able to protect only the basement of the building, however, it will not be able to protect it from the penetration of water into the house, especially with a significant rise in groundwater.

ring drainage

According to the depth of laying and the volume of discharged water, drainage is divided into:
surface(storm drain): used only to drain storm and melt water from the site; looks like shallow channels;
pinpoint: located above drains or near watering devices;
combined: combines the first and second options.

According to the method of laying drains, it can be:
open: in the form of trenches, gutters and other systems;
closed: installed underground;
deep: drainage pipes are laid to a depth of at least a meter.

Surface drainage

Livnevka(surface drainage) refers to drainage ditches, most often lined with stone or concreted, or pipes laid with a slope towards the drain. There are several nuances in its arrangement. If deep systems are easy to mount under the required slope, then in the case of surface drainage, this is not possible. So that the water can go into the drainage well by gravity, trenching is carried out taking into account the terrain. In some cases, it may be necessary to move part of the soil to create slopes.

Surface drainage

For surface drainage around buildings or along the perimeter of the entire site, ditches 0.5 m wide and about the same depth, which are connected to a common trench leading to a drainage well. In order for water to flow freely into the ditches, they must have a gentle slope (bevel) of about 30°.

Tray drainage

To prevent shedding of trenches, they are poured with concrete, lined with slate, ceramics, or special steel or polymer trays are arranged in them. In order to prevent the drainage channels from clogging too often, metal or plastic gratings are laid in them or mesh trays are built directly into the blind area.

Wall deep drainage

Such a system is able to extend the life of the foundation and divert water even if it rises significantly during floods and rains. With a groundwater level of more than 2.5 m, its device is mandatory.

In general, such drainage can be represented as a system of interconnected perforated pipes (drains) that run along the entire perimeter of the foundation. The collected moisture goes to collector(water intake well), which serves to collect water before it is discharged into the sewer system or reservoirs. It can be made of both concrete rings and reinforced concrete. If it is not possible to install a water intake well, and the water discharge point is located high, drainage pumps are used.

Drains (drainage pipes)

Advice. In practice, drainage into a sewer septic tank is rarely used due to the risk of overflow. It is better to use water from the collector for irrigation or divert it outside the site.

For the normal functioning of the drainage, the holes in the pipes must have a diameter of 1.5-5 mm. To protect against sand and small impurities, they can be additionally supplied with filter shells.

To prevent water from accumulating in trenches, they should be laid from a water intake - a ravine or a drainage well. Before laying pipes, the bottom of the ditch is compacted and covered first with coarse sand, and then rubble. The height of each of the layers is from 100 mm. The backfill should have a slight slope. According to building codes, a meter of pipe must have slope from 2 mm. In practice, in order for water to flow by gravity into the outlet pipes, this figure should be much larger - 5-10 mm.

Pipe laying

The laid pipes are covered with large crushed stone or gravel. Next, the trench is covered geotextile(it is wrapped around pipes and rubble and fixed with cords), again covered with sand, and then with soil. Since such a system requires periodic cleaning, in places where the trench turns and at the end of the pipeline, manholes. In the last of them, a pump for forced pumping can be mounted. Sometimes, in order to save money, instead of manholes, pipes can be installed flush with the blind area through which the system is flushed.

Advice. Geotextile should not be too dense - it should pass water well.

Manhole installation

System Maintenance consists in wells and their cleaning as necessary. Mandatory preventive cleaning is carried out before floods in spring and autumn.