Drainage cesspool. Creating a cesspool for a private house with your own hands. General rules for the installation of cesspools from concrete rings

Common Mistakes

Practice shows that often when arranging a cesspool, mistakes are made such as:

• incorrect performance of preliminary calculations in terms of volume and location;
• insufficient depth of the pit;
• weak strengthening of the walls of the pit, as a result of which shedding occurs
  walls;
• the outlet pipes are parallel to the ground, and not at a slight angle;
• neglect of the rules for the installation of concrete rings.

The question often arises before the owners of private houses,.

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If you are engaged in arranging your own site and home, it is important to consider how a cesspool is created with your own hands. It is a reservoir for waste. There are several varieties, different materials are used. In budget options, long-used car tires are used. Modern septic tanks are also used.

The choice depends on the budget, the characteristics of the soil, the frequency of living in the house. It is much easier if you live in a country house only in the warm season. If this is year-round permanent housing, it is necessary to correctly calculate for large loads.

Types of cesspools and their choice

Cesspools are of the following types:

Which option to choose? For infrequent use, choose a hole from the bottom if the soil permits. Sealed tanks avoid odor and contamination, but they are expensive to maintain and require monthly (or, in the case of dishwashers and hot tubs, weekly) cleanings. The septic tank is environmentally friendly, and has no special contraindications. Having decided, we turn to the study of the technology of creating cesspools.

We take into account the norms and rules of arrangement

To achieve a certain level of security, you need to think through all the nuances. Otherwise, there is a risk of creating a threat to the landscape, the arrangement of a private house, and the health of residents. The following important points are taken into account:

• A well with water should be at least 30 m from the pit. The level of the pit should be lower. This avoids problems with drinking water contamination.
• With a large amount of waste, it is not allowed to make a pit without a bottom. The limit established by the norms is 1 cubic meter of waste per day.
• The pit should be in a place where a sewage truck can easily drive up. The distance should be closer than 4 m. Depth - no more than 3 m, otherwise the hose will not be enough to pick up all the waste.
• It is necessary to achieve the optimal density of closing the lid. Especially important for the winter period. It is recommended to use heaters.

Compliance with state sanitary standards will avoid serious problems. A self-made sewer cesspool should not harm the soil, have leaks in unacceptable places, and have an unpleasant odor.

Eternal cesspool: creation technology

There is a technology of eternal cesspool. Durability of use is achieved by special arrangement of the pit. In accordance with technology, it is made without a bottom. It is sprinkled with medium-sized gravel. The creation of such a hole must be taken care of in advance. The overflow is connected to the sewerage system. The "eternity" of such cesspools is determined by the selected materials. The purified liquid goes into the ground through a filter made of sand from crushed stone. Residues are processed by microorganisms. This is an environmentally friendly and efficient way.

Making blocks from tires - the simplest option

Used car tires are used in the sewer system and the creation of cesspools, they save various kinds of costs. A do-it-yourself cesspool in a private house is done according to the following scheme:

• digging a pit;
• tires are interconnected with waterproof glue;
• joints are completely sealed;
• the bottom is not made, instead the aforementioned filter is created.

Creating a pit with concrete rings

Let's figure out how to make a cesspool in a private house. To create a sewer, efforts will be required, but the option with a simple absorbing pit (with concrete rings) is the easiest and is often used in summer cottages. You can build a cesspool according to this scheme:

• concrete rings are purchased in the amount of 3 pieces;
• a pit breaks out with a depth not exceeding 3 m, a diameter of 80 cm more than that of reinforced concrete rings;
• the central axis must remain free, a concrete screed is made around the perimeter (the base for the rings);
• holes are drilled in the lower ring: each 5 cm in diameter, made 10 cm apart;
• the bottom is covered with a filter composition of crushed stone, sand, gravel, broken bricks - about 1 meter;
• outside the pit is filled with the same composition;
• a plate with two holes is installed - for a pipe and a hatch, pumping will be carried out through it.

There is another scheme: the creation of tank walls from bricks or gas silicate blocks. But this will take a lot of effort. A sewer pit made of concrete requires a crane to install concrete rings. You choose. Another option: a cesspool in the country is made using metal barrels. Service life reaches 60 years.

How to create a hermetic structure?

To create airtight conditions, the same actions are performed, but no holes need to be made at the bottom. On the contrary, it needs to be concreted and strengthened. A concrete mesh is laid on the bottom in advance. The walls inside are sealed with bitumen, and outside they are coated with clay. The same is done in the case when the walls are made of bricks. They can be plastered.

Please note: before you build a pit, do not forget about the hole that serves to bring the sewer pipe. It is done below the freezing level, which is determined by the weather service. To do this, you need to make references. The incoming pipeline must be sloped so that the waste moves towards the built pit in a natural way.

Finished tanks

Does the arrangement of a cesspool in a private house seem like a difficult task for you? It can be simplified by using conventional wastewater tanks. Then it remains only to arrange the pipeline at an angle, to dig a foundation pit. Order a ready-made tank, it is buried in the ground. If necessary, it is strengthened, a concrete base is used at the cesspools.

A few words about the features of the process

Cesspools dig for about a week if you do it yourself. Earthworks can take longer. The walls must be even, the pit itself is made square or rectangular. The space around the tank helps provide additional protection from groundwater. Before you properly make a cesspool, it is important to take care of the pipeline. You can't let the trees get in the way.

Summing up

We considered several options for a sewerage device for a private house. There are many options for arranging a cesspool; there are expensive multi-chamber septic tanks with a powerful cleaning system. There is only one basic scheme: you need to prepare for heavy earthworks and dig a foundation pit - then half the battle is done. You need to be patient, and then you will understand that you can make a hole on your own!

Living in a city apartment is good because there are usually no problems with the discharge of effluents. In this regard, private houses are lagging behind, since they do not have a central drainage system, and the only way to ensure comfortable living is to equip a cesspool into which waste products would be dumped.

Without a cesspool, sewage discharged to nearby areas will quickly pollute the soil and can harm not only nature, but also people.

Classification of cesspools

There are several options for the design of the cesspool, so you should first deal with them.

1. A simple pit is a structure without a bottom in which the liquid is absorbed by the earth. This option is the most popular, because pumping in this case is carried out quite rarely. But with increased water consumption (over 1 m³ per day), the earthen "filter" simply will not cope. Moreover, this is environmentally unsafe, especially if toilet drains are diverted into it. Of course, it can be filled up from time to time, but this will reduce the usable volume, and the characteristic sewer smell will still be present.

   

2. The sealed pit needs periodic cleaning, but it is absolutely safe for the environment. The arrangement of a sealed structure is much more complicated than described above, and the costs increase, but the numerous advantages fully justify all this.

   

3. - a modern analogue of a cesspool. Its bottom is laid out with gravel, stones or brickwork, which allows mechanical water purification (read: the soil is not polluted). Moreover, the filling of the pit is rather slow.

   

Now let's find out how to make a cesspool.

Arrangement of a brick cesspool

Before proceeding directly to construction, determine a suitable location and calculate the required dimensions of the structure.

Stage one. Location selection

The construction of a cesspool in a suburban area is regulated by SNiP. The location of the pit, as well as the distances to certain buildings, are clearly regulated by sanitary standards. When planning, these requirements must be taken into account.

1. The distance between the pit and the fence should exceed 1 m.
2. The distance to the premises in which people are planned to live should be at least 12 m.
3. If it is planned to create a simple pit, that is, without a bottom, then the distance from it to the nearest well or well should exceed 30 m.

Based on these requirements, select the optimal place, and then proceed to the calculation of dimensions.

Stage two. Dimensions

There are a number of parameters that need to be taken into account when calculating the dimensions of a future structure.

1. First of all, the sizes depend on the type of rocks that occur in a particular area. And if the soil consists mainly of permeable rock (for example, marl), then the volume of the structure should be 40% of the waste that is produced during the month. And if these are rocks that do not pass moisture well (for example, clay), then the volume should be equal to the monthly norm + a small margin.
2. This also includes the number of permanent residents of the house. On average, one person produces 180 liters of wastewater per day. And if the family consists of, say, 3 people, then the monthly volume of wastewater will be 12 m³.
3. According to SNiP, the distance to the surface should be at least 1 m. If this condition is not met, the sewage can go beyond the structure, and unpleasant odors will definitely appear.
4. The depth should be a maximum of 3 m. This is the optimal depth, because sooner or later you will have to resort to the help of sewers for cleaning. And if the pit is airtight, then such cleaning will need to be carried out several times a month.

Stage three. Preparing the necessary equipment

The work will require:

• bayonet and shovel;
• trowel, container for mixing cement mortar;
• roulette;
• cord with small wooden pegs;
• building level;
• stairs.

Stage four. Digging a pit

You can cope with the construction of a cesspool on your own, without resorting to the help of a construction team with special equipment. This will save you a lot. But remember: you will have to manually remove about 20 m³ of earth.

On a note! If possible, a hole should be dug at the stage of digging a foundation pit for the foundation of the house. After that, only a small part of the work remains.

Mark the perimeter of the future structure. Often the width of the pit is 1 m, and the depth is 1.5 m. The length depends on the volume of wastewater. You can distribute the fertile layer of soil over the site, the rest will have to be taken out. Leave only 1.5 m³ for backfilling the floor.

Pit excavation almost complete

At the same stage, a trench should be dug into which the sewer pipe will be laid.

Stage five. Base

If you plan to build a sealed sewage pit, then arrange a “cushion” of sand 15 cm thick at the bottom of the pit. Lay a layer of concrete of the same thickness on top of the sand, then pierce the solution with a sharp object to remove air bubbles. Then it remains only to lay a 4-centimeter cement-sand screed over the concrete.

You may be interested in information about what it looks like

Wait for the base to dry completely, then lay the sewer pipe to remove sewage.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Stage six. Wall masonry

We’ll make a reservation right away that you don’t have to try too hard on the quality of the masonry, since no one will see it anyway. Do it in ¼ or ½ bricks, in a checkerboard pattern, use a cement-sand mortar. On both sides, plaster the masonry with the same mortar - this will extend the basic operational life of the structure. Bandage the corners.

Having finished with the masonry, isolate the walls with bituminous mastic.

Stage seven. overlap

Follow the steps below to mount the cover.

Step 1. First, dig in the soil about 20 cm on each side - this will provide additional support for the overlapping slab.

Step 2 Build the formwork. It is advisable to use corrugated board for this, so that the overlap is as rigid as possible. Make the formwork also around the hatch and the hole for the ventilation pipe.

Step 3. Lay the reinforcing bars, maintain a distance of about 10-15 cm. Bandage the intersecting bars using steel wire.

Step 4. Fill the floor with concrete mortar, level it.

Bayonet the concrete so that it completely fills the reinforcing mesh. After pouring the solution to the desired thickness, wait for the strength to set. This often takes at least 28 days.

On a note! On top of the floor, you can lay a layer of waterproofing material - for example, roofing felt or PE film.

Stage eight. Backfill

Once the concrete has gained strength, proceed to backfill the cesspool. It is advisable to use clay soil for this in order to create additional protection of groundwater from runoff. It is possible to lay thermal insulation material (for example, expanded polystyrene sheet) on the ceiling, and fill the soil on top. Finally, install the ventilation pipe.

On a note! It is advisable to build a double hatch - this will prevent the spread of an unpleasant odor, especially in the warm season. Install the first cover at ground level, the second - at the level of the overlapping slab. You can fill the space between the covers with slag or expanded clay.

from concrete rings

There is another option - it costs more, but the finished design will look more organic. Brick pits are often rectangular or square, but the use of reinforced concrete rings allows you to achieve a perfectly round shape. This will prevent excessive load on the walls and, as a result, their destruction. The only drawback of the option is that special equipment may be required for work, because concrete cylinders weigh a lot.

Stage one. Selection of rings

Today, concrete rings are produced in several modifications that differ from each other in diameter (it varies between 70-250 cm). For a cesspool, products with a diameter of 1 m and with the same height are most suitable. For an average house, you will need five rings, the total useful volume of which will be 5 m³. If, according to calculations, the volume should be large, then take other reinforced concrete rings or buy products with a larger diameter.

Such rings are also classified according to the design features into two large groups:

• flat;
• with a lock.

In the first case, the edges of the products are ordinary, flat, and in the second case, they are equipped with tongue-and-groove locks. Rings with a lock are very convenient, because they not only provide ease of installation, but also reliably seal the entire pit.

On a note! In the manufacture of reinforced concrete rings, at least "five hundredth" cement and a metal reinforcing frame are used. There are also products with a lid and bottom, which greatly facilitates construction.

Stage two. Construction

Step 1. First, dig a pit. It is important that its dimensions are approximately 40 cm larger than the diameter of the rings. The depth of the pit should exceed the total height of all rings by about 25-30 cm.

Step 2. Level and compact the bottom of the pit, then fill it with a 2-cm layer of coarse sand. Pour the sand with water, compact. So you will create a kind of "pillow", on which further installation will be carried out.

Step 3. Further events will develop according to one of two possible scenarios:

• the bottom ring is installed first;
• ordinary rings are installed.

In the first case, you will get rid of the laborious procedure for pouring the base; this is the simplest option, so it is recommended to use this. But if for one reason or another it was not possible to purchase a ring with a bottom, then you will have to fill the bottom with concrete.

To do this, lay reinforcing bars in the form of a lattice at the bottom of the pit, and then tie them together with steel wire.

On a note! Raise the reinforcing mesh above the surface so that it (the mesh) is completely in the body of the concrete base. Use pieces of bricks for this.

Then proceed to prepare the solution. For this, mix cement, water, sand and gravel in a ratio of 1: 0.5: 2: 3. Use a minimum of "four hundred" cement, and if the brand is lower, then reduce the volume of fillers. For mixing, you can use a concrete mixer, or you can do the work manually using a shovel. But remember: the solution must be prepared in such a volume that the bottom of the pit is filled in one go, without subsequent kneading.

Pour concrete, spread it over the entire surface. Poke it with a sharp object to remove air bubbles.

Stage three. Installation of rings

Do not lower the rings manually into the pit, because they weigh quite a lot. This will require a crane. Each ring has four fasteners made in the form of ears (for which the products are lifted). For the manufacture of such ears, a wire rod is used, the diameter of which is at least 0.6 cm.

On a note! The rings should be lifted at the same time by all the ears, and the cables should be evenly stretched. The whole procedure must be carried out carefully, slowly.

Once the first ring is down, line it up and set it up with a spirit level. After that, you can drop the rest. Seal the joints between the rings with a cement-based sealant, and treat all the walls of the structure - external and internal - with bituminous mastic.

At the end, a cover is installed. When the truck crane lifts and sets the cover in place, seal the joints between it and the last cylinder. After that, fill in the voids between the walls of the structure and the walls of the pit.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated about this. Of course, you will have to perform labor-intensive earthworks and pay for the rental of special equipment, but good sewerage in a private house is simply necessary, so all costs are fully justified.

Video - How to make a cesspool with your own hands

Reinforced concrete rings or brick - what to choose?

Each of the options is quite simple to implement, but both concrete rings and brickwork have their own advantages.

1. The strength and practicality of a cesspool made of reinforced concrete rings is noticeably higher.
2. A brick pit rarely needs sewage cleaning.
3. The rings can withstand a greater load than brickwork, even if it is made in a “chess-like” way.

As a result, we note that the construction of a cesspool on the site requires a solid investment, at least if we are talking about a really good design, for the manufacture of which high-quality materials are used. You should not save on materials that will be in contact with moisture (do not use cinder blocks or silicate bricks in construction), because everyone knows that the miser pays more than once. Act carefully, if necessary, ask for help from friends and acquaintances, do not rush - and the sewage pit will serve you for many years.

Table. Water consumption for a private house. The choice of the volume of the cesspool

Good luck with your work!

The device of a storage septic tank made of concrete rings

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When building a private house away from the sewer, the question arises: how to organize the storage and disposal of wastewater. Cesspool is designed to solve this problem. There are two main types of sewage pits: a sealed (or waterproofed) pit and a pit without a bottom (drainage). The sealed pit does not let wastewater into its environment and is designed for areas with sandy soil, it is also designed with a large (more than 1 cubic meter per day) flow volume.

To clean the waterproofed pit twice a month, a special sewage pumping machine is called. The cost of use is expensive. With a small amount of wastewater, a profitable solution would be to build a cesspool without a bottom; such a drainage pit does not require pumping. It is quite simple to design it with your own hands, which will save a lot of money.

Requirements

Sanitary standards for the placement of a cesspool drainage pit on the site

It is necessary to carefully consider the choice of the location of the cesspool, since in case of violation of sanitary standards, administrative liability is threatened. The pit should not be located outside the developer's land.

For its construction, a flat surface is chosen, with a hilly terrain, the lowlands of the site are chosen. It is desirable that the pit has access to a sewage machine for pumping out in case of overflow with waste. More precise placement instructions:

1. 4-5 meters from a residential building.
2. 3 meters from the fence, road, trees.
3. At least 25 meters from a well, well, spring.
4. 30 meters from the nearest body of water.

Depending on the type of soil on which the waste pit is located, the regulated distance to sources of drinking water varies. When placed on sandy soils, it is allowed to build a cesspool no closer than 50 meters to the wells. With clay - from 20 meters.

Pit volume

To calculate the volume of the waste pit, it is necessary to take into account the number of people living in the house. The capacity is calculated based on the fact that one person consumes 170 liters of water per day. Thus, for three people, a sewage pit with a volume of 10 cubic meters is needed.

As experience shows, if the pit is equipped with a good drainage system or is located on sandy soil, a smaller volume of 6-7 cubic meters is quite enough. If you dig a hole with your own hands, it is better to think over the reserve volume in advance so that excess drains do not go beyond the drainage hole and pumping is not needed.

Excavation

Earthwork is best started in the middle of summer, with stable dry weather. A pit is being prepared for the future drain pit. Most often, it measures 2 meters high, wide and long (8 cubic meters). You can dig it both with your own hands and with the help of an excavator.

First, the top layer of fertile soil is removed, it is better to distribute it in the garden. Subsequently, the soil is removed. If the soil around the pit is sandy, you should be wary of the collapse of the walls of the pit. To avoid this, you can prepare wooden shields and temporarily place them with emphasis along the walls of the pit.

After the required depth is reached, it is recommended to leave the pit for two days. The bottom of the cesspool must be at least one meter above the autumn/spring groundwater level. The permissible depth of pits of this type is from 1 to 3 meters.

Drainage

In order for wastewater to quickly leave the pit into the soil and not need to cause pumping, you need to prepare high-quality drainage. First, sand is poured into the bottom of the pit. The thickness of such a layer should be 30 cm. After that, the bottom of the pit is lined with a special synthetic fabric (geotextile), the edges of the fabric should overlap the walls of the pit.

Areas adjacent to each other are sewn together. A layer of crushed stone 10 - 20 cm thick is poured onto the fabric. The crushed stone is covered with a second layer of synthetic fabric. The edges of the first and second layers are sewn together or smeared with bitumen. In this form, the drainage layer remains until the pit is used.

If a cesspool is created by hand for a country toilet (without pumping out), drainage can be simplified. A layer of sand (30 cm) is poured onto the bottom of the pit, a layer of crushed stone (20 cm) is poured on top of it.

Connecting a sewer pipe

When mounting a sewer pipe, attention should be paid to the height difference between the level of the end of the pipe in the pit and the level of the pipe in the house. It should not be less than a meter. With a small height difference, the drains will stagnate in the pipe, and blockages are possible.

It is best if the pipe extends outside the house underground. The depth of the pipe should be deeper than the layer of winter freezing of the soil, so that during frosts the drains do not freeze, blocking the pipe. If the pipe comes to the surface, it should be properly insulated.

Walls

There are various options for the walls of the cesspool. They are lined with bricks, logs, concrete rings and slate. The choice of wall material depends on the personal desire of the builder.

brick walls

Most often, the walls of the cesspool are lined with bricks. This material has a number of advantages: easy accessibility, ease of laying, strength. It should be noted that not all bricks are equally well suited for arranging a cesspool. Silicate brick is characterized by low moisture resistance, so it should never be used for this purpose. What can not be said about ceramic bricks, its varieties are completely suitable.

Masonry can be done with your own hands, with ordinary mortar, but the bricklayer must leave small gaps between the sides of the bricks and not fill them with cement. This is necessary to filter the effluents and pass them into the soil surrounding the pit. Outside the masonry, leave 30 cm of space and fill it with broken bricks, gravel and sand to improve the filtration of runoff water.

Log walls / plank walls

In suburban areas, the walls of cesspools for a street toilet (without pumping out) or others are most often covered with shields from boards, bars, or a small log house is made. This material is less durable, but will cost much cheaper than other analogues. You can deal with the design with your own hands.

If it is decided to line the pit with boards, first prepare 4 large bars. The size is better to choose 10x10. They are covered with a special solution - protection against bark beetles and rot (if the bars are made of larch, protective equipment is not needed, this tree has not rotted for decades). Slightly sharpen one end of each bar, this is necessary when attaching the bar to the ground of the day of the pit. The bars must correspond to the depth and have a margin of length to deepen them into the bottom of the pit.

After the bars are placed at the corners of the pit and fixed, you can start mounting the boards. The strongest and thickest boards (if different sizes are used) are placed closer to the bottom of the pit; later, it is at the very bottom that the earth will exert the strongest pressure on the walls. The boards covered with a special protective solution are nailed so that the bars are inside the wooden box.

It is recommended to maintain a distance of 1-2 cm between the boards to allow runoff water to enter the soil. It is much more convenient to put together a wooden box outside the pit, and then lower it. But this will require the help of a crane or a large number of people, because the mass of the structure will exceed 400 kg.

IMPORTANT! A log cabin is constructed in a similar way. It should only be noted that the thickness of the logs will significantly reduce the volume of the drain pit. To avoid this, it is necessary to review the volume of the pit.

Walls made of concrete rings

For long-term use of the drain pit, it is best to construct it from concrete rings. Concrete is the most stable and unpretentious material.

It will not work to create a structure from concrete rings with your own hands; you need to take care of their purchase in advance. And also you need to calculate in advance in which ring and where there will be a hole for the pipe, it is punched out before immersion. When there are rings, the question arises: how to lower them into the hole (It is worth remembering that the hole should not be completely dug out at the time the first ring is lowered). There is a wide range of possibilities here, from the use of a crane (the mass of one ring reaches 600 kg) and winches, to self-immersion of the rings. A more economical option would be to deal with this problem yourself.

First, a pit is dug with a height equal to the height of one concrete ring. One of its edges is made partially flat (beveled) for a convenient descent of the structure. A ring is rolled up to the beveled edge in such a way that the axis of the ring is directed towards the center of the pit.

With the help of a lever from a bar (recommended length of 3 m), the ring is turned over, pulled to the sloping edge and gently slides down in a vertical position. For the convenience of descending on a gentle edge, you can lay out boards. After the first ring has taken its position, the builder goes down and begins to deepen the hole from the inside of the ring.

Gradually, with an increase in the depth of the pit, the ring will smoothly settle. After that, the same operation is performed with the next ring. It is very important to monitor the strictly horizontal level of the structure when deepening the pit. After lowering all the rings, holes are drilled in their walls (recommended 5 cm) every 30 cm in the vertical direction, they are intended for the release of sewage.

Slate wall construction

A simple and original way is to lay out the walls of the drain pit with slate sheets. This material is not afraid of moisture, but is quite fragile, which must be considered when choosing. The design will not be complicated, you can handle it yourself. Produce a blank of four iron corners (longitudinally bent strip of metal), holes are drilled in them for future fastening.

Four sheets of slate (it is better to choose a special flat one, and not wavy for roofs, wavy is less durable) are lowered into the pit. Next, the assembly is carried out: the corners are screwed to the slate leaves with self-tapping screws (to two leaves on the opposite side), all the slate leaves are screwed together and the frame is ready. Holes are drilled to release wastewater.

This information will be useful not only for the improvement of the summer cottage, but will also help to design a cesspool for a private house with your own hands. Such a pit will not require pumping, which will significantly save the cost of its construction.