Ways to connect a storage water heater. Connecting the water heater to the water supply - the scheme and procedure for the work. Connection to steel pipes

Hot water supply in an apartment, country house or private house is rarely stable and uninterrupted. Repairs, accidents, breaks for pressure testing or other seasonal work cause frequent problems with the supply of hot water. In cottages, private houses, it is often not even possible to connect to the highway, which forces us to look for other options. You can connect a water heater to eliminate such problems, but it creates a considerable load on the power grid, the condition of which should be taken into account when choosing the power of the device.

How to connect a water heater to the water supply and electrical network with your own hands

The procedure for connecting electric heaters is described in detail in the user manual that is attached to the device. But, before proceeding with the acquaintance, it should be correct. Consider the types of boilers, their features and connection rules.

flow type

Flowing electric heaters are compact devices that do not take up much space (which is especially important for small rooms) and are easy to use. They produce spot heating of the pipeline section, without accumulating water in the tank. At the same time, the load on the power grids from them is maximum with a power consumption range of 3–27 kW. It is often said that the use of flow heaters can ruin the owner, since the amount of electricity required for their operation is very large. In practice, it turns out that the maintenance of such devices is not much more expensive than any other, since water is heated directly during use, so the duration of high loads on the power grid is relatively short. The disadvantage of flow heaters is the limited use - basically they can only be used for shower heads or faucets.

Scheme of connecting the instantaneous water heater to the mains

Installation of a flow heater can conditionally be divided into several stages:

1. Choice of location. Flowers should not be installed far from the points of water intake in order to exclude heat loss when water flows through pipelines. At the same time, it is also impossible to place it too close to taps or shower heads; splashes of water should not fall on the device. It is necessary to choose the installation location so that it is convenient to use both the water heater and the tap (shower).
2. Connection to the water supply system. Two options can be used here - a quick connection of the device to a shower hose or a more complex one - through a tee for a washing machine, which opens up great possibilities. In the first case, only a shower can be provided with hot water, in the second - several points of water intake. It is also possible to make a tap from the cold water pipeline to supply water to the inlet pipe of the device, but this option is rather time consuming, it is advisable to use it only for high power devices.
3. Power connection. This moment is the most important. Flowers are powerful devices; conventional lines cannot be used for their operation. It is necessary to carry out a separate circuit with a thick copper wire with a cross section of about 4 mm 2 (for powerful devices from 9 kW - 6 mm 2). You will also need a separate machine (RCD - residual current device).

For any type of heater, grounding is required. The use of conventional sockets is excluded when the power of the device is higher than 3 kW.

Installation of the device on the wall is carried out according to the user manual.

1. Usually it is required to remove the cover, mark the centers of the holes, drill them and insert dowels. You can not install the heater on drywall or thin wooden partitions, you need a solid support - a concrete or brick wall.
2. After installation, it is necessary to connect the cold water supply pipes (to the heater inlet) and to the outlet - a shower hose or hot water pipeline going to the taps.
3. To adjust the heating mode, it is recommended to install a tap at the inlet (on the cold water supply). A faucet must not be installed at the outlet, unless the instructions indicate otherwise.

The place of the instantaneous water heater in the water supply system

How to connect a storage water heater

Accumulative electric heaters are containers with water heated by heating elements (tubular electric heaters). They are metal tubes that are filled with a conductive electrical insulator with a conductive thread in the center. Heating elements heat the liquid by converting electrical energy into heat.

When using boilers with large tanks, you do not have to wait for the heating of the next portion of water with active water draw. But, the larger the volume, the greater the load on the power grid, and, accordingly, the cost of paying bills. In addition, the dimensions of storage boilers with large capacities are quite impressive and require a spacious room.

The power consumption of storage heaters is relatively low, about 1–2 kW. However, when purchasing a boiler, you should carefully examine the wiring so that the additional load does not affect its condition in a fatal way.

The boiler is connected to the mains using an RCD

Storage devices have indisputable advantages over flowers:

• The ability to provide several points of water intake, create a full-fledged hot water system in a house or apartment.
• The thermally insulated housing allows you to keep hot water for a long time even during power outages.

There are also disadvantages:

• Water heating time increases, especially when using large containers.
• The dimensions and weight of the heaters place increased demands on the supporting structures or surfaces.

Installation of storage electric heaters:

1. Installing the device. It should be carried out in a convenient place where there is access to the device for replacing burned-out heating elements or other repairs, maintenance of the device. There are no fundamental requirements for the proximity of water points, so you can install a storage heater so that it does not violate the aesthetics of interior design, if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bhousing allows it. Devices with a small tank volume can be installed under the sink in the bathroom or in the kitchen. The only limiting factor is the location of water pipes and electrical wiring, but these issues are quite easily resolved.
2. Connection of input and output pipelines.
3. Power connection. To do this, it is necessary to provide a separate line with an RCD. Continuous loads can damage worn wiring. The cross section of the line should be calculated based on the power consumption of the heater.

The distance from the socket to the sink or bath must be at least 1 m.

Connecting to the water supply can be done in two ways:

• Connection of the cold water pipeline to the inlet through a splitter. The outlet is connected to the internal DHW system of the house. This option is good for a private house where there is no centralized hot water supply.
• Inserting the outlet pipe into the DHW system. Cold water from the riser is supplied to the heater inlet, and hot water from the outlet goes to the domestic hot water pipe. The connection to the hot water riser is blocked by a tap for this time. The method is good for houses or apartments with existing centralized water supply for both cold water and hot water. It becomes possible to provide oneself with hot water during shutdowns or interruptions, but, if necessary, use centralized resources.

The water pressure in the centralized cold water system may be too high for the heater. It is necessary to clarify this issue by studying the passport or instructions for the device, and, if necessary, install a reduction gear. If there is no centralized supply of cold water in a private house, then the heater can be connected to a storage tank installed at a height (usually on a roof or a separate structure). The main condition for such a connection is to ensure that the height difference between the tank and the heater is at least 2 m. If this requirement cannot be met, at least raise the tee (splitter) above the level of the heater. The outlet pipeline of the tank through a tee is connected to the cold water distribution and to the heater inlet, and the appliance outlet is connected to the hot water distribution.

From the riser with cold water, the pipe is led to the boiler, and from it already to the points of water intake

Video: installation of a storage boiler

Connecting the combination unit

The design of combined devices (they are also called indirect heating boilers) combines a flow type water heater and a heat exchanger. Hot water is passed through a coil located inside the main water tank, giving it thermal energy. Due to the large length of the coil, which provides a large area of ​​​​contact of the walls with water from the tank, the heating is quite efficient, allowing you to get enough hot water.

Combined water heaters are a system of several nodes

Since the coolant is produced according to the principle of a flow heater, the energy consumption will be high, which will require the presence of electrical wiring of sufficient cross section in good condition.

To supply a private house, it is not advisable to purchase a large heater, since during the heating of water in the tank a flow heating mechanism will be activated, which will create a rather long and high load on the power grid. It will be necessary to create a separate line with powerful RCDs, the wire section is selected according to the total power of the device with a 10% margin of safety. Large and long-term loads mean high costs for hot water, which is not available to everyone. In addition, the general depreciation of electrical networks does not encourage the use of large combined heaters.

Installation of devices is carried out in accordance with the design features

There are wall and floor heaters. As a rule, wall-mounted ones have a smaller volume and weight, while floor-mounted ones have large dimensions. Connecting the device to the water supply practically does not differ from the method of connecting storage devices, and the power supply features are the same as for flow heaters.

Video: principle of operation and connection of the combined unit

Features of operation and maintenance

The main problem is the choice of the most suitable device that can provide the hot water needs of the house and not empty the owner's wallet too much. Before buying, you should roughly calculate the allowable amount of expenses, take into account the cost of electricity, the daily need for hot water. The purchased device should provide comfort, and not create problems.

The operation of the heaters is carried out in accordance with the instructions that are attached to the devices. It should be carefully studied and strictly observed the rules of use. This will help to increase the service life of the heater, eliminate errors, and reduce wasted energy consumption.

Most modern devices can be controlled using a remote control. Simpler samples, especially those that use heating elements, are adjusted by direct contact, so it is recommended to install them in places accessible for repair work so as not to turn a simple setup into a complex and time-consuming procedure.

Over time, lime deposits form on the surface of the heating elements and the walls of the containers. It reduces the efficiency of the heating elements, forcing the automation to overload them with work, which is why they fail prematurely. To clean scale and plaque, you should use special tools. From the outside, the surface is wiped with a damp cloth, if the instructions allow - a mild detergent is used. Maintenance and external cleaning is carried out only when the power supply is switched off.

Connecting an electric water heater is not very difficult and can be done independently. The main task is to choose the right device, taking into account the state of the power grid, the needs of users in hot water and the capabilities of the equipment. The correct selection of the device will be able to provide the home with hot water and not overload the power grid, while maintaining their performance and allowing the owner to save money on electricity.

A water heater has long ceased to be considered a luxury item. Currently, such equipment is installed in almost every home. The most popular are flow and storage electric water heaters. Your attention is invited to an overview of the main advantages and disadvantages of the mentioned equipment, as well as instructions for its independent installation and proper use.

Advantages

1. Compact dimensions. The flow heater does not take up much space. At the same time, models of heaters are available for sale, equipped with a mixer and a shower head, which allows you to save additional money.
2. Fast heating. Unlike storage-type models, instantaneous heaters begin to produce warm water already 30-60 seconds after starting.
3. No restrictions on the volume of heated water. The user can get exactly the amount of hot water that he needs, unlike storage tanks, the volume of which is limited.
4. Relatively low price.

disadvantages

Instantaneous water heaters are best suited for houses and apartments equipped with electric stoves. In this case, the meter and wiring will already comply with regulatory requirements.

Advantages and disadvantages of storage heaters

Advantages

1. No need to modify the electrical network. The storage heater can be plugged into an ordinary electrical outlet.
2. Profitability. On average, storage water heaters consume about the same amount of electricity per hour of operation as an ordinary vacuum cleaner. At the same time, models with the ability to control the heating power are available for sale. The time required to prepare the required volume of water at the desired temperature directly depends on the installed power.
3. The possibility of arranging wiring for a bathroom and kitchen.

disadvantages

The only significant drawback of storage water heaters is their impressive dimensions. However, today manufacturing companies offer their consumers a large selection of heater models that save space. For example, if you wish, you can purchase a flat unit.

Installation of instantaneous water heater

The process of installing an instantaneous water heater does not require the performer to have any serious skills. There are two options for mounting such a unit: for temporary use and for permanent operation.

Temporary connection

This option is usually used when it is necessary to obtain heated water in the absence of the possibility of connecting to a central water supply. After the appearance of such an opportunity, the water heater is easily turned off or even dismantled until the next use - it does not take much time.

The most convenient for temporary use are models that were originally equipped with a mixer and a shower head.

First step. Fix the heater in a convenient place with dowels and screws.

Second step. Remove the watering can from the domestic shower hose and connect the hose to the water heater inlet.

Third step. Connect the complete watering can to the outlet of the water heater.

As a result, the cold liquid will enter the heater from the mixer, heat up when passing through it, and leave the complete watering can already warm.

Permanent connection

This option is used in situations where the heater is planned to be operated regularly. In this case, the unit is connected to the water supply system.

The connection is carried out according to the scheme already considered, however, the supply and output of the liquid are fixed permanently. For such a connection, special tees are used, as well as stopcocks.

As a result, heated water will come out of the mixer.

After installing the heater, make sure that all connections are tight and only then accept the device for permanent use.

It is important to understand not only the order of connecting an instantaneous water heater, but also the features of its use.

The main rule: the flow-through water heater can only be turned on after the heater coil is completely filled with water.

If the heater coil is not covered with liquid in sufficient volume, it will break and it will become impossible to use the device.

Regardless of the option you choose to connect the flow heater, the use of such a device is carried out in the following order:

Turning off the appliance is carried out in a similar order - you turn off the heater, wait until cold liquid begins to flow from the shower head, and only then turn off the water supply.

Installation of storage heater

In the case of storage heaters, temporary installation is not provided. Of course, you can connect an ordinary hose with a watering can to the outlet of warm water, but it will be categorically inconvenient to use such a unit.

First step. Choose a suitable place to install the water heater and check the wall.

Flow models are quite light in weight. Cumulative ones will exert a much more significant load on the wall. Therefore, when choosing a place to install a heater, you need to pay attention not only to the degree of convenience of piping, but also to the strength of the surface.

As a rule, heaters up to 200 l are fixed to the wall. Tanks of larger volume require only floor installation. If the heater has a volume of more than 50 liters, it is recommended to fix it exclusively to a load-bearing wall.

Second step. Prepare all the necessary tools for installing the water heater.

You will need:

• puncher (if the wall is concrete) or impact electric drill (if the wall is brick);
• marker;
• measuring tape;
• drill for tiles (if the surface at the place of the future attachment of the heater is tiled);
• protective valve;
• FUM tape;
• dowels and fastening hooks;
• building level.

In the presence of the required wiring with pre-assembled tees and shut-off valves, the installation of the storage heater is carried out in an extremely simple sequence.

First step. Step back about 150-200 mm from the ceiling surface and leave marks on the wall for future holes. Thanks to this gap, you can conveniently lift the water heater for hanging and removing the tank.

Second step. Armed with a drill (perforator) with a suitable drill, make holes in the wall with a depth corresponding to the length of the mounting hooks.

Third step. Drive the dowels into the prepared holes, and then screw the screws into them. Be sure to leave a gap to accommodate the water heater mounting plate.

Fourth step. Install the tank on the mounts.

Fifth step. Install a safety valve on the cold fluid inlet. With its help, excessive pressure will be removed from the system. Connect a tube to drain excess fluid to the sewer pipe. Also, this tube can be gently inserted into the toilet bowl.

Sixth step. Connect the cold water pipe to the water heater inlet. The entrance is marked blue. Connect only through the safety valve. To the outlet (marked in red), connect the ready-made hot liquid outlet pipe.

Again, pay attention to the importance of the safety valve. Without such a device, the tank may be seriously damaged or even ruptured due to excessive pressure during the preparation of hot water.

If there is a protective valve, the excess pressure will simply be released and the device will continue to operate under normal conditions. Also, with the help of a safety valve, you can quickly and conveniently drain water from the heater when it is necessary to perform maintenance and repair work on the equipment.

Thus, the installation of a water heater is not particularly difficult. If you wish, you can independently install and connect a storage model or a flow heater. It is enough just to follow the provisions of the presented guide and everything will definitely work out.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself water heater installation

Install flow water heater option good and not too difficult to perform. This publication will discuss the main theoretical issues and give practical advice on how and how to connect the boiler to the water supply.

It is hardly possible to call living in a house or apartment fully comfortable if for some reason, temporarily or permanently, but there is no hot water supply. Even residents of high-rise buildings in large cities are not insured against this - accidents occur, interruptions in the operation of boiler houses, planned supply stops, etc. And about the inhabitants of the private sector or suburban housing, the conversation is generally special - all the problems of providing themselves with hot water completely fall on the owners.

How is it solved? Heating water in a saucepan is not even discussed ... But it would probably be wiser to always have at least a small supply of heated water - that is, install a storage water heater, in other words, a boiler.

Types of boilers used in everyday life

So, leaving "out of the brackets" instantaneous water heaters, as well as outdated and inconvenient solid fuel"titans", let's pay attention to modern models of boilers. They can be divided into direct and indirect heating devices. And according to the type of energy carrier used, direct heating boilers are divided into gas and electric. In addition, there are models that combine several principles of work.

Boilers for direct heating

In installations of this type, the incoming energy carrier (electricity or natural gas) is consumed exclusively for the needs of hot water supply, without intermediate steps.

Gas storage boiler

Such a device is not very widespread - it is quite complicated to install, requires mandatory approval from the technical supervision authorities, it requires the construction of a system of one type or another, corresponding to supply ventilation to ensure normal gas combustion. In a number of regions, the presence of a special device - a gas analyzer - became a prerequisite for installation. All this does not add to their popularity with homeowners.

Nevertheless, such boilers still "have the right to exist", and in terms of efficiency, they, of course, are superior to electric ones.

What is the device of a gas storage boiler:

• Pos. 1 - a container in which heating and accumulation of hot water is carried out. It is supplied through a pipe (pos. 5), and the intake is through a branch pipe (pos. 6). Not shown in the diagram, but the water tank has a fairly thick outer casing with polyurethane foam insulation, which ensures long-term maintenance of the required water temperature.
• The water tank has a common lower heat exchange wall (pos. 2) with a combustion chamber in which a gas burner (pos. 3) is installed. In addition, heat exchange is carried out when hot combustion products pass through the central channel (pos. 9) before exiting the chimney (pos. 10 )
• The control device as part of the installed temperature sensor and thermostat (pos. 4) constantly monitors the level of water heating, as necessary, turning on or shutting off the gas supply to the burner (pos. 3).
• The safety group (pos. 7) necessarily includes an emergency valve, which will relieve excess pressure if the thermostat suddenly fails in its task of maintaining a certain temperature.
• To prevent the walls of the tank from becoming overgrown with scale, a magnesium anode (pos. 8) is installed in the boiler. This material has a much lower electrical potential, so free ions of salts dissolved in water will be deposited on it. These anodes are easy to change as needed.

So, despite the excellent performance, such boilers did not become “bestsellers”, as they are difficult to install, and their cost is much higher than that of conventional electric ones.

electric boiler

This type of storage boiler is the most popular among homeowners. Installation of such a device does not require tedious conciliatory procedures, significant alterations or construction and installation works. With a reliable line, any good owner who has a basic understanding of plumbing work can probably install an electric boiler.

How are electric boilers arranged? They may have a different layout, but the circuit diagram still remains the same:

• The outer body of the boiler (pos. 1) may have one or another decorative design. From separated from the internal water tank (pos. 3) with a layer of polyurethane foam thermal insulation (pos. 2).
• The supply of cold tap water is always carried out to the lower part of the tank through the welded pipe (pos. 4). To avoid creating turbulent fluid flows in the tank, the incoming water is distributed using a special diffuser (pos. 5).
• Hot water, on the contrary, is always taken from the top of the tank through the installed pipe (pos. 9 )
• Water heating occurs with the help of electric heating elements (heaters) of various types (pos. 7).
• The purpose of the magnesium anode (pos. 6) has already been described above.
• The temperature sensor (pos. 8) is connected by an electrical circuit to an electronic or electromechanical thermostat that provides water heating to the temperature set by the user.

Such a scheme of operation of the boiler shows itself perfectly in practice, if the device is chosen correctly, taking into account the need for power and volume. Electric boilers are available in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, they are quite compact, and most importantly, they have a very affordable price.

Indirect heating boilers

In those private houses (sometimes in city apartments) where an autonomous closed-type water heating system with a single-circuit boiler is installed, indirect heating boilers are often used for hot water needs. In these devices, the water that is used for domestic and hygienic needs (in other words, sanitary) receives heating not from direct heating, but from heat exchange with the heating circuit through which the liquid heat carrier (technical water or other liquid) circulates.

The principal device of an indirect heating boiler is shown in the diagram:

Outer shell (item 1) thermal insulation layer (item 2) and inner tank (item 3) — , all by analogy with a conventional direct heating boiler.

Through the branch pipe (pos. 4), cold sanitary water enters the tank, the flow of which is sprayed using a special baffle (pos. 5). Hot sanitary water is taken in through the pipe in the upper part of the boiler (pos. 6).

In addition, a circulation pipe (pos. 7) is usually provided. A separate additional contour is created, for example, through heated towel rail, with constant circulation of hot water. This achieves two goals: firstly, in the DHW pipe there is always hot water of approximately the same temperature; a in– secondly, such a scheme somewhat simplifies the rather complex system of maintaining the desired temperature for heating sanitary water.

Branch pipes pos. 8 and pos. 9 - tie-in to the house heating system, entrance and exit to the spiral heat exchanger (pos. 10), through which heat energy is transferred from the heating boiler to the hot water supply system. There may be more such "coils", for example, one is connected to the heating system, and the second - to the system of solar heat accumulators.

Boilers of large volume (more than 150 l) usually have an inspection window (pos. 11), closed with a flange plug. In this window, by the way, it is often possible to install an electric heater - a heating element, thus making the boiler more versatile.

Magnesium anode (pos. 12) is an indispensable element for all modern boilers.

An indirect heating boiler must necessarily have its own safety group, monitoring and control device (pos. 13), thermal sensors for generating control signals (pos. 14).

An indirect heating boiler may have a slightly different design, so-called "tank in tank» :

Boiler of indirect heating according to the principle "tank in a tank"

Everything is almost the same, only the circulation of the technical fluid of the heating system goes through the external vessel "A2. An internal tank "B" is installed inside it, in which sanitary water is heated. The surface of the inner tank is made corrugated to increase the area of ​​active heat exchange.

They are distinguished by high productivity (naturally, with the corresponding power of the heating boiler), efficiency. Alas, they also have many shortcomings. Firstly, they are “tied” to the heating system, and when warm days come and the boilers are turned off, they simply stop working. Secondly, such a boiler is a rather massive structure that takes up a lot of space, which is especially important for cramped conditions in city apartments. Probably, from the point of view of convenience, a double-circuit boiler still looks preferable. And thirdly, indirect heating boilers are somewhat “capricious” in terms of adjustments and maintaining the required temperature - they need a rather complicated and cumbersome control system and coordination with the heating circuit.

Combined boilers

Boilers of both direct and indirect heating have their own significant advantages and significant disadvantages. To fully take into account both those and others, to create a kind of "symbiosis" of both schemes - this is the task set by the developers of combined boilers.

The diagram shows one of the typical examples of such devices, a boiler from the SMART family of models.

As can be seen from the figure, this boiler is assembled according to the “indirect” “tank in tank” scheme, but additionally has its own electric heaters ( heating elements). They can be switched on, for example, when the heat energy of the heating system is not enough to raise the temperature of the sanitary water to the required level (often this happens when during the off-season, in autumn or spring, the heating boiler is not used at rated output). Naturally, when the heating season ends, the heating elements will bear the full burden of providing the house with hot water. On the one hand, it is convenient, on the other hand, the system is quite bulky, and besides, the combined boiler does not solve the problem of saving space - it also needs a lot of additional space.

So, to draw a line under the first section of the publication, we can state that the best choice in terms of ease of installation, reliability and ease of operation will still be an electric direct heating boiler. And the fact that it is somewhat less economical - this issue should be addressed by a prudent approach to the use of hot water.

Prices for popular models of water heaters

Water heaters

How to choose the right boiler

The range of modern household appliances stores can easily confuse you - which boiler model for an apartment should you prefer, what parameters should you rely on? It is clear that the device must "fit" into the interior of the room - however, this selection criterion should not become decisive in any way. First of all, attention is always paid to operational characteristics, materials for the manufacture of the main components, the availability and reliability of control, monitoring and emergency protection systems.

Required capacity of the water tank of the boiler

Boilers are produced in a wide variety of volumes - from mini-devices with a capacity of about 8 ÷ 10 liters, to powerful installations with storage tanks of 200 liters or more. The “more is better” principle here absolutely unacceptable. There is no point in overpaying for a completely unclaimed volume of heated water, and, in addition, wasting precious space in a cramped apartment. It is better to approach the choice from a practical point of view.

The volume of the heater should depend on the number and type of hot water points in the apartment or house, on the number of people living in it, so that the needs of all residents are met evenly and to the maximum extent, without any inconvenience to others.

Boilers are capable of heating water to very significant temperatures, close even to the boiling point. However, from the standpoint of economy and safety, +60 ° is considered the optimal level of heating. With. Let this value not seem small - this is very hot water, the temperature of which the hand cannot withstand. Naturally, such water needs to be diluted with cold water. The table below shows the approximate consumption of hot (60 °) water and, accordingly, diluted to a comfortable temperature:

Hygienic and household needs	Optimum water temperature (°C)	Approximate total water consumption (liters)	The required amount of water heated to 60 ° (liters)
Routine hand washing	37	1.5 ÷ 4	1 ÷ 3
Taking a shower	37	35 ÷ 50	17 ÷ 25
Bathing with a bath	40	150 ÷ ​​180	85 ÷ 120
Morning wash, brush teeth, shave	37	12 ÷ 15	5 ÷ 8
Washing kitchen utensils	50	15 ÷ 25	14 ÷ 17

Guided by these values ​​and knowing the number of people living in the house, armed with a calculator, you can calculate the required volume of the water heater, so that there is enough water for everyone without additional waiting for it to be heated. It is clear that in this case one should proceed from reasonable consumption - if someone needs to take a bath, then there will not be enough hot water for anyone else.

To simplify the calculation as much as possible, a table will be given by which you can quickly determine the recommended boiler volume for specific conditions:

Number of cohabiting water consumers	Number of residents taking evening showers directly one after another	The number and type of water intake points in the apartment (house)	Minimum allowable volume of storage boiler	Optimal boiler volume
one adult	-	only washing	10	30
one adult	1	Wash and shower	30	50
two adults	2	Wash and shower	50	80
Family: two adults and a child	3	Sink, dash and sink	80	100
Family: two adults and two children	4	sink, shower, sink, bath	100	120
Family: two adults and three children	5	sink, shower, sink, bath	120	150

Rated and maximum power of the water heater

It is clear that the more powerful the heating elements of the boiler, the more of them, the higher the total load and power consumption of the installation, the sooner the water will heat up to the set temperature. However, to strictly follow this approach - to choose a device with maximum power, would be a mistake. Do not forget that in-house electrical networks have certain load thresholds, exceeding which, at best, will cause constant operation of protective equipment, and at worst, overheating of the wiring and even the occurrence of a fire hazard.

For the conditions of apartments, private houses, a water heater with a capacity of up to 2500 W will be sufficient. For conventional home electrical networks, this consumption is not extreme, and standard sockets with a ground loop are usually rated for loads up to 3500 watts.

Despite this, any electrician will still give advice - do not rely on the wiring once made by someone, but stretch a separate line from the shield to the boiler. The second tip is that if a boiler with a power of more than 3000 W is selected, then the socket will not be the best option for connecting it - for the complete safety of the line, it is better to organize the connection point of the water heater through an automatic machine designed for currents of 16÷ 25 amperes.

Water heater dimensions and its external layout

Here, it would seem, everything is simple - the boiler is purchased in the right volume, and with the dimensions already - how it will turn out. Not certainly in that way.

• Traditionally, from the moment they appeared in everyday life, electric boilers had a vertical orientation and represented themselves a cylinder suspended from a wall or, for very large volumes, permanently mounted on the floor. The disadvantage of such a cylindrical shape is the irrational use of space, since the device protrudes excessively from the wall.

If a small boiler, up to 30 ÷ 50 liters, can still be raised higher, and it will not be a particular hindrance, then with larger capacities, the loss of space becomes significant.

"Squat" boilers take up less space, but they also have disadvantages

From this point of view, it will be much more convenient to use a vertical “flattened” boiler, and sometimes - parallelepiped designs. They are closer to the wall and allow more free use of space in a cramped room. True, such models are much more expensive, and besides, their inner tank always has several welds, and this is always a kind of "Achilles' heel" for any structure that is constantly in contact with water.

• If the room where it is planned is wide enough, then it makes sense to consider the feasibility of purchasing a device with horizontal placement on the wall.

In addition to the fact that this saves space, such boilers are praised for the rapid heating of water. True, the overall performance of such water heaters is still lower than that of vertical ones.

The model of the boiler according to the type of body and its placement on the wall must be determined immediately. It is absolutely unacceptable to change the direction of installation, for example, hang horizontally vertically or vice versa - the design features of each model predetermine its placement and connection to water supply networks only in a position strictly specified in the instructions.

Anti-corrosion protection

Without magnesium anodes, perhaps, modern boilers are no longer produced - this simple device allows you to maximize the life of the heaters and the internal capacity of the boiler.

Magnesium anode significantly "pulls" corrosion processes on itself

To purchase such an anode and replace it is not particularly difficult.

What can be added in this aspect - there are more modern anti-corrosion systems with so-called inert anodes. The degree of security of the boiler is much higher here, although the price of such a model is also the same.

Types of heating elements

• From the very beginning of the appearance of boilers in everyday life, they are installed so-called "wet" electric heaters - heating elements.

Wet heating elements are constantly in contact with water ...

They are directly immersed in the heated water, which means that the heat transfer process is more efficient. However, here lies the main vulnerability of such devices - the water quality can be such that even magnesium anodes do not help, and heaters become overgrown with scale and corrosion deposits in a matter of months.

... and this contact, alas, does not pass without a trace - such heating elements do not differ in durability

• Heaters with "dry" elements are considered more advanced. This, by and large, is no longer a heating element in the literal sense (not a tubular electric heater), but rather a system of powerful heating coils on a ceramic case.

"Dry" heaters are much safer and more durable

Such a "dry" heater is placed in a completely sealed capsule, which is located in the internal volume of the boiler. Contact with water simply cannot be, and such a heater lasts much longer. And it’s easier to change it - for this you don’t even need to drain their tank of water.

Boiler storage tank material

• If you approach from the point of view of the cheapness of the model, then you can purchase a boiler with a conventional steel inner tank with an enamel coating. Perhaps, apart from the low cost, this design has no other advantages - - it is the least resistant to pressure or temperature increase - the enamel can become cracked and start chipping.
• Much more practical in this regard are water heaters with a stainless steel tank. They are not so picky about the hardness and chemical composition of the water heated in them, they are much more hygienic. Stainless steel is a fairly plastic material, therefore it is not afraid of significant temperature changes and, accordingly, pressure - steel compensates for all expansions, and deformation will not occur.

Some boilers with a high-quality stainless steel tank and with a “dry” heating element are not even equipped with magnesium anodes due to the lack of such a need.

• The most modern are water heaters with tanks made of glass-porcelain composite. Here we can talk about absolute neutrality to any chemical reagents, the complete absence of even a hint of corrosion or surface deformation.

Under no circumstances will the heated water smell, as is often the case with enameled containers. Moreover, the glass-porcelain coating even has a certain antibacterial effect.

The disadvantage of such water heaters is one - they are still very expensive compared to other models.

Prices for accessories for boilers

Boiler accessories

Water heater control mechanisms

On the simplest models, there is a simple electromechanical control - a rotating handle, through which the required temperature for heating and maintaining water is set. An obligatory element, as a rule, is a pointer indicator - a thermometer and a light bulb (LED) indicating the heating process or a pause.

In principle, such a scheme of control and management in most cases is quite enough. However, if you wish, you can also purchase more “fancy” boilers, which have a liquid crystal indication of operating modes, and the possibility of programming has been implemented. For example, with the setting according to the switching on time, according to the heating power level, etc.

Modern boilers may have multifunctional electronic control systems

Such models can be included in the “smart home” system, controlled using special remote controls, and have other interesting, but probably not so popular functions in everyday life.

Fame manufacturer

The question is also important. Giving even if not too much money for an absolute "pig in a poke" is probably not very prudent. Who knows, you might be lucky, but very often the result is just the opposite, and the saddest thing is that there is also no one to claim any warranty obligations from.

In the middle price category, as a rule, Italian, Slovak, Turkish water heaters. They have a solid, neat assembly, but Chinese spare parts are most often used as components, which cannot be called low-quality, but they are still far from world standards.

If the aim for the purchase is guaranteed quality and longevity, along with the most advanced technologies, then German manufacturers have no equal here. In addition, real heaters from Germany are famous for their excellent heat retention characteristics - a fully heated boiler, disconnected from the power supply, will lose no more than 6 — 7 degrees per day.

How to connect the boiler correctly

The installation of an electric direct heating boiler in its regular place can be divided into several distinct technological stages:

• Choosing the optimal location and hanging the water heater on the wall.
• Pipe connection to the boiler and its insertion into the plumbing system.
• Installation and debugging of control and security systems.
• Connecting the boiler to the electrical network.

Mounting the boiler on the wall

It would seem - what is easier than hanging a water heater on the wall in the chosen place? However, frivolity in such a matter absolutely not allowed. Judge for yourself - even a small boiler, say 50 liters, with full filling will weigh about 70 kilograms. What can happen if the mount is unreliable - you can see in the photo.

Even in the best case, if at the time of the fall there were no people below - this is a broken appliance, damaged plumbing, for sure - leaking water, etc. And at worst - in addition to impact injury - there is also the danger of scalding with hot water or getting an electric shock.

• So, the wall material must be such that fasteners are securely held in it. In this capacity, plasterboard walls can not even be considered - in no case can you hang the boiler without a special metal structure.
• The suspensions themselves - dowels or anchors with hooks, must withstand twice the maximum load. For example, fasteners for a boiler with a volume of 120 liters must withstand a shear and bending force of 250 kg.

Usually, conscientious manufacturers complete their models with mounts that are guaranteed to withstand loads. if you have to purchase fasteners on your own, then the golden rule should apply - it is better to take with a huge margin than to doubt whether it is enough or not. Usually, for household-class boilers, dowels or anchors with a central rod with a diameter of at least 8 mm are sufficient, with an outer diameter of a collet or plug - at least 12 mm. The length of the dowel is about 100 - 120 mm.

• The boiler must not be located too far from the draw-off points. The "classic" place of its installation is considered to be a bathroom, a wall above the toilet. True, there may be obstacles to such placement. For example, an overly large water heater simply does not fit there. In addition, there are apartments that have more than one pair of hot and cold water risers - this happens when the “bath-toilet” block and the kitchen are separated. It makes no sense to pull long communications, powering all points from one boiler. The best solution would be to install two heaters - for the bath, and the second, more compact - for kitchen needs.
• The boiler must be placed on the wall in such a way that all its indication and control elements remain open for control, so that there is free access to plumbing fittings and a power supply switch.
• It is recommended to leave a distance of at least 100 mm between the boiler and the ceiling. The suspended water heater should not be placed lower than 500 mm from the floor surface.

• Most suspended boilers have one or two metal mounting strips or brackets welded to the body with holes for hooks. Before marking, carefully measure the distances between these holes so that they can be transferred to the wall. Sometimes in the technical documentation of the water heater, a paper template is attached to the installation instructions for the most accurate marking - this will be even easier.

Vertical axial and horizontal lines are beaten off on the wall, with control at building level assistance. But it marks holes for dowels or anchors. After drilling holes and hammering fasteners into them, the hook is screwed in so that approximately 5 - 7 mm remains outside.

After that, you can hang the boiler on hooks.

• There is another option - the water heater is equipped with a special bracket that is attached to the wall, and on the boiler body there is a “mate” for hanging on this bracket. Then they are used on hooks, and dowels or bolt-type anchors, with a hex key.

Inserting a boiler into the plumbing system of an apartment

This is one of the most difficult tasks. Its meaning lies in the fact that it is necessary to install tees on the cold and hot water lines. Through the "cold" water will be taken to the heater. Through the "hot" boiler will be connected to the internal wiring of hot water.

The classic boiler piping scheme is shown in the diagram:

Time-tested electric boiler to the plumbing system

Blue arrows show the movement of cold water, red, respectively, hot.

By. 1 is the water heater itself.

Pos. 2 and 3 - cold and hot water supply risers. As a rule, at the inlet, in front of the water meters (they are not shown in the diagram), there are shut-off valves - pos. 4 and 5. An important note - when working offline, that is, when using a boiler, the valve pos. 5 is necessarily in a completely blocked state.

Valves pos. 8 and 9 - an element, in principle, optional, but highly recommended. With these taps, it will be possible to turn off the boiler, for example, for preventive maintenance or for repair, in no way without affecting all the rest of the apartment layout.

From these valves, the supply usually begins (pos. 10 and 11) to the water heater itself. Flexible hoses or plastic pipes, polypropylene or metal-plastic can be used.

If the hot pipe connection is connected, most often, directly to the boiler, then for cold water it is required to install a safety valve (pos. 12), which can be connected to the drainage system with a thin flexible hose (pos. 13).

Theory is over. Now let's see how this can be done in practice.

• You will need a certain tool and accessories - wrenches (for 22, 24, 27 and 32), gas wrenches, a cutter for plastic pipes, tow for winding joints and a special paste for the same purposes. You can have a few ½ inch and ¾ inch rubber spacers in stock.
• First of all, before starting installation work, both valves at the inlet (pos. 4 and 5) must be closed.
• The next knot is tees. There will be no particular problems if the internal wiring in the house and whether the apartment is made of polypropylene or metal-plastic - you can cut the desired fragment of a pipe, weld or mount a tee on the fittings, and then lead further laying from it to the boiler.

It is more difficult if the pipe is laid steel, and its replacement with a more perfect one - plastic, is not yet planned. So, you have to embed a tee.

In principle, a simple and acceptable solution may be to install a collapsible clip-clamp. A hole is drilled in the pipe, a clip is put on top, it is tightly tightened, and further wiring is made from the resulting outlet.

A tee - a clip allows you to solve the problem to some extent, but it’s still better to make a “major” tie-in

However, this option is not considered too successful - there may be leaks, and there is a high probability of a quick clog in the place of the drilled hole. It is better to cut a pipe section with a grinder, cut the thread with an appropriate lerk, and then “pack” a full-fledged brass tee using a conventional drive or, which is much better - with swivel nut couplings - so-called "Americans".

The most convenient way is to use connections with union nuts - American

Video: how to switch from a metal pipe to a plastic one

• From the installed tee, of course, it is already worthwhile to “get closer” to the boiler by installing plastic pipes.

It is recommended to bring the pipes as close as possible to the water heater. As the last section of the eyeliner, flexible hoses in a metal braid are most often used. So - the shorter they are, the more durable. Long hoses vibrate strongly when starting and closing the water, and this causes accelerated wear.

A prerequisite is that if such flexible hoses are installed, they must be of exceptionally high quality.

However, many craftsmen still prefer to make an eyeliner entirely from or metal-plastic pipes.

Connection without flexible hoses - only from polypropylene pipes

Do not forget that it is recommended to install another pair of shut-off valves before the last section of the piping.

The hot pipe is connected directly to the red pipe of the water heater. You can find recommendations to install an additional tee here with access to the drain tap - but from a practical point of view, such an element has no special application.

On the left, a tee with a diverter valve is mounted on the hot pipe. From a practical point of view - not a particularly necessary detail

Particular attention to the connection of the cold pipe

Here, there are much more strict requirements for connecting water to the boiler.

The main one is the mandatory installation of a safety valve immediately before entering the water heater pipe. This device is essentially represents double acting valve.

Without any exaggeration - the most important element of safety, the safety valve

• In a longitudinal cylinder with a threaded connection, there is a poppet - it will not allow water to flow out of the boiler even if there is no pressure at all in the supply pipes.
• The perpendicular cylinder also houses a poppet valve, but with a much stronger spring. Its compression force is calculated in such a way that the valve will open when the pressure in the boiler exceeds the critical point, for example, if the thermostat fails, overheats or even boils water. In this case, excess liquid will be discharged into the drain pipe, and the pressure in the device will return to normal. The drain pipe is often connected with a transparent flexible tube to a sewer or toilet flush tank.

On many models, a lever is provided - it allows you to open the emergency valve manually, for example, to drain water from the tank.

You can often hear complaints that water is dripping from such a valve. You can’t complain about this - you need to rejoice that the valve is working correctly. A valve that is always dry should cause much more concern - there is a possibility that it is clogged.

There are smart people who believe that only a check valve will be enough. This is the worst delusion., which has led to real tragedies more than once.

Another important warning is that no locking devices are allowed to be installed after the valve and before entering the boiler.

Video: The Importance of Installing a Relief Valve

The picture shows the installed valve, above which a tee is packed, which has a lateral outlet through a shut-off valve. This is a completely acceptable and quite convenient improvement in piping the boiler - it is always possible to quickly drain the water from it or use the water supply when for some reason it is not in the water supply.

It happens that the pressure in the plumbing system at home is extremely unstable - there are strong jumps. This is unsafe for the boiler in terms of the occurrence of water hammer. In addition, at elevated pressure, an emergency valve may operate, uselessly discharging water into the sewer system.

It is not difficult to eliminate such a nuisance - you need to install a pressure reducer at the entrance to the apartment or directly in front of the boiler - usually purchased with a nominal value of 2 atmospheres.

When installing valves and reducers, be sure to pay attention to the direction of the arrows printed on their body and indicating the direction of water flow.

“Packing” of threaded plumbing connections is best done on tow using a special sealing paste (for example, Unipack). Tow fibers are wound along the threads strictly clockwise, then smeared with paste on top. It is not required to especially tighten such a pairing with a key - it is twisted all the way, but “without fanaticism”. If necessary, it will even be possible to even make a quarter or even half a turn back - this should not affect the tightness of the connection. In this, this type of winding is much more advantageous, for example, fum tapes.

When connecting flexible hoses and union nuts of American couplings, winding is not required - rubber gaskets cope with the task of sealing.

Boiler piping completed

After all nodes are connected according to the scheme, the quality of all connections is checked, you can conduct a test set of water in the boiler.

• For this, primarily, the shut-off valve at the hot water inlet to the apartment is closed.
• Then, at one of the points of water intake on the mixer, a “hot” tap opens - the air displaced from the tank will exit through it.
• The valve for supplying cold water to the boiler opens.
• The water heater starts to fill up. It is necessary to monitor the moment until water starts to run from the open tap - this will indicate that the boiler is full. After that, close the tap on the mixer. The valve for supplying cold water to the heater always remains open for the entire time the appliance is used.

On this, the final tie-in of the boiler into the water supply system can be considered completed. It remains only to connect the boiler to the power supply, set the required heating temperature on the control panel, and, as it heats up, it is reasonable to use hot water.

Video: how to install a water heater with your own hands

TOP 12 best boilers

	A photo	Name	Rating	Price
Gas boilers
#1		American Water Heater	⭐ 99 / 100
#2		Ariston SGA 150	⭐ 99 / 100
#3		Baxi SAG3 80	⭐ 98 / 100
Electric boilers
#1		Gorenje OTG 80 SL B6	⭐ 100 / 100
#2		Ariston BLU1 R ABS 80V	⭐ 100 / 100
#3		Thermex Sprint 80 SPR-V	⭐ 98 / 100
Indirect heating boilers
#1		Drazice OKC 200 NTRR	⭐ 100 / 100
#2		Protherm FE 200/6 BM	⭐ 99 / 100
#3		Gorenje GV 200	⭐ 98 / 100
Combined boilers
#1		Drazice OKC 160/1m2	⭐ 100 / 100
#2

Refusal to use centralized hot water supply is the exception rather than the rule. There are several reasons for this:

• You do not depend on the state of the boiler room, pipelines, repair schedules.
• There is no subscription fee.
• You don't have to wait for hot water to get to your faucet (while the meter keeps spinning).

The cost of the water heater is not so high, the power consumption is also within reason. You can not overpay for installation, installing a boiler with your own hands is a completely affordable operation for a home master. There are also no problems with placement: the tank can be hung in any of the sanitary rooms.

Types of boilers that can be used in a residential area

It would seem that this is just a device for heating water. However, there are a huge number of designs that can be combined into several groups.

There are gas, liquid and solid fuel boilers. In our material, we consider an electric water heater.

Boilers differ in heating method

Differences in boilers by type of heater

Next, we will tell you how to properly install a boiler in residential premises of various types. Depending on the configuration of the object and the climatic zone, the water heater connection scheme differs significantly.

Installation of a water heater with storage

First of all, you need to choose a place where you will install the appliance. There are several criteria, we will distribute them in order of importance:

1. Presence of water pipes nearby. Installation of a storage water heater should not be complicated by laying long water supply systems.
2. Operational safety depends on how correctly the electric water heater is connected to a 220 volt network. It is advisable to allocate a separate power line on an individual group machine.
3. The possibility of tapping into an existing hot water supply system so that heated water does not enter the common house system. This question does not apply to individual dwellings.
4. The presence of a solid wall on which it is possible to safely install the boiler with your own hands.

Most often, it is advisable to install a water heater in the bathroom. There, the water supply is laid, and the hot pipe, and the main point of consumption. This can lead to two problems:

Of course, if there is a capital wall - such a question is not worth it. We drive the anchor 120-150 mm long, and you can hang at least 300 kg.

Tees and valves to the boiler cut into the lines going from the risers to the consumer (faucet, mixer). Between the tie-in and the riser, a second shut-off valve is required. The system works as follows: close the valve after the hot riser, open the hot water shut-off valve. We use a boiler, heated water does not go into the general system.

If you need to use centralized hot water supply - we close the shut-off valves to the boiler, the taps from the riser are open.

Do-it-yourself instantaneous electric water heater installation

Heating devices without a storage tank solve 2 main problems:

Installation of a country instantaneous water heater does not provide for complex tie-ins into the system and the installation of several stopcocks. You connect the mini boiler to electricity, and start a source of water supply at the inlet.

The main thing is to ensure sufficient water pressure. Flow boilers have a powerful heating system, with a weak flow, the water will boil inside, and the overheating protection will turn off the device.

How to connect instantaneous water heater in the apartment? The scheme is similar to a storage boiler.

Again, the water pressure must be sufficient for trouble-free heating. With such a scheme, it is required to install and connect a water heater with automatic control of switching on. That is, you opened the water - the heating went on. Close the tap - the boiler turned off. The only problem with such flow-throughs is that at least the minimum capacity of the heat exchanger is required. After shutting off the pressure, the water should cool down. This requires volume.

For flow boilers, the electrical connection diagram must necessarily include grounding and RCD. In fact, during operation, you use water that is in direct contact with the heater. In the event of an electrical breakdown, the security system must immediately de-energize the heater.

If you do not know how to install a boiler with your own hands, it is better to turn to professionals to install a flow heater. After installation, you will receive a safety certificate.

Installing an indirect heating boiler

Let's leave aside the hanging of heat exchangers on the heating main, it's still not 100% legal. We will figure out why and how to connect an indirect heating boiler to the general system of individual housing. First of all, this is not just indirect heating. This is a system for replacing the heat source, depending on external conditions. As a rule, the boiler capacity is at least 100 liters, and two heat exchange circuits. A traditional boiler (gas or any other) is connected to them, as well as a solar battery. Not the one that generates electric current, but the collector of solar heat.

As a result, during the operation of the boiler room (for space heating), or in the bright sun, the water in the common boiler always heats up. That is, you receive heat conditionally free of charge. Moreover, if the sun effectively heats water even in cold weather (and modern batteries work even at near zero temperatures), you can save on traditional water heating and use the boiler as a consumable container.

That is, the system “works” the other way around: through the first heat exchanger, the sun heats the water in the tank, and the second coil can supply it to the radiators or the “warm floor” system.

Outcome

Before deciding which water heater to buy, study the conditions of use, and choose the most economical option.

Related videos

A household appliance that heats tap water for the use of homeowners is called differently. The word "boiler" comes from the English verb "to boil", which means "to boil". That is, the unit for heating water is in the English vernacular expression "boiler". In Russian-language technical documentation, the word "water heater" is used - it covers most of the meanings associated with a unit that heats water for domestic needs. After choosing and purchasing such a device, the question arises connecting the boiler to the water supply. It is within our power to do it with our own hands without the involvement of expensively paid labor of specialists. But first you need to understand the types of water heaters and the rules for choosing them.

Devices for heating water to the temperature desired by the user may have a different device and configuration.

The range of water heaters is very extensive.

According to a single classification basis, all boilers can be divided into types:

• according to the method of water treatment - storage and flow;
• by power source - electric and gas;
• by form factor - cylindrical, flattened, rectangular;
• according to the location of the connection - vertical and horizontal;
• according to the degree of activity - indirect and active;
• according to the installation method - wall and floor;
• by type of control - mechanical and electronic.

The variety of the presented equipment serves for the most complete and adequate satisfaction of heterogeneous user needs. For example, for a private house with an autonomous gas or solid fuel boiler, an indirect heating boiler is perfect. It does not contain a built-in thermoelement, and the water in it is heated by a heating boiler. By the way, such units are usually floor-mounted, so that it is more convenient to connect them to a similarly located boiler. In the conditions of an apartment building, this option is unacceptable.

Storage electric boilers

It is for this type of water heating technique that the word “boiler” has been entrenched in the mass consciousness.

A typical representative of the budget segment

The source of energy for heating is the household electrical network. Structurally, the boiler is a container filled with water from the water supply. The built-in thermal electric heater (or simply heating element) raises the water temperature to the set value. The thermostat helps him in this - a device that fixes the temperature of the water and turns off the heating when the required values ​​\u200b\u200bare reached. Usually it is combined with a scale and a switch, on which the user himself can set the parameter he needs. For the most part, electric boilers are wall-mounted units. This is due to the desire to save space in the small space of bathrooms and kitchens.

The filling can be both electronic and mechanical. The advantage of such devices is their universality. It is rare that a dwelling is not connected to electrical networks. Sometimes this is the only type of energy source in the area where the house is located. For apartment buildings, installing a boiler where there is neither centrally supplied hot water nor gas is becomes the only solution for minimal comfort. Also, the boiler becomes an indispensable assistant in those apartments where there are frequent interruptions in the supply of hot water, or it is supplied by the hour. In addition to the high power consumption of such a product almost no cons. The device is completely safe if the installation rules are followed.

More information in the article about electric storage for an apartment and connect it. Information about the main advantages of storage tanks, as well as the nuances that should be taken into account when hanging a boiler.

Flow electrical appliances

Structurally very simple, and even much more compact than other models.

Takes up almost no space

They are in demand when installed in those places where there is physically no room for a large boiler. Such a boiler is a curved channel, along which a heating coil is laid by the entanglement method (external placement of the coil) or by the coaxial cable method - the coil in a waterproof tube is located inside the channel through which water moves, repeating all its bends. To heat water to the desired values ​​under high pressure, it is necessary that the thermoelement heats up very quickly and to high values. So the power of flow devices is always higher than y - about two or three kilowatts. But the heater works only at the moment when the water is turned on - the rest of the time it is inactive, blocked by special fuses from accidental operation. A possible area of ​​application is points with episodic and short-term water intake, for example, washstands or shower heads. Getting a bath of hot water in this way will already be costly.

Gas storage devices

This type is rare, although it is one of the most economical in terms of water heating costs. The reason is that where it is possible to use gas to produce hot water, instantaneous water heaters are much more often installed. The temperature regime given out by the gas burner is more than enough to heat the flowing water. Instantaneous water heaters are more compact than storage water heaters, so most users do not see the point in installing a larger household appliance. To install it, a full-fledged chimney duct with working ventilation is required. The open type burner consumes air directly from the room. Given the small volume of bathrooms, a constant supply of oxygen is needed for combustion so that the air does not turn out to be stale. Significant advantages of this type of boilers - high heating rate and economic efficiency.

A rare guest in Russian apartments

Geysers

Such units are almost never called boilers, because a special name has been assigned to them - columns. Entire houses and neighborhoods in which there is no central hot water supply, but there is a connection to the gas main, are equipped with flowing ones. They have been known since Soviet times, but since then they have become much more compact, more accurate, safer and “smarter” thanks to the electronic control board. The heat exchanger through which the water runs during the heating process is always smaller than the storage tank with the burner, especially when it comes to volumes of more than 50 liters. The gas consumption is slightly higher than in accumulative gas appliances, but still cheaper than to heat water with electricity.

Compact and economical

Prices for popular models of gas instantaneous water heaters

Gas instantaneous water heater

Video - All about water heaters. Choosing a water heater, operating principle, installation, start-up

How to choose the right boiler

When choosing, you need to take into account the various parameters of the boilers, and focus on the most suitable one.

Shape and size

At first glance, the shape of the boiler creates only an aesthetic effect and does not affect the design in any way. However, in combination with volume, and hence the size of the device, the shape can make use more comfortable.

The buyers of an electric or gas water heater are faced with the question of the volume of water that will constantly be spent on domestic needs and must be accumulated in a heated tank. In this case, it is impossible to make a calculation by simply adding up the approximate rate in 30 - 50 liters per person - then the figure will turn out to be too impressive. This is not necessary, since all family members never use hot water at the same time and do not drain their entire rate at one time. But much depends on the nature of the points of water intake.

Volume matters a lot.

For example, if a shower cabin is installed in the apartment, then the flow rate will be one, and if a spacious bathtub that is filled several times a day is much more. Approximate recommendations for choosing the volume of the storage tank are given in the table:

Table 1. Approximate volume of a boiler per family.

Number of people	Minimum volume, l	Optimal volume, l
1	30	50
2	50	80
3	80	100
4	100	120
5	120	150

As can be seen from the table, the optimal capacity for a certain number of people in a family is at the same time the minimum capacity of the device for a family with more than one person. This means that the boiler can be operated, and in most cases its volume will be enough, but there is an increased risk that, with intensive use, one of the family members may get cold water.

Small boilers of 30 or even 20 liters will be convenient not as the main one, but as a point source of hot water, for example, for a kitchen sink or a washstand. Among the most typical form factors in which water heaters are made, two options prevail:

• cylindrical;
• flattened.

In this case, the ratio of the metric characteristics of a cylindrical boiler is different. Many 50-liter variants are equipped with tanks that are large in diameter but small in height. It is optimal to place them at a certain height, under the ceiling of the bathroom - then they do not “eat up” the usable area, and you won’t have to hurt your head about them. Boilers of larger capacity are made vertically elongated. While maintaining the volume, this allows you to reduce the thickness. Any cylindrical boiler convenient for installation in a corner.

Typical corner location

Flattened boilers appeared on the market later than cylindrical boilers as an attempt at a more ergonomic solution. They have rounded edges and corners, so they do not look bulky and heavy. But their plus is not only in appearance. Due to the flat design of the boiler in 100 - 120 liters has a thickness two or more times less than its cylindrical counterpart. Such units can be placed not only in the corners, but also on an open wall.

Modern boilers can have not only a lower communication connection, but also a side one, and even a top one. The layout of the inlet and outlet fittings does not affect the operation of the device, it is designed for ease of connection. When choosing a boiler, immediately figure out where you are going to place it, and what will be the molding of the connecting pipes or flexible hoses. So, for the lower location under the sink, the upper location of the mounting pipes is provided. A side connection scheme is common for flat horizontal boilers.

Prices for popular models of indirect heating heaters

Indirect heating heaters

Tank material and thermal insulation layer

Since manufacturers have been producing different types of boilers, disputes have not ceased between users about which tank is better in terms of performance. Basically, tanks are made with enamel coating and stainless steel.

Enamel is applied to the inner surface of the tank, which consists of ordinary iron. The stainless steel tank is homogeneous but has a welded seam. The warranty for devices equipped with different types of tanks can range from 1 year for enameled and glass-ceramic tanks to 5 years for stainless ones. This indicates a longer service life of stainless steel as a material in contact with water.

Interior view of a stainless steel tank

But enameled boilers have one indisputable advantage - an affordable price. This trump card for many buyers overrides other considerations. In addition, with proper operation and the presence of a magnesium anode, which reduces the deposition of solid deposits on the walls and heating elements of the water heater, the latter has successfully served its owners for more than one year.

Other characteristics

Each boiler has a certain group of features that do not directly affect its operation, but can optimize operation and make it more convenient:

1. Control type. The mechanical system contains a physical type sensor, which, when a certain water temperature is reached, expands and opens the electrical circuit that supplies the heating element with current. The sensor is connected to a handle and a graduated scale. All boilers, regardless of the type of control, are equipped with LED indicator, which signals the readiness of water in the device. Electronic control is a button or touch panel, to which, in boilers with a price higher than the average value, a display is also attached, which displays all information about the state of the unit. Electronic control is more accurate and reliable, but it has a higher risk of breakdown, and its repair will cost a considerable amount.
2. Degree of protection. Users rarely pay attention to this parameter, but in vain, because the safety of use depends on it. Since it is theoretically possible for water to come into contact with conductive materials in a boiler, it must have protection in case of breakdown of the heating element is provided. A ground loop is also required.
3. Hull thickness. The thicker the walls of the boiler, all the better, after all, a layer of heat insulator is laid between the outer shell and the inner tank. The better it is, the less water in the device will cool down during the day, if you do not even open the tap.

Sometimes a remote control is included.

Connecting the boiler to the water supply

After the choice is made, and the box with the boiler is unpacked, you need to take care of installing and connecting the unit to the water supply and electrical network.

We hang on the wall

It doesn’t matter if you hang in the kitchen or in the bathroom, the main thing is to choose a load-bearing wall.

An example of fastening to the ceiling, if the walls are made of plasterboard

A boiler filled with water can weigh over one hundred kilograms, so it is not allowed to mount it on interior partitions, walls and other fragile structures. The load-bearing wall is usually made of concrete or brick. For hanging you will need:

• perforator;
• two hook anchors;
• building level;
• roulette;
• wrench.

Boiler installation - step by step instructions

Hang the boiler like this:

Step 1. Use a tape measure to measure the distance between the mounting eyes of the boiler. At the height where the boiler will hang, mark this distance with a pencil. Level check the coincidence of the holes with the horizon.

We measure the distance between the fixing eyes of the boiler

Step 2 Use a hammer drill to drill holes in the wall a little deeper than the length of the anchors. The diameter of the holes should allow you to insert the anchor into tension, slightly knocking them out with a hammer. Throw a wrench onto the nut and tighten the fasteners alternately on both hooks. The anchor tab will spread apart and securely jam the anchor into the wall.

We drill holes in the wall a little deeper than the length of the anchors

Prices for popular models of rotary hammers

Perforators

Step 3 Take the boiler and put it on the hooks with its eyes, tilt it slightly towards the wall. If the device is large, invite an assistant, especially if you are hanging from a stepladder or stool.

We put on a boiler

Connecting to pipelines

All manufacturers mark the boiler nozzles in blue and red. The first is connected to the cold water supply, the second crashes into the hot water distribution. There are several points to consider before connecting the boiler to the water supply.

Much will depend on the type of plumbing. If you have open type pipes, then you just need to remove the excess so that access to them is convenient. To tap into hidden pipes, you will have to remove the tiles and gouge channels to access the pipes. This installation should be timed to coincide with the renovation of the bathroom.

Boiler connection diagram

Boiler can be installed to help to centralized hot water supply. In this case, the outlet of the water heater is also carried out through a tee into the hot main. At the entrance to the apartment and at the exit from the boiler, stopcocks are installed without fail. With their help, you can block the hot channel from the boiler room and use only the boiler, or vice versa, shut off the supply from the boiler in case of its maintenance.

Pipe connection - step by step instructions

Threaded fittings are required to connect metal-plastic pipes. For polypropylene - a special soldering iron, which can be rented at a hardware store. If you got inlet metal inlet pipes, and you are not going to change them to plastic, then you can arrange all the wiring on flexible hoses - in an external metal braid or with an internal sealing jacket. At the ends of metal pipes, threads will need to be cut to screw on the adapters. Let's take this option step by step.

Step 1. Locate the entry and exit points for the boiler pipes. It is most convenient to do this in ready-made branches. Such a node will be the removal of cold water to fill the toilet bowl. There is already a tee in the pipe. All you need is to buy another tee and screw it onto the existing thread. Do this with fum tape to avoid leaks. Tighten with an adjustable wrench or gas wrench.

We find the entry and exit points of the nozzles for the boiler

Step 2 After the cold water tee is installed, take a flexible hose and connect the cold water connection on the boiler to one of the outlets on the tee. At the second exit, screw the hose removed earlier to the toilet bowl. A safety valve must be installed at the inlet. It serves as an emergency pressure relief in case of excessive water heating.

We connect the pipe of cold water on the boiler

Step 3 Find a place on the hot main where you can fit the tee. This can be done where water taps are connected in the bathroom or in the kitchen. The faucet pipe nut is unscrewed, a tee is placed on the fum-tape, then the outlet to the faucet is screwed back onto one of the outlets, and the hot water inlet from the boiler is screwed onto the free one. On the branch pipe of the water heater, marked in red, be sure to install a flag-type shut-off valve so that the boiling water from the boiler can be shut off at any time.

We find a place on a hot highway where you can embed a tee

Step 4 Check the operation of the boiler by opening the hot water tap and turning off all shut-off valves. Air will come out of the faucet until the tank is full. As water accumulates, it will flow from the tap, after which it can be closed and the boiler plugged into the network. If there is no grounding in the socket, it is necessary to ground the boiler forcibly through a steel wire.

Checking the performance of the boiler

Video - Connecting the water heater to the water supply

Attention! It is forbidden to connect the ground to radiators, steel baths and other metal objects. If you live in a low-rise building, weld the wire to the pin and hammer it into the ground. In a multi-storey building, contact the management company.