What is KAP. Burl varieties of walnut What does a birch burl look like

What are caps and suveli, how do they differ? How and where are they prepared? How to quickly and efficiently dry the growths at home?

cap

So, to begin with, let's define some concepts.

cap(aka " witch broom") is a benign formation on a tree, which is a bundle of thin twigs growing from a drop-shaped (most often) growth. When cross-sectioned, it has a texture with pronounced knot cores. It is difficult to process due to the strongly curly texture and a huge number of knots. Extremely beautiful , durable, perfectly sanded and polished.

Separate numerous areas have a mother-of-pearl tint. Big industrial value does not have, but is highly valued because of its beauty. If it is used in industry, it is only in the form of veneer for furniture finishing (mostly exotic wood burl is used), as well as for the production of small items such as caskets, cigarette cases, women's hairpins, small jewelry (birch burl). The use of a burl on the handles of knives is considered good taste, and is also valued by wood carvers for its unique texture.

It is impossible to find two identical pieces of burl - even halves of a sawn burl have a different pattern, the growth is so heterogeneous. It grows on many trees (linden, alder, birch, maple, oak, etc.), but the most valuable and beautiful is birch (from those growing in our latitudes). The growth is usually small, at most the size of a volleyball or a large plate.

It does not make sense to cut some kind of pattern on the cap, since the texture clogs everything.

The photo shows a birch burl. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get a cut of a birch burl (I took these pictures near the local police station, and, as you understand, they wouldn’t give me anything to cut down there ... But I contrived and found an ash burl; most of the burls are similar in texture and differ only in color and size of knot cores).

(swirl) - as the name implies, the growth got its name because of its structure. "twisted structure",

This is putting it mildly. Suvel is a drop-shaped or spherical growth on a tree (there is also an annular variety, it covers the tree trunk along the perimeter), it usually grows 2-3 times faster than the tree itself. When sawn, it has a texture similar in pattern to marble and mother-of-pearl (this is the main sign of difference from mouth guard; in the future, do not confuse suvel and cap). The presence of mother-of-pearl stains on a polished tree creates a beautiful iridescent picture that glows from the inside. The twist is also poorly processed, like the burl, but not as hard. The size varies from the size of a nut up to 1.5 meters in height (I myself saw one on a birch) and up to 2 meters in diameter (an annular suvel completely covered the tree trunk).

In the Vatican, there is a font much more than a meter in diameter, carved from a single piece of suvel. He himself once sat in an armchair carved from suveli. Holds fine thread perfectly, but it is not recommended to cut the suvel. It is better to sand and varnish (impregnate with oil). The product will only benefit from this.

The most valuable is the root or butt streak. The presence of dark veins and well-defined twisted annual rings. This is a fairytale. BEAUTIFUL, that says it all. The barrel suvel is distinguished by a finer texture and a finer "frosty" pattern. And lighter wood. In terms of strength, the butt suvel is slightly superior to the stem one due to the structural features of the tree trunk. Suvel is strong, beautiful, easily polished and polished. Well-dried and processed, it begins to "glow" from the inside (with proper impregnation with oils, the tree becomes like amber and even a little transparent). Usually has a color from pale yellow or pinkish brown to quite ocher brown. It all depends on the conditions and drying time. Cap has the same colors.

As you can see, the suvel does not look like a cap at all.

- this is a mushroom (not to be confused with a tinder fungus) and we do not need it for our purposes.

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Where to look for growths... Naturally in the forest. BUT! There are no specific places of growth, they grow spontaneously, and the most beautiful outgrowths will be found by the most big-eyed and persistent. This activity is akin to hunting for mushrooms - who is more and more about e gal forest, and that got more.

We cut off the growth. We do this with a sharp saw. Otherwise, you will be tormented by sawing, and the tree will begin to shaggy. We do not clean the bark.

I highlight in red:

1. If the growth is "trunk-embracing" or hooded, then it is more correct to refrain from cutting it down - the tree may die. It is advisable to acquire such burls and strands during legal logging, when the tree is doomed anyway.
2. Cutting off growths is desirable in the dry season, ideally in late August, early September, before the start of sap flow.
3. Do not forget to cover up the cut on the tree oil paint or wax, or something like that.

Drying

So how to dry? The method of "steaming". I must say right away that this method is suitable for small pieces of wood: somewhere in the half of a soccer ball or a small log.

1. We take an unnecessary pan (bucket), and throw a piece of wood there. The pot should be taken exactly unnecessary, since during the cooking process a very tricky broth is formed, which is then very troublesome to wash. It is better to clean the piece of wood from all sorts of tatters of birch bark and other fragile and dangling tails - they will fall off anyway.

   I'm considering exactly birch growth, as the most affordable and beautiful. The rest of the growths are cooked using the same technology. The log is accordingly cleaned of any debris and fragile particles. We pour water. It is convenient to do this with a faceted glass (it contains 250 ml). Water should cover the piece of wood by about a centimeter or two. The tree naturally floats up, but let's press it to the bottom and see everything. Pour water, no matter what, cold or hot - it will boil anyway. You can throw a piece of wood into a saucepan no matter how much it is a pity, the volume of a separate piece of wood is important, and not the total volume of wood.

2. We take table salt, which is not a pity. We don't make soup. Pour 2 large tablespoons per liter of water
   with a top of salt. It is possible and more, no matter how much it is a pity, it's okay, it's impossible to overdo it. The main thing is that the water should be sugary salty. You can use the sea clean water(namely, clean, otherwise it will be disgusting to smell like mud). Salt will draw juices from the tree, but the tree will not saturate.
3. We find sawdust of resinous wood species. Spruce, pine, the easiest to get. We take a saw: and forward. We need two powerful handfuls of sawdust (we rake the sawdust with both hands). It is sawdust, and not shavings from a simple hand planer. The shavings will come from an electric planer (you can get it at the nearest sawmill or cut it yourself). I always use them. They are quite small and are usually plentiful and easy to obtain. The more resin in the sawdust, the better. And the smaller the sawdust, the better. We fall asleep in a saucepan. Sawdust will give the suveli a pleasant ocher color. From soft pink-yellow to ocher-brown. Also see about The wood will add strength and texture to the wood.
4. When the water boils, reduce the fire and leave it simmering for 6-8 hours, maybe more, as long as you have enough patience. If the saucepan is large, then you can not turn down the flame, let the water boil and bubble. But you need to watch that the water does not boil away completely. Salt, sawdust, temperature and time will do their job. Add water as needed. During the cooking process, a red "broth" is formed. And scum. Scale is best removed immediately. It is very difficult to wash off.
5. It took 6-8 hours (depending on the size of the piece of wood). We take out the wood. Rinse under running water from sawdust. Water from a pot
   we throw it out as useless, but you can leave it for the next time, if there is where to store it. But pouring water is easier. We throw the growth
   on the closet, wrapping nothing. For a day or two, let it cool down.
6. We repeat the process of cooking and drying 2-4 times, depending on the volume of wood. You can use a pressure cooker to speed up the process. Time is reduced to 4-6 hours.
7. At the last cooking, you need to quickly peel off the bark while the tree is hot. Although she herself should fall off by this time. Carefully!!! Hot!!! Use gloves!
8. We throw it on the closet for a week or two. The wood is basically already dry, but let the remaining moisture go. The tree "will rise" to the atmosphere. After the final drying, the tree will become like a bone, and it will be possible to cut, saw, grind it. There will be no foreign smell. It will only smell like wood.
9. In the process of accelerated drying of wood, it must be remembered that small cracks can be reflected, and therefore it is necessary to give
   allowance for their removal in subsequent processing.
10. Once again I remind you that large pieces cannot be dried like that. Cracked. Necessarily. Checked.
11. After the final adaptation of the tree to the atmosphere, we make a product from it. It is desirable to impregnate the suvel and cap with oil, and, if
    there is a desire, then wax too. The tree will show the texture, "play", as they say, all its inner beauty will appear.

If you have any questions or any clarifications about the above technology, I will answer to the best of my ability and ability.

Views: 31073

15.05.2017

The tree is the most common plant on earth.

Nature is incredibly generous, since it gave a person not only the opportunity to admire the beauty of trunks and leaves, but also to extract practical benefits from wood, because for several thousand years people have been using wooden products in their everyday life, building houses, boats, making furniture and household utensils, producing musical instruments, crafts, etc.

To date, there is no material capable of completely replacing the wonderful natural properties wood, because its density, color, texture, texture pattern and shades are unique in each case.

The natural originality of the wood pattern is especially evident in cape and suveli(ball-shaped or tear-shaped growths on trees), which pundits have identified as diseases.

These formations create a complex enchanting pattern of wood fibers inside, consisting of an interweaving of colored lines, spots, blotches, smoothly flowing into each other, which form, thus, a pattern of special beauty. Due to the richness of colors and lines, both burl and suvel are an excellent natural material for the production of various crafts, jewelry, interior items, since they have an exclusive texture (it is impossible to find two identical patterns in nature), and special strength and durability.

Let's try to determine how cap and suvel differ from each other, and what is common between them.

cap

Cap ( kapokoren or as it is also popularly called witch broom”) is a rounded benign formation on a trunk or branch with a large number of woody nodules. Cap, just differs from suveli in that it has on its outside many bumps that are created thanks to adnexal and dormant buds. These formations look like dark spikes and tubercles, which is why, often on the cap, you can observe small shoots and twigs growing directly from it.

According to some scientists, a burl on a tree occurs as a result of either a sharp change in the development of a plant, that is, it can have both a natural and an anthropogenic cause. Some scientists believe that the appearance of an ugly tumor on a tree may be a hereditary deformity.

Burl occurs mainly on deciduous trees, such as oak, linden, maple, alder, poplar, walnut, but most often it can be found on birch.

It has been noticed that on average, for one tree with a burl, there are from three to five thousand trees without such formation, so finding a good burl (unlike suveli) is quite difficult.

Most often, a root cap is found on trees, which can be simply giant size.

Usually, kapokoren it has a softly expressed texture inside and a drawing that is weak in contrast of colors.

A burl formed on a branch often has the shape of an irregular ball and, unlike kapokorn, when cross-sectioned, its internal texture is replete with patterns with knot cores and has a kind of “needle” structure in the form of a small ornament with dashes and dots. The internal fibers of the wood are intertwined with each other in different directions, creating a picturesque pattern, and interspersed with sleeping buds make the texture even richer, so the cap is most often used as a decorative element in the manufacture of various handicrafts, knife handles, gun butts, original dishes and other souvenirs.

In processing, due to the strong density of its texture and the huge number of knots, the burl is not simple, but at the same time it is perfectly ground and polished.

The main color of the internal texture of the cap is various shades of black or brown, ocher. Even if you take two halves of the same cap, they will still be different and have a different pattern, so the structure of the build-up is heterogeneous.

The wood of the burl is stronger than that of the suveli, and fifty to seventy percent stronger than that of the tree on which it was formed.

Small items are also produced from burl: caskets, cigarette cases, hairpins, earrings, bracelets, small jewelry.

It does not make sense to create a carved pattern on the cap, since the texture and texture of wood is beautiful in itself.

Souvelle

The formation of suveli is caused by a tree disease (cancer) and it most often represents a growth twisted and woven into a ball, which is why it is also called swilem.

Typically, the swirl grows two to three times faster than the tree itself and has a teardrop or spherical shape, located around the trunk or branch. The main difference between suveli and burl is that it is not formed from dormant buds, but due to the complex interweaving of annual rings bent in different directions (hence the name svil). On this basis, the cones on the tree are easy to distinguish from each other.

Growths (especially on birch) are quite common, although the reason for its formation has not been fully studied. Presumably, a fungus or mechanical damage to the tree bark can initiate the formation of a stria.

Suvel (popularly called tree bone), since its cut resembles stains of marble (with the same overflows and radial section), and thin parts are visible through and outwardly similar to bone, although the density of tissues, as mentioned above, is less for suveli than for burl, therefore its wood is less durable.

The outgrowth of the suveli can grow to gigantic sizes (for example, in the Vatican there is a font carved from a single piece of wood). However, the finer the swirl, the richer and brighter the drawing inside, although the pattern with ornamental elements will in any case be softer (without patterns in the form of “thorns” and “needles”, which are obligatory for the burl).

The internal texture of the suvel has a delicate mother-of-pearl hue, and the colors of each can vary greatly and contain white, yellow (resembling the color of amber), as well as brown, pinkish and green colors. The shade of suveli depends on the place where the tree grows and how it is dried.

Suvel can be formed by yourself, for this it is enough to drag the trunk or branch of the tree with wire. In place of the constriction, a convex formation will soon appear, created by annual rings.

Souvelle also lends itself well to processing, well ground, polished, and its mother-of-pearl cut, reminiscent of marble, playing with stains, has a unique texture and, as it were, glows from the inside.

Of course, it is impossible to determine how beautiful the drawing will be by the appearance of the suveli, but the more clumsy and twisted the growth looks externally, the richer its texture and pattern inside will be.

The root (butt) part of the suveli is considered the most valuable. It is of interest to wood carvers, painters, knife makers, sculptors and cabinetmakers, who choose this material for its exclusivity in cut, high strength, rot resistance and unique workability.

Search and preparation of growths

Naturally, it is necessary to look for bulges on a tree in the forest. At the same time, many people confuse burl and sville with a fungus similar to them from the genus (Inonotus), which most often lives on birch and is called chaga or black birch mushroom.

It is necessary to learn to determine where the fungus is and where the growth is.

It is best to cut down the streak and burl in autumn (September-October), when the trees stop the natural movement of sap and begin preparations for winter.

It must be remembered that without a good saw, a suvel or cap, especially if they are very clumsy, is not easy to cut, so this work is best done with a chainsaw, but it must be remembered that the tool chains quickly become dull due to the special strength of the build-up.

If there is no chainsaw, you will have to work with a hand saw, but it must have sharply honed teeth with a good divorce so that the master does not torment himself or the tree, and does not injure him in vain.

The place of the cut (to avoid the formation of a hollow that is undesirable for the tree) must be immediately covered with garden pitch, painted over with oil paint or covered with clay.

When a massive kapokornya, it must be remembered that its cut is fraught with serious consequences for the tree and as a result of the injury it may die.

All of the above properties, both burl and svit, elevate these unique materials to the pinnacle of value among other types of wood, since they are used both in the decoration of various utilitarian items, as well as jewelry, small plastic and utensils.

Burlap wood is rare, natural material, developing in the form of growths on the branches, trunks and at the roots of individual trees, mainly deciduous species: oak, walnut, maple, poplar, but most often - birch. Caps are places of growth of closely spaced adnexal and dormant buds.

The most rare, beautiful, durable and, accordingly, the most valuable is the branch burl, which has a small size (up to 15 cm in diameter) and a needle-like structure. The most common, less dense and less valuable is the root burl - kapokoren, which can reach gigantic (up to 1.5 ... 2 m in diameter) sizes. The stem cap occupies an intermediate position between the above varieties.

For a long time it was believed that burl is a painful growth on a tree, arising from the "clamping" of the buds by sudden and prolonged spring colds, which sometimes occur during the growing season of the plant.

The appearance of outgrowths was also associated with external damage to the cortex at the site of one of the dormant buds, where the excess influx of juices is directed, contributing to their multiple multiplication.

However, scientists came to the conclusion that cap is a biologically normal, protective phenomenon. Burl birch is the most valuable variety of Russian downy birch and burl formation on it is a naturally inherited process.

As a result of observations, it was found that the health of such a tree is better than that of others, it is more viable during the spring flood and frequent shift temperature, more stable in the wind.

A real burl, which has an uneven surface under the bark in the form of tubercles, papillae or needles, should be distinguished from an influx (suvel) caused by local deformation of the annual layers of wood. Such influxes have an increased density and an interesting, albeit less spectacular, pattern.

The burl has a significantly (50...70%) denser than the mother wood with a wavy, multidirectional fiber structure, which, in combination with a large number of the above-mentioned buds, form an absolutely unique cut pattern.

A unique combination of properties of burl wood:

The limited natural resources, combined with the above properties, puts this material on top of the value among other types of wood, with all the species diversity. flora our planet.

According to some estimates, 1 tree with a burl accounts for, on average, 3000-5000 ordinary trees without a burl.

Due to the high value of the material, since 1959, the Central Research Institute of Forest Genetics of the USSR Academy of Sciences has been studying the biology of burl and methods of growing it, which has developed a technology for sowing and growing burl birches. A whole grove of such birches was planted in the suburbs. Since 1967, burl birch has been planted in several forestries of the Kirov region.

For the unique beauty of cap is called wooden malachite!

In general, the smaller the pattern and the larger the cap size, the more expensive it is.

The value of this unique material speaks historical fact, given in the book “The Burl Box” (author Nadezhda Perminova): “... in 1837, for a growth of a cap of twenty pounds (a little more than 8 kg), they paid up to fifty rubles, ...., a thoroughbred bull at an agricultural exhibition was estimated at the same amount.”

Today, on the world market, the price of burl wood (solid and veneer) is several times higher than the price of any other, including: oak, elm, walnut, mahogany and any exotic species.

The unique combination of material properties, limited stocks and the uniqueness of the burl pattern in each product ultimately determined the generally recognized, high aesthetic value and corresponding consumer price of products made from this wood, which is used in the decoration of the most luxurious interiors, as well as in the manufacture of corresponding level of utilitarian items.

Each such product initially contains spirit of elitism.

(Based on the book "Kapovaya casket" by N.I. Perminova, the city of Gorky, Volga-Vyatka book edition, 1984)

Cap, suvel. Harvesting, drying, properties.

The author of this material is a great specialist in the artistic processing of wood (and not only wood), already familiar to us from Sergei from the Moscow region. Today Sergey will reveal a secret to readers quick drying so rare and interesting materials like cap and suvel. The information is very rare and useful. Reading...

So first, let's define some concepts.
KAP - (aka a witch's broom) is a benign formation on a tree, which is a bundle of thin twigs growing from a drop-shaped (most often) growth. When cross-sectioned, it has a texture with pronounced knot cores. It is difficult to process due to the strongly curly texture and the huge number of knots. Extremely beautiful, durable, perfectly sanded and polished.
Separate numerous areas have a mother-of-pearl tint. It has no great industrial value, but is highly valued because of its beauty. If it is used in industry, it is only in the form of veneer for furniture finishing (mostly exotic wood burl is used), as well as the production of small items such as caskets, cigarette cases, women's hairpins, small jewelry (birch burl). The use on knife handles is considered good taste and is also prized by wood carvers for its unique texture.
It is impossible to find two identical pieces of burl, even halves of a sawn burl have a different pattern, the growth is so heterogeneous. It grows on many trees (linden, alder, birch, maple, oak, etc.), but the most valuable and beautiful is birch (from those growing in our latitudes). The build-up is usually small, maximum the size of a volleyball or a large plate.
Cutting some kind of pattern on the cap does not make sense, since the texture clogs everything.
The photo shows a birch burl. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get a cut of a birch burl (I took these pictures near the local police station and, as you understand, they wouldn’t give me anything to cut down there ... But I contrived and found a burl of ash, most of the burls are similar in texture and differ only color and size of knot cores.

SUVEL - (aka svil) As the name implies, the outgrowth got its name because of its structure (twisted structure, that's putting it mildly). Suvel is a drop-shaped or spherical growth on a tree (there is also an annular variety, it covers the tree trunk around the perimeter), it usually grows 2-3 times faster than the tree itself. When sawn, it has a texture similar in pattern to marble and mother-of-pearl (this is the main sign of difference from CAPA, in the future do not confuse suvel and burl).
The presence of mother-of-pearl stains on a polished tree creates a beautiful iridescent picture that glows from the inside. The twist is also poorly processed, like the burl, but not as hard. The size varies from a walnut up to 1.5 meters high (I saw one on a birch) and up to 2 meters in diameter (annular suvel completely covered the tree trunk). In the Vatican, there is a font much more than a meter in diameter, carved from a single piece of suvel. He himself once sat in an armchair carved from suveli. Holds fine thread perfectly, but it is not recommended to cut the suvel. It is better to sand and varnish (impregnate with oil). The product will only benefit from this.
The most valuable is the root or butt streak. The presence of dark veins and well-defined twisted annual rings. This is a fairytale. BEAUTIFUL, that says it all. The barrel suvel is distinguished by a finer texture and a finer "frosty" pattern. And lighter wood. In terms of strength, the butt suvel is slightly superior to the stem one due to the structural features of the tree trunk. Suvel is strong, beautiful, easily polished and polished. Well-dried and processed, it begins to "glow" from the inside (with proper impregnation with oils, the tree becomes like amber and even a little transparent). Usually has a color from pale yellow to pinkish brown to quite ocher brown. It all depends on the conditions and drying time. Cap has the same colors.
Photos:

As you can see, the cap does not look like a suvel at all.

Chaga is a mushroom (not to be confused with a tinder fungus !!!) and we do not need it for our purposes.

So, how to dry. I must say right away that the "steaming" method is suitable for small pieces of wood. Somewhere in the half of a football ball or a small log.

1. We cut down the growth. We do this with a sharp saw. Otherwise, you will be tormented by sawing, and the tree will begin to shaggy. We do not clean the bark. Do not forget to cover the cut on the tree with oil paint or wax, or something similar.

CUTTING THE GROWTHS IS DESIRABLE IN THE DRY SEASON, IDEALLY - AT THE END OF AUGUST, THE BEGINNING OF SEPTEMBER, BEFORE THE BEGINNING OF Sap ​​Flow.

2. We take an unnecessary pan (bucket), and throw a piece of wood there. The pan is precisely unnecessary, since during the cooking process a very tricky broth is formed, which is then very troublesome to wash. It is better to clean the piece of wood from all sorts of rags of birch bark and other fragile and dangling tails. still fall off.
I consider the birch growth as the most accessible and beautiful, the rest of the growths are cooked using the same technology. The log is accordingly cleaned of any debris and fragile particles. We pour water. It is convenient to do this with a faceted glass (it contains 250 ml). Water should cover the piece of wood by about a centimeter or two. The tree naturally floats up, but let's press it to the bottom and see everything. It doesn't matter if you pour water, cold or hot - it will boil anyway. You can throw a piece of wood into a saucepan no matter how much it is a pity, the volume of a separate piece of wood is important and not the total volume of wood.

3. We take table salt, which is not a pity. We don't make soup. Pour 2 large tablespoons with a top of salt per liter of water (who will count glasses of water ??? Huh?). It is possible and more, no matter how much it is a pity, it's okay, it's impossible to overdo it.
The main thing is that the water should be sugary salty. You can use clean sea water (just clean, otherwise it will be disgusting to smell like mud).
Salt will draw juices from the tree, but the tree will not saturate.

4. We find sawdust of resinous wood species. Spruce, pine, the easiest to get. We take a saw: and forward. We need two powerful handfuls of sawdust (we rake the sawdust with both hands). It is sawdust, and not shavings from a simple hand planer.
The shavings will come from an electric planer (you can get it at the nearest sawmill or cut it yourself). I always use them. They are quite small and are usually plentiful and easy to obtain. The more resin in the sawdust, the better. And the smaller the sawdust, the better. We fall asleep in a saucepan. It was possible to take a saucepan and more! Sawdust will give the suveli a pleasant ocher color. From soft pink-yellow to ocher-brown. And also resins will add strength to wood and show texture.

5. When the water boils, reduce the fire and leave it simmering for 6-8 hours, maybe more, as long as you have enough patience.
If the saucepan is large, then you can not turn down the flame, let the water boil and bubble. But you need to watch that the water does not boil away completely. Salt, sawdust, temperature and time will do their job. Add water as needed. During the cooking process, a red "broth" is formed. And scum. Scale is best removed immediately. It is very difficult to wash off.

6. 6-8 hours have passed (depending on the size of the piece of wood). We take out the wood. Rinse under running water from sawdust. We throw out the water from the pan as useless, but you can leave it for the next time, if you have somewhere to store it. But pouring water is easier. We throw the build-up on the cabinet with nothing on wrapping it. For a day or two, let it cool down.

7 The process of cooking and drying is repeated 2-4 times, depending on the volume of wood.
You can use a pressure cooker to speed up the process. Time is reduced to 4-6 hours.

8. At the last cooking, you need to quickly peel off the bark while the tree is hot. Although she herself should fall off by this time. Carefully!!! Hot!!! use gloves!

9. We throw it on the closet for a week or two. The wood is basically already dry, but let the remaining moisture go.
The tree will "get used" to the atmosphere. After the final drying, the tree will become like a bone, and it will be possible to cut, saw, grind it. There will be no foreign smell. It will only smell like wood.

10. In the process of accelerated drying of wood, it must be remembered that small cracks may appear, and therefore an allowance must be made for their removal in subsequent processing.

11. Where to look for growths... Naturally in the forest. BUT! there are no specific places of growth, they grow spontaneously, and the largest and most beautiful growths will be found by the most big-eyed and persistent. This activity is akin to hunting for mushrooms, whoever ran around the forest more and further got more.
Look like that's it. Once again I remind you that large pieces cannot be dried like that. Cracked. Necessarily. Checked.

12. After the tree has finally become accustomed to the atmosphere, you can start working with the workpiece. It is desirable to impregnate the suvel and cap with oil, and if there is a desire, then with wax too. The tree will show the texture, "play" what is called, all the inner beauty will appear.

If you have any questions or any clarifications about the above technology, I will answer to the best of my ability and ability.

I'm finishing with this, your Serjant.

Kap - these are growths and thickenings that are found on the trunks of birch, maple, oak, walnut, pine, etc. There are such influxes in places of tissue growth:

Its name comes from the Slavic "cap" - head. And indeed the cap resembles a human head on a tree. Cap is found on the branches of old trees, on trunks. There is also a kapo-root, this is a burl that formed at the root of the tree. The largest kapo-roots reach a diameter of 2m. Furniture is often made from capo root:

As it is an extremely durable and extremely decorative material, which is valued on a par with precious wood. The texture of its pattern on the cut is an interweaving of annual layers, the core of dormant buds in the form of concentric circles and dark dots. There are more dormant buds in the stem cap than in the capo root, so its texture is more expressive:

Burl is harvested only from fallen trees in the places of sawmills. After the burl is cut, it is freed from bark, knots, resin. Then the workpiece is boiled in a 5% solution of common salt. The duration of boiling depends on the diameter of the workpiece: up to 10 cm in diameter is boiled for about an hour, large workpieces are boiled for up to 3-5 hours.

Boiling is necessary to neutralize the juice inside the workpiece, so it dries faster. After boiling, until the workpiece has dried, it is cleaned of the remnants of the bark. Boiling makes the texture of the pattern more expressive. Then the blanks are dried for several weeks indoors, or for several hours in an oven or on a radiator. After that, the cap is sawn into plates. After that, they give all free rein to fantasy, making sure that your ideas do not contradict the natural beauty of wood, emphasizing its structure. The inner part of the product is chosen with an adze, semicircular chisels, cranberries. At finishing products remove excess knots, trying to reveal the game different layers wood, sanded with sandpaper. Small cracks can be puttied by mixing small sawdust with PVA glue. If desired, the product can be tinted with stains or natural dyes, such as onion skins, alder cones, etc. You can cover the finished product with varnish or wax mastic.

Beautiful caskets, smoking pipes, chess, knife handles are made from burl:

And also very decorative vases, candlesticks and just sculptures for decorating the interior of natural forms are obtained from the burl:

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