How to restore a finger battery with lemon juice. Avalanche resuscitation of batteries. Why test NiMH batteries
Today's video is dedicated to interesting ways How can you extend the life of a dead battery? What to do if they shrank and you need to restore them so that they last for some more time. The proposed method is not new, but it will differ from what we are used to seeing and hearing. Told by the author of the channel Homemade and gadget +.
So, our batteries are in a flashlight with a fan. Let's check how they work. It can be seen that the flashlight is on, the fan rotates with difficulty. Naturally, they sat down. We take out the dead batteries of this device and check it with a tester. Now let's leave them in a pre-prepared container, which will contain a stand so that the batteries are in a vertical position. The stand is made of ordinary plastic couplings.
Place the container with its nose down and up and fill it with water 3-5 mm below the top level of the battery. This is necessary so that there is no short circuit between plus and minus through the water. Fill with water, ordinary water, literally two minutes after it was heated to a boil. Leave in this position for 10-15 minutes until the water cools to room temperature.
The water has cooled down. We take it out and check it with a tester. The device shows that the batteries are almost restored to their original charge.
It can be seen that the flashlight shines brighter than before the service extension, and the fan has also restored its operation.
This method was tested only on alkaline batteries.
Restoring salt batteries
In this video I will share my method of restoring salt AA batteries. To do this, we need the batteries themselves, electrical tape, a marker, scissors, a testing device, a syringe and a working solution. First, let's check for functionality. As you can see, they are generally dead. Let's see what the device shows. We take them out and start restoring their operation.
Important information. Only salt batteries are suitable for this experiment. They must be intact on the outside, there should be no leaks or discharge. Batteries of other types, that is, alkaline, alkaline or rechargeable, are not suitable for this method. This is dangerous to your health.
So, we take a salt battery, find the connecting seam and make 4 marks at an angle of 90 degrees to the seam at a distance of 1 centimeter from the edge. In these places we make holes with a 4-mm drill. We drill very carefully so as not to damage the shell, we drill only the outer shell, no more.
After making holes for the batteries, place them in one container with the plus side on top. Fill with working solution so that the level covers the top drilling. We use 6 percent food grade vinegar as a solution. Fill it out carefully. Leave the batteries in this state for 10-15 minutes. The temperature of the solution should be room temperature. We wait 15 minutes and proceed further. After the batteries have been soaked in the solution, carefully lay them out and place them to dry, seam side down, so that the excess is absorbed onto a napkin. Leave in this state for 10 minutes. Next, cover the hole with regular electrical tape.
It's here The final stage our experience in charge restoration. We check with the device. We insert them into the flashlight and try to turn it on. The light is on. The experience was a success. Let me remind you that this method of extending operation is only suitable for salt batteries.
Did the battery from your camera, flashlight, children's toy or other necessary device suddenly run out? Such an eventuality cannot be foreseen. Unless you use special batteries with indicators. Or be careful not to carry a replacement with you. How to charge batteries at home? We will share with you useful instructions and recommendations.
What batteries can be charged?
Not every AA battery can be filled with energy using a homemade method. What batteries can be charged? Only finger alkaline (alkaline). But under no circumstances should you eat salt! The possibility of leakage or explosion of the product cannot be ruled out.
Method 1: Charger
We figured out whether the battery can be charged. If you constantly use such AA batteries, then the easiest way for you is to buy a special Charger for them. Such a device will help to “breathe life” into the battery without unnecessary hassle.
However, the method also has significant drawbacks. Each charge reduces battery life by one third. In addition, the procedure may cause leakage of its composition.
Method 2: Power Supply
Let's look at how to charge batteries at home. For this method, you will need a power supply and wires to connect to it. Everything is in place? Here are the instructions for action:
When receiving a rechargeable AA battery using this method, pay attention to these recommendations:
- The process will not work if you reverse the polarity when connecting the wires. Moreover, in this way you will destroy the remaining charge in the element.
- Using the described method, the battery can be charged 1-2 times.
- The method is only suitable for finger-type alkaline cells!
- The procedure can be performed in any conditions environment(except for the freezer stage).
Method 3: Heating
You can also restore the battery charge by regular heating. But be careful - this method may cause the product to explode!
The simplest thing is this:
Method 4: Volume reduction
The method is quite incomprehensible and exotic at first glance. We need to reduce the size of the battery so that the charge in it is restored on its own.
What should you do for this? Mechanically reduce and make the body volume thinner. To do this, the battery is hit against something hard - asphalt, wall, stone, brick, etc. Or they simply trample on it with thick shoes. You can try to flatten it with a handy tool - for example, pliers.
This method will charge everything AA batteries. It must be said that such a “barbaric” method helps restore the charge in some cases even to 100%!
Method 5: exposure to solutions
We continue to look at how to charge batteries at home. Within this method, two methods can be distinguished.
Instructions for the first:
How to charge batteries at home in another way:
- Use an awl or similar tool to make holes in the battery caps next to the carbon rod. The depth of each should be within 3/4 of the height of the entire battery.
- Pour liquid into the hole. You can take not ordinary water, but a solution of double vinegar or hydrochloric acid (no more than 8-10%).
- To sufficiently saturate the base, you need to repeat the pouring procedure several times, maintaining time intervals so that the composition has time to be absorbed.
- Finally, be sure to seal the holes. For these purposes, it is best to use resin or plasticine.
- Now you can use the battery - its charge should be restored to 70-80%.
Now you know how to charge a AA alkaline battery. Choose any method convenient for you. And, most importantly, be extremely careful! Careless actions may cause the battery to explode!
In the first part of the article, maintenance of NiMH AA batteries, we stopped at comparative characteristics smart charger (analyzer) TechnoLine BC-700, which left its competitors from the first two types of chargers far behind, without leaving them even the slightest chance.
Today we will continue to consider issues related to this charger-analyzer, using the example of which I will talk about how restore lost capacity of old NiMH(nickel-metal hydride) batteries, or those batteries that have lost their main working capacity due to long-term storage without recharging.
But before we begin to consider issues related to restoring battery capacity, I propose to start the conversation from another point - testing NiMH batteries.
Testing NiMH batteries - TechnoLine BC-700, “TEST” mode
To find out the real capacity of a AA NiMH battery, that is, what state it is in this moment, we will use the “TEST” mode of the TechnoLine BC-700 charger, pictured below.
Operating principle of the “TEST” mode
The first stage of “CHARGE” is charging the batteries (up to 1.49V - 1.57V);
The second stage “DISCHARGE” - discharge of batteries (up to 0.9V) to determine capacity;
The third stage of “CHARGE” is charging the batteries.
Thus, after completing the second stage - “DISCHARGE”, we will be able to determine the true capacity of a particular battery.
Why test NiMH batteries?
This must be done in order to remove the “weak link” from the battery set, due to which not only the entire set of batteries suffers, but also the equipment in which this set of batteries is installed. If in a set of four batteries one battery is defective, do not expect stable operation from this set.
For example, if you insert a set of freshly charged batteries into a microcomputer flash (Nikon Speedlight SB-900), of which one battery is defective, do not expect full operation of your flash. Furthermore, an unbalanced set of NiMH batteries can cause failure of a flash of this class. To prevent this from happening, you should weed out “dead” batteries from the battery set.
In the photo above, the TechnoLine BC-700 charger is operating in “TEST” mode.
The LCD display displays information about current processes, which shows what is currently happening with a specific battery.
And the following happens in the “TEST” mode:
The batteries are charged with a current of 200mA (pictured above, left);
- Discharge current 110mA (pictured above, right);
- Time spent on charging (h);
- Current voltage on the bank (V);
- Battery capacity after the “DISCHARGE” stage (mAh/Ah)
You can switch the display of information for each battery using the “DISPLAY” button by first selecting the desired section by pressing one of the buttons (1,2,3,4). If you press the “DISPLAY” button without first selecting a section, one of the “TEST” mode parameters for all sections will be displayed. Thus, using the LCD display, we can monitor ongoing processes, which is very convenient and useful. Once the testing process is complete, the LCD display will alternately display “FULL” and the capacity of each battery in (mAh) or (Ah).
If the obtained test result confused you a little, it turned out that a “Cossack” was “lost” in the set of NiMH batteries, that is, the low capacity of one or more batteries was detected. In this case, we can try to restore the lost battery capacity. And the “REFRESH” mode, which is provided in the TechnoLine BC-700 charger, will help us in this difficult task.
Restoring battery capacity - TechnoLine BC-700, “REFRESH” mode
Sooner or later, the capacity of NiMH batteries begins to decline. The reasons for capacity loss have already been discussed in the article Storage conditions for NiMH batteries, so I will not repeat them. Restoring battery capacity consists of a series of charge-discharge cycles, the so-called “training”.
The principle is simple: - we discharge the battery to 0.9V, after which we charge it to 1.49V - 1.57V; then discharge-charge again... This will continue until the battery capacity stops increasing. The recovery process can take a week or more... Therefore, since you have decided to resurrect your dead NiMH batteries, you will have to be patient.
In order not to overshadow the process of restoring batteries with a sudden jump in network voltage alternating current, which can damage your favorite charger, or a banal sudden loss of voltage in the mains, I advise you to connect the charger to an uninterruptible power supply (UPS).
The photo below shows the operating mode of the TechnoLine BC-700 charger - “REFRESH” (recovery).
On the left side of the photo, all 4 batteries are in REFRESH mode; the battery in the first section is discharged - “DISCHARGE”, and the other three are charged - “CHARGE”. This is a normal phenomenon, because you and I already know that there are no absolutely identical NiMH batteries, and even more so if they are quite old. pay attention to charge current 3rd and 4th sections. The charge current is set differently here, specifically to demonstrate the capabilities of this charger.
So, the battery in the third sector is charged with a current of 198mA, and the battery in the fourth sector is charged with a current of 503mA. Independent sectors of the charger give us the opportunity to set the charge/discharge current for each battery individually. This may come in handy when you need simultaneously charge batteries of different capacities, for example, 1800mAh and 3000mAh.
That is, for a 1800mAh battery we can set the charge current to 200mA, and for a battery with a capacity of 3000mAh we can set the charge current to 500mA or any other charging current available on this charger (200mA, 500mA, 700mA).
The charging current can be set using the “CURRENT” button. To activate the current selection mode, after installing the battery and selecting the operating mode of the charger, hold the “CURRENT” button pressed for 1 second, then select the charge current by pressing the button.
The right side of the photo demonstrates the operation of the TechnoLine BC-700 charger, which can operate simultaneously in two different modes. IN in this case, two modes are installed: for sectors 1,2,3 - “REFRESH” mode (recovery) with a charge current of 500mA, and the 4th sector is in “CHARGE” (charging) mode with a charge current of 200mA. This may be necessary when you simply need to charge one or more batteries without interrupting the process of restoring the capacity of other batteries.
Note. When charging a NiMH battery in the “CHARGE” mode, there will be a slight increase in the battery capacity compared to the nameplate. For example, a battery with a capacity of 1800mAh will continue to charge up to a capacity of 2520mAh (2.52Ah on the LCD display).
This is a normal phenomenon, do not worry, because... NiMH batteries require a charge of 40% more than their rated capacity. But if the battery capacity when charging exceeds 40% of the permissible norm, for example, by 100% (3.60Ah), then this battery is in a deep coma or simply died, which is why it refuses to accept a charge.
A dead battery can also be identified by signs of excessive heating; During the charging process, a dead NiMH battery heats up an order of magnitude hotter than all the others. This is due to destruction chemical composition batteries and too high level internal resistance. It is better to throw away such a battery immediately without wasting time on its restoration.
High temperature of NiMH batteries (during charging/discharging) contributes to irreversible degradation processes chemical elements electrolyte, which leads to destruction of their structure, resulting in an increase in internal resistance and a significant drop in battery capacity. When charging/discharging, avoid excessive heating of the battery; observe temperature regime: - When you touch the battery with your finger, it should be warm, but not hot. If the temperature of the batteries is too high, they should be provided with forced cooling.
Also, do not charge the battery at low/negative air temperatures and/or too high humidity(more than 75-80%). Optimal conditions for servicing NiMH batteries are a dry, heated living room, air temperature 15-25°C.
When restoring large-capacity batteries (2700mAh - 3000mAh), you should set the charge current to 500mA, respectively, the discharge current to 250mA, in the photo above, see the right side - sectors 2 and 3.
These are the optimal currents for these batteries. If you set a charge current of 200mA for such batteries, the charger may refuse to serve your batteries with such a current, and after the first discharge-charge cycle, it will simply complete the recovery process; You will see the message “FULL” on the LCD display, see photo above - sector 1.
You cannot change the operating mode or charging current of the first sector without removing all batteries from the charger. If in the first sector the charge current is set to 200mA, then in the remaining sectors, when changing the operating mode, it is not allowed to set higher charge currents (500mA, 700mA). If the maximum charge current is set in the first sector (700mA), in the remaining sections you can change the charge current to 200mA or 500mA.
If, during operation of a mode, for example, the “REFRESH” mode, using the “MODE” button, you change to another operating mode of the charger for a certain sector, for example, to the “TEST” mode, the selected mode is activated for all sectors.
The completion of the NiMH battery reconditioning process will occur for each battery in different time, no matter what set of batteries we are restoring - old batteries or ones just bought in a store. The spread in the time it takes to complete the recovery process for each battery can be quite significant: from a few seconds to several days. Yes, they all start at the same time, but they reach the finish line at different times.
This is normal practice, do not worry, because... All batteries are individuals, each with its own special “character”. It doesn’t matter which of the NiMH battery packs finished first, the main thing is what result (capacity) they returned to us with.
It is very important that the AA NiMH batteries of the same set have the same or at least approximately the same capacity (+/- 3-5% of the nameplate capacity), because Much depends on their cohesion and balance. For now, let’s put an end to the topic of servicing NiMH AA batteries. I look forward to your questions and comments in the comments. Thank you for your attention.
Comments (19 )
Alcor 01/17/2014 06:36
A small note:
if you put a battery in the first compartment for charging and set the charge current to 500 mA, then in the 2, 3, 4 compartments you can install only 500 or 200 mA, but not 700. In the first compartment, the maximum battery is charged, and in subsequent compartments - a similar or smaller one, because It is impossible to set the current higher than the first compartment.
Denis 01/28/2014 18:27
Unfortunately, I cannot disconnect my stick of metal hydride batteries where each is 6500mAh 1.2v. They are welded into a metal rod. Please advise other options. I have 20 of these sticks and each has 6 of these elements.
Andrey Ko 01/28/2014 18:31
Denis, unfortunately, I can’t help you. In my practice, I have not yet encountered such sticks with batteries inside. Maybe one of the readers can answer your question. I think this charger is not suitable for restoring your batteries, although I could be wrong.
Andrey Ko 01/18/2016 13:26
Oleg, hello!
If you are using TechnoLine BC-700, this behavior of this charger indicates that the inserted battery is almost or completely discharged, so it immediately goes into charging mode.
If you are sure that the battery is not completely discharged but the charger refuses to discharge it, I can assume that the charger has failed or only the first compartment.
After removal, the batteries have a voltage of 1.30v and 1.33v. I insert it into the film to check Canon camera, but it doesn't work. Frame rewind starts and stops. The batteries are dead, but the TechnoLine BC-700 is trying to charge to no avail. I tried to charge it 3 times and the camera can’t even rewind the frame. Each time TechnoLine BC-700 shows charge numbers above normal. The Sony charger, as befits a smart charger, does not want to charge. Let me add that the Sony automatic charger is fully functional and perfectly charges working batteries.
In the same way, I charged the TechnoLine BC-700, once round Ni-Cd batteries of the “big pill” type from the “Cosmos” flashlight. There are 3 round batteries there. They were also trashed, but I tried charging a few of them on the TechnoLine BC-700. Oddly enough, but here too each battery gained more than 1000mAh. After charging, there is no charge in the battery.
Most The best way checking the battery or battery not with a multimeter, but with a 2.5-3.5 volt light bulb from household flashlights. If the light shines brightly, then there is still enough charge in the battery. If the light is not bright and yellow, then the battery is low. A multimeter can show on the battery that the voltage is, for example, 1.2v or 1.3v. It seems that there is a charge, but sometimes the light does not shine at all and even a quartz alarm clock will not work on such a battery.
Andrey Ko 07.11.2016 11:06
Your old laptop's battery has died, and you don't have the money for a new one. Sad story... We take the technical passport of this battery or find its data on the Internet and look at its parameters - capacity, voltage, power, etc. We open the battery and look at the size and number of elements. They are similar in size to regular AA batteries. Next, we go to the nearest electrical goods store and buy ordinary AA batteries of the required configuration. We insert it back and seal the case - that’s it.
This simple process will cost you several times less than buying a new original battery. And now in more detail. Laptop batteries use lithium-ion and lithium-polymer cells, while devices released three or four years ago could also contain nickel-metal hydride components. In order to determine the cause of the defect, you need to know how these elements function.
Nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) batteries have replaced nickel-cadmium (NiCd) batteries, and despite their highly touted benefits, they have generally failed to live up to consumer expectations due to their reduced battery life. nickel-cadmium batteries service life., have become more advanced due to changes in production technology.
NiMH batteries have their advantages and disadvantages. The disadvantages include, as already mentioned, a limited service life (300 charge-discharge cycles), increased self-discharge, and the presence of a “memory effect”. This effect often occurs when batteries are used incorrectly - before charging, they must be periodically completely discharged, otherwise the capacity will inexorably decrease regardless of the number of charge-discharge cycles and charging time. In addition, the significant size and weight per unit of energy intensity were not pleasing. The advantages were low price, frost resistance and a longer service life than lithium-ion batteries.
These batteries must be subjected to initial (upon purchase) and periodic “training”, the essence of which is to completely discharge them and then charge them in order to avoid the occurrence of a “memory effect”.
Lithium-ion (Li-ion) and lithium-polymer (Li-pol) batteries are widely used in mobile technology, which is due to the high density of electrical energy per unit mass, and therefore smaller weight and dimensions compared to NiMH batteries. They do not impose any requirements for their own maintenance and do not have a “memory effect”. But they also have negative sides: in many cases, such batteries can only operate at positive ambient temperatures, are quite expensive and are subject to the aging process even when not in use. The reduction in capacity begins after about a year of service, and their lifespan is designed for approximately 200-300 charge-discharge cycles.
Let's dig deeper?
It should be noted here that all of the above is true only theoretically and is declared by the manufacturers of both batteries and batteries for mobile devices. Of course, in most cases all this is true, but there are exceptions due to design features batteries. The fact is that laptop batteries consist not of one, but of a group of series-connected elements or even blocks (sometimes, to increase the battery capacity, several batteries are connected in parallel, creating blocks, which in turn are connected in series to achieve the voltage required to power the device) . And this is where the main reason for the battery failure lies.
.
No matter how the manufacturer strives to select components with completely identical characteristics, this is almost impossible to do. And if you new battery The elements are more or less the same in terms of basic parameters (capacitance, voltage, internal resistance), but after a year of operation the difference can reach up to 20%. It would seem, just think - 20%, no big deal.
Well, the device will operate on batteries not for three hours, but, say, for two and a half. But it's not just a matter of time. The variation in characteristics leads to a significant deterioration in the performance of the charger, and this is especially critical for lithium-ion cells. Despite the assurances of laptop manufacturers about the “intelligence” of their chargers, the basic requirements for charging elements specified in the accompanying documentation for batteries are not met, both in the case of lithium-ion and nickel-metal hydride. The problem is that to ensure a normal charge, each of the battery cells must be charged separately from the others. But then, if the battery consists of nine lithium-ion cells, it will require nine expensive intelligent controllers to charge it, allowing you to determine the end of the process by a tiny dip charging current, which in practice will lead to a significant increase in both the cost and size of the laptop. Therefore, the so-called sequential charging method is used with control of the end of the process when the battery reaches a certain voltage. For lithium-ion cells, this parameter is 4.2 V, respectively, for the entire battery of three groups of elements, the voltage will be 4.2-3 = 12.6 V. This is quite acceptable for elements that are identical in characteristics or differ by a fraction of a percent. Greater difference leads to the fact that some cells are undercharged, while in others the excess charge begins to be utilized in the form of heat and increased gas formation.
Here it is necessary to return to consideration of the structure of a lithium-ion battery. Since its elements are quite dangerous in operation (remember the numerous stories about explosions and fires of “gray” mobile phones), any battery has several degrees of protection. The very first one is located in each cylindrical element and is a small concave plate located under the positive terminal. This plate is designed to prevent the element from exploding when high blood pressure: in case of “overcharging”, it opens the circuit, stopping the voltage supply. Despite the fact that after this the pressure inside the element drops to a normal value, the plate does not return to its original state. Theoretically, such an element (and according to manufacturers, the entire battery) must be replaced.
A second protective circuit is installed in the battery controller. It consists of a microprocessor that monitors the voltage level on each cell (in some cases only the total battery voltage is monitored) and an electronic switch that opens the circuit if the charge voltage exceeds 4.2 V per cell or the voltage of a discharged battery is less than 3.4 V per cell. element (sometimes this indicator may vary). In principle, nothing fatal can happen here, with the exception of two cases. The first is if the cell voltage drops below 2.8 V (and this happens when the battery is stored for a long time without recharging). In this case, the cells turn off, and the laptop charger thinks that the battery is faulty. And secondly, in the event of a short circuit of the terminals (despite the presence of a fuse in each battery), the controller key fails, which also leads to the inoperability of the battery.
The third chain of protection is the identification firmware built into the controller ROM. It serves to determine the type and capacity of the cells by the charger, and also prevents the use of third-party batteries.
Nickel metal hydride cells are much easier to use. They are not afraid of “overcharging”, can withstand prolonged heating without significant deterioration in performance and do not have any protective equipment built into the element. However, due to the use of sequential type chargers, failure of a battery made on their basis can occur even with completely serviceable elements. As a rule, this defect is a consequence of working on a laptop that is constantly connected to the network. AC voltage. Due to the fact that individual elements have a “memory effect” and a fairly large spread of characteristics, charging occurs unevenly. That is, when some elements are already fully charged, others have not reached even half of the norm. As a result, the voltage on the charged cells begins to increase (for nickel-metal hydride it is 1.4 V), and the controller considers that the process is completed, which leads to a decrease in the total battery capacity by 50% (Ohm's law for a series circuit). Over time, this phenomenon intensifies geometric progression, leading to complete battery inoperability.
If you have used our recommendations, the first thing you need to do is find the instructions on the Internet and study them carefully. It is clear that, as a rule, no one does this, but in vain. Sometimes you can find everything you need to restore your battery there. The fact is that most laptop manufacturers include in the software a utility for recalibrating, or “training,” the battery, allowing it to return to its former strength within 6-8 hours. For example, in the laptop we purchased, this utility is called when the system boots by pressing the F6 key. Let's consider ourselves lucky - after calling this program and waiting for six hours, the battery became like new. Moreover, the manufacturer recommends conducting such “training” every six months, and in the case of constant operation from the network - once every two months.
If such a program is not provided or it is not possible to find it, you will have to resort to “surgery”. This will require “straight” hands, as well as a certain set of tools - a multimeter (or tester), a soldering iron with a power of no more than 40 W, a breadboard knife, several car light bulbs with wires soldered to them, and superglue based on cyanoacrylate.
First, the battery will have to be disassembled. This is not so easy to do - as a rule, all batteries have a non-separable design, consisting of two glued halves. Therefore, you need to find the seam and try to carefully separate them using a breadboard knife. If this doesn’t work, you can drop the battery several times on the floor (not on a tiled one) from a height of human height - then the process will go much faster. If this does not help, you will have to carefully cut the seam using a breadboard knife, being careful not to damage the internal components.
So, the battery is disassembled. What to do next? This depends on the type of cells used in the battery.
Nickel metal hydride cells
The first thing to do is count the number of elements. The resulting number must be multiplied by 1.2 - the result will be Rated voltage batteries in volts. Next, take a 21 W car light bulb and solder it to the outer terminals of a group of series-connected elements. If it caught fire - good, no - no big deal. Now we need a multimeter. We set the measurement limit to 20 V and check the voltage on the light bulb. If it corresponds to the nominal value, but the laptop does not turn on, the cause of the malfunction is most likely in the battery controller. You can try to repair it yourself (after unsoldering it from the elements), or you can contact a radio amateur you know.
If the voltage is below the nominal one, switch the multimeter to the measurement limit of 2000 mV and check the voltage on individual elements, marking with a felt-tip pen those of them whose voltage is below 1.1 V (it is better to number the elements and write down the voltage values on them in the table) . Next, you need to “train” the battery. To do this, you will need several more light bulbs with soldered wires, which will have to be connected to each (this is important!) battery element. Joined? Now you can take your mind off the battery for ten hours and do something else. Why so long? The fact is that our task is to equalize the voltage on the elements, and this can only be done by bringing it to 0 V. (Although manufacturers claim that if the element is completely discharged, it will definitely fail, in practice this has not been observed.)
After full discharge battery cells need to be charged. Since the battery is completely discharged, a standard charger will not help here - the voltage will have to be “raised”. This can be done using a laptop power supply and a car light bulb connected in series to the battery cells. It is not necessary to wait until the battery is fully charged; it is enough to raise the voltage to 1.1 V per cell, after which it is already possible to use a standard charger.
At the end of the charging cycle, the above process will have to be repeated two more times (at least), after which you can test the battery directly in the laptop.
If the above method of “training” the battery does not lead to a positive result, you will have to change the batteries. Moreover, everything at once - it will not be possible to choose the one that is suitable according to the characteristics, since for this you will need to find a similar battery that has worked for the same number of hours. It is best to use household nickel-metal hydride batteries manufactured by Sanyo with a capacity of 2100 mAh as a “donor”. With good quality, they have a reasonable price, which becomes relevant if your laptop battery contains ten or more batteries. The main thing with such a replacement is to under no circumstances use a soldering iron to connect elements in a serial chain. It is better to put a little more effort and make contact holders to which you can solder the connecting wires.
Lithium-ion cells
As stated above, these batteries are quite dangerous to operate, so repairing the battery will require special care. Before starting any active actions, make sure the battery is completely discharged (if possible). The testing process is basically the same as for nickel-metal hydride batteries, i.e. In the same way, we solder the load bulb to the elements and check the voltage. The difference is that each element should have from 3.7 to 4.1 V. If the light is on and the voltage corresponds to the number of elements multiplied by 3.7 (or exceeds it), you can safely proceed to repair the controller. If the voltage is significantly lower or the battery capacity differs significantly from the original, you will have to check each element separately. Some difficulty lies in the presence of parallel blocks (see above) - for correct diagnosis they will have to be separated by cutting the metal connecting strips-bridges in the middle (this can be done only from one end - positive or negative). Of course, before starting such a test, the battery controller must be unsoldered. Having separated all the elements from each other, you can proceed directly to their diagnosis using a load bulb and a multimeter. We connect the light bulb to the terminals of the multimeter (not the battery) and begin to measure the voltage on each element - it should be in the range of 3.7-4.1 V. If the value is significantly lower or equal to zero, the element is faulty and needs to be replaced. Of course, you can try to repair it by cutting the positive terminal and restoring the protective plate, but, in our opinion, this is impractical: the cost of a new element does not exceed 3-4 dollars.
After diagnostics and identification of faulty elements, the remaining ones must be discharged (using a light bulb) to a voltage of 3.2 V. The same operation will have to be done with new batteries that will be installed in the battery. This procedure is necessary for the controller to start charging the battery from scratch, otherwise problems may subsequently arise with the correct determination of the battery charge level.
Another malfunction that often occurs during the operation (or rather, in the absence of it) of lithium-ion and lithium-polymer batteries is a decrease in the voltage of the elements below the response threshold of the protective controller. In this case, the battery is not charged, and the voltage at its contacts is zero. It is quite easy to eliminate such a defect - just connect the laptop power supply through a 5-W light bulb to a series chain of elements and wait for the battery to charge to a voltage of 3.4 V per element. After this, the battery can be assembled (this is why you will need cyanoacrylate glue) and installed in the laptop for subsequent charging.
Life modern man is very closely connected with a variety of electrical things: be it a portable radio, telephone, flashlight, navigator, camera, and much more! The main thing they all have in common is that they require power sources to function: various batteries and accumulators.
Video version of the article:
Let's talk about some ways to revive dead batteries!
They naturally often sit down, which in turn can deprive us of the chance to use them. And not just in everyday and calm situations, when we can solve the problem by recharging from the network or buying a new battery, but also when you are, for example, on a hike or find yourself in a situation where your life is in danger!
Revitalization of AA batteries.
1 wayprobably known to many, it involves impacting the battery (throw it against the wall, gently tap it with a hammer!) This can return some charge, because in this way the oxides that have formed in the battery are destroyed and it will last for some time. From childhood experience, we can note a more radical effect, crushing the battery (with a multi-tool, if any) in its different parts (someone even uses their teeth and simply bites the battery, which of course we do not recommend).
2 . Battery puncturing different ways V different places, so that the puncture sites do not touch the inner rod. You can pierce randomly, you can make a couple of punctures along the rod at some distance from it, or pierce across the plus and minus, this will give itself the effect of internal processes Air will connect to the battery and form an additional electrode.
3. You can also boil our batteries in boiling water (several minutes).
4. There is also another option: make holes and fill them with water, from a syringe or something else, so that the water does not leak out; cover the holes with electrical tape or whatever is at hand.
Revitalizing coin cell batteries
1. Recharging from a AA battery, we will need two wires and a working AA battery, we will connect (with wires) the plus to the plus, and the minus to the minus of our batteries, and keep them like this for some time.