The main Caucasian ridge on a physical map. The highest Caucasian ranges. Peaks of the Kogutai spur of the Donguzorun

I prefer the unofficial name of the ridge - Cardiogram of the Caucasus. If you look closely, then in the predawn twilight the silhouettes of the mountains really resemble a heartbeat graph. It's really hard to imagine the size of this heart)
During a sortie to Elbrus, the view of the GKH was my main goal, I have long been excited by the panoramas of the mountains taken from Bochek or Pastukhov rocks. Unfortunately, I did not find the weather that I so wanted to shoot - low cloud cover. But lucky to catch the incredible light.
Frankly, it was hard to shoot at an altitude above 3000 meters. On the first evening, I generally thought about how to take the next step, and not about the composition) What can we say, when just tying your shoelaces is a real feat!
Nevertheless, we managed to shoot wonderfully, to catch an incredible sunset and see the most high mountains in Europe.


1. In general, in height, the Caucasian Range is much higher than the Alps; it has at least 15 peaks exceeding 5,000 m, and more than 20 peaks higher than Mont Blanc, the highest peak in all Western Europe. The advanced heights accompanying the Main Range, in most cases, do not have the character of continuous chains, but are short ridges or mountain groups connected with the watershed ridge by spurs and cut through in many places by deep gorges of rivers, which, starting in the Main Range and breaking through the advanced heights, descend to the foothills and out onto the plains.


2. The highest is the middle part of the ridge, between Elbrus and Kazbek (average heights are about 3,400 - 3,500 m above sea level); its highest peaks are concentrated here, the highest of which - Elbrus - reaches a height of 5,642 m above sea level. m.; east of Kazbek and west of Elbrus, the ridge drops, and more significantly in the second direction than in the first.


3. The first sunset on Elbrus. With difficulty moving through the snow, I managed to take a few shots


4. And the first dawn - after sleepless night filled with PAIN. Frankly, I didn’t even want to get out of the sleeping bag, but greed won - I wanted more frames))


5.


6. This shot was taken standing almost waist-deep in snow

In Russia, there are regions with stunning mountain landscapes. The highest and most impressive peaks are located on the Main Caucasian Range. Throughout mountain range peaks differ in their height and massiveness. The direction of the ranges of the Caucasus Mountains is from northwest to southeast.

Caucasian region

Where do you think the Caucasus is located? This amazing mountainous area located between the Black and Caspian Seas. It includes the mountains of the Greater and Lesser Caucasus. The Caucasus Range includes the Riono-Kura depression (depression), the coast of the two seas mentioned above, the Stavropol Upland, a small part of Dagestan, that is, the Caspian lowland, as well as part of the Kuban-Azov slopes.

The main peak of the ridge is the snow-white Mount Elbrus. The entire system of the Main Caucasian Range occupies approximately 2600 km². The northern slope covers about 1450 km², and the southern one - about 1150 km². Now let's take a closer look at the description of the mountain range.

Description of the Greater Caucasus Range

Fans of extreme sports, whether climbers or mountain skiers, have chosen this place for a long time. Those who traveled through the mountains of the Caucasus return to these places again. Thrill-seekers come here from all over the world for thrills.

The main Caucasian ridge, the photo of which is presented in the article, divides the Caucasus into two historical and cultural regions: Northern and Southern. You can find the ridge on the map between the Black and Caspian Seas. For convenient viewing, the mountain range is usually divided into 7 parts:

  1. Black Sea Caucasus (from Anapa to Oshten - 265 km).
  2. Kuban Caucasus (from Oshten to the source of the Kuban - 160 km).
  3. Elbrus Caucasus (from the source of the Kuban to the peak of Adai-hokh - 170 km).
  4. Terek Caucasus (from Adai-khokh to the city of Barbalo - 125 km).
  5. Dagestan Caucasus (from Barbalo to the top of Sari-Dag - 130 km).
  6. Samur Caucasus (from Sari-dag to the city of Baba-dag - 130 km).
  7. Caspian Caucasus (from Baba-dag to the top of Ilkhi-dag - 170 km).

As you can see, 7 regions of the Greater Caucasus Range are divided into approximately equal sections in length.

The height of the mountains is varied: it ranges from 260 to 3360 meters. The climate in these places is light and mild, and in combination with beautiful landscapes, this corner of the planet becomes perfect place for active rest winter and summer.

The Caucasian Range is mainly composed of limestone. In ancient times, this place was located on the ocean floor. Today, if you look at the mountain range from a bird's eye view, you can see the folds of mountains, a huge number of glaciers, active rivers and deep lakes. High basins can be observed along the entire length of the mountain range.

A few words about the northern slope

This side of the Main Caucasian Range is well developed. It is formed from a large number of spurs that adjoin at an angle of 90̊ to the main ridge. The Elbrus fault zone separates the waters of the Caspian Sea and the Kuban. Further, this section decreases in ledges and gently passes into the mountains of Pyatigorsk, as well as the Stavropol Upland.

More developed mountains are located on the northern slope of the Caucasus mountain range on the eastern side, where Dagestan is located. Heading north, they decrease, from there the mountain ranges called the Black Mountains begin. They are gentle and long slopes. Why do you think they were called Black? The thing is that their slopes are covered with dense and impenetrable forests. The height of the Black Mountains is insignificant. However, there are peaks in this area, the height of which reaches 3500 meters. Such peaks include Kargu-Khokh, Vaza-Khokh and others.

Information about the southern slope

Compared to the northern slope, the southern one is much less developed, especially the eastern and western parts of the Caucasus Range. Looking at the map, you can read that this section of the mountain range is adjoined by hills that form the longitudinal valleys of the Enguri, Rioni, and Tskhenis-Tskhali. To the south of the mountain range there are very long spurs that separate the basins of the Alazani, Kura and Iori rivers.

The steepest section of the southern side of the ridge is Mount Zagatala. Its height reaches 3 km above sea level.

Otherwise, the Main Caucasian Range from the south side is passable, with the exception of two passes: Cross and Mamison. The roads across the ridge are almost accessible all year round. In some places they resemble pack trails.

The Cross Pass is of great importance in this area, as the Georgian military road passes through it.

About glaciers

Few people suspect, but the size, number and area of ​​​​the glaciers of the Caucasus Range, the photo of which is given in the article, are practically not inferior to the glaciers of the Alpine Mountains. Their largest number is concentrated in the region of the Elbrus and Terek ridges.

There are about 183 glaciers of the first order in the basins of the Kuban, Rioni, Terek and Inguri rivers. And there are several times more glaciers of the 2nd category - about 680. Soviet years large studies were carried out in the Caucasus, as a result of which geologists compiled the Catalog of Glaciers of the USSR. Soviet scientists in the early 80s counted 2050 glaciers. Their total area was almost 1500 km2.

As for the glacial dimensions of the Caucasus Range, there is no unequivocal answer. Their area is varied. For example, the Bezengi glacier is almost as large as the Alechsky glacier, which is located in the Alps. The Caucasian masses of ice, unlike the Alpine ones, never descended low. The most famous are the Bezengi, Chatyntau, Tsey, Big Azau and Tsaneri glaciers. Bezengi is the largest glacier in the Caucasus Range. Its length is 17 km.

During the Ice Age, the ice masses of the range were larger and more numerous than they are today. In our time, they are in the stage of retreat, which has been going on for more than a dozen years.

Bezengi

This is a mountainous region located in Kabardino-Balkaria. It is considered the central ridge, as well as one of high parts Caucasian chain. It includes the Bezengi wall. It is a 42-kilometer array of mountains. This is high section ridge. The borders of the Bezengi Wall are considered from the west - the peak of Lyalver, and from the east - Mount Shkhara.

From the north, the Bezengi wall abruptly breaks up to 3 thousand meters in the direction of the Bezengi glacier. In Kabardino-Balkaria it is also called Ullu-Chiran. On the Georgian side, the relief is complex, there is even a glacial plateau. The most significant peaks of the region are the Bezengi Wall, Yesenin Peak, Shota Rustaveli Peak, Lyalver, Dzhangitau and others.

The main peak of Georgia

The highest point in Georgia is Shkhara Peak. Its height above sea level is 5193 meters, but some researchers claim that it is higher - 5203 m. The mountain peak is located about 90 km north of the city of Kutaisi. Shkhara is the third highest peak in the Caucasus and Russia.

The mountain is composed of schist and granite. Its slopes are covered with snow-white glaciers: on the north side - the Bezengi glacier, and on the south - Shkhara. This place is popular among climbers. The first ascent of this mountain was made in 1933. The hill is also notable for the fact that on the side of the southern slope at an altitude of 2000 meters there is a village that is included in the UNESCO list.

Tsey glacier

And now let's talk about the glacier, which is located in the North Caucasus. The Tsey glacier is one of the largest and lowest descending glaciers in the Caucasus. You can find it in North Ossetia. It feeds on snow from the top of Adai-Khokh. The height of the glacier is about 4500 meters. It descends to a height of 2200 m above sea level. Firn fields, consisting of grain snow, reach about 9 km. Below the glacier is narrow, and the higher it is located, the more it expands. It is constrained by rocks, so it is dotted with cracks, and there are also icefalls.

The Tsey glacier consists of large and small branches. There are four in total. There is also a river that flows out of a beautiful ice arch. Its channel passes through picturesque places rich in century-old pines. Nearby there is a camp site "Ossetia", climbing camps, hotels, a weather station and the Caucasian Mining and Metallurgical Institute. Two cable cars are laid to the glacier. Yuri Vizbor wrote poems about this beautiful place. The local peoples composed legends, songs and tales a lot about the glacier.

Mount Achishkho

This mountain range is located on the side of the western Caucasus. Refers to Krasnodar Territory. The height of the mountain reaches 2400 meters and is located 10 kilometers from Krasnaya Polyana. This ridge differs from all others in its rock composition. It consists of shale and volcanic rocks. The landscapes have ancient glacial landforms, karst lakes and even waterfalls. The mountains are surrounded humid climate, up to 3 meters of precipitation falls here annually. Considered the most big size in Russia. The snow cover is about 10 meters. As you may have guessed sunny days in a year in this mountainous corner is very small - no more than 70 days.

The slopes of Mount Achishkho on the north side are covered with fir forests. Mountain meadows are located on the peaks, broad-leaved and beech forests grow on the other sides. This place is popular among hikers. Here you can find dolmens - stone buildings of ancient peoples.

biosphere reserve

On the territory of the Western Caucasus there is a reserve, its total area reaches about 300 thousand hectares. In February 1979, the UNESCO organization decided to assign biosphere status to the reserve.

In 2008, he was named after H. G. Shaposhnikov, the founder Caucasian Reserve. But he became famous not only for this, but also for his perfect discoveries in the field of biology. At the beginning of the 20th century, the scientist noticed that the Caucasian bison was disappearing in this area, so in 1909 he wrote a letter to Russian Academy Sciences with a request to equip the reserve. But since the land belonged to the Kuban Cossacks, very long time the matter did not progress. The scientist made several attempts, and 10 years later, namely in 1919, things moved from dead center. In 1924, the bison reserve began to function.

Conclusion

We have traveled from the foot of the Black Sea Mountains to the Caspian peaks. Thus, the length of the Caucasus Range is 1150 km. Now you know that it is divided into Northern and Southern historical and cultural regions. The total length of the ridge is divided into 7 parts, each of which has almost the same length. Each mountain region is characterized in its own way.

Those who are planning to make a trip should definitely visit the Caucasus Mountains. You will remember these fabulous landscapes for a lifetime. Terrenkur, rock climbing, river rafting, skiing and many other outdoor activities offer tourists the Caucasus.

Unlike the Lesser Caucasus, which fills the entire southwestern part of the Caucasus region with its highlands and chains.

The entire system of the Caucasus Range occupies an area of ​​approximately 2600 square meters. m, and its northern slope occupies about 1450 sq. m, while the southern one is only about 1150 sq. m.

The main ridge at its western end approaches Anapa on the Black Sea coast, and at its eastern end ends with Mount Ilhi-Dag (1073 f.), NW of Baku.

The distance in a straight line between these points is about 1100 versts, but, due to meanders and bends, the Main Range extends, in the form of a continuous high watershed, for almost 1420 versts.

The width of the Caucasus Range in the western (slightly west of Elbrus) and eastern (Dagestan) parts is about 200 versts, in the central - about 90 versts; both extremities are strongly narrowed and represent (especially the western) an insignificant width.

The highest is the middle part of the ridge, between Elbrus and Kazbek (cf. height 11600 ft.), where its highest peaks are concentrated, of which Elbrus reaches 18470 ft. above ur. seas; east of Kazbek and west of Elbrus, the ridge drops, and more significantly in the second direction than in the first.

In general, in terms of height, the Caucasian Range significantly exceeds the Alps; it has no less than 15 peaks exceeding 12,000 ft., and more than 20 peaks above Mont Blanc, the highest peak in all of Europe. The advanced heights accompanying the Main Range, in most cases, do not have the character of continuous chains, but are short ridges or mountain groups connected with the watershed ridge by spurs and cut through in many places by deep gorges of rivers, which, starting in the Main Range and breaking through the advanced heights, descend to the foothills and out onto the plains.

Thus, almost along its entire length (to the west from the south, to the east from the north) a series of high basins adjoins the watershed ridge, in most cases of lacustrine origin, closed on the one hand by the heights of the watershed, as well as its spurs, and on the other by separate groups and short ridges of advanced hills, which in some places surpass the main chain in height.

On the north side of the watershed, transverse basins predominate, and on the south, except for its western extremity, longitudinal ones. It is also characteristic of the Caucasus Range that many of the primary peaks do not lie on the watershed ridge, but on the extremities of its short spurs heading to the N (this is the position of the peaks: Elbrus, Koshtan-tau, Adai-khokh, etc.).

The northern, more developed slope of the Caucasus Range, formed by many spurs, adjoining in general almost perpendicular to the Main Range and separated by deep transverse valleys, reaches a very significant development in the vicinity of Elbrus (Elbrus ledge). The most significant uplift is directed from this peak directly to the north, serves as a watershed between the waters of the Kuban and the Terek, and, descending further in ledges, spreads into the vast Stavropol Upland (see the Caucasian Territory).

The northern slope is even more developed in the eastern part of the Caucasus Range, where numerous, and very significant in height and length, its spurs form the vast mountainous country of Dagestan (Dagestan ledge). Gradually lowering to the north, the northern slope is formed by many advanced hills, which in places are in the form of ridges; these include the so-called Black Mountains, running north of the Main Range at a distance of 17-60 century. To the north, the Black Mountains form gentle and long slopes, in most areas covered with dense forests (hence the name), and to the south they fall in steep cliffs. The rivers flowing from the Main Range break through the Black Mountains along deep and narrow, very picturesque gorges; the height of this forward chain is, in general, insignificant, although in upstream Ardona and Uruha, some of their peaks reach more than 11 t. ft. high (Kion-hoh 11230 ft., Kargu-hoh 11164 ft.).

The southern slope is especially poorly developed in the western and eastern parts of the ridge, reaching a rather significant orographic development in the middle, where it is adjoined by parallel hills that form longitudinal valleys of the upper reaches of the Rion, Ingur and Tskhenis-tskhali, and long spurs extend to the south, separating the Alazani basins. , Yora and Kura.

This slope is distinguished by remarkable steepness and low development where it falls to the Alazani valley; Zagatala, located at an altitude of 1783 feet. at the southern the soles of the Caucasus Range, is separated in a straight line by only the 18th century. from its crest, reaching here more than 11,000 ft. heights above sea level. The Caucasian ridge is not distinguished by cross-country ability; only for app. and east. its extremities have convenient and low passes, quite accessible all year round for communication.

Throughout the rest of the length, with the exception of the Mamison and Krestovoi (see. Georgian Military Road), the paths through the ridge in most cases represent pack or even hiking paths, partly completely inaccessible for use in winter time of the year. From all the passes highest value has a Cross (7977 ft.), through which the most significant traffic is carried out along the Georgian Military Highway throughout the ridge.

seven parts

For a more convenient view, the Caucasus Range can be divided along the length from W to E into seven parts: 1) the Black Sea Caucasus (from the meridian of Anapa to the Oshten mountain group - about 250 in.), 2) the Kuban Caucasus (from Oshten to the source of the Kuban - 150 c.), 3) the Elbrus Caucasus (from the source of the Kuban to the top of Adai-khokh - 160 c.), 4) the Terek Caucasus (from Adai-khokh to the city of Barbalo - 120 c.), 5) the Dagestan Caucasus (from Barbalo to peaks of Sari-Dag - 140 c.), 6) the Samur Caucasus (from Sari-Dag to the city of Baba-Dag - c. 120 c.) and 7) the Caspian Caucasus (from Baba-Dag to the top of Ilkhi-Dag - about 160 in.).

Black Sea Caucasus

The Black Sea Caucasus along its entire length runs almost parallel to the Black Sea coast, and the distance of the watershed ridge from the sea does not exceed 40 century. (at Oshten); not reaching the snow line anywhere, the Black Sea Caucasus rises here and there to 6 t. ft. only in the southern part; between the passes are remarkable Novorossiysk - 1225 ft. and Goythsky - 1343 ft. (between Tuapse and Maykop), designed for wheeled traffic.

Cool south. the slope falling to the Black Sea is divided by short buttresses of the ridge into a series of transverse valleys and gorges, along which rivers flow into the sea.

The northern, much more developed slope is formed by spurs gradually descending towards the Kuban plane, between which there are lion valleys. tributaries of the Kuban (Psekups, Pshish) and Belaya (Pshekha) rivers.

Kuban Caucasus

The Kuban Caucasus begins with the Oshten mountain group (the top of Fisht - 9360 ft. above sea level), on the top of which eternal snow appears for the first time, differs, in comparison with the Black Sea, in greater height and width, in snow covering its most prominent peaks, a significant height and the difficulty of the passes, and, finally, the appearance of glaciers, which are first encountered in the upper reaches of the Laba; while the height watershed range gradually increases from NE to SW.

Of the peaks, except for Fishta, the following are remarkable: Shugus (10642) and Psysh (12427). Of the passes that rise very significantly in this part of the ridge and represent pack trails, Pseashkho is remarkable - 6870 feet. (from the Mzymta basin to the upper reaches of the Laba), Marukhsky - 11000 ft., Klukhorsky - 9075 ft. and Naharsky - 9617 ft. (the last two from the Kodor basin to the upper reaches of the Kuban).

The penultimate of the passes is the most convenient way of communication between Sukhum and Batalpashinsk. The southern slope of the Kuban Caucasus is more developed than in the previous part of the range; between its numerous spurs, descending to the Black Sea, lies a series of deep basins containing small river basins, the upper part of which is sometimes located almost parallel to the watershed ridge; such are the basins of Mzymta, Bzyb and Kodor. The northern slope is highly developed and has up to 100 e. in length; between its huge buttresses, of which the largest departs to the northwest from the top of Psysh, there are deep, wild and picturesque, forested transverse valleys and gorges of the upper reaches of the Kuban system (pp. Belaya, Laba, Urup, Zelenchuk, Teberda and Kuban); of these valleys, the valley of the upper Laba - Zagdan is the most famous (see).

Elbrus Caucasus

The Elbrus Caucasus, stretching from the origins of the Kuban to the top of the Adai-Khokh or to the upper reaches of the river. Ardona, represents the highest part of the Caucasus Range, rich in snow and glaciers. Average Height Elbrus Caucasus reaches 11-12 t. ft.; passes that are difficult to access go down a little lower, but many times. its high peaks, bearing masses of snow and ice, rise above 16 t. ft.

From the Main Range to the NE, short and powerful spurs extend, in which the highest peaks of the Caucasus are located; in the most significant of these spurs, in the 20th century. north of the watershed ridge, rises Elbrus, or Mingi-tau (18470 ft.), the highest peak in the system of the Caucasus Range and within the Caucasus region. To the south of the Main Range, at a short distance, almost along the entire length of the Elbrus Caucasus, runs parallel to the Main Range, the Svaneti Range (top. Shoda 11128 ft.), Which, being approximately 3000 ft. on average, lower than the Main one, yet it goes far beyond the limits of eternal snow.

Between the Svaneti and watershed ridges there are high, parallel to the axis of uplift of the latter, the valleys of the Ingur and Tskhenis-tskhali, and the same valley of the upper reaches of the Rion adjoins the eastern tip of the Elbrus Caucasus from the south; these valleys, as well as the Ingura valley from the Kodor valley, are separated by high spurs of the Main Range. Between the peaks of the Elbrus Caucasus, in addition to Elbrus, there are remarkable: Dykh-tau (17054 ft.), Koshtan-tau (16881 ft.), Shkhara (17049 ft.), Dzhangi-tau (16564 ft.), Tetnuld (15914 ft.) , Ushba (15445 ft.), Adish (16291 ft.), Adai-hokh (15244 ft.), etc.

Through passes rising up to 12 tons. heights, partly over snow and glaciers, lead dangerous footpaths, along which the inhabitants of the upper reaches of the Rion, Ingur and Tskhenis-tskhali communicate with the northern slope. This latter, significantly developed in the western part, where the spurs of the Elbrus buttress do not reach the line of the Vladikavkaz railway, is strongly shortened to the SE, as it approaches the top of Adai-hokh, where it is three times shorter than in the west. All spurs and buttresses of the northern slope are directed to the NE and between us, in deep gorges and valleys, the rivers of the Terek system (Baksan, Chegem, Cherek, Urukh) flow in the same direction, originating in the vast glaciers of the Caucasus Range.

Terek Caucasus

The Terek Caucasus, embracing part of the ridge from Adai-khokh to Mount Barbalo (10,807 ft.), is characterized by many features. The entire Caucasian ridge narrows strongly here, its slopes, and especially the northern one, become short and, in addition, the watershed ridge, deviating here in the upper reaches of the Terek and Ardon to the south, is significantly inferior in height to the front ridge located somewhat north of it, with its peaks almost reaching the heights of the Elbrus Caucasus and, in essence, being, as it were, a direct continuation of the latter. The main peaks of the watershed ridge, except for Barbalo: Zilga-hokh (12645 ft.), Zikari (12563 ft.), Choukhi (12107 ft.), while in the advanced: Tepli (14510 ft.), Dzhimarai-hokh (15673 ft. .), Tsmiakom-khokh (13567 ft.) and, finally, Kazbek (16546 ft.). Between the passes in this part of the Caucasus Range, which drops significantly towards B, are remarkable: Mamisonsky (9390 ft.), Through which the Ossetian Military Road passes, connecting Kutaisi with Vladikavkaz; Roki (9870 ft.) - Leading from the Ardon basin to the Great Liakhvi basin, and in particular the Cross (7977 ft.), through which the Georgian Military Highway is laid.

The amount of glaciers and snow in the Terek Caucasus, although less than in Elbrus, is still very significant. Four high, separated from one another by high spurs, transverse basins adjoin the watershed ridge in the Terek Caucasus: Ardonskaya, Terskaya, Assinskaya and Argunskaya, in which, partly from glaciers, the rivers of the Terek system originate: From the rivers that arise in them, Ardon and Terek break through to the N through the front ridge along grandiose gorges, of which the Darial gorge is especially remarkable, through which the Terek flows. To the east of the Georgian Military Highway, the northern slope of the Caucasus Range again becomes more extensive, reaching a very significant development on the Barbalo meridian. The southern slope of the Terek Caucasus is more developed than in other parts of the Caucasus Range; it is formed by many long low spurs and buttresses gradually descending to the south, some of which go to join the Lesser Caucasus (the Suram Range from the top of Zikari), while others go far to the southeast, separating the valleys of Iora and Alazani and merging with the steppes of the east. Transcaucasia to the SE from Tiflis. From the southern slope of the Terek Caucasus flow: Iori, Bolshaya Liakhvi, Aragvi and other left tributaries of the Kura, forming deep transverse valleys in their upper reaches.

Dagestan Caucasus

Dagestan Caucasus, stretching from the city of Barbalo to the top. Sari-Dag (12008 f.), is characterized by an unusually complexly developed northern slope, which is composed of many high and long spurs extending from the Main Range to the NE and forming a mountainous country - Dagestan, and a remarkably short, steep and undeveloped southern slope, which, however, retains , the same character and further to the SE in the Samur and Caspian Caucasus. The height of the watershed ridge of the Caucasian ridge in the Dagestan Caucasus is lower than in the Terek, and it represents few peaks protruding above the ridge; glaciers and eternal snows are present on it only in a small amount. Powerful sowing is much higher and more abundant with glaciers and snow. spurs and advanced chains of the K. ridge that fill Dagestan. The most app. the spur is the Sulako-Tersky (Perikitelsky) ridge, which serves as a watershed between the Terek and Sulak, Bogossky, between the Andi and Avar Koisu and Naukat, separating the last river from the Kara-Koisu.

Narrow and deep transverse valleys closed by the indicated spurs adjoin the watershed ridge of the Caucasus Range in the N: Tushinskaya, Didoyskaya and Ankratlskaya. In the first two, the Andean Koisu originates, and in the last, the Avar, breaking through the advanced heights of the Caucasus Range and carrying their waters to the N - to Sulak. The same character has pp. Kazikumukhskoye and Kara-Koysu, flowing down from the north. the slope of the spur separating the basins of the Samur and Sulak and heading to the E from the top. Sari-dag. A collection of high ridges, with innumerable spurs and buttresses, forming in some places vast plateaus, mostly rocky and devoid of forests, the predominance of broken lines and grayish-yellow colors in the landscape, deep gorges with fast-moving koisu (river), and poor communication lines - are features of Dagestan. More remarkable peaks, except for Barbado and Sari-dag: Ninikos-tsikhe (10251 ft.), Antsal (11742 ft.), Shavi-klde (11314 ft.) and others in the watershed ridge, Tebulos-mta (14781 ft.) , Donos-mta (13736 ft.), Big Kachu (14 0 27 ft.) in Sulako-Tersky and Balakuri (12323 ft.) in the Bogossky ridge. Between the passes, the most common are: Kodorsky (9300 ft.) and Satskhenissky, leading from Kakhetia to Dagestan. The southern short slope of the Caucasian Range falls steeply to the Alazani valley.

Samur Caucasus

The Samur Caucasus, stretching from Sari-Dag to Baba-Dag (11,934 ft.), is similar to Dagestan in the development of its slopes, but the height of the watershed ridge in it is greater than in the latter, and the amount of snow on the ridge again increases. Of the spurs, the one that goes from Sari-Dag to B and serves as a watershed between Sulak and Samur is remarkable, and from the advanced heights of Shah-Dag (13951 ft.), On which there are the last, towards E, eternal snows and glaciers of the Caucasus Range . Of the peaks of the watershed ridge, the following are remarkable: Gudur-dag (11075 ft.), Salavat-dag (11943 ft.), Thfan-dag (13764 ft.) and Bazar-duz, or Kichen-dag (14722 ft.). Passes: Gudursky (10118 ft.), Leading from Zakatal to the upper reaches of the Samur, and Salavatsky (9283 ft.), Through which the Military Akhta road runs. Sev. the slope of the Samur Caucasus, which by nature has much in common with Dagestan, of which it forms a part, belongs to the Samur basin, the upper part of which forms a vast longitudinal valley adjacent to the N to the watershed ridge. The southern slope falls to the Alazani valley and is partly irrigated by small steppe rivers flowing through the Nukhinsky district of the Elisavetpol province.

Caspian Caucasus

The Caspian Caucasus - the last link of the Caucasus Range - embraces it east. extremity from Baba-dag to Ilkhi-dag. Its highest points do not exceed 9000 feet. and completely devoid of snow cover. The Alty-Agach pass, on the road from Shamakhi to Quba, has no more than 4354 feet. height. The southern slope of the Caspian Caucasus is somewhat more developed than in the Samur and Dagestan, but even here it is inferior in this respect to the north; however, barely noticeable elevations are visible even at 40 ° N. sh., much south of Baku.

Snow

The height of the snow line on the Caucasus Range is not the same everywhere; depending on the climatic conditions, different for app. and eastern parts, as well as on the sowing. and southern slope of this mountain system, the position of the border of snows n. ur. m. varies greatly. The first snowy peak to the west is Oshten (Fishta), on which the line of perpetual snow is not higher than 9000 feet, and to the south. on a slope it drops even to 8900 ft.; further to B, under the influence of a decrease in precipitation and air humidity, the snow line gradually rises; on Elbrus, it is at an altitude of about 10,700 feet. (west and east slope) - 11700 ft. (northern slope). To the east of the meridian of Kazbek, due to a significant rise in the snow line and a decrease in the height of the ridge, only a few mountain peaks remain covered with eternal snow. Its limit at Shahdag is on average 12,200 feet. above sea level (northern slope 11900 ft., southern slope - 12500 ft.). Thus, the difference in snow height on the west. and east. extremities of the snowy region of the Caucasus Range reaches approximately 3200 ft. (on the south slope up to 3600 ft.). Snow on the north slope of the Caucasus Range, with a few exceptions, rise 1000-1500 ft. higher than to the south, which can be explained by the fact that sowing. the slope faces the dry open steppe spaces of Ciscaucasia. It is believed that out of the entire length of the watershed ridge, no more than 300 century BC are covered with eternal snow. In addition to the watershed ridge, there are significant masses of snow on the frontal ridges and ridges closest to it and the spurs extending from it (the front ridge in the Terek Caucasus, the Svanetsky ridge, the Sulako-Tersky, Bogossky, etc.).

Glaciers

The study of the glaciers of the Caucasus Range, which has moved far beyond Lately, far from finished; for many of them there is only scarce information, and the number of all glaciers, their distribution, area and other data are almost unknown. Nevertheless, it turned out that the previous opinion about the extremely insignificant glaciation of the Caucasus is incorrect and that in terms of the number of glaciers, their area and size, the K. ridge is almost as good as the Alps. Largest number significant glaciers are located in the Elbrus and Terek parts of the ridge, and the number of glaciers of the 1st category in the basins of the Kuban, Terek, Liakhva, Rion and Ingur is determined, according to some data, at 183, and the 2nd category - at 679. The number of all glaciers in the Caucasus system, according to most likely, at least 900-1000. The size of the Caucasian glaciers is very diverse and some of them (Bizingi) are not inferior in size to the Alech glacier (Alps). The Caucasian glaciers nowhere descend as low as, for example, the Alpine glaciers, and in this respect they represent a great variety; so the Karagom glacier releases with its lower end up to 5702 ft., and the Shah-Daga glacier up to 10374 ft. The most famous glaciers of the Caucasus Range are:

Name of the glacier The mountain that descends Height of the lower end of the glacier, in m Glacier length, in km Total Glacier length, km Without firn
Bizingi (bass. Cherek) Shkhara, Dykh-tau 1993 19.6km 16.1km
Dykh-su Shkhara, Dykh-tau 2027m 14.3km 10.1km
Karagom (bass Uruha) Adai-hoh 1764m 15.5km 9.6km
Zanner (bass. Ingur) Tetnuld 2084m 13.1km 10.0km
Devdoraksky (bass Terek) Kazbek 2296m 5.7km 3.4km

IN ice Age the glaciers of the Caucasus Range were incomparably more numerous and extensive than they are today; from the numerous traces of their existence, found far from modern glaciers, it can be concluded that the ancient glaciers extended in length 50, 60 and even up to a hundred and more miles, descending into valleys up to 800-900 feet. above sea level. Currently, most of the glaciers of the Caucasus Range are in a period of retreat, which has been lasting for several decades.

Geology

Geologically, the Caucasus Range (according to Suess) represents two different parts: western and eastern; in the first of them, the crystalline base, on which the Jurassic, Cretaceous and Paleozoic deposits were located, is a fold overturned to the south, while in the second part the crystalline base has sunk and is hidden under the Kura lowland. On the southern slope east. parts of the Caucasus Range, a number of parallel discharges are observed, while in the sowing. Mesozoic and Miocene strata show folding, decreasing towards the north.

Crystalline schists and granites, of which the crest of the ridge to the west is composed, serve as the basis for the volcanic massifs of Elbrus and Kazbek, around which basalts, trachytes, and other igneous rocks are developed over a vast extent.

The Black Sea Caucasus is composed mainly of rocks of the Cretaceous and part of the Jurassic systems;

in the Kuban Caucasus, its ridge already consists of crystalline rocks: gneisses, granites, crystalline schists, etc., Jurassic deposits are developed on the northern slope, and Paleozoic formations, in addition to the latter and diorites and diabases that break through in places, are developed on the southern slope.

The emergence of mountains on the site of geosynclines is the basic law of mountain building, which is confirmed by the study of any mountainous country.

To be convinced of this, we will make another trip to the Caucasus: we will cross the Main Caucasian Range.

The roads - Military Georgian, Military Ossetian and Military Sukhumi - were laid through the Main Caucasian Range. They can be ridden on horseback or on foot. For a geologist, the pedestrian method of transportation is, of course, the most suitable: he can stop where he wants and inspect everything that interests him along the way.

You can go hiking along the Georgian Military Highway from the city of Ordzhonikidze to Tbilisi.

Ordzhonikidze offers a beautiful view of the Caucasus Range, especially in the morning, when the mountains are not yet covered by clouds, which usually envelop the peaks by noon. Behind the green ridges of the front ridges, huge masses covered with eternal snows rise high to the blue sky.

Among the jagged ridges with bizarre outlines, the snow-white domes of the two giants of the Caucasus, the extinct volcanoes of Elbrus and Kazbek, shine above all. If the mountains of the old Ural give the impression of ancient ruins, fragments of their former grandeur, then when you see the sparkling peaks of the Caucasus, you feel the full power of those forces that raised these mighty ridges far beyond the clouds. It seems that they are eternal and unshakable.

Huge bare walls and cliffs continuously stretch along the banks of the river valley. Terek, deeply cut into the foothills and the northern slope of the Main Caucasian Range. As in the Urals, as you move towards the watershed, you will see more and more ancient layers of sedimentary rocks in the cliffs, crumpled into mighty folds. However, the age of all these breeds is much younger than in the Urals. These are deposits of the tertiary system, represented by sandstones, clays and various clastic rocks. They stretch in a wide strip along the margin of the northern slope of the Caucasus, as can be seen on the geological map (see below). In the Tertiary sediments of the northern slope of the Caucasus, near the Grozny, Maikop and in some other places there are oil deposits.

Tertiary deposits are replaced by marine rocks that formed earlier, in the Mesozoic era (in the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods). Among the latter, the most ancient are clay shales deposited at the beginning jurassic. They protrude for a long distance along the Georgian Military Highway to the Darial Gorge and are crumpled into numerous steep folds. Near the village of Lapc, these layers have been converted into dense roofing or slate schists, which are mined here for construction purposes. Among the shales there are covers of ancient lavas and layers of volcanic tuffs, indicating that in the Jurassic period, volcanic eruptions occurred in the sea at the site of the Caucasus.

The grandiose and gloomy Darial Gorge was dug by the Terek in an array of ancient granites. Sheer granite walls rise here to a height of 1400 m. Above them lie Jurassic quartzites and shales that cover them, forming here a huge anticline fold.

In its core, the most ancient granites of the Caucasus Range protrude, formed long before the Jurassic period.

After crossing the ancient granites of the Darial Gorge, we again enter the area of ​​Jurassic deposits and approach the interesting young volcanic area of ​​Mount Kazbek. This mighty volcano is, as it were, planted on the Caucasian ridge. It is not currently active, but its last eruptions occurred recently, at the end ice age. Lava flows descending from Kazbek reach the Terek valley and the Georgian Military Highway. The first stream that you will meet descended into the Terek valley, blocked its channel and forced the river to deviate to the east and dig a new channel for itself. The dark gray and red lavas of another stream flowing down from Kazbek are being developed for the needs of chemical plants. Cast acid-resistant stones are made from them.

From the village of Kazbek, a beautiful view of the majestic extinct volcano Kazbek opens up. From here you can climb the glaciers and snowy peak Kazbek and admire the blooming alpine meadows along the way.

Kazbek is not the only volcano in this part of the Caucasus. Having passed it, the Georgian Military Road passes at the foot of the Kabardzhin volcano, the multiple eruptions of which are evidenced by lava flows of various compositions, and even further into the Terek valley a powerful lava flow of the Khurisor volcano descends.

After the village of Kobi, the road leaves the Terek valley and rises to the Cross Pass along a gorge dug in light Jurassic limestones and marls. On the slopes of the valley one can see thick strata of calcareous tuff deposited by numerous carbonic calcareous springs. The carbonic acid seems to come from that volcanic chamber from which the lava has recently erupted.

From the Cross Pass to the villages of Mleti and Pasanaur, the road continues to cross an area consisting of Jurassic sediments, crumpled into folds, overturned to the south. Thus, the entire central part of the Main Caucasian Range and the region of the pass consist of Jurassic rocks. This can be clearly seen on the geological map.

Let's continue our journey.

If you go from Gudauri down the valley of the White Aragvi, you can see a powerful flow of basalt lava descending to the north. Along a steep, steep cliff of the stream on the left bank of the river, the road descends for 200 m into the Aragvi gorge. This is the famous Mljetsky descent, the loops of which are partly carved into the rocks, partly laid on high retaining walls. Going down the road, you can see beautiful outcrops of basalt lavas on the slopes. They are witnesses of recent volcanism in the central part of the Main Caucasian Range, which has now ceased. With further inevitable destruction of the ridge, the volcanic cones and their lava flows will be destroyed and no trace of them will be preserved, just as there are no traces of Permian volcanoes, which probably existed in the Urals during the period of its rise.

At 2.5 km from the village of Pasanaur, where the White Aragvi turns sharply to the south, the road, laid along its valley for 18 km, crosses the Cretaceous deposits - dark shales interbedded with calcareous sandstones.

Behind the band of Cretaceous deposits, tertiary deposits appear, reaching considerable thickness here. The structure of this area is very complex. Tertiary deposits stretch along the entire southern slope of the Main Caucasian Range and, like the deposits of the northern slope, consist of thick strata of clastic rocks. Like the northern slope Tertiary sediments we saw earlier, they contain oil. Its especially rich deposits are located in the southeastern end Caucasus mountains on the Absheron peninsula, near the city of Baku.

Geological map of the USSR (click to enlarge)

Let us sum up some results of the observations made during the campaign along the Georgian Military Highway.

As we walked from the city of Ordzhonikidze to the Darial Gorge, we encountered more and more ancient rocks, ranging from deposits of the late Tertiary period to the ancient Jurassic layers and protruding ancient granites. On the way from the Darial Gorge and the Cross Pass, a reverse sequence of deposits was observed: the Old Jurassic layers were replaced by younger Jurassic deposits, then Cretaceous and finally Tertiary rocks. Consequently, the Main Caucasian Range is a huge anticline, in the core of which the most ancient rocks protrude, and on the wings - more and more young ones. The anticline structure of the Caucasus is very clearly visible on the geological map.

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The mountains of the Caucasus, born in the collision of the Eurasian and Arabian plates, are like a symbol of the mentality of the peoples living next to them. Proud and tall, they stand as a miraculous wall between Asiatic and European parts our continent on dry land. Mankind has not decided whether to attribute them to Europe or Asia.

The height of the Caucasus Mountains: 5642 m (Great Caucasus) and 3724 m (Little Caucasus).

The length of the Greater Caucasus: 1100 km. small - 600 km.

See the geographic location of the Caucasus Mountains or where they are located and how they are located on the map. To enlarge the map of the Caucasus Mountains, just click on it.

Not crossed by rivers, the Caucasian ranges are called the watershed line. mountain system Caucasus, the same age as the Alps, with a history of thirty million years, is firmly inscribed in the memory of mankind through biblical lines and Greek myths. It was on one of the mountains of the system that a dove released from Noah's ark found a branch, on top of Ararat. The legendary Prometheus, who gave fire to people, was chained to one of the Caucasian rocks.

The Caucasus is divided into two parts, which are called the Greater and Lesser Caucasus. The first stretches from Taman almost to Baku and consists of Western, Central and Eastern Caucasus. One and a half thousand square kilometers of ice, the highest point of Eurasia - Elbrus (the peak of the Caucasus Mountains), an iron mountain, and six mountain peaks, five thousand kilometers high - that's what the Greater Caucasus is.

The Lesser Caucasus is a mountain range near the Black Sea, with peaks up to four kilometers high.

The Caucasus Mountains are located between the Caspian and Black Sea coasts and simultaneously in several countries. These are Russia, South Ossetia, Abkhazia, Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan and Turkey.

The climate of the Caucasus is diverse: from typically maritime in Abkhazia, it changes to sharply continental in Armenia.

The Caucasus is inhabited by unique animals - chamois, mountain goats, wild boars, in especially remote and hard-to-reach places you can meet a leopard or a bear.

Alpine meadow grasses, coniferous forests climbing up from the foothills, turbulent rivers, lakes, waterfalls, springs with mineral water, the cleanest air.

It is thanks to such a successful combination of values ​​for human health that the region has a huge number of sanatoriums and resorts.

Rock climbers are attracted by the royal Elbrus and its neighbors - Shkhara, Kazbek, Dzhangitau, Dykhtau and Koshnantau. Among the snows of the Caucasus there is a place for skiers and snowboarders, lovers of hiking and thrills, adherents of rafting, as well as all those who value their health. Terrenkur, Norwegian walking, rock climbing, river rafting, skiing and many other outdoor activities are offered by the Caucasus.

Once having visited the mountains, sung by the "genius of Lermontov", you will remember them for a lifetime.

Video: wild nature Russia 4 of 6 Caucasus mountains.

Video: Hiking in the Caucasus mountains.