Man and woman 

How to remove a chuck from a Soviet drill. Repairing a drill, screwdriver, how to replace a drill chuck, how to change a chuck on a Soviet drill

What repair would be complete without a good drill and a set of drill bits! However, even the most reliable tool can jam during operation. Don't rush to panic! We will teach you how to change the drill bit in a drill and correctly diagnose other breakdowns.

Drill design - what do you need to know about the tool?

Every tool owner has had a jamming of a drill in a drill or screwdriver chuck at least once. To understand why this can happen, you need to understand how the drill works. This tool converts electrical energy into mechanical energy, which is possible thanks to an electric motor that spins the shaft. Through the gearbox and gears, rotation is transmitted to the fastener, in which the drill is fixed.

In addition to jamming, a loosely fixed drill can jump out of the fastener, and this is already fraught with quite serious injuries for the person working with the tool and those around him, given the speed of rotation of modern devices. Therefore, never fasten the drill in a hurry; always disconnect the drill from the current to avoid accidental starting of the drill.

Fastening device – non-combat cartridge

The chuck is the fastener in which the drill is fixed. The fastener itself is screwed onto the tool spindle. Most often, drills are equipped with a jaw chuck. This design is a hollow cylinder with metal “fingers” inside. When you turn the adjusting ring, which is located outside the assembly, the “fingers” converge or diverge along the inner cone-shaped surface. In such a “fist” you can clamp both a drill with a cylindrical shank and a hexagonal one.

Convenience and ease of use have made the cam mechanism popular. However, it is not without its drawbacks. One of them is the difficulty of working with small drills. A short product may simply fall inside. You can still secure it by placing the drill in a horizontal position, but you can’t put too much pressure on it while working. If another drill was inserted into the drill, you can remove it by turning the adjusting ring in the appropriate direction. It is not always possible to do this manually; for this purpose there is a special key that acts like a lever, increasing the force. By the way, it is also not recommended to tighten the drill without a key - the larger the diameter of the drill, the more reliable the fastening should be.

When purchasing fasteners, make sure that they are rubberized - this way you will be less likely to injure your hands when securing the tool.

The quick-release fastener, the second most popular, can be operated without a key. Simply insert the drill and turn the lever; this can often be done with one hand. The drill fixation that this type of chuck provides is quite sufficient for most jobs, however, compared to the classic fastening option, it is inferior in reliability and is more expensive. The main advantage of a quick-release fastener is the speed of drill replacement and the safety of the process, since such a chuck is devoid of teeth that can injure your hands. The absence of a specialized key is also a significant advantage! Experienced builders know how easily it gets lost, so very often you can see a key taped to a wire with tape or tape.

True, this does not add convenience, but there is at least some confidence that you won’t have to look for the key throughout the construction site. How to change the drill bit in a screwdriver? The scheme is absolutely identical - the chucks of most drills are similar to the fasteners on screwdrivers. Of course, the latter tool cannot be a full-fledged replacement for a high-quality drill, if only because the fasteners are not provided for drills with a large diameter, and the speed of a screwdriver is usually lower.

How to change a drill bit in a drill - we can do it ourselves!

It is not always possible to remove the drill from the chuck in the usual way– as a result of heavy load or improper fixation, it may jam the cartridge. How to get a drill out of a drill without damaging the fastener and the tool itself? First of all, try to cool the cartridge thoroughly. Sometimes this is enough for the cams to release the drill a little and you can pull it out.

The most proven method for removing a stuck tool is to tap the cams.. To do this, the free end of the drill is fixed in a vice, a wooden strip is applied to the chuck, through which tapping is carried out. This vibration can cause the chuck to loosen its grip and release the tool. This method will be useful for both owners of classic fasteners and owners of quick-release fasteners. Sometimes removal becomes possible after lubricating the drill with machine oil or the popular WD-40 lubricant.

The latter method is better, because thanks to the spray, the substance will quickly reach the desired points of contact between the drill and the chuck. In any case, after lubricating you will need to wait a little for the substance to penetrate deeper. Sometimes, in particularly difficult cases, the problem is solved only after dipping the entire cartridge into a machine or vegetable oil. If neither one nor the other is at hand, you can make a “bath” for your drill from gasoline. You need to keep the cartridge in the liquid for at least an hour. By combining methods, you will be able to remove a jammed drill even faster.

How to replace the chuck - updating the drill

Most often, the cartridge is the first to become unusable in a drill. Dismantling it at home is not easy, but it is possible! The fastener is screwed onto the spindle itself, but in addition it is also secured with a bolt with a left-hand thread. In order to get it, you need to completely open the cartridge - it is inside. The whole difficulty of unscrewing it lies in the fact that many do not know about the left-hand thread, and when trying to unscrew it, they twist it even more, tear off the cap and eventually take it to the service center.

By unscrewing the bolt, you can also unscrew the cartridge itself, although this is not so easy to do. Some models have recesses at the base of the thread for a wrench - in this case, you can fix the spindle and unscrew the fasteners using a lot of force. The real difficulty comes when there are no wrench cuts. You will have to remove the housing cover to secure the spindle inside the drill. Difficult, but doable.

Removing a cartridge is one thing. Finding a new one is a completely different matter. In addition to the methods for clamping the drill, which are described above, different chucks also have different threads! The surest way not to confuse anything is to take an old cartridge with you and demonstrate it to the seller, or choose the right one based on the layout. When you have completed this task, all that remains for you is to screw the chuck onto the spindle and screw in the bolt, which in our case is screwed counterclockwise.

The drill chuck can be represented by several types, which differ markedly in design and design features. It is quite possible to quickly replace such a part of an electric drill with your own hands, but you need to know the basic rules for performing such work.

Drill chuck: device and types

A significant part of drill models are equipped with so-called cam devices. This option is a hollow cylindrical body, on the surface of which there is a movable part in the form of a ring or control sleeve. One cylinder base is attached to the drill shaft. The second base is used to fix the attachments. The process of rotation of the adjusting ring causes the movement of cams made of metal. The approaching and moving away of such cams depends on the direction of the annular rotation.

To secure it to the shaft, the housing is equipped with a special convenient threaded hole or has a special conical surface. There are also types of cartridges that are best suited for equipping specially designed rotary hammer models. It is quite possible to remove and change it yourself. Cam-type drill chucks allow you to secure the attachment and shank within standard limits of 0.8-10 mm and 1.5-13 mm.

In order to ensure maximum security during fastening, it is very important to tighten the cartridge with significant force. Cam chucks can be:

  • “regular”, represented by “key” or “gear” options;
  • “quick-clamping” or bzp cartridge.

To tighten or loosen the adjustment ring on a “regular” device, you will need to use a special wrench.

Characteristics of the drill keyless chuck

Tightening and loosening will require the use of a special metal sleeve that is knurled or grooved. Quite often, a plastic sleeve with ribs is used for this purpose.

The main difference of this element is the absence of a clamping key and the use of an outer shell that allows clamping of the drill lips. Most often, the use of BZP is accompanied by the following problems and difficulties:

  • insufficient quality of drill clamping;
  • lack of sufficient resistance to dust;
  • failure of the clamping mechanism.

Drill chucks: varieties (video)

If the mini drill or screwdriver model is equipped with a special type of lock, then it is necessary to use a single-socket clamping element. On tools without a blocker, a two-clutch element or a mini-chuck is used. As a rule, the body of such a device is made of plastic, and a steel alloy is used to make the mechanism and cams.

Any option self-execution repair work requires knowledge of the device and main components:

  • cone-shaped gripping lips;
  • inner part with lips;
  • external clamping part.

If necessary, each individual element of such a device can be replaced, for which it is necessary to disassemble the device correctly.

How to remove and disassemble an electric drill chuck

Even small, minor repairs will require proper disassembly of the structure. Today, there are only two mounting mechanisms on the working shaft, so the dismantling process may vary.

With the threaded fastening method, the structure must be disassembled in the following order:

  • deepen the cams inside the body and spread them as far apart as possible;
  • Unscrew the fixing screw located in the central bottom part of the device. Fasteners with left-hand threads must be turned clockwise;
  • Using an open-end wrench placed on the shaft, the device is unscrewed.

If there are no flats, the housing is disassembled, as well as the rotor shaft is subsequently fixed in a vice. It is advisable to unscrew the element using a gas wrench.

The most popular and frequently used in modern instruments is the cone connection. In addition to the exceptional strength of the cone connection, this option, with the right approach, can be quite easily disconnected on its own. To this end the body is first tapped in a circle, after which the element is knocked off the shaft using a sharp and accurate blow to the rear of the shaft.

After the cartridge is removed, it is necessary to correctly determine the type of malfunction. You can carry out repairs yourself if there is no significant damage to parts or jamming. caused by metal shavings trapped inside adjacent parts. As a rule, restoring functionality in the event of such a breakdown can be achieved by washing the elements in oil or kerosene using a soft, medium-sized brush. After this cleaning method, assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

Most often, owners of actively used tools are faced with a number of malfunctions caused by wear and damage to threaded or toothed parts. Minor local damage of this type can be easily eliminated by grinding. For this purpose, it is recommended to use a needle file or a standard sanding cloth. In the most complex cases of breakdowns, it is most often necessary complete replacement failed cartridge.

How to remove a chuck from a drill (video)

For dismantling and disassembling the chuck of an electric drill you need to prepare a set of tools presented:

  • vice;
  • pliers;
  • screwdriver;
  • hammer;
  • small mallet;
  • chisel;
  • needle file and sandpaper;
  • a brush with soft bristles and an oiler;
  • a set of gas keys;
  • adjustable wrench;
  • awl;
  • file;
  • caliper.

The basic version of the tool set may vary slightly depending on the type of connection and the complexity of the dismantling work performed. Excessive force should not be used since in this case not only the external, but also the internal working part of the device can be irreparably damaged.

Replacing a drill chuck with your own hands

There are several most common problems that can be observed during the operation of the tool, and will require cartridge replacement:

  • quite often a fixed element falls. This problem occurs not only on old tools, but also on completely new models, which are characterized by a conical fastening of the cam part. As a rule, the fall of a part accompanies the process of drilling deep holes. In this case, when lifting the drill and freeing it from accumulated chips, the cartridge falls off the cone. This problem can be solved by increasing the tension of the cone joint. For this purpose, you need to heat the cartridge in oil to a temperature of 110 o C, and then place it on the fixing part of the cold tool;

  • If, when performing work that is accompanied by the release of a significant amount of dust, chips or dirt, the clamping lips jam, then you need to properly disassemble the chuck, and then carefully, but as thoroughly as possible, clean and rinse all moving, working elements. Before assembling the part, it is very important to lubricate the internal parts with a brush and lithol. A good result is obtained by using a homemade protective casing that prevents clogging of the working parts;
  • If chuck runout is observed during drilling, the cause may be significant wear on the seat cone. An equally common cause of this phenomenon can be uneven wear of the cams, which must be replaced. If necessary, the broken cartridge is completely replaced.

Reassembling the disassembled part is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly, observing the rules for fastening to the tool.

How to change the chuck in a drill with your own hands (video)

The chuck is one of the main components of the electric drill mechanism, so the performance of the tool and the quality of the work performed will depend on its condition. It is quite possible to replace such a device yourself even without the skills and special knowledge, but in this case you need to correctly determine the cause of the breakdown and follow the standard instructions for repair work.

Quick-release and keyed


Any craftsman who has on his farm may encounter a situation where the drill chuck begins to hit (the center is lost) and the drill moves from side to side, as a result of which normal operation it won't work. Or the chuck's jaws are simply worn out, which can happen over time.
In this case, the cartridge should be replaced with a new one. How to choose it correctly?

There are several types of drill chucks. There are threaded ones, some are on a cone, which are simply pushed on and not screwed on. Let's consider them in more detail so as not to make a mistake when choosing.

Threaded chuck.

On thread


It is put on the drill by screwing it onto a threaded pin, which is located on the drill.
There are two main varieties threaded chuck. They differ in thread types.
They are marked (1.5-13 M12*1.25) and (1.5-13 1/2 - 20 UNF)


The numbers 1.5-13 indicate the maximum and minimum diameter of the drill shank that can be clamped into the chuck. The minimum is 1.5mm, the maximum is 13mm, 13.5 is also included, I checked it personally. On some chucks the minimum clamping diameter is 2mm.
M12 – means that the hole at the bottom is 12mm.
1.25 or 1/2 - 20 UNF is different types threads, the first is metric, the second is inch.

Choose correctly, the cartridges are not interchangeable, if there is a marking on the cartridge M12*1.25, then take that one. If M12*1/2 – 20 UNF – then only this one. If the inscription is erased, you will have to remove the cartridge from the drill and take it with you to the store.

How to remove it?
To do this, twist the cartridge counterclockwise. Sometimes the cartridge is additionally secured with a screw, which is located in the center,


this screw has a left-hand thread, i.e. unscrews clockwise, and not as usual - counterclockwise. First, unscrew the chuck (spread the jaws), then tighten the screw. After this, you can twist the cartridge itself counterclockwise; its thread is standard. It happens that this is very difficult to do, since over time it is very delayed. To remove, you can use it to grab it tightly, for example, take number two. You can use the help of a friend: one holds the neck of the drill with one key, the second twists the cartridge itself with another key. Especially if the drill is old, it’s a little difficult without an assistant.

Cartridge on a cone.


They are put on by simple push-on. There are also several varieties: B10, B12, B16, B18. If there is a letter “B” in the marking on the cartridge, know that it is on a cone and there is no thread at the bottom.
The number in the cartridge marking indicates the diameter of the hole at the bottom. The larger it is, the larger the hole. In chucks B10, B12 you can clamp a drill with a maximum shank of 13mm. And B16, B18 allow you to clamp drills with a shank up to 16mm.
Such a cartridge should be removed by knocking it out of the drill, simply and simply using a hammer.
It is mounted on a special pin - a holder located on the drill.

There are cartridges with key, has quick-release fasteners(in the first photo).
The advantages of quick clamping include the fact that it is convenient to quickly change drills. The downside is that sometimes drills can turn, especially if the shank is cylindrical (round) and not hexagonal, especially when the drill for metal is of large diameter. The load is large, but you can’t tighten it by hand, which can’t be said about the “classic” cartridges, which are tightened with a key. In my opinion, this is much more reliable. The only negative is that you can lose the key, for this it is logical to screw it onto the drill cable with electrical tape so that it is always in its place.

There are chucks with a 1/4" hex shank that can clamp drills from 0.6mm.

You have to remove the chuck from the electric drill to clean or replace it. The dismantling process itself is simple, and sometimes difficulties that arise can be solved. Our guide clearly shows how to properly remove the chuck from a drill with your own hands.

Methods for attaching cartridges

Hand drills use two types of drill chuck mounting:

  1. Morse taper - a conical shaft shank and a corresponding hole in the chuck.
  2. Threaded fastening - a thread on a shaft onto which the cartridge is screwed like a nut.

Take a close look at the metal rod between the body and the cartridge. In the case of a threaded fit, the slots for the open-end wrench are usually visible, and the tapered shaft is always smooth.

The method of fastening is also indicated by the markings stamped on the cartridge:

  1. The Morse cone is designated by the abbreviation B10, B12, etc. (B - cone, number - maximum size drills).
  2. The marking of the threaded cartridge contains a designation of the type and diameter of the thread: M13 (metric by 13 mm) or UNF-1/2 (inch by half inch).

Removing the threaded cartridge

For drills with a reverse function, the drill chuck is additionally secured with a locking screw, visible through the open jaws.

The slots on the screw head can be cross-shaped, hexagonal or even star-shaped. Prepare the required screwdriver, wrench or bit. Use a tool with complete splines that fit exactly.

Measure the size of the wrench space on the drill shaft. Most likely, it will be 14 mm for a mid-range tool or 17 mm for a more powerful device.

Prepare an open-end wrench with thin jaws. You can take a suitable one from a bicycle repair kit or grind off the edges of a regular key using sandpaper.

Hold the drill shaft with a wrench and try using a screwdriver to unscrew the screw clockwise (left-hand thread).

Try not to tear off the splines.

If the thread does not work, secure the electric drill chuck in a vice and hit the screw head several times with a hammer through a steel rod.

Now the thread will become more pliable and the screw will come loose.

Difficulties may arise. Try increasing the leverage by holding a hex wrench in the chuck.

As a last resort, use a vice, placing a drill in it as in the photo below.

Move the cartridge from its place by striking the driver secured through the square head.

This method makes it possible to unscrew fairly strongly stuck cartridges.

After cleaning, reinstall the chuck in reverse order, keeping in mind the different thread directions.

Apply a little paint to the threads before tightening the locking screw.

Specifics of cone fastening

In modern hand-held electric drills, the Morse taper is rarely found. Such models are equipped with special pullers, and the dismantling process is displayed in the technical description.

In old Soviet drills, the design of the gearbox made it possible to remove the chuck using rather crude methods. One could try to separate the conical surfaces with a wedge-shaped object, lightly knocking it from different sides.

Another option was to take the drill with one hand with the chuck facing down, and with the other to apply light blows to the end with a hammer. If that didn’t help, they lubricated the landing site with a penetrating compound (kerosene or WD-40), let it sit for several hours, and tried to knock the cartridge off again.

This method can be used if the shaft bearing is installed inside the housing. For most drills used today, this method is unacceptable, as it can lead to damage to the bearings or gearbox.

When selecting a new chuck, pay attention to the type of fastening, bore diameter and the ability to operate in impact mode, if your drill has this option.

It's hard to imagine a home without an electric drill. This is almost every man's favorite instrument.

Usually the user does not worry about the drill, works for himself with the tool, and let it work. But then a strong beating of the drill appeared or the clamping mechanism jammed, and repairs loomed on the horizon. It became necessary to remove or even disassemble the cartridge. This is where some inexperienced craftsmen will need advice on how to perform necessary work without damaging the drill completely and irrevocably. To begin with, you should familiarize yourself with information about the types of cartridges and methods of attaching them to the drill.

Design features

Main types of cartridges for household drills the following:

  • quick-release or BZP, easy to use, allowing you to easily and quickly change tools, but strength and durability are not too high; nevertheless, drills with quick-release chucks (with one or two clutches) are deservedly popular;
  • toothed, requiring the use of a special key.

There are also other varieties, for example, SDS+ and SDS-max from Bosch. But it is not worth dwelling on this issue in detail, since the type of chuck according to the method of clamping the drill does not affect the method of attaching the chuck to the drill spindle.

Attaching the chuck to the spindle of an electric drill

Actually, There are two mounting methods:

  • cone mate;
  • threaded connection.

You can find out the type of fastening by the marking:

  • the inscriptions B10, B12, B18, etc. characterize the parameters of the Morse cone, the special shape of the mating surfaces (in total there are 9 standard sizes from B7 to B45); before this designation, the range of drill shank diameters is marked, for example, 1−6 B10;
  • type designations 1−15 M13×1.3; characterizing the parameters of metric threads (diameter of drill shanks, thread diameter and thread pitch);
  • abbreviation UNF (the full marking is similar in structure to the marking of metric threads, for example, 2−13 mm ½ - UNF, where ½ indicates the thread diameter in inches, and the number 20 characterizes the number of threads per inch length), which indicates fastening using an inch thread ; this type of connection is typical for imported instruments.

Technology for removing the chuck from an electric drill

To perform this operation The following tools may be required:

The tool is first removed from the chuck. The key chuck can be unlocked without a key by inserting the drill shank into the hole.

Dismantling with conical mating

This pairing option should not cause disassembly difficulties.

If there is a fixing screw, remove it.

It is recommended to orient the tool with the drill downwards and remove the cartridge by light tapping hammer (to protect mechanisms from damage, the best option is to strike the cartridge body with a rubber or wooden mallet through a gasket - an open-end wrench).

If you have a tool for removing bearings, it is better to use it.

Dismantling with a threaded connection

In this case The disassembly order is as follows:

  1. The cams are recessed as far as possible, since at the bottom of their socket there is the head of the internal screw, which must be reached with a screwdriver. However, the presence of a screw is not mandatory.
  2. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the screw from the spindle; the fixing screw has a left-hand thread, that is, it is unscrewed by rotating the screwdriver clockwise. If you have difficulty turning the screw, you can lightly tap it with a hammer through a screwdriver.
  3. The cartridge is unscrewed from the shaft like a regular nut with a right-hand thread, that is, by rotating counterclockwise. If the process is difficult, it is recommended to use two keys. The spindle is fixed with an open-end wrench, and the chuck is unscrewed with a gas wrench. You can insert a thicker hexagon into the jaws and unscrew the cartridge with it.

If the operation still fails, you will have to disassemble the body of the electric drill to gain access to the spindle.

And one more tip: if during disassembly the screw turns out to be damaged, then you can purchase an adapter for