Fraction 3.5 mm what number. Hunting shot: classification and independent production
Hunting shot is a component for loading cartridges that has long become an integral part of the life of any hunter. It is with its help that game (roe deer, duck, wood grouse, black grouse, pheasant) is often killed. Unlike other cartridge components, production and appearance This ammunition has not actually changed in the 150 years that have passed since its invention.
Types of fractions
So what is a fraction? These are small lead balls (up to 5 mm in size) used for hunting a variety of animals (for example, black grouse, wood grouse, hare, pheasant). However, there are many types of it:
Material
According to the material from which it is made:
- Lead. The use of lead is very widespread, since this material has all the necessary qualities- heavy, cheap, fusible. It is easy to do it yourself at home. However, such pellets are too soft, in addition, lead is toxic and disrupts the environment. In the West, similar types of shot for hunting under pressure from the “greens” are actually no longer used today.
- Steel. Such ammunition does not deform, but loses speed faster and damages the bore.
- Red-hot. The same shot is lead, but tin, arsenic, antimony or some other chemicals are added to it.
- Clad. Lead shot coated with nickel or cupronickel. On this moment the best in terms of characteristics and the most expensive option on the market.
Diameter
Remember that the classification by diameter varies depending on the country of origin (a Russian table will be given below, and to get acquainted with the foreign classification it is recommended to refer to the materials provided by the country of origin).
Numbering of fractions in the Russian classification:
| Size | |
|---|---|
| Fraction 0000 (4/0) size | 5mm diameter |
| 000 (3/0) size | 4.75mm diameter |
| 00 (2/0) size | 4.5mm diameter |
| 0 size | 4.25mm diameter |
| 1 size | 4mm diameter |
| size 2 | 3.75mm diameter |
| Size 3 | 3.5mm diameter |
| size 4 | 3.25mm diameter |
| size 5 | 3mm diameter |
| size 6 | 2.75mm diameter |
| size 7 | 2.5mm diameter |
| size 8 | 2.25mm diameter |
| size 9 | 2mm diameter |
| size 10 | 1.75mm diameter |
| size 11 | 1.50mm diameter |
| size 12 | 1.25 mm diameter - the smallest shot |
As you'll notice, the millimeter of this ammunition decreases by a quarter (0.25) millimeter as the size goes down.
This classification is too cumbersome, so you can sort the fraction differently:
- Small (10-6 number);
- Average (5-1 number);
- Large(0, 00,000, 000);
Shot, buckshot or bullet?
Many new hunters often confuse these concepts, so it would be nice to make the difference more obvious:
Small, centered balls whose shape is close to a sphere. Excellent for small game.
Ammunition larger than 5 mm (used for hunting larger game, for example, roe deer).
Full metal projectile. There are many varieties of them, but they are used, like buckshot, for hunting roe deer, wild boars and other large game.
Which shot should I use for which game?
Many hunters ask who (goose, black grouse, pheasant, hare, wood grouse) needs to be killed and with what kind of shells? For information about who needs to be hit and with what, see below:
When determining the required shot number, remember that about 4-5 pellets should hit the game, therefore, when shooting at small targets (goose, duck, hare, pheasant, capercaillie) with buckshot at best case scenario 1-2 pellets will hit, which means you will be left wounded. On the other hand, if the shot fall is still satisfactory, then the game (duck, wood grouse, black grouse, pheasant, hare) will simply be torn to pieces and lose all its value.
On the other hand, if you shoot projectiles that are too small, you will not penetrate the plumage of a grouse or goose, as well as the skin of a roe deer, so you will shoot in vain.
How to improve combat accuracy with hunting shot?
Many people ask what is the point of making ammunition with my own hands, if there are good store hangers? If you make shot at home, it will be much cheaper, even if it is inferior in quality to the factory one. In addition, many old hunters prefer to make their own ammunition (depending on who they are hunting: black grouse, duck, wood grouse, hare or goose) to be sure of the quality of the fight. Casting usually produces buckshot or medium/large numbers. Lead is taken from either cable lead or battery lead (terminals) and mixed in a ratio of 1/3.
There are different ways to make shot at home, but all options are related to casting to one degree or another. Here is one of these methods:
- It all starts with a shotgun die, which needs to be done once, and then used for a lifetime. It looks like two pieces of metal with grooves that are connected by a hinge with handles. In both halves we make recesses for different sizes of pellets (from buckshot to number 2). The resulting hemispherical recesses are connected to each other by grooves. All the grooves, gathered together, go into the gutter. The better the grooves are made, the higher the quality of the buckshot.
- We pour molten shot lead (according to the recipe above) into the gutter, and after casting, the pellets are simply cut off from each other with metal scissors.
Ready! Before shooting someone with it, it is recommended to roll it on a shot roller, otherwise the accuracy and range of the fire will suffer (hunting roe deer, wood grouse, duck, goose or black grouse is out of the question).
Which shot is used for which game?
I would like to talk about all types of shot used in hunting, and give tips and guidelines for using the appropriate cartridges.
1. Shot #10, 1.75 mm.. I don’t know exactly where to use such a shot. It can be shot at woodcock, corncrake, and quail, but the too small size of the shot and the low energy of each shot greatly limits the shooting range.
2. Shot #9, 2.00 mm. This shot should be used when hunting woodcock, quail, hazel grouse, snipe, crostel and other similar birds.
3. Shot #8-#7, 2.25-2.50 mm.. This shot can be used when hunting the above game, but at a slightly longer distance. Can be used when hunting duck - teal.
4. Shot #6, 2.75 mm.. It should be used when hunting for more large bird: duck and black grouse in early autumn, mountain birds such as pigeons and chukars.
5. Shot #5-#4, 3.00-3.25 mm. This shot can be used when shooting at northern ducks in late autumn.
6. Shot #3-#2, 3.50-3.75 mm.. Can also be used when shooting at a duck, but it is better at a goose in early autumn, if it flies at a low altitude or the hunter allows the bird close to the blind. You can use it to finish off wounded animals.
7. Shot #1, 4.00 mm.. It should be used when shooting at a hare, wild rabbit, goose, capercaillie and black grouse on the lek - at a low altitude.
8. Shot 0-00, 4.25-4.50 mm.. You can shoot at a goose, capercaillie on the current.
9. Shot 000-0000, 4.75-5.00 mm.. Can be used when shooting at a goose at a long distance, 60 meters or more.
A rather important note: the outcome of the hunt depends on what shot you choose. If you shoot with smaller shot, the chances of hitting increase, but often small shot cannot kill large animal and wounded people remain, and this, you see, is even more offensive than a miss. If you use a larger shot, then the chances of hitting become minimal, and the game is greatly spoiled if you hit (imagine a woodcock that has been hit by several 00 pellets).
It also depends a lot on what kind of gunpowder you use; from chokes; depends on whether the shot is in a container or dusty.
Probably everyone knows that the smaller the choke, the greater the spread of the shot.
diameter, mm
object of hunting
note
10
9
81,75
2,00
2,25Great snipes, snipes, quails, etc.
One or another type of shot, depending on the firing range of the gun and the hunting season
2,50
2,75
3,00
As you know, hunting is a serious and responsible matter. You need to approach it very carefully, especially when it comes to choosing a gun.
You can hunt with different weapons– exclusive, richly decorated models of guns, or with simpler representatives of the IZH or TOZ class. The main thing is to choose the right caliber of weapon for each game.
Let's try to figure out this important point.
If you have to hunt in Europe or Ukraine, the list of possible game will be more or less similar. Of course, you won’t find mouflon in Ukraine, just like Caucasian tour. But numerous birds, roe deer, and wild boar are found in most regions of Europe. Bird hunting in Germany differs little from that in Ukraine, for example in Polesie or in the Chernigov region.
Legislative issues different countries are not among those discussed in this material. It's about only about technical issues related to the choice of caliber for hunting. Legal subtleties should be learned before a specific trip.
Smooth-bore weapons of different calibers, in general, are intended for similar purposes, even if they perform them with a few different effectiveness. In Europe, 16- or 20-gauge shotguns are more often used; in Ukraine, 12-gauge ones are also common. But hunting with all smoothbore guns is, in general, very similar. To begin with, let’s look at hunting using such guns as the most accessible for most novice hunters.
The choice of shot or buckshot depends not only on the type of game, but also on the characteristics of the hunt. Sometimes it is worth taking cartridges for a hare even with shot number 0. When hunting in the fall, the bird becomes more resistant to wounds, therefore it is worth taking 1-2 numbers more shot than for summer hunting. Also, do not forget about the distance from which the shooting is carried out.
For small game birds, for example, quail or sandpiper, snipe or great snipe, shot numbers from 11 to 7 are used. When hunting partridge, duck, black grouse, woodcock or hazel grouse, even for squirrels, it is most often advisable to use shot number 5 or 6, especially in summer. In summer, this shot is also suitable for pheasant.
During autumn or winter hunting for capercaillie, duck or black grouse, muskrat, hare, marten, mink or ferret, hunters more often use 4 or 3 shot numbers. To hunt a badger, raccoon or goose, the cartridges are equipped with 2 or 1 shot number. A fraction from 0 to 0000 is chosen when hunting a fox or goat, a goose or bustard, a capercaillie on a lek, as well as a beaver or an otter. Sometimes even for a wolf it is recommended to take cartridges with shot 000-0000, but it is still more reliable for such dangerous beast use more serious ammunition.
Buckshot is used for even larger game. Small buckshot, 6-7 mm in diameter, is suitable for hunting wolves or roe deer. Large buckshot (8-10 mm) is intended for wild boar, elk or deer.
If you look at a variety of books on hunting, many questions may arise. Various authors often recommend different fraction for the same type of game, which confuses the novice hunter. But it is worth remembering that usually a beginner goes hunting with older comrades, whose opinions and experience are worth listening to.
P.S. It just so happens that I don’t like writing “in the box.” This text was written for people who did not find it useful. Accordingly, I decided to post it here. Again, in the language that was ordered. If you have your own amendments, additions, corrections to the facts provided in the text - write. As you understand, there can be many opinions - that’s what she’s looking for.
04/07/2009 | Shooting game "Line"
Success in hunting consists of three components: the first is to find the game, the second is to shoot successfully and the third is to find the trophy after the shot. They are equally important for a hunter, and the absence of at least one of them deprives you of the chance of a successful hunt. Let's talk mainly about the second component - a successful shot, the most emotional part of the hunt.
I would like to draw the attention of a young hunter to a very interesting manual - “Hunting Rifle Line” by P.V. Sergeev - which, when I was a novice hunter, helped me a lot and contributed to the fact that my first hunts were more or less successful . I no longer remember the original source where this “line” was published, and therefore I am reproducing it from my notes. I can only say for sure that it was pre-war and was published in hunting literature of the 20-30s of the last century. The ruler was given in the form of tables, which require some explanation.
Table No. 1 gives charges of gunpowder and shot only for black powder, which was used by most hunters in those days. For the modern hunter, charge weights are indicated on the smokeless powder markings. They usually provide initial speed shot charge about 400 m/sec.
Black powder charges give a slightly lower initial velocity, but given that the shot velocity quickly drops due to air resistance (proportional to the square of the velocity), this difference does not play a special role in calculating the lead.
The second table (No. 2) remains relevant in our time, with the exception, perhaps, of the point where it is recommended to shoot young black grouse with No. 8 shot. This is only possible when shooting grouse broods in August from under the stance of a pointing dog. But such lambing is not currently practiced.
Table No. 3 is closer to our topic, as it gives a formula for determining the amount of lead. Try to determine for yourself the lead required when shooting during duck flight, and compare it with the lead that you did on the last hunts. We compared, so how? Remember that the body length mallard duck about 50cm, and if you shoot it at the limit of the shot, then most often you need to take a lead of 5-6 lengths.
Table No. 4 does not require any special explanation, just look at it more often before hunting, it helps a lot. Table No. 5 - also without comments. Table No. 6 is very useful, especially before a hunt. Table No. 7 is the same as No. 4, only calculated in meters. Don’t be surprised by such a large lead, because 50m is the height of a 14-story building, so imagine a bird flying at the level of this building, and 2-3m of lead won’t seem very big to you. For a hunter, this table is especially important for determining the permissible shooting distance while hunting. It has been verified on numerous hunts and only needs some adjustment in one direction or another, depending on the specific hunting conditions. A lot depends on the gun you use, and even more on the cartridge. By equipping the cartridge appropriately and using a plastic container, you can shift this table by at least one column for shot numbers from “five” to “zero”. To enhance the effect, you can evenly sprinkle the shot with starch, cover it with thin paper on top and apply an asterisk twist. This is a reliable guarantee of shot accuracy and range.
If you don’t have a plastic wad container on hand, you can replace it with a homemade cylinder of thick paper such as Whatman paper, wrap a strip of this paper around a cylindrical rod for delivering the wads, secure the bottom and place it in the cartridge, then all the operations are the same. The cartridge is ready. Its only drawback is the stronger recoil when fired. But this also indicates that the cartridge is loaded correctly and the charge has good sharpness.
One more tip. If you load the cartridges yourself, use greasy felt wads and be sure to place a thick cardboard pad on the powder, or better yet a plastic one, which can be found in stores. When using wood-fiber wads, a polyethylene gasket is required.
A cartridge with a polyethylene container is capable of reliably defeating game up to 70m. But hitting a target at such a distance is much more difficult, and finding a downed duck in the swamp thickets that fell at 70-80m without a dog is even more problematic. Therefore, the use of this cartridge is limited. It is necessary when hunting geese and hares. They almost always have to be shot at long ranges. Now about another cartridge. It is not always necessary to shoot at extreme distances. In the forest, on woodcock dumps, when hunting swamp and meadow game, you often have to shoot, at least the first time, at a distance of 10 to 20 m, then the standard cartridge turns out to be too dense, which leads to annoying misses, and when it hits, it tears the game .
In this case, I have been using the so-called “forest” cartridge for many years, the diagram of which is given in the figure. From the picture it is clear how to equip it. A small explanation: the wads must be felt, the shot is divided into three equal parts, the wads that separate the shot are 1/2 of the main wad. And one more thing: you can slightly increase the charge of gunpowder, by 0.1-0.15g, and cut the cartridge case to 65mm with a 70mm chamber. Such a charge reliably hits a target at a distance of up to 25 m, even with not very accurate aiming, although I have shot down game with it at 40 m. When hunting by traction, it can be used for the first shot when the woodcock flies 15-20 m from the shooter. Let me remind you that the shot for such charges should not be larger than No. 6. Everything said above is, so to speak, theoretical baggage. But how to apply all this knowledge in practice not for loading cartridges, but for shooting? For successful hunting, home training with a gun is necessary, consisting of throws and a leash.
I will share my experience of how I mastered this table. Let's say you determine that the bird is moving at a distance of 50m and you need to take a lead of six lengths. You set the aiming point to this value, but under no circumstances stop the gun at the moment of the shot, otherwise a miss is inevitable - the gun must continue to move with an angular velocity equal to angular velocity birds. True, there is not always enough time for such a shot, especially at dusk... But this is the beauty of hunting. Another method, more effective and requiring some skill, which can also be acquired by home training: quickly throw the gun at the lead point and, continuing to move, quickly press the trigger. The first method is more convenient to shoot at a clearly visible target, as if approaching the shooter from afar. If time is short, then there is no other option. In the first case, this is shooting "with a leash", or "with a leash", in the second - "offhand". But you can train yourself in shooting even without a gun. While walking, watch the flight of birds and mentally find the aiming point at which you would raise the gun. This will come in handy later on the hunt.
When hunting on the fly, when choosing a place from where you will shoot, determine the maximum shooting distance, focusing on the surrounding objects: trees, bushes, grass thickets, etc. This will help you take the lead correctly and eliminate useless shots. If you don't have a dog, choose a location where you can easily find downed game.
Formula for determining the lead value: Y=V v *t
Y- lead value in meters
Vv- speed of target movement, m/sec;
t- time of flight of the shot to the target, sec
Table No. 1 Charges of gunpowder and shot
Table No. 2 What shot numbers to shoot game with
Table No. 3 Shot flight time at various distances (sec)
| Diameter, mm | 1,5 | 2 | 2,5 | 3 | 3,5 | 4 | 6,17 | 8,49 |
| Number | 11 | 9 | 7 | 5 | 3 | 1 | buckshot | |
| Distance, m | ||||||||
| 20 | 0,07 | 0,07 | 0,06 | 0,06 | 0,06 | 0,06 | 0,06 | 0,06 |
| 30 | 0,13 | 0,11 | 0,11 | 0,10 | 0,10 | 0,10 | 0,09 | 0,09 |
| 40 | 0,2 | 0,17 | 0,16 | 0,15 | 0,14 | 0,14 | 0,13 | 0,12 |
| 50 | 0,3 | 0,24 | 0,22 | 0,20 | 0,19 | 0,18 | 0,17 | 0,16 |
| 60 | 0,33 | 0,29 | 0,26 | 0,25 | 0,24 | 0,21 | 0,20 | |
| 70 | 0,44 | 0,37 | 0,33 | 0,31 | 0,28 | 0,25 | 0,24 | |
| 80 | 0,57 | 0,47 | 0,42 | 0,38 | 0,36 | 0,30 | 0,27 | |
| 90 | 0,74 | 0,59 | 0,57 | 0,43 | 0,43 | 0,35 | 0,32 | |
| 100 | 0,95 | 0,73 | 0,62 | 0,55 | 0,50 | 0,41 | 0,37 | |
Hunting target speed:
Fast flight of birds: 20m/sec (72km/hour or more)
Average speed of birds: 15m/sec (54km/h)
Fast run of a hare: 10-12m/sec (36-38km/hour)
Normal running of a hare: 7-8m/sec (25-28km/hour)
Table No. 4 The magnitude of corrections for leads in game bodies at a charge meeting angle of 60°-90°
| Name | Length body, cm | Speed, m/s | Distance, m | ||||
| Teal | 30 | 15 | 2 1 / 3 | 4 1 / 3 | 7 | ||
| 20 | 3 1 / 3 | 6 | 8 2 / 3 | ||||
| Mallard | 50 | 10 | 4 / 5 | 1 1 / 2 | 2 1 / 2 | 3 1 / 5 | |
| 15 | 1 1 / 2 | 2 1 / 2 | 4 | 5 1 / 2 | |||
| Hare | 60 | 7 | 2 / 3 | 1 1 / 3 | 1 2 / 3 | 3 | |
| 10 | 1 1 / 3 | 2 | 2 2 / 3 | 3 1 / 2 | |||
Table No. 5 Lead correction, depending on the angle at which the charge meets the target
Table No. 6 Aiming points for stationary and moving targets 
Table No. 7 The amount of movement of target targets during the flight of the shot (m)
Table No. 8 Shot lethality at various distances (m)
| Fraction number | for sure | probability lesions 70% | maybe some more hit the target |
| 10 | 20-25 | 30 | 35 |
| 9 | 20-25 | 35 | 40 |
| 8 | 30 | 35 | 40 |
| 7 | 35 | 40 | 50 |
| 6 | 35-40 | 50 | 55 |
| 5 | 40 | 50 | 60 |
| 3 | 50 | 60 | 70 |
| 1 | 50 | 60 | 70-80 |
| 0000 | 70 | 90 | 100 |
| 6mm buckshot | 70-80 | 100 | 120 |
| 8mm buckshot | 100 | 120 | 150 |
And this is all about Sergeev’s “line”. It ends with the words: “Don’t be afraid to preempt—be afraid to backfire!” Stick to this rule and you won't regret it.
KaraTT 20-10-2009 22:02
Fractions
Diameter (in millimeters)
Game
10
1,75
Great snipe, snipe, quail
9
2,0
Great snipe, snipe, quail
8
2,25
Great snipe, snipe, quail
7
2,50
6
2,75
Woodcock, pigeon, partridge, duck, black grouse, etc. (in summer)
5
3,00
Woodcock, pigeon, partridge, duck, black grouse, etc. (in summer)
4
3,25
Black grouse, wood grouse, hare, duck
3 2
3,50 3,75
Black grouse, wood grouse, hare, duck
1
4,0
Goose, bustard, fox, hare
0 2/0
4,25 4,50
Goose, bustard, fox, hare
3/0
4,75
Wolf, bustard, wild boar, etc.
4/0 5/0
5,00 5,25
Wolf, bustard, wild boar, etc.
6/0
5,50
Wolf, bustard, wild boar, etc.
Hunter1978 20-10-2009 22:20
Experienced hunters generally use a small number of shot numbers. I don’t consider myself an experienced hunter, but I came up with the following shot numbers: duck, partridge, pheasant, pigeon N6, hare at the beginning of the season N3 at the end of N1, I don’t hunt other types of game yet!
pavell07 20-10-2009 22:30
my choice: 9-quail, partridge, 7-pigeon pheasant, 5-duck coot from the approach, 3 ducks in flight, 0-goose, hare
KaraTT 20-10-2009 22:40
guys, for a raccoon dog, what do you recommend now, is 00 suitable?
dark strange 20-10-2009 22:41
From practice.
duck gets hit at a distance
N7 up to 35m
N5 up to 40-45m
N4 50m
N3 60-70m
For hares (foxes) and geese
N3 up to 35m
N1-0 40-45m
N00 up to 60m.
N000 up to 70m
N0000 up to 80-90m
these are distances and shot numbers that hit the target with virtually no wounded wounds. This is from the practice of hunting animals. Well, for example, N1 limit is 45m, if you shoot at 70m, we get a wounded animal, and the animal is strong against a wound.
Hunter1978 20-10-2009 23:07
quote: N0000 up to 80-90m
- I don’t want to in any way challenge your experience in shooting, but I would like to know what lead you take on a hare at such a distance, and how many pellets hit the hare. Thank you in advance!
Grandfather Mikhas 20-10-2009 23:17
N5 up to 40-45m
N4 50m
N3 60-70m
N00 up to 60m.
N000 up to 70m
N0000 up to 80-90m
I agree with Okhotnik1978’s question.
Dokalfar 21-10-2009 02:20
I want it like this:
1. N8 - there are various marsh snipes and partridges;
2. N7 - partridges and all sorts of ducks (only in the fall for opening);
3. N5 - curls and ducks (in the fall for opening and occasionally in spring for opening);
4. N3 - ducks (opening in spring);
5. N1-N0 - hares (both in autumn and winter) and geese (in spring).
Although I personally mined 2 gray geese with a six - I hit it under the feather from 15 meters (they rose from the reeds), and this fall a friend in my presence shot down a heron right out of oxygen with a seven (my self-loading) - it probably died from fright...
P.S. Shooting with shot at a moving target over 50 m (and up to 90 m!!!) - I consider the height of shooting and hunting skill, as well as shooting at wild boars with N000 and N0000 shot - I consider the height of hunting fearlessness (well, if only minke whales, or there in the ear almost point blank)!!!
StarnaK 21-10-2009 11:35
quote: N000 up to 70m
N0000 up to 80-90m
There was such a topic in GO pages in a hundred pages. There, too, one was still shooting at 80 meters. When called to account, he chose to leave.
Just not serious.
StarnaK 21-10-2009 13:13
quote: If you place a box from a refrigerator at 90 meters, will at least one pellet hit?
There are different types of refrigerators. If from a large refrigerator, and take it a meter higher than the box, NN fractions are 3-4, I think one, or even all one and a half, will hit
tireur 21-10-2009 13:47
In principle, if you take a choke and shoot with small N7 shot in a container, at least one will hit. I shot myself, though at 70 meters into sheet A3 - 2-3 pellets hit. But another question is what will be the energy of this shot as it approaches the target and what is the probability that it will hit the game.
igorper 21-10-2009 13:54
N 9 and 10-quail.
7-dove. In the right trunk for pheasant and partridge.
5-pheasant and duck, partridge.
3-right trunk is hare and left is duck.
1-hare, fox.
0-fox and goose.
00 - very rare - goose and fox.
It is not possible to hunt other game yet.
Dokalfar 21-10-2009 14:36
StarnaK,
everything is correct, when shooting a shot into a refrigerator box at 90 m, you need to take your sights higher by a meter, or even two, - by analogy with the wildest African blacks shooting at deer with poisoned arrows with a canopy...
Well, seriously, at 90 m, I think, you need to equip it like this: in a case with 2/3 (by eye) of Bars gunpowder + a cardboard spacer with a hole + shot (it will fit as fast as you can) + spacer + twist..., -
guess what I mean???, - yes, this is it, a powder-shot binary charge...
plumby 21-10-2009 15:32
Colleagues, can you tell a newbie why 70% of topics that mention shooting all devolve into either shooting shotgun at “hundreds of meters” or reproaches to those who conduct such shooting??? Well, if I personally don’t see shooting at 80 meters, I don’t say in the words of a village makar: “Tuuuuu, Maaasssssqua, don’t make it up!”! Maybe they have the wrong type of cartridges... Maybe I should leave these words to the shooters themselves to decide???
What do I think:
9-8 dispersant - partridges, hazel grouse, up to 20 meters, when pulled from under your feet and waders
7ka (often sporting) and 6ka are the same types only when the distance is unknown.
5 and 6 duck in autumn and spring
3-1 goose on profiles with decoys if landing.
0-00 a goose on the fly, a capercaillie on the approach, (a hare, a fox too, but I haven’t shot them yet)
Buckshot 6.2 and 8.5 Wolves and roe deer
Only bullets are larger than roe deer.
Often the choice between, for example, 3 and 1 or 0 and 00 is determined only by the presence or absence of them...
StarnaK 21-10-2009 18:15
quote: Colleagues, tell a newbie why 70% of topics that mention shooting all go wrong....
And because, colleague, “which numbers to shoot which game” has already been discussed twenty times - it’s boring
As for whether it can be left up to the conscience of the shooters - it can be left - depending on the mood.
dark strange 21-10-2009 18:48
quote: In principle, if you take a choke and shoot with small N7 shot in a container, at least one will hit. I shot myself, though at 70 meters into sheet A3 - 2-3 pellets hit. But another question is what will be the energy of this shot as it approaches the target and what is the probability that it will hit the game.
That's much better.
I shot. AND REGULAR way N1 for this distance is 10 pellets. Composite container 20.
and if you shoot with an MR with a barrel length of 87cm and a choke......
dark strange 21-10-2009 18:50
I'll post the result soon. The targets are all ready, all that remains is to shoot the cartridges, but only for hunting. So there is no time to leave.
Grandfather Mikhas 21-10-2009 20:04
quote: Originally posted by dark strange:
I'll post the result soon. The targets are all ready, the ammunition remains to be shot,
dark strange 21-10-2009 20:22
quote: Remove the meters at least a little.
I won't remove it. I agree with you with the IZH-27, I don’t have an outstanding result with the P/H without any chemistry with the cartridge. And I will shoot no closer than 70m. Like this
Dokalfar 21-10-2009 20:24
quote: Remove the meters at least a little
I join
tireur 22-10-2009 12:14
quote: Originally posted by dark strange:
That's much better. I shot. And the USUAL method N1 for this distance is 10 pellets. Composite container 20.
Quite possible. It also depends on the aiming point, most likely in my case the shot sheaf flew around the target and there were few pellets in the center of it.
quote: Originally posted by R"RchRg R_RyoS:R.S_S_:
Remove the meters at least a little.
And the meaning. There was already a lot of shooting at close distances, but it was much more interesting to see what happened at long distances.
StarnaK 22-10-2009 10:35
quote: 70 meters on A3 sheet
quote: I shot. And the USUAL method N1 for this distance is 10 pellets. Composite container 20.
The forum has gone completely crazy.
Grandfather Mikhas 22-10-2009 21:56
quote: It also depends on the aiming point, most likely in my case the shot sheaf flew around the target and there were few pellets in the center of it.
even better than in "The Elusive Avengers."
Patso 22-10-2009 22:19
quote: And this is what you call a sure defeat?
Yessss! Your hunting distances are normal,
even better than in "The Elusive Avengers."
You are right, there is always a reasonable limit for a reliable defeat.
Although once while hunting, a good friend of mine shot at 2 roe deer running out of the pen towards him. He hit the first one about 20 meters from the front in the chest (all 20 buckshots of 6.2 (IZH58 16k) hit), the second goat rushed along the road on which the license plates stood, he fired in excitement and drove at her, forgetting about the distance, she turned over her head fell. Then it turned out that he shot from 90 steps. Only 2 buckshots hit - one in the stomach and reached the lungs, the second went under the ribs and pierced the heart. But this is just luck; you can never soberly assess the situation and shoot at such a distance.
tireur 23-10-2009 01:26
I never said that at this distance a reliable defeat is ensured, see my first post. I consider the maximum acceptable distance to be 50 meters. And the A3 target format approximately corresponds to the size of the intended game.
Customs 23-10-2009 08:34
Shot N1 with starch and with a nozzle providing gas release, CONFIDENTLY hits a target the size of a hare (accuracy/uniformity/sharpness) no more than 45 m (you still need to hit) - this is if we talk about a CONFIDENT hit. A larger shot, the target is the same distance, it is longer - a run-over (or worse, a wounded wound) is likely, everything is the same, only the target is larger - the sheaf is likely to have insufficient destructive power. Therefore, I think that shooting further than 45-50 meters makes no practical sense, and, among other things, it causes unjustified harm to nature (wounded wounded animals) and certain harm to the shooter’s practice: there is no confidence in the correct take-off, etc., because it is not clear that he missed/carried. I don’t shoot at birds that fly further than 30-35 meters, with the exception of a goose (but that’s a completely different story).
Maxim V 23-10-2009 08:57
In reality, TWO fraction numbers N3 and N7 are enough for all the game. In practice, it is very rarely necessary to shoot further than 30 meters, but usually 15-25 meters. I shoot beavers with tied buckshot at a distance of 7-10 meters, maximum 15. I live in a village and it’s easier for me: if the hare has risen 50 meters, why shoot? I'll try to catch him tomorrow or the day after tomorrow. Same with foxes and beavers. Where will they go? But there is no point in shooting at 50-70 meters since there is a high probability that he will get wounded and disappear pointlessly.
Patso 23-10-2009 12:47
quote: there is a high probability that he will leave wounded and disappear senselessly
That's right, if there is a high probability of being wounded, then it is better not to shoot.
Once a boar came out at me and stopped sideways, but covered himself with a thick pine tree - you could barely see his snouts, and his backside from the belly to the tail. I didn’t risk shooting, although there is a possibility that a bullet in the stomach would slow him down and there would be a chance to finish him off with buckshot from the second barrel.
Patso 23-10-2009 13:13
I think like this: For ducks at the beginning of the season - 7 on the right, 5 on the left. I buy 7 ready-made, 5 I spin myself. At the end of season 3. On the hare, right 00 left 1 - overlaps both the hare and the fox. On ungulates it’s a different story, with its own nuances.
Maxim V 23-10-2009 13:29
quote: On the hare, right 00 left 1 - overlaps both the hare and the fox. On ungulates it’s a different story, with its own nuances.
At 35 meters N3 breaks the bones of both the fox and the hare, and they fall down like they’ve been killed. Fraction N 00 is absolutely not needed, it simply has no one to shoot at long distance- rare scree and, as a result, wounded animals, but at 35-40 meters N3 is enough for the eyes.
quote: Why the hell shoot a quail with a 7 if you have 10 and 9?
Are you hunting at the zoo? And I live in a village nearby and hunt, and how can I walk along the edges with N9 waiting for quail, if there might be black grouse and hazel grouse, and in the swamp even a duck will rise? And when will I recharge? N9 is used exclusively for traction, the distance is 15-25 meters, and the log on the wound is weak.
Patso 23-10-2009 13:48
quote: Fraction N 00 is completely unnecessary
I just have a lot of this shot - I got it with my gun. It can even be used on roe deer, but not very reliably.
Maxim V 23-10-2009 13:54
quote: it can even be used on roe deer,
It is recommended to shoot roe deer with N 0000 shot, but at 25-30 meters, N 00 can be used, the diameter of 4.5 mm penetrates deeply, and at least 5-7 pieces will hit, the goat won’t even have time to meow.
Patso 23-10-2009 14:14
quote: but at least 5-7 pieces will hit
At 25-30 meters I have an approximate silhouette of a roe deer and 10-12 hits. But I prefer to use 6/0 or 6.5mm - better stopping power.
K N Yu 23-10-2009 14:31
mallard duck N5 N4 N3
all sorts of little things: partridges, waders N7
hare, fox N2 N1
roe buckshot N6.2 or shot N0000
wild boar, elk: there are bullets for that)))
StarnaK 23-10-2009 14:34
quote: Do you hunt at the zoo? And I live in a village nearby and hunt, and how can I walk along the edges with N9 waiting for quail, if there might be black grouse and hazel grouse, and in the swamp even a duck will rise?
Everything is clear with you, Mr. Poacher.
For information, the quail opens long before the duck opens. We don’t have black grouse or hazel grouse.
Do you always have all your vouchers included? And a couple of licenses for wood grouse and black grouse, so you don’t know who you’ll be shooting at? And what can rise from a millet field except a quail? Is it a crazy hare, the hunt for it opens two months after the last quail flies away.
On draft, please choose between the voiced three and seven; otherwise you're just a buffoon.
Maxim V 23-10-2009 14:49
quote: Everything is clear with you, Mr. Poacher
Am I a poacher? Why the hell?
quote: Do you always have all your vouchers included? And a couple of licenses for wood grouse and black grouse,
There are vouchers and licenses, including for ALL licensed species in our region (except for elk, which is not very tall)
Maxim V 23-10-2009 14:55
quote: Is this a crazy hare? The hunt for it opens two months after the last quail flies away.
Poke me with your nose where it is written that I hunt a hare and a quail at the same time.
quote: for wood grouse and black grouse,
WHERE did I write about hunting for the CANCIERY? But our grouse are like dirt and we don’t need licenses for them.
quote: For information, the quail opens long before the duck opens.
Hunting for quail opens AT THE SAME TIME as duck hunting, and hunting for quail later.
quote: On draft, please choose between the voiced three and seven; otherwise you're just a buffoon.
Where did I write that I use fraction N9? I just described the GAME THAT CAN BE HUNTED WITH SHOT N 9
quote: otherwise you're just a buffoonIf you are a man, and not... erase your post and apologize.
StarnaK 23-10-2009 15:23
quote: Am I a poacher? Why the hell?
I explained it in my opinion. You can’t shoot according to the principle of “what will take off” because... It is impossible to have vouchers for everything at once. But licenses for poultry are often per diem, and they must be sold on the same day, rather than looking for “what will take off.”
quote: There are vouchers and licenses, including for ALL licensed species in our region
I don't believe it, sorry.
quote: Poke me with your nose where it is written that I hunt a hare and a quail at the same time.
Where is it written that I said so? I said
quote: And what can rise from a millet field except a quail? Is it a crazy hare?
quote: WHERE did I write about hunting for the CANCIERY?
About the capercaillie - nowhere. I added it myself as a typical licensed type. Let there be a pheasant.
quote: Quail hunting opens AT THE SAME TIME as duck hunting
It’s in your village that a quail, a duck, a hare, a roaring elk and a grouse on the lek open at the same time
Meanwhile, it is enough to open the decree and make sure that in the RO quail opens in early August, duck - in mid-September. And even before the decree it was like this from time immemorial. By the time the duck opens, 99% of the quail flies away. Real quail hunting - from opening to mid-September. During this period, hunting for all species except quail, pigeon and wild boar is prohibited.
quote: In reality, TWO fraction numbers N3 and N7 are enough for all the game
quote: N9 is used exclusively for traction, distance 15-25 meters,
Don't you think the statements contradict each other? Notice you didn't write "I have enough." Just enough means generally enough. And right there: 9 on traction, and even “exclusively”. Why 9 if 3 and 7 are enough? And why "exclusively"? What am I breaking by shooting quail and sometimes partridge with a 9-pointer?
In general, horseradish in the village, two in the village.
KaraTT 23-10-2009 16:19
Friends, you have moved away from the topic and become personal! I ask you not to swear and not to litter the topic.
Personally, as a novice hunter, I learned a lot from what was written here. Everyone has their own opinion and it deserves attention. And you can sort things out in private!
Maxim V 23-10-2009 16:30
quote: that in RO quail opens in early August, duck in mid-September.
The hunt opens on the 2nd Saturday of August. This year it opened on August 8th. Are you actually from Russia?
quote: : 9 on the draft, and even “exclusively”.In the Vologda region there is no one to shoot besides the log N (there is no one to shoot, in Karelia too, and that’s where I mostly hunt. We don’t have pheasants.
quote: and black grouse on the lek
What kind of grouse is on the lek in August?
quote: Real quail hunting - from opening to mid-September. During this period, hunting for all species except quail, pigeon and wild boar is prohibited.
At this time, hunting is open for almost everything except beaver (from October 1), mink, black polecat (from November 1)
quote: in general, daily allowances and they need to be sold on the same day, and not look for “what will take off.”
Did you fall from an oak tree? The license is issued FOR THE SEASON, as well as vouchers.
quote: During this period, hunting for all species except quail, pigeon and wild boar is prohibited.
Well, why are you making this up? Or do you act on the principle of giving in and not giving in? At least look at the hunting rules, read who you can hunt and at what time in Tver, Moscow, Vologda, Leningrad, Kaluga regions.
quote: It is impossible to have vouchers for everything at once.
You can, you come to the community and take a “SEASON” for a bird, in the season it is written from what date and who you can hunt, later you take a “SEASON” for fur species. If you take a license, then in the season there is a column where the license numbers are entered and the licensed species is added to the list of permitted species. We don’t charge daily vouchers; our distances are long. Don’t think that all of Russia hunts according to the laws of the Rostov region. (And there are no millet fields in the Vologda region, just like in the Tver region)
Scorp 3 23-10-2009 17:51
99% of fraction numbers used:
5 duck, partridge
3 ducks on the field, flight, hare
1 goose, hare in winter (my biggest expense is 1)
00 goose on vacation, partly hare.
Pulver 23-10-2009 19:28
If anyone is interested.
N9-snipe, corncrake, great snipe (we almost didn’t have any), quail, partridge, woodcock.
N7.5 (2.4mm) - woodcock, partridge, duck for opening (although it can be done later)
NN7,6,5 - whole duck and regardless of the time of year, only from the place of hunting.
NN 1,0,2/0 - fox, brown hare, goose. I plan to add N2 for hare and goose.
N4/0 - kept in the bandoleer just in case.
StarnaK 23-10-2009 20:01
quote: The hunt opens on the 2nd Saturday of August. This year it opened on August 8th. Are you actually from Russia?
For those in the tank
duck:
3rd Saturday of September - December 31 (clause 61 of the rules)
quail:
2nd Saturday of August - November 30 (clause 62 of the rules)
quote: In the Vologda region, except for the log tree N (there is no one to shoot
just from there. Looks like there's no one there to shoot at all except maybe a duck.
quote: What kind of grouse is on the lek in August?
you know better. you shoot everything at the same time. that's why I wrote it.
quote: At this time, we are open to hunting for almost everything.
and we have only a dove and a quail.
quote: The license is issued FOR THE SEASON
In your village this is issued for the season. A DAILY license is issued for pheasant, partridge and occasionally other species. I didn't take it - all the best. Understand, not everywhere is like in your village.
quote: who can be hunted and at what time in the Tver, Moscow, Vologda, Leningrad, Kaluga regions.
And what exactly do these areas have to do with it? I advise you to do the same in relation to the Rostov region and Krasnodar region. And make sure that at this time we only have field game (quail and dove) and even wild boar. And think why I will go with seven.
quote: You can come to the community and take a "SEASON" for a birdYou will have to visit too many societies. Considering that I hunt pheasants, hare, and quail on farms that are three hundred kilometers away from each other in space and a month in time.
quote: Do not think that all of Russia hunts according to the laws of the RostovHaving visited the Ust-Kubensky region, I can say that according to the laws of the Vologda region, she definitely does not hunt.
You did not answer how to shoot a nine on a deadlift if all numbers except 7 and 3 are discontinued.
Pulver 23-10-2009 20:06
Stop!
StarnaK 23-10-2009 20:11
quote: Stop!
Fine.
Went home. There is no internet at home.
Taras.K 21-03-2010 22:50
I use only three different shot numbers for bird hunting.
Fraction number 12 - quail, snipe, woodcock, partridge
Equipment - 1.3 grams of PEX2 gunpowder (if you don’t have anything else, then falcon 1.5 grams but rex is much better), 2 cardboard wads, 28 grams. snipe, that is, shot number 12, cardboard wad, wax. I advise everyone to try the recipe, you will be very pleased, this is the only cartridge that works flawlessly on all guns and guns without exception. Proven for years, unparalleled results.
Shot number 7 - partridge, pheasant, duck (in the right barrel and in flight), low-breathing pigeon
Equipment - 1.5 grams of PEX2 gunpowder, container, 30 sometimes 32 grams of shot. But mostly I don’t worry, I just buy 32 grams of RIO.
Fraction number 5 - duck (left barrel), pigeon at long distances (long does not mean 90 meters :-)). I buy RIO 34 gr. If I charge it, it’s only a container-free one for ducks’ evening flights.
I don’t believe in shooting with larger numbers at a distance of 60 meters or more, since I haven’t shot myself and my friends don’t shoot :-) We don’t practice goose, so for everything else even 5s is too much.
Sincerely, Taras
StarnaK 22-03-2010 10:36
quote: Fraction number 12
Where do you get it?
SlavaB 22-03-2010 13:07
To us in the Urals:
8.7 - hazel grouse, woodcock
5.4 - white hare.
3,2,1 capercaillie
5.6 - duck
Question: for some reason everyone shoots a hare from 3 to 0, a hare apparently or something, we only have white hare, so in the beginning of autumn 5, at the end of autumn 4, in winter 3
dark strange 22-03-2010 13:51
quote: Question: for some reason everyone shoots a hare from 3 to 0, a brown hare apparently or something, we only have white hare, so in early autumn 5, at the end of autumn 4, in winter 3
SlavaB 22-03-2010 16:19
quote: Originally posted by dark strange:And N0000 flies. Our hare is large and does not always rise from under our feet. I realized there was shooting in the forest at white hare no further than 40m. The forest won't allow you to go far. I'm right?
Well, yes, you’re right, 20-30 meters, you won’t see further.
dark strange 22-03-2010 16:30
quote: Well, yes, you’re right, 20-30 meters, you won’t see further.
It's clear. Last week our gamekeepers released two white hare for breeding. I have a feeling they're going to get beat on the greens. I hope they will survive until August and produce offspring. In August, some m.... begin to ride through the greens.
StarnaK 23-03-2010 17:52
What are greens? If it's not difficult of course.
In terms of meaning, I thought it was winter: however, you can’t ride on it in August.
Mityaich 24-03-2010 21:12
Yes, we talked quite a bit
And I put N9 dispersant on woodshep
Another roll N7 (for spring and for dishes)
N5 is (duck).
Previously, for lack of a 5, I hit duck N3 in the fall.
ArtEg 20-07-2010 09:28
Taras, of course, burns, number 12 woodcock, partridge may be good for quail, but these are unlikely. I myself use no smaller than N9 from under the dog, that’s it, that is (quail, corncrake, snipe, humpback, great snipe, woodcock) I would also complement the turtledove, but on gray partridge, chukar N8-7 is still preferable
skitskit 16-12-2010 12:53
Here StarnaK doubted about hunting - “what will take off”...???
IN Samara region it is there... the duck and partridge are not yet closed, but the hare is already open... My set then... 5/3 in a two-piece. And for a partridge it’s still nothing, and for a hare up to 40 meters (N3) (at 70-90 meters, as some here advise using 00-0000, I don’t shoot at all) is quite adequate.
1) Quail, corncrake, partridge, pigeon.... 9-7...
2) ducks (from teal to mallard) - favorite 6, but 8,7 and 5 are also quite adequate
3) Hare from 3 to 0 (zero only in self-loading, self-loading cartridge 41 grams of shot) usually at the beginning of the season, when partridges and ducks come across 3, then 1.
4) Goose is only 0 (that same favorite cartridge), although friends use 3 to 00 with some success.
5) Roe deer-wolf (if not rifled) 7.15mm --- shot well. And 5.5 is quite...