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Remove the chuck from the impact drill cone. How to remove a chuck from a drill: video, how to change a quick-release chuck, disassemble and replace it, Interskol and Morse with a cone. There are two main types of drill clamps

Quick-release and keyed


Any craftsman who has a drill on his farm may encounter a situation where the drill chuck begins to hit (the center is lost) and the drill moves from side to side, as a result of which normal operation it won't work. Or the chuck's jaws are simply worn out, which can happen over time.
In this case, the cartridge should be replaced with a new one. How to choose it correctly?

There are several types of drill chucks. There are threaded ones, some are on a cone, which are simply pushed on and not screwed on. Let's consider them in more detail so as not to make a mistake when choosing.

Threaded chuck.

On thread


It is put on the drill by screwing it onto a threaded pin, which is located on the drill.
There are two main types of threaded chuck. They differ in thread types.
They are marked (1.5-13 M12*1.25) and (1.5-13 1/2 - 20 UNF)


The numbers 1.5-13 indicate the maximum and minimum diameter of the drill shank that can be clamped into the chuck. The minimum is 1.5mm, the maximum is 13mm, 13.5 is also included, I checked it personally. On some chucks the minimum clamping diameter is 2mm.
M12 – means that the hole at the bottom is 12mm.
1.25 or 1/2 - 20 UNF is different types threads, the first is metric, the second is inch.

Choose correctly, the cartridges are not interchangeable, if there is a marking on the cartridge M12*1.25, then take that one. If M12*1/2 – 20 UNF – then only this one. If the inscription is erased, you will have to remove the cartridge from the drill and take it with you to the store.

How to remove it?
To do this, twist the cartridge counterclockwise. Sometimes the cartridge is additionally secured with a screw, which is located in the center,


this screw has a left-hand thread, i.e. unscrews clockwise, and not as usual - counterclockwise. First, unscrew the chuck (spread the jaws), then tighten the screw. After this, you can twist the cartridge itself counterclockwise; its thread is standard. It happens that this is very difficult to do, since over time it is very delayed. To remove, you can use it to grab it tightly, for example, take number two. You can use the help of a friend: one holds the neck of the drill with one key, the second twists the cartridge itself with another key. Especially if the drill is old, it’s a little difficult without an assistant.

Cartridge on a cone.


They are put on by simple push-on. There are also several varieties: B10, B12, B16, B18. If there is a letter “B” in the marking on the cartridge, know that it is on a cone and there is no thread at the bottom.
The number in the cartridge marking indicates the diameter of the hole at the bottom. The larger it is, the larger the hole. In chucks B10, B12 you can clamp a drill with a maximum shank of 13mm. And B16, B18 allow you to clamp drills with a shank up to 16mm.
Such a cartridge should be removed by knocking it out of the drill, simply and simply using a hammer.
It is mounted on a special pin - a holder located on the drill.

There are cartridges with key, has quick-release fasteners(in the first photo).
The advantages of quick clamping include the fact that it is convenient to quickly change drills. The downside is that sometimes drills can turn, especially if the shank is cylindrical (round) and not hexagonal, especially when the drill for metal is of large diameter. The load is large, but you can’t tighten it by hand, which can’t be said about the “classic” cartridges, which are tightened with a key. In my opinion, this is much more reliable. The only negative is that you can lose the key, for this it is logical to screw it onto the drill cable with electrical tape so that it is always in its place.

There are chucks with a 1/4" hex shank that can clamp drills from 0.6mm.

You have to remove the chuck from the electric drill to clean or replace it. The dismantling process itself is simple, and sometimes difficulties that arise can be solved. Our guide clearly shows how to properly remove the chuck from a drill with your own hands.

Methods for attaching cartridges

Hand drills use two types of drill chuck mounting:

  1. Morse taper - a conical shaft shank and a corresponding hole in the chuck.
  2. Threaded fastening - a thread on a shaft onto which the cartridge is screwed like a nut.

Take a close look at the metal rod between the body and the cartridge. In the case of a threaded fit, the slots for the open-end wrench are usually visible, and the tapered shaft is always smooth.

The method of fastening is also indicated by the markings stamped on the cartridge:

  1. The Morse cone is designated by the abbreviation B10, B12, etc. (B - cone, number - maximum size drills).
  2. The marking of the threaded cartridge contains a designation of the type and diameter of the thread: M13 (metric by 13 mm) or UNF-1/2 (inch by half inch).

Removing the threaded cartridge

For drills with reverse function drill chuck additionally secured with a locking screw visible through the open cams.

The slots on the screw head can be cross-shaped, hexagonal or even star-shaped. Prepare the required screwdriver, wrench or bit. Use a tool with complete splines that fit exactly.

Measure the size of the wrench space on the drill shaft. Most likely, it will be 14 mm for a mid-range tool or 17 mm for a more powerful device.

Prepare an open-end wrench with thin jaws. You can take a suitable one from a bicycle repair kit or grind off the edges of a regular key using sandpaper.

Hold the drill shaft with a wrench and try using a screwdriver to unscrew the screw clockwise (left-hand thread).

Try not to tear off the splines.

If the thread does not work, secure the electric drill chuck in a vice and hit the screw head several times with a hammer through a steel rod.

Now the thread will become more pliable and the screw will come loose.

Difficulties may arise. Try increasing the leverage by holding a hex wrench in the chuck.

As a last resort, use a vice, placing a drill in it as in the photo below.

Move the cartridge from its place by striking the driver secured through the square head.

This method makes it possible to unscrew fairly strongly stuck cartridges.

After cleaning, reinstall the chuck in reverse order, keeping in mind the different thread directions.

Apply a little paint to the threads before tightening the locking screw.

Specifics of cone fastening

In modern hand-held electric drills, the Morse taper is rarely found. Such models are equipped with special pullers, and the dismantling process is displayed in the technical description.

In old Soviet drills, the design of the gearbox made it possible to remove the chuck using rather crude methods. One could try to separate the conical surfaces with a wedge-shaped object, lightly knocking it from different sides.

Another option was to take the drill with one hand with the chuck facing down, and with the other to apply light blows to the end with a hammer. If that didn’t help, we lubricated the landing site with a penetrating compound (kerosene or WD-40), let it sit for several hours, and tried to knock the cartridge off again.

This method can be used if the shaft bearing is installed inside the housing. For most drills used today, this method is unacceptable, as it can lead to damage to the bearings or gearbox.

When selecting a new chuck, pay attention to the type of fastening, bore diameter and the ability to operate in impact mode, if your drill has this option.

In the tools of any home handyman a drill must be present. True, sometimes it becomes necessary to remove the cartridge from it. As a rule, this problem occurs when the device breaks down.

Any craftsman who understands at least a little technology can complete this task. But for a person who has never encountered this, it can become a big problem. To easily remove a part from a drill, you first need to study the principles of its fastening, and only then proceed to replacement.

  • Quick-clamping types;
  • Collet SDS devices;
  • Cam types.

With quick-release elements, you can change a bit or drill in seconds, without using any additional tools. They are divided into single and double coupling types.

In the latter option, to attach the drill, you have to hold the coupling with one hand and screw the other with the other. IN single socket cartridges There is a shaft locking system that is activated when replacing equipment. The disadvantage of such products is low fixation strength drills In addition, the use of plastic parts significantly increases the risk of damage to the cartridge.

It is better to use jaw chucks on impact drills and rotary hammers. They are stronger, so they are often used to work in difficult conditions. In such products, plastic elements are not installed, and the equipment is fastened with a special key.

There are also collet SDS chucks that were created in the 70s of the last century. The shank of this design contains two grooves, the size of which is 10 mm.

In this system, part of the drill has to be screwed into the chuck by 40 mm. It is fixed with locking balls. In addition, in the design there are 4 grooves, 2 of them are fixing, and the rest are used for guide wedges. The spindle of a device equipped with this design is automatically locked immediately after installation.

Mounting methods

In any drilling tool, the chuck is fixed on the shaft in two ways: on a cone and using a threaded fastener.

In the latter version, there is an inch or metric thread on the internal channel and shaft of the drill. In such a situation during repairs, many often have the question of how to change the chuck for a drill. You can find out the type of thread and its characteristics on the body. For example, if 1-15M13x1.3 is stamped, it means:

  • M13 - metric thread diameter;
  • 1.3 - its pitch;
  • 1 and 15 - maximum and minimum size drill shank.

When inch threads are used, the designation UNF is marked. Therefore, before changing the product, you need to check whether the mounting dimensions correspond to the markings. Nowadays, almost all drills have inch threads.

To ensure a strong connection, a locking screw is mounted on the shaft inside the device. It has a left-hand thread, in other words, it should be unscrewed clockwise.

Another fixation option involves application of Morse cone. The end of the motor shaft is made in the form of a cone. The same conical part also has internal channel. Install the cartridge onto the shaft cone. These elements are marked as B 10, B 12, B 16, and also B 18. This method is especially popular in screwdrivers.

To remove it you will need a screwdriver. It turns out the screw screwed into the tool spindle and installed inside the product. After which it twists off the spindle. As mentioned above, the internal screw has a left-hand thread, therefore it rotates clockwise. True, the cartridge is unscrewed counterclockwise, since, on the contrary, it has a right-hand thread.

If the screw does not want to come out, tap it through a screwdriver with a hammer. There should be no difficulties with the cartridge; it unscrews easily. Although if difficulties arise, you can use open-end wrenches and gas wrenches. Attach the spindle to the drill first, and grip the chuck last.

In addition, when the chuck has functioning clamping jaws, a thicker hexagon can be installed to turn it out. You also need to secure the spindle using an open-end wrench. Most modern battery-powered drills do not require any additional attachments to mount the drill. However, changing the cartridge for them is very difficult.

When this does not help to remove it, the tool body is disassembled. Thus, it is possible to reach the spindle, since it is hidden when assembled. Then everything is put back together, but without using keys.

What to do if the internal screw is damaged during the replacement process? In this situation, it is better to purchase an adapter for a chuck for a cam-type hammer drill, since it comes with a screw.

How to replace a cone specimen?

There should not be any difficulties when removing the element mounted on the shaft cone. You can use a special tool that is used to replace bearings.

But the easiest way is to place the tool vertically, with the drill pointing down. Then you need to gently tap the entire surface with a hammer until the cartridge is disengaged. If necessary, it is polished. The new part is inserted with light blows from above.

Changing the drill bit in a drill

Often, due to excessive load or improper fastening, the drill can jam the cartridge, in the usual way it will no longer be possible to get it. What to do in this case? First try just cooling the part. Quite often this is enough to relax the cams and pull out the drill.

You can go another way. Tapping on the cams will help release jammed equipment. To do this, secure the free edge of the drill in a vice and apply wooden strip to the chuck. It is through this that the tapping is performed. Vibration will loosen the grip of the chuck, and the drill can be easily removed. Moreover, this method is suitable for owners of quick-release and classic fasteners.

But sometimes it is impossible to remove a tool without using lubricant. In particular difficult situations, the problem can be solved only after immersing the cartridge in vegetable or machine oil. It is necessary to keep the product in the liquid for about an hour. If you combine methods, you will be able to remove a stuck drill much faster.

The drill chuck can be represented by several types, which differ markedly in design and design features. It is quite possible to quickly replace such a part of an electric drill with your own hands, but you need to know the basic rules for performing such work.

Drill chuck: device and types

A significant part of drill models are equipped with so-called cam devices. This option is a hollow cylindrical body, on the surface of which there is a movable part in the form of a ring or control sleeve. One cylinder base is attached to the drill shaft. The second base is used to fix the attachments. The process of rotation of the adjusting ring causes the movement of cams made of metal. The approach and distance of such cams depends on the direction of the annular rotation.

To secure it to the shaft, the housing is equipped with a special convenient threaded hole or has a special conical surface. There are also types of cartridges that are best suited for equipping specially designed rotary hammer models. It is quite possible to remove and change it yourself. Cam-type drill chucks allow you to secure the attachment and shank within standard limits of 0.8-10 mm and 1.5-13 mm.

In order to ensure maximum security during fastening, it is very important to tighten the cartridge with significant force. Cam chucks can be:

  • “regular”, represented by “key” or “gear” options;
  • “quick-clamping” or bzp cartridge.

To tighten or loosen the adjustment ring on a “regular” device, you will need to use a special wrench.

Characteristics of the drill keyless chuck

Tightening and loosening will require the use of a special metal sleeve that is knurled or grooved. Quite often, a plastic sleeve with ribs is used for this purpose.

The main difference of this element is the absence of a clamping key and the use of an outer shell that allows clamping of the drill lips. Most often, the use of BZP is accompanied by the following problems and difficulties:

  • insufficient quality of drill clamping;
  • lack of sufficient resistance to dust;
  • breakdown of the clamping mechanism.

Drill chucks: varieties (video)

If the model of a mini drill or screwdriver is equipped with a special type of lock, then it is necessary to use a single-socket clamping element. On tools without a blocker, a two-clutch element or a mini-chuck is used. As a rule, the body of such a device is made of plastic, and a steel alloy is used to make the mechanism and cams.

Any option self-execution repair work requires knowledge of the device and main components:

  • cone-shaped gripping lips;
  • inner part with lips;
  • external clamping part.

If necessary, each individual element of such a device can be replaced, for which it is necessary to disassemble the device correctly.

How to remove and disassemble an electric drill chuck

Even small, minor repairs will require proper disassembly of the structure. Today, there are only two mounting mechanisms on the working shaft, so the process of dismantling work may vary.

With the threaded fastening method, the structure must be disassembled in the following order:

  • deepen the cams inside the body and spread them as far apart as possible;
  • Unscrew the fixing screw located in the central bottom part of the device. Fasteners with left-hand threads must be turned clockwise;
  • Using an open-end wrench placed on the shaft, the device is unscrewed.

If there are no flats, the housing is disassembled, as well as the rotor shaft is subsequently fixed in a vice. It is advisable to unscrew the element using a gas wrench.

The most popular and frequently used in modern instruments is the cone connection. In addition to the exceptional strength of the cone connection, this option, with the right approach, can be quite easily disconnected on its own. To this end The body is first tapped in a circle, after which the element is knocked off the shaft using a sharp and precise blow to the rear of the shaft.

After the cartridge is removed, it is necessary to correctly determine the type of malfunction. You can carry out repairs yourself if there is no significant damage to parts or jamming. caused by metal shavings trapped inside adjacent parts. As a rule, restoring functionality in the event of such a breakdown can be achieved by washing the elements in oil or kerosene using a soft, medium-sized brush. After this cleaning method, assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

Most often, owners of actively used tools are faced with a number of malfunctions caused by wear and damage to threaded or toothed parts. Minor local damage of this type can be easily eliminated by grinding. For this purpose, it is recommended to use a needle file or a standard sanding cloth. In the most complex cases of breakdowns, it is most often necessary complete replacement failed cartridge.

How to remove a chuck from a drill (video)

For dismantling and disassembling the chuck of an electric drill you need to prepare a set of tools presented:

  • vice;
  • pliers;
  • screwdriver;
  • hammer;
  • small mallet;
  • chisel;
  • needle file and sandpaper;
  • a brush with soft bristles and an oiler;
  • a set of gas keys;
  • adjustable wrench;
  • awl;
  • file;
  • caliper.

The basic version of the tool set may vary slightly depending on the type of connection and the complexity of the dismantling work performed. Excessive force should not be used since in this case not only the external, but also the internal working part of the device can be irreparably damaged.

Replacing a drill chuck with your own hands

There are several most common problems that can be observed during the operation of the tool, and will require cartridge replacement:

  • quite often a fixed element falls. This problem occurs not only on old tools, but also on completely new models, which are characterized by a conical fastening of the cam part. As a rule, the fall of a part accompanies the process of drilling deep holes. In this case, when lifting the drill and freeing it from accumulated chips, the cartridge falls off the cone. This problem can be solved by increasing the tension of the cone joint. For this purpose, you need to heat the cartridge in oil to a temperature of 110 o C, and then place it on the fixing part of the cold tool;

  • If, when performing work that is accompanied by the release of a significant amount of dust, chips or dirt, the clamping lips jam, then you need to properly disassemble the chuck, and then carefully, but as thoroughly as possible, clean and rinse all moving, working elements. Before assembling the part, it is very important to lubricate the internal parts with a brush and lithol. A good result is obtained by using a homemade protective casing that prevents clogging of the working parts;
  • If chuck runout is observed during drilling, the cause may be significant wear on the seat cone. An equally common cause of this phenomenon can be uneven wear of the cams, which must be replaced. If necessary, the broken cartridge is completely replaced.

Reassembling the disassembled part is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly, observing the rules for fastening to the tool.

How to change the chuck in a drill with your own hands (video)

The chuck is one of the main components of the electric drill mechanism, so the performance of the tool and the quality of the work performed will depend on its condition. It is quite possible to replace such a device yourself even without the skills and special knowledge, but in this case you need to correctly determine the cause of the breakdown and follow the standard instructions for repair work.

For greater functionality, drills and screwdrivers are now equipped with a chuck. This device will allow you to clamp any tool that has a cylindrical or faceted shank, no matter whether it is a drill or a screwdriver bit. The most commonly used are three-jaw self-centering chucks.

But like any mechanical device, the jaw chuck can fail, and sometimes a situation arises when the chuck needs to be replaced to install other equipment. This situation often occurs when using a hammer drill as a drill or when working with miniature drills, the shanks of which cannot be clamped with a conventional chuck.

In our article we will describe how the chuck is secured to the working shaft of the tool and how to properly dismantle it.

There are three main types of fixing the chuck on the shaft:

1. Morse taper, is marked with the letter “B” with a number indicating its size. IN lately It is found only in machine-building production, but, nevertheless, it is a fairly reliable method of fixation.

2. Threaded fastening. Marked with a thread designation in inches or metric units indicating the dimension. The thread is directed towards reverse side from the direction of rotation, this avoids loosening and twisting during operation.

Marking on the cartridge. The letter Z is on the top ring and the dimension, in inches, is on the central one.

Most often in household tools, it is the threaded assembly with an additional screw fastening that is found, this is due to the sufficient reliability and simplicity of the design of these devices. In addition, such a cartridge is much easier to remove at home.

It should be noted separately that quick-release clamping devices have become widespread in recent years. Typically, this type of device is installed on universal impact drills and rotary hammers. For quick tool changes. In this case, the cartridge is combined with a spline-type shaft fixation device.

Removing the chuck from the drill

First of all, let's look at the quick-release chuck. To remove this device, simply clamp the upper ring of the clamping device and turn the lower ring until it clicks. Typically the rotation limits are shown on the chuck itself.

As can be seen in the photo, a cotter-type clamping device is installed on the drill to secure the drill. Below is a three-jaw chuck prepared for replacement.

Having fixed the upper ring with the marking, forcefully turn the lower ring with the line until the removed device is marked. After which the device is easily removed in the direction of the shaft axis. The jaw chuck is initially set to the open position. If not, then just turn the lower part in relation to the upper ring until it clicks.

We put the chuck on the shaft, clamp the upper ring and scroll the lower part until it clicks, the chuck is fixed on the shaft and is ready for use.

The photo clearly shows the boundary between the quick-release device and the cartridge itself. In order to remove the cartridge itself, we need a screwdriver or hex key.

Here you can see the chuck jaws lowered to the extreme position. And at the very bottom of the socket you can see an axial screw for a slotted screwdriver. This screw will need to be unscrewed in order to remove the clamping chuck fixed on the shaft.
Here, for example, is a cartridge rigidly fixed on the shaft

In this case, you will need a Phillips screwdriver to remove it.
It should be noted that hexagon screws are also often found.

Removing a threaded cartridge with a reverse screw

In order to remove the cartridge from the axle, we first need to unscrew the central screw. In order to gain access to it, you need to push the cams all the way. Then insert a wrench or screwdriver inside and “pull” it off with a sharp movement. The screw thread is left-handed. The screw itself is filled with sealant and is very difficult to turn.

In addition, it should be noted that in the work it is worth using a high-quality tool. When working with a Chinese screwdriver, the slot simply broke off. At the same time, the screw itself remained in the untouched position. Only a blow to the screw helped, after which the head moved and the process began. After unscrewing the screw, you need to remove the cartridge body itself.

Then you need to unscrew the cartridge itself from the thread. In this case, the thread is right-handed, opposite to the screw. It is very difficult to break the thread, as it “sticks” during operation. A significant amount of effort is required, but the process can be sped up.

In this case, you can use a hex key clamped in the chuck. This will allow you to lengthen the lever, and if there is a “reverse”, use the tool itself. To use the tool, you either need to hold the hexagon in a vice and turn it on, or hit it on the table while rotating at low speeds.

Removing a Morse Taper Chuck

In this case, you will need a drift and a hammer. As a drift, you can use a U-shaped puller with wedge-shaped arms. It must be installed so that the axis of the cone passes between the paws, and then carefully drive it between the chuck and the drill. When going inside, the puller should squeeze the cartridge out of the cone.

The photo shows three-jaw chucks different types and Morse cones of several sizes.

As a puller, you can use an open-end wrench or any other device that allows you to influence the cartridge in the axial direction.

It is worth noting that all actions to dismantle cartridges, especially with a Morse taper, should be carried out extremely carefully. Since excessive haste can lead to damage to the drill body or injury.

Installing the chuck

Installation is carried out in reverse order. In the case of threaded fixation, you first need to screw the cartridge body onto the thread. Then tighten the control screw. Before doing this, it is advisable to drip a little sealant onto it. For additional fixation.

Installation chuck on a Morse cone, simple and uncomplicated.

You need to insert the cone into the socket and hit it sharply. After insertion, check the fixation. In the future, during operation, the cone will settle even more.