How to plant eggplant seedlings in a greenhouse. Growing eggplants in a greenhouse: care, watering and formation of bushes. Prices for dolomite flour

May is the month when grapes begin to actively grow. It is during this period that one can see how the bushes overwintered and what potential can be laid for obtaining good harvest in the future. I will tell you about the activities that are necessary to care for grapes this month. First of all, this is the removal of excess shoots, the first treatment against diseases and fertilizing.

Chunks of green shoots in May

The shoots in the vineyard are growing... and the time has come to carry out one of the very important activities - green operations to normalize the grape bush.

After autumn pruning of grapes, as a rule, an additional number of eyes are left to avoid loss due to freezing. After the buds open, it is necessary to remove excess green shoots when they reach a size of 5–10 cm, usually at the beginning of May. They can be easily broken off by hand without the use of pruners. In general, this is creative work and the approach to each case must be individual.

Why is normalization needed?

By carrying out green operations at this stage, we normalize the total load on the bush, which will allow us to achieve maximum results. That is, if such a bush is left without debris and the entire shoot is allowed to develop, then the result will be a suppressed, low-yielding bush.

How many shoots to leave on adult bushes

Depending on the vigor of growth of the bush and its productivity, usually about 25 strong fruit-bearing shoots are left for a single-plane trellis and 45 for a double-plane trellis. It is determined this way: for 1 linear meter of fruiting vine, 8–12 shoots are left, that is, if you have a single-plane trellis and the bushes are planted every 2 m, then you should leave from 16 to 24 shoots on this bush.

The fragmentation must be carried out gradually, reducing the number of shoots to the desired number. First of all, those growing from perennial wood are removed, then weak, sterile and twins.

You can leave one shoot at the bottom of the sleeve, which “looks” outside the bush, to form a replacement knot.

A fruitless escape determined by the presence of a tendril at the end instead of a cluster ovary. He will pull vitality, but it will not give any result. As a rule, only sterile ones grow from the first buds of most varieties.

Doubles- these are several growing shoots from one bud. We break off leaving only one, which is more developed or more conveniently located on the vine. However, there are exceptions. Let's say the bush overwintered poorly and the number of blossoming buds is not large - in this case, you can leave doubles.

Next, we remove weak shoots and those that are inconveniently located. Sometimes it happens that there are several relatively strong ones on a bush, and it’s impossible to decide which one to remove. In this case, I recommend waiting another week and, around mid-May, it will become clearer which of them has more vital energy.

How to break off shoots on a young bush

A bush is considered young if it has not yet entered the phase of full fruiting and is not able to bear a decent load of harvest. Such a bush requires no less care than an adult plant.

For example, you have a two-year-old grape seedling with two shoots from last year, each with 8–10 buds. By planting it in a permanent place and without carrying out green operations, you will ultimately end up with a hedgehog-shaped grape bush with a large number of weak shoots - this is unacceptable.

When growing grapes, you just need to follow a simple rule: increase the number of shoots by 2 times every year. That is, the task of the first year is to grow one powerful one. In the second year we leave 2, in the third - 4, and so on until the bush gains enough strength to bear the load. However, there are exceptions when the variety is vigorous and you see that it is able to develop faster. In this case, you can increase the number of shoots left.

An example of the formation of a young bush

As an example, I will show a grape bush in the third year of the growing season.

6 eyes were left, which all bloomed safely after wintering. At the time of the operations it was May 7 and my task was to remove 2 extra shoots, leaving 4 that are necessary for a four-arm fan formation on a two-plane trellis.

First treatment against diseases and pests in May

Many beginning winegrowers have heard many times about preventive treatments in the vineyard throughout the season, however, they still begin to take any action precisely during the outbreak of disease. Of course, this is everyone’s business, but in the current realities, diseases are constantly progressing and it is becoming more and more difficult to fight them.

First treatment must be carried out when shoots reach a size of 10–15 cm, as a rule, this occurs at the beginning of May, but no later than the beginning of flowering. Flowering of most table grape varieties in the south of Ukraine occurs around May 25. So, you have removed excess shoots and it is time to protect the plant from diseases and pests. Primarily against mildew, oidium and spider mites.

Systemic medications do an excellent job of this task, in my case Horus. It acts against mildew and oidium. We prepare a tank mixture by adding a tick medicine, it can be Sunmite, as well as Plantafol 30:10:10 s high content nitrogen for fertilizing. Plantafol enhances the effect of drugs due to better adhesion. Besides this, feeding grapes improves plant immunity and reduces the likelihood of disease.

First garter of grapes in May

The middle of May is approaching and our shoots have reached a size of more than 30 cm in length, and it became possible to tie them to a second wire. Why is this being done? First of all, it is the first garter that sets the further formation and correct growth of all shoots, and also prevents possible breaking off under the influence of own weight and wind.

Proper placement of shoots on the trellis promotes uniform development of the bush and good lighting, which in turn is the key to a good harvest.

When tying green shoots, vertical polarity must be observed.

If some of the “green stuff” has not yet reached the wire and there is no way to tie it up, then you should wait a little and this operation again at the end of May.

How to care for grapes and reap a decent harvest, despite the capricious climate, imperfect soil and aggressive diseases?

The task is not easy, but real. After all, on your side is the experience of winegrowers who have walked this path before you. Feeding, garter, treatment for diseases and pests, pruning, pinching, cuttings. We have prepared for you a calendar of main work in the vineyard.

March

At the beginning of the month, weather permitting, begin pruning uncovered grape varieties. It is important to finish it before the buds on the bushes begin to swell. If you linger, active sap flow will begin. Then pruning can lead to “crying of the vine” and drying out of the bush.

Pruning, breaking off and pinching shoots, as well as pinching are mandatory procedures for the formation of a grape bush

If you are unlucky and the plant “cries,” you can lubricate the cut oil paint on natural drying oil with the addition boric acid or use ready-made preparations, for example, “Artificial bark”.

Also in March you can start updating the trellises, because... in subsequent months, winegrowers usually have much more trouble.

Caring for grapes in April

It's time to pay close attention to the thermometer and weather forecast. If frosts down to -10°C are not expected, then it’s time to free the grapes from their winter shelter and check how the plants survived the winter. If you find mold, do not immediately run for disinfectants and medicinal drugs. Most likely, it will disappear as soon as the bush dries out and is ventilated.

But preventive spring spraying of grapes special drugs – prerequisite to get a good harvest. Both the plants themselves and the soil around the bushes are treated.

As soon as the air temperature rises to 4-6°C, carry out the first preventive spraying of the bushes with a 3% solution copper sulfate. This will help protect the vines from diseases and rodents.

In the second half of April, after the buds swell, you need to tie the sleeves of the grapes at an angle, and the fruit shoots horizontally. In order for grapes to develop correctly, they need reliable support, which is most often served by trellises. In addition to their main function, they provide access to light and air to the leaves of the plant, and can also decorate your site, masking unsightly elements of the landscape and architecture. Trellis are easy to make with your own hands.

Immediately after the buds swell, you can plant cuttings prepared in the fall. This will allow you to get bunches of different varieties from one bush, save space in the garden, and also increase the winter hardiness of plants.

IN southern regions from the end of April you can begin to plant rooted grape cuttings. When choosing a site, it is important to consider that this is not only a heat-loving plant, but also a light-loving plant. Bushes should receive maximum quantity sunlight from early morning until three o'clock in the afternoon. Therefore, it’s great if you have the opportunity to plant grapes on a southern or southwestern slope protected from the wind.

The grapes have a powerful root system, so their neighbors will not be happy. It is better to place it no closer than 4 m from other trees and shrubs

Grape care May

When the young shoots of the grapes outgrow the first tier of wire, it is necessary to make another garter. At the same time, you must not forget to remove the stepsons and excess upper inflorescences, as well as break off the grape shoots, removing all weak and overgrown shoots (when they reach 10-15 cm). To do this, press your finger on the bases of unnecessary branches, easily getting rid of them.

These shoots can be used for cutting green cuttings, from which strong seedlings will grow by autumn.

IN last month In spring, characteristic red spots sometimes appear on grape leaves. The usual cause is non-infectious or infectious rubella. In the first case, the plant simply signals you about a potassium deficiency in the soil. The entire bush is covered with spots, and the veins of the leaves become thicker. Over time, the vine may well die. Therefore, at the first signs of non-infectious rubella, it is necessary to change agricultural practices. You can start spraying plants with potassium nitrate (dissolve 20-25 g of dry fertilizer in 10 liters of water and use no more than 1 liter of composition per sq.m.).

To combat non-infectious rubella, it is usually necessary to carry out no more than five treatments of the vineyard every eight days

The causative agent of infectious rubella is a marsupial fungus. It attacks the vine in stages, so red spots gradually appear here and there. The leaves of a diseased plant must be treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture or 0.3% copper oxychloride solution. It is important that the fungicide gets on both sides of the leaf.

In spring, grapevines are quite vulnerable to fungal diseases, so it is important to treat the bushes with fungicides in advance - before the flowers appear. Most often, grapes are affected by oidium (powdery mildew) and mildew (downy mildew). In the first case, colloidal sulfur or the complex drug Quadris will help fight the disease. Downy mildew can be controlled by using Azophos.

Caring for grapes in summer

June

At this time, the bush grows green mass and becomes heavier. It is necessary to regularly tie it to the trellis, pinching it and removing excess clusters to prevent shoots from breaking off.

Our help! Usually the top clusters on the shoots are removed, because they develop less well, and the berries on them are usually smaller than on others.

When the berries reach the size of a small pea, you can treat the plants with Ridomil Gold or Topaz (according to the instructions).

In summer, you can also carry out foliar feeding (by leaves). For better formation of ovaries, you can use phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, the drug Ovary or other similar products.

You shouldn’t get too carried away with watering; grapes don’t like it. In most areas, it is enough to moisten the soil once or twice a month, but generously so that the water certainly reaches the roots of the plant.

Our help! It is not advisable to water the grapes during flowering and shortly before it begins.

This month it is necessary to treat the grapes with antifungal drugs (for example, Flint Star or Quadris), and then feed them with fertilizers containing an NPK complex (Aquarin, Novofert, Plantafol, etc. are suitable).

If early varieties of grapes (ripening dates) grow on your site, then at the end of July you can already expect the first harvest.

Caring for grapes in August

From this month the mass ripening of grapes begins. But it’s too early to forget about caring for the vines. In the last month of summer, the bushes should be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. The same can be done if in hot weather the plants do not have enough moisture (5-10 g of fertilizer should be dissolved in 10 liters of water). In this case, it is advisable not to use fertilizers containing nitrogen, otherwise, instead of starting to prepare for winter, the plants will continue to grow green mass.

August is the time for tapping vines (removing the tops of all shoots with 6-8 upper leaves), this procedure helps the plants prepare for winter.

In the last summer month Some diseases may also become active. If you notice brown spots and a gray coating on the leaves, as well as discolored spots on the vine, your plants are likely victims of gray rot. To combat it, you can spray the bushes with a solution of potassium permanganate (5-7 g per 10 liters of water). If a light coating appears on the leaves and clusters, there is a high probability that the vines are affected by oidium. In this case, the bushes that still have grapes are treated with colloidal sulfur, and complex preparations are used on the rest (Flint Star or Strobi - according to the instructions). From folk remedies Treating grapes with ash infusion (1 kg of ash per 10 liters of water, leave for 2-3 days, stirring occasionally) is considered a fairly effective and safe method.

September

The most pressing issue this month is harvesting.

If you see that not all the bunches have time to ripen before frost, remove the weakest of them, this will help the rest to ripen

At the beginning of autumn, fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is still relevant. But it is better to postpone the use of nitrogen fertilizers until spring.

Caring for grapes in October

The beginning of the month is the time for autumn planting of grape seedlings. For information on how to do this correctly, read our material Planting grapes in the fall: when and how to do it.

End of October – beginning of November – great time for autumn pruning of already growing grapes and cutting cuttings for winter rooting.

Old vines need help preparing for winter. A couple of weeks after the leaves fall, you should cut off all unripe parts of the shoots and dig up the soil under the bushes to prevent the spread of infectious diseases.

You can treat the plants with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate. This will help protect the grapes from fungal diseases. Some experienced winegrowers claim that, among other things, bushes treated with iron sulfate are less attractive to rodents.

Caring for grapes in November

Mature vines must be bent to the ground and sprinkled with peat or sawdust, or covered with spruce branches or spunbond. But before this, it is important to water the plants, because... Dehydrated grapes survive winter worse. It is also advisable to bend the shoots of uncovered varieties to the ground, and mulch the soil under the bushes.

In December, you can finally relax and enjoy the fruits of your labor. The only thing a dormant vineyard needs during the winter season is protection from frost. Therefore, if you are not sure that the vines are securely covered, you can throw fresh fluffy snow. But if at some point you get bored without the traditional hassle and care of green pets, you can always organize a small home garden. And in February, remember again about the grapes and start rooting the cuttings prepared in the fall at home.

Since grapes are a heat-loving plant, it is quite difficult to grow them in temperate latitudes. A capricious plant needs care all year round. Having a winegrower's calendar on hand for every day, you will know how to care for this crop throughout the entire summer season.

Calendar of work on the vineyard in the table, for 2019

Date of work	Signs of grape condition
	The melting of the snow, the beginning of the "crying vine", the awakening of the buds	Remove the winter cover and open the bushes; Dig up the heads of bushes buried for the winter; Treat the planting with a solution of iron sulfate (0.25-0.5 kg per 10 liters of liquid); Loosen the soil, form holes, and mulch them; Pull up and tie up the sleeves.
	The buds are starting to bloom	In the northern regions, the probability of return frosts is relevant until May 25; It is necessary to protect the bushes with a temporary polyethylene greenhouse.
	3-6 leaves appear, shoots begin to actively grow	Remove unnecessary shoots (those that do not have enough space); The shoots are tied to the trellises as they develop; They begin to fight diseases and pests by spraying the leaves: the drugs Ordan and Abiga Peak are used against Mildew; for Oidium: Topaz, Rayok, Difenoconazole; against rot: Horus; from aphids: Biotlin, Tanrek, Corado; Watering is carried out combined with fertilizing: half a liter of chicken manure infusion per 50 liters of water, used for 1 bush.
	The end of the period of return frosts	Start planting seedlings using a drill: it is recommended to pour a half-liter jar of wood ash into the hole; Young plantings are shaded to avoid burns; Water infrequently; They fight beetles and larvae with the help of drugs: Terradox, Grom 2, Provotox, Pochin.
	Flowering begins	It is not recommended to carry out any work in the vineyard; During heavy rains it is necessary to protect the inflorescences with shelter.
	The ovary is forming	Treatment against diseases using systemic fungicides: Strobi, Cabrio, Kvardis (1 year of plant life); Ridomil, Profit Gold, Fundazol (2 years and older); Pest treatment: Karbofos, Cypermethrin.
	“Pea” stage, active berry growth	We remove the antennae and stepsons; We form the future harvest: for large-fruited table varieties, remove 2-3 clusters on each shoot (the number of clusters should be no more than 1/2 the number of eyes on the shoot); We combine watering and fertilizing: 40 g of the drug Rost-1, with 2.5 g of Humate, with 20 g of Ammonium Nitrate with 15 g of Calimagnesia per 50 liters of liquid (use for watering 1 plant).
	Berries slow down their growth	Disease control: spray the leaves from below with Bordeaux mixture from Mildew; for Oidium: Thiovit, Jet; Extermination of pests: treated with Boric acid.
	Softening the berries	The next watering with fertilizing: 20 g Rost-1, 2.5 g Humate and 35 g Kalimagnesia per 40-50 liters of liquid for 1 bush; You can use organic matter as a top dressing: an infusion of chicken manure 0.25 liters per 20 liters of water, and an infusion of wood ash 1 liter per 20 liters of water. Do not mix infusions.
	The grapes begin to ripen	Protect the bunches from wasps using special mesh bags; Also, for protection, you can spray the grapes with a 10% soda solution; Treat the plants with ash infusion - this will make the berries sweeter.
	Crowns are straightened	The vine is minted and pinched; Remove old lower leaves to reduce the load on the shoots (the plant will spend more energy on clusters); Leaves that shade the clusters are removed. But if the air temperature reaches plus 33 degrees Celsius and above, it is better to leave the leaves.
	The grapes are ripening	Harvest; Garter of young bushes at an angle; Watering; Treatment against diseases and insects.
	Completion of harvest	Spraying the lower surface of the leaves: from Mildew (Abiga Peak, Ordan), from Oidium (Topaz, Skor, Rayok).
	The vine begins to ripen	Watering combined with fertilizing: 40 g of Growth-1, with 5 g of potassium sulfate, with 2.5 g of Humate per 40-50 liters of liquid for 1 plant; Or fertilizing with organic matter: infusion of bird droppings 0.5 liters per 20 liters of water, ash infusion 0.5 liters per 20 liters of water (do not mix infusions).
	Period of the first frost	Remove the vine along with the sleeves from the trellis; Carry out autumn pruning of grapes: remove all leaves, cut off gray areas of the vine; Plant the crop on next period: measure the diameter of the vine in mm at the base (near the sleeve), the number of eyes on the shoot should correspond to the number of millimeters, trim the rest; Leave no more than 3 eyes on replacement knots.
	Completion of vine ripening	Water-charging winter watering is carried out: 5-6 buckets of water for 1 plant; The vine is sprayed with a solution of iron sulfate (0.5 kg per 10 liters of liquid).
	Work until the first snow	Prepare the vineyard for wintering: tie the vines into fascines, pin them to the ground with wooden or plastic pins, and sprinkle them with pine needles; Dig the hole with soil along with the head of the bush; Cover the vineyard with cardboard and film to protect it from frost.

Winegrower's calendar for spring 2019

At the beginning of spring, uncovered grape varieties should be checked for cuts, cracks and breaks; sap may be released in these places. It is important not to let the vine “cry”; prune it in the first week of the month.

In March, sap flow has not yet begun, so no active work is required. This is a period of preparation for the next season.

If you are planning to expand your planting, now is the time to purchase new grape varieties. Start preparing the site:

Choose a well-lit area.
Prepare the trellises.
Be sure to check old supports and stock up on materials for repair or replacement.
In March, you need to stock up on fertilizers for the next season.

When the threat of frost has passed in April, you can remove the winter shelter from the bushes. If you find traces of mold on the vine, do not worry, it will disappear within a few days after opening.

At the beginning of the month, it is recommended to spray to prevent diseases; use 0.3 kg of Nitrafen per 10 liters of water.
If in the middle of the month the temperature remains above zero, you can start planting seedlings.
Before the buds have time to swell, dry tie the grapes: the sleeves are secured at an angle and the arrows are secured horizontally.

In May, it is necessary to constantly remove excess shoots for correct formation bush. It is necessary to leave the most developed arrows. All unnecessary side shoots are regularly broken off, stepsons and upper inflorescences are removed.

After the formation of five leaves on the sleeves, treatment with fungicides (Impact, Mikal, Vectra, Abiga-Pik, Strobi) should be carried out.
Examine the bushes for the presence of mites; if found, treat them with acaricides before flowering begins.
At the end of May, complete planting of seedlings.

Winegrower's calendar from A to Z for summer 2019

The first month of summer is the most important. In the first ten days of June, pinch out the shoots; this procedure will improve pollination of plants.

Regularly trim as the bushes grow.
After flowering, it is necessary to apply foliar feeding with Plantafol.
Do not overload the bush, remove unnecessary clusters (the upper ones are small, or more damaged).
When the berries begin to actively fill, treat the bunches with Gold or Topaz fungicides.
Moisten the soil regularly.

In July, the grapevine becomes vulnerable to fungal diseases. Spraying must be done every 3 weeks.

During the period of filling the berries, the bushes are fed with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium additives, and the young seedlings are fed with any mineral fertilizers.
Continue regular pinching and tying.
By the end of July you can get the first harvest of early varieties.

In August, it is necessary to remove nitrogen from fertilizers. Feed young bushes with phosphorus and potassium.

IN this period Generous watering is important. If the leaves wither during a hot day, it is necessary to increase watering.
At the end of August, the vines are minted (the tops of the shoots are removed at the level of 6-7 leaves from the top).
If you find brown spots or plaque on the leaves, spray against gray rot with potassium permanganate (5 g per 10-liter bucket of water).

Winegrower's calendar for autumn

In the first month of autumn it is necessary to continue the work of August. Monitor the load on the bushes: if necessary, remove some bunches.

If powdery mildew is suspected, the bushes should be treated with colloidal sulfur.
Continue foliar feeding with phosphorus and potassium.
By the end of September, the active harvest period begins.

In October, it is necessary to complete the harvest before the onset of frost.

The seedlings are dug up, soaked in water for 6-8 hours and stored.
2 weeks after all the foliage has fallen, prune the vine.
All plant remains are burned, and the soil between the rows is dug up.

By the beginning of November, it is necessary to complete pruning of the vines of covering varieties and carry out the last watering. Before the soil has time to freeze, cover the bushes for the winter.

If peat or sawdust is used as a fur coat, the procedure can be postponed until light frosts (up to -10 degrees Celsius).
You can remove the garters from the trellises and remove the remaining vines.
Be sure to disinfect all tools after pruning.

Caring for grapes in winter

In December and January, it is necessary to monitor the cover of the bushes. In case of significant precipitation, sprinkle snow on the vineyard - this will improve plant protection.

Regularly check the condition of the seedlings: if there is excess moisture, ventilate the roots, if there is a lack, moisturize. IN winter time It is recommended to check the condition of the trellises and garden tools. Buy everything you need in advance.

In February it is time to stock up on fertilizers for spring planting. In an apartment, you can start germinating cuttings to obtain seedlings. If possible, visit summer cottage plot in February for pruning of uncovered grape varieties.

Continue to monitor the seedlings. During this period, it is worth stocking up on the necessary medications for the entire season:

Strobe and Flint (from powdery mildew, anthracnose);
Neoron and Thiovit (against ticks);
Fastak (from thrips);
Nitrafen and Dnok (universal).

I continue to comment on my video, which I shot towards the end of July, on the 20th, in my opinion. Let me remind you that I did previous articles with such a review and video:
July 6, article
June 20, article
May 28, article from this year 2018.

Briefly what this video is about. Here I talk about removing old leaves, shaking and unraveling the bunches, number of feedings, how many leaves should there be on a grape shoot?, about load of grapes in bunches and shoots, about how important properly plant grapes.

What I forgot to say. What kind of dressings did I make?. This time I gave 2 kg of nitroammophoska (let me remind you, formula N: 5-11, P: 18-30, K: 20-35) and 1 kg of urea (N 46) and plus an infusion of chicken, ash and nettle, mainly for micronutrient support. This is all, I repeat, poured under the tape. Here is a link to a video of fertilizing using drip tape.

About watering. I watered for 2 days in the mornings and evenings and the total amount was 230 liters per bush. Although there are powerful downpours all around, Kyiv was covered 3 times, but a couple of drops fell on my grapes, so I watered as much as I could. 2 weeks ago I poured 100 liters on the bush, since before that I was good rain. It’s bad when there’s no rain, but when there is, it’s difficult to adjust watering rates; it’s not clear how much rain there is.

About treatments against diseases. This time I gave 9 liters of water 25g fungicide Shavit(mildew, gray mold) and 5g fungicide Topaz(oidium). In general, I didn’t have a new outbreak of diseases this time, as in last time. Gray rot occurred when the interval between treatments was 3 weeks. As I started doing it once every 2 weeks, I don’t see any illnesses. This is my last fourth treatment before harvest (I wanted to do 3, but it didn’t work out). Now I won’t do any processing for a month. My grapes will ripen around August 20-30, so I’ll make another one after harvest. Why do I stop treating fungicides a month before consuming grapes, although manufacturers say 2 weeks? Somewhere I had information (I don’t remember where I got it from) that after 2 weeks the fungicide is not removed from the plant cells, but after a month it is practically gone.

About the strength of growth and power of grape shoots. Variety Arcadia. I had real concerns about it; shoots could appear, and then I would have to leave one bunch for each shoot. Still, increased feeding helped. Let me remind you that I could not understand why there was no power in the shoots. It turned out that my mother, without my knowledge, came to help me with green operations and broke off the stepsons at the root. Now the stepsons have started to grow in the horizontal plane of the arch, the leaf apparatus has increased, and the shoots have begun to grow, of course not as powerfully as where the stepsons did not break off, but still somehow a rod. The most interesting thing is that I raised my video from 6 years ago of the same arch on almost the same date (July 17), and so to my surprise, there the shoots of Arcadia braid the ridge of the arch more strongly than the shoots of Kodryanka from the other edge (this year it’s the other way around ). This still suggests that despite the earlier start of enlargement of Arcadia berries, with proper pinching it develops faster than Kodryanka. It’s just that it most likely begins to vegetate earlier. Here is this old video:

Variety Kodryanka. I actually have it with peas this year. Here's a video I made showing why, in my opinion, Kodryanka got proud:

Refinery grade. Somehow it doesn’t have large clusters this year, but it’s growing normally. And it seems to me that this year it will have a large, elongated berry. A third of the shoots of this variety reached the ridge, and I snapped them, there was enough leaf mass, the shoots grew 2.5-2.7 m. Here's a video about it how many leaves should be left on the shoot? for 2 bunches, and about the length of the shoot:

Now I especially want to look at it in more detail pinching (or early chasing) the shoot when it has reached the desired length. This is a very interesting point. Actually, minting is done on August 5-10. But a third of my vines at the oil refinery, Kodryanka, and some vines at Arcadia have reached the required length and the required number of leaves to feed 2 bunches and have grown to the middle of the arch. Why should I drive nutrients into new leaves that will give me a return possibly after harvest? Wouldn't it be better to direct them into berries? Then the berries will become larger and ripen earlier.

Now about one more nuance, similar to the previous one. If I see a shoot with only one bunch, I don’t lead it to the ridge, to the middle of the arch. For what? If it has 20 leaves plus good stepsons, this will be enough for one bunch. And I mint it (or pinch it) behind the 20th sheet. Maybe this space will be needed by the shoot on the other side of the arch, on which 2 large grapes hang.

Watering grapes in summer

Depends on the weather, the condition of the plantings, and the soil. Water by sprinkling, drip into the root zone, into holes near the bushes or along grooves. We select the appropriate one based on local conditions. At the dacha, with a small vineyard area, it can be convenient to dig in a piece of pipe or plastic bottle. Thus, we water the grapes, and not the weeds nearby, and in small doses: the water goes to the right place, and unproductive evaporation is minimal.

The amount of watering depends on the needs of the plant and the weather. If the lower leaves begin to turn yellow, water them immediately. On light soils, moisture penetrates deeper faster, but it is necessary to water more often, as it is less retained. On heavy soils, there is excess moisture during the rainy season. In this case, it is necessary to carry out drainage and loosen the soil to allow air to enter to avoid the death of the roots.

It is convenient to combine watering and fertilizing using a solution of organic and mineral fertilizers instead of water.

Irrigation by sprinkling has a significant disadvantage, since, if watered correctly in the summer, we still have reflected splashes from the soil. Namely, this is where the pathogens of oidium are stored, which drop onto the leaves...

Fertilizer

The crop removes a lot of nutrients from the soil; they need to be replaced with fertilizer. We add it in the fall, in the summer - except during watering, when we add diluted urine, mullein, or something else to the water. When feeding grapes in July and later, we do not add mineral nitrogen: the growing season will increase, the ripening of the berries will be delayed, the plant will lose weight and will not have time to enter the dormant stage. Winter hardiness will be like that of a banana. Maybe a little higher, but still not enough...

The removal of potassium is large, we mainly apply chlorine-free forms of its fertilizers - chlorine harms the grapes.

A lot of phosphorus is required, we take into account its availability in the soil. The fact is that a high content of copper, manganese, and lime in the soil reduces the availability of phosphorus for plants; the roots cannot “pull” it out of the soil. It is good to give some of it in the form of foliar feeding, that is, spray the leaves with a solution of phosphorus salts.

In general, the method of foliar feeding has a number of advantages: batteries are used more economically, since they are not bound by the soil and go directly to the plant. It is convenient to feed the plant with iron with a solution of ferrous sulfate: its deficiency disrupts photosynthesis and leads to chlorosis. Particularly good is foliar feeding with a solution of microelements, which the plant needs in small quantities, but which cannot be done without. Feeding with this solution before flowering increases the number of berries set. In this case, the solution must be diluted and its acidity close to neutral to avoid burning the leaves.

Protecting grapes from pests and diseases

High temperatures, alas, favor the development of not only grapes. When describing how to care for grapes in the summer, you should definitely pay attention to. This is a large, extensive topic, so we have posted articles dedicated to this particular topic on our website. And in this text we will just briefly mention that there is large number diseases and pests of grapes that can reduce or destroy the entire harvest. Spraying with medicinal preparations. combined with spraying with solutions of stimulating and nutrient substances saves costs.

Green jobs

The correct formation of a bush is of great importance: this is how we achieve the correct ratio of the root part, leaf surface, buds and shoots, inflorescences. Any deviation from the optimum leads to a decrease in yield and weakening of the bush. And not only this year, but also in the next few!

The main pruning is usually done in the spring, but there is plenty of work to do in the summer as well. To speed up ripening, the grapes are minted: we shorten the shoots, leaving 10-12 leaves above the bunch. In addition to minting, other techniques are used to speed up the ripening of berries:

Banding. In June, under the lower brush, we remove the bark and cambium in a ring, 3-5 mm.
We roll up a long shoot into a ring, inclined or horizontal.
Twisting of the vine. Above the last bunch we twist (do not cut off, just twist) the vine. In addition to accelerating ripening, the bunch will be sweeter.

It is worth noting that if we need to speed up ripening, maybe we just made a mistake when choosing a variety for planting?

We carry out pinching of the grapes, removing, partially or completely, fast-growing small shoots from the buds on this year's pagons. They thicken the bush, reducing illumination, which reduces sugar content and yield, leading to disease. Stepchildren grow more strongly when the grape bush is unloaded, when there is “extra” substance that is not used for filling berries and laying buds, and growing shoots.

Formation is carried out all the time; it is not only a responsible, but also a difficult to describe set of techniques.

A video showing pruning techniques will help you properly care for grapes in July. Observing the crown of the shoot will help you understand whether the bush is loaded enough. Normally, it remains bent until about mid-August. The bending is caused by uneven growth of wood. Alignment of the crown is a sign of overload of the bush; it is urgent to remove excess shoots, otherwise the formation of buds will be disrupted and the harvest of both this year and the next 2-3 years will suffer.