Materials Science. Materials science textile industry produces fabrics, non-woven
Chapter I
STRUCTURE OF FIBERS AND THREADS
1. STRUCTURE OF FIBERS AND FILAMENTS
Textile fibers (filaments) have a complex physical structure and most of them have a high molecular weight.
For textile fibers, a fibrillar structure is typical. Fibrils are combinations of microfibrils of oriented supramolecular compounds. Microfibrils are molecular complexes, their cross section is less than 10 nm. They are held near each other by intermolecular forces, as well as due to the transition of individual molecules from complex to complex. The transition of molecules from one microfibril to another depends on their length. It is believed that the length of microfibrils is an order of magnitude greater than the diameter. Microfibrils and fibrils of some fibers are shown in fig. I.1.
The bonds between fibrils are carried out mainly by the forces of intermolecular interaction, they are much weaker than microfibrillar ones. Between the fibrils there is big number longitudinal cavities, pores. Fibrils are located in the fibers along the axis or at a relatively small angle. Only in some fibers the arrangement of fibrils has a random, irregular character, however, even in this case, their general orientation in the direction of the axis is preserved. Fibrils and microfibrils are visible under a microscope at a magnification of 1500 times or more.
The properties of fibers are determined not only by the supramolecular structure, but also by its lower levels. The relationship of the structure of the fibers pa different levels with their properties have not yet been studied enough. The structure of fiber-forming polymers, fibers and its relationship with properties are considered in the work. Further accumulation of data on the relationship between structure and properties will make it possible to solve major problem about the rational use of fibers and changing their structure in order to achieve control over the process of obtaining fibers with the required set of properties.
Characteristics of the structure of some basic fiber-forming polymers are given in table. I.1.
The chemical composition of the fibers and some other characteristics of the structure of the fibers are given in the textbook. Therefore, in this textbook, information about the structure of fibers is reduced, only its features (morphological, etc.) are described.
Cotton fibers (Fig. 1.2). Cotton fiber is hollow, has a channel is the place of separation from the seed. The other, pointed, end of the channel does not. The morphology of different fibers, even from the same fiber, is significantly different. For example, the channel of mature and overmature fibers is narrow, and the shape of the cross section varies from bean-shaped in mature fibers to ellipsoidal and almost round in overmature fibers and flattened ribbon-like in immature fibers.
The fiber is twisted around its longitudinal axis. The greatest crimp in mature fibers; in immature and overripe fibers, it is small, inconspicuous. It has to do with shape and mutual arrangement elements of the supramolecular structure of the fiber. The fiber stack has a layered structure. The outer layer less than 1 µm thick is called the primary wall. It consists of a network formed by sparsely spaced and highly angled cellulose fibrils, the space between which is filled with cellulose satellites. The content of cellulose in the primary wall is, according to available data, slightly more than half of its mass.
The outer surface of the primary wall consists of a wax-pectin layer.
In the primary wall of fibers, some researchers distinguish two layers in which the fibrils are located at different angles. The secondary main wall of the fiber reaches 6–8 µm in thickness in a mature fiber. It consists of bundles of fibrils arranged along helical lines rising at an angle of 20 - 45° to the fiber axis. The direction of the helical line changes from Z to S.
Tab. I. 1. Characterization of the structure of fiber-forming polymers
Different fibers have different fibril angles. In thin fibers, the angles of inclination of the fibrils are small. Cellulose satellites are the filler between the fibril bundles.
The fibril bundles are arranged in concentric layers (Fig. 1.3), which are clearly visible in the cross section of the fiber. Their number reaches forty, which corresponds to the days of cellulose deposition. The presence of a tertiary part of the secondary wall in contact with the canal is also noted. This part is very tight. In addition, in this layer, the gaps between the cellulose fibrils are filled with protein substances and protoplasm, consisting of protein substances, simple carbohydrates, from which cellulose is synthesized, etc.
The cellulose of cotton fibers has an amorphous-crystalline structure. The degree of its crystallinity is 0.6 - 0.8, and the density of crystallites reaches 1.56 - 1.64 g / cm3 (Table 1.2).
Bast fibers (Fig. 1.4). Technical fibers obtained from bast plants are complexes of elementary fibers glued together with pectin substances. Individual elementary fibers are tubular plant cells. However, unlike cotton fiber, both ends of the bast fiber are closed. Bast fibers have primary, secondary and tertiary walls.
The cross section of a flax fiber is an irregular polygon with a narrow channel. The drip of coarse fibers is close to oval, it is wider and slightly flattened. A feature of the morphology of flax fibers is the presence of shifts of longitudinal strokes across the fiber, which are traces of fractures or bends of the fibers during the growth period, during mechanical processing. The channel has a constant width. The primary wall of flax fibers consists of fibrils located along a helical line of direction S with an inclination of 8 - -12° to the longitudinal axis. Fibrils in the secondary wall are located along the helical line of the Z direction. The angle of their rise in the outer layers is the same as in the primary wall, but gradually decreases, sometimes reaching 0°, while the direction of the spirals changes to the opposite. Pectic substances between the fibrils are located unevenly, their content increases towards the channel.
The elementary fiber of hemp-derived hemp has blunt or forked ends, the fiber channel is flattened and much wider than that of flax. Shifts on hemp fibers are more pronounced than on flax fiber, and the fiber in this
place has a bend. The fibril bundles in the primary and secondary walls are located along the helical line of the Z direction, but the fibril inclination angle decreases from 20–35° in the outer layer to 2–3° in the inner one. The largest number pectin is contained in the primary wall and the outer layers of the secondary.
Elementary fibers of jute, kenaf have a rounded end, thick walls, irregular shape cross-section: with separate faces and a channel, which either narrows to a filiform, or sharply expands.
Technical fibers of jute, kenaf are rigidly glued fiber complexes with a high lignin content.
Ramie fibers in plant stems are formed as separate elementary fibers without the formation of technical fiber bundles. Sharp shifts, longitudinal cracks are noticeable on the ramie fibers. Cellulose fibrils in the primary and secondary walls of the ramie are located along an inclined line of direction S. The angle of inclination in the primary wall reaches 12 °, in the secondary wall it changes from 10 - 9 ° in the outer to 0 ° in the inner layers.
Leaf fibers (abaca, sisal and formium) are complex, in which short elementary fibers are rigidly glued into bundles. The structure of elementary fibers is similar to coarse-stemmed bast fibers. The cross-sectional shape is oval, the channel is wide, especially in abaca - manila hemp.
Chemical structure of bast fibers different types close to the chemical structure of cotton fiber. They consist of a-cellulose, the content of which ranges from 80.5% for flax to 71.5% for jute and 70.4% for abaca. The fibers have a high content of lignin (more than 5%), there are also fats, waxes, and ash substances. Bast fibers have the most a high degree cellulose polymerization (for flax it reaches 30,000 or more).
wool fibers. Woolen are hair fibers of sheep, goats, camels and other animals. The main fiber is sheep wool (its share is almost 98%). Down, transitional hair, awn, coarse awn or dead hair are found in sheep's wool (Fig. 1.5).
Down fibers consist of an outer layer - scaly and inner - cortical (cortex). The down section is round. The transitional hair has a third layer - the core (medulla), interrupted along the length of the fiber. In the awn and dead hair, this layer is located along the entire length of the fiber.
In a dead hair or a coarse awn, the core layer occupies most cross-sectional area. The loose core layer is filled with lamellar cells located perpendicular to the spindle-shaped cells of the cortical layer. Between the cells there are gaps filled with air (vacuoles), fatty substances, pigment. Cross section of an awn and a dead hair of an irregular oval shape.
Wool fibers have an undulating crimp, characterized by the number of crimps per unit length (1 cm) and the shape of the crimp. Fine wool has 4 - 12 or more curls per 1 cm of length, coarse wool is slightly twisted. According to the shape or nature of the crimp, wool is distinguished by weak, normal crimp and strongly crimped. With a weak crimp, the fibers have a smooth, stretched and flat shape of the coils (Fig. 1.6). With normal crimping of the fibers, the crimps have the shape of a semicircle. The fibers of highly crimped wool have a compressed, high and looped curl shape.
Scales of an awn and a dead hair remind a tile. There are several of them on the circumference of the fiber. The thickness of the scales is about 1 micron, the length is different - from 4 to 25 microns, depending on the type of wool (from 40 to 250 scales per 1 mm of fiber length). It has been established that scales have three layers - epicuticle, exocuticle and endocuticle. The epicuticle is thin (5 - 25 nm), resistant to chlorine, concentrated acids and other reagents. The dog includes chitin, waxes, etc. The exocuticle consists of protein compounds and the endocuticle - the main layer of the scale - from modified protein substances, has a high chemical resistance.
The cortical layer of fibers consists of spindle-shaped cells - supramolecular formations of protein fibrils
keratin, the gaps between which are filled with nucleoprotein, a pigment. Spindle-shaped cells (Fig. 1.7, a) are large supramolecular formations with pointed ends, their length is up to 90 microns, the cross-sectional size is up to 4-6 microns. In the keratin of the cortical layer, paracortex and orthocortex can occur. The paracortex contains more cisgin than the orthocortex, it is harder and more alkali resistant. In the slushy downy fiber, the paracortex is located on the outside, and the orthocortex is located on the inside. However, goat down is monocotyledonous and consists only of the orthocortex, while human hair consists only of the paracortex.
Fibrils (Fig. 1.7.6) consist of microfibrils of keratin, which belongs to proteins. Protein macromolecules are composed of amino acid residues. Wool keratin macromolecules are branched, since the radicals of a number of amino acids represent small side chains. Perhaps the content in the chain of macromolecules of cyclic groups.
Macromolecules in fibers in the normal state are strongly bent and twisted (a-helix), however, the length of macromolecules significantly (hundreds and even thousands of times) exceeds its transverse dimensions, in which they are less than 1 nm.
Due to the presence of amino acid residues containing various radicals, keratin molecules interact with each other due to various forces: intermolecular (van der Waals forces), hydrogen, salt (ionic) and even valence chemical bonds. This is discussed in detail in the textbook.
Wool of other animals (Fig. 1.8 and 1.9). Goat hair consists of fluff and coarse awn. Down and awn are also found in camel hair. In the wool of rabbits there are thin downy fibers, but coarser ones, such as transitional and outer ones.
Deer, horse and cow hair consists mainly of coarse outer fibers.
Silk fibres. The primary silk fiber is the cocoon thread (Fig. I. 10), secreted by the caterpillar of the silkworm moth when curling the cocoon. Cocoon filament is two filaments of fibroin protein glued together with low molecular weight sericip protein. Mulberry is uneven in cross section. Fibrils of fibroin are located along the axis of silk, their length is up to 250 nm, width is up to 100 nm. Microfibrils are composed of fibroin protein, their cross section is about 10 nm. The configuration of the silk fibroin chain is a shallow helix (see Table I. 1).
Asbestos (Fig. 1.11). Asbestos fibers are crystals of natural hydrous magnesium silicates (silicic acid salts). The needle-like finest crystallites of asbestos, united into larger aggregates by the forces of intermolecular interaction, have an elongated shape and have the properties of fibers. Elementary asbestos fibers are combined into complexes (technical fibers).
Chemical fibers (Fig. I. 12). Chemical fibers are very diverse in their chemical composition and structure (see Table I. 1).
From natural polymers greater distribution received viscose, acetate, triacetate fibers and threads.
Viscose fibers are a group of fibers and threads that are identical in chemical composition (from hydrated cellulose), but differ significantly in structure and properties. In ordinary viscose fibers, the degree of polymerization of cellulose (up to 200) is much less than in cotton fibers. The difference also lies in the spatial arrangement of the elementary unit of cellulose. In hydrated cellulose, glucose residues are rotated to each other by 90°, and not by 180°, as is the case in cotton cellulose, which has a significant effect on the properties of the fibers. For example, hydrated cellulose fibers absorb various substances more strongly and stain deeper. The structure of viscose fibers is amorphous-crystalline. Ordinary viscose fibers are also characterized by heterogeneity, consisting in varying degrees of orientation of fibrils and microfibrils. The microfibrils in the outer layer are oriented in the longitudinal direction, while in the inner layer the degree of orientation is very low.
Upon receipt (formation) of the fibers, their non-simultaneous solidification in thickness occurs. At the beginning, the outer layer hardens, under the action of atmospheric pressure the walls are pulled inward, causing the cross section to become tortuous. These convolutions (bands) are visible in the longitudinal view of the fibers. Hollow fibers or C-shaped structures can be obtained; the former are formed by blowing air through the solution, the latter by using special dies.
In addition, viscose fibers are matted with titanium dioxide (TiO2), as a result of which the powder particles that appear on the surface of the fibers scatter the rays of light and the shine decreases.
High-modulus viscose (VVM) and especially polyion fibers are distinguished by a high degree of orientation and structural uniformity, and an increased degree of crystallinity. Due to the high orientation, uniformity of the structure, the morphology of the fibers also changes. The cross section of these fibers, in contrast to the cross section of ordinary viscose threads, does not have convolutions, it is oval, close to a circle.
Copper-ammonia fibers have a more uniform structure compared to viscose fibers. The cross section of the fibers is an oval approaching a circle.
Acetate fibers are chemically cellulose acetate. They are divided into diacetate (they are usually called acetate) and triacetate according to the number of substituted hydroxyl groups in cellulose with acetic anhydride. Characteristics of the structure of triacetate fibers are given in table. I. 1. The structure of the fibers is amorphous-crystalline, with a small degree of crystallinity (see Table 1.2).
Synthetic fibers are widely used, and their balance in the overall production of textile fibers is increasing. Features of the chemical structure of synthetic fibers and filaments, their production are described in the textbook.
Made from synthetic fibers large group represent polyamide fibers (kapron, perlon, dederon, nylon, etc.) - The structure of fibers from polycaproamides is amorphous-crystalline, the degree of crystallinity can reach 70% - Crystallites include several links oriented along the fibers. The shape of the fiber sections can be different, usually the cross section is round, but it can also be of a different shape (Fig. I. 13).
This group also includes fibers from polyenantoamide - enant, nylon 6.6, which differ from polycaproamide fibers in the chemical structure of the elementary unit - NH - (CH2) 6 - (CH2) 6 - CONH - (CH2) 6 - CO -. The configuration of the molecular chain of fibers of this type, like that of caproamide, is elongated, a zigzag with several greater length elementary link.
Polyester fibers (terylene, lavsan, etc.) are obtained from polyethylene terephthalate. The fibers have an amorphous-crystalline structure. The circuit configuration is close to straight. A feature of the chemical structure of the fibers is the connection of the elementary links of the chain with an ester group - C -. By morphology, the fibers are close to polyamide.
Polyacrylonitrile fibers include nitron and many other varieties that have own name in different countries, such as acrylan, orlon (USA), pre-lan (GDR), etc. In appearance, the cross section has an oval shape. The elementary unit of macromolecules of nitron fibers has the following chemical composition- CH2 - CH - CN
The structure of polyacrylonitrile fibers is amorphous-crystalline. The fraction of the crystalline phase is small. The configuration of fiber macromolecules is elongated, transzigzag.
Polypropylene and polyethylene fibers are polyolefin fibers. The elementary link of macromolecules of polypropylene fibers has the form - CH - CH2 - CH3
The cross-sectional shape of the fibers is oval, the fibrils are oriented along the axis.
The structure of macromolecules is stereoregular. The degree of polymerization of fibers can vary over a wide range (1900 - 5900). The structure of supramolecular formations is amorphous-crystalline. In this case, the crystalline fraction reaches 85 - 95%.
The morphology of polyethylene fibers does not differ significantly from the morphology of polypropylene fibers. Their supramolecular structure is also fibrillar. Macromolecules with elementary units - CH2 - CH2 - form an amorphous crystalline structure with a predominance of crystalline.
Polyurethane fibers consist of macromolecules, the elementary links of which contain a urethane group - NH - C - O -. The structure of the fibers is amorphous, the glass transition temperature is low. Flexible segments of macromolecules at ordinary temperature are in a highly elastic state. Due to this structure, the fibers have a very high extensibility (up to 500 - 700%) at normal temperatures.
Fibers of halogen-containing polymers are fibers made from polyvinyl chloride, polyvinylidene, fluorolone, etc. Polyvinyl chloride fibers (chlorine, perchlorovinyl) are amorphous fibers with a low degree of crystallinity. The configuration of macromolecules is elongated. The elementary link of macromolecules is CH2 - CHC1. Morphological feature fibers - unevenly tightened surface.
Polyvinylidene chloride fibers have an amorphous-crystalline structure with a high degree of crystallinity. The chemical structure of the fibers also differs: in the elementary link, the content of chlorine (- CH2 - CC12 -) increases, the density of the fibers increases.
In fibers made from fluorine-containing polymers, compared to vinylidene chloride, hydrogen and chlorine are replaced by fluorine. Elementary links of Teflon - CF2 - fibers, fluorolone - CH2 - CHF - fibers. A feature of the structure of these fibers is a significant binding energy of carbon and fluorine atoms, its polarity, which determines the high resistance to aggressive media.
Carbon fibers - heat resistant fibers, configuration. the chains of macromolecules are layered-tape, the degree of polymerization is very high.
2. STRUCTURAL ANALYSIS OF FIBERS AND THREADS
Information about the structure of fibers, about the features of its changes as a result of the impact of technological processes, operating conditions are becoming more and more necessary when improving the quality of textile materials, improving technological processes, determining conditions rational use fibers. The rapid development and improvement of experimental physics methods have created a fundamental basis for studying the structure of textile materials.
Further, only some of the most common methods of structural analysis are considered - optical light and electron microscopy, spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction analysis, dielectrometry and thermal analysis.
LIGHT MICROSCOPY
Light microscopy is one of the most common methods for studying the structure of textile fibers, threads and products. The resolution of an optical microscope, which uses light in the visible region of the spectrum, can reach 1 - 0.2 microns.
The resolving power of the lens b0 and the microscope bm is determined by the approximate formulas:
where X is the wavelength of light, microns; A - aperture, numerical characteristic of the resolving power, lens (the ability to depict the smallest details of an object); A - aperture of the illuminating part - the condenser of the microscope.
where n is the refractive index of the medium located between the preparation and the first front lens of the objective (for air 1; for water 1.33; for glycerin M7; for cedar oil 1.51); a is the angle of deviation of the extreme beam entering the lens from a point located on the optical axis.
The resolution and aperture can be increased by immersion, i.e., by replacing the air medium with a liquid with a high refractive index.
Microobjectives are divided according to their spectral characteristics (for the visible, ultraviolet and infrared regions of the light spectrum), the length of the tube, the medium between the objective and the preparation (dry and immersion), the nature of observation and the type of preparations (for preparations with a cover slip and without glass, etc.).
Eyepieces are chosen depending on the objective, since the total magnification of the microscope is equal to the product of the angular magnification of the eyepiece and the objective. To fix the features of the structure and convenience in work, microphotographic attachments and microphotographic installations, drawing devices, binocular tubes are used. In addition to biological microscopes, which are widely used in the study of the morphology of textile fibers and threads, fluorescent, ultraviolet and infrared, stereomicroscopes, comparison microscopes, and measuring microscopes are used.
The luminescent microscope is equipped with a set of interchangeable light filters, with the help of which it is possible to select a part of the spectrum in the illuminator radiation that excites the luminescence of the objective under study. When working on this microscope, it is necessary to select filters that transmit only luminescence light from the object.
Ultraviolet, infrared microscopes allow you to conduct research in the invisible regions of the spectrum. The lenses of such microscopes are made of materials that are transparent to ultraviolet (quartz, fluorite) or infrared (silicon, germanium, fluorite, lithium fluoride) rays. Converters turn an invisible image into a visible one.
Stereo microscopes provide volumetric perception of a micro-object, and comparison microscopes allow you to compare two objects at the same time.
The methods of polarizing and interference microscopy are becoming more and more widespread. In polarizing microscopy, the microscope is supplemented with a special polarizing device, which includes two polaroids: the lower one is stationary and the upper one is an analyzer that rotates freely in the frame. Light polarization makes it possible to study such properties of anisotropic fiber structures as birefringence, dichroism, etc. Light from the illuminator passes through a polaroid and is polarized in one plane. However, when passing through the preparation (fibers), the polarization changes and the resulting changes are studied using an analyzer and various compensators of optical systems.
05.19.01 "Materials science of textile and light industry" in technical sciences
MINIMUM PROGRAM
candidate exam in the specialty
05.19.01 "Materials Science of Textile and Light Industry"
in technical sciences
Introduction
This program is based on the following disciplines: materials science for light industry; textile materials science.
The program was developed by the expert council of the Higher Attestation Commission of the Ministry of Education of the Russian Federation in chemistry (in chemical technology) with the participation of the Moscow State Textile University named after A.N. Kosygin and Moscow state university design and technology.
1. Materials science of light industry production
Materials science is the science of the structure and properties of materials. The relationship of materials science with physics, chemistry, mathematics, with the technology of leather, fur, footwear and clothing. The importance of materials science in improving the quality and competitiveness of these products. The main directions of development of materials science in light industry.
polymer substances. Fiber-forming, film-forming and adhesive polymeric substances: cellulose, proteins (keratin, fibroin, collagen), polyamides, polyethylene terephthalates, polyolefins, polyacrylonitriles, polyimides, polyurethanes, polyvinyl alcohol, etc., their structural features and basic properties. Amorphous and crystalline state of polymers. Molecular and supramolecular structures of synthetic polymers, hierarchical structures in natural polymers. Oriented state of polymers.
The structure of materials. textile materials. Textile fibers, their classification. Structure, composition and properties of the main types of fibers; vegetable origin, animal origin, artificial (from natural polymers), synthetic (from synthetic polymers), from inorganic compounds. Modified textile fibers, features of their structure and properties. Textile threads, main types and varieties, features of their structure and properties. Fabrics, knitted and non-woven fabrics; methods of their preparation and structure. Characteristics of the structure of textile materials and methods for their determination. The main types of textile materials for clothing, footwear and their characteristics.
Leather and fur materials. Methods for obtaining leather and fur. Theories of tanning. The composition and structure of leather and fur, the main structural characteristics and methods for their determination. Types of leathers and furs for clothing, footwear and their characteristics. Artificial and synthetic leathers and furs, methods of their production and structure. The main types of artificial and synthetic leather and furs, their characteristics. biopolymer materials. Materials obtained with the participation of enzymatic systems.
Rubbers, polymer compositions, plastic compounds, cardboards used in light industry, methods for their production and composition. The main characteristics of the structure of these materials and methods for their determination.
Fastening materials: sewing threads and adhesive materials. Types of sewing threads, methods for their production, structural features. The main characteristics of the structure of threads and methods for their determination. adhesive materials. Modern theories gluing. Methods for obtaining, composition and structure of adhesive materials used in the clothing and shoe industries. The main types of adhesive materials and their characteristics.
Geometric properties and density of materials.
Length, thickness, width of materials, area of skins and furs, methods for determining these characteristics.
Mass of the material, linear and surface density of the material, methods for determining these characteristics.
Density, average density, true density of materials.
Mechanical properties of materials.
Classification of characteristics of mechanical properties. Theories of Strength and Fracture solids. Kinetic theory strength.
Semi-cycle discontinuous and indissoluble characteristics obtained by stretching materials, devices and methods for their determination. Calculation methods for determining the forces at break of materials. Biaxial stretch. tear strength. Anisotropy of elongations and tensile forces of materials in different directions.
Single-cycle tensile characteristics. Components of complete deformation. Creep and relaxation phenomena in materials, methods for determining relaxation spectra. Model methods for studying relaxation phenomena in materials. High-cycle tensile characteristics, fatigue and fatigue of materials, devices and methods for determining fatigue characteristics.
Half-cycle and single-cycle characteristics obtained by bending materials, methods and instruments for their determination. Multi-cycle characteristics obtained by bending materials. Stresses and strains arising from compressive forces. Dependence of material thickness on external pressure. Multiple compression of materials.
Friction of materials, modern ideas about the nature of friction.
Factors determining the friction of materials. Friction test methods for various materials. Stretching and shedding of threads in fabrics.
Physical properties of materials.
Sorption properties of materials. Forms of connection of moisture with materials. Kinetics of water vapor sorption by materials. Hysteresis of sorption. Thermal effects and swelling of materials during moisture sorption. The main characteristics of the hygroscopic properties of materials, devices and methods for their determination.
permeability of materials. Air permeability, vapor permeability, water permeability, methods and instruments for determining these characteristics. Permeability of radioactive, ultraviolet, infrared rays through materials. Influence of composition, structure and properties of materials on their permeability.
Thermal properties of materials. The main characteristics of the thermal properties of materials, devices and methods for their determination. Influence of structure parameters and other factors on the thermal properties of materials. Effect of high and low temperatures on materials.
Heat resistance, heat resistance, fire resistance of materials.
Optical properties. The main characteristics of optical properties, devices and methods for their determination. Influence of technological and operational factors on the optical properties of materials.
Electrical properties of materials. Causes and factors of electrification and electrical conductivity of materials. The main characteristics of the electrified and electrical conductivity of materials, devices and methods for their determination.
Acoustic properties of materials.
Changes in the structure and properties of materials during processing and operation. Wear resistance of materials.
Changing the dimensions of materials under the influence of moisture and heat.
Shrinkage and attraction of materials during locking and wet heat treatment. Devices and methods for determining the shrinkage of materials.
Formability of materials. The main factors and causes of shaping and form-fixing of materials. Methods and devices for determining the forming ability of materials.
Wear resistance of materials. Basic wear criteria. Reasons for wear. Abrasion, stages of wear and the mechanism of abrasion and its determining factors. Peeling, the reasons for its formation. Methods and devices for determining the resistance of materials to abrasion.
Physical and chemical wear factors. The impact of light, light weather, washing and other factors on materials. Combined wear factors. Experienced wear. Laboratory modeling of wear.
Reliability of materials, main characteristics of reliability. Estimation and prediction of the reliability characteristics of materials.
Non-destructive methods for testing materials and their application.
Quality and certification of materials.
The quality of materials. Sampling and sampling of materials. Summary characteristics of test results, confidence limits. statistical models. Probabilistic quality assessment. Methods of statistical control and measurement of quality, quality levels. Nomenclature of quality indicators for various groups of materials.
Expert method for quality assessment. Quality management systems, domestic and international quality management standards. Certification. System and mechanism of certification. Basic conditions for certification. Mandatory and voluntary certification. Certification of materials and products in light industry.
2. Materials science of textile industry
Textile materials science and its development.
Classification of textile materials. The main types of natural and chemical fibers, threads and products from them. Areas of their rational use. Fibers, threads and products for technical and special purposes. Their classification, structural features and properties. Modern standard terminology. Economics and significance for various industries of the main types of textile materials. Prospects for their production.
The place of textile materials science among other technical sciences, its connection with fundamental sciences, with textile technology.
The development of textile materials science and the challenges facing it.
The main scientific schools of textile materials science are the directions of their scientific work. Outstanding domestic and foreign scientists in the field of textile materials science, their work. The role of the department of textile materials science of MSTU in the development of domestic textile materials science.
Textile fibers, their composition and structure.
Classification of textile fibers, polymeric substances that make up fibers. Features of their structure.
Development of scientific views on the structure of polymeric substances that make up fibers. Modern views on this issue.
Supramolecular structures of fiber-forming polymers.
The main polymers that make up the fibers: cellulose, keratin, fibroin, polyamides, polyesters, polyolefins, polyvinyl chlorides, polyacrylonitriles, polyurethanes. New types of polymers used for high-modulus, heat- and heat-resistant fibers and threads. Their characteristics. Modified chemical fibers: mtilon, polynosic, trilobal, shelon, siblon and others. Features of their structure and properties.
Wool is called the hairline of animals, which has spinning qualities or felting.
Wool is one of the main natural textile fibers.
Distinguish wool natural, factory and restored.
natural wool
- wool, wool sheared from animals (sheep, goat, etc.), combed out (camel, dog, goat and rabbit down) or collected during molting (cow, horse, sarlych) This wool is of the highest quality.
factory wool
- this is wool taken from the skins of animals, it is less durable than natural.
Reclaimed wool
- wool obtained by plucking a woolen flap, rags, scraps of yarn. These wool fibers are the least durable.
Factory and reclaimed wool can be used in the textile industry to make inexpensive cloths.
Wool fibers are horny derivatives of the skin.
Wool fiber consists of three layers:
1 - Scaly (cuticle) - the outer layer, consists of individual scales, protects the body of the hair from destruction. The degree of gloss of the fiber and its ability to felt (roll, fall off) depend on the type of scales and their location.
2 - Cortical - the main layer, forms the body of the hair, determines its quality.
3 - Core - located in the center of the fiber, consists of cells filled with air.
Depending on the ratio of individual layers, wool fibers are divided into 4 types:
a - down: a very thin, soft, crimped fiber, in which the core layer is absent.
b - transitional hair: thicker and harder than fluff. The core layer occurs in places.
c - awn: thick, rigid fiber with a significant core layer.
d - dead hair: thick, coarse, straight, brittle fiber, in which the core layer occupies a large part.
The coat consists of top coat and undercoat (undercoat). In sheep, the integumentary hair consists of: awn, transitional and covering hair; down - fluff.
Sheep wool, depending on the type of fibers that make it up, is divided into homogeneous, represented by fibers of the same type, and heterogeneous. AT uniform wool downy and transitional fibers, connecting into groups, form staples(transitional wool fibers of sheep of long-haired breeds - uniform braids). In heterogeneous wool, down, transition and guard fibers are combined into pigtails.
Types of wool
Types of wool are distinguished depending on the type of fibers that form the sheep's hairline. There are the following types:
- Thin- consists of downy fibers, used to produce high-quality woolen fabrics.
- Semi-thin- consists of downy fibers and transitional hair, used to make suit and coat fabrics.
- semi-rough- consists of an awn and a transitional hair, used to produce semi-coarse suit and coat fabrics.
- rough- contains all types of fibers, including dead hair, is used for the manufacture of overcoat cloth, felt, felt boots.
Primary processing of wool: sorting by quality, loosening and removing debris, washing from dirt and grease, drying with hot air.
The average fineness of the fibers: fluff 10 - 25 microns, transitional hair - 30 - 50 microns, awns - 50 microns or more.
Length of wool fibers: from 20 to 450mm, distinguish:
— short fiber: length up to 55mm, used for the production of thick and fluffy hardware yarn;
— long-fiber: length over 55mm, used for the production of fine and smooth combed yarn.
Fiber appearance: matte, warm, color from white (slightly yellowish) to black (the thicker the fiber, the darker it is colored). The color of the coat is determined by the presence of the melanin pigment in the cortical layer. For technological use, the most valuable is white wool, suitable for dyeing in any color.
Felting- this is the ability of wool to form a felt-like covering during the felling process. This property is explained by the presence of scales on the surface of the wool, which prevent the movement of the fiber in the direction opposite to the location of the scales. Thin, elastic, highly crimped wool has the greatest ability to felt.
Combustion features : burns slowly, when taken out of the flame, it fades itself, the smell of burnt horn, the rest is black fluffy fragile ash.
Chemical composition: natural protein keratin
The effect of chemical reagents on fibers: Destroyed by strong hot sulfuric acid, other acids do not work. Soluble in weak alkali solutions. When boiled, the wool dissolves already in a 2% solution of caustic soda. Under the action of dilute acids (up to 10%), the strength of wool increases slightly. Under the action of concentrated nitric acid, the wool turns yellow, under the action of concentrated sulfuric acid, it chars. Insoluble in phenol and acetone.
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- Find out why wool fabric has such wonderful properties
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- Find out when the disadvantages of woolen fabric turn into its advantages
- How the disadvantages of woolen fabric can be used to your advantage
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The range of dresses is diverse, and the requirements for dress materials are also diverse, as the conditions under which they are used are varied.
Hygiene requirements especially important for fabrics used for sewing home and casual dresses. The fabrics of everyday dresses should have good hygroscopic properties: moisture absorption and moisture release. For summer dresses, materials should have good breathability, for winter dresses - good heat-shielding properties.
For elegant and evening dresses, hygiene requirements are less significant, so their non-compliance can be compensated by choosing the appropriate model and design of the product.
Everyday wear requires practical, wrinkle-resistant, shape-stable materials. Fabrics for casual dresses should be resistant to abrasion, to repeated washings, to pilling, must maintain linear dimensions during operation.
Aesthetic requirements change from season to season depending on the direction of fashion. Changing requirements for the appearance, structure, color, plastic properties of the material entails a constant change in the range of materials for dresses. At the same time, the following requirements remain unchanged: low weight, increased flexibility and elasticity of materials, limited rigidity.
Fabrics for summer dresses can be bright and multi-colored, for everyday dresses - calm, non-staining colors, for elegant dresses - unusual colors are needed. externalities materials.
Characteristics of the main types of materials for dresses.
Cotton fabrics are widely used for children's dresses, for women's home and summer dresses, these are such classic cotton fabrics as chintz, calico, flannel, satin.
Lightweight denim with reduced stiffness is used for sewing women's and children's sundresses and dresses.
linen fabrics used for sewing summer dresses. Pure linen fabrics have increased creasing, so nitrone, lavsan, polynose, siblon staple fibers are added to the yarn. Such fabrics retain the effect of linen fabrics, have sufficient hygroscopicity, wear resistance and dimensional stability. They are produced in linen, finely patterned and jacquard weaves, in finishing they are plain-dyed, printed, multi-colored, melange.
Wool dress fabrics produced from woolen yarn with the addition of chemical fibers: nitrone, lavsan, nylon, viscose. These fabrics are designed for winter and demi-season range of dresses.
They are classic. They are easily extensible, drape well, have a slight creasing, crumble along the cuts.
For tailoring dresses-suits, fine-woven fabrics are used, fluffy, soft and warm.
Worsted fabrics made from combed yarn are also used. They are dry to the touch, have a clear weave pattern, crumble along the cuts.
The texture and finishes of the fabrics are extremely varied. They are produced plain-dyed, multi-colored, printed, with the addition of goat or rabbit down, angora wool, from twisted yarn with complex chemical threads, using textured threads, with neps effects (multi-colored lumps spun into yarn).
silk fabrics the most numerous and diverse in the assortment of dress fabrics.
Distinctive properties of polyacrylonitrile fiber
Possess good complex consumer properties. In terms of their mechanical properties, PAN fibers are very close to and in this respect they are superior to all others. They are often referred to as "artificial wool".
They have maximum light resistance, sufficiently high strength and relatively high extensibility (22-35%). Due to the low hygroscopicity, these properties do not change when wet. Products from them after washing retain their shape
They are characterized by high thermal stability and resistance to nuclear radiation.
They are inert to pollutants, so products made from them are easily cleaned. Not damaged by moths and microorganisms.
Printed by decision
editorial and publishing council
Biysk Pedagogical State University
name
Scientific editor:
cand. … Sciences, Associate Professor
Reviewer:
cand. … Sciences, Associate Professor
T Textile materials science[Text]: Educational and methodological complex of the discipline / Comp.: ; Biysk ped. state un-t im. . - Biysk: BPGU im. , 2008. - since ....
The educational and methodological complex of the discipline was developed in accordance with the State Standard of Higher vocational education. It contains the curriculum of the course, materials for lectures, laboratory and practical classes, methodological recommendations for organizing students' independent work, control tasks for current and final testing of knowledge.
For students of pedagogical universities studying in the specialty - Technology and Entrepreneurship.
Ó BPGU im. , 2008.
Ó Comp.: , 2008.
I approve
Dean of the Faculty
____________________
«_____» ____________
Working programm
Department of Technology
(name of the department providing teaching of the discipline)
Code and name
https://pandia.ru/text/78/008/images/image015_7.gif" width="578" height="2 src="> Textile materials science
(code indicating the training cycle (HES, EN, OPD, DS, SD), name of the discipline)
Status Mandatory
(mandatory, elective, optional)
Specialty
(directions) Technology and entrepreneurship
(codes of specialties (directions)
Forms of study daytime
https://pandia.ru/text/78/008/images/image019_5.gif" width="530">(total volume of discipline, hour)
Distribution by semester
The work program was compiled on the basis of the State Educational Standards of areas and specialties of higher professional education, approved by order of the Ministry of Education and Science of the Russian Federation of 01.01.2001.
DC Textile materials science
Developer Senior Lecturer
The work program was discussed at a meeting of the department
"Technology"
Head of Department _____________________
Approved by the Academic Council of the Faculty of Technology and Vocational Pedagogical Education
"______" _____________________ Chairman __________________________
EXPLANATORY NOTE
Well
Target
Structure
The objectives of the lectures
Tasks of laboratory classes
Tasks of practical classes:
Section work
In the process of mastering the discipline, students take notes on the literature on the topics of the course, prepare abstracts, do homework, intermediate and final tests.
The teacher exercises all types of control: current, intermediate, final: current - at lectures, laboratory and practical (in the form of a survey, checking notes on the topic); intermediate - upon completion of the study of the module; final - upon completion of the course (final tests).
In the process of studying the discipline "Textile materials science" students shouldhave an idea: about the types of textile fibers and methods of obtaining textile materials, about the methods of researching materials for the clothing industry, about the place and role of the science "Textile materials science" in the modern textile and "fashion" industry; know: range of modern fabrics and materials for the manufacture of garments, the main parameters and properties of fibers used in the textile industry; classification of weaving weaves, the process of obtaining them and the properties that they give to the fabric; processes of technological finishing of fabrics, its features depending on the fibrous composition of the fabric; properties that this or that finish gives to the fabric; basic principles for determining the grade of fabric; basics of fabric standardization, principles of working with fabric articles and trade price lists; features of working with various textile materials; regulatory and technical documentation for the manufacture of clothing; basic principles of confectioning of textile materials; be able to: determine the fibrous composition and structure of the textile material; select technological modes of material processing in accordance with its textile characteristics; determine the appearance of the front and back side of the fabric, the fibrous composition, the direction of the warp and weft threads; draw up a confection map; own: organoleptic method for determining the fibrous composition of the material; laboratory methods for studying the properties of textile fibers and textile materials; the method of selecting material for the product in the confection map.
The outcome of the course is. The score is made up of many components. In the process of mastering the discipline, the teacher carries out rating control, which includes writing notes, doing homework, the results of intermediate and final tests, attendance, laboratory work. The total amount is credited.
1. ORGANIZATIONAL AND REGULATORY DOCUMENTATION
1.1. TRAINING PROGRAM
( working modular program)
1.1.1. Goals and objectives of the discipline
Well"Textile materials science" studies the structure and properties of materials used for the manufacture of garments; changes occurring in the structure and properties of materials under the influence of various factors in the production of garments and their operation, as well as the main types of materials and standard methods for assessing their quality.
Target course - to form students a holistic view of the materials of clothing production and promote the development of engineering thinking, as well as teach how to use in practice the basic methods of researching materials.
Structure course of textile materials science provides lectures, laboratory and practical classes.
The objectives of the lectures: to acquaint students with the basics of science "Textile materials science", with the main technological processes of textile production; develop the ability to draw independent conclusions from observations of factual material.
Tasks of laboratory classes: mastering the methods of researching textile materials and the principles of compiling normative and technological documentation, developing the ability to draw independent conclusions from observations.
Tasks of practical classes: checking students' understanding of the content of the recommended literature, studying various changes that occur in the structure and properties of materials under the influence of various factors.
Section work begins with a discussion of questions on a particular problem of the theoretical course. When preparing the proposed questions, students need to independently study the recommended literature and familiarize themselves with the content of the lecture on a given topic.
1.1.2. The content of the discipline
DC "Textile materials science"
The subject of the study course of textile materials science are the materials used for the manufacture of garments, as well as the structure and properties of these materials.
Thematic content of the course
Introduction
General information about the discipline, its goals, tasks. The place and importance of the discipline "Textile materials science" in the training of a specialist. Classification of textile materials by purpose, fiber composition. Modern trends in the development of science "Textile materials science".
1. Textile fibers
General information about textile fibers. The concept of "textile fiber". Properties of textile fibers.
natural fibres. Cotton. Raw cotton. Cotton fiber: structure, chemical composition, properties. Linen. Flax fiber: structure, chemical composition, properties. Wool. Wool fiber: structure, chemical composition, properties. Silk natural. Raw silk: receipt information. Silk fiber: structure, chemical composition, properties.
Fibers of chemical origin. Classification of chemical fibers. General information about the method of obtaining, scope. Artificial fibers: their types, chemical composition, basic properties, structure. Synthetic fibers: their types, chemical composition, properties, structure. Mineral fibers: their types, application, general characteristics.
2. Fundamentals of textile production technology
Yarn and threads. The concept of yarn and spinning. Basic operations of the spinning process. Spinning methods, spinning systems for cotton, linen, wool, natural silk, artificial fibers. Yarn classification. yarn properties. Yarn defects. Thread classification. Thread properties. Thread defects. Influence of qualitative indicators of yarn and threads on the quality of fabric.
Weaving. General information about fabric and weaving. The process of fabric formation on a loom. Types of weaving equipment. Defects in weaving production, their types and impact on the quality of the fabric.
Fabric finishing. General information about the finishing of fabrics, its purpose. Finishing of cotton fabrics. Technological operations of finishing: their types, purpose and essence. Dyes and other compositions for finishing fabrics, their use. Types and characteristics of patterns on fabrics, methods of applying patterns. Finish quality indicators. Linen finishing. Types of finishes, purpose and technological features. Finish quality indicators. Finishing of woolen fabrics. Features of finishing combed and cloth fabrics, basic technological operations. Special impregnations for certain types of fabrics. Finish quality indicators. Finishing of fabrics from natural silk. Finishing fabrics from chemical fibers. Types of finishing, technological operations of finishing, their purpose. Finishing features, taking into account the chemical composition and structure of the fabric. Special types of finishes.
3. Composition, structure and properties of tissues
Fabric structure. Classification of fabrics according to their fibrous composition. Methods for determining the fibrous composition of tissue. Organoleptic analysis as the main method of tissue research. Techniques of the organoleptic method for determining the fibrous composition of the tissue. Distinctive features of cotton fabrics; fabrics from natural and artificial silk; pure wool, wool blend and mixed fabrics.
General information about the structure of tissues. The concept of fabric. Density of the fabric. Fabric density indicators. Weaving weaves.
fabric properties. Influence of fiber composition, structure and finishing features on fabric properties. Classification of tissue properties. Geometric properties and surface density of the fabric. fabric thickness; factors affecting the formation of tissue thickness. Influence of fabric thickness on the choice of product model and technological operations.
Fabric width: standard, actual, rational. The mass of the fabric. Mechanical, physical, optical properties of tissue: types, meaning and characteristics. Technological properties of fabric, their characteristics.
4. Grade of fabrics
Evaluation of the quality of textile materials. General information about the normative and technical documentation that determines the grade of textile materials. Factors affecting the determination of the grade of fabric. Evaluation of tissue by physical and mechanical parameters. Evaluation of tissue for defects in appearance. Evaluation of fabric for color fastness.
5. Range of fabrics
Fabric standardization. Classification of fabrics by fibrous composition, according to purpose. Fabric article. Trade price list.
Assortment of dress fabrics.
Assortment of suit fabrics.
Assortment of coat fabrics.
Assortment of lining and interlining fabrics, specialty fabrics.
6. Assortment of materials for garments
Knitted fabric. The structure of the knitted fabric. Methods for producing knitted fabric. Features of knitwear finishing. Assortment of knitted fabrics. knitted fabric properties. Features of designing garments from knitted fabrics. Features of technological processing of knitwear.
Non-woven textile materials. General characteristics of nonwoven materials. Classification of nonwoven materials according to the method of production. The main technological processes for obtaining non-woven fabrics. Basic properties of nonwoven fabrics. Application area. Non-woven lining materials.
7. Confectioning of the package of materials for the product
Basic information. The concept of "confection". Confectioning principles. Basic requirements for the assembly of a package of materials for a product. Confection map as part of normative and technical documentation. The main stages of confectioning. Requirements for textile materials and accessories.
Confectioning of a package of materials for a light clothing product: selection of the main material; choice of finishing materials; selection of gasket materials; selection of fastening materials and accessories.
Confectioning a package of materials for an outerwear product: selection of the main material; choice of finishing materials; selection of lining materials; selection of gasket materials; selection of fastening materials and accessories.
1.1.3. Requirements for the level of mastering the content of the discipline
(requirements for knowledge, skills, acquired as a result of studying the discipline)
Students must generalize and deepen the knowledge gained, use the basic concepts and parameters of the structure and properties of materials, basic techniques and technical means testing materials, methods for determining and assessing their quality, analyze and determine the composition and structure of materials, measure and evaluate the parameters of the composition, structure and properties of materials, use testing equipment, measuring instruments in solving material science problems, formulate requirements for materials for garments , evaluate the suitability of materials for specific garments, taking into account their purpose and operating conditions.
Credit Requirements
When carrying out the test, writing notes, doing homework, the results of intermediate and final tests, attendance at classes, and defense of laboratory work are taken into account.
1.1.4. Educational-methodical map of the discipline
Textile materials science 80 hours
for students of the educational professional program
Full-time Technology and Entrepreneurship
Labor intensity |
section, topic | lecture course | Individual sessions | Independent work students | Forms of control |
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loans | Issues under study at a lecture | practical | laboratory | |||||||||
Introduction | General information about the discipline, its goals, tasks. The place and significance of the discipline "textile materials science" in the training of a specialist. Classification of textile materials by purpose, fiber composition. Modern trends in the development of science "textile materials science" | Checking homework in the lab |
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The concept of "textile fiber" | ||||||||||||
Properties of textile fibers: geometric, mechanical, physical, chemical | ||||||||||||
Cotton. Raw cotton. Cotton fiber: structure, chemical composition, properties |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Linen. Flax fiber: structure, chemical composition, properties |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Wool. Wool fiber: structure, chemical composition, properties. |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Silk natural. Raw silk: receipt information. Silk fiber: structure, chemical composition, properties. |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Classification of chemical fibers. General information about the method of obtaining, scope |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Artificial fibers: their types, chemical composition, basic properties, structure. |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Synthetic fibers: their types, chemical composition, properties, structure. |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Mineral fibers: their types, application, general characteristics. |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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The concept of yarn and spinning. Basic operations of the spinning process |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Spinning methods, spinning systems for cotton, linen, wool, natural silk, artificial fibers |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Yarn classification. yarn properties. Yarn defects |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Thread classification. Thread properties. Thread defects. | 1. Checking homework in the lab |
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General information about fabric and weaving |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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The process of forming fabric on a loom |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Types of weaving equipment. |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Weaving defects |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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General information about the finishing of fabrics, its purpose |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Finishing of cotton fabrics. Technological operations of finishing: their types, purpose and essence. Dyes and other compositions for finishing fabrics, their use. Types and characteristics of patterns on fabrics, methods of applying patterns. |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Linen finishing. Types of finishes, purpose and technological features. |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Finishing of woolen fabrics. Features of finishing combed and cloth fabrics, basic technological operations |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Finishing of fabrics from natural silk. Types of finishing, technological operations of finishing, their purpose. |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Finishing fabrics from chemical fibers. Types of finishing, technological operations of finishing, their purpose. |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Special types of finishes. |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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1. Checking homework in a practical lesson 3. Control of attendance at the lesson |
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Classification of fabrics by fibrous composition |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Methods for determining the fibrous composition of tissue. Distinctive features of cotton fabrics; fabrics from natural and artificial silk; pure wool, wool blend and mixed fabrics | 1. Checking homework in the lab 3. Control of attendance at lectures and laboratory classes |
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The concept of fabric. Density of the fabric. Fabric density indicators. |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Weaving weaves Classification of weaving weaves. Plain weaves. Finely patterned weaves. Combined weaves. Intricate weaves. Large-patterned weaves | 1. Checking homework in a practical lesson 3. Control of attendance at lectures and practical classes |
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Classification of fabric properties |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Geometric properties and surface density of the fabric. fabric thickness; factors affecting the formation of tissue thickness. Influence of fabric thickness on the choice of product model and technological operations. Fabric width: standard, actual, rational. The mass of the fabric. | 1. Checking homework in the lab 3. Control of attendance at lectures and laboratory classes |
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Mechanical, tissue properties: types, meaning and characteristics | 1. Checking homework in a practical lesson 3. Control of attendance at lectures and practical classes |
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Physical properties of fabric: types, meaning and characteristics. | 1. Checking homework in a practical lesson 3. Control of attendance at lectures and practical classes |
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Optical properties of fabric: types, meaning and characteristics. |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Electrical properties of tissue: types, meaning and characteristics. |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Wear resistance of fabrics | 1. Checking homework in a practical lesson 3. Control of attendance at lectures and practical classes |
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Determining the grade of textile materials | 1. Checking homework in a practical lesson 3. Control of attendance at lectures and practical classes |
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Evaluation of fabric by physical and mechanical indicators |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Evaluation of tissue for defects in appearance | 1. Checking homework in the lab 3. Control of attendance at lectures and laboratory classes |
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Fabric rating for color fastness |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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1. Checking homework in the lab 3. Control of attendance at the lesson |
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Fabric standardization |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Assortment of dress fabrics. | 1. Checking homework in a practical lesson 3. Control of attendance at lectures and practical classes |
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Assortment of shirt fabrics. | 1. Checking homework in a practical lesson 3. Control of attendance at lectures and practical classes |
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Assortment of suit fabrics. | 1. Checking homework in a practical lesson 3. Control of attendance at lectures and practical classes |
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Assortment of coat fabrics. | 1. Checking homework in a practical lesson 3. Control of attendance at lectures and practical classes |
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Assortment of raincoat fabrics and materials. | 1. Checking homework in a practical lesson 3. Control of attendance at lectures and practical classes |
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Lining range | 1. Checking homework in a practical lesson 3. Control of attendance at lectures and practical classes |
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Assortment of gasket materials | 1. Checking homework in a practical lesson 3. Control of attendance at lectures and practical classes |
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The structure of the knitted fabric |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Methods for obtaining knitted fabric |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Features of knitwear finishing |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Assortment of knitted fabrics | 1. Checking homework in a practical lesson 3. Control of attendance at lectures and practical classes |
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Properties of knitted fabric |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Features of technological processing of knitwear |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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General characteristics of nonwoven materials. Classification of nonwoven materials according to the method of production |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Main technological processes production of non-woven fabrics |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Basic properties of nonwoven materials. Application area | 1. Checking homework in a practical lesson 3. Control of attendance at lectures and practical classes |
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Nonwoven interlinings | 1. Checking homework in a practical lesson 3. Control of attendance at lectures and practical classes |
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The concept of "confection". Principles and basic requirements for the packaging of a package of materials for a product. Confection card. The main stages of confectioning. Requirements for textile materials and accessories. |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Confection of a package of materials for a light clothing product |
2. Control of attendance at the lecture |
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Confection of a package of materials for an outerwear product | 1. Checking homework in a practical lesson |
Materials Science
Sewing materials science studies the structure and properties of materials used to make garments.
Fabrics are widely used in everyday life. They make clothes and underwear. Various types of fabrics are used in the manufacture of many things necessary in our daily life.
Currently, a large number of different fibers are used, both natural (cotton, linen, wool, etc.) and chemical (viscose, acetate, nylon, lavsan, etc.).
This section contains information about the fibers listed, how fabrics are made.
natural fibers
natural fiber nature itself creates.
From ancient times to late XIX century, the only raw materials for the production of textile materials were natural fibers, which were obtained from various plants. At first it was the fibers of wild plants, and then the fibers of flax and hemp. With the development of agriculture, cotton began to be cultivated, which gives very good and durable fiber.
Fibers produced from plant stems are widely used, they are called bast. The fibers from the stems are mostly coarse, strong and tough - these are the fibers of kenaf, jute, hemp and other plants. Finer fibers are obtained from flax, from which fabrics for the manufacture of clothing and linen are produced.
Kenaf cultivated mainly in India, China, Iran, Uzbekistan and other countries. Kenaf fiber is highly hygroscopic and durable. Burlap, tarpaulin, twine, etc. are made from it.
Hemp- a very ancient culture, grown for fiber mainly in our country, India, China, etc. It grows wild in Russia, Mongolia, India, China. Fiber (hemp) is obtained from hemp stalks, from which marine ropes, ropes, and canvas are made.
Jute cultivated in tropical regions of Asia, Africa, America and Australia. Jute is grown in small areas in Central Asia. Jute fibers are used for the manufacture of technical, packaging, furniture fabrics and carpets.
And 
from plant fibers are the most famous cotton and linen.
Cotton is a very ancient crop. It began to be cultivated in India over 4000 years ago. Remains of cotton fabrics were found in the graves of ancient Peruvians excavated in the deserts of Peru and Mexico. This means that even earlier than in India, the Peruvians knew cotton and knew how to make fabrics from it.
Cotton called the fibers that cover the surface of the seeds of an annual cotton plant that grows in warm southern countries. The development of cotton fibers begins after the flowering of cotton during the formation of fruits (bolls). The length of cotton fibers ranges from 5 to 50 mm. Cotton collected and pressed into bales is called raw cotton.
During the primary processing of cotton, the fibers are separated from the seeds and cleaned of various impurities. First, the longest fibers (20-50 mm) are separated, then short or fluff (6-20 mm) and finally the down (less than 6 mm). The long fibers are used to make yarn, the down is used to make wadding and, when mixed with long cotton fibers, to make thick yarns. Fibers less than 12 mm long are chemically processed into cellulose to produce man-made fibres.
Wheat and flax are the most ancient cultivated plants. Flax began to be cultivated nine thousand years ago. In the mountainous regions of India, for the first time they began to make fabrics from it, beautiful and thin.
Seven thousand years ago, flax was already known in Assyria, Babylonia. From there he entered Egypt.
Linen fabrics have become a luxury item there, replacing the previously common woolen ones. Only Egyptian pharaohs, priests and nobles could afford clothes made from linen fabrics.
Later, the Phoenicians, and then the Greeks and Romans, began to make sails for their ships from linen.
Our ancestors, the Slavs, loved snow-white heavy linen fabrics. They knew how to cultivate flax, setting aside the best lands for crops. Among the Slavs, linen fabrics served as clothing for the common people.
Linen fibers make a heavy, durable white fabric. It is great for tablecloths, wearables and bed linen.
And flax, sown thickly and removed from the field during flowering, gives a very delicate fiber, which goes to thin and light cambric.
Linen is an annual herbaceous plant that will give the fiber of the same name. Flax fiber is located in the stem of the plant and can reach 1 meter. Flax is harvested during the period of early yellow ripeness. The resulting raw material for the production of yarn (threads) is subjected to further processing.
The primary processing of flax consists of soaking the flax straw, drying the straw, washing and scutching to separate the impurities.
Yarn is obtained from cleaned and sorted fibers.
Positive properties of cotton fabrics: good hygienic and heat-shielding properties, strength, light fastness. Under the action of water, cotton fibers even swell and increase strength, that is, they are not afraid of any washing. Fabrics look good and are easy to care for.
Due to the fact that cotton fabrics have good hygroscopicity and high air permeability, and linen fabrics have higher hygroscopicity and medium air permeability, they are used for the manufacture of bed linen and household clothing.
Disadvantages of cotton fabrics: strong wrinkling (fabrics lose their beautiful appearance when worn), low abrasion resistance, therefore low wear.
Disadvantages of linen fabrics: Strong wrinkling, low drape, stiffness, high shrinkage.
natural fibers animal origin - wool and silk. Fabrics made from such fibers are environmentally friendly and therefore represent a certain value for a person and have a positive effect on his health.
Since time immemorial, people have used wool to make fabrics. Since the very time they began to engage in cattle breeding. The wool of sheep and goats was used, and in South America and lam.
During the Mongol-Tibetan expedition of 1923-1926, the well-known Russian geographer-researcher P.K. Kozlov unearthed mound burials, in which he discovered ancient woolen fabrics. Even after lying underground for several thousand years, some of them surpassed modern threads in terms of strength.
The bulk of the wool is obtained from sheep, with fine-fleeced merino sheep producing the best wool. Fine-fleeced sheep have been known since the 2nd century BC, when the Romans crossed Colchian rams with Italian sheep and bred the Tarentine breed of sheep with brown or black wool. In the 1st century, by crossing the Tarentine sheep with African rams in Spain, the first merinos were obtained. From this first herd, all other Merino breeds eventually descended: French, Saxon, etc.
Sheep are sheared once or in some cases twice a year. From one sheep they get from 2 to 10 kilograms of wool. From 100 kilograms of raw wool, 40-60 kilograms of pure wool are obtained, which is sent for further processing.
From the wool of other animals, goat mohair wool is widely used, obtained from Angora goats, originating from the Turkish town of Angora.
For the manufacture of outerwear and blankets, camel hair is used, obtained by shearing or combing during camel molting.
High resilient cushioning materials are obtained from horsehair.
H 
To the untrained eye, almost all wool appears the same. But a highly qualified specialist is able to distinguish over seven thousand varieties!
In the XIV-XV centuries, wool intended for spinning was combed with a wooden comb, which had several rows of steel teeth. As a result, the fibers in the bundle were arranged in parallel, which is very important for their uniform stretching and twisting during spinning.
From the combed fiber, strong, beautiful threads were obtained, from which a good-quality fabric was produced that did not wear out for a long time.
Wool- this is the hairline of animals: sheep, goats, camels. The main mass of wool (95-97%) is given by sheep. The wool cover is removed from the sheep with special scissors or machines. The length of wool fibers is from 20 to 450 mm. They cut off an almost whole inseparable mass, which is called a rune.
Types of wool fibers- this is hair and wool, they are long and straight, and fluff - it is softer and more crimped.
Before being sent to textile factories, wool is subjected to primary processing: sorted, that is, fibers are selected according to quality; shake - loosen and remove clogging impurities; washed with hot water, soap and soda; dried in tumble dryers. Then yarn is made, and fabrics are made from it.
In the finishing industry, fabrics are dyed in various colors or apply various patterns to fabrics. Wool fabrics are produced in plain dyed, multicolored and printed.
Wool fibers have the following properties: have high hygroscopicity, that is, they absorb moisture well, elastic (products wrinkle a little), resistant to sun exposure (higher than that of cotton and linen).
To check the wool fiber, you need to set fire to a piece of fabric. During combustion, the wool fiber is sintered, the resulting sintered ball is easily rubbed with fingers. In the process of burning, the smell of burnt feather is felt. In this way, you can determine the fabric: it is pure wool or artificial.
Woolen fibers are used to make dresses, suits and coats. Woolen fabrics go on sale under the following names: drape, cloth, tights, gabardine, cashmere, etc. 
There are several species of butterflies whose caterpillars weave cocoons before turning into pupae, using secretions from special glands. These butterflies are called silkworms. The silkworm is mainly bred.
Silkworms develop in several stages: egg (grain), caterpillar (larva), chrysalis and butterfly. The caterpillar develops in 25-30 days and goes through five instars separated by molts. Its length by the end of development reaches 8, and the thickness is 1 centimeter. At the end of the fifth instar, the silk glands of caterpillars are filled with silk mass. Silk - a thin paired thread of the protein substance of fibroin - is squeezed out in a liquid state, and then hardens in air.
The formation of a cocoon lasts 3 days, after which the fifth molt occurs, and the caterpillar turns into a chrysalis, and after 2-3 weeks into a butterfly that lives 10-15 days. The female butterfly lays grena, and a new cycle of development begins.
Up to 30,000 caterpillars are obtained from one box of grena weighing 29 grams, eating about a ton of foliage and giving four kilograms of natural silk.
To obtain silk, the natural course of development of the silkworm is interrupted. At harvesting stations, the collected cocoons are dried, then treated with hot air or steam to prevent the process of turning pupae into butterflies.
At silk factories, cocoons are unwound by joining together several cocoon threads.
Natural silk- These are thin threads that are obtained by unwinding the cocoons of the silkworm caterpillar. A cocoon is a dense, tiny egg-like shell that the caterpillar twists tightly around itself before turning into a chrysalis. Four stages of silkworm development - egg, caterpillar, chrysalis, butterfly.
Collect cocoons in 8-9 days from the beginning of curling and send for primary processing. The purpose of the primary processing is to unwind the cocoon thread and connect the threads of several cocoons. The length of the cocoon thread is from 600 to 900 m. Such a thread is called raw silk. The primary processing of silk includes the following operations: treatment of cocoons with hot steam to soften the silk glue; winding threads from several cocoons at the same time. In textile factories, raw silk is used to produce fabric. Silk fabrics are produced by plain-dyed, multi-colored, printed.
Silk fibers have the following properties: they have good hygroscopicity and air permeability, less resistant to sunbeams than other natural fibers. Silk burns just like wool. Products made of natural silk are very pleasant to wear due to their good hygienic properties.
Chemical fibers
Since ancient times, for the production of fabrics, people used those fibers that nature gave them. At first, these were fibers of wild plants, then fibers of hemp, flax, and also animal hair. With the development of agriculture, people began to grow cotton, which gives a very durable fiber.
But natural raw materials have their drawbacks, natural fibers are too short and require complex technological processing. And, people began to look for raw materials from which it would be possible to obtain fabric in a cheap way, warm like wool, light and beautiful like silk, practical like cotton.
Today chemical fibers can be represented as the following diagram:
Now more and more new types of chemical fibers are being synthesized in laboratories, and not a single specialist can enumerate their vast multitude. Scientists managed to replace even wool fiber - it is called nitron.
Textile processing.
The production of chemical fibers includes 5 stages:
Receipt and pre-treatment of raw materials.
Preparation of spinning solution or melt.
Thread forming.
Cotton and bast fibers contain cellulose. Several methods were developed to obtain a solution of cellulose, forcing it through a narrow hole (die) and removing the solvent, after which threads similar to silk were obtained. Acetic acid, alkaline copper hydroxide solution, sodium hydroxide, and carbon disulfide were used as solvents. The resulting threads are named accordingly:
acetate, copper ammonia, viscose.
When spinning from a solution using the wet method, the streams fall into the solution of the precipitation bath, where the polymer is released in the idea of the finest filaments.
The large group of filaments emerging from the spinnerets is drawn, twisted together, and wound as a complex filament onto a cartridge. The number of holes in the spinneret in the production of complex textile yarns can be from 12 to 100.
In the production of staple fibers, the spinneret can have up to 15,000 holes. A flagellum of fibers is obtained from each spinneret. The tows are connected into a tape, which, after pressing and drying, is cut into bundles of fibers of any given length. Staple fibers are processed into yarn in their pure form or mixed with natural fibers.
Synthetic fibers are made from polymeric materials. Fiber-forming polymers are synthesized from petroleum products:
ammonia, etc.
By changing the composition of the feedstock and how it is processed, synthetic fibers can be given unique properties that natural fibers do not have. Synthetic fibers are obtained mainly from the melt, for example, fibers from polyester, polyamide, pressed through spinnerets.
Depending on the type of chemical raw material and the conditions of its formation, it is possible to produce fibers with a variety of predetermined properties. For example, the stronger you pull the jet at the moment it exits the spinneret, the stronger the fiber is. Sometimes chemical fibers even outperform steel wire of the same thickness.
Among the new fibers that have already appeared, one can note fibers - chameleons, the properties of which change in accordance with changes in the environment. Hollow fibers have been developed into which a liquid containing colored magnets is poured. Using a magnetic pointer, you can change the pattern of a fabric made from such fibers.
Since 1972, the production of aramid fibers has been launched, which are divided into two groups. Aramid fibers of one group (nomex, conex, phenylone) are used where resistance to flame and thermal effects is required. The second group (Kevlar, Terlon) has high mechanical strength combined with low weight.
High mechanical strength and good resistance to chemicals are ceramic fibers, the main form of which consists of a mixture of silicon oxide and aluminum oxide. Ceramic fibers can be used at temperatures around 1250°C. They are distinguished by high chemical resistance, and radiation resistance allows them to be used in astronautics.
Table of properties of chemical fibers
|
crimp |
Strength |
Wrinkle |
|||
|
Viscose |
burns well, gray ash, burnt paper smell. |
||||
|
Acetate |
decreases when wet |
less than viscose |
quickly burns with a yellow flame, a melted ball remains |
||
|
very small |
melts to form a solid ball |
||||
|
very small |
burns slowly, forms a solid dark ball |
||||
|
very small |
burns with flashes, a dark influx is formed |
Getting fabric
With 
Since ancient times in Russia, spinning has been a special ritual, in addition to being one of the main occupations of the female half of the population, when girls and women gathered for an important craft, whiled away days and evenings behind a spindle or a spinning wheel, had sincere conversations, sang their favorite songs, and sometimes here but adding new melodies, endowing them with words that characterize their work: “fine spinner”, “gold sewer”, etc. The first technical devices that facilitate labor were met with enthusiasm by a person.
A special place in the house was occupied by a spinning wheel - an indispensable companion of Russian women. An elegant spinning wheel was given by a good fellow as a gift to the bride, a husband to his wife as a keepsake, the father of a daughter. The gift-spinning wheel was kept for a lifetime, passed on to the next generation. In different areas, spinning wheels differed in shape and design, decorated with carvings, paintings, or a combination of both. The shape of the spinning wheel was decorated with protrusions - “towns”, below - with “earrings”, “necklaces”. The decoration of the spinning wheel often resembled a festively dressed female figure, decorated with strings of beads. The spinners of the Russian North loved images of the big sun and tried to attach a tow (a ball of wool that was spun) to this part of the blade. Until recently, a spinning wheel and a loom always lived in every rural house. Autumn will come, work in the field will end - work in the house begins. First you need to spin flax and wool - turn it into threads.
Flax was crushed, ruffled, scratched. There was no less trouble with wool. As a result of all these preparatory work, a tow was obtained - a bundle of linen or wool fibers. In order for the tow to turn into a thread, it was tied to a spinning wheel, then the fibers were gradually pulled out, while twisting them, and this was the thread. The finished thread was wound on a spindle - a long stick with sharp ends and a cornered middle.
P 
dressing- hard work. The thickness and strength of the thread, and hence the future fabric, depended on the skill of the spinner. To facilitate this work, they came up with a spinning wheel with a wheel - it was set in motion with a foot pedal, the thread was wound “by itself”, it was possible to pull and twist the fibers with both hands - the work went faster, and the thread turned out better.
Now you could do weaving- to make fabric from threads. This work also required great attention, skill, diligence. The weavers worked on hand looms, things went rather slowly. Since the canvas was not wide - only 37 cm - it was required quite a lot. During the winter, the hostess had to weave so much linen to be enough for the whole family - after all, she would be able to take up this work again only next winter. The peasants could not buy fabric - they could not afford it, and there was nowhere to go. So everyone walked around in clothes sewn from homespun cloth.
Now machines are spinning and weaving. But sometimes, on long winter evenings, in some Russian houses one can still hear the buzzing of a wheeled spinning wheel and the tapping of a handloom.
P 
row- this is a thread obtained by twisting individual fibers. The process of making yarn is called spinning. Spinning takes place in the following sequence: loosening the fibers, scutching, carding, leveling (ribbon formation), pre-spinning (roving formation) and the spinning process itself.
Yarn is single-stranded, twisted (twisted from two, three or more single threads) and shaped (twisted from three or more threads with the formation of loops, knots or spirals).
Purpose of spinning- obtaining a yarn of uniform thickness.
Next, the yarn goes to the weaving factory, where the fabric is obtained.
Textile- This is a material that is obtained on looms by interlacing warp and weft yarns with each other.
Longitudinal threads in tissues are called main, or basis. The transverse filaments in tissues are called weft, or duck.
The warp threads are very strong, long, thin, and do not change their length when stretched. Weft threads are less durable, thicker, short. When stretched, the weft threads increase in length.
Edges that do not fray on both sides of the fabric are called selvedges.
The warp threads can be identified by the following features:
1) Along the edge.
2) According to the degree of stretching - the warp thread stretches less.
3) The warp thread is straight, and the weft thread is crimped.
4) By sound - the sound is sonorous on the basis, and deaf on the duck.
Production steps for making fabric:
Fiber > threads (yarn) > weaving > gray cloth > finishing > finished cloth
The fabric removed from the loom is called sour. It is not used to make clothes, it requires finishing. The purpose of finishing is to give a beautiful appearance to the fabric and improve its quality.
Finishing of fabrics is carried out at the dyeing and finishing factory.
Basic Fabric Finishing Processes
1) pre-finishing:
singeing (removal of fibers from the surface),
desizing (removal of starch),
decoction (removal of contaminants),
mereization (strength increase),
rinsing,
· bleaching;
2) dyeing;
3) printing;
4) final finishing:
sizing (increased wear resistance),
broadening (alignment),
calendering (smoothing, glossing).
Special finishes are also available.
The most interesting is the process of printing fabrics, as a result of which multi-colored patterns are obtained on them.
After finishing, fabrics can be:
bleached - fabric obtained after bleaching;
plain dyed - fabric dyed in one specific color;
printed - fabric with a pattern printed on the surface;
multicolored - fabric obtained on a loom by interweaving threads of different colors;
melange - fabric obtained on a loom by interlacing threads twisted from fibers of different colors.
AT 
In the process of fabric formation on a loom, the warp and weft threads can intertwine in different ways.
A huge number of weaves are created by the different sequence of alternation of warp and weft threads.
H 
the most common is plain weave
, which is formed by interlacing the warp and weft threads through one. Cotton fabrics, as well as some linen and silk fabrics, have a plain weave.
Twill weave characterized by the presence of diagonal stripes on the fabric, going from bottom to top to the right. Twill weave fabric is denser and more stretchable. This weave is used in the production of dress, costume and lining fabrics.
BUT 
weave (satin) weave
gives fabrics a smooth, shiny surface that is resistant to abrasion. The face covering can be formed with warp (satin) or weft (satin weave) threads.
Fabrics have front and back sides. The front side of the fabric is determined by the following features:
On the right side of the fabric, the printed pattern is brighter than on the wrong side.
On the front side of the fabric, the weave pattern is clearer.
The front side is smoother, as all weaving defects are brought to the wrong side.
Weave images
Fabrics and care
Acrylic
Synthetic fabric, in appearance very similar to wool. Things from it are very warm, soft and protected from moths. Acrylic does not lose shape, which is why it is often used in combination with other fibers to create beautiful and dimensionally stable products. Acrylic fibers are well dyed, so things from it look bright and do not fade for a long time. The disadvantages of acrylic fabric include low hygroscopicity and the formation of pellets. Acrylic products do not require special care, they can be washed both manually and by machine.
Acetate
Such tissues are composed of cellulose acetate. They have a slightly shiny surface and look like natural silk. They keep their shape well and almost do not wrinkle. They do not absorb moisture well and melt at high heat, so these fabrics are well suited for pleating. Fabrics containing acetate are washed by hand or in a machine on a gentle cycle. Fabrics containing triacetate can be washed on a normal cycle at 70 degrees. These fabrics must not be tumble dried. They need to be hung up to dry. They dry quickly and require almost no ironing. If you want to iron them, then do it with the wrong side of a warm iron. Triacetate can be ironed on wool or silk.
Velours
The general name for a material that has a velvety front surface. The characteristics of the material depend on the density and length of the pile, but usually all velor products are soft and comfortable to wear, they do not lose their shape and warm well in cold weather. However, the pile of this fabric tends to wear out quickly. Velor requires careful care. It cannot be bleached or cleaned with strong chemicals. We recommend hand washing at a temperature not exceeding 30 ° C and ironing from the wrong side.
Viscose
Viscose is a fiber obtained by chemical means, its properties are as close as possible to natural materials. Often, people who are poorly versed in fabrics and materials can mistake viscose for cotton, wool or silk. The qualities that viscose possesses depend on the additives during creation. Viscose perfectly absorbs moisture, but its strength is much lower than that of cotton. This type of fabric is often used in the production of children's clothing. Viscose is great for both winter and summer wear. Its excellent breathability allows the skin to receive enough oxygen, which has a positive effect on skin health and a sense of overall comfort. Wash viscose in the machine or by hand. If you decide to use a washing machine, then choose a gentle mode and a temperature of no more than 30 degrees. Never twist or wring things out of viscose in a centrifuge. From such treatment, clothes will lose their original appearance. Viscose products can be hung to dry without wringing, or rolled up in a sheet and wrung out gently. Viscose must not be dried in a dryer. When ironing viscose clothes, select the "silk" setting.
Felt
A very dense and durable material made from natural or synthetic fibers. Natural felt is made from felted wool, most often from sheep. Felt has low thermal conductivity, but at the same time it passes air well.
Cashmere
fluff mountain goat, combed or plucked by hand. From this fluff, a noble matte-shiny fabric is obtained, which has always been highly valued. Cashmere (also called "pashmina") is made up of the finest threads, which is why they are so soft and pleasant to the touch. In addition, this fabric is very light, but it can retain heat for a long time. Washing cashmere is recommended only by hand.
Linen fabric is one of the oldest in the world, and in ancient times it was quite expensive. Linen is highly hygroscopic, absorbs moisture quickly and dries out just as quickly. In winter, things made of linen warm, and in summer they help to survive the heat more easily. Linen is several times stronger than cotton, so clothes made from this material can last for a long time. Linen wrinkles, but again not as much as cotton. To avoid this, cotton, viscose or wool fibers are added to it. From frequent washings does not lose its softness.
Flax tolerates boiling well. But, the dyed fabric must be washed at a temperature of 60 degrees, and finished at 40 and in a gentle washing mode. If you wash it in the machine, you can use a universal washing powder: for unbleached and colored linen, it is better to take a powder for fine fabrics without bleach. When drying in a dryer, flax may shrink. Linen is always ironed with moisture and at the highest temperature.
Lurex
Metallized (aluminum, copper, brass or nickel) thread in fabric. Lurex is usually used in combination with other fibers, thanks to which the product acquires a glossy effect.
Modal
Cellulose fibre. It is stronger than viscose, and in terms of hygroscopicity it is one and a half times superior to cotton. After washing, modal products always remain soft, do not fade and almost do not “shrink”, so they are easy to care for. Modal is often used in combination with other fibers. It gives things a soft sheen and makes them softer and more pleasant to the touch.
Polyamide
Polyamide is a synthetic fiber. Products made of polyamide are very popular, because its properties help clothes to retain their original attractive appearance for a long time. Among the main advantages of a fabric such as polyamide, one can single out excellent breathability and quick drying. Most often, polyamide is used in the production of sportswear. Things made of polyamide have high strength, softness and lightness.
Clothes with the addition of polyamide can be washed in a conventional washing machine. The optimum temperature for a streak is 40 degrees. Like most synthetic fabrics, polyamide does not tolerate tumble drying well. Things from it should be hung wet on the dryer. Polyamide should be ironed at the lowest heat and without steam.
polyacrylic
Polyacrylic is a synthetic fiber that makes clothes look like wool. Distinctive features of polyacrylic can be considered softness, lightness and wear resistance. Polyacryl is most often used in the manufacture of winter clothing, because due to its properties it is able to retain heat. Things made of polyacrylic do not require special care; they, like all synthetic fabrics, are easy to handle. The main thing is to choose the right mode of washing and ironing. The water temperature during washing should be approximately 30 degrees.
Polyester
Synthetic polyester fiber - polyester among all similar fabrics differs in the greatest functionality. This is a very durable fabric that makes any thing durable and wear-resistant. Clothing made from polyester has a number of properties. It is lightweight, quick-drying and retains its original shape for a long time. It practically does not wrinkle, which is important in the conditions of modern life.
Taking care of polyester clothing is quite easy. It can be washed in the washing machine on a normal cycle at 40 degrees. If the washing temperature is higher, then there is a risk of creases and dents, which are then almost impossible to remove.
satin
Thick shiny cotton fabric. Satin has a silky surface and is therefore very pleasant to the touch. The product made of satin, even after many washes, will not fade and will not lose its original appearance.
Sintepon
Good insulating lining for jackets, quilted coats. It is a non-woven material obtained from synthetic fibers. It is much lighter than batting, elastic, does not lose shape and does not fall off. The synthetic winterizer is non-hygroscopic, thanks to which it does not get wet much and dries easily. In addition, it is produced in white and does not shed when washing insulated things and does not leave stains on the fabric of the top. Unlike natural down, it can be washed both by hand and in the washing machine in the delicate wash mode at a temperature of 30 degrees. It dries quickly, retains its shape and does not lose volume. If necessary, it can be ironed with a slightly heated iron.
Knitwear
Knitwear (fr. tricotage) is a textile material or finished product, the structure of which is interconnected loops, in contrast to the fabric, which is formed as a result of the mutual interweaving of two systems of threads located in two mutually perpendicular directions. Knitted fabric is characterized by extensibility, elasticity and softness. Knitwear made of cotton, wool, chemical fibers and their mixtures should be washed in warm water up to 40 degrees in soapy water, using mild detergents specially designed for washing knitwear.
Flannel
Soft double-sided lightly brushed cotton fabric. It retains heat well, is very soft to the touch, due to which it is widely used for sewing children's products (diapers, clothes) and women's clothing (robes, shirts). In addition, bed linen is sewn from it, which perfectly warms in the cold season.
Cotton
Cotton is one of the best fabrics with a lot of advantages. Children's clothes are always made only from cotton. Cotton is easy to dye, is able to provide good breathability, it is soft and pleasant to the body. Among the shortcomings, several things can be distinguished: it wrinkles quite easily, cannot retain heat, which means it is not suitable for winter clothes, and also has the properties of turning yellow from light. Non-colored cotton can be washed in a washing machine at a temperature of 95 degrees, colored - at 40. For white cotton, you can take a universal washing powder, for colored cotton - a special one for washing fine fabrics or without a clarifier. Drying in a dryer washing machine can cause severe shrinkage. The finished cotton fabric after washing, without squeezing, must be hung out to dry, and then ironed in the “wool” mode. Other cotton fabrics are best ironed when not completely dry.
Chiffon
Silky fabric made from natural or synthetic fibres. Chiffon is weightless and transparent, so most often festive things of a light airy silhouette are sewn from it. Chiffon products need careful care, as it is a rather thin and delicate fabric.
Silk
Natural silk has always been considered one of the most noble and expensive materials. Silk has a rare and unique property for natural fabrics - thermoregulation. It is able to maintain the optimal temperature of the human body, changing its properties depending on the time of year and the external influence of the weather. It can provide good breathability in summer and keep you warm in winter. In addition, it has long been proven that silk bedding has preventive properties against the occurrence of diseases such as arthritis, rheumatism, skin and cardiovascular diseases. Silk evaporates moisture very quickly and dries, but retains traces of stains on clothes, so you need to be extremely careful when handling it. Silk is considered to be a very light and airy fabric, but in fact it depends solely on the way it is made. There are several types of silk weave that make it either light or heavy. High-quality silk practically does not wrinkle. When washing, any silk sheds a lot, so it should only be washed by hand at 30 degrees and with a mild detergent. A silk thing must be rinsed well, first in warm, then in cold water. You can add a little vinegar to the last rinse water to freshen up the paint. Silk should not be rubbed, squeezed, twisted, or dried in a dryer. Wet items are carefully wrapped in a cloth, slightly squeezed out of the water and hung or laid out in a horizontal position. When ironing, you must select the appropriate mode on the iron panel. Remember that silk should not be sprayed with water, this may cause stains on it.
Wool
Fabrics made from wool are the basis for creating warm winter clothes. Wool perfectly retains heat and can reliably protect against freezing even at the lowest temperatures. Clothes made of wool practically do not wrinkle and even tend to smooth out if, for example, a woolen item has been hanging in the closet on a hanger for a long time. Woolen fabrics can stretch, especially when exposed to hot water. The advantages of woolen fabrics include the fact that various kinds of odors quickly disappear from it: cigarette smoke, sweat, and so on.
It is recommended to wash woolen clothes exclusively by hand and with special means. The water temperature during washing should not exceed 30 degrees. After washing, woolen clothes should not be twisted or dried in a dryer. Just lay the item horizontally to dry.
Elastane
Elastane is a synthetic polyurethane fiber whose main property is extensibility. Elastane is fantastically strong, thin enough and wear-resistant. Typically, elastane is used as an addition to the main fabrics to give the garment certain properties. Things with a small percentage of elastane sit better on the figure, they are tight, but after stretching they easily return to their original shape. Elastane is quite resistant to various kinds of external influences. Clothing that includes elastane can last quite a long time. Also, the undoubted advantage of things with elastane is that they practically do not wrinkle.
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