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Cartridges for perforators: varieties, device, disassembly. Keyless drill chuck Keyless or turnkey drill chuck

A drill is an indispensable tool in the arsenal of a home master or a professional. This equipment allows you to drill holes of various thicknesses. There are several types of such tools. Today there are both manual and electric drills. Every master should know how to use such a tool correctly.

In the process of long-term operation, the equipment may fail. How to change the cartridge for a drill, you should find out before starting work. In this case, even a beginner will be able to properly repair his instrument.

User manual

Working with a drill assumes that the master has carefully read the instruction manual for this tool. This will prevent a lot of damage. You should also consider the type of tool. Hand and electric drills are on sale today. They may differ in size, power and additional features.

Before working with a drill, it is necessary to examine the wall for the presence of communications hidden in its thickness. It can be electrical wires or pipes. A metal detector will help to detect such objects. The hole will always be slightly larger than the diameter of the drill. This must be taken into account when choosing fasteners.

It should be ensured that when drilling (especially metal), the drill does not slip. This will prevent it from breaking. For ceramic surfaces, it is recommended to apply a patch at the drilling site. The drill should be perpendicular to the wall.

Cartridge types

There are several types of cartridges. This must be taken into account before repairing the instrument. In electric drills, quick-release chucks are most often used. They allow you to easily change drills in the process. This kind of cartridge, for example, has an electric drill "Makita9raquo;," Bosch9raquo;, "Hitachi9raquo; etc. You should not buy cheap models with such a device. They quickly fall into disrepair.

For impact drills chucks are used. They are stable even when working in difficult conditions. The installation of the drill is carried out in such systems with a special key.

There is also a third category of cartridges. These are SDS collet chucks. There are 2 grooves in their shank. In this case, the drill is screwed into it and fixed with a locking ball. Also in this cartridge there are 4 grooves. Two of them are needed for the guide wedges. The other two grooves provide a secure fixation of the equipment. In such a chuck, the spindle is automatically locked after installation.

Mount type

Considering the types of drill cartridges. not to mention the ways of their fastening. There are two main methods. Fastening can be done with threaded connection or on a cone.

In the first version, there is a thread on the shaft and the inner channel. It can be metric or inch (depending on the manufacturer). To make the connection strong, a special screw is installed on the shaft inside. It has a left hand thread. It is unscrewed clockwise.

In the second version of fixation, a Morse taper is used. The end of the shaft has a characteristic shape. It is made in the form of a cone. It has the same form internal channel. It is at the end of the shaft that the cartridge is installed. This mounting option is more common in screwdrivers.

Marking

When repairing a drill, you can determine the type of fastening of the cartridge by marking. If the system has a threaded connection, the corresponding information will be printed on the housing. Metric thread is indicated by the letter "M9raquo;. The number after the letter indicates the connection diameter. It also indicates the maximum diameter of the drill chuck and its minimum value shank (for example, range 1-15 mm). The last digit, which is indicated in the marking, indicates the thread pitch.

For the inch system, the designation in the UNF marking is used. Before proceeding with the repair of equipment, it is necessary to carefully check whether the mounting of the new part complies with the parameters set by the manufacturer. Almost all foreign instruments use the inch system.

The conical connection is marked with the letter "B9raquo; and a number (this is the size of the end of the shaft). You should also pay attention to this indicator when choosing a new part.

When should the cartridge be changed?

When repairing a Makita9raquo;, Hitachi9raquo;, Stanley9raquo;, Bosch9raquo; drill, you should first read the manufacturer's instructions. This will help you get the job done well. The chuck must hold the drill firmly. This allows you to drill holes with a certain accuracy.

Over time, the clamping mechanism wears out. This also applies to the seat of the cartridge on the shaft. He starts hitting. The working area during the operation of the equipment begins to fluctuate. In this case, the hole is obtained with deviations both in diameter and in location.

The wear of the mechanism does not allow the drill to be firmly clamped in the chuck. It will stop when the load increases. To fix such problems, you will have to replace the clamping mechanism.

Thread Chuck Replacement

Replacing a chuck with a drill must be carried out in accordance with the type of construction. To dismantle the threaded connection, use a screwdriver. With its help, the spindle screw is unscrewed. It is inside the drill. The screw must be unscrewed completely and removed from the spindle. This item has a left hand thread. Therefore, it should be unscrewed clockwise.

The cartridge, on the contrary, has a right-hand thread. To remove it, you will need to unscrew this structural element counterclockwise.

Sometimes the screw is very tight. Manually dismantling it can be quite difficult. In this case, it is enough to tap the screwdriver with a hammer when it is installed in the groove on the fastener. You can also use a gas or open-end wrench. The first of them should grab the chuck, and the second should fix the spindle.

Difficulties when replacing a threaded chuck

Sometimes even a key for a drill chuck cannot help to dismantle the tool design. In this case, you can use several more approaches. If the clamping jaws of the chuck work, a larger hexagon can be used. This will help you put in more effort. In this case, it is necessary to fix the spindle with an open-end wrench.

The design of the chuck of modern electric drills does not imply the use additional equipment. However, this does not mean at all that it will be easier to change the cartridge to them. The clamping mechanism in this case is quite difficult to dismantle.

Sometimes you need to disassemble the body of the tool. This will allow you to reach the spindle hidden inside it. When assembled, this element can be hidden deep in the body. After dismantling and replacing the cartridge, the structure is assembled into reverse order. This does not require additional keys.

If for some reason the screw inside is damaged, it can be replaced. In this case, it is recommended to purchase a cartridge adapter. It is sold for a cam-type tool. The adapter comes with a screw.

Cone chuck replacement

Considering how to change the chuck for drills. a variety such as a conical clamping mechanism should be considered. In this case, the procedure will be quite simple. In this case, you can use a special device. It is used to dismantle bearings.

To remove the cone-type clamping mechanism, the drill is placed vertically. Its drill should be pointing down. The entire surface of the cartridge must be tapped with a hammer. In this case, the clamping mechanism will gradually begin to break out of its seat.

The conical connection must then be cleaned and sanded with fine sandpaper. After that, the new cartridge will easily fall into place. It is fixed with a light hammer blow from above.

Causes of problems with the clamping mechanism

A drill, the instructions for use of which should be studied by the master before starting work, requires proper operation. In this case, many problems can be avoided.

Today, most electrical varieties of such equipment are equipped with an SDS type cartridge. It was developed by Bosch9raquo;. This device is not very accurate. However, this mechanism allows you to drill holes even in hard materials. In this case, the work of the tool is carried out with a blow. In this case, drilling accuracy will not be achieved. For this, a special adapter is used.

If you need to drill an exact hole in wood, metal, plastic, a special nozzle is used. It is produced for both keyless and cam chucks.

It should be remembered that the drill cannot be milled. In this case, the cartridge will not be able to withstand the side load. It also requires attention right choice drill, its sharpening, as well as marking the center of drilling (using a core).

Drill Maintenance

Periodically, the tool needs to be serviced, old parts changed, and moving parts lubricated. In this case, you also need to learn how to change the cartridge for drills. The cone cartridge must be turned with the nozzle up. It is covered with wooden gaskets and clamped in a vise.

The nut is unscrewed with a gas wrench and the bearing is dismantled. The puck is pulled out. Next, the cartridge can be removed from the vise. The adjusting sleeve is twisted by hand. Cams need to get out of the guides.

After dismantling, all parts of the clamping mechanism must be inspected, worn parts should be replaced. Further, the mechanism is assembled in the reverse order. All moving parts are lubricated with grease.

Drill chucks for drills - dimensions

All users of drills sooner or later are concerned with such issues related to the drill chuck:

what is the maximum diameter of the shank drill it can clamp
what is the minimum diameter of the shank drill it can clamp
what is his seat

The first and second points will be of interest, if necessary, to use drills or nozzles of various diameters. And the third - when there is a need to replace the cartridge.

This article will clearly explain all sizes of drill chucks to help users understand these issues. I note that all of the following applies equally to both keyless and key chucks.

Maximum drill shank diameter

This dimension indicates how wide the jaws of the chuck open.

According to this parameter, drill chucks can have the following maximum dimensions:

At the same time, the first three sizes are very rare. Other diameters are much more common.

A huge number of cartridges of any size according to the most low price m s free shipping to your region

It is easy to guess that the manufacturer selects the maximum clamped shank diameter for a particular drill based on its power and dimensions. It would be ridiculous to install a 16 mm chuck on a small 300 W drill, as well as a 10 mm chuck on a kilowatt model. Although it is quite possible to do this, since, for example, there are kilowatt drills with a 1/2 ″ seat, where a cartridge with a 16 mm clamp initially stands, and there are 10 mm cartridges with the same fit. Well, landings will be discussed below in the appropriate section.

With regards to the maximum clamping diameter, this issue begins to disturb the user if he fails to clamp a nozzle or drill with a larger diameter than his drill model allows. Well, in such a situation, you can choose a suitable cartridge, but you should not get carried away with working with a large diameter landing, since, most likely, your drill is not designed to work with it due to its low power.

Minimum drill shank diameter

Chucks according to the minimum clamping diameter are available in the following sizes:

0.5 mm size is available on chucks with a maximum clamping capacity of up to 6.5 mm;
0.8 mm - up to 10 mm;
1 mm - up to 6, 10 and 13 mm;
1.5 mm - up to 10 and 13 mm;
2 mm - up to 13 mm;
3 mm - up to 16 mm.

Here the user has a need that is the opposite of what was indicated in the previous section. That is, you have a chuck that clamps drills and nozzles with a shank, for example, by 2 mm, and you need to clamp the shank into it by 1 mm.

Again, the issue is resolved. The only thing is that it can be inconvenient to work with a large and heavy drill with a small diameter drill - it can be easily broken. Well, it is worth noting that sizes of 0.5 and 0.8 mm are also not easy to find.

The largest selection of drills at the lowest price with free shipping to your region

seat

It can be threaded or conical. Most modern models use a threaded connection. However, sometimes it also happens to be conical - mainly on drills with a cartridge for a maximum shank of 16 mm.

The thread may be metric, but in most cases on modern drills it is inch. Manufacturers always write directly on the cartridge what kind of thread it has, if, of course, it is threaded.

Inch threads come in the following sizes:

Threaded cartridge marked 1.5 - 13 mm - 1/2

The most common are 3/8 and 1/2. These two fits can be used on chucks with a maximum clamping shank of 10mm and 13mm. The 1/2 seat is rare, but can still be found on chucks up to 16mm. 1/4 is a landing on cartridges up to 6.5 mm, and 5/8 is again up to 16.

Metric thread is only M12. Suitable for clamping chucks up to 10, 13 and 16 mm.

The taper seat may be designated B12, B16 and B18. The numbers indicate the diameter in millimeters. They are used on cartridges with a clamp up to 10, 13 and 16 mm. And with the last diameter most often.

Cone chuck marked 3-13 mm B16

That's all I wanted to say about drill chuck sizes. I hope I helped you figure this all out. I end the article on this - until we meet again!

Thread under the cartridge - what is it?

tgr wrote.
3/8 is approximately (3/8/*2.54=0.9525cm),
1/2 is also about 1.27 cm.

On your digital caliper the dimensions are correct, but not in the post. In centimeters (as in other things and everything else) threads are not measured. Only in millimeters, tenths, hundredths. e.g. 9.525mm
Now to the point.

tgr wrote.
The first question - see photos 5 and 6: why does the G 3/8 die (and K 3/8) have such a diameter?

The G 3/8 die has not only a larger diameter, but also a pitch.
the thread for the cartridge has the following dimensions:
1/2″x20, where 1/2″ is the diameter in inches; 20 is the number of threads (threads) per inch of screw length.
Thread diameter in mm 12.7mm, pitch in mm 1.270mm
3/8″x24 Thread diameter in mm 9.525mm, pitch in mm 1.058mm
Thread G 3/8 pitch 19 threads. Thread diameter in mm 16.663mm, pitch in mm 1.337mm
Thread inch 3/8″ has a pitch of 16 threads Thread diameter in mm 9.525mm, pitch in mm 1.588mm

tgr wrote.
The second question is how (what die) to cut the so-called 3/8 thread on a new spindle?

Almost 100% guarantee that you will not find such a die. Inch dies are still found, but I have never seen inch dies with a fine pitch. Maybe you'll get lucky. Moreover, the thread on the spindle is never cut with a die, only with a cutter, unless of course you are interested in the rotation of the cartridge without beats.

How to remove a threaded chuck from a drill, how to mount cartridges

It is necessary to remove the cartridge from the electric drill to clean it or replace it. The dismantling process itself is simple, and the difficulties that sometimes arise can be solved. Our guide clearly shows how to properly remove the chuck from a drill with your own hands.

Methods for attaching cartridges

Hand drills use two types of fastening drill chuck:

Morse taper - the tapered shaft shank and the corresponding hole in the chuck.
Threaded fastening - a thread on the shaft, on which the cartridge is screwed like a nut.

Examine carefully the metal rod between the body and the cartridge. In the case of a threaded fit, open-end splines are usually visible, and the tapered shaft is always smooth.

The marking embossed on the cartridge also speaks about the method of fastening:

The Morse taper is abbreviated as B10, B12, etc. (B - cone, number - maximum size drill).
The marking of the threaded cartridge contains the designation of the type and diameter of the thread: M13 (metric by 13 mm) or UNF-1/2 (half-inch inch).

Removing the threaded cartridge

For drills with a reverse function, the drill chuck is additionally fixed with a locking screw, visible through the open jaws.

Threaded chuck lock screw.

The slots on the screw head can be cross-shaped, hexagonal or even "asterisk". Prepare the appropriate screwdriver, wrench or bit. Use a full spline tool that fits exactly the right size.

Loosen the cartridge locking screw.

Measure the turnkey space on the drill shaft. Most likely, it will be 14 mm for a medium-class instrument or 17 mm for a more powerful device.

We select the key to the cartridge.

Prepare a wrench with thin jaws. You can take a suitable one from a bicycle repair kit or grind off the edges of a regular wrench with sandpaper.

We are preparing a wrench.

While holding the drill shaft with a wrench, try to unscrew the screw clockwise (left-hand thread) with a screwdriver.

Try not to rip the slots.

If the thread "does not go", secure the drill chuck in a vise and hit the screw head several times with a hammer through the steel rod.

Now the thread will become more pliable and the screw will turn away.

Difficulties may arise. Try increasing the lever by holding a hex wrench in the chuck.

In extreme cases, use a vice, placing a drill in them as in the photo below.

Move the cartridge out of place by blows on the wrench, fixed through the square head.

With this method, it is possible to unscrew quite strongly stuck cartridges.

A threaded chuck removed from a drill.

After cleaning, install the chuck in reverse order, mindful of the different thread directions.

Before tightening the locking screw, put some paint on the threads.

The specifics of the cone mount

In modern hand-held electric drills, Morse taper is rare. Such models are equipped with special pullers, and the dismantling process is displayed in the technical description.

In old Soviet drills, the design of the gearbox made it possible to remove the cartridge in rather rough ways. It was possible to try to separate the conical surfaces with a wedge-shaped object, slightly knocking it out from different sides.

Another option - they took the drill with one hand with the cartridge down, and with the other they applied light blows to the butt with a hammer. If it didn’t help, they lubricated the landing site with a penetrating compound (kerosene or WD-40 grease), held it for several hours and tried to shoot down the cartridge again.

This method can be used if the shaft bearing is installed inside the housing. For most drills used today, this method is unacceptable, as it can damage the bearings or the gearbox.

When choosing a new cartridge, pay attention to the type of attachment, bore diameter and the ability to work in shock mode, if your drill has this option.

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Drill repair - how to remove and install a drill chuck

Even the most reliable branded power tool, such as an electric drill. puncher or screwdriver, not to mention the tool Chinese made, over time, depending on the intensity of operation, wears out and begins to hold drills, bits poorly, or jam the chuck.

Such a fate befell the cartridge of my electric drill, which has been serving faithfully for more than 12 years. The malfunction of the cartridge began to manifest itself with jamming, which is expressed in the difficulty of rotating the squeezing ring. In addition, water got inside the cartridge during the repair of the apartment, and a rust coating appeared in the guide grooves of the cartridge cams. The working surfaces of the cams are also worn out. Although the drill chuck was still working, it was extremely inconvenient to change drills. I decided to replace the cartridge with a new one, and then the question arose, how to remove it from the drill shaft?

Ways of fastening the drill chuck on the shaft
drills and screwdriver

In order to answer the question of how to remove the drill chuck, you need to understand existing ways mounting cartridges on the shafts of drills and screwdrivers.

There are two methods for attaching a chuck to a power tool. The first method was proposed back in 1864 by Stephen Morse using a cone. Morse, by the way, is also the inventor of the twist drill. The essence of the method lies in the mating of two surfaces in the form of a shaft and a part with a hole, having the same taper with an angle in the range from 1°25’43″ to 1°30’26″. In honor of the inventor, this method of fastening was called the Morse cone, which is shown in the photo below. The cone in the photo has a larger angle for clarity.

The Morse taper mounting method is widespread, as it is simple and reliable enough for loads along the axis, as in drills and screwdrivers. To fasten the drill chuck, it is enough to put it on the shaft with a Morse taper with a little effort. The cartridge is also removed simply, it is enough to strike its body along the axis in the direction of the drill installation site with a hammer. The ability to quickly install and remove the tool during operation is the main advantage of fastening with a Morse taper.

The second, more common at present for mounting a drill chuck on power tool shafts, is a threaded method.

At the end of the shaft coming out of the drill or screwdriver, a metric or inch thread is cut and the drill chuck, like a nut until it stops against the flange, is screwed onto this shaft. Since the thread is right-handed, and when performing work, the cartridge mainly rotates clockwise, it is constantly tightened and thus its reliable fastening to the tool is ensured.

How to find out how it is fixed
drill chuck on tool

An external examination of the power tool often fails to determine how the drill chuck is fixed. But if you know the marking of drill chucks, then the method of fastening will be determined even with a cursory glance at the chuck.

fastened with a Morse taper

In accordance with GOST 9953-82 “Tool cones shortened. Main dimensions. There are nine standard sizes of Morse tapers for fastening drill chucks: B7, B10, B12, B16, B18, B22, B24, B32 and B45. The larger the number after the letter B, the larger size cone.

Now you can easily determine the method of installing the drill chuck shown in the photo by the markings on it. Obviously, this cartridge is mounted using a Morse taper size B10. To remove this cartridge from the power tool shaft, you will need to knock it down with a hammer.

In the marking before B10, the numbers 1-6 are also applied. They indicate the range of drill shank diameters that the drill chuck can hold.

Drill chuck marking
fastened with thread

To fasten the drill chuck to the tool using a thread, both metric and inch threads are used. Cartridges of a domestic manufacturer, as a rule, are produced with metric threads, and cartridges of an imported manufacturer are always with an inch thread.

A drill chuck with fastening by means of a metric thread usually has the following marking on the body: 1.5-13 M12 × 1.25. The numbers 1.5-13, as you probably already guessed, mean the diameter of the shanks of drills or other tools that can be clamped in this chuck. The letter M indicates that the thread is metric, the numbers 12 and 1.25 indicate the diameter of the thread and the pitch of its thread, respectively. Currently, drilling chucks with fastening on metric threads are practically not found, except that such a chuck can be seen on an old Soviet-made hand drill.

Currently, the market is filled with power tools from a foreign manufacturer, and drill chucks on it, as a rule, are attached using an inch thread.

Drill chucks with inch threads are marked in the same way as chucks with metric threads. For example, 2-13 mm 1/2 -20 UNF, as in the photo. The numbers 2-13 indicate the range of clamped diameters of the drill shanks, 1/2 is the thread diameter in inches (for reference, one English inch is 2.54 cm), 20 indicates the number of threads per inch (thread pitch).

Having learned the rules for marking drill chucks, now you can easily determine the method of mounting it on the tool and you can choose the right technology cartridge replacement. The marking also allows you to purchase an interchangeable cartridge in case of wear or breakage on a drill or screwdriver.

Which clamping method
best drill chuck

In household drills and screwdrivers, one of the types is usually installed according to the method of clamping the working tool of the cartridges, this is with a key and quick-clamping. Key jaw chucks have been around for a long time and are well known to anyone. home master. Keyless chucks have only recently come into use and have quickly become very popular.

In the photo on the left you see a keyless chuck, and on the right - a key chuck with a key. There is an opinion that the key chuck clamps the drills better, but from many years of experience in operating both the key chuck and the keyless chuck, I dare to say that there is no difference. Both types of cartridges are clamped with equal success. Only the convenience and speed of changing drills in a drill with a keyless chuck is undeniable. No key is needed, which is always lost during work, if it is not fixed to the drill or tied to it on a rope, two hands must be used to clamp the drill.

The way the chuck is clamped is not related to the way it is attached to the drill shaft, so if you change the chuck with a key clamping method, I advise you to install a chuck with a quick-clamping method for fixing drills instead.

How to unscrew a chuck from a drill
screwed

As a rule, chucks fixed with a thread on the tool shaft are additionally fixed with a screw with a left-hand thread. Therefore, the removal of the drill chuck must begin by unscrewing this screw. In order to get to the screw, it is necessary to sink the chuck jaws as far as possible inwards, as shown in the photo.

On the bottom of the cartridge in the center, a screw head with a slot for a Phillips screwdriver or an asterisk should appear. To prevent the screw from unscrewing when drilling, it is installed with a left-hand thread. Therefore, it is necessary to unscrew the screw by turning the screwdriver clockwise. There may or may not be a screw. In this case, immediately proceed to the second step - unscrewing the cartridge from the tool shaft.

How to unscrew the chuck from the shaft of a drill or screwdriver

To remove the chuck from the tool, you need to fix the shaft and, grabbing the chuck by the body, unscrew it, turning it counterclockwise, when viewed from the side of the cams. The main thing is to rip the cartridge off dead center, then it usually unscrews easily.

I was lucky, because there were chamfers on the round base of the cartridge, for which it was good to hook on with a #19 open-end wrench. There were no such samples in the cartridge purchased for replacement.

After capturing the cartridge with an open-end wrench and one sharp blow on the key with a hammer, even without fixing the shaft, as in the photograph, the cartridge started to move. But it was tight, and there was a reason for that. I had to continue to twist it with light blows on the key with a hammer.

Looking inside the cartridge, I did not notice the fixing screw because the hole in the head for the asterisk bit was clogged with dirt, which only had to be removed. Therefore, when unscrewing the cartridge, I simultaneously tore off the thread of the fixing screw, it is strange that it did not break off.

If there are no chamfers on the base of the cartridge, then you need to clamp a hexagonal bar or an M10-12 bolt with a hexagonal head in its jaws, put a key on it and hit it with a hammer. If it is not possible to unscrew the cartridge in this way, then you will have to disassemble the drill, remove the shaft with the cartridge, clamp it in a vice and twist it. Instead of an open-end wrench, you can use a pipe wrench by grabbing the chuck by the outside of the body.

How to screw the chuck onto the shaft of a drill or screwdriver

It was not possible to find a new screw with a left-hand thread, because they are used only in exceptional cases. I tried to screw the vin into place in the shaft of the drill, it spun without problems and held, to my surprise, firmly.

For more convenient tightening and further loosening, I decided to cut a slot for a flat screwdriver in the screw head with a hacksaw. In order not to spoil the already spoiled thread, before clamping the screw in a vise, I wrapped the thread with a piece of leather.

The same type of drill keyless chuck was purchased in advance. Installing it on a drill was no problem. It is screwed on clockwise, like an ordinary nut on a bolt. It is enough to lightly screw the cartridge onto the thread of the shaft and, holding the cartridge lightly by the body, turn on the drill. When the cartridge is screwed up to the stop, release it and turn off the drill.

Next, you need to open the jaws of the cartridge and screw the fixing screw. Now the drill has been repaired and is ready to work again. Trial drilling showed that the drill began to work like new, the chuck is held firmly, the drill is easily and securely clamped in the chuck.

Quick release and keyed

Any master who has an electronic drill in his household may encounter such a situation that the cartridge of the drill starts to peel (the center disappears) and the drill walks from side to side, as a result of which normal work will not work. Or just the jaws of the chuck are worn out, which can happen over time.
In this case, the cartridge should be replaced with a new one. How to choose it right?

There are a number of types of drill cartridges. There is a thread, there is a cone, which are simply pushed on, not twisted. Let's look at them in more detail, so as not to make a mistake when choosing.

Threaded cartridge.

on thread

It is put on the drill by screwing it onto a threaded pin, which is placed on the drill.
There are two main types of threaded cartridge. They differ in thread types.
They are marked (1.5-13 M12 * 1.25) and (1.5-13 1/2 - 20 UNF)

Cartridge markings

The numbers 1.5-13 indicate the largest and smallest diameter of the drill shank that can be clamped into the chuck. Small 1.5mm, largest - 13mm, comes in and 13.5, personally inspected. On some cartridges, a small clamping diameter of 2mm.
M12 means that the bottom hole is 12mm.
1.25 or 1/2 - 20 UNF - these are different types of threads, 1st metric, 2nd inch.

Choose correctly, the cartridges are not interchangeable, if there is a marking on the M12 * 1.25 cartridge, then take one. If M12 * 1/2 - 20 UNF - then only that. If the inscription is erased, you will have to remove the cartridge from the drill, take it with you to the store.

How to take it off?
To do this, twist the cartridge counterclockwise. From time to time, the cartridge is additionally fastened with a screw, which is placed in it in the center,

Inside the chuck, the left screw

this screw has a left-hand thread, i.e. unscrews clockwise, and not as usual - counterclockwise. First unscrew the chuck (spread the jaws), later unscrew the screw with a regular #2 Phillips screwdriver. After that, you can twist the cartridge itself counterclockwise, its thread is standard. It happens that it is very difficult to do, because over time it is very, very long. For removal, you can use a pipe wrench to firmly grasp, for example, take number 2. You can use the help of a friend, one holds the neck of the drill with one key, the second one twists the cartridge itself with another key. Especially if the drill is ancient, it is difficult without an assistant.

Cartridge on a cone.

Cartridges on a cone, without thread

They are put on with the shackle of the usual impalement. There are also several varieties: B10, B12, B16, B18. If there is a letter "B" in the marking on the cartridge - know that it is on a cone, there is no thread from the bottom.
The number in the marking of the cartridge means the diameter of the hole from below. The larger it is, the larger the hole. In chucks B10, B12 you can clamp a drill with a maximum 13mm shank. And B16, B18 allow you to already clamp drills with a shank up to 16mm.
To remove such a cartridge should be knocked out with a drill, simply and uncomplicatedly with a hammer.
It is mounted on a special pin - a holder located on a drill.

There are cartridges with a key, there are quick-clamping ones (in the first photo).
The advantages of a frisky clamp include the fact that it is comfortable to quickly change drills, self-tapping nozzles. The disadvantages are that from time to time the drills can turn, especially if the shank is cylindrical (round), and not hexagonal, especially when the drill is of huge diameter for metal. The load is great, but you can’t tighten it with your hand, which can’t be said about the “classic” cartridges that are wrapped with a key. In my opinion, it is much more reliable. The only negative is that you can lose the key, for this it is reasonable to screw it onto the drill cable with electrical tape so that it is always in its place.

There are cartridges with a 1/4 inch hex shank that can clamp drills from 0.6 mm.

Among home craftsmen, two types of drill cartridges are most common - key (gear-crown) and quick-clamping (BZP). We will try to analyze the features of the operation of these particular cartridges in this article and comprehensively highlight all the main nuances and difficulties of working with them.

The most common for household drills and screwdrivers are gear-rim and quick-release chucks.

The main types of drill chucks

According to their design, they are divided into two main types:

gear-crown chuck, the clamping of the tool shank in which is carried out using a special key;
keyless drill chuck (BZP), in which the clamping sleeve is driven by its manual rotation.

Clamping jaw chucks, installed on modern drills, allow you to securely fix the tool, the shank diameter of which is in the range of 1–25 mm. Devices of this type practically devoid of shortcomings, the most significant of which is their rather high cost.

The most popular type of clamping device installed on modern drill models is the keyless chuck (BZP). It takes only a few seconds to lock the tool in the BZP category chuck, and there is no need to use a special key. The clamping of the tool shank is carried out by manually rotating the adjusting sleeve, on the outer surface of which a corrugation is applied, which facilitates this procedure. To regulate the mechanical impact created on the tool shank, a special locking device is provided in this type of clamp.

The most significant disadvantages of the BZP include the fact that in cases where the elements of its mechanism wear out, it does not securely fix the shanks of large-diameter drills. This causes the tool to rotate during operation.

Compared to clamping devices of the BZP category, gear chucks for equipping a drill provide reliable fixation of the tool in any situation. Users who often work with electric drills prefer this type of chuck. The only significant disadvantage of such devices is that the key with which they are powered is quite easy to lose. Meanwhile, the occurrence of such a problem can be easily avoided if, immediately after acquiring a drill, fix the key on the wire of the device with an insulating tape or a regular rope.

The mini-drill chuck mounted on compact drilling devices is also very popular. The latter are actively used by jewelers. The mini chuck belongs to the category of keyless chucks for a screwdriver or light drill. Such a small chuck, made mainly of brass, is used to hold tools with a shank diameter in the range of 0.1–4.5 mm.

The design and features of the gear-crown chuck

The classic drill chuck is a collet or cam type clamping device. They can clamp not only various tools with a round shank, but also cylindrical workpieces for their further processing. The main design elements of clamping jaw chucks are:

cylindrical body;
an adjusting ring or sleeve rotating on the outer surface of the housing;
a cam mechanism or collet mounted in the inside of the device body.

The design of the cam (gear-ring) chuck with a key

In turn, the collet mechanism, the elements of which are made of hardened steel, consists of three absolutely identical cams, which, when the adjusting ring or sleeve rotates, simultaneously approach each other, thereby ensuring a reliable clamping of the tool shank. In the early models of chucks for mechanical drills, the cams of the collet converged due to the rotation of the adjusting wheel, now an adjusting sleeve is used for this.

On one side, drill chucks are installed on the shaft of the equipment used, and on the other, a tool is inserted into them, with which processing will be performed. Clamping jaw chucks are mainly used to hold the following tools in them:

drills;
cutters;
taps with small diameter shanks.

How to remove a threaded chuck

The question of how to remove the cartridge from the drill, which is fixed on it with a threaded connection, arises among home craftsmen quite often. It is necessary to remove such a clamp, taking into account the fact that it is installed using a non-standard left-hand thread.

The threaded element of the clamping device is located in its inner part, so you must first expand the clamping jaws as much as possible, which will provide access to the fixing screw, which is unscrewed with a conventional Phillips screwdriver. In drills without such a screw, the chuck is simply twisted off their shaft without the above-described preparatory work.

The locking screw head can be Phillips, slotted, hex or even star

The screw with the left-hand thread, with which the threaded chuck is fixed to the drill, may wear out over time. To restore the reliability of such a connection, you can do the following:

insert a Phillips screwdriver into the head of the chuck screw on the drill;
with light blows of a hammer, deepen the screw into the threaded hole.

Such actions will not harm the fastening unit of the drill, but will allow you to fix the clamping device on it more accurately and reliably.

Replacing a threaded chuck with a drill can also be done using a 14 wrench, which greatly simplifies this process. In order not to make mistakes when you are about to disassemble a cartridge of this type, you can first get acquainted with the theoretical material on this topic and watch the corresponding video.

Replacing and disassembling a chuck on a drill

There is nothing complicated about how to replace a worn cartridge with a drill. To do this, it is enough to purchase the appropriate clamping device, remove the old one from the drill and install a new one on it. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that two types of cartridges can be installed on both a conventional and a mini-drill:

with conical connection;
threaded.

Cartridges, for which a thread is used for installation on a drill, are removed and fixed according to the above scheme. When replacing such a device, it is not enough to know that it is threaded, it is also important to take into account the marking, which in without fail applied to him. Such clamping chucks can be marked as follows:

1.5–13 M12x1.25;
1.5-13 1/2 - 20UNF.

The interval 1.5–13, present in the designation data, indicates the minimum and maximum diameters of the installed cutting tool. The rules for replacing a chuck with a drill suggest that the new clamping device must have a marking that is completely identical to the designation of the old one.

With the question of how to replace the cone chuck with drills, everything is somewhat simpler. Different markings can also be applied to devices of this type, namely:

To replace a cartridge of this type with a drill, you just need to select a clamping device with the appropriate marking and insert its seat into the conical hole of the drilling equipment. Navigating in such a marking is quite simple: the letter “B” means that this is a cone-type cartridge, and the number indicates the diameter of the lower part of the mounting hole.

Removing a cone-type chuck from a drill is just as easy as installing it. In order to perform this procedure, you simply need to knock the clamping device out of the drill hole, for which a conventional hammer is used. You can also get acquainted with the details of installing and removing the cone chuck of an electric drill by watching the corresponding video.

When choosing a cartridge for a puncher, the buyer must understand the design of such a fixture. This will immediately resolve questions about which tool in the kit can be used with a puncher and what types of processing to perform using such equipment. In addition, possession of information about the structure of the punch chuck allows you not only to independently replace the clamping device, but also to carry out its simple repair, if necessary.

How cartridges for perforating equipment are arranged

In order to effectively use various nozzles for a perforator, it is necessary to ensure their secure fixation. For this, a special cartridge is used. Its first models began to be developed back in the 30s of the last century, when rotary hammers appeared on the market, the mass production of which was mastered by the world famous Bosch company.

Such a manual device as a rotary hammer was almost immediately appreciated by consumers, since it can be used to combine drilling with pulse chiselling, which significantly increases the efficiency of the processing performed. The main drawback of the first models of perforators was due precisely to the fact that the cartridge was the weakest link in their design, which quickly became unusable under the influence of shock loads.

As a result of long-term development, manufacturers of rotary hammers and chucks have come to the following conclusion: the simpler the design of the clamping device, the more reliable it is in operation.

As a result, three main types of cartridges for rotary hammers were created, which in turn are divided into subtypes.

Gear-crowned (key)

There are cartridges in which the working nozzle is fixed with a special key that activates the cams that securely clamp the shank of the tool used. The most significant advantage of cartridges of this type is that they provide reliable fastening of the tool used in conjunction with a rotary hammer. Meanwhile, in order to replace the working tool in such a punch chuck, it will take much more time than when using other types of clamping devices.

Keyless (BZP)

The working nozzle of the perforator can also be fixed on it by means of a quick-clamping chuck (BZP), which is activated only by force, created by hands operator. Depending on the design, cartridges of this type can be single or double sleeve, the principles of operation of which also differ.

Single sleeve chucks are easier to use, but they can only be used in conjunction with drills that have the ability to automatically lock the working shaft. To actuate such a cartridge, the efforts of one hand are sufficient. In order to use a two-sleeve clamping device, it is necessary to hold its rear sleeve with one hand, and rotate the front one with the other.

What is SDS

SDS (SDS) is an abbreviation made up of the first letters of the words Steck, Dreh, Sitzt, which in German mean "insert, turn, fixed." It is on such a simple, but at the same time ingenious principle that the SDS cartridge developed by Bosch engineers in the 80s of the last century works. Today, 90% of all rotary hammers produced are equipped with these easy-to-use devices that provide high reliability of fixing the working tool.

SDS chucks are often referred to as keyless chucks, but should not be confused with devices in which clamping is provided by rotating sleeves. Unlike traditional keyless chucks, the SDS lock does not need to be rotated to secure the tool; it simply needs to be held by hand.

To understand the device of this type of puncher cartridge, as well as the principle of its operation, just look at the tool shank, which is designed to be fixed in such a device, or an SDS adapter. Such a shank has 4 grooves, two of which are open at the end of the shank, and the other two are closed. The open slots serve as guides, they ensure the correct position of the tool when it enters the chuck. Closed grooves, in turn, ensure the fixation of the shank in the punch chuck.

Inside the SDS cartridge there are special balls that perform two functions at the same time. At that moment, when the tool is just inserted into the punch, the balls along which the guide grooves move ensure its correct position. After the tool is inserted all the way, such balls fix it, for which it is necessary to turn it a little until the balls enter the closed grooves of the shank. To make using the SDS chuck even easier, it is recommended that the tool shank not only be thoroughly cleaned after each use, but also lubricated.

It should be borne in mind that due to the design features of the SDS chucks, the tool that is fixed in them is subject to a slight radial runout at idle, which does not in any way affect the accuracy of the machining performed. Meanwhile, the presence of a small backlash between the shank and the inner surface of the cartridge protects the latter from the impact that drills and drills are exposed to during the operation of the perforator.

Types and scopes of SDS-cartridges

Depending on the diameter of the shank, which is equipped with a tool or an adapter for fixing it on a rotary hammer, SDS chucks are divided into five main types: ordinary SDS chucks, models of the SDS-top, SDS-quick categories, as well as SDS-plus and SDS- max. The most popular are chucks of the SDS-plus category, which are designed to hold tools with a shank diameter of 10 mm. The shank of the tool, adapted to SDS-plus category fixing devices, enters them to a depth of 40 mm. In this case, the diameter of the working part of the tool, which is fixed in SDS-plus chucks, can be in the range of 4–26 mm.

The maximum tool length that can be clamped in SDS-plus chucks is 1 meter and the most common working diameters are in the range of 6-12 mm. Devices designed to fix SDS-plus shanks and corresponding adapters for rotary hammers in them are used to equip equipment of light and medium categories, the mass of which, excluding the weight of the tool, is from 3 to 5 kg. It is these perforators, which are designed for impact loads up to 5 J, that are most popular with home craftsmen and small repair teams.

SDS-max chucks with a bore diameter of 18 mm are used to equip heavy professional rotary hammers, the weight of which starts from 5 kg. Such rotary hammers, which can be used with tools with a working diameter of up to 6 mm, are able to create an impact load of up to 30 J. To ensure accurate and reliable fixation of the tool in such serious equipment, an additional guide groove is provided on SDS-max shanks .

Cartridges SDS-top and SDS-quick are intermediate options for equipping perforators and are used much less often than the models described above. Meanwhile, the design of SDS-quick devices, which were developed by Bosch engineers in 2008, is worth considering in more detail. The tool is inserted into the chucks of the SDS-quick series not by means of grooves, but by means of protrusions on the shank. The design features of the SDS-quick chucks allow them to hold tools with a hexagonal shank and a quarter-inch size.

How to disassemble and assemble the cartridge yourself

To perform Maintenance and do-it-yourself punch cartridge repair, it is important to properly remove and disassemble this device. Knowing how to disassemble a hammer drill chuck (or how to disassemble a drill chuck) will allow you to inspect, clean, and even make minor repairs on your own. internal elements, which will allow you to always keep your instrument in good technical condition. The simple design of SDS cartridges allows them to be removed and disassembled even by those people who do not get along with technology.

So, the disassembly of the classic SDS-chuck perforator is performed in the following sequence.

Step one

Remove the plastic part from the cartridge and remove the rubber seal.

step two

Using a screwdriver, remove the locking ring, and then the locking washer.

Step Three

When the fixing washer is removed, a second ring can be seen under it, which must also be removed with a screwdriver.

Step Four

After all the rings and washers have been removed, you can begin to disassemble the SDS mechanism, which consists of a washer, ball and spring. First of all, it is necessary to remove the ball from such a mechanism, then the washer, and only after that the spring.

A screwdriver is a hand-held electric or pneumatic tool that is designed to automatically loosen and screw in screws. In such a device, there must be an adjustment of the torque, and the screwing depth is also indicated.

Screwdriver can be screwed:

screws;
self-tapping screws;
screws;
dowels;
other fasteners.

In addition, with the help of a cam-type device or with the use of special drills with a hexagonal shank, it is possible to drill various holes.

As a rule, such tools do not work from the power supply, but from battery. The main advantage is mobility. However, there is a pneumatic type of device that operates either from a compressor or from a reservoir of compressed air or gas.

Screwdriver chucks

Using a screwdriver or a drill for work, for sure everyone, even a novice and inexperienced master, faced a problem when any spare part from the device failed.

The factory marking applied to it will help the average user to choose the necessary new spare part. When choosing, consider:

Max as well minimum size drill shank.
His type.
Type of connection - threaded or conical.

Of course, after a period of use, the marking can be erased. In this case, it is possible to determine the required type only visually. Ammo can be various kinds depends on their purpose. The most basic of them are quick-clamping, self-clamping, as well as with a hex shank.

Keyless chuck for screwdriver

This type of component is very convenient in operation due to the speed of its replacement. It can be installed very quickly and easily, without even using a special key or other tools.

By design, the quick-clamping type includes a corrugated metal sleeve and a locking spindle. The advantage of such a structure is that there is practically nothing to break here. However, along with the advantages, there are certain disadvantages. In the event that the part is used for a long time, the chuck does not clamp the drill firmly enough, and this can lead to turning round shank drills. In this option, the only way out is to buy a new one and replace it.

Self-tightening chuck for screwdriver

Self-clamping, like the quick-clamping model, has one main advantage - it does not need a familiar key to fasten it. However, if in the first described case everything is crimped with one's own hands, then in this case it is done automatically.

If the drill or other equipment is equipped with a blocker, then self-clamping ones with a single clutch are suitable for such models. But the blocker will play the role of the clutch.

In a situation where the tools are without a lock, two couplings must be used. In order to install the part, you need to hold half of the device with one hand, and twist it with the other. It is at this moment that the drill will be securely fixed, and the tool itself is completely ready for active use.

Self-clamping types are expedient and convenient when you have to often, and sometimes quickly, change various nozzles.

As a rule, their cases are made of plastic, but the base - the mechanism itself, as well as the cams - are made of durable steel.

Hex shank chuck for screwdriver

Models that have a hex shank are equipped with hex shaped holders. His standard sizes: 1/4 x 40 millimeters. With their help, you can securely and quickly fix drills and other accessories, as well as nozzles for a drill or screwdriver.

This type is usually made of steel. This allows the shank to be durable and not grind for a long time during active operation.

The speed of its use is justified by the fact that such parts do not require additional keys - the clamping of this cartridge, like the other two described above, is done manually.

Hexagons in the mini version are quite widely used. They are needed in most cases for mini drills or engraving machines. The small size of this device allows you to clearly and accurately perform all the finest work in radio engineering or in jewelry.

Bit chuck for screwdriver

Note! It is necessary to replace the cartridge even when the drill itself has just begun to drive from one side to the other.

The causes of breakdowns can be different:

Cam wear. As a result, there are difficulties in fixing the drill.
Tool falling and cracking in it.

For both of these reasons, a broken or failed part must be replaced.