How to treat a greenhouse against late blight. Phytophthora in a polycarbonate greenhouse: causes of appearance and methods of control. Cleaning the greenhouse from plant debris and additional materials

21.10.2016

In order for the harvest of vegetables and fruits in the greenhouse to be large, it is necessary not only to add all the necessary fertilizers to the soil, but also to fight pests. Sometimes the presence of a fungal infection is detected at the very beginning of its appearance, but in some cases, gardeners at some point realize that the greenhouse is truly attacked by late blight. In both cases, it is quite possible to overcome this infection, we will tell you how.

Preparing the greenhouse for processing

It is difficult to fight fungal diseases on plants, because they are very tenacious and remain in large quantities on the soil and on the surface of the greenhouse itself, and late blight is tightly attached to the grass. That is why processing a greenhouse is a rather long process, which gardeners divide into several stages. Each of these stages is important and if you exclude one of them, you will not get the desired result, that is, you will not get rid of the fungus. You need to immediately understand that you cannot leave a single microbe, since late blight multiplies very actively and within a week or two after improperly treating the greenhouse, you will again be upset when you find a fungus.

Stage one - preparatory

We start by freeing the greenhouse from various tools such as trellises, ropes, supports, etc., so that late blight cannot remain on them.

Now is the time to clear the area of ​​plant debris. When you uproot all the tops, you need to burn them, otherwise late blight will begin to multiply in the place where you throw away the uprooted roots. Just in case, we warn you that carrying everything across the yard is also bad option, because the fungus will be everywhere.

After this, we get rid of the weeds; they should suffer the same fate - a fire.

When the first stage is completed and the greenhouse is cleared of everything unnecessary, it is necessary to disinfect the soil, but this is the next stage.

Stage two - soil disinfection

This is done very simply; first you need to dig up the soil in the greenhouse. This way you will be able to bring to the surface those fungal pests that have already gone underground in preparation for winter. And when they find themselves outside, they themselves will die due to the low air temperature.

Now let's move on to disinfection. There are five main ways to clear late blight from soil:

• Formalin
  In order to apply this method, it is necessary to dig small grooves around the entire perimeter of the greenhouse, pour formaldehyde into it evenly, cover it with earth and close the room for two weeks. After this period, you need to thoroughly check the greenhouse; everything will take two to three weeks. There will then be a not very pleasant smell inside the room, which you can get rid of by digging up the ground again.
• Boiling water
  Everything is simple to the point of banality: pour boiling water over the ground and cover with film. The steam will kill most microbes in the soil. The disadvantage of this technique is that you will need a lot hot water and if you do not have the opportunity to heat it somewhere near the greenhouse, then this disinfection method is not suitable.
• Lime
  Another popular technique, the essence of which is that the ground must be sprinkled with dry lime powder. But this can only be done in the fall, since if you try to get rid of late blight in this way in the spring, before planting seedlings in the soil, the plants may die.
• Copper sulfate
  We will need: water and copper sulfate. We dilute 1 tbsp. l. means in a bucket of water and water the dug up soil with it. Such disinfection often should not be done, because copper sulfate gradually accumulates in the soil, then passes into plants and enters the human body along with the fruits.
• Ready mixes
  Flower shops offer a wide range of ready-made disinfectants; you can simply choose the right one and clean the soil with it.

Stage three - greenhouse treatment

First you need to wash the greenhouse well; this is done using ordinary soapy water. If desired, you can also add drugs to the soap solution that have a detrimental effect on the fungus. You need to wash it so that all parts, partitions, and windows are clean. The room needs to be treated not only inside, but also outside.

To avoid buying a greenhouse cleaner that kills fungus, you can use an infusion of mustard powder or garlic. Tobacco ash is also used for processing, but it is more difficult to obtain. Often, doing one of the listed procedures is enough to kill late blight, but if a major fungal infection occurs, then you need to use the following means to remove it:

• Bordeaux mixture/potassium permanganate/copper sulfate
  Now, with the help of them, we do not disinfect the soil, but treat the details of the greenhouse structure. First you need to make a solution based on one of these products, then pour it into a spray bottle and spray the entire greenhouse. Some people simply use a bottle with a hole in the cap for this purpose, but this method is less effective.
• Fitosporin
  We make a disinfectant solution with the proportions indicated in the instructions. Then, again, using a spray bottle, we treat the entire surface of the greenhouse. An important condition: this procedure can be carried out at temperatures above +10 degrees, otherwise you will not get the desired effect.
• Lime
  Lime is also used quite often to treat greenhouse structural elements. It is necessary to extinguish the lime and cover the greenhouse with it using a brush. It is very important that the limestone mortar gets into all the cracks and corners, please note this Special attention, because when you work with a spray bottle, the liquid definitely covers absolutely everything, but here it’s a different matter. After completing the procedure, you need to close the greenhouse for two days and not open it even once during this period. Then you need to pour boiling water over it entrance doors made of metal, and if they are wooden, wipe with a stiff brush. After all the procedures, it remains to ventilate the room for about two weeks, after which the limestone treatment is repeated again.
• Fumigation with sulfur
  This is done in the following way: cutting sulfur is crushed to a powder, combined with gold and laid out in metal containers. Then containers with this product must be placed throughout the greenhouse and set on fire. It is very important to take all precautions when performing this procedure, since sulfur smoke is hazardous to health.
• Fumigation with a sulfur bomb
  This is a simpler but more expensive option. So, you will need to place sulfur bombs around the entire perimeter of the greenhouse, then set them on fire and close the greenhouse for two weeks. This product is very powerful, so after two weeks you should for a long time ventilate the room and at first do not enter there without a special mask.

  Please pay attention to this point: if the greenhouse is located near your home, you should not fumigate with a sulfur or sulfur bomb, as this product emits toxic substances that will get into your home. Also keep in mind that sulfur has a negative effect on metal, so if the greenhouse has a metal frame, you should not use this treatment method if you do not want the greenhouse to become rusty.

Stage four - soil preparation

Those who have been gardening for a long time know that the soil in the greenhouse must be changed every 3-5 years, even if during all this time not a single disease was found in the greenhouse.

If the soil is infected with a fungal infection, it is necessary to remove a layer of soil 10 cm high and place it in a prepared ridge. Then you need to add lime to the soil. When summer comes, mix it all up, dig up the soil and after a year or two you can use it again in the greenhouse or garden.

All gardeners need to remember that you cannot fill the greenhouse with ordinary soil from the garden. Most often such land is full different bacteria and infections. Ideally, make the soil yourself. For this you will need:

• sawdust;
• sand;
• humus;
• wood ash.

Although you can buy ready-made soil in a store, it will be more expensive and you cannot always be sure of the quality.

When the greenhouse is already filled with soil, the soil should be treated; for this, use the same copper sulfate or potassium permanganate. Alternatively, you can spread mulch on the surface; it will also kill pests. Some gardeners cover the ground with straw, corn tops or spruce branches for the winter, and then carefully close the greenhouse.

It never hurts to learn a little new and worthwhile information about the business you are planning to do.

Many agronomists winter period The greenhouse doors are tightly closed, but the windows are left open. This is done so that the microbes that are in the soil die out due to frost. Known fact— at air temperatures below 15-20 degrees, absolutely all bacteria and infections that can harm plants die. Plus, with such winter ventilation it is possible to disinfect a deeper layer of the earth; in fact, this will be a natural disinfection of the greenhouse.

When it's time to prepare the greenhouse for winter, you need to consider some nuances:

• Remove film
  If you have a film greenhouse, the film must be removed for the winter. All frame elements should be wrapped in tarpaulin or other dense material, so that the parts will not deteriorate when exposed to cold and moisture.
• Put up supports
  It is impossible to predict what winter has in store; it is quite possible that there will be heavy snowfalls. That is why it is necessary to put supports for the greenhouse so that if something happens, the snow cannot break the structure. It is much easier to take care of this issue in the fall than to start repairs or even buy a new greenhouse in the spring.
• Special care for glass greenhouses
  If the greenhouse is made of glass, you need to worry about its integrity and again think about what will happen if a lot of snow gets on the roof of the structure. In most cases the best option— remove some of the glass to avoid damaging it.
• Leave open greenhouse polycarbonate
  It is best to overwinter a greenhouse made from this material with open windows. In this case, ice does not form on the material, which could ultimately destroy it.

In winter, you can and should lay snow on the greenhouse breasts, this way the soil will be well saturated with moisture.

Late blight- an insidious enemy of all nightshade crops, including tomatoes, peppers, potatoes and eggplants. This disease manifests itself in the form of dark brown spots covering the stems and fruits, from which the active process of rotting begins. All this cannot but cause concern for anyone. The cause is spores of fungal-like microorganisms. In a greenhouse or greenhouse, infection occurs especially quickly, therefore, if there is a reasonable fear that this enemy may break through under the constructed shelter, it is necessary to take preventive measures in advance.

Prevention is the main key to protecting crops planted in a greenhouse, since fighting late blight is extremely difficult task. The spores of this microorganism are very tenacious, so you cannot be sure that under the influence of frost they will be destroyed throughout the entire area of ​​the soil. For this reason, if there is a high probability of infection of greenhouse plants, which may be indicated by the outbreak of this disease on crops inside or outside the greenhouse structure last year, it is necessary to understand How to treat a greenhouse against late blight in the spring.

Late blight on tomatoes

What can be done in the spring to avoid late blight in greenhouse crops?

The greenhouse often creates the most optimal conditions for the development of late blight. The spores of this microorganism actively spread in warm conditions with high humidity. The reasons for these spores entering the greenhouse may be as follows:

• Unharvested remains of last year's affected crops.
• Drifting under the influence of wind from neighboring areas.
• Poorly processed work equipment.
• Infected seedlings.

As you can see, the reasons can be varied. Fortunately, the methods prevention of late blight are also varied, and among them there are very effective ones. So, what can you use to treat a greenhouse in the spring before and after planting seeds or seedlings?

Potato leaves affected by late blight

We destroy late blight in the greenhouse on the vine

Sulfur smoke bombs

They can be freely purchased in gardening departments, after which you should carefully read the instructions. Treating a greenhouse using this method will only be successful if it can be hermetically sealed. After smoke internal space it is necessary that the smoke cannot escape for several days. Then you need to carry out thorough ventilation.

Biological drugs

This type of product is actively used by experienced summer residents in last years, consists of microorganisms that eat late blight spores. Preparations belonging to this category (Fitosporin-M, Baikal EM, Siyanie) can be used to treat both the soil and all parts of the greenhouse structure. They do not cause any harm and do not accumulate in fruits.

Chemical substances

A great variety of chemicals that the current market can recommend can be very helpful in the fight against late blight. Their use in the spring is especially justified, as this increases the chances that by the time the fruits are fully ripened, the remnants of these hazardous substances will be completely neutralized.

What to do if late blight has already appeared on tomatoes?

When you see signs of late blight on plants planted in a greenhouse, you should not despair - you need to act. The following steps must be taken:

• All affected parts of plants should be immediately removed and burned. The same should be done with all old leaves, since they are the first to be affected by late blight.

• Among the gentle ones, the method of treating soil and plants with garlic infusion in the spring is especially actively used.
• This method is also practiced: on a very hot spring day, all external openings of the greenhouse are tightly closed for several hours, and then the room is well ventilated. The effect occurs due to the creation of a destructively high temperature for microorganism spores (above 30C).

To protect plants grown in a greenhouse from late blight, it is important to thoroughly treat the soil and structure (you already know how to treat a greenhouse against late blight in the spring), disinfect equipment and seedlings or seeds. You can use sulfur bombs, biological, chemical or folk remedies. And always remember that late blight develops in warm (25-30ᵒС) and wet conditions. Especially avoid excessive moisture accumulation.

• How to plant tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse.…

Late blight is dangerous because it is very difficult to get rid of. The fungus can easily overwinter even in an unheated greenhouse. Let's consider how and with what to treat a greenhouse against late blight in the fall in order to destroy fungal spores.

Preparing the greenhouse for processing

A feature of many fungal diseases is the ability to persist long time in the soil, on the structural parts of the greenhouse, in torn grass and tops. Therefore, greenhouse treatment includes several stages, excluding one of which it will not be possible to completely get rid of late blight.

All tools and equipment must be removed from the greenhouse and must be processed

The preparatory stage involves cleaning the greenhouse:

1. Remove all tools and auxiliary equipment from the greenhouse: pegs, ropes, strings for tying, trellises, supports, etc.
2. Uproot the tops and plant remains. If they have been infected with late blight, you will need to burn them to kill the spores. It is worth burning them in any case so that no pests or viruses remain in them.
3. Pull out all the weeds. Burn.

Advice! All tools and equipment need to be processed copper sulfate to destroy the fungal spores that are probably present on it.

After cleaning the greenhouse, it is necessary to disinfect the soil.

Soil disinfection

In the fall, the soil in the greenhouse needs to be dug up. This measure is necessary not only for preparing for spring planting. Digging reveals pest larvae that have buried themselves for the winter. Once on the surface, they will die on their own from low winter temperatures.

If you cannot replace greenhouse soil, then it must be disinfected

Advice! To get rid of pests and diseases, it is worth removing the top layer of soil (5 cm) from the greenhouse, where insects, larvae, microorganisms, viruses or fungal spores are usually stored.

You can disinfect the soil in a greenhouse in the fall using any of the following options:

• boiling water. Water the earth hot water and cover with film. Hot steam kills most microorganisms and bacteria;
• copper sulfate. Water the soil with copper sulfate (1 tbsp) dissolved in a bucket of water. It is not recommended to repeat the procedure often, since copper can linger in the ground and enter plants and fruits, and subsequently accumulate in the human body;

Don't forget to disinfect the soil better in autumn, and not in the spring before planting crops

• lime. Dry powder must be sprinkled on the soil. This procedure is allowed only in the fall, and in no case before planting seedlings in the spring;
• formalin. You will need to dig grooves, pour the substance into them, cover with a layer of earth and leave for 2 weeks. Afterwards, you need to ventilate the greenhouse well by opening all the windows for 2-3 weeks. Dig up the soil again to get rid of the smell;
• ready-made mixtures. Garden stores sell mixtures for autumn treatment of greenhouses; you can use one of them.

Greenhouse treatment

First of all, you need to wash the greenhouse. This can be done with ordinary soapy water. You can also add drugs that kill the fungus to the solution. It is necessary to wash all structural parts, windows and partitions. External processing is carried out similarly. Infusions of garlic, tobacco ash or mustard powder are often used. Sometimes such procedures are enough to kill the spores.

The walls of the greenhouse should also be thoroughly washed.

If the late blight infection was large-scale, you should use one of these methods:

Attention! It is worth carrying out fumigation if the greenhouse is removed from the house and living quarters, since sulfur emits dangerous gas with a strong unpleasant odor.

Sulfur has a negative effect on metal parts of the structure, so it should not be used in greenhouses whose frame is made of metal.

Soil preparation

The soil in the greenhouse must be replaced every 3-5 years, even if no diseases were observed in the greenhouse. And if infected with late blight, you can replace it completely: remove a 10 cm layer and place it in a prepared ridge. Sprinkle the soil with lime. In summer you need to mix or dig up this soil. After a year or two, it can be reused in a greenhouse or garden.

If you do not have the opportunity to replace the soil, then be sure to apply fertilizer for the winter.

Cannot be used for installation in a greenhouse ordinary land from the garden. It is also most likely infested or contains pests. It is better to prepare the soil yourself, add:

• humus, manure;
• sand, sawdust;
• wood ash.

After the soil has been brought into the greenhouse, it should be treated with copper sulfate or potassium permanganate. You can spread mulch on the surface. Sometimes straw, corn tops or fir branches, after which the greenhouse is carefully closed for the winter.

Some amateur agronomists leave the windows in the greenhouse open for the winter so that the remaining microorganisms can be affected by frost. At temperatures below -15-20°C, any bacteria, microorganisms, viruses and spores will die. The ground will also freeze a few centimeters and be similarly disinfected. Thus, nature will complete the disinfection of the greenhouse.

Greenhouse support

When preparing a greenhouse for winter, it is also worth remembering a few expert tips:

1. Put up supports. Winter may be snowy and snow accumulated on the roof can damage the structure. It is better to protect yourself from this than to repair or buy a greenhouse again in the spring.
2. If the greenhouse is film-based: remove the film. Structural elements can be wrapped with a tarpaulin or other material so that the frame does not collapse from humidity and exposure to low temperatures.
3. If the greenhouse is glass: it is necessary to take care of the integrity of the structure. Provide for the possibility of snow accumulation on the roof. It may be better to remove some of the glass so that it does not get damaged.
4. If the greenhouse is made of polycarbonate: leave the windows open. This will prevent ice from forming on the material.

In winter, you can bring snow into the greenhouse and spread it on the beds. This way the soil will be well saturated with moisture.

Autumn soil treatment in a greenhouse: video

Autumn work in the greenhouse: photo

Greenhouses and greenhouses have long enjoyed well-deserved respect among gardeners. Maintaining a microclimate favorable for growing plants in such structures is not difficult. IN Lately The popularity of such structures has increased even more thanks to the use of polycarbonate. With its excellent characteristics, this material transformed the greenhouse from a purely functional structure into the category of elements landscape design, which is not dismantled in warm time. However, with all its undeniable advantages in some situations, greenhouses turn into a breeding ground for various diseases, since they create favorable conditions not only for the development of plants, but also for the reproduction of various pathogens. One of them is the notorious late blight.

Determining whether plants are infected with late blight is quite simple. This disease mainly affects nightshade crops, so you should look for signs of its manifestation when examining tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, potatoes and physalis planted in a greenhouse. However, strawberries can also be attacked by the pest. Late blight begins with the appearance of dark gray-brown spots on the leaves of plants. At high humidity air on back side a fluffy coating forms on the leaf blades white. Then dark spots appear on the stems.

The affected leaves dry out, the flower stalks also dry out and the inflorescences turn black. The fruits of diseased plants are covered with brownish-brown spots that are hard to the touch, which grow over the surface and in depth, and then soften and begin to rot. On tubers of late blight-infected potatoes, grayish areas with wrinkled skin appear, under which, when cut, “tongues” of reddish pathogen-affected tissue can be seen extending deeper. It is not for nothing that late blight is also known as brown rot or potato rot. Tubers and ripening green fruits affected by it, which are normal at first glance, become inedible even after harvesting, and diseased plants often die. In the middle of the 19th century, an outbreak of this disease affected almost the entire potato crop in Ireland, causing famine and mass immigration in the country.

What causes late blight?

The causative agent of the disease is oomycetes, which have long been considered among fungi, and today are classified as a separate group of special mycelial organisms. Late blight spends most of its time in the form of spores and only when favorable conditions occur does it begin to actively reproduce. The most “favorite” combination of late blight is high humidity and air heated to +25 – +30 °C in a greenhouse often occurs. Under these conditions, spores can germinate and infect a plant in just an hour. A sharp fluctuation in temperature throughout the day, when a rather hot day is replaced by a cool night, causes heavy dew to fall and fog to form. This is a favorable period for late blight activity.

Unlike polycarbonate structures, greenhouses with film covering are more susceptible to disease outbreaks, since when temperature changes occur, abundant condensation forms on the inside of the film. Phytophthora spores are washed away when watered into the soil, where they can survive even very coldy. So the disease can appear in the greenhouse along with the soil. Spores persist for a long time in the remains of infected plants, so they must be removed outside the plant and burned. Even improperly processed equipment can become a carrier of the disease.. Spores are carried over long distances of tens of kilometers by the wind. So the pest can enter the greenhouse, which is located quite far from the source of the disease. Also, late blight can penetrate along with seedlings purchased on the market, since a visually excellent-looking plant does not guarantee that it is not a carrier of the disease in incubation period.

We treat plants

To date, there is no such remedy, the use of which would completely get rid of late blight. Since most life cycle Since it is in a state of dispute, it is not completely destroyed by either chemical or biological preparations. However, their use together with some other methods leads to a significant reduction in the number of spores and inhibition of pest activity. That is, the fight against late blight largely consists not in treating diseased plants, but in preventing infection. Since spores can be found almost everywhere, in the spring the greenhouse should be fumigated with special sulfur smoke bombs. Also, walls and ceilings can be treated with microbiological preparations such as Fitosporin-M, Siyanie or Baikal EM.

Unlike chemical fungicides, these products destroy pests due to the colonies of living microorganisms they contain, for which late blight spores are food. When it is detected in a greenhouse, it is necessary to combat the disease by removing and burning affected leaves and other parts of plants. After this, foliar spraying of all nightshade crops should be carried out with the mentioned microbiological preparations or fungicides containing copper: copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, Bordeaux mixture, Barrier, Oksikhom, Ordan and others. Regular preventive treatment of plants is also carried out with these substances. Seedlings should be thoroughly sprayed before planting in the greenhouse soil, and then done again after two weeks.

It should be remembered that after using chemicals, vegetables can be eaten no earlier than three weeks after the last spraying. Among folk remedies It is popular to treat nightshade plants planted in a greenhouse with garlic infusion, which is prepared by adding 40 grams of chopped garlic to a bucket of water and infusing for 24 hours. In this case, the plant is sprayed weekly. Since the development of the pest practically stops at air temperatures above +30 °C, you can fight it by periodically arranging a steam room, closing all doors and windows for several hours on a sunny day, and then ventilate the greenhouse well. Since excess moisture promotes the active proliferation of late blight, plants should be watered only at the root. But using underground irrigation or mulching the soil with polyethylene in a greenhouse is extremely undesirable.

Unlike open ground, in a greenhouse it is quite rare to avoid close proximity of plants when planting. This contributes to the rapid infection of all nightshade crops by late blight. Therefore, if, due to the size of the greenhouse, it is necessary to use thickened planting schemes, then it is necessary to form the plants into one stem. Since the disease most often affects old leaves, protective treatment consists of removing them during regular inspection of plantings.

A good way to protect plants from late blight is a nightshade crop rotation, in which they are planted in the same greenhouse in the spring at intervals of three to four years. Also quite effective method Infection can be avoided by growing hybrids that are especially resistant to infection or early ripening varieties, the harvest of which ripens before the period of pest activity begins. Seeds for planting in a greenhouse should be purchased from those manufacturers who carry out their pre-treatment against pests and diseases.

How to treat the soil

Since late blight in a greenhouse persists mainly in the soil, the main fight against it is carried out precisely on this “battlefield”. The main thing in this case is to choose a way to treat the soil in such a way as to most effectively suppress the source of infection, that is, destroy as many spores as possible.

A lack of copper salts in the soil contributes to the long-term preservation of pathogen spores, therefore, if infected plants are detected in the fall after harvesting, the top layer of soil about 5 centimeters thick is removed from the greenhouse, and in the spring the soil should be treated with a copper-containing fungicide or microbiological preparation.

Application to the soil chemical substances(Ordan, Oxychom, Bordeaux mixture, etc.), requires that you refrain from using vegetables for food for a month after their use, but you can treat the soil with microbiological preparations (Fitosporin-M, Mikosan, Siyanie, Baikal EM, etc.) Anytime. You should not use them only during the flowering period, when this can harm bees flying into the greenhouse for nectar.

Video “Processing greenhouses with your own hands”

If you want to know how and with what means you should treat greenhouses against late blight, then watch this video.

Preparations for the new planting season begin in the fall, after the current year's harvest. IN open ground Most of the tomato pathogens will be killed by winter frosts, but when closed, special treatment is required. In a greenhouse, especially one made of polycarbonate, the likelihood that late blight spores will persist in the surface layer of soil, on plant debris or structural elements is very high. Therefore, when growing tomatoes indoors autumn processing from late blight is prerequisite to obtain a quality harvest next season.

If there had been treatment in the spring, the problem would have been avoided in the summer

Processing methods

Disinfection of a polycarbonate greenhouse, which helps to destroy and subsequently prevent tomato late blight, can be carried out different ways. It is recommended to do the treatment annually in the fall after harvesting, but the choice of method and means for treatment depends on the preferences of the gardener and on the subject of treatment (land or structure).

Processing means can be divided into:

• chemical;
• biological;
• temperature.

The structural elements of the greenhouse can be easily processed using chemicals. Temperature and chemical methods, but we should not neglect biological ones, which should be classified as preventive.

Late blight dooms the future harvest

Means for processing structures

When processing structures, special attention must be paid to the joints of various elements, because it is in the cracks that the a large number of Phytophthora spores. In the fall, it is allowed to use fairly aggressive preparations in high concentrations, because before planting the tomatoes they will evaporate. But most greenhouse treatments require safety precautions.

1. Soap solution.

The simplest and safest remedy. It is impossible to defeat tomato late blight with this remedy alone, but it is necessary to thoroughly wash the greenhouse before treating it with more effective means. A soap solution helps remove dust and dirt, which will improve the interaction of a stronger drug with surfaces, which means the processing efficiency will be higher. For polycarbonate, such wet cleaning is practically the only option to maintain transparency.

Fumigation of greenhouses with sulfur is considered one of the most effective ways. You can simply sprinkle sulfur on pallets of burning coals, but it is much more convenient to use special fumigation sticks.

During combustion, a gas (sulfur dioxide) is formed, which penetrates even the narrowest cracks. But do not forget that the gas is just as harmful to humans as it is to late blight pathogens. Therefore, when fumigating with sulfur, it is necessary to leave the room and close it tightly immediately after igniting the substance. You cannot enter the greenhouse for 3 days. Also, processing should not be carried out near the house.

3. Copper sulfate.

Use a solution of 75–100 g per 10 liters of water, which is used to thoroughly treat all surfaces.

Everything must be done in a timely manner, especially processing the greenhouse!

4. Bleach.

This is the best option for greenhouses with a wooden frame. To prepare the solution, 400 g of lime are infused in 10 liters of water for 3–4 hours. The liquid is used to treat the surfaces of the greenhouse, and the sediment is used to coat the wooden frame. After treatment, it is recommended to close the greenhouse for 2 days.

5. Fungicidal preparations.

On sale you can find big choice drugs belonging to the class of systemic fungicides. They are actively used to protect plants, but in high concentrations they can also be used to disinfect greenhouses. Treatment can be carried out with the following preparations: “Acrobat-MC”, “Fitosporin-M”, “Profit Gold”.

Methods for soil disinfection

The ideal option is considered complete replacement soil in the greenhouse, or at least removing 10 cm of the top layer. Removing contaminated soil and filling it with new soil is very difficult and often impossible. It is much easier to cultivate the soil directly in the greenhouse in the fall, and simple affordable means are quite suitable for this.

Use of biological methods

Tomato pathogens can be combated with the help of beneficial microorganisms. Increasing their concentration in the soil contributes to its improvement. Microorganisms can be introduced by adding compost, manure or special preparations to the soil, for example, “Baikal EM” and “Shine”.

The results of the work are really encouraging

Such methods will help improve the soil health by restoring the natural balance of microorganisms, but when treating late blight they must be used in combination with other means.

Watering with drug solutions

Potassium permanganate solution is known as an excellent antiseptic. It is actively used not only in medicine and in everyday life, but also as a disinfectant in gardening. To destroy tomato pathogens, it is recommended to spill the soil with a pink solution of potassium permanganate after harvesting all plant debris.

For irrigation, you can use solutions of effective microorganisms, for example, Fitosporin-M. However maximum effect can only be achieved in well-moistened soil.

Temperature treatment

Severe frost or heat harmful to many microorganisms. Winter frosts are the best disinfectant. If possible, it is better to open the greenhouse for the winter, and open the windows and doors of polycarbonate structures. Freezing of structures and soil contributes to the destruction of a significant number of spores. After freezing, it is better to cover the ground with snow.

Sometimes watering with boiling water is used, followed by covering with film for deeper steaming, but this method is more appropriate to use for early spring treatment.

A competent approach is a guarantee of success!

When choosing a method to combat late blight in a polycarbonate greenhouse, you should not stop at one product. The best option is a combination of chemical, temperature and biological methods, because prevention is much simpler than treatment, and A complex approach has proven its effectiveness many times.